5.3 Oil Pan Removal Reveals a Dirty Secret !!!
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- Опубликовано: 25 дек 2023
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This totally flashed me back to 1971, at the tender age of 13 I spent some time with a very patient neighbor that was doing an engine swap on a very stock 55 Chevy convertible for its owner. It had the V8, IIRC mileage was in the high 80s and the engine was absolutely full of sludge. This particular engine had no oil filter from the factory. I learned so much from this guy, he and his wife had some issues and he moved elsewhere. This is where I really caught the bug to work on cars. At age 65, I still do!
Back in 70s a friend got a 56 Nomad with original 265 and no oil filter at all. He took off one of the valve covers with ' Chevrolet ' stamped in it and set it on the ground. He went back to the motor and there was a valve cover with
' Chevrolet ' stamped in it.
Sludge mold.
This took me back to the early 1960s I took the drain plug out of a (1923 aprox) Willeys Overland, now this was a one and a quarter inch plug, nothing came out? I poked it with a screw driver and a lot of sludge finally came out. Ted from down under.
I was at the tender age of 11 in 1971. I didn’t even know how to open a hood of a car.
Back then they had no filter, no pcv, and ran on leaded gas. A perfect recipe for early death.😅
@@markschmalenberger8301 I saw the underside of many 55- 57 chevies in my teens that were completely covered in grease and oil underneath from the
' road draft tube '
The meager ' Positive Crankcase Ventilation ' valve turned a lot of things around in its simplicity and use.
Not to be Mr. obvious, but when you saw the sludge in the heads, I would have figured the pan would be full off sludge. Even though you drained the oil. Nice video kenny.
12.26.23. 💁🏻♂️Gotta luv those extended oil change intervals ‼️
Incredible. This oil was seldom or never changed. Surprised the cam shaft bearings look so good
It could be the result of a known problem with the cylinder heads developing cracks allowing a small amount of DexCool to work its way into the oil. Affected about 1/3 of all 4.8 & 5.3s from 2001 thru 2006.
The aluminum was not hot enough during casting. Led to porous aluminum. While it held (initially), the corrosive nature of DexCool slowly ate into the aluminum.
It starts with a smell of coolant but no noticeable loss and not enough to show in the oil. It gets worse such that you're down a quart of coolant over a year and you start seeing DexCool condensing on the inside of your oil filler cap.
Not a fan of radiator leak stuff, but the copper based additive did buy me three years until I traded the YukonXL in.
GM did extend the warranty on the affected engines from 36K to 60k. However, every time I took it in, they claimed they could not find any leak. Not surprisingly, after my mileage surpassed the 60K mark, they told me I needed to replace the heads.
I got the regional manager involved and after they realized I'd kept all my service records complaining about the coolant, agreed to honor it as a warranty claim. I scheduled the work, and upon dropping off the vehicle was informed that due to GM filing bankruptcy, the warranty claim was no longer being honored. And that is how GM weaseled their way out of paying for a whole bunch of engines which suffered a serious manufacturing defect.
5.3 factory oil pumps are notorious for bypass spring issues resulting in low oil pressure. Do yourself a favor and slap a Melling M295 on there and never look back. Best $69 you will ever spend on a 5.3.
I am also rebuilding a 6.0 (364) engine. I few things I have learned about these engines is that the valve cover bolts, and the intake bolts you should replace because you can't buy the rubber seals separately. The valley pan cover, most times needs to be replaced on the Gen III engine because the wells where the knock sensors sit corrode in the seal area. If you were to swap out the connecting rods to Gen IV style rods, you need to balance the rotating/ reciprocating assy. I needed to add weight to mine, because the rods were 32 grams heavier, the pistons were 24 grams heavier. Probably missing some stuff, I'm 65 years old, can't remember like I did when I was younger. Sorry for getting long winded. Hope this helps you out, nobody helped me, learned as I went
Great Video Kenny. Thanks for explaining what you are doing. Those of us with limited experience greatly appreciate your work
Compared to my cheap three jaw pullers, yours is way better. I love that locking collar. About 4 years ago I noticed sludge coming out my 5.3 oil drain plug. It was a shock because I've religiously changed hot motor oil, complete with a record documenting changes every 5000 km, 80 changes over 400,000 km. I scratched my head and wondered if it was the cheap motor oil I had used a couple of years before. In response I flushed the case with seafoam, then added seafoam and motor oil, flushed again a week later, then flushed a month later, and so on. Still running fine today!
Cheap oil is cheap for a reason
This reminds me of a forty year old story. Dads mate had a 3.5 V8 Mercedes that he wasn't servicing. If they are not serviced the valve train fails. When, eventually he did have it serviced, the workshop manager was amazed he hadn't worn out the rockers. What the owner had done was put a bottle of Wynnes in the motor.
I use diesel fuel instead of gasoline for a makeshift solvent. A lot safer. On smaller pieces a follow up with Brakleen to wash off the residual diesel oil. Always use the Brakleen in a well ventilated area, (outside). You use a lot less Brakleen and you don't have to breath the nasty fumes.
Something that you might to try. I use mortar pans from Home Depot to catch fluids when disassembling engines.
Keep a bag of kitty litter around.
While in College, I worked for a rural NY Chevrolet dealership. They sold many trucks that had 400cu in small block engines. It was not unusual to find sludge. We got into the habit to place a quart of diesel in the crankcase, turn it over or run it, then watch the black sludge drain for a long period of time. We could then rebuild them or sell them to the drag racers.
That is why I like your videos, it brings me back. I and a friend of mine would buy old cars pull the engines, clean them up, new rings and rod bearings, make sure the valves were seated and not burnt and put them back together. It worked every time we did it, old oil burners and smokers would run like new. Sometimes we would do it without pulling the motor, try that now days, impossible.
I bought a 1972 GMC Jimmy 4x4 with a 350 V8 and the seller swore that the oil was changed every 5000 miles with Quacker State oil. That engine looked worse than the pan you just pulled. I ended up having to have the entire block dipped and completing machined! You never know until you get inside an engine!!😊
I've taken apart many engines in in my 58 years!
I've NEVER seen that much smoo in a crankcase!
I wonder if this engine is a victim of 10 cans of oil stop leak?
The oil appears to have the consistency of light grease! 😮
i am thinking somebody gave up on changing oil and just kept adding oil when it was low just like an oil change add a quart every so often.
My guess would be neglected dinosaur oil changes.
Add a (lot) of Marvel Mystery Oil to future oil changes?
I agree with you guys, because the engine was leaking oil they just keep topping it up. I done get it, your oil changes in the US are so cheap about half the price in Australia, although our wages are higher, I have a 3 cylinder fiesta and that cost about $280 for an oil change
That's wat non synthetic oil and not changing it often enough does,super sludge
I think the way you show what you're doing as you do it is fantastic! I've seen many work on the same things in this particular video, cause of friends and their street cars, etc... But you, to me, make it look a lot easier than the way I saw them do it. It's relaxing.
DAMN! That thing passed on being lubricated years ago. You never expect to see engine oil replaced with wheel bearing grease.
I would be astonished if that engine can be salvaged economically.
You are a brave man, with a strong stomach!
Instead of using Gasoline to clean parts, Diesel Fuel works pretty well, and is a lot less likely to ignite from the errant spark.
Like to use paint thinner to get parts clean, then brush lacquer thinner on to go after the build on stuff.
Coming across a mess like that once made me start taking the pan off before flipping the engine. I hated dealing with all that crud down in the block and internals. Sometimes an unknown engine turns into a Pandora's Box of surprises. I hope to learn more about the LS engine with your posts.
I never roll an engine upside down before pulling the pan. I don't like the idea of whatever crap that's in the bottom of the pan making it's way back into the block.
I couldn't agree more
There are two plastic pans that are very helpful in my shop. One, plastic cement mixer tray that I get at Lowe’s and two, the busboy tray I get at restaurant supply store. Restaurant supply stores has lots of useful equipment for the shop.
OOOOO busboy tray! Now I have to find a restaurant supply store near me. Thanks for watching & keep wrenching
Water pump bolts work great to pull cam out!
Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying oil additives are bad, but I was just saying the guy told me this happened cause it just sat for years. Thanks for the video Mr Kenny hope everyone had a wonderful Christmas
Put the oil pan back on with a just a few bolts. Rotate the engine back upright. Let it sit for a few days. The oil pan is now your catch basin for all the gunk. Remove oil pan.
Someone tore that thing apart because that crank bolt shoulda been a hell of a lot tighter than that.
Holy crap that’s an insane amount of sludge.
If you're ever looking for a cheaper alternative, for Pig mats, puppy training pads are a great substitute, and they don't leak through. I use them when changing oil, working on my motorcycle, servicing my tractors, gun cleaning, or anything else that can get messy. When you're done, just fold it up and throw it away. 😃👍
My husband really enjoys your videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experiences on youtube. He knows a lot about repairing vehicles but you have shared information that he did not know before. Just subscribed today using my lap top. He watches you on Roku so he could not subscribe from there. Asked me to take care of it.
Good morning Kenny! Hope you had a great Christmas. Have a happy new year!
Very interesting brother Kenny! Your video was well done. Too bad some former owner was not doing their oil and filter changes often enough.
Like how he explains every step he's taking.Easy to follow along.great job.!
I’m glad I stumbled upon your channel. You know your stuff, have a bit of a sense of humor and I just listened/watched you say something about ring gap and nitrous.
Right up my alley!
I have an LM7 in my 2000 Yukon xl that I’ve owned for 20+ years and I have another long block out in the garage that’s been under my bench for a few years. I intended doing a turbo build, picked up the Holley/Hooker LS turbo manifolds and crossover to swap the 5.3 into my 85 Cutlass but I can’t bring myself to replace the big block Chevy conversion I’ve already built that has been sorted out for about 10 years. It is perfect so I’m not going to change it.
My 5.3 will be a spare for my GMC if Mother Nature doesn’t reclaim it to the northeast earth before I need it…
Keep em coming. Love the videos (and the homemade 3/8 drive balancer puller extension)
😉👍
I've saw this before,many years ago though, engine sat for years but had oil in it at one time,lol I was young. The older man building the engine says it was an oil additive that thickened dirty oil lol. STP was used widely back then, so who knows,yet I remember the engine looking great inside 😅😂
Merry Christmas to you Kenny and family.
Hi Kenny, I just found your channel and subscribed. I ran into severe sludge that developed in my 2003 4.8 between one oil change and the next. It turned out that I had a known problem with the heads from a particular supplier which had issues with porosity in the castings which eventually led to cracks forming. That allowed coolant leak through into the oil return holes and right down into the pan.
Hi Kenny. Don't forget to check the pressure relief valve in the bottom of the oil pan you use. Also, there is an upgrade rubber bonnet that covers the top of the outlet from that oil pressure relief that reduces oil aeration and oil consumption.
Good job kenny! I was thinking about doing this and pulling my whole radiator and leaving the block in the truck in my drive way luckily my oil problems are actualy coming from my valley cover and oil sending unit so i dont need to go down that road, after watching you though it looks way easier to just pull the motor instead of struggling on your back and knees
Another great video, it brought me back to my teen years helping my Dad work on engine’s in our garage, thanks Kenny
I appreciate that. Sounds like you got to revisit some good memories. Thanks for watching!
Permanent grease...... Interesting
Not what you want to see when you take the oil pan off.
The motor didnt seize up? Never changed oul and made engine useless?
In '74 I was doing a oil change on a '73 Monte Carlo. Oil was really dirty. Engine was running rough, so changed plugs. Didn't change running. Head mechanic had me pull the valve cover. WOW , a mold of the cover completely encased the rockers. Flushed the engine, added fresh oil and filter ,engine smoothed right up. Customer said he only used 30w nondetergent oil. Lesson learned. I was 19 at the time.
Wow! I bet that was an interesting experience. Thanks for sharing!🔧
You are the new Jed Clampett. You struck tea, Texas T at the bottom of the pan
It probably had Lucus or some other oil additive in it that caused that to happen. Just like the oil filters I believe it was you that showed that issue. I know I am never using any of that crap again unless it's an engine in bad shape and I'm trying to save it for just a bit longer.
Yes it was a mess it showed lack of proper oil changes and non detergent oil usage boil block clean oil passages and check everything over but that's me my opinion on it. You do what you do best have fun with it me personally I would get dirty and have fun doing it.
Why would you turn/leave the motor upside down so all that sludge can drain into the motor? I guess it will clean out in your company’s commercial cleaning machine
I'm not a mechanic, but here in Norway that's no issue i think. Is it diference in fuel and additives? Always followed manufacturer spec and oil maintainance, on big rigs farming equipment and cars.
I find this fascinating, loves your videos. I think you have experience from both worlds
I've seen other people attribute that gel to overuse of additives. Could only be confirmed by analysis, but be leery of marketing claims.
For parts washing like that, use diesel. Less volatile/dangerous, but gloves and Tyvek overalls! Learned the hard way!
My first car, I took the valve cover off and the oil was so solid, it was basically another valve cover.
My mom bought the car from first owner that had used Quaker state since brand new and mom continued to use it.
Needless to say I don’t use Quaker state. Engine only lasted about 170,000. It was a 78’ ford fairmont station wagon with a 302.
good video, hope you had a good Christmas.
Thanks for watching! We did. I hope you did, too!
Crank bolt came out way to easy.
Yeah ,I change my oil and filter every 1000.miles ,but I have 5 trucks 95 f 150 5.0,98 Durango 5.9, 96 f 150 5.8, 03 e 350 5.4, 01 nissan qx4 3.5 im always changin the oil in something, love it love cars and trucks
Its just coincidence that u post 2 videos about the only 2 cars ive had in the past 30 years.
1991 Chevy Cheyenne
1994 Thunder Bird
Water pump bolts work well as a handle to pull the cam out.
Water pump bolts are great for pulling the cam.
There is acid erosion on the surface of that front cam bearing - typical on engines that exceed the oil change interval.
It must be the new oil chemistry that keeps the sludge goopy like that. Back in the day all engines carried sludge but it was hard, like tree bark. It stayed put and didn't really hurt anything.
people that don't change oil , need bus tickets .
I changed my Silverado's oil a few days ago. I might go do it again just because...... LOL
Hopefully that motor was free.
Kenny, am I seeing something you aren't on that cam bearing? On the bottom, left of center about 7 o'clock that bearing didn't look good to me. What am I seeing?
I think you're seeing the seam of the outer bearing shell
Some folks never heard of oil changes. Miracle motor lasted that long. Feel your pain Kenny. 1974 charger 318, same story.
Wow
I sold my 91 Silverado because nobody wanted to or knew how to change my harmonic balancer. I got $400 less selling it but we had it since we bought it in 1991 & it was all stock except the radio. I actually still had the stock lug nuts on it as well until we sold it.
Just one more reason I'll never buy a used modern car. Statistically, NO ONE maintains their vehicle.
I had a sludged engine that the oil was thick and would not drain thru the oil pan plug. I put a heat lamp under the pan and in a day or 2 that sludge drained out of the pan.
Looks like the inside of the engine I rebuilt about 2 years ago that had Kendall oil used in it.
Suddenly I find myself humming the theme song from "The Blob"!
nice engine kenny ...... TAXI .....!!
One of only two times I've ever heard of a slant 6 Chrysler engine that stopped working.
Hey man bought his Dodge Dart with a slant 6 in the early 1970s. At about 84,000 me he could not get it to start and so they pulled it into a local auto service could not even turn the engine with a breaker bar. Attempted to drain the oil pan and about a teacup full of sludge like that leaked out of the oil drain. They called the man and asked him when was the last time he checked the oil, he said he had never checked the oil.
They then asked him last time he changed oil he said it came with oil in it.
Wrenching with Kenny doing a I Do Cars engine dismantle.
I have never seen that much gunk before!
Seen a few of these engine scenarios in my mechanic days! Customers had the nerve to request the Manufacturer replace the engine because it seized up from sludge! Crysler/Jeep said No way!
That's one rusty crusty looking engine. And what a nasty surprise inside that oil pan. Absolutely amazing those cam bearings look so good. It will definitely be interesting to see what the rod and main bearings look like. You may have spoke too soon when you said it won't need to go to the machine shop.
5.3 has a key way in the crank
Get heat fixed?
Quaker State Motor Oil
Someone left the oil changes to their imaginary friend. When I pulled my pan off my 5.3 and my 4.8 for the o ring replacement, they were very clean. I drop in a half a quart of ATF a day before and drive normal before the oil change. 5.3 has 549,000 and the 4.8 has 378.000.
Ya so Kenny, what brand of oil is 50 thousand miles between oil changes?
The condition of the oil was it from not changing it when supposed to or the type of oil?
It would be fun to see what Blackstone would say if you sent a sample of that sludge off to them.
Looks like it says 5.3 right on the front of the cylinder head there !! 😅
My brother had to pull his motor once and it looked just like that and he had bought ths Trans Am new and only used Valvoline oil and changed the oil regularly but I do know he only made short trips in it as the motor rarely got up to a good hot temp soooo?
oil change, we don't need no stinking oil changes! oh dear 🤣🤣🤣
Use diesel instead of gas as a cleaner.
Do the GM LS engines have a problem with sludge ? Or did someone get stupid with maintenance?
Probably the original oil from the factory. Change your oil folks
Shud sayon flywheel side of block wat size engine it is
It may a bit anecdotal of me to say this, but there are a few things I have seen that cause the engine oil to congeal like was shown in the crankcase of the engine in this video. One is clearly engine oil that is not changed often enough., The other is when an engine oil made from crude oil that contains paraffin (non-synthetic Quaker State, Pennzoil both come to mind) is used. With the availability of really good, high quality synthetic engine oils, which are more tolerant of infrequent oil changes, there is no reason for the inside of an engine to end up looking like this one. There might be excuses, bit there certainly is no good reason for it happening. Disgusting...
All that said, Kenny, thank you for making these videos. Despite how many years of experience I have in the auto repair industry I always learn something new, or at the very lease I get affirmation that my background and experience are still viable and of value. Thus, even at 69 years of age I am relevant.
Oil wasn't changed at 5,000 miles....
I always hope people that treat/neglect their vehicles like this engine never have children, changing your oil is like changing a diaper its a dirty job has to be done! if you don't well you get the point.
❤ 👍
it says 4,8 right on the block to your right at 2oclock .
Wow, talk about OEM oil
I wonder why the lifters were nosy!
Wow grease fitting did not leak
Had a friend who sent his crankshaft out to get a keyway cut into it.
Free jelly grease!
The mess in the pan could have been predicted when the valve covers were removed. I wouldn't put this engine in a vehicle w/o a complete rebuild. The bores got to be worn. In the olden days pistons were knurled and oversize rings fitted for a few more miles. I don't see it worth the trouble if you don't rebore.
When I see kind of sludge, I think immediately of excessive wear due to lack of lubrication. Any motor is rebuildable, it is just a matter of how much money you want to spend on parts. Sometimes you are better off just buying a Crate Motor and your guarantee a good outcome.