Code Red !!! Get Me The Parts Cannon, STAT !!!!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
- Easy to use handheld
amzn.to/46nMFrz
Budget friendly, professional style scanner
amzn.to/44iDdUM
Basic Code Reader
amzn.to/3GZFDhT
Blue tooth scan tool
amzn.to/3org3vL
Perfect panel trim tool
amzn.to/40hPshS
Push pin removal pliers
amzn.to/3US2FN7
Excellent beginner plus tool kit
amzn.to/3UY6e4z
Excellent Basic Starter Tool Kit
amzn.to/41JVRn2
Must Have Gearwrench set
amzn.to/3AfZNAc
Power Probe Circuit Tester
amzn.to/3mOrQ6N
Basic Test Light
amzn.to/40mKdNN
@WrenchingWithKenny @SNAFU.performance @traditionovertrend2704 @ktmracingsisters1261 @matersworkshop6123 @MotorMouthRadio
@cruzcorp914 #wrenchingwithkenny #keepwrenching #wesselmotorworks 
Авто/Мото
I had one doing the same thing, after scratching my head for a couple of days I finally got the customer to admit he had changed all of the injectors. The new ones looked identical to the OE, but turns out they had a different flow rate. New OE injectors and it ran perfect.
This was my take on it. Different flow rate some muppet has thrown in because it said "700HP" on the box, and the ECU can't compensate with a low enough duty cycle at idle to get the fuelling right as it warms up.
Wonder when they changed to coils, if they changed the injects, trying to sup up the truck.... keep wrenchen....
@@jeffreiman7466 "I watched a RUclips video that told me that I can save gas and make my engine have +20HP by changing the injectors to these wacky ones." -Crazy Customer
Amazes me the customer couldn't see the correlation between the new injectors & it running like crap
Didn't Ken say it was different color injectors?
Maybe in attempt to get more H.P. he installed injectors with larger flow rate but isn't fessing up.
Runs good when cold but that's the only time it can use the extra gas.
I chased a p-300 code on my 2002 s-10 4.3 for 8 months. I don't ever take my stuff to a shop, but I did on this one. One shop had no idea what the issue was, the other wanted me to pull the heads. Their thinking was I had sticking valves. I didn't believe them, because at 95 MPH you couldn't feel it and sometimes there would be no miss-firing according to my diagnostic tool. It ended up being my crank sensor that I had changed out a couple of months before because of a distributor sync issue. I still had the old crank sensor, and I am still running it today.
I would have loved to see a "buzz" test (injector drop with controlled pulses, and measuring the pressure drop of the fuel rail) between the old and new injectors. Keep wrenching Kenny!
Yeah, this is *_exactly_* what I was thinking...
Mechanic's Mind: "Something failed or broke, right?" (In reality, it's just the customer sabotaging their own car. 😆)
Would have loved to see the current ramps of the injectors, that would have showed any issues with them more thank likely.
I spent 17 years in GM dealers. Some things just cannot be explained. Sometimes you just don't know.
I would have suspected injectors but not for the reason you found, but it makes sense. The emf from the cheap coils taking out the injectors is a truly weird one.
I though injectors too - there's just not many things that would make the vehicle run rich. As for all (or most) of them being bad, that happens when someone swaps them out with low quality or incorrect parts, just like with e.g. plugs or coils. And I suppose maybe a fuel problem, such as a torn filter letting dirt past, could foul all the injectors such that the thing runs rich.
Same thing with my sons 2005 chevy 4x4, one bank running rich, replaced all 8 injectors right up front. In all fairness to Kenny, people all over the forums were saying to never waste your time with one, just replace 'em all.
I'm thinking more it was wrong size injectors installed but nobody's talking.
Early Bosch injectors that gm used in the camero and firebird with the 5.7 v8 were suseptible to the coating on the coil windings being damaged by Ethanol fuel. Back then in the late 80s, the percentage of alcohol to fuel was all over the place, gm had a test kit to test percentage of alcohol in fuel. Percentages of 10%, even 15% were possible. And since fuel flowing over the winding was how the solonoids were cooled, the high ethanol concentration would eat the protective coating off the copper windings, causing a short. We had to check the percentage of ethanol in the fuel then ohm each injector. And back then, injectors were expensive
A Full Broadside from the Parts Cannons
This was such a weird one... But it finally running as it should !!
When you run something till it stops that is what happens it ruins everything down the line
So does the shop change the customer for all the parts that were installed but maybe not needed to fix.
I have been asked in parking lots and gas stations why I still drive a 44 year old truck, besides the fact I pay less than 30 bucks a month for insurance and I never have to deal with things like this, no computer, is a huge reason. Where I live things don't rust, they get sun faded and sand blasted, I don't worry about door dings, scratches and other stuff that people fret about with new cars.
Wow that would drive most people nuts.
We never stop learning and these videos of yours are a gold mine of information. Many years ago, over here in the UK, I had a small, battered little car that was my only transport. An issue started where it wouldn’t idle at all. It would run if you pulsed the gas but as soon as you lifted your foot it would stall out. After a full set of spark plugs, plug wires and three days worth of swearing I went to clean the rotor arm and I found the issue. On the carb there was an electric fuel cut off valve. The single, small wire that operated it had come off. I nipped the spade connector to tighten it and refitted it. Started the car and it idled smooth and even.
Must be a slow day... btw. There are 2 females that work at my shop including myself
Emf makes sense initially fuel contamination came to mind . Emf could have leaked out of the coils and some how affected the coils on the injectors.
Kenny we've all been there. Like you I have to find out when we're wrong. Thanks for sharing.
What about Coolant Temp Sensor ? tells temp to computer to operate fuel
Love issues like this. Great learning opportunity
Awesome Video Kenny and these are Gold for us as it is unusual for the experts to be stumped and we all can learn from videos like this. It helps to keep an open mind and be methodical, going step by step eliminating possibilities until you get to the really "Out-There" ones. Thanks so much for hanging in there and for bringing us along.
I had the same thing happen to me with a mercury mariner that a car lot sold to someone I know and they put cheapest of everything they did to it and I’ll tell you it drove me crazy trying to get it right
Good work Kenny. I'm Learning a lot on each project you work on I will keep wrenching. See you soon
I've got a 4.6 Crown Vic doing the exact same thing with original coils and injectors.
I'm not sure that it is a EMI issue. Judging by the cheap coils, I suspect that they replaced the injectors at the same time that may even say Motorcraft that are counterfeit. I even received counterfeit Autolite sparks plugs from Amazon. They worked for awhile then started misfiring. It took me some time to figure out what the problem was.
My Saturn was stuck in open loop oh in about 2015 maybe 2014. I got online because forums were still around back then and other folks were saying they had the same problem and the ECTS caused it. A $20 coolant temp sensor had failed causing inconsistent enough readings for the PCM to leave it too rich to run. Of course the PCM didn’t throw a code for it but it resolved with a new ECTS. I realize yours isn’t the ECTS just saying that’s what my problem was.
Really enjoy your videos as it's like watching a suspense mystery movie,
I was almost screaming in my head ECT sensor until you switched the injectors and pointed out the orientation position of those low quality coils,, I totally agree that it's more than likely that's what happened to the injectors getting some frequency interference causing them to go bad,, awsome video!
Shut up!! Danger voltage!!! Omg sooo funny!!!
Well as an x electronic tech you could be correct on this in my opinion here , I also as a shade tree mechanic would have looked at the evap system not closed but constantly pumping into the intake, I had a very similar experience with a GM 3.8 that did virtually the same thing , I don't have a scanner but did remove the evap hose from the intake and the issue cleared so that told me evap issues so new pump and silanoid.
It's probably the same deal as someone saying that ultrasonically cleaning fuel injectors can ruin the windings inside the fuel injectors, it's possible that the EMF from the ignition coils has ruined the fuel injectors in that Ford F150 truck.
They look like the fuel injectors that my great uncles stepdaughters Ford EL Falcon has in it which runs the Australian built 4 litre "Thriftpower" inline six.
Once Ford released the AU Falcon in 1998 they ran the EV6 type of fuel injectors on that engine which are interchangeable with the old EV1 style apparently.
The EV1 fuel injectors in my Holden VL Commodore were the older pintle type of fuel injector, they were the salmon coloured Hitachi fuel injectors which tended to wear out & leak at the pintles at about 300,000 kilometres & gave driveability issues such as hesitation & flat spotting when the engine was cold or hard starting when the engine was warm & has sat for a while.
That was on the Nissan RB30E engine .
I know in the electrical trade I have worked for a company who has been apprenticing more women !
any time i see "no-code" driveability issues, or "wtf is going on ??" issues, it always seems to be in the fuel circuit. anyhow, great work brother !! 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
The ignition coils deffinitely create a electromagnetic field. Inside injectors are solenoids (which are similar to the ignition coil in that they operate with a magnetic field) inside them that open and close the valve for gas to flow into the cylinder. The magnetic field created by the ignition coils could have induced a current in the injectors and done some damage. I think you were spot on! That is basically an uncontrolled version of wireless charging! You should have compared the resistance on the injectors when they were cold vs. hot and seen if there was a drop in resistance. I suspect there might have been at least a small change in resistance, allowing more current to pass through the injector, possibly keeping it open for longer? I am just speculating as I only looked at the internal structure of injectors, really I have no clue how injectors work. I never would have suspected something like that to cause a problem.
When you were describing the way it ran it told me it was running rich from something. Like having the choke 3/4 on , when it starts its good when cold but as ot warms ( which is pretty fast ) it doesnt need that richness.
You pretty much have two coils right next to each other, there has got to be some inductance going on there, in this case ' big time '.
Even with quality coils it probably could use a bit of a ' shield ' in between them.
Ah, give me the old days! In the '70s a buddy had me look at his '71 Chevelle with a cammed 402. The cam was a bit much for the street so it was hard to diagnose. If you laid into it, it literally fell on it's face. Finally traced it down to a bad set of sparkplug. New set cured it.
Great video brother Kenny. I always get something out of your videos...thank you again!
Coolant temperature probe? Nope wrong. Good job Kenny
Yes, I did learn something, Kenny. Thanks for taking the time to share your videos. ❤
Also, when I see problems like this come up, i wonder if nowadays auto techs need to have a psychologist on retainer to help maintain their diagnostic sanity.
You pays for what you get.
You gets what you pay for.
Kenny's new tune-ups now include OEM injectors. 😂🤣
Depending how long the vehicle sits ethanol ruins injectors , I have also had injectors that ohm good but spray pattern / needle was messed up ,,, I can usually unfree the ones that are bound up with varnish but can’t never seem to cure the ones that sit to long with ethanol or vp fuel ,,,,
Our shop uses a autool and having it has been a huge help ,
We had a Nissan Pathfinder with very similar issue ,,, caught it pretty late , what happen was the injectors we replaced were actually bad out the box so never assume new parts are good , they worked but flowed way more than the should of ,,, after getting the injectors at a good balance where they flowed equal ,,, the vehicle still missed behave , what happened was running rich for to long clogged up the catalytic converters
It's obvious. The lethal voltage killed the injectors. 😂
Thanks for the logical journey on this unusual fault. Unlike many doing automotive fault-finding videos, you have the much appreciated knack of keeping it simple.
Thanks Kenny!
I had coil trouble on my 2001 F150 4.6L. My mechanic would change the bad one each time. After too many times and $$$, I bought a set of 8 Motorcraft and changed them all myself. I found the trouble then. Mechanic was putting them in dry and when I hit deep puddles too fast the water would go in the plug wells and I found the telltale zapping lines on the boots. Luckily my coils came with new boots and I dielectric greased them during installation. Never a problem again. 307,000 miles and going strong. Yippee!
…by the way, I slow way down for the deep water too…
I could have helped you out on this one. Open/closed loop operation isn't always fully understood. Its actually a very good diagnostic tool. Here's what it really means. Your O2 sensors and cats don't work unless they're above a certain operating temp. Fuel trims are set to shoot for a 14.7:1 air/fuel burn ratio to achieve best emission performance. Since your O2 sensors don't work cold, they send bad data to the PCM. This is why you need open loop operation. When in open loop, your PCM disregards the information it receives from the O2 sensors. Otherwise, you would get a check engine light every time you start your car. Only when operating temp is achieved does your PCM move into closed loop and starts taking data from the O2 sensors. (That's why modern O2 sensors are heated. It gets you to closed loop faster.)
Knowing how and when your O2 sensors can be bypassed is a great diagnostic tool. Under normal conditions, open loop can only be achieved 2 ways. When your motor is cold, or when you are running at wide open throttle. You 100% confirmed your issue was OL/CL related when you made the comment on the motor running OK at WOT. Knowing this, you can eliminate a huge amount of potential issues, including the PCM. Both your fuel injectors and coils get power directly from the battery, and your PCM grounds them to fire. You proved the PCM was OK when running in open loop. At that point, your problem can only be something that would cause your O2 sensors to give out of spec data, or the O2 sensors themselves to be a problem. Since the problem occurs on both banks, this also helps you narrow things down. Given all the information in your video, I believe you didn't have any bad parts, but you had the wrong parts. Either the injectors or coils. What happens all the time with aftermarket parts, is they sometimes list the parts to work in vehicles they don't. Maybe they were the correct parts for the same motor in a different car, or with different options. Everything was clearly working in open loop. Only when the PCM tried to get to 14.7:1, did the problem occur.
Its very easy to misdiagnose issues like this as the PCM. Happens all the time. That's why its so hard to find them. We've all done it. The upside is you'll have no problem getting rid of the used PCM you bought. Or, if you work on a lot of Fords, just keep it. Ford is good that way. As long as you get the correct part number, a used module is fine. It can be programmed to a new vehicle.
Excellent explanation of OL/CL diagnostics. Since the owner admitted to replacing the fuel injectors I'd be willing to bet that those were the parts causing the issue. The idea that the coils 'did something' to those injectors is conjecture. Thanks for sharing your experience with the group. I have found crowd sourcing hard to diagnose issues the best way to solve issues. One of the best ways besides comment sections like these for me has been the Identifix Direct-Hit database and various message boards where experienced techs hang out. We should compile a list of resources for wrenches to get crown sourced answers to tough diags.
Thanks for your contribution.
@@mod_incllc3235- it seems like this was from the era where Ford had switched to coolant temp being inferred from a CHT sensor, so I thought something in that circuit, or the PCMs perception of it, was the real issue - always thinking the engine was cold. Perhaps the noisy ignition coils double tripped the injectors, so they - in effect - fired twice per ignition cycle? This mattered a bunch more as the engine warmed up (O2 sensors readings approached closed loop operation value) vs a cold start.
@@mod_incllc3235 Thanks. Any experienced tech will tell you most of your education comes from higher level techs helping out when you need it. Someone was always there for me, so its only right I give back.
@@dennislyon5412 Open and closed loop are emissions related conditions. The PCM is looking for the O2 sensors and cats to reach a temperature where they are hot enough to work, at which point the data from the O2's can be used to set fuel trims. A temperature sensor fault is more in the other direction. The PCM primarily uses them to monitor overheated conditions. The main concern with a temp sensor is to protect the engine. Its more likely to see the PCM go into limp mode for a concern like this.
If you want to learn more about topics like this, I would recommend a youtube channel. I understand this stuff, but I'm not the best at explaining things. Look for Scanner Danner's channel. When it come to details and explaining every last one of them, he's the best. There's a few other great channels, as well, but for basic OBD2 engine management information, SD is the best teacher. At first it may seem overwhelming, but keep in mind that OBD2 is mostly universal. For example, if you are trying to diag a fuel trim issue on the F150 in the video, one of the parameters you would look at is O2 sensor output voltage. Voltage changes depending on how hot the sensor is. Anything above 450mv is a rich condition and anything under 450mv is a lean condition. And that's what makes OBD2 so powerful. 450mv is the standard for every vehicle made after 1996. If you are looking at the O2 sensors on a Chevy or BMW, its all the same, including the related DTC's.
Love listening to your analyzes on every video and absorbed a lot of learning from you👍👍👍 Thank you, Sir!!!
Junk coils proved to be lethal for injectors.
Need a small spark gap with cheap coils , we dont want the spark to jump anywhere else or there shot immediately
Thanks for the videos just had you headlight video pop up again and was wondering about an update to the lemon juice and baking soda after 10 months
Great informative story, love your channel!!!!!!!!
Jeepers, Kenny, I got a migraine just listening to you descsribe the head banging you had to do on this one. To be a mechanic I guess you have to be part detective, part phsychic and part exorcist. Good sleuthing, brother. Now can you figure out what women are really thinking? On a different tangent, I'm really jealous of your beautiful clear, blue sky. Here in southern British Columbia it's been nothing but forest fire smoke and it is difficult. Almost enough to make one look forward to winter. Cheers, love your channel.
I always learn something off your videos Mr Kenny this was a good one
The difference in resistance in the coils indicates either being overwound with the proper gauge wire or wound with the same number of turns with smaller gauge wire. Either would cause mismatches effecting the performance of the circuit. Considering the source, I would guess that they were wound with the correct number of turns with lighter gauge wire in order to save $$ for the manufacturer. It would probably only be a few cents or less per unit. But by volume it would add up.....so bottom line will out....no consideration for the end user just the bank account of the producer..just imho.
No offence, but you can say all of that, but you have no way of knowing if its true. Going by the video, its clearly an open/closed loop related issue. This also means its an OBD2 issue. For the problem in the video, every vehicle made after 1996 will work the same way. All you need to solve this particular issue is the generic data stream from a $50 scanner. Providing you understand how the system works. It has nothing to do with the manufacturer trying to save money.
I'm dealing with an almost identical situation with a 1990 f150 with a 302. It runs great when cold. Once it warms up, it switches from limp mode to running normal
Read the other post I just made. There may be some info in it that can help you out.
I don't know if this makes any difference, but I know that ferrous metals lose their magnetism or ability to be magnetized when they heat up. Perhaps the fuel injectors were made of the wrong material on the pole that gets lifted or old when the injector coils are magnetized. Maybe it happens when the truck heats up. Maybe it has to do with the EMF from the coils as well I'm not sure.
Very interesting review of your process. Thanks, Kenny!
They did say "lethal" cheap parts used in critical areas is asking for trouble. It makes you question your sanity dealing with crazy issues. It also ends up a losing money job. There is no way you can get enough money for the hours invested.
Great catch that was a mind boggler for sure thanks for sharing the story
Great video, tough to follow other people's work sometimes, especially when they use junk and or incorrect parts.
Where is that sign? "Tried to fix it yourself? Our labor rate is now $500/hr."
Cheap coils are likely the culprit. Seeing this video is almost a year old, just something to keep in mind for future reference:
Cheap coils often have the returns for both windings sharing a common ground. That's not good, because any other components near enough, sharing a common ground with the control windings, will be at risk of carrying some of the high current returned from ignitions. Older vehicles often have the coil control sharing a common ground with the injectors... so that's a ticking bomb when the secondaries are not isolated.
Bonus problem(s): If your motor loses chassis ground and you're running cheap coils. You could end up replacing every module in the vehicle when that happens.
On the injectors the owner may have ran some bad gas through the injection system ! A friend of mine got a tank of gas from a gas station and his truck started running terrible come to find out the gas station had diesel mixed in with their gas by mistake ! Not saying this is what caused your customers problem but I know my friend had to have his tank drained and the fuel lines fleshed along with tge injectors ! Stay Safe Kenny love your videos ! I hate to say it but honest mechanics such as yourself are hard to find and getting harder !
The PCM ALWAYS wants to have 14.7 to 1 and keeps adjusting to be there . I am surprised the fuel trim didn't show negative numbers . Did you notice a wider pulse width on the injectors after it warmed up and the coils were possible applying " lethal voltage " to them and dumping fuel into the cylinders ? Buying garbage parts applied lethal voltage to his wallet !😄
Will see it with the Accel and MSD coils too
RF from the wire coils inside the injectors. Magnetic interference. Ford especially used to use a metal wrap shield (grounded braided wire) over important wires like injector harness etc due to RF concerns from their ignition systems. (specifically mid 90's )
The coils' voltage was lethal to other engine components! That sticker wasn't just marketing.
Don't worry I have days like that I should have listened to my mother she said go into the Air Force 😂
...Kenny....maybe a flow rate test on individual injectors using a bi-directional scanner might have shown a problem?......I dunno..... 🙂
Thank you, I enjoy the more diagnostic videos a little better.
I have seen where all the injectors were damaged by water contamination in the fuel because they poured old contaminated gas into the gas tank. The tank was empty and they did get it to start. Turned it off and then it sat for 2 years and the water in the bad fuel sat in the fuel rail and it rusted internally and then trying to start it the 2 years later all the rust plugged up the injectors.
I would have questioned the place the customer was buying their fuel but after listening to your explanation I would also have questioned the injectors as thry have different pulse ratings but I would have pulled them & cleaned them which would have been a lot of work for no result.Cheers mate.(On another note when I do major head work I always clean the injectors it's not hard just geyt a straw off any cleaner in a can heat shrink it to the injector size & the straw grab a 9 volt battery connect wires to it put the injector in a vice connect up the can of cleaner & connect the battery whilst spraying the can , you can pulse them by tapping one wire on/off at short intervals works great.Hope this isn't too long & helps the DIYers.
Mutual inductance? Could be. ? All closely parallel with the other devices ! And when engine is not totally warmed up, it was good until it wasn't ? But parts marked AutoCraft or whatever the scam is, reminds me of a story our plant Mgr. At Western Electric told us about Japan after WW-2 instituted a new city named USA, missing the periods, so they could put out cheap stuff with the name USA on them! Tricky no?
I just gave my old Toyota to one of my nephews who needed a car but couldn’t find one. I don’t know how it happened but the muffler fell off so I had the car looked at (20 years old) mechanic said we can’t weld it I said just replace it, mechanic said it needs the whole thing from the engine back.
I said well I’m okay with that better replace the whole pipe from manifold back no surprises and the kid won’t be killed by carbon monoxide if it leaks somewhere else. $1600.00 CHA,CHING! I sure was glad it’s just a new exhaust system! I can just imagine what you said when you presented your bill to the guy with the cheap car parts!!!
Engine trouble is expensive and cheaply made parts sound good but you can’t expect high quality from something like the coils prices all 8 coils were cheaper than one medium quality or good quality coil??
Holy cow!
Why don't do you have your own workshop. I ran somebody's workshop for 15 years, then went out on my own (daunting), never looked back. Use your abilities for you. Enjoy you posts and passion.
Thankyou.
Thank you.
I had a 06 f150 lariat. The coilpacks went bad. I bought a set from Summit Racing. I had good luck with them.
this is one for ivan and his oscilloscope.
Injectors can ohm out good, but doesn’t mean they’re not leaking. Could’ve verified a fuel pressure drop and then pulled the rail out to see if they were leaking.
Hi, I had a very similar problem with my '99 Mazda B3000 (made by Ford). The engine performance and fuel mileage slowly degraded, to the point where I was getting less than 10 MPG and could barely climb interstate hills (along I80 in Iowa). I replace the Coil Pack (not Coil On Plug), Plugs and Plug wires (no help). From a cold start, things seemed OK, for the first few miles (minutes), then stuttering at below 2000 RPM and low power. I had misfires, mainly on a single cylinder. I pulled misfiring plug and it was fuel wet and badly sooted up, other plugs were also sooty. I ordered a complete set of 'rebuilt' Denso Multi-port fuel injectors (same as the originals) from a reputable rebuilder and replaced them all. The problem went away, I was getting over 16 MPG on E85 and 18 MPG with E15, average (about the same as before). I have over 200K on the vehicle and the original injectors appeared to be 'original', to the vehicle. As to your theory, cheap COPs (Coil On Plugs), damaging fuel injectors with EMF, I think it more likely that the injector just 'wore out' or were contaminated some how, to make them fail, after warming up. My coil pack is located on the opposite side of the engine, from the badly misfiring original fuel injector, an EMF strong enough to damage the fuel injector would have probably incinerated me and all of the electronics and wiring. When logic and troubleshooting fails, sometimes you just gotta bust out the 'Parts Cannon' and (BOOM!!!). ;-)
I really, really look forward to your videos. I have a technical mind and and vey inquisitive. The way you progress though the fault finding process is a joy. You explain things clearly and without BS. Have you every considered teaching? Your theory of EMI from those cheap coils is a sound one. When I am tracking down EMI, I use an old AM radio tuned to static. When you get close to the EMI source you can sure tell. I use that method to find bad ‘wall worts’, you know plug in transformers. When they go bad they can knock out your WiFI. Thanks again.
He is teaching, me and you for a start
@@argondemad8024 But you know what I meant.
Now an oil change is needed.
I found the same issue was caused by moisture in fuel that froze in the injectors and damaged them, 1998 F150 with a 5,4ltr.
This is a weird one. Of course I'd of been wrong but since after all of the testing nothing really stood out I'd have zeroed in on something that effects the fuel mixture for all cylinders like the Mass Air Flow or throttle body and the PCM. EMF fields from those injectors wouldn't even have entered my brain. Thanks for the new knowledge.
That’s why I wear a garlic necklace when I drive
You had another truck a few months ago with those same coils and you replaced them I believe and that was the issue. Was a few months ago one of the first videos I watched of yours.
Definite head scratcher.
Wish you had a pulse width wave pattern to show, ( may have not shown any problem, but might of shown something)
You didn't mention if there was any difference from the new injectors to the old injectors that were in the truck. Were they different in color( maybe an indicator of different size injector, high fuel cc output)?
If the injectors wave pattern were scoped ( with old coils), it may have shown if there was an influence of induced voltage to the injectors by the magnetic field from the coils.
Not sure how much damage can be cause by induced voltage, as injectors are simply solenoids controling a pintle for fuel metering.
Good job! You still found the issue and repaired it.
Still knowing exactly why would satisfy curiosity.
One to put down to experience 🤨
Anything is possible with all of the electronics on vehicles today
Contaminated fuel/dirt can cause injectors not to close properly - giving over rich mix. Ultra sonic cleaning may fix if so. Or just cheap copy/pirate injectors that don't work. I bought some cheap eBay injectors - just so I could get my oem ones serviced. eBay injectors looked oem in every respect. Car started and ran fine for a couple of minutes - then hydro locked - 1 of the injectors failed open. Building a replacement (upgraded) motor I got a second hand manifold with injectors - car would not start, none of the injectors were injecting at all - oem and low mileage but sitting on the shelf in the manifold for a few years = dead.
I seem to remember that you did put out a video previously explaining this truck. You actually showed the "lethal" coils and showed the price on Amazon for the set vs. one O.E. coil.
Would have been interested to see an injector pulse test on all the injectors
Nice one kenny😊
I had a 2005 5.4 ford e350 did the same.. installed everything new including a OEM pcm .. and nothing, turned out to be clogged cats.. removed and replaced and ran like a champ from there on..
I own a shop in Mississippi and I have had a fuel pump chew up on the inside and stop up the inside of the injectors on all injectors sounds close to what you got there
Have hurd of a green carbine belt causing static field interference with a under hood computer modules
Crazy. Do the reverse w the injectors...put the 'bad' ones in the other truck and run it.
An emf shield can de made with a sheet of tin foil grounded with alligator clips leads.
Hadda do one once. Messy, but effective.
Cheers.
EMI/RFI can cause really weird issues. I agree the coils are probably the culprit. Keep the good stuff coming Kenny.
Yes, it can. But I don't see how that could ruin the injectors. They're just coils of wire. If the voltage is jumping over, I'd think you'd take out the driver before damaging the coil. I think more likely they were replaced by the customer or another shop and they were just junk. If they cheaped out on the coils, you know they would cheap out on the injectors. Then they go "can't be the injectors, they're new".
@@russellhltn1396 hey I have another theory too. The spark plugs were also changed with some 💩 ones and that's why they were fouled. 😆 (Probably the wrong gap, or maybe the wrong spark plug entirely.) 3 things wrong by a customer doing stupid stuff = there's probably additional problems that you can't see. 😆
Kenny I have a 2002 Ford F-150 with a 4.6 L engine and I never had that problem. It is so good to know. My truck has 174,000 plus miles on it. I'll keep wrenching.
really like your content and your problem solving in your videos. Could you post tool link again for half size metric socket set please?
That was an interesting find. Great work.👍thanks for sharing.
Isn’t there a part number on the injectors? That would have been my thought to check if they were OEM or not. Nice video.
I wonder if you could have used an Injector timing tool to check the flow rate of those injectors, worse case, get 1 new one and put that in and check the flow of the new one to compare to the others, it might not prove that the coils did it but you would be on the right track.
May be injectors designed for larger engines and simply re-branded?
My money is on fuel additives eroding the injectors, some people load up on that any time a drivability issue arises. Put a bunch in an empty tank, let it sit in the injectors a few months, and goodbye correct dimensions.