Installing the SpeedyBee F405 v3 ESC and Xing E Pro 2207 motors // Bacon's Budget Build Step 2
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Let's build a super cheap quad together! This is step two of the Bacon's Budget Build sub $250 FPV drone build, and it is time to install a drive train. In the last step, we built our TBS Source One v5 Frame but today it is time to get out the soldering iron. We will be getting our SpeedyBee F405 v3 stack ESC installed, relocating the capacitor, and throwing our Xing E Pro 2207 1800KV motors on in this step. If you are a building newb, this step by step guide will get you to the finish line...and if you are a pro maybe I can show you some new tips!
Follow along with the budget build in step 3:
• Wiring the SpeedyBee F...
#fpv #drone #tutorial
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Did you miss the first episode? Here you go!
• TBS Source One v5 FPV ...
Here are all of the special tools and parts I used to put this together:
24awg silicone wire set - amzn.to/3GhyWrJ
Soldering tip cleaning can - amzn.to/3V1viqg
Chip Quik flux pen - amzn.to/3hA3Hhh
Leaded solder blend - amzn.to/3X7cUhh
Metric Screw Assortment - amzn.to/3tx4MZV
Loom tape - amzn.to/3gaUdIY
If you choose to use printed arm protectors - bit.ly/3TujxaM
Bacon's Budget 5 inch Freestyle Build:
TBS Source One v5 Frame
iFlight Xing E Pro 2207 1800KV Motors
SpeedyBee F405 V3 Stack
SpeeydBee TX800 Analog VTX
RunCam Phoenix 2 Analog Camera
Happymodel EP1 ELRS Receiver
RCHackers 6S 1300mah
Ethix Rad Berry 5135 Props
My perfect 5 inch freestyle drone:
GEPRC Mark5 Pro Frame
iFlight Xing 2208 1800KV Motors
SpeedyBee F7 V3 Flight Controller
SpeedyBee 50A BLheli32 ESC
HDZero 1W Freestyle VTX
RunCam HDZero Micro V2 Camera
Ovonic 6S 1300mah
RCHackers 6S 1300mah
Ethix Rad Berry 5135 Props
My other gear:
Radiomaster TX16S
Radiomaster AG01 Gimbals
Thumb Grippies Pinch Sticks
Skyzone 04L Goggles
HDZero VRX
Lumineer Axii Micro V2 antennas
TrueRC Xair2 patch antennas
Happymodel 2.4G ELRS Pro Module
FPV footage filmed on GoPro Hero 10 Black Bones with no stabilization
5.3k Superview / 30fps / CameraButter ND16
Come hang out in The Bacon Corner on Discord...
bit.ly/3NNr7fn
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i just learned something today! excellent tutorial on how to solder the XT60 to the ESC. its the quickest and cleanest big pad job i have seen so far.👍 you are truly skilled in what you do and you inject humor in how you teach. never a boring moment!
So much easier to heat shrink the cap if you dont solder the wires to the board first. Also easier to size the wires correctly. Thank you for one of the best how to build videos out there.
Good morning I took apart old electronics and broken electronics and there's almost always open unused soldier pads on the PCB boards in those electronics and watched videos on RUclips like this one. And for next to nothing taught myself to solder. Take care stay warm.
That is for sure the cheapest and most effective way to learn! I have been tearing stuff apart to make new things since I was a kid and man have I made some horrible soldering mistakes, lol. That is how we learn, and doing it on old broken gear is a super safe way to get those mistakes behind you. I spent most of my teenage years designing, acid etching, and assembling my own PCBs as well...so mistakes got real expensive and I learned how to do things the right way, lol.
@@BaconNinjaFPV no shit that's cool I got some fpv products that I have goofed up and I have to fix and replace the Burt part's on the electronics I think that fixing your own flight controllers and vtxs and exedra would be awesome to learn how to do or build your own Flight controller and EScs. I grew up in Montana on a farm and no one really had any interesting type of electronics and any rc we had was nitro
just found your channel, upgrading my armattan rooster to a speedy bee stack and was a bit stuck at where to put the capacitor. Thanks for the tip, I've front mounted it out of the way
I have an armattan build that I need to get done too! Glad that tip helped you out :)
You should call your community "Bacon Bits" and you can say stuff like "What's goin on, greasy Bacon Bits" 😂😂
I got the same stack. Gorgeous little thing. Can't wait to replace the stack in my Emax Buzz with it 😊
lolol, at the minimum I should put out a hex bit kit and call the whole thing Bacon Bits! I actually did think about addressing the community as that, but my son is for sure the Bacon Bit and I have been using it for him for so long now. Some day there will be a Bacon Bit channel....little dude already pretends to make videos at my bench while I am at work, lol. You are really going to love that stack in the Buzz btw!
Not just another build video…. There are many great tips I lost count. Fantastic video!
Thank you so much :) I really tried to break it down as well as I could to make sure people would get through it and build something they could have fun with by the end!
This has been so helpful. I used some of your recommendations to start this build. I used the SpeedyBee F7 V3 (your "perfect" rec) and noticed that the + and - for the power are switched from the video. Luckily before soldering it in.
Edit: I had the chip flipped x.x
ahhhhhh, I was gonna say that SB is pretty consistent on which side is positive for their ESCs. I think if I had to do this one over again and wanted to spend a little bit more money, I would totally go Wasp/Link on it as well!
@@BaconNinjaFPV Yeah, that just means my power cable is set a little lower than your example. Hopefully it all works out when I do the vtx/rx step.
All ready to go, Stack screws aren't long enough 😆 hate waiting for parts when everything else is ready.
every stinking time!! it is always the small things that make a build frustrating, lol. Hopefully you aren't waiting too long.
@@BaconNinjaFPV thanks Bacon! Love your vids 🔥
Sir I am officially a fan I appreciate your energy and efforts 🙂 when studying this hobby you became a complete motivation 🤠 cant even use enough words to how awesome you've done.
well thank you so much!!! I really appreciate your kindness :) I hope that you get as much enjoyment out of this hobby as I have, and I hope something about the things I make helps you do it a little easier than I did.
Just finished a dji version of this build yesterday. Maiden tomorrow. About 120g lighter than my main rig. Should be a fun flyer.
I bet it flies great! This build runs about 50g lighter than my usual freestyle rig with the same camera on it, and even that little bit makes it feel a whole lot more snappy. I bet a 120g difference is going to really make it a fun one for you!
Thanks!
Thank you so much for your soldering tips! Easy to understand and follow. I especially liked how you clean your iron so obsessively and described why! It helped "up" my game. Soldering tiny 24 gauge wire to capacitor tips was not something I felt I could do before. I just did it today!
I'm working on a 7" build not even SpeedyBee but I'm following your steps and it's going well.
I bought the t motor velox f411lite for some reason but this build is almost identical to what I'm putting together. Thanks for the tips and walk-through it's helping me a bunch.
The Velox F411 Lite is a good little stack. Being an F411 it is pretty limited on UARTs though, so just look out for that when you are connecting everything up. I am glad this build series could help you out though!
clean, to the point, detailed with tons of helpful tips...super 🙂
Thank you my friend! I wish I had been able to make it a little shorter....but man was there a lot to cram into this one.
RE: soldering bottom to top, the solder wants to follow the heat. That's genius.
The flux at the bottom of the wire brush container...as someone who came to this hobby with zero soldering experience this just blew my mind. 🤯
[cue a dozen ppl telling me this is something everyone does]
Man, I have been doing that for soooooo long but im not sure who all else does it. Back in the day I would make a brush can with the brass sponge and then slather a half inch of paste flux down in the bottom. It is much easier now with them selling the whole thing as a pre-made combo though.
@@BaconNinjaFPV "much easier now with them selling the whole thing as a pre-made combo though"
[rushes off to Amazon]
Joined your Patreon as well....LET THE BACONING BEGIN!!!!!!!! (I don't know what that means)
Thanks for all the tips and detailed instructions!!
Glad I stumbled upon your channel a little bit ago.
Just so happens I will be building a Source One V5 with that stack this winter. (As long as the correct things get purchased for my Christmas gifts 😂)
Thanks for creating great content! 🥓🥓
Well thank you for checking it out! The SOv5 is such a great little budget platform to build on, and I still dont know how SpeedyBee is selling this F405 v3 at the price point, lol. It sounds like you may want to start dropping those Christmas hints now. Subtle at first, but as the days go by make sure to crank up the intensity so that they are well observed, lol. I really appreciate you stopping by!
@@BaconNinjaFPV haha I know it’s such a good deal with pricing these days!
I fully sent the shopping cart 😂
Had a little trouble with the power leads, but I got it
Another great video bro, stay safe
Thank you man! It was a suuuuuuper long video to shoot, lol.
Looks good..
Thank you!
great video im learning alot
Nice build, I like your choices. For the skids - have you seen the ones from FPVCrate? They are super cool as they have variation where a LED light goes into each one and they have 4 different colors. They look awesome and I am going to be ordering some tomorrow actually so there!
Oh, and the 63/37 solder - thank you! Geez, for what it is worth I am an engineer that works in aerospace and we solder the crap out of things every day. We have the best soldering irons on the planet as well as the best equipment to test, support, and maintain soldering. Anyway, the chemistry of the 63/37 is a big difference maker for people like us that are soldering a few wires and pads here and there... it is simply superior to 60/40 in every way so get some and throw away (read - properly dispose of) the 60/40.
Get some good solder (Kester is great) some flux, a cleaner for the tips (the brass shaving looking ones are great, don't forget to immediately re-tin your iron after you clean it!, grab some solder wick, perhaps some "third hand" accessories and you are in decent shape to get started.
Also f.w.i.w. (again) the hobbyist soldering irons known as the TS100 iron and it's many copies and variants actually solder excellently. I have access to some of the worlds best equipment and people that have decades of experience soldering and when we compared the TS100 to our JBC 1SQF station for example the TS100 did everything the JBC did almost as fast and just as high quality! How? Well it appears that the tips that these TS style irons are using are actually a very good design, and are seemingly built well enough for some hobby use... it did not seem possible at first but when we thought about it it did all add up - it had to it was working for us in our own hands!
I have the Sequre Si012 iron, I like it better that the TS100, and there are other good choices like the Pinecil - yes the Pine - cil - it was spelled correctly. I had one of the Pinecil irons but it broke about 10 minutes after I first started using it... and they would not honor the warranty because it was at about 40 days and they only warranty for 30 days. I told them I didn't even take it out of the box until about a week ago but they simply did not care...
Hey! Awesome tutorial! Quick question tho, can the drone hover once it's built? Thanks
Hey thanks so much for the video!! Does it matter that you left extra length between the ESC and the Cap?
So funny,...i came Here because i was gathering some Infos for my new build and the speedybee FC in advance.
While whatching your build Video i quickly realized, i choose exactly the Same parts as you did 😄🤟 FC esc stack -Motors-Frame .i also Changed Controller and my TX system fromm Spektrum to the new betafpv Lite 3 with E lrs. Would the Elrs inside the new Controller be enough for a Solid range or should i also get the nano module for even more mw ? Thanks
And btw great Videos and build series .very accurate for beginners to the Hobby and those who paused for a while Like i did . Thanks for that
Hey, great minds think alike my friend!! Honestly, the parts we both chose are top of their category for the price and I think a lot of pilots would do the same given the spec sheets. The parts list for this hands down has the most bang for the buck! On the ELRS module, the Lite 3 does have a 100mw limit on output. With other control links that would be reallllly low, but ELRS actually does quite well with just that amount of power if you don't run too high of a packet rate. I routinely freestyle on 100mw with a 250hz packet rate and haven't ever had a fail safe. Now having said that, if you intend to fly bigger structures or densely wooded areas, 100mw may become a limitation. Personally what I would do is just run the Lite 3 as is for as long as I could on 100mw and then upgrade at some point to a radio which can support the full 1W output of bigger modules and power it for a reasonable length of time. With the Lite 3 only having a single 2000mah cell inside of it, running an external module at higher output power is going to drain it pretty quick.
You are very welcome, and I really do appreciate you stopping by to check it out!
Heyyy very clean build so far. Excited to see part 3. Excellent choice for motors, btw.
Thank you!! Hopefully part 3 wont be so long, lol. I have been very pleasantly surprised by these Xing E Pro motors having always run the more expensive Xing line on my daily drivers. I will for sure be using them on more things in the future!
I've been watching these even though I've no intention of ever building another 5inch quad haha. Just can't fly them anywhere here without worrying the whole time about getting caught flying (FPV outside of a flying field is illegal here).
Cheers mate
sad that flying is illegal there :( It would be super hard to get a 5" quad out and be stealthy with it. What kinds of things do you usually fly to stay under the radar?
@@BaconNinjaFPV 2.5inch 3S builds, 85,75, 65mm whoops and of course the old faithful toothpicks. I've never really owned HD cameras and have just flown for the joy of flying. I'll be honest 90% of my flying is done out front of my house haha
Hello sir i have a small question where should i connect ibus reciver to f405 v3 flight controll
for doing this one with iBus I would use the RX pad from the UART that I have designated for ELRS in this build. The config file in the resources google drive link should set that UART for Serial RX, but you will need to go into the receiver tab afterward and set the protocol to iBus rather than CRSF.
The capacitor should be as close to the vbatt input pads as possible. This is why the contacts have drilled holes for the wires of the Capacitor.
The capacitor is now rendered useless...😳😏🇬🇧
That is actually a pretty common misconception. Yes running it over an extension is slightly less efficient, but it for sure isn't rendered useless. Here is a nice clip from Joshua Bardwell where they are covering some voltage variance charges for the different cap mounting scenarios. May be worth checking out! ruclips.net/video/kdPfiZ37nKs/видео.html
haha your thumbs yes good luck cutting the wires, i cleaned up my cabinet now its back to a mess again, and with my laptop and gaming set up my mouse and keyboard fkt up so im typing this manually, lol
it sounds like it is time for a clicky new mechanical gaming keyboard! I always miss mine when I am on the work computer and it tries to be all silent....im like "i wanna hear the key strokes in my soul" but it is like "nah, we are in stealth mode". lol
It's a great hobby/ way of life I thoroughly enjoy it, that look you get when you put your goggles on, people are like what the f is he doing 😄.
There always like that is best thing I've ever seen is it expensive? I say just check out some RUclips channels.
Heat shrink you clips, cheap fast effective. =)
That sure does work!! I like the silicone tube since you can't melt it and it gives a little more cushion....but I do have it laying around everywhere already, lol.
Wait, I put left on left, right on middle, then middle on right, for motors
That is still technically ok :) Having two swapped just reverses them, but in the flashing section we are going to set the motor directions correctly anyway so it will all wind up the same. I am sure you probably have them all swapped back now though, but if not it should be just fine in the end.
11:30 I didn't have any extra wire, so I did the motor step first and used some of the extra from that to place the capacitor, the longest pieces were just the right length.
This is the way
What happens if gps was added as well as elrs, your video shows you adding elrs rx to the gps pads
I for sure did use the UART down where the GPS goes just to keep the wire runs in check and not have to go over the board with them. If you do want to use GPS though, you can put your receiver on UART 1 up in the top right of the board and use the UART next to the SDA and SCL pads where I put the receiver in this one. It will mean some slight changes to the ports tab in Betaflight as well, and setting up the GPS protocol that you want to use.
@@BaconNinjaFPV it's OK I got it working by understanding it better and as I go along with it, bit by bit. Thanks for fast reply
So please clarify something for me, this a budget build so I have no room for error. My rx is an FXia10b, what pin port do I use and what pin goes to what tab in the speedybeef405? Just double checking, messing this up means I'm done for a while, on vet bennies I only get one chance a year go get something right. Thanks again for all your help so far.
Ok, so it can absolutley be done! The big difference is going to be that the FlySky receiver is going to use iBus/PPM rather than serial like we are using in this tutorial for ExpressLRS. You will need to first figure out which pin on your A10B should be the iBus output. I tried to look up the manual for it and it didn't return much info :( It looks like there are a couple of ports above the big row of channel outputs and the one you will likely want is the one marked servo up there. Once you have that identified, you would connect the signal wire from that 3-pin plug to R6 on the F405V3 and the other two wires for power to the 5v or ground pads (red to 5v black to ground) we used in this tutorial for the receiver. After you have all of that wired up, make sure you radio is bound to the receiver. When you have all of that done, then you will need to use your radio to change the output mode of the receiver you just bound to it so that we can get it in iBus mode. After allllll of that is done and you have the quad flashed with the CLI file from this tutorial, you can go back into Betaflight and set the protocol in the receiver tab. You will want to set the mode to serial and the provider to iBus. Hopefully then you can see some stick movement! It is a really long process and has a lot of steps, so there is absolutely room for things to go wrong here. I am going to link a video that is super helpful when using FlySky gear, and althought it wont be using the same flight controller as you are, everything except the wiring should be basically the same process for yours. ruclips.net/video/8ytxZWbPOfU/видео.html
@@BaconNinjaFPV One of the ways I looked up said to use the servo three wire of the rx set the urat to serial and Ibus in the other settings of beta flight then signal wire to the sbus pad on the speedybee. Does that sound right? I wasn't sure if pad rg was sbus I don't have diagram Infront of me.
sorry "pad r6"
@@BaconNinjaFPV One other question, Is there a cad model of the speedybee? I'm building in fusion360 and my micrometer is a little off.
@@BaconNinjaFPV According to the diagram the r6 tab is in the gps section of the flight controller. Does that matter? in the receiver section there is an r2.
Thanks for this video.....Any idea on finding 3d printed TPU parts for the V5 (I don't have a 3d printer). Thanks again for your video.
You are very welcome! I have a couple of go to places for 3D prints if you can't do them yourself or hit up a buddy for them. Brain3D has a whole collection of Source One v5 stuff and it i very very nice. If you want something a little more custom, I would head over to Jacks 3D Printing where you can send him one-off stuff and he always does a great job.
@@BaconNinjaFPV Thank you brotha
How do you know what wire to put to what pad on the esc from the motor, mine are black, yellow and red.
They can go in any order :). I usually just do left to right in order of how they come out of the motor so nothing has to twist over another wire down the arm. Further in this guide we will change the motor directions to make them all correct, which corrects for any motor wiring order you may have used.
@@BaconNinjaFPV You rock! Thankyou.
Do I need to put a capacitor while using dji air unit ?
Although technically you don't have to use a capacitor with a digital system since the voltage filtering doesn't impact the picture as much, it is still always a good idea. The cap will help save some of the other voltage regulation components during spikes and I would always highly recommend using one.
My F405 V3 doesn't work properly with iNav. The virtual 3d model on the setup screen either moves very slowly with no yaw or goes crazy even after calibration. I tested 2 new boards. They work perfectly fine with betaflight, though. Any idea what the issue might be?
hmmmm, I am not too familiar with iNav setup and what would be causing that. I suppose it could be something with how iNav is handling driver support for the accelerometer, but I would imagine that would have been an issue solved long ago as that gyro has been out for a while.
@BaconNinjaFPV If I connect the battery, it works properly most of the time. It doesn't work if it is only connected via usb, unlike the f405 wing.
We’d appreciate time stamps
I swear I had them in there before, but I had an issue a while back with them not working at all. I will double check and add them back!
@@BaconNinjaFPV that would be dope
this one’s my first drone xD
would 20 gauge wire work for the capacitor?
20 gauge is on the small end of what I would say would work for it. something thicker would be better if you have it for sure.
My solder doesn’t even stick to my esc and I’m using that speedybee like what do I do I need help asap
Sorry it took me so long to see this!! If your solder isn't sticking then that usually means that there isn't enough heat to properly flow it. I would make sure that you are using as wide a tip as possible to maximize the surface contact area, make sure the pad is getting heated up along with the wire when you are adding solder, and make sure your iron is capable of temps high enough to work with those bigger pads. Usually 400 degrees Celsius with a wide tip is the starting point for bigger pads like ESC mains.
Heh.. I build that with same things
Same motors and frame
But my Stuck is F7 Mamba
The Mamba F7 is a good option for sure! I have a couple of those running around in builds myself.
Instead of 24 guage. can I use 18 for the extended capacitor?
you absolutely can! I just wouldn't go smaller than 24 for it since you start to get into impacting circuit impedance counterproductively to capacitance.
@@BaconNinjaFPV oh gotcha, I ended up using 20 guage wire that I took when I was cutting my motor wires. Sorry to ask, but that is a better choice than the 18 right?
Can i use t motors velox v2207v3 1750kv with this build?
you sure can :) those would be in my lineup of "if this is out of stock" picks!
How do I fix my board it has a solid red light on my speedybee f405 v3
There are a few things that could cause that. Are you only getting a red light when you plug in to USB or are you getting the red light when you plug a pack into the quad? If it is when you have a pack plugged in, are you getting just the first three beeps and not the final two? Usually the issue is the ESC harness connector if this is happening with a pack plugged in. I would make sure that it is seated correctly in there as that tends to be the main cause of this. If it is happening with just the USB plugged in and you have already soldered components onto the board, it may either be your USB cable or an indication of some kind of short on a 5V pad somewhere sucking all of the current away from the MCU.
Complimenti per il video. Anche io vorrei costruire una build così. Ma questi esc supportano il flash con bluejay per poter usare il bidirectional filter? Come reputi il frame? Troppo scoperto il FC? Grazie!
Thank you!! The ESC does support bluejay and further into the build series I do flash it on here. I highly recommend bluejay for this setup and to ge bi-directional DSHOT working since it makes things fly a bit better. As for the frame, the milling can be a little hit or miss depending on what production run you happen to get yours from. If you don't get one with any messed up holes, then the frame itself is actually surprisingly good for the price. The FC does stick out a bit since it is so narrow, but the height works well and I have never had an issue with anything contacting the stack in a crash. :)
@@BaconNinjaFPV Thank you! You are very kind as well as very prepared! I subscribed and I will follow you gladly!
Where can I find the holding hands?
Here is a good cheap set if you can order from Amazon. www.amazon.com/ProsKit-900-015-Helping-Hands-Soldering/dp/B002PIA6Z4/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1GDET2QBEFD05&keywords=helping+hands&qid=1673571989&sprefix=helping+hand%2Caps%2C134&sr=8-7
@@BaconNinjaFPV Thank you!!
Would it be hard to put in a gps module later after the build is done?
it wouldn't be super hard to do. putting one in would require changing up some of the wiring and Betaflight config, but not too terrible.
Just got this stack and I already have an issue. I’m not getting any power to the FC when not plugged into USB. Do you know another way to power it?
hmmmm, that usually means that something is either up with the harness between the FC and ESC, the ESC has a hardware problem, or the XT60 isn't making enough pad contact on the ESC. You might double check that the ESC harness is fully seated in the connector since that is usually the culprit. If that doesn't work, it may be time to get out a multimeter and check the vcc/ground in that harness to see if you are actually getting any voltage out of the ESC.
hi! Im thinking to build a quad like this one thankyou for the info! I am starting at the hobby. Can you fly with 4s and 6s? Thankyou!
Welcome to the hobby!!! :) You absolutely can go 4S or 6S on this build. The difference is really going to be the KV rating of the motors since we are going with the 1800KV variety for this 6S one and a 4S quad would have a motor KV rating of around 2400. What you could do though is build it as a 6S and use a motor output limit of 33% to get the equivalent power of a 4S rig for learning on if that is your goal!
@@BaconNinjaFPV oooooook!!! thankyou very much! That is very helpfull! I will do that!
I get my Flux from Louis Rossmann!
I'm building my first fpv drone so I can get out of the DJI ecosystem.
DJI certainly doesn't support the right to repair.
Also question: 2200 mah VS 6600mah batteries? You could probably make a video on the different batteries, or you may have already.
Hey is it okay if I use a iflight Xing2 2306 1800kv for the motor instead of the Xing e pro 2207 1800kv motor?
it sure is! That motor size should put out about the same thrust and as long as you stick in the 1800kv range the tune will work for you with it.
Ngl bacon I broke the type c port and fries the fc…
So do you just wire any motor wire to any esc pad
technically yes, but also no, lol. The ESC is broken up into 4 sets of pads, 3 pads per motor. The three pads for each motor are the front and back half of each side on the ESC. Now the yes part is that the three wires coming out of your motor can go on to any one of those three pads technically and still function. I like to do them in order from left to right if you are looking at the quad from the side since that makes the most sense. No matter how you wire them though, it is still essential to set the motor direction in Betaflight when you are done because each combination of motor, wiring, and ESC can result in different motor directions. I do cover that part in step 4 though!
@@BaconNinjaFPV brilliant thankyou. Just got the frame and looked up a video on how to put my TBS frame together and found this series. Really enjoyed the first two so far. Great channel
Can I use dji goggles with this drone?
With this particular build in the way that I have it built here, no you cannot :( You can swap out the VTX and camera for DJI gear though and use it with your DJI goggles, but it will cost a little bit more than the target budget I was going for with this one.
Sir i need tbs source frame😢. Am from india here at any website frame is out of stock😢😢 can u help me . Big fan ❤ of you from india
I am not aware of any stores that have it, and I have had a few people look for it there over the past couple of months :( They have wound up going with some of the clone frames that are available without too much shipping hassle, but they are still pretty hard to find. I am sorry it so hard to get things over there, I know it really is a struggle.
capicitor forget , lol
Капец, полчаса кондер паял😂
Noobs- THIS is the droid you’re looking for. No other droids, this droid. Seriously.
Places smelly burnt sausage fingers in pockets.
it is a seriously good option for a first build, and heck...even a 27th build, lol. I can't wait to get all of the building steps done so that I can do the in depth blackbox stuff...but that is going to be many hours of recording from now. Before you put those sausage fingers in your pocket, you may want to taste them. I think with the proper seasoning they might just be a big hit!
Thanks for the great video! This is the build I am doing: ruclips.net/video/ZaBlsTkxKIM/видео.htmlsi=T-3yz8Tm9KKB3k2Y It is my first one and your video was great for putting the frame together!