Halfway got my job apart. New transmission job turned into a new oil pump. Water pump. Rear main seal. Oil pan gasket and the transmission. Gotta love it lol. Thanks for the heads up
Thanks for the video. I just did this on a 2004 yukon denali, the ticking went away that I've been battling however my oil pressure didnt change- was ok before 25-30 psi hot idle 40-60 psi while driving. Ran everything from amsoil to mobile 1 to cleaners and atf through oil. This is what fixed my tick. The o-ring was misshapen but not as bad as yours. Good luck to anyone performing this.
@@tt7hvn I replaced that about 6 months ago. Oem part. I think my pump has 160k miles worth of wear and the pressure is what it is. I'm happy the tick is gone. Has stayed gone for 2500 miles so far.
Thank you I have 2005 Yukon and I changed my oil pressure sensor first but it didn’t work but I will try this now .. had a guy tell the truck was no good anymore
I have to do this to my '05 truck (4x4,) 4.8. I dread it. Getting old and lazy, I guess. Just have to do this in the driveway. I noticed two things about your work that shows you are not a beginner. #1, you broke the small bolts loose by hand, then used power tools. #2, starting bolts by hand.. It only takes one lesson of breaking small bolts off using a impact to break them loose. (transmission pan bolts, oil pan, valve cover, etc.) Power tools have their place and are a work/time saver but you have to know when and how to use them. I wish I knew where you live! I'd drop it off with a note late in the night. Thanks for the info! Very good advice on the RTV in the corners.
I’ve done this on a 5.3 and a 6.0 both 4 wheel drive. The 5.3 I did from the top while I was doing a top end rebuild/cam swap. The 6.0 I did from the bottom just like this video. 2 of the most annoying things about doing it from underneath is 1. You’re laying on your back lol and 2. Dropping the diff. Otherwise the pan removal/install is pretty straight forward along with the O ring replacement. Any time you have timing cover or oil pan off of your LS engine of ANY MILEAGE replace the darn O ring lol
Great video! Just a quick comment in relation to your technique mentioned at the 8:35 ish mark. You don't need to unplug the coils to crank the engine without starting...all you have to do is hold the gas pedal down while cranking and the engine will crank over but will not start. It's a built feature in most if not all GM vehicles.
We did this same process this past monday on my 2005 Denali. I bought the pump with the tube on 2020 and was constantly with the oil pressure low message. 2 mechanics told me the motor need to be repair because the damage caused by the low pressure. So I did my research and saw several videos explaining this problem and procedure, we did it and the problem was solved. Some things were not done that I consider they would be helpful at the momdnt: 1- the o ring was not lubricated 2- The coils were not disconnected to "charge" the pump. 3-the old o ring was replaced ith rhe new one that came installed on the new oli tube, but then saw that the pump came with two different o rings. The bad one was red and the new one is red, so I assume ghat is the same becsuse the other ones have different colors and the diameter is a little different. We use 10W 40 oil with no additive, for now. Other than that, is running like new with 207k miles. Took more than 5 hours to do this job. From estimates of near $4000 to $350. If someone need the pump with the pick up tube, just let me know. All you need is the o ring that came installed on the tube. Regards from Puerto Rico.
Helpful video, bro. Even if the o-ring isn't cracked as yours was, it's still wise to get it done while you're there. Your tip on disconnecting the coils to prevent a dry start was also helpful. I appreciate you taking the time to make the video for us. Will be doing this job on our '03 XL soon.
This is EXACTLY what is going on with my 2007 GMC Yukon. O-Ring needs to be replaced. Thank you so much for showing us how to do this repair. Saved me a fortune!
I just caught this video, and I know it's been awhile. If you still have that vehicle. You can easily run a half a quart to a full quart of transmission fluid in the engine as a normal course of action. The seals will love that. ATF has seal conditioner in it. A lot of it. It will also keep the inside of these engines quite clean. Another thing that you can use on that engine is the pf61 ACDelco oil filter is considerably longer with more filter material in it. And it fits perfectly on that engine. Any extra length version of that filter also fits on it. I've always been a fan of using the best oil filter you can find. If you can get a purolatorboss in the size that cross-references the to the pf61. I think the 3975 is the Fram equivalent, that's an extra cross-reference for you for the purolatorboss. Good video.
Also, don't stress the starter like that. You do not have to Prime the oil system. There is enough residual oil already in the system where to run long enough to build up oil pressure.
I ruined my 6.0 in my 2008 Suburban. We purchased a 2008 K2500 Suburban 6.0 in 2019 with only about 16k miles on it. We had several electrical problems. About October 2021, with only 42k miles on engine and the oil pressure turned off a couple of times but came back on if I hit a bump. I parked the car, spent weeks studying RUclips videos which stated it was oil sending unit or oil pump. I talked to several mechanics who insisted it wasn't the oil pump but not a single one knew about the O-ring issue. With the prior several electrical problems it made sense this was another electrical problem and engine was still getting oil. I drove the vehicle a few blocks prior to taking it to the dealer for repair and it shut down on me, I towed it home. I ruined the engine. My O-ring wore out due to age, not the miles. Pretty sad that GM designed an engine that something like that can happen. VERY DISSAPOINTING. That was our 3rd Suburban. We bought a 2015 Suburban and will be selling the 2008 as is soon.. It will cost $10k to have the engine pulled, rebuilt, and replaced. If it didn't have a history of being a lemon I would fix it.
Hate to say it, my 2006 LS 6.0 had a stuck dip stick. First methods: Locking pliers to rotate tube nothing, so locking pliers smash the tube 3" above hole and air hammer the pliers, breaks off flush. Second method: tap holes with M8 tap, with M8 bolt and nut and socket tried to jack it out, kept pulling threads so retried tapping 2x more times fails. Third method: remove oil pan, brass punch and hammer from the inside was bending the tubing, so inserted a M8 bolt into the hole to give the thin metal support, air hammered it out and it worked. It was legit air hammering for 3/4" of an inch. What a nightmare. This took more time than swapping out the exhaust manifold and removing 1 broken bolt where I brass brazed a nut onto it.
Great video bud! Appreciate it. Have to tackle this job on my sierra this weekend will be a pain in the ass alot of potty mouthing will happen. But has to be done. Thanks again!
@@mikew7561 They must be looking to replace it from the top. Its actually a pretty simple job, time consuming if you have a 4wd. Since you have to drop the front axel.
@@mrogersgmt800 Needles to say I was only Going that route because I don't have the time? Normally I do all my own repairs. So looks like I'm tackling it This Saturday anyway lol
Brother! just push the gas pedal all the way down and crank it, that's clear flood mode. Disconnecting the coils is not necessary and most likely just washing the oil off the cylinder walls with fuel.
worried this job might be above my pay grade, as so many videos I watched on it went something like this: Step (1)Disassemble engine, Step (2) Replace oil pan gasket, Step (3) Reassemble engine. All while standing upright underneath the truck which was conveniently located on a lift in an air conditioned garage. I knew I couldn't be the only one who planned to do it in somewhat more challenging conditions....my driveway with a couple jacks as my only helpers and your video playing on an iPad as I go....
That's how I do it...I just don't film it.... only my "driveway" is grass, well....a mud puddle. One jack, 2 jack stands on top of 12x12 concrete walkway pavers. I use the jack as a saftey to the jack stands and lay a piece of plywood down underneath to lay on and harbor freight puzzle mat pieces to extend that to awkward spots. I just finished mine at 1130 last night and the thing is sitting out there on the board and stands with no oil in it waiting on the rtv to cure while its pouring out cats and dogs. Least you have an actual driveway. It could be worse,.... you could be me. Fingers crossed this SOB don't leak on me later when I fill er up with oil and run it🤞🤞! Cuz some dumb ass took an impact gun to my oil cooler bolts and transmission to pan bolts and stripped one of each so I can't torque one of the transmission bolts to spec and the one oil cooler bolt feels like if I give it even another half of a quarter turn (1/8😂) its gonna let go.... so I'm leaving it alone and praying 🙏..... if it don't hold I'm into doing the whole job in the mud again and having to buy another entire oil pan because some idiot decided it was a good idea to ugga dugga steel fasteners into aluminum! So that'll be another full day and another $150+ depending on if I can reuse the oil pan gasket after getting it in contact with RTV. 🙄😮💨😤
Worked on a buddies '06 Chevy Suburban. Replaced the O-ring, and the oil pressure got low to the point the alarm would go off. Pulled the timing cover and replaced the oil pump along with the timing chain. Still had the oil pressure issue! I don't know what he did with it. I'm thinking it might have bad cam bearing(s) as it has a noisy lifter.
My first LS which happens to be an lq4 02' XL and that bitch is leaking pretty healthy when at temp and running. This is definitely in very near future. Thanks 👍
does the LQ4 oil pan have a pressure relief valve? ive replaced the oil pickup and O ring and pump just to have the same issue of low oil pressure at the sensor location checked with mechanical gauge. My pressure at the port just above the pump on the drivers side of the block has lots of oil pressure but at the oil filter i have low oil pressure.
On my 2012 Chevy Silverado 3500HD 6.0, it has a small access hole (approximately 4" x 10"). Can that access hole be used to undo the oil pump and change the o-ring without removing the oil pan? I will say it's not but I never seen and access hole on a pan before.
From what I've seen through research.... the o-ring doesn't need to be even cracked to cause oil pressure issues. I just finished mine last night and it wasn't cracked but it was flat-out all around. Waiting on the RTV to cure, so we'll see if that was the culprit when I fill her up and run her about 8pm tonight. 🤞🤞🤞 Guys is not a hard job.... it's just time consuming and a pain in the ass.
Looks like you used a wheel ramp to keep the front end up (not jackstands). Question : with the front wheels compressing the suspension, did you still have enough room to drop the front diff far enough? or did you have to revert to jackstands. thanks.
@@4LaneBlacktop Great to know your high mileage engine still running strong. Just bought my 05 Denali with 303k and gotta do the O ring. Great inspiring video to tackle it myself. Thanks ✊💯
Hey out of curiosity how did the engine sound when they brought it in or described the problem if you remember? Was it somewhat similar to a lifter tick but not as high pitched? Also do you still use the same recommended oil? Someone I know that “lives and breathes LS’s” and actually does a lot of work on nothing but LS’s said on these older ones you have to start using 20W-50 after 100K miles For context I have a 2002 Escalade with a 6.0 LQ9 (I think)
The engine was not really making noise, the oil pressure gauge was reading low. The repair was initially for a leaking pan gasket. As far a using a thicker oil with a engine with a bunch of mileage that should be fine. 20w 50 might be a bit much but 10w 30 should be ok.
I like your work and detail. Question? Had my valve cover,oil pan, and rear main seal replaced. Got it back with a knock , fluxuating , erratic oil gauge pressure . Any advice which way to aproach this?
Thank you. The oil pressure needs to be verified using a mechanical gauge or scan tool. If you do have a oil problem it could be from debris left in the oil pan possible clogging the pickup tube. Thats just a guess seeing you just had those things replaced.
I gotta do this to my 05 Hummer h2, it recently started reading at about 20-25 psi at an idle, before it was around 35-40 psi at an idle. Should be the same procedure right ?
Thank you for this video, this is really helpful. I have a question if you don’t mind, does low oil pressure that is being caused by the pickup tube O ring cause ticking noise just like if it is a bad lifter or a bad camshaft ?
Low oil pressure will cause ticking. The top end will be the first part to suffer as it is the furthest point away from the oil pump. On these ls engines, the cam bearings start to go first under low oil pressure.
4Lane Blacktop I’m sorry if I’m asking a lot I just don’t have much experience, my truck is 5.3 and has this ticking problem, how can I make sure that the problem is the pickup tube O-ring ? Are there any more symptoms? because when I took the car to the mechanic he told me it’s the camshaft and I should swap the engine or replace the camshaft, someone told me replacing the oil pickup tube o ring has fixed his car so I don’t know what to do now, I think the mechanic was trying to deceive me and take a lot of money😭. Please help me
Yes, do a oil flush, get K&W/CRC 5 minute engine flush or LiqiMoly engine flush, flush engine, drain, replace pickup tube o ring and pan gasket. It fixes 4.8-6.0, Id say it does so on LS1 as well.
Great job ladd, I have a question about that extra relief or bypass valve in the oil pan. I have had a long road on a 6.2l yukon xl. I did the sensor when I did lifters. I also changed the oil pump and O-ring without taking the pan. And I still have oil pressure drop to zero after about 10 mins of idling. So I hear this bypass valve goes bad. Did you inspect yours when you took pan down and I seen some guys replace it with a bolt. Just take it out all together. I have to attempt this job in the winter here in Jersey. It’s not a 4 wheel drive. The 1500. Do you have any thoughts on this POS bypass valve in the pan? Thanks for the video cheers 🍻 Kevin
Im not exactly familiar with the bypass issue you are having but I would think that the bypass is in the oil pump. You should probably hook up a manual oil pressure gauge and verify the actual oil pressure. Many things can cause low oil pressure and this o ring is just one of them. Excessive bearing clearance is also one too and with these gm ls based engines the cam bearings can be the cause also. Many things there to check.
Yes the bearings, definitely a possibility. But this bypass pressure valve I have found out that is inside the oil pan, goes bad, very similar to the blowoff in the oil pump, I didn’t even know about this. But Melling makes the part and a new designed part in addition that saves on oil consumption. On the oil pan it is located over by those two holes for the oil cooler. I replaced the oil pump, the O-ring on pickup tube, the oil pressure sensor and screen. If the truck is started from cold start, there is oil pressure of 40lbs. After 10 mins it goes to zero and alarm sounding. Shut it off and wait, start again oil pressure goes up. And repeat. So I am at a loss. I don’t want to take all this apart to look inside the oil pan but it seems like there is no other option. Idk what else could cause this. So give this oil pan internal relief valve a look and if you ever take a pan down replace that part. It feeds the VLOM on top. Cheers Kevin
@Kevin Fraser it would have to a a pretty good sized leak. Also, I have a buddy that owned a machine shop. He said that he only used oem gm oil pumps on the ls series engine because he had problems with aftermarket ones. I believe there is actually a shimming process for the oil pump also.
Wow, I think I used a Melling oil pump. Was a straight forward bolting application. I also changed the pick up tube O-ring from that point too. And added the second bolt even on the pickup tube flange. It’s about two years old, hard to believe the new pump went bad or the O ring again. I have oil around both sides of the oil pan. Even though bolts don’t feel loose at all. The oil cooler I think is leaking. I don’t see oil from a rear main seal. I’m drawing at straws. The corners of the oil pan leak traditionally, maybe the pick up tube is even picking up debris and blocking the tube after ten mins of warming up. Hard to explain the drop . If you look at your video of pop Pam down you will see that like 1/2 inch valve in corner. Ugh, thank you so much for answering 🍀
Did the oil cooler lines get in the way of the diff upper mounting bolt coming all the way out? Doing this exact thing on my 06 Denali 6.0, and I just need another couple mm of space but the metal part of the cooler lines are right there in the way and I can't budge it enough to get that bolt all the way out
I just bought a 2004 yukon denali and at idle I'm reading 25 psi and roughly 35-40 when driving. Is that normal oil pressure or do you believe the o ring may be bad?
Yes it’s exactly the same. I have the 6.2 and am in the middle of the super low oil pressure that collapsed the lifters. Did the lifters and after a week the oil pressure dropped to bell and siren ringing shut the engine down. I got the O-ring and oil pump off. My O ring 193,000 miles was flattened on sides. And a slight crack in it. Not a smoking gun yet. Maybe it’s the blow off valve sticking in the oil pump. Another typical issue. But when Autozone finally sends it to me I’ll replace and let you know if it fixes the problem. I still wonder why, does GM use just an O ring that fails, instead of using both bolt holes on the pick up tube with a two hole flange and flat gasket that seems to be a better way to ensure there’s not such a failure.
@@chifhaaji4518hey ladd, so this job worked. But down the road I feel that this Other Not well know Relief valve INSIDE the Oil Pan, is causing a drop in oil pressure. I did lifters. While doing so I changed sensor and screen filter under it, changed oil pump, that has a relief valve too. So all this is new. I also changed the O ring from front and added an additional bolt in the flange so it has two bolts now in O ring flange. So there is no other reason , maybe besides worn cam, that could cause Low oil pressure to actually sound alarm, than this relief valve in the pan. Does anyone have thoughts on this Relief/bypass valve in the pan? I have to attempt this now and might just close it off with a bolt. I’ll let you know how it goes. Cheers Kevin
Help...I had an orange oring on pickup tube. Autozone gave me a black oring . I installed it. My oil pressure isn't good. Did I put the wrong oring on? When cold at idle 40, when hot at idle 20. Is this a problem? Pressure didn't change after oring replacement.
There are different color orings depending on what pickup tube you have. You can google it. Also oring replacement is not a guarantee fix if you have other issues. Mileage, bearing wear, and oil pump condition all play factors too. Verify pressure with a scan tool if you can. In theory you want atleast 10psi for every 1000 rpms at operating temp.
@@4LaneBlacktop Thanks for your reply. This is my first build and I think Im trippin because have had so many delays and Im still assembling. I put my pickup tube in while the engine was upside down on the stand. Im going to hope I didn't pinch it but at least I found a video that shows me how to lower the front differential without completely removing it so I can get to my pan. I'll just keep my eye on that pressure for a while once I get it going again.
You probably have a restriction somewhere or oil viscosity is too high. Oil thins as it heats up and parts expand which is why oil pressure drops after warm up.
@@4LaneBlacktop oil pressure is low when starts have to give it gas to rev engine up to make pressure go up as It get warm oil pressure stays at a good pressure
@@garygriffith2398 you ever figure out the issue? I’m experiencing the same and plan to go ahead and refresh the oil pump, oil pickup o ring, and oil sending unit.
My 05 silverado 4.8 oil pressure gauge drops from around 35 down to almost zero for like 2 seconds the comes right back up. This is only when warming up and at idle. I'm thinking it could be the o-ring?
Halfway got my job apart. New transmission job turned into a new oil pump. Water pump. Rear main seal. Oil pan gasket and the transmission. Gotta love it lol. Thanks for the heads up
me exactly right now. but went in for a cracked flexplate
Thanks for the video. I just did this on a 2004 yukon denali, the ticking went away that I've been battling however my oil pressure didnt change- was ok before 25-30 psi hot idle 40-60 psi while driving. Ran everything from amsoil to mobile 1 to cleaners and atf through oil. This is what fixed my tick. The o-ring was misshapen but not as bad as yours. Good luck to anyone performing this.
At that point I'd suggest the oil pressure sending unit. They're known to have issues with time as well.
@@tt7hvn I replaced that about 6 months ago. Oem part. I think my pump has 160k miles worth of wear and the pressure is what it is. I'm happy the tick is gone. Has stayed gone for 2500 miles so far.
@@doubleya215 also, given that's it's an 04, those gauges are known to have issues in the stepper motors....
The pick up tube and O ring are must on these 5.3s with 200k on them. The infamous Chevy lifter tap is caused by the bad O ring. It will fix that
Thank you I have 2005 Yukon and I changed my oil pressure sensor first but it didn’t work but I will try this now .. had a guy tell the truck was no good anymore
I have to do this to my '05 truck (4x4,) 4.8. I dread it. Getting old and lazy, I guess. Just have to do this in the driveway. I noticed two things about your work that shows you are not a beginner. #1, you broke the small bolts loose by hand, then used power tools. #2, starting bolts by hand.. It only takes one lesson of breaking small bolts off using a impact to break them loose. (transmission pan bolts, oil pan, valve cover, etc.) Power tools have their place and are a work/time saver but you have to know when and how to use them. I wish I knew where you live! I'd drop it off with a note late in the night. Thanks for the info! Very good advice on the RTV in the corners.
I’ve done this on a 5.3 and a 6.0 both 4 wheel drive. The 5.3 I did from the top while I was doing a top end rebuild/cam swap. The 6.0 I did from the bottom just like this video. 2 of the most annoying things about doing it from underneath is 1. You’re laying on your back lol and 2. Dropping the diff. Otherwise the pan removal/install is pretty straight forward along with the O ring replacement. Any time you have timing cover or oil pan off of your LS engine of ANY MILEAGE replace the darn O ring lol
Great video! Just a quick comment in relation to your technique mentioned at the 8:35 ish mark. You don't need to unplug the coils to crank the engine without starting...all you have to do is hold the gas pedal down while cranking and the engine will crank over but will not start. It's a built feature in most if not all GM vehicles.
interesting
Yes lots of EFI bikes and cars have this feature as a flood mode and don’t splay fuel.
It’s also better to have the throttle open to spin
I just bought a 6.0 gmc and I’m glad you said some about O ring ,I’m gonna change mine out this weekend .
Just did it today,Oil pan gasket was leaking and replaced it while I was at it
We did this same process this past monday on my 2005 Denali. I bought the pump with the tube on 2020 and was constantly with the oil pressure low message.
2 mechanics told me the motor need to be repair because the damage caused by the low pressure. So I did my research and saw several videos explaining this problem and procedure, we did it and the problem was solved.
Some things were not done that I consider they would be helpful at the momdnt:
1- the o ring was not lubricated
2- The coils were not disconnected to "charge" the pump.
3-the old o ring was replaced ith rhe new one that came installed on the new oli tube, but then saw that the pump came with two different o rings. The bad one was red and the new one is red, so I assume ghat is the same becsuse the other ones have different colors and the diameter is a little different.
We use 10W 40 oil with no additive, for now.
Other than that, is running like new with 207k miles. Took more than 5 hours to do this job.
From estimates of near $4000 to $350.
If someone need the pump with the pick up tube, just let me know. All you need is the o ring that came installed on the tube.
Regards from Puerto Rico.
Helpful video, bro. Even if the o-ring isn't cracked as yours was, it's still wise to get it done while you're there. Your tip on disconnecting the coils to prevent a dry start was also helpful. I appreciate you taking the time to make the video for us. Will be doing this job on our '03 XL soon.
This is EXACTLY what is going on with my 2007 GMC Yukon. O-Ring needs to be replaced. Thank you so much for showing us how to do this repair. Saved me a fortune!
Holy shit mine hasn’t seen 40psi on the highway since I got it. Glad I ordered the parts
I just caught this video, and I know it's been awhile. If you still have that vehicle. You can easily run a half a quart to a full quart of transmission fluid in the engine as a normal course of action. The seals will love that. ATF has seal conditioner in it. A lot of it. It will also keep the inside of these engines quite clean. Another thing that you can use on that engine is the pf61 ACDelco oil filter is considerably longer with more filter material in it. And it fits perfectly on that engine. Any extra length version of that filter also fits on it. I've always been a fan of using the best oil filter you can find. If you can get a purolatorboss in the size that cross-references the to the pf61. I think the 3975 is the Fram equivalent, that's an extra cross-reference for you for the purolatorboss. Good video.
Also, don't stress the starter like that. You do not have to Prime the oil system. There is enough residual oil already in the system where to run long enough to build up oil pressure.
Thanks for sharing, saved a trip to the shop, and will keep money in my pocket. Love the videos, very knowledgeable.
I ruined my 6.0 in my 2008 Suburban. We purchased a 2008 K2500 Suburban 6.0 in 2019 with only about 16k miles on it. We had several electrical problems. About October 2021, with only 42k miles on engine and the oil pressure turned off a couple of times but came back on if I hit a bump. I parked the car, spent weeks studying RUclips videos which stated it was oil sending unit or oil pump. I talked to several mechanics who insisted it wasn't the oil pump but not a single one knew about the O-ring issue. With the prior several electrical problems it made sense this was another electrical problem and engine was still getting oil. I drove the vehicle a few blocks prior to taking it to the dealer for repair and it shut down on me, I towed it home. I ruined the engine. My O-ring wore out due to age, not the miles. Pretty sad that GM designed an engine that something like that can happen. VERY DISSAPOINTING. That was our 3rd Suburban. We bought a 2015 Suburban and will be selling the 2008 as is soon.. It will cost $10k to have the engine pulled, rebuilt, and replaced. If it didn't have a history of being a lemon I would fix it.
Im glad mine is still leveling at 40 or jus a lil 40 on sum days but this a good recommendation soon to do
In a nutshell, that is exactly what my problem was. O ring split just the same way in my 07 yukon denali with the 6.2.
FYI, if you hold accelerator pedal to the floor when you start it on a GM it will not inject fuel into the engine.
Hate to say it, my 2006 LS 6.0 had a stuck dip stick. First methods: Locking pliers to rotate tube nothing, so locking pliers smash the tube 3" above hole and air hammer the pliers, breaks off flush. Second method: tap holes with M8 tap, with M8 bolt and nut and socket tried to jack it out, kept pulling threads so retried tapping 2x more times fails. Third method: remove oil pan, brass punch and hammer from the inside was bending the tubing, so inserted a M8 bolt into the hole to give the thin metal support, air hammered it out and it worked. It was legit air hammering for 3/4" of an inch. What a nightmare. This took more time than swapping out the exhaust manifold and removing 1 broken bolt where I brass brazed a nut onto it.
Great video bud! Appreciate it. Have to tackle this job on my sierra this weekend will be a pain in the ass alot of potty mouthing will happen. But has to be done. Thanks again!
I'm doing mine this weekend as well. Garage wants 1300 to do it? Saying the timing cover needs to come off! 🤦♂️Smh
@@mikew7561 They must be looking to replace it from the top. Its actually a pretty simple job, time consuming if you have a 4wd. Since you have to drop the front axel.
@@mrogersgmt800 I get that You can replace JUST the O ring from the top!. But I was having them quote the Pick up tube as well.
@@mrogersgmt800 Needles to say I was only Going that route because I don't have the time? Normally I do all my own repairs. So looks like I'm tackling it This Saturday anyway lol
@@mikew7561 Same here if I remember correctly I was quoted $700 for the job, needless to say tackled it myself. Fun stuff!
Might have to think about this on my 6.0. The pressure is not as high as it was. Thanks for sharing that
Yeah its a very common problem. Fix it before it eats your cam bearings.
Brother! just push the gas pedal all the way down and crank it, that's clear flood mode. Disconnecting the coils is not necessary and most likely just washing the oil off the cylinder walls with fuel.
thanks, I see a leak! good info about the O ring.
Good video. One thing, there is a torque sequence for that oil pan with specs that should be followed.
I did follow the sequence and always do when doing these type of things.
The pickup tube itself has 2 nuts on the windage tray which is 13 mil and one 10 mm bolt at the pump.
Fill the filter full of oil then start.
Is the torque specs for pick up tube around 18ft lbs
worried this job might be above my pay grade, as so many videos I watched on it went something like this: Step (1)Disassemble engine, Step (2) Replace oil pan gasket, Step (3) Reassemble engine. All while standing upright underneath the truck which was conveniently located on a lift in an air conditioned garage. I knew I couldn't be the only one who planned to do it in somewhat more challenging conditions....my driveway with a couple jacks as my only helpers and your video playing on an iPad as I go....
How was it?
That's how I do it...I just don't film it.... only my "driveway" is grass, well....a mud puddle. One jack, 2 jack stands on top of 12x12 concrete walkway pavers. I use the jack as a saftey to the jack stands and lay a piece of plywood down underneath to lay on and harbor freight puzzle mat pieces to extend that to awkward spots. I just finished mine at 1130 last night and the thing is sitting out there on the board and stands with no oil in it waiting on the rtv to cure while its pouring out cats and dogs. Least you have an actual driveway. It could be worse,.... you could be me.
Fingers crossed this SOB don't leak on me later when I fill er up with oil and run it🤞🤞! Cuz some dumb ass took an impact gun to my oil cooler bolts and transmission to pan bolts and stripped one of each so I can't torque one of the transmission bolts to spec and the one oil cooler bolt feels like if I give it even another half of a quarter turn (1/8😂) its gonna let go.... so I'm leaving it alone and praying 🙏..... if it don't hold I'm into doing the whole job in the mud again and having to buy another entire oil pan because some idiot decided it was a good idea to ugga dugga steel fasteners into aluminum! So that'll be another full day and another $150+ depending on if I can reuse the oil pan gasket after getting it in contact with RTV. 🙄😮💨😤
Thank you for Educating Sir. God bless!
Worked on a buddies '06 Chevy Suburban. Replaced the O-ring, and the oil pressure got low to the point the alarm would go off.
Pulled the timing cover and replaced the oil pump along with the timing chain. Still had the oil pressure issue! I don't know what he did with it.
I'm thinking it might have bad cam bearing(s) as it has a noisy lifter.
Probably is the cam bearings.
ruclips.net/video/pfKS49NhZbI/видео.html
Great vid ,,What was your oil pressure before you changed out the O ring ?
There should be a clip in the video showing the before pressure briefly
My first LS which happens to be an lq4 02' XL and that bitch is leaking pretty healthy when at temp and running. This is definitely in very near future. Thanks 👍
NICE JOB MATE
NO B.S. , BASIC TOOLS AND RIGHT TO THE POINT,.THANK-YOU
does the LQ4 oil pan have a pressure relief valve? ive replaced the oil pickup and O ring and pump just to have the same issue of low oil pressure at the sensor location checked with mechanical gauge. My pressure at the port just above the pump on the drivers side of the block has lots of oil pressure but at the oil filter i have low oil pressure.
I dont believe so. You could have a blocked passage in the oil pan there by the filter since oil passes thru it.
Yeah ok but that truck rust free try that here in the great northeast
Very informative video but instead of going through all the hustle of disconnecting all those wires just remove the fuel pump fuse it's easier 👍
On my 2012 Chevy Silverado 3500HD 6.0, it has a small access hole (approximately 4" x 10"). Can that access hole be used to undo the oil pump and change the o-ring without removing the oil pan? I will say it's not but I never seen and access hole on a pan before.
Im going to say probably not
I see 391k miles on the Yukon when you did this gasket and o-ring replacement. Do you know if that was the first time it needed that o-ring?
Not sure but it probably was the first time when I done it.
From what I've seen through research.... the o-ring doesn't need to be even cracked to cause oil pressure issues. I just finished mine last night and it wasn't cracked but it was flat-out all around. Waiting on the RTV to cure, so we'll see if that was the culprit when I fill her up and run her about 8pm tonight. 🤞🤞🤞 Guys is not a hard job.... it's just time consuming and a pain in the ass.
Nice concise and complete tutorial.
You doing very good job 👍👍👍
Nice video 👌👌👌👌👌
Very good teaching you good teacher
Thank you! 😃
To build oil pressure without starting hold down the gas pedal while cranking.
how do we unclip the cooling lines and wiring by the oil pan? I felt around and couldn't get it to budge
Looks like you used a wheel ramp to keep the front end up (not jackstands). Question : with the front wheels compressing the suspension, did you still have enough room to drop the front diff far enough? or did you have to revert to jackstands. thanks.
Yes I did use ramps. It stayed on the ramps the whole time. Plenty of room to get the diff down enough to remove the pan.
@@4LaneBlacktop Thank you. Until i can sneak a lift in my garage without my wife noticeing, would much rather use ramps than jacks!
Just pulled a transmission and oil pan with the same ramps. Plenty of room for everything
Mine is 0 pressure at startup a little better after warming up. I was going to replace the oil pump also. Do you think the O-ring is all I need?
Does this yukon have 391k miles if so amazing 👏
Yes. Lots of highway miles
@@4LaneBlacktop Great to know your high mileage engine still running strong. Just bought my 05 Denali with 303k and gotta do the O ring. Great inspiring video to tackle it myself. Thanks ✊💯
Hey out of curiosity how did the engine sound when they brought it in or described the problem if you remember? Was it somewhat similar to a lifter tick but not as high pitched?
Also do you still use the same recommended oil? Someone I know that “lives and breathes LS’s” and actually does a lot of work on nothing but LS’s said on these older ones you have to start using 20W-50 after 100K miles
For context I have a 2002 Escalade with a 6.0 LQ9 (I think)
The engine was not really making noise, the oil pressure gauge was reading low. The repair was initially for a leaking pan gasket. As far a using a thicker oil with a engine with a bunch of mileage that should be fine. 20w 50 might be a bit much but 10w 30 should be ok.
Nice job! TY ...Newk from Kentucky
Thank you
Also from ky but in Louisville. Thanks for the video i need to do my denali thanks for the video this will help
Good information , thanks for sharing your knowledge .
Your welcome. Glad it has helped.
I like your work and detail. Question? Had my valve cover,oil pan, and rear main seal replaced. Got it back with a knock , fluxuating , erratic oil gauge pressure . Any advice which way to aproach this?
Thank you. The oil pressure needs to be verified using a mechanical gauge or scan tool. If you do have a oil problem it could be from debris left in the oil pan possible clogging the pickup tube. Thats just a guess seeing you just had those things replaced.
@@4LaneBlacktop Troubleshooting is starting simple and looking where people have been working
@@allanbrogdon5317 Very good advice, Allan.
Wonder if this procedure is the same on the 5.3l V8 2wd no front trans case
It should be the same
I gotta do this to my 05 Hummer h2, it recently started reading at about 20-25 psi at an idle, before it was around 35-40 psi at an idle. Should be the same procedure right ?
Should be. There might be a few more or less steps getting to the oil pan but otherwise its the same.
Thank you for this video, this is really helpful. I have a question if you don’t mind, does low oil pressure that is being caused by the pickup tube O ring cause ticking noise just like if it is a bad lifter or a bad camshaft ?
Low oil pressure will cause ticking. The top end will be the first part to suffer as it is the furthest point away from the oil pump. On these ls engines, the cam bearings start to go first under low oil pressure.
4Lane Blacktop I’m sorry if I’m asking a lot I just don’t have much experience, my truck is 5.3 and has this ticking problem, how can I make sure that the problem is the pickup tube O-ring ? Are there any more symptoms? because when I took the car to the mechanic he told me it’s the camshaft and I should swap the engine or replace the camshaft, someone told me replacing the oil pickup tube o ring has fixed his car so I don’t know what to do now, I think the mechanic was trying to deceive me and take a lot of money😭. Please help me
Yes, do a oil flush, get K&W/CRC 5 minute engine flush or LiqiMoly engine flush, flush engine, drain, replace pickup tube o ring and pan gasket.
It fixes 4.8-6.0, Id say it does so on LS1 as well.
Yep, the lifters in my 5.3 were ticking badly for probably 20,000 miles, I finally decided to do the o-ring and they are quite once again
@@saifalkaabi9121 did you ever change the o ring and did it help it
Ordered part number 72401 but o ring is black does it matter or are they exactly the same?
There are different colors but from what I understand there are 2 sizes. Just make sure you use the right sized one.
What do you consider low for 6.0
I would say under 20 at cold idle
Do you know will this be a similar process for the 2002 xl denali model?
It should be exactly the same.
Great job ladd, I have a question about that extra relief or bypass valve in the oil pan. I have had a long road on a 6.2l yukon xl. I did the sensor when I did lifters. I also changed the oil pump and O-ring without taking the pan. And I still have oil pressure drop to zero after about 10 mins of idling. So I hear this bypass valve goes bad. Did you inspect yours when you took pan down and I seen some guys replace it with a bolt. Just take it out all together. I have to attempt this job in the winter here in Jersey. It’s not a 4 wheel drive. The 1500. Do you have any thoughts on this POS bypass valve in the pan? Thanks for the video cheers 🍻 Kevin
Im not exactly familiar with the bypass issue you are having but I would think that the bypass is in the oil pump. You should probably hook up a manual oil pressure gauge and verify the actual oil pressure. Many things can cause low oil pressure and this o ring is just one of them. Excessive bearing clearance is also one too and with these gm ls based engines the cam bearings can be the cause also. Many things there to check.
Yes the bearings, definitely a possibility. But this bypass pressure valve I have found out that is inside the oil pan, goes bad, very similar to the blowoff in the oil pump, I didn’t even know about this. But Melling makes the part and a new designed part in addition that saves on oil consumption. On the oil pan it is located over by those two holes for the oil cooler. I replaced the oil pump, the O-ring on pickup tube, the oil pressure sensor and screen. If the truck is started from cold start, there is oil pressure of 40lbs. After 10 mins it goes to zero and alarm sounding. Shut it off and wait, start again oil pressure goes up. And repeat. So I am at a loss. I don’t want to take all this apart to look inside the oil pan but it seems like there is no other option. Idk what else could cause this. So give this oil pan internal relief valve a look and if you ever take a pan down replace that part. It feeds the VLOM on top. Cheers Kevin
Do you think a leak in oil cooler lines could cause oil pressure to drop to that dangerous level? Thanks Kevin
@Kevin Fraser it would have to a a pretty good sized leak. Also, I have a buddy that owned a machine shop. He said that he only used oem gm oil pumps on the ls series engine because he had problems with aftermarket ones. I believe there is actually a shimming process for the oil pump also.
Wow, I think I used a Melling oil pump. Was a straight forward bolting application. I also changed the pick up tube O-ring from that point too. And added the second bolt even on the pickup tube flange. It’s about two years old, hard to believe the new pump went bad or the O ring again. I have oil around both sides of the oil pan. Even though bolts don’t feel loose at all. The oil cooler I think is leaking. I don’t see oil from a rear main seal. I’m drawing at straws. The corners of the oil pan leak traditionally, maybe the pick up tube is even picking up debris and blocking the tube after ten mins of warming up. Hard to explain the drop . If you look at your video of pop Pam down you will see that like 1/2 inch valve in corner. Ugh, thank you so much for answering 🍀
What was your oil pressure at before you did this? Mine used to be around 65ish, now it's around 40...
hey boss followed all the steps but i still dont have enough room to get oil pan out
Great video 👍quick question. How did you clean the oil pan? With water or how??
Purple power and water.
Did the oil cooler lines get in the way of the diff upper mounting bolt coming all the way out? Doing this exact thing on my 06 Denali 6.0, and I just need another couple mm of space but the metal part of the cooler lines are right there in the way and I can't budge it enough to get that bolt all the way out
How did yours go.? I have an 06 as well & it seems there's more that'll need to be removed than earlier models.
How many hours did this job take? Thumbs up
Expect it to take around 2 or 3 hours.
I just bought a 2004 yukon denali and at idle I'm reading 25 psi and roughly 35-40 when driving. Is that normal oil pressure or do you believe the o ring may be bad?
I learned with your video thanks a lot. And keep it up. Godbless
Thank you. Glad I could help.
What's the torque spec for the front diff bolts ?
Is this about the same amount of work for the 6.2l Denali? Does the oil pickup tube have the same problem on the 6.2? Thanks for the video
Should be about the same. From what I understand is most LS series engine have this problem with age and mileage.
4Lane Blacktop thanks for the quick reply👍🏻
Yes it’s exactly the same. I have the 6.2 and am in the middle of the super low oil pressure that collapsed the lifters. Did the lifters and after a week the oil pressure dropped to bell and siren ringing shut the engine down. I got the O-ring and oil pump off. My O ring 193,000 miles was flattened on sides. And a slight crack in it. Not a smoking gun yet. Maybe it’s the blow off valve sticking in the oil pump. Another typical issue. But when Autozone finally sends it to me I’ll replace and let you know if it fixes the problem. I still wonder why, does GM use just an O ring that fails, instead of using both bolt holes on the pick up tube with a two hole flange and flat gasket that seems to be a better way to ensure there’s not such a failure.
@@kevinfraser640 what happened
@@chifhaaji4518hey ladd, so this job worked. But down the road I feel that this Other Not well know Relief valve INSIDE the Oil Pan, is causing a drop in oil pressure. I did lifters. While doing so I changed sensor and screen filter under it, changed oil pump, that has a relief valve too. So all this is new. I also changed the O ring from front and added an additional bolt in the flange so it has two bolts now in O ring flange. So there is no other reason , maybe besides worn cam, that could cause Low oil pressure to actually sound alarm, than this relief valve in the pan. Does anyone have thoughts on this Relief/bypass valve in the pan? I have to attempt this now and might just close it off with a bolt. I’ll let you know how it goes. Cheers Kevin
Hey there. By chance do you have that part number? Thank.
Help...I had an orange oring on pickup tube. Autozone gave me a black oring . I installed it. My oil pressure isn't good. Did I put the wrong oring on? When cold at idle 40, when hot at idle 20. Is this a problem? Pressure didn't change after oring replacement.
There are different color orings depending on what pickup tube you have. You can google it. Also oring replacement is not a guarantee fix if you have other issues. Mileage, bearing wear, and oil pump condition all play factors too. Verify pressure with a scan tool if you can. In theory you want atleast 10psi for every 1000 rpms at operating temp.
I forgot to put lube on my new oring does that mean I have to drop this pan again?
Not necessarily but not lubing it up can cause the oring to get damaged when reinstalling the pickup tube.
@@4LaneBlacktop Thanks for your reply. This is my first build and I think Im trippin because have had so many delays and Im still assembling. I put my pickup tube in while the engine was upside down on the stand. Im going to hope I didn't pinch it but at least I found a video that shows me how to lower the front differential without completely removing it so I can get to my pan. I'll just keep my eye on that pressure for a while once I get it going again.
Are there torque specs for the 3 bolts on the pickup tube
Yes there are torque specs. I do not know them off the top of my head.
I found them thx
great detailed vid bud.
Thank you
Awesome video, thanks!
Great job Good video man👍
Appreciate it
Do you have to drop the steering rack?
Great video by the way 👏 👍 👌 🙌
There is no steering rack on this model. It has a box on the frame rail.
If you have rack and pinion, yes loosen both sides and pull the bolt on the passenger side so the pan has enough room to pass the pickup tube.
Nice video! Good job, and helpful as I tackle this project on my Yukon. Thanks!
Thank you. Glad it was helpful.
@@4LaneBlacktop combien de pression d'huile avez-vous avant de changer le joint toriques ?
Well done
Thank you!!!!
I have a 04 2500 silverado 6inch lift will is be easier cuz of the lift?
It should be easier to get underneath
Thank you!
I got a built turbo 4.8 runs between 20-40 psi. Is that normal? Thinking my pickup ring is bad too
At idle and with the engine at operating condition that should be normal.
Good video that help
Disconnect the fuel pump relay much easier and faster
How long did the job take start to finish?
You can do it in a couple hours.
Good video!
Thanks
So I loose oil pressure until car warms up then oil pressure is good is this the problem?
You probably have a restriction somewhere or oil viscosity is too high. Oil thins as it heats up and parts expand which is why oil pressure drops after warm up.
@@4LaneBlacktop oil pressure is low when starts have to give it gas to rev engine up to make pressure go up as It get warm oil pressure stays at a good pressure
@@garygriffith2398 you ever figure out the issue? I’m experiencing the same and plan to go ahead and refresh the oil pump, oil pickup o ring, and oil sending unit.
Encouraging video, thank you!
Were you loosing power while driving or hesitation?
No but the oil pressure gauge was reading low.
Casual bentley sitting next to it...
My 05 silverado 4.8 oil pressure gauge drops from around 35 down to almost zero for like 2 seconds the comes right back up. This is only when warming up and at idle. I'm thinking it could be the o-ring?
Hard to say without doing test.
Ridiculous $70. For a pan gasket?
Rockauto has them cheaper
Man you could have had a great video if you would only show the things you didn't like what on the differential you did to drop it down.
Take the mounting bolts out so you can move the diff down a little thats it.
Taking the mounting bolts out is damn near impossible.
@@agooser26 They are tight on the driver side for sure
um................................is that a f*cking bentley? lol
Yes it is. Bought it vandalized You can see the whole series here ruclips.net/p/PL-arRGUA-sv_-KCtJ88wsYiYc3JHrVHjF
Best solution, dont drive GM veh. not sorry btw.
I dont know about that lol
Lord have mercy there's one in every crowd, not sorry BTW.
I guess you prefer walking 🙄
Wtf weld the suckered or you will be on your back or she will blow
3 lol
2 too late lol
Say oy please! Oil is pronounced OIl, not ol. There is an I in there. Please annunciate
We in the south. Thats how we talk.
@@4LaneBlacktop ain't nothin wrong wit it..... Keep it coming.
How did you reach top bolt in drivers side to drop differntial?
I don't believe there is a top bolt on the driver side. I just removed the 3 bolts as I pointed out in the video