We changed the oil in the noisy 5.3 and this happened!! The damage is done unfortunately..
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 10 май 2022
- Budget friendly, professional style scanner
amzn.to/3UMSN7D
Basic Code Reader
amzn.to/3GZFDhT
Blue tooth scan tool
amzn.to/3org3vL
Perfect panel trim tool
amzn.to/40hPshS
Push pin removal pliers
amzn.to/3US2FN7
Excellent beginner plus tool kit
amzn.to/3UY6e4z
Excellent Basic Starter Tool Kit
amzn.to/41JVRn2
Must Have Gearwrench set
amzn.to/3AfZNAc
Power Probe Circuit Tester
amzn.to/3mOrQ6N
Basic Test Light
amzn.to/40mKdNN
4.8 5.3. 6.0 6.2
#wesselmotorworks #keepwrenching #wrenchingwithkenny #advanceautoparts #autozone #oreillyautoparts #gmctrucks #chevytrucks #fordtrucks #chevy #gmcsierra #gmcsonoma #gmcservice #maintenance #oil #oilchange #silverado #silverado2500 #1500 #suburban #tahoe #tapping #oilpressure #lifter 
Авто/Мото
I am the son of an old school mechanic. My dad always told me to run my finger around the inside of the oil filter threads before installing to make sure there are no metal "burrs" from the manufacturing process. Don't want those things in your oil. Godspeed dad.
Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧
Amen... I'm anal about new filters myself... I blow on the holes and take a paper towel to the new threads and wipe anything I can find from the manufacturer tapping the hole
Plus, it may not be ideal to crank down on the drain plug so hard that the socket sticks to it. Holy crap lol
Thank your dad,was very smart person,God bless him,where ever his is,🙏
@@SmoothCruizer37Anal and blowing? You have a lot of innuendos there. This is a family friendly channel!
No time or money for oil changes , but hey , look at those cool wheels
😂😂😂😂
Amen. As the old saying goes: chrome won't get you home!!😃
Gota be a kid.
Spin bearing
Wait until you see the stereo system!
It amazes me how many people don’t check their oil level regularly. I check mine monthly. Oil is cheap,engines aren’t.
I'll check when im at the gas station topping off sometimes. Coolant and oil, doesn't take long and great for peace of mind
You should be checking your fluids each week. I look under my hood every Sunday. Check the fluids and just give everything a once over.
I try to give my vehicles a go over once a week or once every other week.
When the only vehicles I have owned consistently burned oil or were known to burn oil, I pretty much developed a habit of checking my car's oil at least every week.
Well never changing the oil is the reason just stupidity
Lost oil pressure in my 04 silverado 5.3. I was next door to an auto shop. They quoted 6000 for a new engine. Said it spun a bearing. Even sent me a video of the vehicle running with no oil pressure to show off the noise. I replaced oil pump, timing chain, and pickup tube oring for about $500. I've put at least another 20,000 miles on it
I think I would have poured some oil in the motor with the plug out to flush out more of the sludge. I almost always do.
@@clarkthomas354 ewww, talk about fraud, waste, and abuse 😖
@@willg.5168for flushing his own engine out? Wtf are you on about?
@@mikeschmidt4800 WELL, if you want to scientifically explain how it's possible that pouring fresh oil in your motor only for it to drain straight out the pan thinking that alone will flush out impurities, then I'm all ears🤷🏽♂️😆
Now, pouring in fresh synthetic oil since it's a detergent oil and running it several hundred miles(preferably highway) would be a remarkable way to flush out sludge, of course it'd take a few changes to do so.
So yeah, that's "WTF" I was on my friend 🙂👍🏽
This is testimony to the fact that LS motors are bulletproof. I’ve been a mechanic for 45 years, and I’ve come across some pretty bad oil this rates rates up there with the worst, reminds me of that old Fram commercial ,
“ PAY ME NOW, OR PAY ME LATER”
In this case, I believe that the old LS here, defied all the old rules, of
FREE WEAR AND TEAR.
Something happened by 2007 and the LS became a bunch of pure garbage.
@@AmericanFarmerHVAC2024Active fuel management, also known as displacement on demand.
@@AmericanFarmerHVAC2024 It was the AFM/DOD they added. Causes collapsed lifters. I just sold my 2012 Yukon with 260k miles though. Still ran like a top. I used good oil and changed it ahead of the computer. Often when the computer said there was still 30% oil life remaining.
@@ericpigg2689 That helps but I've been involved in so many of these engine rebuilds I hate them with a passion.
@@AmericanFarmerHVAC2024 I can see that for sure. I was lucky no doubt.
I did the oils change game for five years, the amount of people that brought in junk vehicles with motors that used oil was almost funny. What was the common thing was when I would inform them that the vehicle was low or had no oil on the dipstick at preservice, how they would get mad at me like I drove their vehicles for several thousands of miles between services and ran em out or low was hilarious
It's crazy how some customers can't take responsibility for their own actions. Thanks for sharing & keep wrenching 🔧
The 5.3 is a great engine. I have a 2004 Silverado with 125,000 miles on it. I take very good care of it because I can't afford a new truck.
I agree. The 5.3 is a beast. My '04 Silverado had 286,000 on it when I had to let it go. Motor, trans., and rear all worked as new. Could still tow my trailer or boat without and pull out in traffic like it did when new. Had to let it go 'cause everything else just rusted away. Broke my heart. Like losing your best friend. In a way, it was.
My 2013 tahoe just hit 126k and use her to tow my 32 ft rv/tandem axle 16ft loaded trailer. She purs like a lion. I call her the red dragon lol. Only issue (getting fixed today) was leaking radiator so far.
I know that Rite Take care of it and it will take care of U love my 07 LowHoe 😂😊
03 Sierra and 07 Yukon, both north of 300,000 miles. Both 5.3, Yukon has AFM (🤬). Religious about oil and filter changes.
It's a shame people abuse them like this. This was a GMT800, before AFM/DOD. These things would run 300k miles all day long. My 2003 has 240k miles on it and purrs like a kitten. A big thirsty pissed off kitten.
Needs to do another oil change before long!
That's what I was thinking too. Then throw in the synthetic oil with a quart of LB in it!
Definitely
Using the right oil this time. Use that fram oil as a solvent, warm it up then dump it hot
Yup id do it after like 100 miles and possibly one more 1000 miles later for comfort
I would have put a quart of transmission fluid in it. Change the oil in 500 miles.
Kenny taught me how to rebuild a transfer case in a 2003 Chevrolet 2500HD 6.0L pickup. $500 in parts and it works great. Thank you Kenny!
That's great! Thanks for sharing & watching the channel. Keep wrenching 🔧
old school trick, before you change the oil, put a quart of kero in the crankcase to break up the sludge and then change oil
Or Marvel Mystery Oil? A dose 100 miles before each change?? (What I used to do back when I had a car.)
Just use a good quality oil, change every 3-6k miles (dependent on engine and oil types), and it won't build up that sludge in the first place. The kerosene or diesel or marvel tricks can help remediate sludge in engines that haven't been treated well by previous owners but in those cases, they will always have premature wear that will impact performance and longevity. Adding those things to the oil significantly reduces viscosity which can harm modern oil actuated devices like VVT, or cause lumps of sludge to clog small oil passages in ways that might cause major problems. Putting a borescope in the oil fill to ensure no sludge when buying is a better way to go.
@@ExaltedDuck A quart of diesel fuel works better. Drive the truck around for a few minutes then change the oil. And never change oil when the engine is cold.
If I were going to do that I would use ATF instead.
Or Marvel Mystery Oil works too
I vote that we make the socket included bolt a thing!
Bruh that would be funny
Ford did, kinda. Don't get me wrong, I'm all for a positive stop drain plug to prevent over tightening but plastic might not have been the material of choice.
...and make them all 10mm so some of us can get replacements. 🤣
I like the ones that are square that you just stick your ratchet extension in like a rear-end plug.
It is. Look up "square drive bolt". It's like an Allen head but 4 sided instead of 6. Also, Robertson drive is similar but has a self-centering pyramid. Because Henry Ford didn't like the salesman for Robertson screws (supposedly, they went to "different churches"), the US has generally adopted Philips for screws. Robertson has remained common in Canada, though. With the right sized hole, a ratchet's square drive should be able to fit.
I'm 73 years old and been driving since I was 16. Since then I chedk everything under the hood once a week. Even though I don't drive much now I still do this,especially checking oil level and engine coolant level.
That's a great habit to have. Thanks for sharing your wise words. Keep wrenching 🔧
That's insane how badly that motor was neglected 😞 I own a 2001 GMC Yukon that has over 300k on it. It looks nothing like that motor it still runs like new and would drive it cross country without fear. Those motors are bulletproof. But you still need to take care of it.
My 2002 Sierra had 407K when I sold it, and it purred like a kitten. Yes, someone actually bought it!
My 2001 has 350k+. I bought it new. I change the oil every 5000 miles with full synthetic. I recently drove it on a 1000 mile trip. I got 17 MPG driving 70 to 80 MPH. That's not much different from when it was new. People need to learn that taking care of their car saves money in the long run.
Yowser
Main reason to oil the gasket is to let the seal slide as it gets tightened. This is supposed to prevent it from bunching up (good visual, look at slow mo of drive wheels on top fuel dragsters). With modern elastomers, it's probably less of a problem. I wouldn't be surprised if they have copolymers and fillers in the rubber to help prevent binding, and residual mold release from manufacturing that help, and the machined mating surface is probably smoother and flatter than it would have been when the conventional wisdom became conventional... That probably all helps too. Still, for the amount of time it takes and the lack of any downside I can see, I go ahead and oil it anyway. In my experience, cleaning the mating surface and adequately tightening are much larger impacts on oil filter leaks.
Glad to see someone else priming the filter. I do this every oil change on my 5.3. I hear people actually arguing against this. I have heard them say this will somehow HARM the engine. I really do not see how when this filter is full every other time you crank the engine. I will give you that it probably wont hurt the engine to run 5 seconds while it fills the filter, but if you can avoid that by spending an extra 2 minutes on an oil change, why not?
Exactly!
40 years ago, on a construction site, i ran a drum type wacker diesel machine out of oil, and it stopped as it was clanking.
We toped it off, and it ran fine afterward.
It was one of my first jobs.
Car quest filters are garbage
Flush it with kerosine.
I sold my 2004 Silverado step side last year. It had a 5.3v8 and 268,000 miles. It never used any oil. Was always on full mark at 5K miles and could still see through it. The kid that bought it drives it every day!
07 to 14. 5.3 is a pile of crap. Oil sucking. Burning. Gm crap
My 04 yukon has 285,000 and oil is clear at 3000 oil change.
I guarantee your care and consideration for this customers vehicle is 100% unappreciated
When I come across a engine like this, I pour a quart of the thinnest, cheapest oil I have on hand in the engine with the drain plug out. Helps flush crap out.
I use diesel. Cheaper.
@@tasaman
I feel a detergent oil works better at carrying the crud to the filter at the same time protecting the metal engine parts. I have run 10W for 500 miles to loosen slug up and carry it to the filter. I've then changed oil and filter with required weight, every thousand miles for 3000. Engine lasted another 125,000 even after first owners abuse, and having a carburetor, which washes the cylinder walls of lube.
@@sem4502 I get it. You are not just flushing. You are running on that oil. I’m talking strictly for flushing out an engine. You can pour 2 or 3 gallons of diesel for very cheap and then still filter and use it.
8@@tasaman
Same
Been changing oil in vehicles for 45 years, have never pre-filled my oil filters. Have never had any engine failures, either.
Thanks for sharing your experience. Keep wrenching 🔧
When I had a Chevy S10 2WD with a 4.3L. the factory filter was a PF47. I used a PF 52 which I primed with Marvel Mystery oil. Then add 4 QTS of Mobil1 5W30. Perfect fill. That engine stayed clean and quite.
Great video Kenny, to the point, no dragging it out with nonsense, very informative. Thankyou..
Liked the sensible comments and addressing priming and oiling the gasket.
A friend of mine owned a repair shop and had a customer that had more money than he knew what to do with. I bought a brand new Datsun 280Z (that should tell you how long ago it was) and NEVER changed the oil or filter. He added oil when it was low but it was never changed. My buddy told me that when the engine finally blew at around 80,000 miles the filter weighed 40 lbs., pretty much a solid block of steel. Your comment on the weight of the filter reminded me of that. Keep the good stuff coming buddy.
That’s why I change my own oil
Going to a Jiffy lube is a crapshoot. I don't need some 18 year old kid tearing the threads out of my oil plug drain hole.
@@robertdonadee9860 Or putting it on the lift by the floorboards. Happened to me.
I'm 80 years old and I've been driving since I was 14. I've had several transmission failures and all were made by Chevrolet. However, you have to give Chevy credit for knowing how to build a V-8, both the Old School versions and the LS series. I've owned quite a few and they're bulletproof. This video is more proof of that.
Also, you lube the gasket to keep it from rolling up or wrinkling when it contacts the sealing surface, one of the more reasonable reasons I've heard from old mechanics.
Don't tell him he says you don't have to do that ,,,,I've always put oil on them ,,I agree you need to
ב''ה, if the mating surface is already oily it may not matter so much.
I've always heard some oil also helps the gasket rubber swell and maintain a good seal. Not a ton, just a finger swipe with the drips from priming the filter.
@@josephkanowitz6875 I always tell the kids the same thing I was told 40y ago- take your finger- gloved nowadays, and take some of the oil off the old oil filter O-ring and apply it to the new one. In a commercial environment, it's as much about preventing double gasketing as the lubrication, but shh. don't tell them...
You get it? If the gasket is missing (and in a busy commerical environment it will be up to even once a month), then it abruptly gets their attention when they see it gone!
@@iadr Excellent observation!
Additionally, some people might spray down the filter area with engine cleaner after removing the filter, so for them the block would be 'clean and dry' when you remount filter, which could make it harder to turn, because you are only hand-tightening...
@@iadr I always use the new oil, while I fill the new filter. Why would you use dirty oil from the old filter ?
Can’t deny that the 5.3 is a good engine
You can prime a filter that's installed horizontally or upside down. Fill it up like you did with this one and then turn it upside down over the oil bottle and only the oil in the center tube of the filter will drain out. A check.valve holds the rest of it in. I have a '93 Corvette with the oil filter mounted upside down on top of the engine and that's how I prime the filter every time!
That is only with quality filters..most all quick lube places use cheap filters that don't even have a anti back siphon valve in then.
I had a 98z71 that I put in the shop for a intake gasket and asked that he only use oem equivalent parts.( highest priced mechanic in town) When I got the tk back everything seemed ok.next morning when I started the truck it was knocking like crazy. Called mechanic immediately and as I was on the phone the knocking went away.(he tried to explain all trucks that model do that on start up) I told him this one never did,he said his mechanic has one just like it and it does the same thing) well I went to investigating and found a cheap oil filter ,looked up the filter to find out it had no anti back siphon valve which ment there was no oil going to the bearings on startup.
Just heads up always buy quality parts.
PS.FIRST AND LAST TIME USENING THAT MECHANIC.
Oh, grief.
The state of that oil. And the paltry volume.
I, too, grew up with a Boomer Dad. Always tinkering on the car, even bled brakes more than once. Loved to help out with the occasional top-end rebuild.
In the process his involved processes became mine.
Check before you start, check thru the procedure, check once more before closing up.
And always preview and clean new components before install.
Helped more than I knew in Mech Training in the Air Force, that's for sure.
Bring back Car Shop in school. Service shops wouldn't see half of these issues if people knew more.
Love your work, Kenny. Keep wrenching!
I remember back in the day I just began using use Quaker State oil in an old Chevy 1 ton van because it was cheaper..Every 3 thousand got changed. A problem appeared with a tapping noise in the engine. Couldn't track the noise down. I was baffled. So I ended up attempting to change the oil. While doing this when I removed the filter it was totally clogged and weighed a ton. I ended up using transmission fluid to help flush the system and did another oil change. To make a long story short I ended up using a different brand of oil, Pennzoil and never had an issue since. I read that Quaker State oil had been nicknamed Quaker sludge and now I believe this.
Ive heard that YEARS ago about Quaker state. My mom used dollar store brand oil in a 85 fiero because it leaked oil. Motor locked up and it looked like road tar inside that motor.
Back in the day before Pennzoil change their formula we used to call it paraffin oil Because one of their additives was paraffin wax and it would gum up your motor like crazy.
Penzoil and Quaker State are both owned by Shell.
@@LA_Commanderes they are, they acquired both companies in 2002 and changed their additive packages.
We are Castrol fans..
Kenny, that Napa 1042/WIX 51042 is the OE size for 03 - 06. Try using the 1522/51522 fits 2002 and older. But it's longer and easier to use on all 1st gen LS trucks.
It’s what I use also
I use the AC Delco pf61e for mine never an issue. Napa is to hit and miss on their quality anymore. Had one filter leak where it is crimped at the base and received one with no gasket both were the 1522.
Kenny, I like your laid back approach to vehicle repairs. I have a 2004 1500 with the 5.3L with 307,000 miles and original transmission. I know it’s getting tired but it still keeps going. The main thing is I keep up with regular maintenance (oil, filters, trans fluid filters and fill) to keep it going. Had to replace the transfer case with another used one due to case wear causing fluid to leak out. All good and ready to work again. The LS is a solid motor.
You can purchase a kit from merchant auto that is a redesigned pump housing cover. That will not rub through the case. Its actually pretty easy to install but you do have to open up the transfer case. There are plenty of videos on youtube that can walk you through it. It is a common issue.
I’d never put a transfer case in one of those without doing the pump rub eliminator kit from merchant auto or a couple of other ones that look pretty good. I caught mine just when it started leaking and was able to put the MA kit and a new rear case half from them in it for a full repair without any bearings or anything else. I did put a new chain in it because I was there.
Got an 06 Chevy Silverado transmission went out at 219000 Miles and right now it has 242 on it still runs really good it leaks oil in the bad places of course like where the oil cooler line yes it is have done that three times and it still leaks valve covers are leaking but it runs and drives transmission was 2000 even out the door to rebuild.. LS ain't a bad engine and it hasn't had the oil changed regularly it does get change but not on time but it ain't full-on neglected either
A 4l60e with over 300k is a fuckin’ miracle.
@@01SilveradoLT I also had a 4l80E with 300,000 miles
Couple things on the 5.3 burning oil. On a relative's 2010 gmc, gm came up with 1- a revised PCV valve cover to stop allowing oil to squirt directly into the intake port, 2- a deflector that blocked oil squirting into the bottom of the cylinder wall from oil pressure relief above the filter (inside the pan) Engine did not smoke or leak oil.
On oil pressure, the pick up tube to pump O-ring gets hard and loses seal.
I got a afm 5.3 and I put a oil catcher after pcv orifice
Swapped out the valve cover on my 2007 GMC 250k was burning damn near a quart a month now maybe a quart in 4k miles.
@@kylecasetta4091 I'm having the same issue, what valve cover did you get?
It's amazing how quiet even a damaged engine can be with good oil and the right filter just replaced.
I've had cars that had noise but had just been serviced.
Servicing again seems like a waste.
Till the vehicle gets the right part number filters and the manufacturers recommended oil .
Then the mechanic looks like a magician.
This can be true also with the correct air filter.
My 302 CFI sounded like a jet plane was trying to land on you while driving.
The motorcraft air filter tried instead took that noise away.
I have always used Fram filters in every vehicle that I have owned over the past 35 years, changing oil and filter myself every 4 months regardless, and never experienced a problem with Fram.
I’ve never had a problem using Fram oil filters either. I would usually buy Purolator or Motorcraft filters when I could get them but Fram makes good cartridge filters for Toyota or Hyundai cars.
@@picklerix6162 I have a 13 Camry and use a Fram Ultra cartridge filter, I also a have an F150 with a 5.4 Triton engine in it and the only filter i have used on the F150 and will ever use is a Motorcraft. An old "FORD GUY" told me years ago when I was about 16 (1978) Don't use anything but a Ford Filter on a Ford because there made to higher standard then Purolator or other filters. Other thing he told me was change the filter with every oil change!
Same, until they stopped selling them at autozone and oriellys in CA
Changing your oil that often will do that. Look up videos of filter cutouts. FRAM is trash and has been for decades.
Ronald we use Fram also but we only change every 20,000 to 25,000.
Amazing. This engine takes the abuse and keeps on ticking. It sounded pretty darn good to me. I'd run it about 50 miles to clean up the mess inside, change oil again to the syn oil, flush cooling system, put new battery in it, and drive it. Check oil once a week.
many years ago i pulled the plug on a 351 ford and literally got nothing, not a drop. put on new filter, filled the oil and started, no problem. that ford never missed a beat and never had a problem afterwards.
Maybe change the oil and filter again after 500 miles or so, get more / most of the sludge out.
The whole idea of oiling the filter gasket is to keep it from hanging up as it contacts the seat as you thread it on. Also- I have ALWAYS tightened my filters by hand the recommended 3/4 turn after the gasket seats and then another bit with a wrench. It has to seal against the amount of oil pressure the engine produces, and I have seen too many NOT tightened enough leak. Mind you- your not reefing on them, just be sure they are tight!
I agree with you but he always says just finger tight is good ,,,,but if you notice he always says I've never seen this car or truck before I have to laugh lol
@@briananderson3801 I've seen overtightened outnumber undertightened about 2000:1 In fact not sure I've ever seen a filter leak b/c it was loose. And that's in Canada where extreme temp swings affect majority of winter trips taken...and in cold starts oil pressure can exceed 125psi
its actually meant to provide a better seal. I work a lot of aircraft parts, and its almost mandatory to lube gaskets and o-rings with the fluid its supposed to transport - whether its a hydraulic pump, fuel filter, even a plug with an o-ring on the seat. It provides a little bit of surface tension that even if it was ever so slightly loose, the oil on the gasket would be sufficient enough to stop flow out from between the two mating surfaces.
I learned as a youngster - Oil filter wrenches have ONE purpose - to REMOVE oil filters.
this has more to do with your personality than anything. same as pre-fill. same as oci... all just games. i do em so i can unscrew with my hand.
As a quick lube tec. I have seen many cars trucks even diesel trucks with absolutely no oil and I mean bone dry doing 80 to 100 vehicles a day I’ve seen so so much great video very informative thanks
How fast do you do an oil change? Let's see 1 engine every 10 minutes that's 6 engines per hour. At a 10 hour work day that would be 60 engine oil changes. At a 12 hour day that would be 72 engine oil changes. 13 hours is 78 oil changes, 14 hours is 84 OC's, 15 hours is 90 OC's, 16 hours is 96 OC's, 99 OC's 16.5 hours. WOW 6 to 8 hours of OT per day.
@@sheldonmcclaflin8904 we have 2 techs on the floor for a 9 hour day and to be quite honest I can change the oil in 3 min regardless of what you think or what ever your opinion might be so ya 90 cars a day is not hard to see but thanks for your opinion
@@Daviddilligaf - Not questing your abilities, not the reason for my reply. My comment is simply that that is why I do my own oil changes. Less than 3 minutes of drain time doesn't give enough, leaves so much dirty oil. I drain it for at least 20-30 minutes, while doing other things.
Amazing results!
2001 5.3 Yukon. Changed oil every 5,000 miles. I'm at 360K on same engine and tranny. It's nearing the end for me, and I won't take it deep into the desert any more to stress it. But next to my house, best thing I've ever bought.
That's great! Your good to your vehicle & it treats you well. Thanks for sharing & watching the channel. Keep wrenching 🔧
I GUARANTEE that pre-lubing the filter gasket allows you to tighten the filter a little tighter when hand tightening (as I prefer to do)...
Baby muscles.
@@tayaria7280 stupid: the gasket MUST be oiled before install because if not it's not possible to tighten correctly per hand with so tiny access, and the removing from the filter after use will be very PROBLEMATIC...
@@leneanderthalien no true oil on the gasket will not help you tighten it more and reguardless they dont need to be tighten more than hand tightened anyways.
If you don’t know how to put a filter on, don’t do it all use a torque wrench, torque the oil filter to the proper specifications. If you don’t know how to put a filter on correctly that’s why you torque bolts sorta even pattern so you don’t break them off And the gasket is crushed evenly so for you apes out there, get a torque wrench in a cup and torque your oil filter torque spec, 18 to 20 foot pounds and people may laugh about this. It’s not a joke do the job right use a torque wrench on every bolt. There’s a reason why they have torque specs that’s why 90% of the gaskets out there don’t last because they were installed incorrectly we’re not torqued correctly.
@@CharlesLease-ei1ee SPIN ON filters all tell you to use your hand to tighten. Use of a tool can damage the filter housing.
1) ensure old gasket is removed and clean mating surfaces
2)light coat of oil on gasket, tighten till gasket touches filter base
3) hand tighten an additional 1/2 - 1 full turn. The filter will specify how much based on the hardness (durometer) of the rubber seal.
The light coat of oil makes it easier to install the correct number of turns.
Cartridge filters, sure, use a torque wrench on the cover, but the torque isn't what does the sealing, it's the fit of the o-ring. Most leaks are due to people using old o-rings or stacking old and new in those styles.
Thats a Chevy LS engine for ya. My guess would be from the looks of the drain oil, the pick up screen is probably sludged up. I would recommend to the owner to drive it for a couple hundred miles, then change the oil again. Then maybe change it again in a 1,000 miles. If you have a good parts man, he can do some cross referencing and find a longer filter that has a little more filtering capacity.
a NAPA 100255 oil filter has the same threads except longer can. a 2014 chevy v6 impala oil filter (i don't remember the number) will fit the LS.
My first LS I bought 2 years ago I thought the oil filter looks same size as filter on my Harley.
i add a quart of tranny oil 1 week prior to oil change...got rid of my ford tick
Had it happen. Ran kerosene through it
Starting it. For a few minutes. Changed the filter again and drained it. New oil and filter. Changed it again around 1000.miles.Truck ran forever. The oil pump screen was gunked up.
You must own a junkie ass dodge
Can't believe 1 quart of oil came out. But you can only do so much for someone's vehicle.
I have found that under high rpm conditions, my 04 LS based 5.3 can consume oil through the valve seals due to the fact that the oil returns in the heads cannot handle the volume of oil at high engine speeds. Yes, I change my oil when the oil life displays less than 25%, therefore there is has never been any sludge in my drained oil.Matter of fact the oil looks only a little darker than when it went in.At 325k miles, the oil pressure is 38-45 psi at idle depending on the temp of the engine.I bought my 04 Z71 new with 11 miles on it. I have had VERY good service from it apart from a rear crank seal at 256k miles.
My drug of choice has always been Chevy.
My ol lady had a 2007 trailblazer with the 5.3. She ran that thing out of oil more times than I can count. For the last 40,000 miles we had that thing, you had to add a quart of oil every 100 miles, it burned and leaked it out so fast. Between front end parts, steering parts, and that horrible engine with its dod garbage, it did make it to 260,000 miles before we sold it to a scrapper. It still ran and drove, the ac and heat still worked, all the power options, including the seat. We were just spending too much on oil each week.
The oil pump bypass is the reason for most LS oil pressure issues on high mileage engines. I understand that this engine has some real exceptions. Gunk collects in the bypass piston and spring keeping it from closing to regulate oil pressure creating a low oil pressure condition. I have found that on my 4.8L LS at 241,000 miles that if you add some engine cleaner before the oil change and let it run for 5 to 10 minutes, then cycle the engine off and on with a few minutes in between starts frees up the bypass piston and spring in the oil pump. Just keep the engine below operating temp like 150 or less. Hope this helps someone.
I just had a camshaft and lifter job done on my 2004 4.8 LS Chevy and the "oil pressure low" warning comes on whenever my truck is idling, so I am going to try what you recommend and hope that it fixes my problem. It is at around 481k miles and this is the first time I have done anything to the motor itself except for it's regular oil change every 3k miles and all that. So I really don't think that I need to replace the oil pump as so many people have told me. At least I hope I don't, but we'll see how it goes. Thanks for the recommendation and I will let yu know how it goes. 😃👍🏼
Crappy oil and filter BUT it's WAY better than what was in it for sure!
One of the tricks that I use is get a large soda cup that will go over the filter after you get it lose but before it starts pouring oil out, slide over the filter and turn it off the oil won’t spash all over. Obviously you can do this with the filter that comes out straight up. Just makes a little cleaner job. Great video!
Ah, my favorite Service 4WD message. In my case it was a bad TCCM, but there are so many other options that GM was kind enough to include.
In my younger days when we had a .otor with damage like this,I would drop a new filter in about 500 to 750 miles .then resume regular changes.sometimes it helped sometimes too much damage for was done,but it did take some contaminants out and you crossed your fingers and held your breath.
Good suggestion, on older engines it is still necessary to watch your oil pressure. If you see it start to drop before your normal oil change then the filter is most likely starting to clog up. if the oil still looks good just change the filter.
1989 c1500 5.3 18000. Doing a restoration on body. New bed, fenders and doors.
Ken The oil pressure wasn’t too bad at 2000 rpm it was reading a little over 40psl for oil. Time will tell. There wasn’t much oil in the truck. Nice video
You actually only need 7psi Oil Pressure per 1,000 RPM .... It'll be fine !!
Wow, those are some good tires.
Like your channel, greetings from Belgium, Europe
Thank you! @paulw068 hopefully the weather is wonderful in Belgium. Thanks for watching the channel. I appreciate you. Keep wrenching 🔧
When I was in High school I raced a Cuda with a brand new built engine with automatic. I was in my 69 rt charger manual 4 speed. Well when I was just about to hit 4th gear I heard a huge bang. My windshield was coveted in oil so I shut down. Turns out the other car blew the oil ring gasket because they didn't lube it. That's all I know. So I choose to always lu e them just in case.
There is simply NO excuse - NONE, for not checking the oil AND changing it on a regular basis. Especially on a vehicle with that type mileage. Come on!...
What if I have an electric
I have a 2006 Mercury Grand Marquis with 387,000 miles on it. I have changed the oil and filter every 3000 miles. I use 10w30, not 5w30. I will soon be changing to 10w40 to compensate for engine wear and increased clearances. The oil still looks almost new when I drain it out. Oil and filters are a LOT cheaper than engines. I do have a spare engine for it though, for when the original engine finally does wear out. I do put oil on the filter seal. It helps to avoid tearing the seal. You can also turn it just a little bit more. I always snug up filters with a wrench. I use spray brake cleaner to clean the drain plug, the area around the drain plug, and the flange where the filter goes.
What oil treatments (like Lucas and STP) do is increase the viscosity of the oil to compensate for loose clearances in a worn engine, and they definitely do help. I had a '64 Fairlane with the 200ci straight six in it that was burning a lot of oil. I put 40w oil in it, and about a quart of STP, and that reduced the oil burning by 2/3, and I continued to drive it another 5 years or so like that. I would have used much thicker oil in that engine. It won't fix the damage, but it will compensate for it to some degree, the engine will run better and last longer.
These old 5.3 trucks (99-06) are just tanks. The motors can take a ton of abuse and just keep on ticking (pun intended)
You keep up on maintenance with these and you’ll easily see over 400k on a motor.
The 4l60 transmissions go PNNNN sometimes, but these trucks tend to be abused by their owners so it’s not surprising that the transmissions grenade as they try to do burnouts.
I am glad to see that this truck in the video seemed to bounce back a little with a little work.
Good video. Keep it up! 👍
Those old ls motors are tough as nails. That's unbelievable
No their not.
Ain't no damn motor. It's an engine.
Any engine that can run on 1 quart of dirty ass oil having 250,000 miles is a bad ass motor
@@nobullshit9721 Right. Keyboard mechanics can't help themselves they feel compelled to make a comment based on their backyard wrenching experience
@@nobullshit9721 Engine. Motors are electric, engines are internal combustion. Learn the difference.
On these GM trucks and SUVs, it's easier to use the longer "truck" filter due to the difficulty in reaching around the filter. I agree, it is in an awkward position. So instead of the PF46 you can use the PF61. Or if it takes the PF48 you can run the PF63. Both these filters are longer and fit just as well. But they are easier to grab in that narrow hole.
Had a 2008 gmc sierra with the 4.8 liter engine...177,000 miles when i traded it...never a problem...i changed the oil regularly...great engine.
Most of the time, it's all about the maintenance. Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧
I bought a used 1986 Jaguar XJ6. I found a mechanic that was very familiar with the car. I had him do an oil change before I went on a trip to Vermont. Very hilly Vermont. As I was climbing a very steep road, I was losing power. At the bottom of the other side of the hill, I checked the oil and found none on the stick, so I added a quart and continued home with no issues. The next day I checked the oil again and found none on the stick. It took three more quarts until I finally saw oil on the stick.
The mechanic had a container that held 5 quarts that he would put in and he would put the last two quarts in individually. He forgot to put those 5 quarts in the engine. I had half that trip on two quarts of oil and three quarts for the trip back! I later found that he was a drunk. Luckily the car never smoked or gave me any problems after that.
9:00 As I'm sure you know, those oil pressure sensors fail, and sometimes you get correct readings, max pressure readings or it drops down to zero.
Whoa … That’s one tough motor… I can’t believe it even started
Right !?!? I'm pretty impressed it's running as well as it does
@@WrenchingWithKenny it was kind of like a suspense movie .. I could tell you weren’t sure what was going to happen when you turned the key … the suspense was killing me .. being a Chevy man …
@@stephenrickstrew7237, lol , I really was unsure !!
if I didn’t intervene this is what my wifes car would be like, seriously
Our 2001 Silverado with the 5.3L had 200k on it and the engine was still strong. The body however was rusting away after 13 years, so we bought a new one.
Got a 00 gmc sierra....now has 345k on it.....its a complete rust wagon....and the engine has an oil leak somewhere now....but still runs great
Maybe it's just because of how my grandpa taught me and drilled it into my head, but it always amazes me how your vehicle is one of the most important parts/purchases of your life, yet how little people care to respect and maintain them.
If I were the owner, I would be back at your shop to get another oil change and filter in 1,000 miles. The insolubles and carbon buildup in that engine are going to use up the detergent component from the additive package in no time. The next change will also flush out some of the metal as it is loosened from laminar surfaces. He might get a few extra thousand miles out of the engine AND the next oil filter should only weigh 3lbs when removed LOL! Unbelievable how some people spin the wheel! I would LOVE to see the spectro lube oil analysis from that sample you drained! OMG! When did GM start using a 3/8" drive drain plug?
It’s the new standard equipment
@@stephenrickstrew7237 - LOL! How bout it! I've seen some pretty strange stuff but Kenny gets some interesting things in the shop.
Back in the ‘70’s I was working on a Chevy van and I said this oil sure looks bad (35,000 miles). He said well that is still break-in oil.
@@mystic24100 - Wwwow! All I can say is Wow!
There's a oring on the oil pump that goes bad and leaks causes it to lose oil pressure I've done many of them
Good video, I learned a few things.
This reminds me of a Uniparts filter I installed during an engine rebuild on a UK Triumph 1300 car a lifetime ago. I tapped the filter before installation on a flat surface (for some reason) and was amazed and appalled at the amount of swarf that fell out of it.
Like a rock
Would it be beneficial to change the oil again after the drive?
Yes. Probably a few times
I always thought that oil on the filter gasket was to help it slide when the filter was tightened on. And I found that they all tighten up over time no matter how tight you put them on. Hand tight is plenty.
After watching this I'm going to change my oil today!
Shows that these Chevys are well engineered to be able to "cope" with this kind of abuse, and neglect
I'm a GM fan so I have hi hopes she'll run a while longer anyway.
They are a very robust engine that will tolerate a lot of abuse and neglect-as this one already has. And after 250,000 miles it still sounds very nice.
And with good maintenance they will last a very long time and never give any trouble either.
Thank you for your videos
I had a 1999 GMC Suburban, sold it with 265k, didn't burn a drop, didn't leak a drop. Recently bought a 2004 Chevy Suburban with 155k. Both have 5.3's. Hoping my new one serves me as well as my first one.
The filter is 1qt and what drained is another . 3 qts low . Run some kerosene through it for about a 5 minute idol . Drain 3 days later and all those oil passages will be clear again . New filter and oil run it for 1000 and add a qt of kerosene run it for 50 miles and drain . That’s as clean as it will ever get .
Hey I wonder what a compression test would show.
Thanks for the great video
Thinking back over my career and the several dozen engines like this I rebuilt many times the greatest damage was to the oil pump. Especially seeing that fine metal flake look.
The logic behind this is that the oil pump pulls up unfiltered oil from the crank case. And then pushes it through the oil filter. As a grittiness increases in it and change oil, it chews up the oil pump, impeller’s, and inside of the chambers they spin in.
Early on the filter will catch most of this fine metal particles until the filter becomes clogged and the and the pressure bypass pops open to allow Unfilter oil to flow through the engine.
It’s a customer understood what was going on and be possible just to replace the oil pump. Especially if it can be replaced easily with the engine still in the car.
The early Saab turbo charged engines were a different animal all together. The first thing that would fail in those would be the turbo bearings.
The turbo impellers would become extremely hot and burn any oil sitting in them when the engine is shut off after running hard. That burnt oil created a grit they called coke and start chewing at the bearings. Generally, the indication of this was a bearing one that would start about 500 miles past the recommended oil change general.
Any working car is a blessing no matter how ugly it is. A simple 3k oil change will keep you away from engine repair and public transportation.
I regularly prime oil filters when i do oil changes- you can prime the horizontal ones- you just have to be quick about putting it on. As soon as the threads start, no more oil should leak out because the anti-drainback valve is holding it back, then if you spin it on fast, the centrifugal force will further keep the oil in the filter. You might loose a few drops, but it wont just pour out like you would suspect ;) In my experience, the gen 3 5.3 should have a cold oil pressure of around 60 cold 40 hot- the 40 cold 25 hot tells of the damage to the bearings. I just replaced an LQ4 because someone ran it out of oil- I tell people to check your oil when you put gas in the car- start the pump and instead of standing around, pop the hood and check the oil...
I do my sideways one, just fill half full. I've beat and wrench too many stuck filters off not to oil the gasket. The vertical holds oil, the horizontal will hold oil and the upside down vertical doesn't drain down. I was at an oil change place and the person wasn't filling the filters and I heard a truck rattle before it got pressure. my not have hurt it that time, but if he's your oil change guy.......
Instead of going to that hassle, just put it in flood mode and crank it
I just don't fill the ones on an angle to max capacity. At least you don't dry start the moter and cause more damage. I also use a filter with a anti back siphon valve.
Did you change the oil and filter again after the test drive.
I use to prime my PF51 with Marvel Mystery Oil. When I had a Chevy. With the Tacoma I can't.
I purchased a Chevrolet truck in 1995. I change the oil every 3000 miles. I still own that truck. Still has the factory 4.3liter motor. My truck doesn't burn oil. It's like I tell my grandchildren, if you take care of your equipment. Your equipment will take care of you.
I love the 4.3 motor
I always check the oil level and clarity of the oil after each oil change at an outside provider!
Personally, I ONLY use Wix filters, oil is checked weekly. Once it starts to get dark, it's gone. This is how my 96 Blazer has 220,700 miles and still runs great. Last change I cut the filter open just for shits and giggles, no metal in it. Keep on wrenching.
Jeff you are wrong about dark oil being "gone". We change oil every 20 to 25 thousand miles and it is dark long before we change it.
Lets do some math and discount your stoey with jt: your vehicle is 27 years old with 220,whatever miles on jt. That's way less than 10k miles a year, which isnt shit, really
You put 300k on a car in 5 years and then tell me what worked for you. I'll maybe listen, then.
@Joe Blazer to be fair, 220,000 is 220,000 and one could argue that taking that many years is actually harder on the engine than putting it on it over a short period of time. At that mileage it is probably not a lot of hwy miles. Now we use Fram filters and Castrol. I have 3 Toyota vehicles with 1.4 million miles between them and I change oil every 20 to 25 thousand miles. Did the same thing on a civic and put almost 500,000 on it.
Dark color means nothing. Oil is still fine. Bough new 1986 Toyota Truck 22RE is a 37 year daily driver with 482K on original engine, transmission, drive line/U-joints, and differential. Change oil every 5K with that "shitty"dino oil- Castrol GTX 10W -40. Burns less than 1/2 quart between oil changes. 22RE engines are 500K plus durable.
Seen many Ls the pickup tube 0 ring is done. Reported oil pressure fluctuations. If you are lucky you catch it in time. Always fill the filters as much as possible when changing oil. Never hurts to put a 1/4 a quart in the engine after draining the oil. Help push any debri out. When you see clean oil finally dripping.
I have 2004 6.0 326,000 miles. i would start it and it would have next to zero oil pressure, then it would catch and go up to 40, 55 on the highway. Once it got colder i would start the truck and it would catch after a second or two but while warming up it might drop back down. So i changed the o ring. It looked fine when i removed it but i changed it anyway. Now it goes up right after starting and it's a solid 55 psi until it's warm and then it's 40.
What o ring are you talking about?
@@tonybyrne3613
The o-ring that seals the top of the oil pick up tube in the oil pan. I did mine in our 2005 yukon, and oil pressure at idle is now around 35-40, and when you step on it, the oil pressure moves right on up with motor speed to about 60 psi.
My son inlaw has 1 cup of oil in his 4 cylinder GMC. Wondered why it was shaking. I added 4 quarts. Stopped shaking. He blew up his last motor. Not checking oil level. Real genius.
I was instructed to put a film of oil on the filter gasket to prevent it from binding on either side when spinning it on. That's how I've been doing it for 45 years but I really don't think installing one dry would actually hurt anything.
One thing for sure, that motor is very close to the end. It wasn't just low on oil either. It was neglected by the owner or PO for many thousands of miles. Grit and poor lubricity from oil breakdown have been slowly killing it for a long time
Your comments on tightening filters and plugs should also apply to wheels. Some time ago I had a small argument with a mechanic about tightening wheel nuts. He firmly believes in impacting them on until his compressor explodes and I will use the impact to run them on and then tighten them by hand with a swing bar, pulling upward. I told him I want to be able to get them off if I have a flat out in the boondocks ,and I can easily put more than 100 ft.-lbs on them like that. He seemed incredulous that I had never had one come loose. I later removed a wheel he had put on and had to break one of the nuts.
Does your tire mechanic not own the proper TQ wrench 🔧 🤷🏼 Depending on the car they are between 85 and 110 ft pounds and trucks go up to 180 pounds. It’s a manufacturer spec
Tom my pet peeve is overtightened lug nuts.
@@devengudinas1649 Owning the proper tools in a box 20 feet away doesn't necessarily he'll go and get it when the impact is nearer. After all, he'll probably never have to take that wheel off.
That engine will go another 100,000 as long as he takes care of it
Your dreaming !
I have a habit of checking my engine oil every 3rd trip or so and engine coolant every 5th trip few times per month so I do not run low or I can see when the oil would mix and get contaminated. This is a very good preventative maintenance. Tire pressure every month or 2 I check and I took the wheels of once every 1.5 years to see my break pads.
Those 5.3 are tuff 😄
Lube the rubber seal so the gasket doesn’t stick to the motor and get a double gasket, then leak.
That’s wild I’m having the exact same issues with my 2000 Tahoe mines holding 10psi though. And I need to do intake manifold gasket’s since it’s idling way too rough
Hey Jack, sorry to but in, but try cleaning the throttle body. I had that issue one time and after that it idled and ran much smoother. Also look for vacuum leaks and it doesn't hurt to clean or even replace the PCV, usually in the valve cover, they're cheap and can make a difference in the oil pressure (everybody forgets about that). When you do your oil change, if you use regular oil it may improve the pressure, I find that conventional oil does make an engine hold better oil pressure, just like in this video. I find it better a lot of times, you just have to change it a little more often than synthetic. Also despite what he says, put oil on the rubber around the filter with your finger before you screw it on.
Oh I forgot to say that I would not change the intake gasket unless you are sure it's leaking.
Run some motor flush before changing the oil and do another oil change about 500 miles later . Repeat the motor flush each time you change oil. Small deposits can clog the micro screen below the oil pressure sensor and cause a low pressure to show up on the gauge. It’s a cheap fix if it works. Or new pump , sensor, pan gasket and pickup tube 0 ring can set you back a nice chunk. You got to change the oil anyway so try it. He says it surprised him and he’s an expert.Depends on how long you plan on driving the truck
@@russellstewart5414 Thankyou man I’ll try that today, I know my intake mani gaskets are bad too due to misfires on start ups so gotta do that too
Just a heads up with the Intake manifold gasket it's pretty straight forward and pretty simple. Did 1 on my 01 surburban. It would runs like ahit spit and sputter, now it runs like a raped ape
It's very happy all that metal in the oil is trying to tell you something it's going to die soon keep up your hard work making videos and have a blessed day today 🙏
I always prime my oil filters. And change the filter halfway through the 6000 mile interval. I buy a dozen Wix filters when they are on sale, it's cheap insurance. My neighbor has over 350,000 miles on his 5.3. Never had a repair that was major, and it doesnt even burn oil. When cared for and not beat on, the 5.3 is a very decent engine.
Excellent! Thanks for sharing. Keep wrenching 🔧