Toyota Towed In for a "No Start" ...
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- Опубликовано: 3 авг 2023
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As soon as you mentioned, ‘old time horn button’ I started chuckling because I knew where this was going.
Been an ASE tech for 42 years. A lot of people don’t know that trick with the battery cables ( I usually pull both cables just because it makes me more comfortable) we use to call it a hard reset. It’s even in many mfg repair manuals. It’s most effective when using a jump wire to connect the disconnected cables together and let it sit for 10 or 15 minutes. What it will do is clear the memories in the computers ( think of it like bad habits it’s learned). The car will usually run poorly for a few test drives as it relearns things like fuel mixture, timing, idle speeds, etc. And yes like you I’ve hated and removed so many of those aftermarket alarms, nothing but trouble. An easy trick to bypass an aftermarket alarm to get home is locate the added starter cutoff relay and jump the two heavy output wires. Even something as simple as a heavy straight pin pushed through both output wires will do. I’ve rescued a few customers that way. 😂😂😂
Right before every shop had a scanner for those resets.
I always give at least 5 minutes to let everything discharge.
I seen I sign one time at a junk yard beside a gate that said don't even think about parking here. It works because I was about to park there until I read the sign.
Hey buddy, you don't need to apologize to us when there is a break in the video like when you've gotta talk to someone cause we don't see that and its not like the video jumps around and doesn't make sense .. it's all good !! 😊
Ya or we’ll have to apologize for dropping out for 5 min to view an ad
I've fixed countless no start vehicles plagued with aftermarket alarms that people didn't know they had.😂
I know how You feel. Hate when some numbnut puts on currentthieves instead of doing a good job. We can hear Your frustration. Great job as always!
When people did drive in my house, we usually had junk cars, what we could get cheap, I didn't and still don't mind the work. I have never once seen an aftermarket alarm put in that looked semi professional, all a complete hacked mess, and I agree with those scotch lock splicers, I have never seen them used for anything where it didn't eventually cause a problem. I will not use them for anything. I do enough electronics work where I have numerous other options available that are so much better.
i have one of those anti-theft removable chips on my wife's 2001 Ford Escape. If you hit it with your knee the car will not start and you have to push it back in. The irony is the car is well past the theft danger stage. Anti-theft devices and lock out are what made car jackings popular.
Appreciate the information about the little trick.
I can tell you nearly all of the under-dash wiring burn jobs I worked on, which often required replacing an entire main harness, was due to someone buying an upgraded stereo and trying to install it themselves. "Oh, you mean the black wire was not for power?" heh heh... It was amazing how many times folks would tap into the unprotected side of a fuse to tap into switched power, and when a power wire was grounded the entire harness would end up becoming a co-mingled mess of burned and melted wires and insulation in a single glob. The lucky ones had insurance where the car would be totaled (burned to the ground due to no effective fusing). Only once did I even attempt to repair such a badly damaged main harness, and only because the customer had no insurance other than minimum liability insurance on an older Ford LTD (this was back in the mid 70s), and he did not have the money for a new harness. I felt badly for him, so I did the best I could to sort out the various wires, and used electrical tape to re-insulate all the melted insulation exposing bare wires. For the wire that carried the grounded power circuit, which was the one that ruined the rest of the wires, I was able to remove the old wiring and ran a new parallel wire. The new stereo was still functional, so I wired everything up for the guy. I was shocked to see every electrical system worked perfectly once I was done. I really expected to have some hidden cross-circuit shorting somewhere. But, even the factory cruise control worked, (as did the new stereo). The customer ended up being able to pay for all the labor involved, and even offered me a tip, which I knew was heartfelt, but also painful for him. So, I declined the offer to get a tip, and told him to just get a new toy for his son who was with him at the time. I got so lucky to having no electrical issues after cobbling that mess all back together...
this trick works on Volkswagens
The beauty of Toyotas are how simple they are. To complicate it with aftermarket anti-theft system is so counterproductive.
I'm not a mechanic, but I have had to use mechanics at various times. Cars today, utilize computers to operate the car. Unfortunately I believe that most mechanics are not too good when it comes to fixing wiring problems. Especially when the problem involves computer wiring. It's good to see a mechanic that is very capable when dealing with wiring cables. If you ever migrate to the San Francisco Bay Area let me know. Good mechanics are in short supply.
Scotchlok connectors. Favourite item of bodgers. Total googats.....
Nice video, you are good with the wiring. Experience rules!
Good evening Mr Kenny hope y'all had a great Friday, hope y'all got most of your moving done
The horn works that was great
lolol the infamous "push start installation" I guess somebody got their car "repaired" in my neighborhood
At about 12:00 i like the bungee cord battery hold down. This is a car from the ghetto.
I don’t know about your area Kenny, but 1) here in Colorado mechanics don’t touch a car for anything under $1,000 and 2) you’re extremely brave for tackling that electrical hack job. You saved that customer from junking what otherwise seems to be an ok little car 👍🏻
For a good mechanic like him this is childs play.
Butt splices ... NOT! I have found on Amazon some splices that are heatshrink with solder inside. Stick the strippedends of the wires in and heat it. The solder melts, the heatshrink shrinks and squeezes the molten solder into the wires. Decent solder job and excellent heatshrink in one shot. Gotta make sure the wires are clean and shiny though, it is a solder job.
you love that word bananas
Yup! Bananas BANANAS! It reminds me of when my girls were young & obsessed with Gwen Stefani 😃 thanks for watching 🔧
Gotta live the battery hold down!
It'll hold until heat and sulfuric acid spray get to it.
Back in 2015, I had a dirty job so I needed a beater car. Found an exceptional '88 Honda Accord Coupe. Seller told me not to mess with the aftermarket remotes; he did once and then had trouble starting the car.
Well, I did, but somehow I got the car to start. The next time I wasn't so lucky. Loose battery negative cable caused the aftermarket alarm to defeat the ignition switch. Couldn't reset it.
With the sun going down and a coworker holding my flashlight, I set to work trying to figure out what needed bypassing. I started by unplugging the alarm module.
My coworker suggested that I try the key. I figured, NO EFFIN' WAY, but it was getting cold as the sun set so I gave it a shot.
It worked! I never did another thing to that, just zip tied everything up under the dash and left it just like that until that car met its fate by way of a deer.
this is two days in a row one of your shorts (well, short to ME, anyway, not those 1 minute blurbs) has explained a quirk in one of my older vehicles that have since gone to the junkyard. and now I know what to look for as to the infamous "scotch locks", which everyone has discussed and complained about but I've never actually seen before. most of what you've covered has been the little quirks I've had to deal with in used vehicles over the years (and mostly from the same era, to boot)
In your country (& mine in the metropoliton areas) the best alarm is a manual gearbox LMAO.Cheers.
Yeah, my dad used to say (Chrysler mechanic, 44+ years) If the factory left it off they had a reason.
I would like to see Kenny's Opinion about the New tech Solder Stick method.
You cut and strip like a normal crimp connection, but instead of Crimping, you use a heat gun that melts the solder ball, shrinks the tubing, and shrinks the waterproof sealant on either side of the solder. It looks good and I've ordered a set to try.
They are my goto and have been for a few years now.
I have used some of those low temp solder butt connectors, and have had good luck with them. Even though the plastic tubing is supposed to be heat shrink material I will use conventional shrink wrap (marine with adhesive inside the tubes) to help ensure a solid connection that is not prone to become corroded. My first time I did that was when I spliced a Neutral Safety Switch from a Ford C4 into a pigtail for a Ford AOD transmission when I swapped said AOD into our 1973 Mach 1. The AOD swap turned out really good, wonderful in fact. I recorded the entire swap to AOD and have a series of RUclips videos showing the process. One of the videos showed the NSS splicing at:
ruclips.net/video/zzDmFjFfT-A/видео.html
In its description for that video I provide where I got my parts from for the AOD pigtail. I do like those low temp solder/heatshrink butt connectors. They have worked out great for the things I work on.
Some years back I'd seen an equivalent of those used at a military electronics manufacturer. They were great for coax cables where you wanted to bring the shield out to a pigtail. I think we called them solder ferrules, or similar. Way too expensive for commercial or public use at the time, I'm so glad the price has dropped to the point where everyone can use them.
@@gilberthale7777I would have loved to have an automatic overdrive transmission in the '71 Mustang I had. It would have helped the MPG numbers considerably!
My buddy had the same car way back, just all of a sudden wouldn't start. What we found was to signal right and then turn the ignition on. I think that was the original way of starting the car with that alarm system. I've heard sometimes it's high beams + ignition.
Those are actually called T-taps but they work the same way as a Scotchlock.
They're better than Scotchlocks. Scotchlocks slice into the copper, a quality T-tap will only cut the insulation but not the copper. My biggest qualm with T-taps is they make bulky messy wiring connections with the tap coming out at 90°
I put one in a good number of years ago, because otherwise your car will be stolen. Now it went into a repair shop after it got into an accident, and my friend, who's car it was, forgot to tell them about how to disarm this. After 2 weeks he collected, and found they had been pushing the vehicle up a 2 flight ramp every day, because they had called an automotive electrician out, and he could not figure out the immobiliser. He got in, and started it, and they could not figure out how, because we had discarded the reed switch commonly used, as thieves simply went around with a strong magnet off a broken speaker to try to find them, and instead had a hard to press switch hidden under the carpet in the tunnel. Immobilier itself I used the full 2m of loom it came with, and matched the original tape used on the loom, and cut and pliced, soldered connections all round, into the main loom near fuse box, and simply taped this extra wire into the loom with matching black tape, all the way to the passenger side kick panel, where the control box vanished into a hole in the frame, and was held up there with some foam wrap, and looked like a factory installed loom and module. By me you cannot insure a car unless it comes with a security system, unlike the USA, and even a 1980 Toyota Corolla had to have a minimum spec system. You do not have the easy to steal Hyundai and Kia issue at all, simply because the insurance companies will not finance such a vehicle, so all come with a decent immobiliser.
Though if it is over a certain price, or is one of the top 10 all time stolen ones, which includes the Toyota pick up, all variants, any 1 ton pick up, all larger Toyota sedans, and the biggest seller, VW, you are required to put in at least one tracking device, and often you will get companies putting in at least 3 of them.
Antitheft systems are real cool on cars that already have antitheft
What I love are these cars that I've got from auction that have all this GPS crap on them so if you don't make your car payment they can shut off your car. You end up with a rats nest of crap you have to take out.
100 % agree about the scotch locks.
Have to ask if you've ever tried the newer but connectors that have the low temp solder and shrink wrap ?
You still crimp them I think but next time I do something inside or out going to try them.
3:00 Wait, when you said they wired it to the starter, I thought you mean to the starter relay. 😆 You mean literally to the starter itself? 😆 😆 😆
@6:30 love that technical term for inferior quality wiring connections. 😂. I’ve heard that where I live for many years.
As being a audio installer I have dealt with this a lot its the stater kill part of the alarm 2 ways to do this you can remove the system or find the wire that operates the starter kill it's usually cut in half going to the alarm you can put it back together and that usually stops this problem
I had to bypass the car alarm/engine immobilizer in my great uncles stepdaughters 1997 model Ford EL Falcon (Australian built car) because the engine intermittently stalled to the point that it would stall every time the gear selector was placed into drive.
She got it towed to my dads place where I totally bypassed the immobilizer unit because it was causing high resistance in the switched power to the ignition system & ECU.
Someone did a Home job 25 years prior to me fixing it last year, they used BP (blue point). connectors for house wiring to join the wires & the gauge of wire for the ignition feed was only half the gauge Ford originally used so I just connected it back to how Ford connected it up in the factory by straight soldering & heat shrinking the wires together.
The car is still going about a year later apparently !
That looks like part of the system in my 01 Yukon I didn't get a remote for it , but I don't think it was for an alarm but a remote start. It was definitely installed very well. I want to get the remote but FleaBay and Scamazon wants 3x more for just the remote than the entire system? I've had the Yukon for 10 years now no issues with starting it. I might buy a new system just for the remote, my RAM 2500 has a remote start and I love it. Having it working in the Yukon would be nice especially on hot days so the AC and cool it down a little before driving it
Goobered is an understatement on the last alarm system I had installed back in the early 2000's. I had an alarm installed at Circuit City and was trading in the truck and pulled the alarm out to have it installed into my new to me truck. I have never seen such a butchered job in my life...maybe a hackjob is a better explanation. Needless to say I installed the system myself so it was done right and not hacked in. Never went to CC again for any kind of install.
I hated working on vehicles like that. Invariably, something completely unrelated to my repair would break a month later and they would try and blame me because I was the last on that worked on it. I'm sorry Karen, but the starter I put in your car has nothing to do with the rear passenger window regulator going bad, and no, I won't fix it for free.
Kenny, I would have to agree, 99% of all aftermarket items are pure crap!
I don't mind aftermarket alarms as long as they're done right. I seen Factory Dealer install KARR systems the worse. Mine is setup to cut fuel+ special reset circuit. Seen loads of those scotch loks from factory for diag purposes.
My car has that same light flashing, but it is not an alarm. It is for an immobilizer system. I have a little fob on my keychain that needs to be close to the ignition switch. In the column, there is a wire loop that wraps around the ignition switch, that is used to sense the presence of the little fob. If the wire is damaged or gone, or the fob missing, the car will not start. Maybe the lock cylinder was changed and someone removed the wire loop, or the fob has been damaged.
I fixed one Corolla 2006 that kept triggering the alarm at random. It has been two years without any problems, I just installed new battery terminals and added another ground strap from the battery to the body. Those alarms tend to activate when there is an intermittent connection or a bad battery.
I had a Jeep Grand Cherokee with a factory anti-theft system that was a nightmare. No one could fis it, so I scrapped the jeep. I didn't want anyone to get hold of a vehicle thatr would leave them stranded.
When someone blocks your bays, just say cool, then ask for the keys, and go park it down the block. When you get done walking back, they'll figure it out, and you'll have plenty of time to pull the correct rig in.
Other side of the planet, but customers behave the same. Parking in front of the shop, always annoying as if he is the big boss here, watches how his car is repaired, although he himself does not understand what is happening. And my favorite self-diagnosis and psychoanalysis during service
You may even worth the drive from missouri to get electric truobles fixed
Just another northern Homie that loves ya maniac
Yep ! aftermarket alarms end up being a total PITA. I lost count of those I removed from TONS of cars at the Ford dealership, over 6 year span lol......Especially auction cars, or trade ins.
At a Dodge dealer, worked for, we had a young female customer with a newer model CJ series jeep. Well, I get it for a bad flywheel, no big deal. I replaced the flywheel,(under warranty) the ring gear was chewed to hell. 2 weeks later, she's back, same issue, flywheels chewed up hmmmm
I replaced the 2nd flywheel, since it too, was like the old one, BAD..I couldn't find a reason for this happening......So it's like 3-4 weeks, this Jeep's BACK ! Boss is like "Ok this is getting nuts, see what's causing this problem !
Turns out her damn aftermarket alarm, would intermittantly activate while the engine was running. This never happened to me before now. It took a hour or so for it to happen once I let it run outside. So GUT OUT her alarm, problem solved !! Good, I got tired of seeing this vehicle so much haha NEVER seen it again
If you disconnect the control box it'll do the same. From the 2 vehicle I've done.
I bought a used car that had an alarm in it. There was a "hidden" push button switch in the car that would bypass the alarm and allow you to start it. Not sure if that's on all cars.
Usually but they dont fix the problem. If the alarm wiring was rushed through the mechanic that installed it just crossed his fingers and hoped it got through the warranty period.
@5:40 maybe should have someone holding button in while you shirted the cables?
There's nothing wrong with those butt connectors if you don't overcrimp them and then shrink the cover. I used them on my truck 8n place of the oem connector for the rear lights as it corroded to hell. And to splice in trailer wire connector. The are great.
Just unplug the alarm, unless it says Clifford
Talk about gps from auto dealers causing battery drain problems
Those and aftermarket remote start. 🤦
Maybe the door blocker thought you would just write one up without looking the car witch i know it happens in my state but they get caught in time and some times a car gets in a wreck and they go after the inspector
I unhook an alarm on a 94 grand prix
I would suggest everyone unhook both cables at the battery before touching them together and clearing the modules, then reconnecting to them to the battery.
Ya never know.... 😂
Hate those wire connectors. Do it right
its looks like the same job they do when dealers install gps ignition cut off switches under dash. could be a good video for your channel.
turn it on then off 3 times to didable alarm
I'm. Confused, camrys always run 😊
I don’t know how you do it brother because I can’t see anymore at 58 years old. It’s hard for me to get underneath the dash and I’m not a fat man.
Thing is with hauling out alarms are you going to cover their increased Insurance costs
7 months ago you removed an aftermarket alarm. Isn’t that the property of the customer? Did the customer give you permission to remove it and keep the parts? I don’t know if you mentioned it in the video.
Anytime I remove something like that from a customer's car is with their permission. I hand them the part when they pick up. Not one time has the customer taken the part. They always tell me to throw it away. Keep wrenching 🔧
How do you keep from repairing a stolen car?
I have never run into that before. Most people that boost vehicles are part of an organized gang that has their own mechanics & body people. OR they ride til the car dies. Interesting question! Thanks for watching 🔧
What a mess! Had a hitch installed once took a look at the wiring ( scotch locks! ) so I redid it. My wife says bring it back have them do it? No thanks!
I have a 02 Tacoma and when I put on the brakes my dash lights came on and I couldn’t use the cruise at night with the lights on. I removed the tail lights and found scotch locks used for the trailer lights. So I bought a new harness for trailer lights and replaced all the junk stuff. And bingo everything started working as should 😀. Morel of this story is get some one that knows what to do.
Same by me, though I also read online reviews that said of the ease of damage to the ECU, so also built a trailer relay, and added in a simple current sense relay to tell if current is being drawn by the trailer. At least tells if the lights are not working.
sqotch wire? AH okey so that's what they are named in english :) here in sweden they are named "tjuvar" (thief in english) because it steals electricity from another cable ;) and i hate them too
Aftermarket alarms creat a lot of wiring gremlins and fails especially as they age ..& some f butchered. installation that people do are just ludicrous
Any ford guys out there. Have 03 merc mountaineer same problem with a factory alarm light blinking fast tried all the you tube stuff nothing works hate to take to dealer 😢😢. Any thoughts appreciated
burn it
You're going to spend more money and time with this approach than taking it to the dealer to get it fixed. Taking some Internet stranger's advice about something like this is likely to cost you an arm and a leg in misdiagnosis.
That said, don't take it to the dealer. Take it to your local independent repair shop (that has a good reputation and is known for their diagnostic skills), and ask them to diagnose it. It will take some virtual legwork to find a good one, but they are far more likely to get the job done right than the flat-rate dealership guys.
The alternative is to get yourself a scanner, find the trouble codes your car might be exhibiting, the related wiring diagrams, and learn how to diagnose it yourself. (It's a big task, but very rewarding in the long run.)
Check the batteries in your key fobs. They need to be at least 3.2v. If that doesn't work, take it to a dealer. In order to access the pats system in your vehicle, a factory scan tool needs to contact Ford while its connected to your car, and go through a security check that takes about 10 minutes. Otherwise, you can't access the system.
When you take it in, bring at least 2 key fobs with you. If you only have one, you may have to buy another. For security purposes, certain actions require 2 keys. So, if the dealer calls you and try's to sell you a new key, its legit.
If you're stuck and can't start your car, and you have a push button starter, instead of pushing the start button with your finger, push it with you key fob. Depending what the issue is, it may start. You can also try putting a key fob in the programming slot. Look at the 2 cup holders in the center console. Pull the rubber mats off the bottom of the cup holders and look for a cutout that's about the size of you key FOB. Put the key in it and then try starting the car. If the cutout isn't below the cup holders, flip the arm rest up. Feel or look around in that compartment, and you should find a slot for your key. It won't be on the bottom, like with the cup holders. The slot should be on one of the walls. Put the key in it and try starting the vehicle. There's a good chance the problem lies elsewhere, but these things are easy to check, so you can get lucky and may not have to call a tow truck.
Need to clean your work area
I call those wiring things vampire terminals and they are the worst. I had my car fail when running on LPG because those things just loosen up the copper wire due to engine vibrations and also let crap in and a rubbish connection ensues. If you use them in your daily life on others peoples cars there is a special place in Hell for you.
I have never seen a broken down Toyota. Has to be user error.
I hate aftermarket stuff 😖
Those T taps and butt splices are like an installer is just begging to add an intermittent to their vehicle. Stripping, soldering, and heat shrink is the only way to make a wire connection 100% reliable. These things are so inexpensive these days. There is no excuse for doing this wrong!
I would love to see my channel grow, but for the time being I'm more concerned about helping people "undangerous" their car, than I am about affiliate links....
Just be helpful! It goes the farthest
Thank s.
Make sure the car is in park at all times!!!
Just saying.
I know what’s wrong with it,,, it ain’t got no gas in it, mmmm huuum
I recently watched a video where the guy puts t6 5-40 rotella in all his cars. Says that it’s better than reg oil .. sweet project cars is the channel your thoughts?
After market crap
so silly to add a push button start but leave and still need a key to operate.
1-it’s temporary
2-it’s difficult to wire a push button into all the switch positions.
People suck 😉