You are very welcome! :) It is unfortunate that BF put out a new firmware release so soon after I made this, lol. Historically it has taken them quite a while between releases and I thought I would get a little more longevity out of it before config errors started cropping up, buuuuuuuut we know how that goes.
This is, IMHO, the greatest tutorial walk through for a quad build. 😎 I remember 2 years ago piecing my build together by watching different parts of the build on different channels - Blue Falcon for one part, JB for another, Dutch RC for the FC wiring, Drainman for the CRSF hookup, Mr Steele for soldering and batteries, etc. Thank you for this awesome guide. I LEARNED things WITHOUT TRYING to learn anything. Does that make sense? PS - your humor and wit are always sharp and I appreciate that also 😋 😎
Man, I really appreciate that!!! I actually caught a ton of flack for this series from some vendors who literally told me it was a dumb idea...lol. But I pushed through that and found some great people who would work with me to get it done, and I am so glad that I did! I didn't want people to have to go here or there to find everything they needed because that is such a pain. I am so glad that you got something out of it, and I really do appreciate you!!!!!!!
Well thank you so much for putting these 4 tutorials together. This is my 3rd build, yet I learned something today! loved the slow learning and all the tips. The build is now complete...tomorrow I fly!
You are very welcome!! I really wish I could do another one of these on a different build, but they take a big ol' chunk out of the budget, lol. Maybe some time this year I will do another one with a different take on a build!
Hover tested today and all went well - also got my first 3 non-simulated crashes under my belt. The only thing that gave me trouble with the build was the firmware flashing and binding of the radio receiver - once i seen that it had to match the radio's version of elrs (which was a new radio but 1 version from current) everything worked. Thanks for all the knowledge shared for my first drone and I hope you do more ...
I will absolutely do more in the future :) Yeah matching the ELRS version is for sure essential, even though most things you read about it don't really cover that part too well. So glad you got it up and going, and got those first crashes under your belt!
Thanks for the awesome tutorial. I followed your building tutorial thoroughly and used the drone for my school club. I was able to get third place at the TSA state conference for the drone event. Your videos were very detailed and we had no issues while building the drone.
I finished building mine yesterday and got to fly it today. I was really impressed with how well it flew. Thank you so much for doing this video series. I'm so glad I built it.
I watched this entire video although I’m nowhere close to this step, but all of your videos are very informative, and right now all of the nomenclature I can start to absorb is good. Great video, Bacon! Thank you!
You are very welcome, and thank you for checking it out!! It is always a good idea to absorb the lingo when it comes to FPV, lol...and there is a ton of it!
thanks man, for all videos in this series. With your advice and few more people with the 5inch build videos, i ordered some parts, the only few differences on mine will be hd video system and clone apex dc hd frame, i hope will be able to adjust the tune as will be using the same props even.
You are very welcome!!! First builds are a great experience, and I bet you are gonna love that Apex. The tune should hold up pretty well since that frame tends to be very clean. One thing to consider though is the capacitor mounting as the frame layout is going to be a bit different. You might find that you can get it closer to the main pads, so just dry fit everything in there a few times and adjust as needed to get it as close to them as you can.
What’s up! Thanks for the video. Just finished mine and it rips! Followed what you had to say and it was very informative and helpful in building this.
Super informational video. Bluejay is the best BLS upgrade out there. Really makes cheaper ESCs perform and tune much like a BL32. Cant wait to see the next in the series, these have been great videos.
Thank you!! I always run BlueJay when I get an 8-bit ESC. Every drone I have with one from small to large is running it if I can get away with it, lol. I can't wait to keep making more of these!
@@BaconNinjaFPV ha anytime! Love your videos! Literally check every morning when I wake up haha. You are slowly becoming my new Bardwell for technical info. I dont make a ton of money, and generally spend about 99% of my extra money on FPV stuff, but I will always squeeze in whatever support I can afford for your channel! You have come a long way already. Keep up the good work!
I been running the factory tune on my build with Bardwell rates. I love the higher rates than I was using. I think my old rates was 600..so of I dump your tune that doesn't affect the rates? If it does I could do your cli dump and just use Bardwell rates.?
Thank you so much!! I really enjoyed making these. I am hoping to do another series soon on a sub 250 freestyle build if I can get a good parts list worked out.
That was a great informative video bro, Also test if the failsafe is working by turning off the transmitter the quad should stop working! I’m setting up my Vtx in low power at first arm so if I’m far away and I have to disarm (crash) I still have the fixed power and a video link. Stay safe
Thank you my friend!! Good point on testing the failsafe. I should have covered that in here, but having done it so many times I guess I just kind of glossed over it personally and anticipated that it would work due to the CLI dump. For sure test it!! I think LPD on at least that first arm is a great idea, and I totally get why you would want it to remain at full power after a crash. I just usually crash in such tall and dry grass that I worry a bit about starting a fire, lol. I also find that I can kind of use my patch antennas as a location finder if it drops down to low power since pointing it at where the quad hit is the only way to get video back. I could see really needing it to stay full power if you get stuck on a roof or something though, lol.
you are very welcome!! The SpeedyBee F405 V3 has to be the best budget stack you can get right now, and I sure hope you enjoy it with that full bidirectional dshot from Blue Jay!
I haven't seen anything about that, but it could have had something to do with the v2 series of their boards. The v3 fixed quite a few things and I would say the reliability is much much better than it was in the v2 days.
When I go to set up my arm switch, I see that the throttle is registering on beta flight, but when I flip the switch to select it to arm, nothing happens. I’ve tried troubleshooting, but I havnt found anything.
it sounds like you may not have your switches mapped on your radio in the mixes section. here is a little article from Oscar Liang on how to get those in there. It is a bit old, but it is still valid. oscarliang.com/setup-switch-opentx/
When I'm loading the CLI file from your budget build diff file, it shows a couple of errors while executing and isn't saving. Could you help me with this?
Those errors are hold overs from betaflight 4.3 going into a newer 4.4 version. There should be two of them, and if you just type save after it is done it should save everything just fine :) It only keeps it from being saved automatically. I am going to also uploaded a BF 4.4 config dump very soon to keep those errors from coming up at all.
What happens if my flight controller when flashing the new betaflight software disconnects and says failed to open serial port while attempting to flash?
it sounds like when BF is telling the FC to reboot in to DFU mode for flashing, either it isn't actually booting into that mode or the DFU drivers aren't working for some reason. I would try manually putting it in flashing mode (usually powering up while holding a boot button) and then using the "no reboot required" slider so that BF doesn't try to reboot it into that mode. If that doesn't work, I would try putting the FC into DFU mode manually again and then use the ImpluseRC driver fixer to fix up whatever DFU mode driver issues are going on there.
Good catch up there! That pad is specialized for some very particular receivers which have an RSSI output pad. You would connect your receivers RSSI output to that pad so that the FC would be aware of it for use in OSD and other alarms :)
For sure! If it doesn't have any bounce back when you are doing flips and rolls, then the heat won't be from having too much D gain. If it does bauble a little at the end of a flip or roll, I would go down by .5 on the master slider (to the left) in the PID tab. If it doesn't have them though, it is most likely filters. In the filters tab of the PID tab, I would move the Dterm filtering slider to the left by one click at a time until you find a point at which the heat gets within reason.
PLEASE HELP. I've flushed the ESC but forgot to press "Disconnect". Now the esc-configurator isn't loading the settings when I press "Read Settings" and the sound that the chip was previously making when connected to the battery disappeared
I loaded the cli file and got to many errors. Invalid resource name servo , camera control Invalid name Osd stat max spd off osd stat endbatt = on Osd stat used mah =off Osd stst bb_no Error in rateprofile 4 outside of 0..3 Rateprofile 5 Save configuration error Please help me to figure this out
Unfortunately betaflight has change some naming conventions since this video came out and it does cause these errors :( Good news is none of them actually impact any of the function! Once you get the CLI loaded, just type save and hit enter. That will force it to save and ignore those lines that had problems.
I am guessing that the dithering had some kind of negative impact, most likely something to do with thrust output or motor heat. It isn't suuuuper important to have since it is just there to provide a little more smoothness and resonance rejection. If it is coming stock that way now, I would absolutely just leave it off :)
Every time I try to load the CLI, it errors out and doesn't progress. I can't control or test motors at this point and am starting to pull out my hair. Halp?
Bro, I have assembled a drone with FC that matches the video. But when I plugged in the 6s battery it detected only 1s in betaflig. Or the voltage detected is only 4 volts, not 22 volts. How do you fix this, bro? Please help bro
Hi bacon, so i have run into an issue you may be able to help with the f405 v3 i have installed into my build. When i plug in to attempt to conig the esc on esc configurtator i get the error - Port already in use by another application - try re-connecting. Also when the usb is plugged in i only get one red led light next to the usb port on the stack. I am also getting issues when i try and connect to the speedy bee app, the app finds the f405 v3 but when i click connect i keep getting an error saying connect fail please restart your device try to get closer to the device and connect again.
I built a drone and cannot get full power to the motors. I am using the the speedybee f405 v3 stack with 350-750kv motors and bluejay. I got the power to increase in the esc on the esc link you had, but it isn't half of what I should have. Is there a setting in beta flight to fix this? thanks.
hey bacon when I put the diff file in it throws errors. then you said in another comment to type save and I did and then quad no longer rotated in the model and my throttle inputs wouldn't work anymore. What should I do?
Hey! Yeah the diff will turn off the accelerometer since this is set up to fly in acro and the acc is only used for other modes like horizon. That will make your display not move since it is based on the position of the accelerometer rather than the gyro, but it saves some CPU cycles and makes sure you have more head room for the PID loop and filtering to operate correctly :) As for the throttle inputs, since those were wet up prior to loading the diff the settings they were using before were likely different somehow than the way I have this quad laid out. It may be that the port you have your receiver on isn't the one that I used in the build or that you protocol in the receiver tab is something different than serial so check those two places and I bet you find it.
If I used the emax ecoII motors on this build rather than the Iflight xing 2208 motors that you used, will this pid tune still work? The xing motors are back orderd at the moment and Idk how long that will last. Do you think I should just wait and the xing motors, or would the emax motors be just as good. also, if the answer is to get the eco motors, than which kv sould I buy them in to match the kv of the xings- the xings are listed as 1800kv (suposedly they are actually lower than that in reality btw), but the ecos only come in 1700 or 1900. Thanks! Sorry for the long comment.
Absolutely! The Eco II in the same size are a great swap out for with the Xing is out of stock. I would go with the 1700kv variant to give you a little more headroom for safety on the tune. Going hotter than 1800kv may put it in a position to be more noisy and wobbly than it would be otherwise, but going down on the kv is much safer. Sorry it took me so long to get back to you on this one. My computer has been kind of a wreck and I just now got it all worked out, lol.
Hi, I've followed your tutorial and when using the CLI dump I've ran into a few errors. I am using a more recent BetaFlight version as it is recommended. Do I just skip the CLI, is it needed? Thanks
Always a great question! When loading that CLI file you will see some errors for sure due to version differences between Betaflight that was available when I did this and newer releases. Good news is you can just type save and hit enter to accept the changes :) None of the errors are critical to function or will mess up anything with the configuration of your flight controller, so accepting them is safe. You will for sure need the CLI though since it has the tune and other pre-set options to work with the selected parts and where those parts are soldered to the board.
@@BaconNinjaFPV I've used the CLI and the accelerometer is not working. The instruments on Betaflight do not react to tilting the drone. Should I be worried about this or would it just be a betaflight issue with the errors and not affect real flight.
could you point me in the right direction, at which point in the video do you add your custom tune to the drone, or is it when you do the elrs stuff toward the end
Usually that is going to be an issue with the USB cable you are using. I would try a couple of other ones and see if you don't get different results :)
I’ve finished all my flashing, and my drone seems good, but I can’t connect my goggles with my drone. I plugged my drone into betaflight to see what band and channel it’s on and set my goggles to it, but I don’t see anything. Do you have any ideas of what it could be? I’m using the flysight falcon fg01.
It should work for the most part! The wiring diagram should be close to the same as far as the VTX goes, you will just have to reference which pin is which on the Rush's connector to make sure they all wind up where they need to go. As far as 4S, everything about this should be fine as long as you are running motors with a high enough KV to accommodate the pack voltage :)
@BaconNinjaFPV awesome thanks for replying so fast! I have another question... so I need a antenna for the rush vtx and I see some are lhcp and some are rchp which would I need if I'm using betafpv vr03 Goggles? Could i just get any antenna for the vtx (having the proper male/female end of course)
I do!! But before you use it, my Mark5 isn't a factory built one and the tune I am using is pretty specific to my quad. I am running 2208 motors with low pitch props at 1800kv and an all up weight around 730g. If that sounds like your quad, then it may work for you. Let me know and I can load it up to google drive for you!
Hey @Bacon Ninja FPV, I have windows 11. I am able to connect to betaflight configurator no problem, able to change all modes and vtx tables and do all that. It won’t let me flash though. When I download firmware and hit flash it says no serial port available. Do you know a fix for this? I haven’t heard of this issue on windows 11 or 10. Very sad)’:
well at least it is half way working! lol. There are a few things that could be causing this. First one is maybe the no reboot sequence slider is on in your flashing window. That will keep the FC from rebooting into bootloader mode and since we are doing all of this from the regular booted side of the FC that reboot sequence is necessary. I would double check that you have that one off just to make sure. If that is off, then it could be drivers. These are the STM32 bootloader drivers for x86/64 that you will need to install www.st.com/en/development-tools/stsw-stm32102.html and then reboot your PC after that completes. Let me know if any of that works for you!
When I put the file onto the cli on betaflight, it’s coming up with errors. Could it be because I’m using the latest betaflight configurer as well as the latest bluejay, which are newer than the ones you used at the time of making the video?
it is for sure because of the way 4.4 handles a few things. The errors you are getting are related to the barometer and magnetometer though, so they are negligible. After you run the config, just type save at the end to override the error window and you should be good! I should have a 4.4 safe CLI file for it soon though :)
Hey man, tried flashing the exact same stack, i can now only see the first esc, the rest say unknown. Any ideea? P.s. all the motors spin, so the esc works. Thank you!
This tutorial has been great so far! Just wondering, though should I load the same CLI Diff file, because some of my hardware is different; I have different 6S motors (ecomax) and a different cam (caddex rattel). I'm guessing since both my fc, esc, and vtx are the same I should be good?
the diff should be just fine for your setup :) the motor KV/voltage is fine with the base tune I have on that CLI since I made it super safe and your camera wont mind anything that gets set with it. You will probably notice some errors when you load it if you use BF 4.4 or higher, so just remember type save and hit enter at the end to for save it after pasting. They changed some wording and a few setting limits, but none of the errors are anything that isn't going to need a default value anyway.
For budget goggles in the price range of this quad, I would suggest the Eachine EV800DM or the Emax Transport 2 goggles. Both are box style and both are just basic diversity, but they get the job done!
Which melody did you used am searching for it over and over websites please can you share a copy of it ? Actually I liked it so much tried finding and making it but was unable too
I am pretty sure I am using the Emperial March which is just right inside the melody editor drop down within the Blue Jay configurator. Makes it super easy since they have a whole library right there to choose from :)
I just built this same drone except I used 4s motors Xing-e 2207-2450kv when installing the CLI into beta flight configuration tool I get two errors that say "Invalid resource name: servo'### Invalid resource name: 'camera_control'###
Bacon. Please help. I’ve been through part 4 of your series - but I have a Taranis 9+ 2019 with a Happy Model Elrs back & elrs receiver. I have never done any of this before, bought everything to go thru your build. Can I not use the Taranis radio with your wiring for the Elrs Tx & Rx??? The ES24Tx Pro Tx and EP1 Rx. So I continued on, your Diff file had 4 errors. I setup HM Tx & Rx watching Josh B for how to flash. Setup via WiFi. So, when I move the sticks they don’t register in BetaFlight. So could be my wiring but is this why you said throw the radio out the window? Also betaflight says there is no VTX so maybe my soldering? Please help me understand and where to look for info and I will be grateful
Little more ... I can see the receiver is connected to the radio. Using the Back bay module HappyModel 2400 Pro. when I turn the drone on and off I can hear the radio say that it loses and regains connection. I re-soldered, so that _shouldn't_ be the problem. Is there a reason why Taranis x9d+ 2019 with a HappyModel ELRS module won't work where your other radio with an ELRS module does? Do I really have to throw away the radio? I bought it just for creating a DIY drone .. would prefer not to have to buy a whole new radio ... please advise
this is some perfect question timing!!! I actually just did a video about ELRS trouble shooting that may be able to point you in the right direction. ruclips.net/video/ho4vLbu3H8U/видео.html Also, if your radio is saying telemetry lost and is connected, that is a good sign. It may actually be that your radio and receiver are too close to eachother when you are working on it and the transmitter is actually deafening the receiver causing a disconnect. If you aren't getting stick inputs though and you have a solid light on the receiver when your radio is connected, the last section of this video may help you out!
@@BaconNinjaFPV So ... On my v405v3 by SpeedyBee, I moved where some of the wiring was on your wiring diagram ... so I moved the receiver to R2 & T2 (Upper-Right corner, above the USB-C and on the same side) along with G & 4V5. I moved the VTX (which wouldn't connect no matter what I did) to the VTX & T1 (beneath the SpeedyBee words and in the center) and G & 5V. Now, when I connect in my battery (with the smoke-saver, of course, since I changed wiring / soldering) and USB cable to BetaFlight, I get STICK movements & the VTX shows connected. I have the mapping as TAER1234, and see movements on the graphs. What I have to now figure out .. I don't see switch movements. I almost bought a new radio because it wasn't working, but now it is working, and I'm much more happier ....!
Thanks again for putting this build together for all of us. Ours turned out awesome with one issue. I was curious if you had any input on this. We’ve been ripping this pretty hard and seem to keep breaking the mid plate. The original one lasted two weeks with pretty hard, flying and crashing, but since then we have broken two more. We’re not flying around concrete or anything just smashing into tree branches mostly. It just seems like a odd place for this frame to be cracking. I was wondering if you had any thoughts on this. Is it that we just need to buy a sturdier frame? This frame seems pretty tough. Anyways thanks again for all the help.
hmmmmmm, that is pretty odd!!! Are all of the replacement plates from the same store? It is possible that they got a bad batch of carbon or something...or that the tolerances are off for some reason and it is putting too much pressure right there on that plate. Tree crashes really shouldn't be breaking this thing at all, but I do know since it is an open source budget design the manufacturing does vary a little bit between runs.
@@BaconNinjaFPV Yes, all of the kits are from GETFPV. I bet that they are from the same batch. Thanks for replying, your perspective of the situation is helpful. The quad has been awesome, great tune. Great experience for us instead of buying a pre-built. We learned so much before even the first flight.
I hate my hp laptop. It's helped me brick my first bind n fly, thank God this stack is better. It won't flash via USB, I'm going to figure out how to flash via Bluetooth.
heyy man i built mine! thank you! Just one question: i connected my elrs reciever to the same UART as urs, however i have to plug in the battery in order for it to turn on. Shldn't it also power up via USB?
The default firmware on the SB BLS ESC is BLHeli_S, but we do flash BlueJay to it in this video :) I believe I had previously flashed mine with bluejay before showing everyone how to do it here if you were wondering why mine may have had it on it before that part of the video.
When entering the esc-configurator page.. Do I have to connect the battery to the drone? Sorry, I do not speak much English. By the way, my engines are spark hobby 1750kv, the configuration you used will work for me? Thanks :D
No problem!! Yup, you sure do have to have a pack plugged in to connect to your ESC. Just be sure to have your props off in case the ESC decides to do something funny. As for the motor KV, that should be just fine since it is very near the 1800kv I am running here.
If you run 4S on very near 2400kv motors ( the 2450kv Xing E Pro will do it ) then the tune should be very very close. If anything it would just be a click one way or the other on the master slider to adjust for any amp draw sag from the higher amps 4S pulls under load.
I'll be making this drone without the need for a camera. Is it possible to fly a camera-less version of this drone legally, but without a permit? Where can I go to find this information?
If you are talking about it fitting in the 250g limit that exists in the US (and some other places) unfortunately it will be above that in almost every possible way to build it :( The LiPo alone weighs nearly 200g, and just the weight of the frame would put you over the limit at that point. If you really want a solid shot at meeting that weight limit in a 5" build, the Ummagawd 2fiddy is designed just for that and can be built to stay right under the line with specific components :)
@@BaconNinjaFPV Thanks so much for the reply and the tips! The drone I end up getting needs to be partially made, but still have some spots for young students to solder to get practice with electronics. I found two options for this, but they both require modification, meaning I'll have to source a custom drone and make the kits myself, which I may just end up doing. I'm curious if you know of any smaller, non-racing drone kits out there for this type of thing?
@@junosprite007 Absolutely! For students the BetaFPV Cetus, Cetus, and Cetus X kits are a great all in one way to get FPV drones in their hands that are small and safe. Emax also makes some beginner kits, particularly their TinyHawk 3 one that are in the same category.
While trying to flash the diff file from betafilght i get 2 errors: # # save configuration # save ###ERROR IN save: ERRORS WERE DETECTED - PLEASE REVIEW BEFORE CONTINUING### ###ERROR IN save: PLEASE FIX ERRORS THEN 'SAVE'### # # # # # # diff all How to handle this?
I just want to say thank you for all your videos they are a huge help. I am just building a 5" iflight Evoque f5x v2 with the speedy bee 20x20 f405 35amp stack and xing 2306 2450kv motors and wanted to know could I use the same rates file you have for this stack? Sorry for the newbie questions I am using dji vista Thanks in advance
mine isn't behaving well with BlueJay, it keeps going into death roll after 3 - 10 seconds of flight, flash it back to BLHeli and it flies ok again, so i am guessing it has to be something to do with a BlueJay or 4.4BF setting, which includes Bidirectional dshot 300 and rpm filtering, but can't find the answer just yet.
hmmmm, that sounds like a desync to me and that could absolutely have something to do with the config on bluejay. Mine seems to stay in the air on bluejay, although pretty shaky the whole time, lol. Did you happen to see what the timing settings were in bluejay last time you flashed over?
@@BaconNinjaFPV yeah desync finally, and maybe on the edge of desync during the part of flight where it was running, it did feel aggressive, the timing was on low, i think there were three options "off" "low" and "high", the flight on BLHeli is much smoother, when using stock pids, i notice my scaled gyro is rough on black box, but in fairness i dont have much filtering, i will add some more to help the motor v frequency higher range 180 - 500
Hey! My cli dump ran into a servo and camera control issue, it could not find those. I hit save, I hope it's nothing important, but I wanted to check (im using BF 4.4.3) Thank you for the videos, it has been a journey for me making my first build :)
Thank you very much for this. Was very helpfull. Question... Can I change to dshot 300 (betaflight) after the ESC flash to bluejay? I flashed with dshot 600
I have all of the 3D files in the resource folder for the build on my google drive. Here is a link to it! bit.ly/3UbEDuN As for the antenna, I believe the 65mm has no straw on it at all and is just coax from the MMCX up to the bulb. The holder for this one really needs some straw to hold on to and keep the antenna upright. You may be able to use the 65mm, but it would most likely require a different antenna mount with a button hole to snap the antenna into rather than using the straw to grip it like I am doing with the 95mm.
so since the 69 will have a different VTX table in BF than the TX800 that I used in the build and have in the config files, you will need to upload a VTX table for that one. You can either find the table on TBS's website and use a JSON file to import it, or you should be able to find one in the presets tab of BF if you search around in the VTX section a bit :)
@@BaconNinjaFPV thank you. Do I need to remove the wrong imported vtx settings? Or will the new vtx tables replace the wrong ones? Thanks again for your help!
it should as long as you stick to mid range Kv motors in the 4S zone. The 2450kv version of the same Xing E motors I am running on this one should do just fine for it!
I unknowingly built your budget drone. Thank you for your help in clearing up some of my questions post what I thought was right. One question if you will; what is the procedure for arming the speedy bee? Either I missed something or nowhere is it mentioned. Thank you.
Bacon, I need some greasy advice. I got the Darwin240 and replaced the stack with the SpeedyBee stack that I was originally gonna put in my Emax Buzz and had a question for you. Being that this is a 4S build, would you change anything about the FC/ESC firmware or CLI to accommodate not being 6S?
As for it not being 6S, no there really isn't anything you have to do in BetaFlight to compensate for it. The motors and pack voltage work together to provide a kind of "gearing" that give the props the same general tip speed on 4S that you would get with different KV motors on 6S, so essentially the same. As for the swap, did you load up the CLI dump from darwin or did you just get all of the ports going and leave the tune on BF defaults? I was just going to mention that the CLI dump Darwin provides wont be for that board and will likely have some issues if you pasted it on the SpeedyBee.
@@BaconNinjaFPV I flashed the newest BF/BJ firmware and that's it, so far. I'd actually gotten to the CLI dump and waited to hear back from you to see what you had to say, since this is somewhat different to what you're doing(not really, I didn't source the motors, VTX and camera 😅). Sounds like I can continue to follow right along with the video on 4S, though. My solder joints could be better, but my first stack swap didn't trigger the smoke stopper, so I'm pretty pumped about that. Thanks for your insight, Bacon!
@@CaptainKush420 ah, good call on waiting! Yeah you can basically just move forward with the video from that point. You will need to figure out what UART your receiver is connected to and what your VTX smart audio is on since it will be different than my build guide, but just swap those numbers in where necessary. Always a good sign when your first swap doesn't let the magic smoke out! lol
I am not sure what you meant by ant goggles, but maybe you mean any goggles? If so, yes the analog VTX I am using for this will connect to any analog goggles with a 5.8ghz receiver in them. As for if it is north america specific, that just depends on the video format you choose in the OSD menu within Betaflight. You can specify NTSC for north america, or PAL for the rest of the world. I hope that helps!
Nice build series. Great job. For the receiver setup, roll midpoint looks out of range? Maybe some advice for subtrim or rxrange (if endpoints are off also)? At least that is what I do with BF setups, hopefully not wrong 🤣
I really just need to re-calibrate my sticks, lol. It has been a really long time and I bet the center point has just slightly changed since these gimbals were brand new. They are plenty wore in now and it is worth re-calibrating. I was going to get into the rxrange adjustments, but I figured that if someone had done a BNF before with an ELRS link, they should probably have already adjusted those ranges for their radio. Maybe I will throw together a separate video for that and the ELRS flashing just for those who are very very new to those things!
Ehm after several Others Problems and issues , i loaded the diff file and the tune file but now i have No more flightmodes available at all.if i Arm and Start giving throttle, the Quad jumps a Second yaws a bit and falls Back to bottom ,Motors Stop. I really would appreciate If anyone could Help
I am sorry ou are having trouble with it :( The diff file sets the tune as well, and the only mode it sets up is acro. As for the flip out when you throttle up, that is usually a motor direction problem or the props being on wrong. You might run through the motor direction steps in the video one more time, and double check that your props are installed in a props out orientation as that is how this one is set up. Let me know how those things go for you, and I hope it fixes it!
@@BaconNinjaFPV i Triple Check(Ed) my Motors and doubt Its the props but will Check IT and give a Feedback. But why are there Not even flightmodes to See in BF how did U get rid of them in this tune .via cli commands ?
@@Raven-FPV If it doesn't turn out to be the props, I would go into the config tab in BF and enable the accelerometer. Once you do that, disconnect the quad, unplug the USB, then plug the USB back in and connect back to BF. In the setup tab you should see a virtual model of the quad. Pick it up and turn it on all of its axises to make sure the model responds in the correct direction on each one. It may be possible that somehow your FC orientation is doing something funny. As for the modes, having just acro/air mode enabled is essentially the lack of all modes. Modes aren't technically set up in BF so much as they are just assigned to switches and activated when you toggle them. You can absolutely add them back if you want them by setting the appropriate switch in the modes tab to something on your radio to enable it. If you are wanting to use angle mode, just be sure to also leave your accelerometer on in the config tab. I had all of that disabled to save CPU cycles on this board since it is just an F4 chip.
@@BaconNinjaFPV i need To learn more and Better about All this. Thanks for your Help and reply man.appreciate it a Lot . How do i add them cause i cant See them Like normally in the left Side to really ADD a range towards Horizon or Angle for instance .All i See ist the Others stuff Like beeper , Flip a.crash n stuff. Its to overwhelming sometime when you gather Infos and knowledge
@@Raven-FPV No problem at all!! I just want to see you get it in the air and have fun :) I think what you are seeing there is the "hide unused modes" option selected. There should be a little slider above all of the modes for it. Just click that off and then you should see all of the extra modes come up on there. As for how to add a range to them, that should be basically the same as how I did them in the video just with the particular one you are wanting to add. You can always hit up the discord server too since there are quite a few people who have built them on there and sometimes replies over there are faster too :)
It sure is coming! The tune won't really be different at all, we will just be relocating the VTX wires to the DJI plug and setting MSP up for Display Port OSD.
Those props will have quite a bit more thrust for KV than what I am using here, so I wouldn't recommend using this tune without some tweaking. Unfortunately it all relates to the motors and the Kv of them as well, so I can't really tell you what that tweaking should be either :( In general though, if you were going to try this I would start with the master slider moved down to at least 0.8 to make sure it is safe, then move it up 0.5 at a time. After you get that in range, you would probably also need to adjust the P and D sliders to get the balance back into place again.
Hey Bacon Ninja FPV! Thank you for the awesome tutorials!! When trying to execute the CLI Diff, there are a few error popping up in the CLI, and due to that, the flight. Controller doesn’t restart what can i do to overcome this problem?
Since the config file was created on BF 4.3, loading it on a 4.4 is a bit different and some of those config lines don't quite do the same things anymore due to feature changes they made. Good news is, just typing save after it gets done loading the config forces the changes to write and the FC to reboot :) the errors that it is throwing are for things like the barometer and magnetometer which won't have any impact to the function of the board, so forcing it to save is perfectly safe. I am working on an update to the CLI files so that anyone loading 4.4 will be able to use a config file specifically for that and not throw these errors anymore. Well, at least until BF puts out a version 4.5 anyway, lol.
great video, just one question. im running a bit of a different setup and its my first drone so im a bit confused, instead of applying custom defaults and using your tune what should i do? is there a general tune i should use out there? ours are pretty similar the only difference is im running eco 2 2306 motors and a 4s lipo instead
Thank you!! So for that what I would do is still load the custom defaults so that all of your uarts map to the MCU pins like they are supposed to, but I just wouldn't load my CLI dump. You will have to go in and manually set things in the ports tab, receiver tab, config tab, and VTX tab, but there are a ton of vids out there on how to do that. As long as you don't do a tune dump, it will keep the Betaflight defaults which really aren't bad at all and should get you in the air!
Is there a good tune dump for this… I have not upgraded to the blue jay software.. and it seems to run fine! I as well have 2306 2400kv motors on mine! I can run the quad with a full sized go pro with no issues… but should I upgrade the firmware to blue jay?
Good question! The latency difference between dshot 300 and 600 is only 25 nanoseconds, so there isn't really any benefit to it in reality. It is better to run 300 with an F4 processor to get back a little of the MCU overhead and lower the chances of corrupt packets since we are using bidirectional shot for this one.
@@BaconNinjaFPV I see. what gyro and pid loop speed are u running? I’m trying to sort out by black box logging having gaps in the log and i wandered if that could be the problem.
@@rorymace I am running 3.2k on both since the BMI270 maxes out at that refresh rate. For the logging gaps....I've had that happen too :( usually it is the SD card you are using. It is weird to say, but the cheaper the card the better it logs, lol. Just make sure it is small (I run a 32gb since I can't find smaller), is an SD or HC rated card, and you have formatted it in fat16 or 32. If you go to the SpeedyBee product page they have a piece of software the recommend for the formatting you could try as well.
Well I used bluejay and beatalight 4.4 with Bidirectional dshot 300 and rpm filtering DEATH ROLL went back to blhelis works perfect no Bidirectional dshot or rpm filtering :(
hmmmm, Which PWM did you wind up going with and did you happen to try setting demag compensation to high in BlueJay to see if that stopped the desync? BLHeliS handles things a little differently so it is possible there just wasn't enough demag timing on BlueJay to handle something funny going on with the motor/esc causing the roll and BLHeliS has just enough to compensate.
@@BaconNinjaFPV I went with 48k has im using 03 did not change anything was your default settings mate shall I try something more id be glad to try something its easy to go back :)
Thank you bacon for contacting me in discord and helping me! 5 star service!
You are very welcome! :) It is unfortunate that BF put out a new firmware release so soon after I made this, lol. Historically it has taken them quite a while between releases and I thought I would get a little more longevity out of it before config errors started cropping up, buuuuuuuut we know how that goes.
Same I built thisbdrone using a cheaper receiver and he helped me throughout all my issues!
This is, IMHO, the greatest tutorial walk through for a quad build. 😎
I remember 2 years ago piecing my build together by watching different parts of the build on different channels - Blue Falcon for one part, JB for another, Dutch RC for the FC wiring, Drainman for the CRSF hookup, Mr Steele for soldering and batteries, etc.
Thank you for this awesome guide. I LEARNED things WITHOUT TRYING to learn anything. Does that make sense?
PS - your humor and wit are always sharp and I appreciate that also 😋 😎
Man, I really appreciate that!!! I actually caught a ton of flack for this series from some vendors who literally told me it was a dumb idea...lol. But I pushed through that and found some great people who would work with me to get it done, and I am so glad that I did! I didn't want people to have to go here or there to find everything they needed because that is such a pain. I am so glad that you got something out of it, and I really do appreciate you!!!!!!!
Well thank you so much for putting these 4 tutorials together. This is my 3rd build, yet I learned something today! loved the slow learning and all the tips. The build is now complete...tomorrow I fly!
You are very welcome!! I really wish I could do another one of these on a different build, but they take a big ol' chunk out of the budget, lol. Maybe some time this year I will do another one with a different take on a build!
Hover tested today and all went well - also got my first 3 non-simulated crashes under my belt. The only thing that gave me trouble with the build was the firmware flashing and binding of the radio receiver - once i seen that it had to match the radio's version of elrs (which was a new radio but 1 version from current) everything worked. Thanks for all the knowledge shared for my first drone and I hope you do more ...
I will absolutely do more in the future :) Yeah matching the ELRS version is for sure essential, even though most things you read about it don't really cover that part too well. So glad you got it up and going, and got those first crashes under your belt!
Thanks for the awesome tutorial. I followed your building tutorial thoroughly and used the drone for my school club. I was able to get third place at the TSA state conference for the drone event. Your videos were very detailed and we had no issues while building the drone.
That is awesome!!!! Congrats on that 3rd place finish, and I am so glad this series could help you out :)
I finished building mine yesterday and got to fly it today. I was really impressed with how well it flew. Thank you so much for doing this video series. I'm so glad I built it.
Dear Sir, What is the procedure for arming the Speedy bee? Thank you, Roland
Super helpful was up and going in no time thanks for all the help
you are very very welcome :)
I watched this entire video although I’m nowhere close to this step, but all of your videos are very informative, and right now all of the nomenclature I can start to absorb is good. Great video, Bacon! Thank you!
You are very welcome, and thank you for checking it out!! It is always a good idea to absorb the lingo when it comes to FPV, lol...and there is a ton of it!
thanks man, for all videos in this series.
With your advice and few more people with the 5inch build videos, i ordered some parts, the only few differences on mine will be hd video system and clone apex dc hd frame, i hope will be able to adjust the tune as will be using the same props even.
You are very welcome!!! First builds are a great experience, and I bet you are gonna love that Apex. The tune should hold up pretty well since that frame tends to be very clean. One thing to consider though is the capacitor mounting as the frame layout is going to be a bit different. You might find that you can get it closer to the main pads, so just dry fit everything in there a few times and adjust as needed to get it as close to them as you can.
@@BaconNinjaFPV thank you man for advice,
Got my first build in the air and I couldn't be more excited to destroy something I built
What’s up! Thanks for the video. Just finished mine and it rips! Followed what you had to say and it was very informative and helpful in building this.
You are very welcome! Just glad you got it up in the air and are giving it a proper sending!
Super informational video. Bluejay is the best BLS upgrade out there. Really makes cheaper ESCs perform and tune much like a BL32. Cant wait to see the next in the series, these have been great videos.
Thank you!! I always run BlueJay when I get an 8-bit ESC. Every drone I have with one from small to large is running it if I can get away with it, lol. I can't wait to keep making more of these!
Great job brother. I've been watching vids all week. U nailed it.
I love you bro, now I am a big fan!
well thank you so much buddy!
Bacon ninja why do I love you so much? It doesn't even make sense. Nice work brother
I blame what I can only assume is your affinity for insanity, lol :p But seriously, thank you!!
Hey now I know about bluejay! thanks
You are very welcome!! BlueJay is an absolute must for budget 8bit ESC's!
As usual, learned more haha. Thank you so much for all of your lessons haha. Appreciate you dude!
You are very welcome!! Thank you for always being so supportive and leaving me great comments!
@@BaconNinjaFPV ha anytime! Love your videos! Literally check every morning when I wake up haha. You are slowly becoming my new Bardwell for technical info. I dont make a ton of money, and generally spend about 99% of my extra money on FPV stuff, but I will always squeeze in whatever support I can afford for your channel! You have come a long way already. Keep up the good work!
I been running the factory tune on my build with Bardwell rates. I love the higher rates than I was using. I think my old rates was 600..so of I dump your tune that doesn't affect the rates? If it does I could do your cli dump and just use Bardwell rates.?
Great video,thanks bro...
Thank you very much!
What a killer set of videos! Thank you so much for doing this, you're a champ.
Thank you so much!! I really enjoyed making these. I am hoping to do another series soon on a sub 250 freestyle build if I can get a good parts list worked out.
That was a great informative video bro,
Also test if the failsafe is working by turning off the transmitter the quad should stop working!
I’m setting up my Vtx in low power at first arm so if I’m far away and I have to disarm (crash) I still have the fixed power and a video link.
Stay safe
Thank you my friend!! Good point on testing the failsafe. I should have covered that in here, but having done it so many times I guess I just kind of glossed over it personally and anticipated that it would work due to the CLI dump. For sure test it!! I think LPD on at least that first arm is a great idea, and I totally get why you would want it to remain at full power after a crash. I just usually crash in such tall and dry grass that I worry a bit about starting a fire, lol. I also find that I can kind of use my patch antennas as a location finder if it drops down to low power since pointing it at where the quad hit is the only way to get video back. I could see really needing it to stay full power if you get stuck on a roof or something though, lol.
Thank you another great video man!
you are very welcome!
Another great informative video
Thank you!
Thank you for this! I just got this speedybee stack and was wondering why the bidirectional dshot wasn't working... Keep the videos coming!
you are very welcome!! The SpeedyBee F405 V3 has to be the best budget stack you can get right now, and I sure hope you enjoy it with that full bidirectional dshot from Blue Jay!
I've heard that stack, particularly the esc had some problems with Bluejay, what's about it..?
@@romis3 Mine has worked pretty good so far? But I don't really push my stuff and I think I'm probably on the stock pids and they seem fine.
I saw in a video (dont remember where) that speedy bee did not ship ESCs with bluejay because of inconsistent reliability.
I haven't seen anything about that, but it could have had something to do with the v2 series of their boards. The v3 fixed quite a few things and I would say the reliability is much much better than it was in the v2 days.
When I go to set up my arm switch, I see that the throttle is registering on beta flight, but when I flip the switch to select it to arm, nothing happens. I’ve tried troubleshooting, but I havnt found anything.
it sounds like you may not have your switches mapped on your radio in the mixes section. here is a little article from Oscar Liang on how to get those in there. It is a bit old, but it is still valid. oscarliang.com/setup-switch-opentx/
good video mate , thanks
When I'm loading the CLI file from your budget build diff file, it shows a couple of errors while executing and isn't saving. Could you help me with this?
Those errors are hold overs from betaflight 4.3 going into a newer 4.4 version. There should be two of them, and if you just type save after it is done it should save everything just fine :) It only keeps it from being saved automatically. I am going to also uploaded a BF 4.4 config dump very soon to keep those errors from coming up at all.
What happens if my flight controller when flashing the new betaflight software disconnects and says failed to open serial port while attempting to flash?
it sounds like when BF is telling the FC to reboot in to DFU mode for flashing, either it isn't actually booting into that mode or the DFU drivers aren't working for some reason. I would try manually putting it in flashing mode (usually powering up while holding a boot button) and then using the "no reboot required" slider so that BF doesn't try to reboot it into that mode. If that doesn't work, I would try putting the FC into DFU mode manually again and then use the ImpluseRC driver fixer to fix up whatever DFU mode driver issues are going on there.
Can you post the PID roll table of fc speedybee f405 v3? thank you.
Hi Bacon, SpeedyBee F405 v3 flight controller receiver pads have one pad labeled RS, what is that?
Good catch up there! That pad is specialized for some very particular receivers which have an RSSI output pad. You would connect your receivers RSSI output to that pad so that the FC would be aware of it for use in OSD and other alarms :)
I used 1855kv motor instead of 1800kv you recommend, and it is abit hot when I hovered it is there a way to fix it?
For sure! If it doesn't have any bounce back when you are doing flips and rolls, then the heat won't be from having too much D gain. If it does bauble a little at the end of a flip or roll, I would go down by .5 on the master slider (to the left) in the PID tab. If it doesn't have them though, it is most likely filters. In the filters tab of the PID tab, I would move the Dterm filtering slider to the left by one click at a time until you find a point at which the heat gets within reason.
PLEASE HELP.
I've flushed the ESC but forgot to press "Disconnect". Now the esc-configurator isn't loading the settings when I press "Read Settings" and the sound that the chip was previously making when connected to the battery disappeared
I loaded the cli file and got to many errors.
Invalid resource name servo , camera control
Invalid name
Osd stat max spd off
osd stat endbatt = on
Osd stat used mah =off
Osd stst bb_no
Error in rateprofile 4 outside of 0..3
Rateprofile 5
Save configuration error
Please help me to figure this out
Unfortunately betaflight has change some naming conventions since this video came out and it does cause these errors :( Good news is none of them actually impact any of the function! Once you get the CLI loaded, just type save and hit enter. That will force it to save and ignore those lines that had problems.
@@BaconNinjaFPV thankyou 😁🎉
in the newest build of bluejay it disables pwm dithering....why is this and shoulod I just leave it disbled now??
I am guessing that the dithering had some kind of negative impact, most likely something to do with thrust output or motor heat. It isn't suuuuper important to have since it is just there to provide a little more smoothness and resonance rejection. If it is coming stock that way now, I would absolutely just leave it off :)
Every time I try to load the CLI, it errors out and doesn't progress. I can't control or test motors at this point and am starting to pull out my hair. Halp?
Bro, I have assembled a drone with FC that matches the video. But when I plugged in the 6s battery it detected only 1s in betaflig. Or the voltage detected is only 4 volts, not 22 volts. How do you fix this, bro? Please help bro
Helpful video bro! Thanks for the upload. Just earned yourself a sub 🙏🏽
Thank you! I really appreciate it, and I hope it saves someone out there a little time.
Hi bacon, so i have run into an issue you may be able to help with the f405 v3 i have installed into my build. When i plug in to attempt to conig the esc on esc configurtator i get the error - Port already in use by another application - try re-connecting. Also when the usb is plugged in i only get one red led light next to the usb port on the stack. I am also getting issues when i try and connect to the speedy bee app, the app finds the f405 v3 but when i click connect i keep getting an error saying connect fail please restart your device try to get closer to the device and connect again.
I built a drone and cannot get full power to the motors. I am using the the speedybee f405 v3 stack with 350-750kv motors and bluejay. I got the power to increase in the esc on the esc link you had, but it isn't half of what I should have. Is there a setting in beta flight to fix this? thanks.
Did you show anywhere how did you bind the camera and the VTX to the Googles? And can I bind it to my mobilephone instead of the googles?
Is it possible to simply use all of these settings and do these steps when using 4S LiPos?
hey bacon when I put the diff file in it throws errors. then you said in another comment to type save and I did and then quad no longer rotated in the model and my throttle inputs wouldn't work anymore. What should I do?
Hey! Yeah the diff will turn off the accelerometer since this is set up to fly in acro and the acc is only used for other modes like horizon. That will make your display not move since it is based on the position of the accelerometer rather than the gyro, but it saves some CPU cycles and makes sure you have more head room for the PID loop and filtering to operate correctly :) As for the throttle inputs, since those were wet up prior to loading the diff the settings they were using before were likely different somehow than the way I have this quad laid out. It may be that the port you have your receiver on isn't the one that I used in the build or that you protocol in the receiver tab is something different than serial so check those two places and I bet you find it.
@@BaconNinjaFPV Thank you so much for the quick turn around!!!
If I used the emax ecoII motors on this build rather than the Iflight xing 2208 motors that you used, will this pid tune still work? The xing motors are back orderd at the moment and Idk how long that will last. Do you think I should just wait and the xing motors, or would the emax motors be just as good. also, if the answer is to get the eco motors, than which kv sould I buy them in to match the kv of the xings- the xings are listed as 1800kv (suposedly they are actually lower than that in reality btw), but the ecos only come in 1700 or 1900. Thanks! Sorry for the long comment.
Absolutely! The Eco II in the same size are a great swap out for with the Xing is out of stock. I would go with the 1700kv variant to give you a little more headroom for safety on the tune. Going hotter than 1800kv may put it in a position to be more noisy and wobbly than it would be otherwise, but going down on the kv is much safer. Sorry it took me so long to get back to you on this one. My computer has been kind of a wreck and I just now got it all worked out, lol.
Hi, I've followed your tutorial and when using the CLI dump I've ran into a few errors. I am using a more recent BetaFlight version as it is recommended. Do I just skip the CLI, is it needed? Thanks
Always a great question! When loading that CLI file you will see some errors for sure due to version differences between Betaflight that was available when I did this and newer releases. Good news is you can just type save and hit enter to accept the changes :) None of the errors are critical to function or will mess up anything with the configuration of your flight controller, so accepting them is safe. You will for sure need the CLI though since it has the tune and other pre-set options to work with the selected parts and where those parts are soldered to the board.
@@BaconNinjaFPV I've used the CLI and the accelerometer is not working. The instruments on Betaflight do not react to tilting the drone. Should I be worried about this or would it just be a betaflight issue with the errors and not affect real flight.
Does Bluejay allow you to run DSHOT? The F405 v3 manual says the FC only supports MULTISHOT and ONESHOT12T.
could you point me in the right direction, at which point in the video do you add your custom tune to the drone, or is it when you do the elrs stuff toward the end
19:08 Truth! Lmao 🤣
lololol, hey sometimes you just have to tell the truth and hold on!
I can't load the software on all 4 ESCs. they only land for two. the rest are unknown
Usually that is going to be an issue with the USB cable you are using. I would try a couple of other ones and see if you don't get different results :)
I just finished a build and mine pops when i plug in the battery is that normal
I’ve finished all my flashing, and my drone seems good, but I can’t connect my goggles with my drone. I plugged my drone into betaflight to see what band and channel it’s on and set my goggles to it, but I don’t see anything. Do you have any ideas of what it could be? I’m using the flysight falcon fg01.
What RF receiver module are you running in those falcons? It sounds like for some reason that receiver isn't jiving with the VTX table in betaflight.
@@BaconNinjaFPV I’m using the fat shark next wave rf.
Do these steps also work for a rush tank ii ultimate and a 4s battery? Or is there anything I'd have to change
It should work for the most part! The wiring diagram should be close to the same as far as the VTX goes, you will just have to reference which pin is which on the Rush's connector to make sure they all wind up where they need to go. As far as 4S, everything about this should be fine as long as you are running motors with a high enough KV to accommodate the pack voltage :)
@BaconNinjaFPV awesome thanks for replying so fast! I have another question... so I need a antenna for the rush vtx and I see some are lhcp and some are rchp which would I need if I'm using betafpv vr03 Goggles? Could i just get any antenna for the vtx (having the proper male/female end of course)
Did you have tuned your geprc mark 5? Can you share your dump with me??
I do!! But before you use it, my Mark5 isn't a factory built one and the tune I am using is pretty specific to my quad. I am running 2208 motors with low pitch props at 1800kv and an all up weight around 730g. If that sounds like your quad, then it may work for you. Let me know and I can load it up to google drive for you!
Hey @Bacon Ninja FPV, I have windows 11. I am able to connect to betaflight configurator no problem, able to change all modes and vtx tables and do all that. It won’t let me flash though. When I download firmware and hit flash it says no serial port available. Do you know a fix for this? I haven’t heard of this issue on windows 11 or 10. Very sad)’:
well at least it is half way working! lol. There are a few things that could be causing this. First one is maybe the no reboot sequence slider is on in your flashing window. That will keep the FC from rebooting into bootloader mode and since we are doing all of this from the regular booted side of the FC that reboot sequence is necessary. I would double check that you have that one off just to make sure. If that is off, then it could be drivers. These are the STM32 bootloader drivers for x86/64 that you will need to install www.st.com/en/development-tools/stsw-stm32102.html and then reboot your PC after that completes. Let me know if any of that works for you!
When I put the file onto the cli on betaflight, it’s coming up with errors. Could it be because I’m using the latest betaflight configurer as well as the latest bluejay, which are newer than the ones you used at the time of making the video?
it is for sure because of the way 4.4 handles a few things. The errors you are getting are related to the barometer and magnetometer though, so they are negligible. After you run the config, just type save at the end to override the error window and you should be good! I should have a 4.4 safe CLI file for it soon though :)
@@BaconNinjaFPV Thank you so much for answering all my questions! They have been very helpful.
@@BaconNinjaFPV thank you lord and savior
Did you ever fix "the no dataflash chip found"?
Hey man, tried flashing the exact same stack, i can now only see the first esc, the rest say unknown. Any ideea? P.s. all the motors spin, so the esc works. Thank you!
This tutorial has been great so far! Just wondering, though should I load the same CLI Diff file, because some of my hardware is different; I have different 6S motors (ecomax) and a different cam (caddex rattel). I'm guessing since both my fc, esc, and vtx are the same I should be good?
the diff should be just fine for your setup :) the motor KV/voltage is fine with the base tune I have on that CLI since I made it super safe and your camera wont mind anything that gets set with it. You will probably notice some errors when you load it if you use BF 4.4 or higher, so just remember type save and hit enter at the end to for save it after pasting. They changed some wording and a few setting limits, but none of the errors are anything that isn't going to need a default value anyway.
Please suggest a budget goggles!
For budget goggles in the price range of this quad, I would suggest the Eachine EV800DM or the Emax Transport 2 goggles. Both are box style and both are just basic diversity, but they get the job done!
Which melody did you used am searching for it over and over websites please can you share a copy of it ? Actually I liked it so much tried finding and making it but was unable too
I am pretty sure I am using the Emperial March which is just right inside the melody editor drop down within the Blue Jay configurator. Makes it super easy since they have a whole library right there to choose from :)
@@BaconNinjaFPV thankyou soo much
I just built this same drone except I used 4s motors Xing-e 2207-2450kv when installing the CLI into beta flight configuration tool I get two errors that say
"Invalid resource name: servo'###
Invalid resource name: 'camera_control'###
Bacon. Please help. I’ve been through part 4 of your series - but I have a Taranis 9+ 2019 with a Happy Model Elrs back & elrs receiver. I have never done any of this before, bought everything to go thru your build. Can I not use the Taranis radio with your wiring for the Elrs Tx & Rx??? The ES24Tx Pro Tx and EP1 Rx. So I continued on, your Diff file had 4 errors. I setup HM Tx & Rx watching Josh B for how to flash. Setup via WiFi. So, when I move the sticks they don’t register in BetaFlight. So could be my wiring but is this why you said throw the radio out the window? Also betaflight says there is no VTX so maybe my soldering? Please help me understand and where to look for info and I will be grateful
Little more ... I can see the receiver is connected to the radio. Using the Back bay module HappyModel 2400 Pro. when I turn the drone on and off I can hear the radio say that it loses and regains connection. I re-soldered, so that _shouldn't_ be the problem. Is there a reason why Taranis x9d+ 2019 with a HappyModel ELRS module won't work where your other radio with an ELRS module does? Do I really have to throw away the radio? I bought it just for creating a DIY drone .. would prefer not to have to buy a whole new radio ... please advise
this is some perfect question timing!!! I actually just did a video about ELRS trouble shooting that may be able to point you in the right direction. ruclips.net/video/ho4vLbu3H8U/видео.html Also, if your radio is saying telemetry lost and is connected, that is a good sign. It may actually be that your radio and receiver are too close to eachother when you are working on it and the transmitter is actually deafening the receiver causing a disconnect. If you aren't getting stick inputs though and you have a solid light on the receiver when your radio is connected, the last section of this video may help you out!
@@BaconNinjaFPV So ... On my v405v3 by SpeedyBee, I moved where some of the wiring was on your wiring diagram ... so I moved the receiver to R2 & T2 (Upper-Right corner, above the USB-C and on the same side) along with G & 4V5. I moved the VTX (which wouldn't connect no matter what I did) to the VTX & T1 (beneath the SpeedyBee words and in the center) and G & 5V. Now, when I connect in my battery (with the smoke-saver, of course, since I changed wiring / soldering) and USB cable to BetaFlight, I get STICK movements & the VTX shows connected. I have the mapping as TAER1234, and see movements on the graphs.
What I have to now figure out .. I don't see switch movements. I almost bought a new radio because it wasn't working, but now it is working, and I'm much more happier ....!
Question. Do I load the one drive as well? Cuz not sure how to find it lol. Newish to hobby
will the cli dump with tune work for the v4 55amp stack?
Hi crusty old bush pilot here and new to all this but can you use inav instead of beta flight?
Hi bacon could you do a short video on how to download and install the vtx table in betaflight,
Thanx
Thanks again for putting this build together for all of us. Ours turned out awesome with one issue. I was curious if you had any input on this. We’ve been ripping this pretty hard and seem to keep breaking the mid plate. The original one lasted two weeks with pretty hard, flying and crashing, but since then we have broken two more. We’re not flying around concrete or anything just smashing into tree branches mostly. It just seems like a odd place for this frame to be cracking. I was wondering if you had any thoughts on this. Is it that we just need to buy a sturdier frame? This frame seems pretty tough. Anyways thanks again for all the help.
hmmmmmm, that is pretty odd!!! Are all of the replacement plates from the same store? It is possible that they got a bad batch of carbon or something...or that the tolerances are off for some reason and it is putting too much pressure right there on that plate. Tree crashes really shouldn't be breaking this thing at all, but I do know since it is an open source budget design the manufacturing does vary a little bit between runs.
@@BaconNinjaFPV Yes, all of the kits are from GETFPV. I bet that they are from the same batch. Thanks for replying, your perspective of the situation is helpful. The quad has been awesome, great tune. Great experience for us instead of buying a pre-built. We learned so much before even the first flight.
I hate my hp laptop. It's helped me brick my first bind n fly, thank God this stack is better. It won't flash via USB, I'm going to figure out how to flash via Bluetooth.
heyy man i built mine! thank you! Just one question: i connected my elrs reciever to the same UART as urs, however i have to plug in the battery in order for it to turn on. Shldn't it also power up via USB?
Is SpeedyBee BLS 50A 30x30 use bluejay as default firmware or you flashed it outside this video?
The default firmware on the SB BLS ESC is BLHeli_S, but we do flash BlueJay to it in this video :) I believe I had previously flashed mine with bluejay before showing everyone how to do it here if you were wondering why mine may have had it on it before that part of the video.
When entering the esc-configurator page.. Do I have to connect the battery to the drone? Sorry, I do not speak much English.
By the way, my engines are spark hobby 1750kv, the configuration you used will work for me?
Thanks :D
No problem!! Yup, you sure do have to have a pack plugged in to connect to your ESC. Just be sure to have your props off in case the ESC decides to do something funny. As for the motor KV, that should be just fine since it is very near the 1800kv I am running here.
@@BaconNinjaFPV Perfect, and lastly, if I'm using an Sbus FrSky receiver (jumper t-lite), would I have to change something in the CLi file?
Hey! Great build! I have a question tho, can you program the drone with normal code? Thanks!
What should I change if I have 2306 1700kv motors in this build ?
It should fly just fine, even with the tune. It may be a little light on the PIDs, but better that than be over tuned :)
If I'm going to do the 4s build version of this with all the exact same components, can I apply the same tune or will it have to be different?
If you run 4S on very near 2400kv motors ( the 2450kv Xing E Pro will do it ) then the tune should be very very close. If anything it would just be a click one way or the other on the master slider to adjust for any amp draw sag from the higher amps 4S pulls under load.
How did you get the star wars esc initialization beeps?
I'll be making this drone without the need for a camera. Is it possible to fly a camera-less version of this drone legally, but without a permit? Where can I go to find this information?
If you are talking about it fitting in the 250g limit that exists in the US (and some other places) unfortunately it will be above that in almost every possible way to build it :( The LiPo alone weighs nearly 200g, and just the weight of the frame would put you over the limit at that point. If you really want a solid shot at meeting that weight limit in a 5" build, the Ummagawd 2fiddy is designed just for that and can be built to stay right under the line with specific components :)
@@BaconNinjaFPV Thanks so much for the reply and the tips! The drone I end up getting needs to be partially made, but still have some spots for young students to solder to get practice with electronics. I found two options for this, but they both require modification, meaning I'll have to source a custom drone and make the kits myself, which I may just end up doing. I'm curious if you know of any smaller, non-racing drone kits out there for this type of thing?
@@junosprite007 Absolutely! For students the BetaFPV Cetus, Cetus, and Cetus X kits are a great all in one way to get FPV drones in their hands that are small and safe. Emax also makes some beginner kits, particularly their TinyHawk 3 one that are in the same category.
While trying to flash the diff file from betafilght i get 2 errors: # # save configuration
# save
###ERROR IN save: ERRORS WERE DETECTED - PLEASE REVIEW BEFORE CONTINUING###
###ERROR IN save: PLEASE FIX ERRORS THEN 'SAVE'###
# #
# #
# # diff all
How to handle this?
I just want
to say thank you for all your videos they are a huge help. I am just building a 5" iflight Evoque f5x v2 with the speedy bee 20x20 f405 35amp stack and xing 2306 2450kv motors and wanted to know could I use the same rates file you have for this stack? Sorry for the newbie questions I am using dji vista Thanks in advance
mine isn't behaving well with BlueJay, it keeps going into death roll after 3 - 10 seconds of flight, flash it back to BLHeli and it flies ok again, so i am guessing it has to be something to do with a BlueJay or 4.4BF setting, which includes Bidirectional dshot 300 and rpm filtering, but can't find the answer just yet.
hmmmm, that sounds like a desync to me and that could absolutely have something to do with the config on bluejay. Mine seems to stay in the air on bluejay, although pretty shaky the whole time, lol. Did you happen to see what the timing settings were in bluejay last time you flashed over?
@@BaconNinjaFPV yeah desync finally, and maybe on the edge of desync during the part of flight where it was running, it did feel aggressive, the timing was on low, i think there were three options "off" "low" and "high", the flight on BLHeli is much smoother, when using stock pids, i notice my scaled gyro is rough on black box, but in fairness i dont have much filtering, i will add some more to help the motor v frequency higher range 180 - 500
Hey! My cli dump ran into a servo and camera control issue, it could not find those. I hit save, I hope it's nothing important, but I wanted to check (im using BF 4.4.3) Thank you for the videos, it has been a journey for me making my first build :)
see bacon's reply to joshuayang2369
@@misterchief7361thanks
Is the CLI outdated since posting this?
What uart port is the vtx ?
If you are working off of my wiring diagram in the Google Drive link, your VTX's IRC connection should be to TX1 of UART1 for the build :)
Thank you very much for this. Was very helpfull. Question... Can I change to dshot 300 (betaflight) after the ESC flash to bluejay? I flashed with dshot 600
Where I can find link to 3D print of antena mount and elrs reciver ? You use lilipop 95mm Long ? Do u think the shorter one 65mm will work to ?
I have all of the 3D files in the resource folder for the build on my google drive. Here is a link to it! bit.ly/3UbEDuN As for the antenna, I believe the 65mm has no straw on it at all and is just coax from the MMCX up to the bulb. The holder for this one really needs some straw to hold on to and keep the antenna upright. You may be able to use the 65mm, but it would most likely require a different antenna mount with a button hole to snap the antenna into rather than using the straw to grip it like I am doing with the 95mm.
@@BaconNinjaFPV thx for fast answer !!;) im going to use 2306 motors, do your CLI and props from this build will be ok on them ?
Hey man can u put some 3d printing stl files on here?
I put them in the resource files link so all of it would be in the same spot :) bit.ly/3UbEDuN
I’m getting an issue with my crossfire sixty9 vtx with beta flight after importing your settings. What do I do
so since the 69 will have a different VTX table in BF than the TX800 that I used in the build and have in the config files, you will need to upload a VTX table for that one. You can either find the table on TBS's website and use a JSON file to import it, or you should be able to find one in the presets tab of BF if you search around in the VTX section a bit :)
@@BaconNinjaFPV thank you. Do I need to remove the wrong imported vtx settings? Or will the new vtx tables replace the wrong ones? Thanks again for your help!
Will this tune work for 2207 4s motors?
it should as long as you stick to mid range Kv motors in the 4S zone. The 2450kv version of the same Xing E motors I am running on this one should do just fine for it!
Thank u gud sir got the tmotors 2207 2400kv @Bacon Ninja fpv much appreciated 🙏
I unknowingly built your budget drone. Thank you for your help in clearing up some of my questions post what I thought was right. One question if you will; what is the procedure for arming the speedy bee? Either I missed something or nowhere is it mentioned. Thank you.
Bacon, I need some greasy advice. I got the Darwin240 and replaced the stack with the SpeedyBee stack that I was originally gonna put in my Emax Buzz and had a question for you. Being that this is a 4S build, would you change anything about the FC/ESC firmware or CLI to accommodate not being 6S?
As for it not being 6S, no there really isn't anything you have to do in BetaFlight to compensate for it. The motors and pack voltage work together to provide a kind of "gearing" that give the props the same general tip speed on 4S that you would get with different KV motors on 6S, so essentially the same. As for the swap, did you load up the CLI dump from darwin or did you just get all of the ports going and leave the tune on BF defaults? I was just going to mention that the CLI dump Darwin provides wont be for that board and will likely have some issues if you pasted it on the SpeedyBee.
@@BaconNinjaFPV I flashed the newest BF/BJ firmware and that's it, so far. I'd actually gotten to the CLI dump and waited to hear back from you to see what you had to say, since this is somewhat different to what you're doing(not really, I didn't source the motors, VTX and camera 😅). Sounds like I can continue to follow right along with the video on 4S, though.
My solder joints could be better, but my first stack swap didn't trigger the smoke stopper, so I'm pretty pumped about that. Thanks for your insight, Bacon!
@@CaptainKush420 ah, good call on waiting! Yeah you can basically just move forward with the video from that point. You will need to figure out what UART your receiver is connected to and what your VTX smart audio is on since it will be different than my build guide, but just swap those numbers in where necessary. Always a good sign when your first swap doesn't let the magic smoke out! lol
Can you build your own radio?
Oh no ? I have and error on my CLI Dump?
Sorry, in the vídeo you explain how to conect phoenix 2 to ant gogles? Can i Connect to ant goggles? Or have na especific?
I am not sure what you meant by ant goggles, but maybe you mean any goggles? If so, yes the analog VTX I am using for this will connect to any analog goggles with a 5.8ghz receiver in them. As for if it is north america specific, that just depends on the video format you choose in the OSD menu within Betaflight. You can specify NTSC for north america, or PAL for the rest of the world. I hope that helps!
Oh, thanks, is that. Can you recomend me any analogic goggles for a begginer in fpv drone?
Another, thing, in the motor, how Can I know what Kv to chose, i Will use the same ESC and FC that you use
Nice build series. Great job. For the receiver setup, roll midpoint looks out of range? Maybe some advice for subtrim or rxrange (if endpoints are off also)? At least that is what I do with BF setups, hopefully not wrong 🤣
I really just need to re-calibrate my sticks, lol. It has been a really long time and I bet the center point has just slightly changed since these gimbals were brand new. They are plenty wore in now and it is worth re-calibrating. I was going to get into the rxrange adjustments, but I figured that if someone had done a BNF before with an ELRS link, they should probably have already adjusted those ranges for their radio. Maybe I will throw together a separate video for that and the ELRS flashing just for those who are very very new to those things!
Ehm after several Others Problems and issues , i loaded the diff file and the tune file but now i have No more flightmodes available at all.if i Arm and Start giving throttle, the Quad jumps a Second yaws a bit and falls Back to bottom ,Motors Stop. I really would appreciate If anyone could Help
I am sorry ou are having trouble with it :( The diff file sets the tune as well, and the only mode it sets up is acro. As for the flip out when you throttle up, that is usually a motor direction problem or the props being on wrong. You might run through the motor direction steps in the video one more time, and double check that your props are installed in a props out orientation as that is how this one is set up. Let me know how those things go for you, and I hope it fixes it!
@@BaconNinjaFPV i Triple Check(Ed) my Motors and doubt Its the props but will Check IT and give a Feedback. But why are there Not even flightmodes to See in BF how did U get rid of them in this tune .via cli commands ?
@@Raven-FPV If it doesn't turn out to be the props, I would go into the config tab in BF and enable the accelerometer. Once you do that, disconnect the quad, unplug the USB, then plug the USB back in and connect back to BF. In the setup tab you should see a virtual model of the quad. Pick it up and turn it on all of its axises to make sure the model responds in the correct direction on each one. It may be possible that somehow your FC orientation is doing something funny. As for the modes, having just acro/air mode enabled is essentially the lack of all modes. Modes aren't technically set up in BF so much as they are just assigned to switches and activated when you toggle them. You can absolutely add them back if you want them by setting the appropriate switch in the modes tab to something on your radio to enable it. If you are wanting to use angle mode, just be sure to also leave your accelerometer on in the config tab. I had all of that disabled to save CPU cycles on this board since it is just an F4 chip.
@@BaconNinjaFPV i need To learn more and Better about All this. Thanks for your Help and reply man.appreciate it a Lot . How do i add them cause i cant See them Like normally in the left Side to really ADD a range towards Horizon or Angle for instance .All i See ist the Others stuff Like beeper , Flip a.crash n stuff. Its to overwhelming sometime when you gather Infos and knowledge
@@Raven-FPV No problem at all!! I just want to see you get it in the air and have fun :) I think what you are seeing there is the "hide unused modes" option selected. There should be a little slider above all of the modes for it. Just click that off and then you should see all of the extra modes come up on there. As for how to add a range to them, that should be basically the same as how I did them in the video just with the particular one you are wanting to add. You can always hit up the discord server too since there are quite a few people who have built them on there and sometimes replies over there are faster too :)
My build is getting a runcam wasp 😂
Can’t wait for that video!
Will the tune be much different?
It sure is coming! The tune won't really be different at all, we will just be relocating the VTX wires to the DJI plug and setting MSP up for Display Port OSD.
@@BaconNinjaFPV then I should be okay if the video comes out after I start the build but will be watching regardless 👌
Can I use this tune with my Gemfan winders 5043 props
Those props will have quite a bit more thrust for KV than what I am using here, so I wouldn't recommend using this tune without some tweaking. Unfortunately it all relates to the motors and the Kv of them as well, so I can't really tell you what that tweaking should be either :( In general though, if you were going to try this I would start with the master slider moved down to at least 0.8 to make sure it is safe, then move it up 0.5 at a time. After you get that in range, you would probably also need to adjust the P and D sliders to get the balance back into place again.
@@BaconNinjaFPV think the stock beta flight tune will be good for a freestyle beginner
@@BaconNinjaFPV I’ll get a set of the props you have so the tune will work
@@SuzukiQuadLife anything you like in the 5"-5.1" range with pitch from 3.4-3.8 should do the trick!
@@BaconNinjaFPV so 5034 5038 or 5134 or 5138
Hey Bacon Ninja FPV!
Thank you for the awesome tutorials!!
When trying to execute the CLI Diff, there are a few error popping up in the CLI, and due to that, the flight. Controller doesn’t restart what can i do to overcome this problem?
Since the config file was created on BF 4.3, loading it on a 4.4 is a bit different and some of those config lines don't quite do the same things anymore due to feature changes they made. Good news is, just typing save after it gets done loading the config forces the changes to write and the FC to reboot :) the errors that it is throwing are for things like the barometer and magnetometer which won't have any impact to the function of the board, so forcing it to save is perfectly safe. I am working on an update to the CLI files so that anyone loading 4.4 will be able to use a config file specifically for that and not throw these errors anymore. Well, at least until BF puts out a version 4.5 anyway, lol.
great video, just one question. im running a bit of a different setup and its my first drone so im a bit confused, instead of applying custom defaults and using your tune what should i do? is there a general tune i should use out there? ours are pretty similar the only difference is im running eco 2 2306 motors and a 4s lipo instead
Thank you!! So for that what I would do is still load the custom defaults so that all of your uarts map to the MCU pins like they are supposed to, but I just wouldn't load my CLI dump. You will have to go in and manually set things in the ports tab, receiver tab, config tab, and VTX tab, but there are a ton of vids out there on how to do that. As long as you don't do a tune dump, it will keep the Betaflight defaults which really aren't bad at all and should get you in the air!
@Bacon Ninja FPV sounds good thank you!
Is there a good tune dump for this… I have not upgraded to the blue jay software.. and it seems to run fine! I as well have 2306 2400kv motors on mine! I can run the quad with a full sized go pro with no issues… but should I upgrade the firmware to blue jay?
why are you using dshot 300 not 600?
Good question! The latency difference between dshot 300 and 600 is only 25 nanoseconds, so there isn't really any benefit to it in reality. It is better to run 300 with an F4 processor to get back a little of the MCU overhead and lower the chances of corrupt packets since we are using bidirectional shot for this one.
@@BaconNinjaFPV I see. what gyro and pid loop speed are u running? I’m trying to sort out by black box logging having gaps in the log and i wandered if that could be the problem.
@@rorymace I am running 3.2k on both since the BMI270 maxes out at that refresh rate. For the logging gaps....I've had that happen too :( usually it is the SD card you are using. It is weird to say, but the cheaper the card the better it logs, lol. Just make sure it is small (I run a 32gb since I can't find smaller), is an SD or HC rated card, and you have formatted it in fat16 or 32. If you go to the SpeedyBee product page they have a piece of software the recommend for the formatting you could try as well.
@@BaconNinjaFPV I’ll try that software but it’s strange because I’ve tried a few cards and had the same problem with all of them.
Well I used bluejay and beatalight 4.4 with Bidirectional dshot 300 and rpm filtering DEATH ROLL went back to blhelis works perfect no Bidirectional dshot or rpm filtering :(
hmmmm, Which PWM did you wind up going with and did you happen to try setting demag compensation to high in BlueJay to see if that stopped the desync? BLHeliS handles things a little differently so it is possible there just wasn't enough demag timing on BlueJay to handle something funny going on with the motor/esc causing the roll and BLHeliS has just enough to compensate.
@@BaconNinjaFPV I went with 48k has im using 03 did not change anything was your default settings mate shall I try something more id be glad to try something its easy to go back :)
Ports?