This post got my attention as back in the mid 60's my dad bought me a .177 caliber pellet gun. I was not aware of dieseling but as a pretty inventive youngster I would pour a drop of lighter fluid into the piston and discharge my rifle. This brought back a bunch of memories :)
I mixed vaseline with 3in1 oil, I put 1 pellet in the magazine and with a cotton swab I spread a little "oil/vas" on the pellet, then the next etc. I use for one mag 1min. the power is extreme
I got my first air rifle from my Dad for my 8th birthday back in 1985. It was a Daisy Model 120 break-action spring-air .177 cal pellet rifle. At the time, I figured it would be a good idea to lube it on occasion using some 3-in-1 oil. I noticed, though, that it would blow a puff of smoke and make a slightly louder noise right after oiling it. I can still remember that smell, lol. I had no idea what was going on at the time, so, it's nice to finally get the rest of the story. I'm 46 now and this video prompted me to walk over to the closet to pull that old rifle out. It's still in great shape! I can't tell you the last time I actually fired it, but I'm starting to get the urge to take it out to the range.
Back then, they used hard cowhide leather! Oil it up again! Tanke er out an enjoy it! It'll be ok. Oil inside something that that last forever! I purchased an really old UK made air rifle 25 yrs ago, but it was made in the turn of the 20th century. Someone 100 yrs ago oiled it an it still had oil inside it! Works to this day2023! No BS. My old 50 yr old Chinese breaker barrel still works great too! Soooo
@@eddiecahall3824 I ran some oil down inside of the air cylinder…hoping it made it down to the leather seal. I tried to disassemble the cylinder, but it didn’t seem to want to come apart easily and I didn’t want to risk damaging something beyond repair. I’m gonna give it a try later on!
Tried this in my old Chinese B1 .22 cal break barrel. Works great! Normally this gun shoots around 420fps, and now with WD-40 in the tin of pellets, I checked across the chrono and it's shooting around 525fps which is great! Thank you for this tip!
We used WD-40 in the mid seventies. I had a crosman 767 pump that shot about 500 fps. I sprayed my barrel and soaked the pellets. That little rifle could hunt jack rabbits. Didn't have a Chrono back then but you could here the difference in thump on hard targets . People say it will destroy your gun. I dieseled thousands of rounds in that cheap gun and it's in my closet today with the original seals.
Mine definitely doesn't have THAT much use, but yeah my gun is perfectly fine after several years doing this now, and hundreds of dieseled rounds later I'm sure there's some possibility for damage, but I haven't had any yet.
Up here in Canada all we are allowed is a max of around 500fps. I was wondering if it would work with the tuned down pellet guns we have up here. Since it worked for you, I might give it a try with mine.
I've got a really big backyard but my fence is only about 4 ft so I can't go shooting in my backyard yet. I can't believe the things I've seen people do that are so dangerous, it's awesome to see you took that many precautions so nothing bad could happen!👍
I mean if you shoot low I don't see why you couldn't use your fence as a backstop Or just standup a sheet of plywood against the fence then you have an 8 foot tall section
@@PelletPlinker people live close to me and will not like seeing me shooting plus there is a kids park 40 feet directly behind my backyard or i would just shoot low. i dont want any problems.
I get dieseling by dropping 3-in-one general purpose oil straight into the piston chamber , it gives me about 3 extremely powerful shots, you can tell the pellets go supersonic on a .22
@@PelletPlinker Is 3in1 a good substitute for just barrel oil? I want to put some barrel oil in to lube up the barrel but everything I've looked up online says to use silicone pellet gun oil specifically and only from the exact brand that makes the pellet gun. 3in1 has never failed me before used it for all sorts of stuff over the years. Just figured I'd ask the lads that really know
i used my Camo magnum, he has a nice mag, you need only a tiny bit oil and thanks to how the mag is build the oil stay in the slug, i could not measure the speed, but i could hear and see the damage he has done to my plywood!! i think it was surely 20% increase
Another fun thing which doesn't damage the gun is to araldite a small pistol primer on to the nose of a .22 pellet. Great against hard flat targets like a house brick. Nice flash at night too.
Another video shows an Hatsan Carnivore with vaselin on the back of the pallet. Without dieseling it did around 530 fps as I remember, and after a few dieseled shots he maxed with 740 fps! But maybe he could have even better results with less vaseline for better fuel/air mixture.
Oh yeah it cranked up speed, im 63 and got a daisy 880 pump for my birthday, just like the one I had when I was 9 years old, we didn't know about diesling back then,, I'll give it a try and come back with a progress report,, thank you very much
I was dieseling without knowing it by spraying oil into the piston cyllinder. I was wondering why the whole gun rings after some shots sounding like a supersonic crack. There was always a thick smoke in the barrel. This would work for a BB.
I just finished modding a .22 cal pellet rifle, a generic Crosman hardware store rifle called the 'F11 NP', which is restricted to < 500 fps but gets, with 14.3gr pellets, around 420 - 440 fps. Let's say I upgraded the nitro piston & the gas ram to something with more stank on it since I have my PAL & found out I'm allowed to mod these things all I want.. I've had dieseling happen a few times as i removed the piston & re-installed it over & over, occasionally adding break-barrel oil to the outside of the piston tube. I'd get dieseling almost every first shot of the next day - it felt, sounded & kicked like my 22 rimfire. I never put my first shot of the day through my chrono until today, while testing my new piston/ram combo. I still think it has to be a chrono problem - but this is the first & only time it's done this. I thought it had something to do with the gasses/sparks that fly out of the barrel or the smoke that accompanies the pellet. With a very light .22 cal pellet (Gamo Platinum 9.7gr), my chrono read 674.3 m/s (2200 fps). I'm getting consistent > 1000 FPS with .22 cal 14.66gr domed pellets & my fastest fps was 1427 fps - almost 1000 fps more than it was getting with the pathetic Canadian piston/ram combo, but the dieseling shot - is it even possible that that ~2200 fps (674.3 m/s on my chrono) was correct? Can dieseling really make a pellet go that fast? There's no way that can be safe for the gun, right? Especially with a 9.7gr pellet, which isn't really appropriate for such high power.
if it's happening in the piston chamber, theres a chance it is detonating much more fuel than just normal pellet dieseling, and so that might be why it's going so fast
@@PelletPlinker Thanks, I thoguht the source of the performance of the first 10 shots or so came from the shorter piston & 8mm shorter gas ram I installed. Much more air in the compression chamber, but with a 70kg gas ram. The only thing I added to the install was that I applied Crosman break-barrel oil, liberally, on the outside of the piston (not in the piston, the gas ram is dry). I'm only using a 3mm shim (3 washers, actually more like 3.3mm), but I'm going to have to do the math to make sure it's optimal. The barrel has to be folded much farther than it used to, but it locks great when cocked. The pellets were loud, the first one being the loudest of course - but I see now why people rely on dieseling sometimes. Must've been at least 10 shots > 1000 fps, which for a .22 is a bit too high to be accurate, or at the limit anyway (in my experience). I swear to you & your subs, though, that 674.3 m/s is accurate. After another 5 shots or so, it went down to the 900 fps range. Like I said, I had no idea those speeds were possible - I thought maybe some of the smoke or particles of oil in the spray might have confused the chrono (a cheap '2 canopy' type chrono) - but the pellet hit a 2x4 on a wooden step, smack dab on the side, and there's a bulge on the other side of it. A pellet going that fast, almost through a 2x4. "What have I done?", Iol, I was like Hatori Hanzo. Now, after 30+ shots (mostly with 14.66 gr dome shaped, but some 14.3 gr hollow point), the speeds have settled. I'm getting a consistent 700 fps+, which for this rifle is fantastic. My cheap chrono won't tell me what speeds I get with a 9.7gr pellet, but I can imagine it's 1000fps. I get the occasional 820+ fps, but the absolute lowest was 690 fps. I'm just a plinker, I don't hunt - but given the opportunity to hunt rats or crows, I'm in. The Crosman F11 NP is actually pretty good, but it really needs the upgrade of piston & gas ram (~ $110 CDN) to be worth it.
Guns need lube. Modern materials are meant to operate long times without lube. But even the og m16 was built with a chrome lined barrel that reduced projectile friction, like having lube and a non stick surface. Modern steel barrels are like a chrome moly(benidum) composite that gently wears out like led on a pencil and typically has a short break in period as the projectile removes microscopic layers of barrel until it's honed (polished) smooth. (Att: This is what I have heard in the past. This may be inaccurate as now or only applicable to certain manufacturers. I'm not sure) but quality barrels are made of different materials today and some use the best processes to create long lasting barrels even without lube. Matter of fact soft moes hardness #3 copper acts like a lubricant versus a hardened steel barrel that's more like 5~6 Moe's hardness. I can only imagine soft copper through a smooth chrome barrel and the speeds achieved by the bullet. In short though most guns need lube for the functioning parts. And I'm not really sure that dieseling generates higher pressures on the barrel or seals. My thoughts are a tighter seal from the applied lube might let less air pass there fore increasing pressure on the projectile and increasing speed OR The added lube generates a friction less environment where the full applied pressure is utilized by the projectile as less energy is wasted. Because the friction of the projectile dragging down the whole un lubricated barrel causes such drag and friction. That most of the energy is used just pushing it out. Let's say that you push a parked car in neutral with 50lbs of force. It's going to move slowly. But if you use that sam 50lbs of force while the car is on ice. It may move faster with less friction. As the tires aren't dragging on asphalt.
@@Samuel_Lipscomb Lots of great points, thank you. Update on mine, I ruined the rifle, but no big loss. I started putting slugs through the barrel, and the piston was ramming against the intake port, rather than bouncing off the compressed air - and this caused the barrel joint to almost seize - it's very tight, and the flat-head screw that holds it on is totally seized. Mission accomplished though, I wanted to see if I could mod it to get higher velocities by sourcing parts online. It worked great at around 750fps for a month, but the accuracy was off. It was good to have the pellets actually penetrate plywood rather than ricochet off of it, but I decided to just get my gun license, so now I have a cheap Crosman that gets 700fps reliably, though with alloy pellets of 9.7gr, around 850fps (advertised at 950fps). I'm using the stock from my old one, though, it's much nicer. I'm interested in a Gamo Magnum, which promises real-world (Crosman Premier 14.33gr lead pellets) velocities of ~1000fps (advertised at 1300fps). A "just at subsonic" 22 cal is all I want from a break-barrel.
Guys what you need to know about dieseling is that there must be three elements needed to make a fire, which are, fuel, heat and oxygen, which is what generates compression. The oil is fuel, the compressed air consists of heat and oxygen, hence the compression. With just a drop of oil in the skirt of the pellet will do the trick. Dieseling generates about 300 fps ( depending on the velocity of the gun) more than the normal fps of the respective gun. A .22 airgun shooting at about 950- a 1000 fps, can go up to about 1300-1400 fps when dieseled, which makes it just as lethal as a .22LR rimfire
Yes sir I can vouch for these results I have used a petroleum based lubricant that is of course flammable and it effectively turns my pellet rifle into a 22LR with how loud and powerful leaving a stream of smoke leaving my barrel. Your rifle has to be spring piston powered, will not work on a Co2 rifle as compression is needed to achieve combustion.
@@OhighoGrows A PCP doesn't really need any help as they are usually stronger than what's being done here already. But you can probably get some minor gains using lubed pellets just be sure to clean your barrel often because it will cause gunk to build up. A PCP functions much like a Co2 platform so I don't think using a combustible lubricant will get the same result.
@@Digital.Dictator I can vouch for gas rams aka Nitro pistons work with dieseling as well. Gamo Raptor whisper in 177 using 7gr wad cutter pellets sends them out there screaming. The Raptor in 22 also does a fantastic job of sending heavy H&N Crow Magnums down range at breakneck speeds which actually help the mushrooming effect on those deep dish hollow points of the Crow Mags.
When you are in a place like me [West Africa] where the difference between a damaged gun, seals all busted etc, and a working airgun is NOT being able to pop into the shops for a repair, or a replacement - you keep away from all these gimmicks. I was interested in dieseling to, but I have read many stories of how the oils, the vapours and the explosions wreck the internal seals and make airguns inoperable. While it looks like fun, and could help me with range - I do not think I would want to try this.
I use vasoline and never ever had a problem. I've read about broken seals and all that but all I know is I've shot hundreds of rounds with no problem. Just increased power.
Yeah same here, hundreds of dieseled shots with no problems. I also have only ever "read" about these problems. And by "read" I mean peoples dubiously unbacked youtube comment claims; definitely nothing even remotely scholarly. Not a single person has presented any evidence of this damaging an air gun. Lot's of claims, but zero data. Zero evidence.
How many you guys tried using acetone-based starting fluid? This is the first video I've ever seen of this. I've known how to do it for a little while, but I never seen a video on it and that's usually what I use is the acetone. But I'm definitely going to try out this method. It seems like it's definitely easier
try 1/3 paraffin , 1/3 either , 1/3 light oil its acutely the formula for running model engines, the either fires under pressure igniting the paraffin ( you in the USA may call it kerosene) which explodes and the oil lubricates.
40 years ago I tinkered around with old airguns like the BSA mercury's and meteors, webleys like the hawk and vulcan, and Weirauch HW35/77/80, and numerous others, best results were with a strong spring and also leather piston washer and a properly 'cross hatched' cylinder wall will leave the right amount on the wall in a consistent manner when you cock the weapon, dont forget most of the smoke you see is oil vapour blown up the barrel, I tinkered around a fair bit when I was a kid, when you get above 1150 fps you will hear a loud crack, but all the power in the world is no good without consistency, at really high velocities you will run in to accuracy problems with thin skirted slugs, as the increased power will distort the skirts, not a problem with slugs with thick skirts like the H&N Barracuda. I used to 'tune' them for accuracy by the usually rebedding the action to the stock properly fitting a piston sleeve and guide tube if it didnt have one, fitting bearings inside the piston and on the guide tube so the spring could twist without friction, and then by polishing the contact surfaces to a mirror and working moly into the surfaces as a youngster as a pastime, and found out, if there is grease on the outside of the piston, it try's to work its way forward every shot, so you can think of it as fuel as when you cock the weapon a tiny amount of lubricant is left on the cylinder wall as you cock it, so a flexible piston seal with a feathered edge allows this to collapse on the cocking stroke but will expand as it goes forward pressing into the cylinder wall scraping it off as it slams forward and hits the air cushion and under adiabatic compression detonates before it bounces again and settles up against the cylinder head, this is why powerful spring airguns do more damage to scopes than a firearm because of this '2-way snap' recoil pattern, Am not sure if you can get it anymore there was some magic go juice called Tikko Power lube, it was a kind of lithium based grease when mixed with something call 'Weapons Oil Medium' which i think you can still get from military surplus places, you know if its the right stuff as its a milky coloured substance and when mixed together and applied not too thick that it causes drag to the outside of the piston it was instant consistent power
That "crack" you're hearing is actually the pellet passing Mach 1, maybe better known as the "Sound Barrier." Mach 1, at sea level, is 1050 fps. Gaining that extra bit of speed with your pellets can be good or bad. If you're objective is a faster, more powerful shot, this process sounds like it can help. If you want that shot to be quiet, keep it under 1,000 fps. The difference of ~100 fps or so isn't going to make a great deal of difference in the speed/power of the pellet but it will definitely make it louder. To get the speed up significantly, you're going to need more air pressure... that usually leads to PCP air rifles and that leads quickly to more money.
A positive comment this; To test power differences, you might try a line up of water bottles, clay pigeons or any medium by which you can compare penetration. Another thing you can do is shoot at sufficient distance to compare pellet drop. I hope this helps.
I was putting a drop of diesel fuel behind the slug nearly 60 yrs ago, a long time before all of the restricted b/s of 12 foot pounds there is now, it did the job nicely back then too
I'd call it a technicality the 12 foot pounds I imagine, applies to the gun itself If you are putting diesel in the pellets, you are not modifying the gun to shoot faster, just the pellets. And once the pellet is gone (i.e. you have already shot the dieseled pellet) the evidence is gone, and there is no way for them to prove you have a gun capable of more than 12 ft lbs. obviously use this technicality at your own discretion, but I think it would be safe.
The bird feeder is why I needed an airgun lol the squirrels keep dumping it on the ground and attracting rats. I tell you hwhat though you get those squirrels to fear you and they legit F off. All I have to do is open the door now and they flee.
Blotting paper soaked in lighter fluid always did the trick for me. Used it on. 22 steel tips with my 1970's BSA meteor and the airsporter. (one of which was a 177).it would drive a pellet through steel oil can at 35 yards (lengh of garden) but couldn't say beyond that. I do recall a neighbour once knocking on the door one Sunday morning kicking off because they'd dug a pellet out of their back door! The door was about 70 yards away and through a hawthorn hedge 😂.
I have a Ruger airhawk elite 2 and I put Vaseline on the back of the pellet and I put 2 drops of 3and1 oil in it and believe it or not it sounds like a 22 long rifle and went from 1100 feet per second to 1655 feet per second
I got a pellet rifle in my closet, got to wipe the dust of it, but hey, that seems like a common sense idea, I think I will try a thicker oil and try plinking again with it and see how it works for me! Thanks, I never ever would have thought of that!
I used pointy 117 slugs by mistake & damaged the breech seal, took many phone calls & looking/asking for new seals for a 20 year old Gamo matic but finally asked one guy in a shop & he said no, but I luckily mentioned they kind of look like a 20mm slice of fuel line & he scratched around in a draw & found 3 in a bag, so that's a good excuse to go to a gun shop
Is that PB blaster or something else called BP blaster because I'm having reservations I went BP and purchased 91 octane and poured on the my nitro piston break barrel and pellets but the fumes make me ask for clarity if by chance you meant PB blaster
Silly question why not use Deisel fuel its a lot cheaper than wd and probably has a higher energy quota per drop and will clean and lube the barrel just the same
Cause most people already have a can of wd-40, or some other petroleum product like vaseline or pellet gun oil Not everyone drives a diesel car, and already has diesel on hand, and not everyone wants to go to the gas station to fill up a can of diesel just for dumb shit like this But yeah diesel fuel would probably work better
Vaseline in the skirt of the pellets works much better because it doesn't run out of the pellets now with Red Flight Rounds you seat the Red Flight Round 1st then put a little Vaseline behind it and fire away. In the Beeman Duel Caliber Air Rifle it works great pushing 22cal Rounds down range between 1300 to 1400 FPS with 177 Cal Alloy Pellets around 2,000 FPS. I'll do a video one of these days on Dieseling the Beeman Duel Caliber Air Rifle. God Bless
@ThePanman48 Once I had a Steel lock box and shot with a 22CAL Non Lead Red Flight Round and not only did it zip through the lock box it still went about a quarter of a inch into Oak Wood. I was pretty amazed to say the least ! But like I said one of these days I'll do the video on Dieseling with Vaseline it really works great! God Bless
I guess I dieseled my pellet gun as a kid without knowing there was anything going on. I assumed the oil helped seal the round vs bore space and gave a little better performance? I knew it made a different sound but I never realized there was combustion taking place. I was 12-14 years old and was very sloppy with the oil.
Don't do this with a pellet gun you like. This WILL destroy the seals! Yes, it does make a crack when fired and you do get increased velocity and decreased accuracy. It will also coat the bore with burnt hydrocarbons along with leading.
I used to stick gun oil down the barrel when I was a kid thinking it would extend the life of the barrel. But the smoke and smell got addictive and I started doing it more often.
Spray 100% Bees wax furniture polish onto the pellets and they slide through the barrel quicker as theirs less drag than oil and no dieseling plus the barrel gets lubed at the same time and no damage.been doing this for years.
@@PelletPlinker Yes I know that but what for??only reason peeps do that is for more power,noise and smoke.(and doesn't do the rifle any good,theres easier ways to gain more power such like pellet head size and weight)and a chronograph to measure speed and power.
You don't understand how power and velocity work. Using a smaller pellet for more velocity doesn't mean more power. It is lighter so it carries less energy for any given speed. If you can make a larger pellet go as fast as a smaller pellet though, you are talking about some serious gains. You will not achieve anything even close to what dieseling can achieve by just lubing pellets. You would need to upgrade the spring or re work the whole piston system. diesling is a quick an easy fix for a significant amount of extra power (30-50% increase from what I have seen from youtubers who have done chrono tests) and yeah it's not great for your gun, but it's not that bad either. I've done it dozens of times and no damage yet.
Also in the Great Northwest Washington and Oregon both it is legal to have WD-40 in your toolbox if you are fishing or your tackle box it's great bait for sturgeon
@@PelletPlinker tree huggers. It makes worms go crazy and since it's made with fish oil it attracts more fish and some people think it's an unfair advantage.
@@brisudamatusthe detonation from the oil or anything used for dieseling causes stronger combustion that causes rubber seals to stretch over time. Rubber will lose its tightness due to this which then causes openings in the seal. If you want to diesel, take your gun apart and make a new seal out of leather for the piston. Leather can withstand the detonation.
Ever try wax? Paraffin maybe. Just drip a candle into the back of them. I'm not sure if there's enough compression to diesel paraffin or not but would be interesting to try.
Don't do this as it can cause damage to your piston seals, piston head and crack the spring. Take it from a U.K.gunsmith who has seen it first hand. Model aircraft fuel works amazingly well, the compression ignition fuel, it's great fun but will soon kill the gun.
piston dieseling from too much lube =/= pellet dieseling from a small dab of oil Damage you have seen is from piston chamber dieseling, not pellet dieseling. The piston chamber is capable of holding much more oil/air and thus capable of much greater explosions. I've been doing this for years out of the same gun, with hundreds of rounds down range. No damage yet.
@@purdyboi8078 Being a gunsmith is incredibly irrelevant here. You either know how fluid expansion and pressures work or you don't. The fact that he repaired a gun does not mean he knows exactly what happened to that gun. The things I am saying are factually and scientifically correct so you can either take it or leave it, but it will still be true regardless of what you personally decide. If you aren't interested in dieseling your pellet rifle not really sure why you are here other than to feed the algorithm, so I guess thanks for helping me get more views on my video.
We all know... The pressure pushing on the rear of the pellet, causes some spreading of the pellet cup to engage the rifling grooves. The Vaseline or other high viscosity lubricant when used, is forced to the outer edge of the pressure dome formed behind the pellet. This alone will increase the velocity of the pellet by any regulated pressure. Dieseling, is more difficult if at all, to get the velocities consistent. Long long ago I was into competition air gun shooting. I found that pre-sizing/ making the pellet air cup wider, so that it was able to compress as it was pushed into the barrel. Which formed a better seal, and using WD-40 or even 3 in one oil to lube the air pump. gave me the most consistent groups, and velocities. Also more consistent dieseling. With BB's I used 50 weight MC OIl or 90wt gear lube. Zippie fast BB's! Air gunzzz are fun.....
You do realize that by doing this you could damage or eventually destroy your pellet gun right? Dieseling creates much higher chamber pressures than your pellet gun is designed to withstand.
You realize I've been doing this to a un-maintained rifle for several years now, and have dieseled hundreds if not thousands of shots with no issues yet, right?
@@PelletPlinker "look up what Dieseling, is in a pellet rifle ,seems you don't know." like I said dieseling is when the wrong oil is used in the chamber and causes mini explosions that raise pressures and blow seals.~ What your doing is pellet lubes , you may be getting a little of the same effect ,in the barrel,.but it's not the same.
Hi am from the UK 🇬🇧 just come across your channel don't know if you are still doing this but if you are get vaseline and more important is the thick hand gel we all was using for covid mix them together and you will be amazed I have a .22 at 25/30foot it will go through 30mm laminate board clean through and I have just put a theoben gas ram in it a 1.77 mm that takes the power to 25 f lb with the pellets done like that it's amazing and so quite I'VE GOT A BSA LIGHTNING AND I'VE JUST PUT RUBBER WASHERS BETWEEN THE BAFULLS WITH 5MM HOLE ITS BRILLIANT IT DROPS ANYTHING SOME TIME'S TO MUCH POWER RIPS RATS 🐀 APART😮😂😂
any sources on these claims? I hear a lot of people say this but have seen no documentation on this. Meanwhile, all the people who have been dieseling for years have guns that are perfectly fine.
Would kerosene work or does it have to bee like that charcoal lighter fluid? Or is it is a heavy oil would you use used motor oil or use something like coconut oil?
If it's a spring piston, use petroleum base oil. If it's a gas ram,use 100% silicone oil. But don't do it a whole lot. Hard on the piston seals. A much easier way to get high speed out of an air rifle, is to just buy a high speed air rifle. They act as the deiseling effect and power! My Hatsan mod 125 .177 for 180 bucks on sale shoots well over 1600 fps with super light alloy non lead pellets if I want to do that. Sounds like a 22 rimfire going off! 🤣🤣🤣😆😆😆💥💪😱😱😱
When ever we go to Kanada the border guy asks, "do you have any weapons with you?" and I always say" WHAT DO YOU NEED?" 🤣😂🤣😂🤣🤣😂🤪😷😵💫🤠🤠🤠🤠🤠@@TheRealSockon
@@PelletPlinker I've rebuilt many customers springers through out the last 20 years. It's a common occurrence but you can keep on promoting this. It's been a good side hustle.
You are mistaking pellet dieseling, with piston dieseling. A tiny bit of oil on a pellet wont do this. oil in the piston chamber will though, as there is more room for oil, and more room for air, and a much smaller hole to go through. And for the same reason you can put a piece of paper over a candle flame quickly, and it doesn't burn the paper, dieseling pellets does not burn seals. It happens far too quickly. The dieseling reaction happens in a fraction of a fraction of the amount of time that you would put your hand/piece of paper through a candle flame for, and is a much smaller "flame". I have never seen damage occur to an air rifle of any type from putting oil on pellets. Every dieseling damage I have ever seen, or heard of, was a result of over lubrication leaving too much residual oil in the piston chamber, resulting in dangerously large combustion, that would not be possible within the breech alone.
Springer guns get the best diesel effect. First shot vaporises the propellant and mixes it in vaguely the right sociometric ratio. Second shot is the compression ignition. Much bigger bang and much better chance of coating your rifling with exploded airgun pellet..... Ta.
@@PelletPlinker Try this: BSA Airsporter, load a pellet into the tap. Put a drop of the propellant of your choice in and close tap. Fire shot and quickly cock the rifle while the vapour is still in the barrel and at about the correct stoichiometric ratio. Load second shot and quickly fire. If you get it perfect, you'll see muzzle flash and hear a very loud report, louder than a .22LR. If you overdo it, pellet and barrel have become one! Ta.
The WD-40 brand has 4 variants, first the original, second, Dry Lube Specialist, third Silicone Specialist and last Penetrant. The best for air rifles is the Dry Lube, because it doesn't leave a moist remnant inside the barrel. Dry lube is also recommended for loosening difficult keyed locks
I wonder if setting the pellet would have any effects? Like if ya set it a little deeper would it have the same effect as when people bore our a car cylinder, but on an obviously smaller scale? I don't know crap about cars but figured it was worth asking.
it would lower compression. You are getting 2 things confused here too: Boring a cylinder makes the cylinder wider, not deeper. It allows you to fit a "fatter" piston which I think has something to do with torque or something. The other thing commonly done, does the opposite of what you are suggesting. They will shave down the heads, specifically the contact point between the head and the cylinder. This puts the "ceiling" of the cylinder head lower/closer to the top of the piston during it's upstroke, decreasing the total volume in the combustion chamber, and thusly increasing compression ratio, and increasing horsepower.
@@PelletPlinker See, I wouldn't have known that... That was really cool to learn. I woulda thought more room for more gas woulda equaled more boom😄 Thanks for taking the time to explain🙂 I woulda responded 3 weeks ago when ya replied, but stupid RUclips never notified me.
With an average or shitty rifle you've got that "problem" anyway! Btw, the variation in speed is usually so small that most complainers shouldn't blame this tiny difference on missing the target. 😂🤣
@@taunteratwill1787 Variation in velocity makes a massive difference, spring powered are pretty consistent, unregulated PCP are generally consistent over a number of shots, they have a sweet spot, regulated PCP,s are pretty consistent, this probably doesn't apply to you as you have a shitty rifle,😂
@@PelletPlinker You're right. What could have I been thinking? The 2 pump pellet pistols that blew out the seals when I was doing this was purely a coincidence. I recommend now for everyone to diesel their guns
انت لا تحترم الطلقات ان هزها بهذه الطريقة ووضع يدك في العلبة يجعل الذخيرة تنثني فهي ضعيفة، بدلا من ذلك ، اسكبها في يدك حتى لا تثني اغلب الطلقات عند وضع يدك فيها
Dude...WD40 will eat the shit out of your seals. Yes it is on the pellet itself but a portion will kick back into the works and screw up your gun. You can achieve the same effect with Pell gun oil or non detergent transmission oil...no worries.
pellgun oil is what I normally use, this was justa quick and dirty method someone suggested in the comments And wd40 doesn't hurt seals, dirty seals hurt seals, which WD40 will attract dirt and eventually also dry out leading to non lubricated seals as well. If you are re lubricating, and ideally cleaning the gun you have nothing to worry about
I'm a gunsmith and it will kill a sub 12ftlb gun quite quickly. Trust me, I've seen it and repaired the damaged seal, piston head and cracked spring on a number of occasions.
@@nicfraipont4184 .. seriously 😂I'm a gunsmith... And a fan of Air guns.... And no I am not a neogliphic...but world war 2 tech.... showed some type of light on air guns and there capabilities..Google the truth 👍🥴
I understand the dieseling effect. More power (velocity) But as you can't manage the amount of energy you add, accuracy should go down ... I would like to see the results trying to make a 5 shots group on a target....
Here is some information on how to destroy your air rifle seal at least if not a multitude of other types of damage. This is as useful as putting a rocket on a bike. Absolute nonsense
@@PelletPlinker I am here to see people do dumb things and to let other new to the sport not to do this, lots have done it and I have seen the results many times. You do your thing man but I strongly recommend to others not to
good thing seals are cheap and easy to replace some people would probably benefit from blowing their seal anyway. Get their hands dirty and learn how to maintain the thing.
From my experience no Could just be that CO2 guns don't usually have enough pressure, but I think it's just that CO2 extinguishes fires, and so wouldn't be conducive to ignition
It'll ruin all the seals and polymer parts and the pellet's BC is not designed for the speed so it'll fly wild. It's just a bad idea all around. If you want supersonic buy a .22 caliber lon rifle powder burner.
No it doesn't. I diesel 10 shots out of a 10 shot magazine, and have done so dozens of times out of this gun. Even 10 dieseled shots back to back with no delay isn't enough to melt or burn a seal. Have you ever put your hand through a candle flame? You can even take a tissue paper through a candle flame with no damage if you do it fast enough. Fast enough is the key ingredient here. The explosion and propulsion happens in a fraction of a second. Probably a fraction of a milisecond. Even if it was hot enough to melt the seals, it wouldn't, simply because it doesn't have time to. The fire is gone before it's even there, that's how fast it happens. Same thing applies to the polymer parts, of which there aren't any, except for maybe in the piston if it's made out of polymer. And if you are referring to the polymer in the piston, it's even further from the explosion than the seals are, and is in an EXPANSION chamber, not a COMPRESSION chamber. This means not only the heat energy, but also the velocity energy, will all dissipate extremely quickly as soon as they go from the extremely confined barrel/breech space, to the much larger and more spacious piston chamber. This decreases pressure coming in, and decreases heat coming in (laws of thermodynamics and fluid dynamics). In other words, you will pretty much never hurt your gun doing this. I still have yet to see any evidence of a single person who has damaged their gun doing this. And the math/science supports this data. Dieseling just won't ruin your seals. As for "ruining the pellets" this also isn't true. They stay fully intact and fly more accurately since they have more speed and are effected "less" (perceived less over distance, not actually less) by wind and gravity. Your groups will be higher than they were before, since the pellets are moving faster, and are not dropping as much over the same distance. But the groups will also be tighter, because the pellets are moving faster, and not getting knocked off course as much in that same distance. And if my cheap pellet gun breaks after 4 years of dieselling the hell out of it, not only did I get my money's worth out of the gun in my opinion anyway, but these videos are already paying for my next air rifle so I wouldn't give a damn anyway.
Maybe try some kerosene with a little bit of WD-40. Kerosene is basically just a cleaner more refined version of diesel fuel, it's basically the same chemical makeup. Diesel fuel has a self ignition temperature of 210 degrees Celsius and gasoline has a self ignition temperature of 246 degrees Celsius. That's why gasoline is not used in diesel engines even though it is cleaner and more volatile. It's not so much the volatility that you are looking for to achieve the diesel effect, it is the low self ignition temperature. When you compress the petroleum it raises the temperature enough for self ignition to occur. You should research which chemicals have the lowest self ignition temperature and try a formula that has those chemicals. With a little research you may be able to come up with some cocktail that works really well. Just make sure you don't get anything that will corrode the insides of the gun. Kerosene should be very safe. If you mix kerosene or diesel with a little bit of something that contains more energy that would possably give a great effect. Kerosene is pretty much what powers the SpaceX Falcon 9 rocket, and also every jet airliner you've ever been on. RP-1 and Jet-A or #3 jet fuel and most other jet fuels are basically kerosene with things like anti-gel additives. Diesel fuel is a more oily version of that. You would have to experiment to figure out which performs best.
@CBC lol idk why you are so obsessed with being anti dieseling in my comments While you still probably shouldn't do this with a gun you aren't willing to risk damaging; I've been doing this for years and my gun is still fine. Any damage you might do is pretty cheap and easy to fix (cheap rubber seals) There is nothing unreasonable about wanting to have some fun and increase the velocity of your pellet gun
@@PelletPlinker You will ruin a someones airgun with this one day. Keep WD-40 AWAY FROM ALL AIRGUNS! If you want to increase velocity there are better ways. Like smoothing out your transfer ports. Increasing the hammer spring. Poloshing the hammer and latch. This will just ruin your gun and its seals one day.
To clarify, I am not going to ruin anyone's anything. Adults are capable of making their own decisions. And also I have already stated before to do this at your own risk, but either way who gives a shit? So someone ruins a 5 cent rubber o ring, who actually gives a fuck? The only things that can go wrong, are all things that you just recommended replacing/upgrading anyway, so again, who actually cares at that point? If it's easy to replace for an upgrade, it's easy to replace as a repair. And most people would rather just cross that bridge if and when they get to it, as opposed to rebuilding their 100$ airgun just for some extra FPS. It's a lot easier to just diesel some shots for a little fun.
@@PelletPlinker Broken springs, damaged trigger groups, cooked piston seals are another side effect that can occur. I had a Hatsan 135 diesel so hard the piston came all the way back and hit the latch. My trigger finger stung quite a bit. That wasn't even intentional, that's just excessive lube from the factory. I'm not saying don't do it, I've done it myself on crappy rifles, but people need to understand, this can do all kinds of damage and you definitely don't want to overdo it.
@@purdyboi8078 Why are you even here? I have first hand experience that proves this wrong, you are the clueless person who keeps giving me more comments on a video that for some reason you are still here leaving comments on even though you have zero interest in. But back to my first hand experience. I have been doing this for several years now with the same gun, and the same magazines (notice how I call it a magazine instead of a "pellet clip") They are all still in perfect condition. WD40 is literally oil. If you think it deteriorates stuff you might just be retarded.
@PelletPlinker good to hear. I have the magnum pro, and the scope seems good when sighted. However, I've had to sight it in several times prior to use.
what kinda pellets do you use? theres a good chance your scope is staying mostly sighted, but there is just a lot of variance between shots Theses guns are engineered and tested with pellets that are so light they are almost impossible to obtain (gamo sells these for like 10x the price of a normal pellet, and they are nearly half the weight of anything you will find) Using pellets that are too heavy is gonna give you a lot of wild variance, since they aren't going fast enough to stay stable in flight, and their lower speed and higher mass effects how they interact with the rifling of the barrel Basically, the lighter the pellet, the better results you will get in terms of accuracy Dieseling definitely doesn't help this at all, but typically the only thing that changes when dieseling is how low you have to aim since they don't drop as much over the same distance, so you can get away with just aiming a few inches lower if you are using .22 the H&N excite is probably the best/lightest pellet you can find that isn't the gamo overpriced crap www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MOGPAH6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The older it is the better it will probably be50 yrs plus the gun will be nicely balanced, i have fired a number of relatively new ones hard to aim with because theyre way out of balance, i wish i still had my old Relum 2.2 i had it 57 years ago, a good powerful gun perfectly balanced
Not sure what you mean by balanced Talking about weight distribution of the gun, or consistency of shots? These gamo break barrels are pretty decent, never had any trouble hitting stuff
Someone has probably already experimented with this idea but I have not seen it but how would it affect a break barrel air rifle if you replaced the wd40 with diesel fuel
@@PelletPlinker anyway, some result using the vaseline by my side. I tried it in a Diana Eleven cal.177 and in a Gamo P900 same caliber. The Diana got the best result and the P900 just more power (pretty weak as a
@@PelletPlinker 100 shots is too few. When you are in a place like me [West Africa] where the difference between a damaged gun, seals all busted etc, and a working airgun is NOT being able to pop into the shops for a repair, or a replacement - you keep away from all these gimmicks. I was interested in dieseling to, but I have read many stories of how the oils, the vapours and the explosions wreck the internal seals and make airguns inoperable. While it looks like fun, and could help me with range - I do not think I would want to try this.
Too few for what? 100 shots is plenty to test dieseling effect on a rifle. If it was truly bad for the rifle, it wouldn't make it through 100 shots. You read some bullshit from some kids online who don't know what they are talking about and fell for it. Find me one video or one scholarly paper illustrating the damages caused by pellet dieseling: you probably can't Meanwhile there are hundreds of videos of people dieseling that have had no problems with their guns after decades of doing this. Believe what you want and do what you want, but this isn't going to hurt your gun. I also find it hard to believe you can get an entire air rifle in west africa, but you can't find a single rubber o ring in africa. You don't need to take your gun to the shop to fix it, you just need to pop the o ring out of the breech and replace it.
@@PelletPlinker Sorry o... Please do not be vexed. You are getting angry over this. I just stated my situation, that's all. I just feel [IMHO] that if "dieseling" is such a good thing for thousands of rounds, Airgun Manufacturers would have mentioned it in their documentation, and there would have been an industry for it already: manufacturers would have long created a "pre-dieselled" pellet and made BILLION$ or something. Please, do not be offended, enjoy your dieselling.
@@PelletPlinker I assure you there are a few Air Rifles in West Africa, just like there are a few Shotguns too in private hands. You can check out my videos on my RUclips Channel, and read my articles on "The Firearm Blog". [We also have cars, and tall buildings, airports, mobile phones and broadband internet.] Of course we have O-Rings here, and many of us travel on vacations and shopping trips abroad. But, we do not have warranties, we do not have shops to just walk in and fix a damaged Airgun or Firearm, or walk in and purchase a replacement. When one has an asset like that, it becomes a family heirloom - I hope to hand my Gamo .177 Air Rifle to my youngest son when he is 18 [He is already shooting it now at 11] and maybe hand over my Puncher Breaker Bullpup .22 bolt-action Air Rifle too. But for now, knowing how much I got them, the stress I go through daily to own them - they will be treated preciously and strictly according to the manufacturers' manuals. Thank you.
You should try pushing one pellet up the rifling of the barrel about a half inch and then take a siringe and put a drop behind it and put a petter behind it.
I get the fact that the lubricant lubricates the barrel and creates a seal between the pellet and the bore. What I don't get is the part where you mentioned an explosion? Can you explain this in more detail?
So the lubrication wasn't really a point of focus, I was just mentioning that it probably also does this to at least some degree, but that is just a theory. What is happening here is that petroleum ignites under enough pressure, which is how a diesel engine works. Gas engines use a spark plug, whereas a diesel engine just uses the sheer pressure of the combustion chamber to ignite the fuel. This can also happen on a smaller scale behind the pellet when the pressure in the piston/breech area is high enough, creating a small explosion that adds a little extra velocity to the pellet, and of course a louder sound and a little smoke puff
It's not the pressure that ignites fuel in diesel engines [or guns] - it's the heat caused by the pressure. The temperature can be raised to typically around 900 degrees C by the compression stroke of many diesel vehicles. @Plinker
Funny thing you mention Dieseling. I happen to be a Diesel mechanic. WD 40 works wonders. Why waste time on bbs and pellets you're just going to shoot anyway?
This post got my attention as back in the mid 60's my dad bought me a .177 caliber pellet gun. I was not aware of dieseling but as a pretty inventive youngster I would pour a drop of lighter fluid into the piston and discharge my rifle. This brought back a bunch of memories :)
I mixed vaseline with 3in1 oil, I put 1 pellet in the magazine and with a cotton swab I spread a little "oil/vas" on the pellet, then the next etc. I use for one mag 1min. the power is extreme
I got my first air rifle from my Dad for my 8th birthday back in 1985. It was a Daisy Model 120 break-action spring-air .177 cal pellet rifle. At the time, I figured it would be a good idea to lube it on occasion using some 3-in-1 oil. I noticed, though, that it would blow a puff of smoke and make a slightly louder noise right after oiling it. I can still remember that smell, lol. I had no idea what was going on at the time, so, it's nice to finally get the rest of the story. I'm 46 now and this video prompted me to walk over to the closet to pull that old rifle out. It's still in great shape! I can't tell you the last time I actually fired it, but I'm starting to get the urge to take it out to the range.
Might need some new seals after all that time, could be dried/cracked or something
Do it, im 57 and just started getting into air guns. That damn skunk won't spray my dog anymore!!!😉
Back then, they used hard cowhide leather! Oil it up again! Tanke er out an enjoy it! It'll be ok. Oil inside something that that last forever! I purchased an really old UK made air rifle 25 yrs ago, but it was made in the turn of the 20th century. Someone 100 yrs ago oiled it an it still had oil inside it! Works to this day2023! No BS. My old 50 yr old Chinese breaker barrel still works great too! Soooo
@@eddiecahall3824 I ran some oil down inside of the air cylinder…hoping it made it down to the leather seal. I tried to disassemble the cylinder, but it didn’t seem to want to come apart easily and I didn’t want to risk damaging something beyond repair. I’m gonna give it a try later on!
Very cool story.
Tried this in my old Chinese B1 .22 cal break barrel. Works great! Normally this gun shoots around 420fps, and now with WD-40 in the tin of pellets, I checked across the chrono and it's shooting around 525fps which is great! Thank you for this tip!
We used WD-40 in the mid seventies. I had a crosman 767 pump that shot about 500 fps. I sprayed my barrel and soaked the pellets. That little rifle could hunt jack rabbits. Didn't have a Chrono back then but you could here the difference in thump on hard targets . People say it will destroy your gun. I dieseled thousands of rounds in that cheap gun and it's in my closet today with the original seals.
Mine definitely doesn't have THAT much use, but yeah my gun is perfectly fine after several years doing this now, and hundreds of dieseled rounds later
I'm sure there's some possibility for damage, but I haven't had any yet.
Up here in Canada all we are allowed is a max of around 500fps. I was wondering if it would work with the tuned down pellet guns we have up here. Since it worked for you, I might give it a try with mine.
might be able to
worth a try
I've got a really big backyard but my fence is only about 4 ft so I can't go shooting in my backyard yet. I can't believe the things I've seen people do that are so dangerous, it's awesome to see you took that many precautions so nothing bad could happen!👍
I mean if you shoot low I don't see why you couldn't use your fence as a backstop
Or just standup a sheet of plywood against the fence then you have an 8 foot tall section
@@PelletPlinker people live close to me and will not like seeing me shooting plus there is a kids park 40 feet directly behind my backyard or i would just shoot low. i dont want any problems.
I used to use Plusgas dismantling lubricant behind my pellets when I was a kid. That worked very well.
Loving the humming bird feeder near your plinkers!
gotta keep the squirrels away from the bird seed somehow
😂
I get dieseling by dropping 3-in-one general purpose oil straight into the piston chamber , it gives me about 3 extremely powerful shots, you can tell the pellets go supersonic on a .22
I wouldn't put it in the piston chamber, that can actually damage your gun. Keep it to the barrel area i.e. inside the pellets.
Your seals are going to go supersonic, sooner or later.
@@PelletPlinker Is 3in1 a good substitute for just barrel oil? I want to put some barrel oil in to lube up the barrel but everything I've looked up online says to use silicone pellet gun oil specifically and only from the exact brand that makes the pellet gun. 3in1 has never failed me before used it for all sorts of stuff over the years. Just figured I'd ask the lads that really know
i used my Camo magnum, he has a nice mag, you need only a tiny bit oil and thanks to how the mag is build the oil stay in the slug, i could not measure the speed, but i could hear and see the damage he has done to my plywood!! i think it was surely 20% increase
Hoppes #9 lubricating oil or any 3-in-1 oil works, put a drop on the pellet skirt.
Another fun thing which doesn't damage the gun is to araldite a small pistol primer on to
the nose of a .22 pellet. Great against hard flat targets like a house brick. Nice flash at night too.
I remember doing that too. Those little red things u peel apart ..
Another video shows an Hatsan Carnivore with vaselin on the back of the pallet. Without dieseling it did around 530 fps as I remember, and after a few dieseled shots he maxed with 740 fps! But maybe he could have even better results with less vaseline for better fuel/air mixture.
Oh yeah it cranked up speed, im 63 and got a daisy 880 pump for my birthday, just like the one I had when I was 9 years old, we didn't know about diesling back then,, I'll give it a try and come back with a progress report,, thank you very much
I was dieseling without knowing it by spraying oil into the piston cyllinder. I was wondering why the whole gun rings after some shots sounding like a supersonic crack. There was always a thick smoke in the barrel. This would work for a BB.
Vicks vapor rub works great also. My gun has lead seals Ben Franklin 317 .22 so no worries on blowing them out.
Since your break action Gamo Swarm, is what it is, try spraying "just a squirt" of quick start into the compression chamber
That's how I accidentally learned about dieseling, trying to salvage slightly corroded pellets.sure does work
Lead corrode?
Brake Fluid was better in my pellet gun. The effect was amplified by swabbing the barrel using a cleaning rod and cotton end.
I just finished modding a .22 cal pellet rifle, a generic Crosman hardware store rifle called the 'F11 NP', which is restricted to < 500 fps but gets, with 14.3gr pellets, around 420 - 440 fps. Let's say I upgraded the nitro piston & the gas ram to something with more stank on it since I have my PAL & found out I'm allowed to mod these things all I want.. I've had dieseling happen a few times as i removed the piston & re-installed it over & over, occasionally adding break-barrel oil to the outside of the piston tube. I'd get dieseling almost every first shot of the next day - it felt, sounded & kicked like my 22 rimfire. I never put my first shot of the day through my chrono until today, while testing my new piston/ram combo.
I still think it has to be a chrono problem - but this is the first & only time it's done this. I thought it had something to do with the gasses/sparks that fly out of the barrel or the smoke that accompanies the pellet. With a very light .22 cal pellet (Gamo Platinum 9.7gr), my chrono read 674.3 m/s (2200 fps). I'm getting consistent > 1000 FPS with .22 cal 14.66gr domed pellets & my fastest fps was 1427 fps - almost 1000 fps more than it was getting with the pathetic Canadian piston/ram combo, but the dieseling shot - is it even possible that that ~2200 fps (674.3 m/s on my chrono) was correct? Can dieseling really make a pellet go that fast? There's no way that can be safe for the gun, right? Especially with a 9.7gr pellet, which isn't really appropriate for such high power.
if it's happening in the piston chamber, theres a chance it is detonating much more fuel than just normal pellet dieseling, and so that might be why it's going so fast
@@PelletPlinker Thanks, I thoguht the source of the performance of the first 10 shots or so came from the shorter piston & 8mm shorter gas ram I installed. Much more air in the compression chamber, but with a 70kg gas ram. The only thing I added to the install was that I applied Crosman break-barrel oil, liberally, on the outside of the piston (not in the piston, the gas ram is dry).
I'm only using a 3mm shim (3 washers, actually more like 3.3mm), but I'm going to have to do the math to make sure it's optimal. The barrel has to be folded much farther than it used to, but it locks great when cocked. The pellets were loud, the first one being the loudest of course - but I see now why people rely on dieseling sometimes. Must've been at least 10 shots > 1000 fps, which for a .22 is a bit too high to be accurate, or at the limit anyway (in my experience). I swear to you & your subs, though, that 674.3 m/s is accurate. After another 5 shots or so, it went down to the 900 fps range. Like I said, I had no idea those speeds were possible - I thought maybe some of the smoke or particles of oil in the spray might have confused the chrono (a cheap '2 canopy' type chrono) - but the pellet hit a 2x4 on a wooden step, smack dab on the side, and there's a bulge on the other side of it. A pellet going that fast, almost through a 2x4. "What have I done?", Iol, I was like Hatori Hanzo.
Now, after 30+ shots (mostly with 14.66 gr dome shaped, but some 14.3 gr hollow point), the speeds have settled. I'm getting a consistent 700 fps+, which for this rifle is fantastic. My cheap chrono won't tell me what speeds I get with a 9.7gr pellet, but I can imagine it's 1000fps. I get the occasional 820+ fps, but the absolute lowest was 690 fps. I'm just a plinker, I don't hunt - but given the opportunity to hunt rats or crows, I'm in. The Crosman F11 NP is actually pretty good, but it really needs the upgrade of piston & gas ram (~ $110 CDN) to be worth it.
Guns need lube. Modern materials are meant to operate long times without lube. But even the og m16 was built with a chrome lined barrel that reduced projectile friction, like having lube and a non stick surface.
Modern steel barrels are like a chrome moly(benidum) composite that gently wears out like led on a pencil and typically has a short break in period as the projectile removes microscopic layers of barrel until it's honed (polished) smooth. (Att: This is what I have heard in the past. This may be inaccurate as now or only applicable to certain manufacturers. I'm not sure) but quality barrels are made of different materials today and some use the best processes to create long lasting barrels even without lube. Matter of fact soft moes hardness #3 copper acts like a lubricant versus a hardened steel barrel that's more like 5~6 Moe's hardness. I can only imagine soft copper through a smooth chrome barrel and the speeds achieved by the bullet.
In short though most guns need lube for the functioning parts. And I'm not really sure that dieseling generates higher pressures on the barrel or seals.
My thoughts are a tighter seal from the applied lube might let less air pass there fore increasing pressure on the projectile and increasing speed
OR
The added lube generates a friction less environment where the full applied pressure is utilized by the projectile as less energy is wasted. Because the friction of the projectile dragging down the whole un lubricated barrel causes such drag and friction. That most of the energy is used just pushing it out.
Let's say that you push a parked car in neutral with 50lbs of force. It's going to move slowly. But if you use that sam 50lbs of force while the car is on ice. It may move faster with less friction. As the tires aren't dragging on asphalt.
@@Samuel_Lipscomb Lots of great points, thank you. Update on mine, I ruined the rifle, but no big loss. I started putting slugs through the barrel, and the piston was ramming against the intake port, rather than bouncing off the compressed air - and this caused the barrel joint to almost seize - it's very tight, and the flat-head screw that holds it on is totally seized. Mission accomplished though, I wanted to see if I could mod it to get higher velocities by sourcing parts online. It worked great at around 750fps for a month, but the accuracy was off. It was good to have the pellets actually penetrate plywood rather than ricochet off of it, but I decided to just get my gun license, so now I have a cheap Crosman that gets 700fps reliably, though with alloy pellets of 9.7gr, around 850fps (advertised at 950fps). I'm using the stock from my old one, though, it's much nicer.
I'm interested in a Gamo Magnum, which promises real-world (Crosman Premier 14.33gr lead pellets) velocities of ~1000fps (advertised at 1300fps). A "just at subsonic" 22 cal is all I want from a break-barrel.
Guys what you need to know about dieseling is that there must be three elements needed to make a fire, which are, fuel, heat and oxygen, which is what generates compression. The oil is fuel, the compressed air consists of heat and oxygen, hence the compression. With just a drop of oil in the skirt of the pellet will do the trick. Dieseling generates about 300 fps ( depending on the velocity of the gun) more than the normal fps of the respective gun. A .22 airgun shooting at about 950- a 1000 fps, can go up to about 1300-1400 fps when dieseled, which makes it just as lethal as a .22LR rimfire
Yes sir I can vouch for these results I have used a petroleum based lubricant that is of course flammable and it effectively turns my pellet rifle into a 22LR with how loud and powerful leaving a stream of smoke leaving my barrel. Your rifle has to be spring piston powered, will not work on a Co2 rifle as compression is needed to achieve combustion.
@@Digital.Dictator what about a pcp?
@@OhighoGrows A PCP doesn't really need any help as they are usually stronger than what's being done here already. But you can probably get some minor gains using lubed pellets just be sure to clean your barrel often because it will cause gunk to build up. A PCP functions much like a Co2 platform so I don't think using a combustible lubricant will get the same result.
@@Digital.Dictator I can vouch for gas rams aka Nitro pistons work with dieseling as well. Gamo Raptor whisper in 177 using 7gr wad cutter pellets sends them out there screaming. The Raptor in 22 also does a fantastic job of sending heavy H&N Crow Magnums down range at breakneck speeds which actually help the mushrooming effect on those deep dish hollow points of the Crow Mags.
Nothing new I was doing this 50 years ago😅😅😅
When you are in a place like me [West Africa] where the difference between a damaged gun, seals all busted etc, and a working airgun is NOT being able to pop into the shops for a repair, or a replacement - you keep away from all these gimmicks.
I was interested in dieseling to, but I have read many stories of how the oils, the vapours and the explosions wreck the internal seals and make airguns inoperable.
While it looks like fun, and could help me with range - I do not think I would want to try this.
I use vasoline and never ever had a problem. I've read about broken seals and all that but all I know is I've shot hundreds of rounds with no problem. Just increased power.
Yeah same here, hundreds of dieseled shots with no problems.
I also have only ever "read" about these problems. And by "read" I mean peoples dubiously unbacked youtube comment claims; definitely nothing even remotely scholarly.
Not a single person has presented any evidence of this damaging an air gun. Lot's of claims, but zero data. Zero evidence.
@@devon6866 Out of interest what method are you using? and what form of air rifle? pcp or springer?
@@lamarr1986 I use a AEA precision max .50 caliber that's PCP and I also have a gamo break barrel and I deisel with both with good results.
How many you guys tried using acetone-based starting fluid? This is the first video I've ever seen of this. I've known how to do it for a little while, but I never seen a video on it and that's usually what I use is the acetone. But I'm definitely going to try out this method. It seems like it's definitely easier
acetone is known to melt a lot of stuff so I'd probably steer clear
A long time ago we used to put a drop of gun oil in the piston cylinder of a break barrel air rifle. It produced pretty impressive results.
try 1/3 paraffin , 1/3 either , 1/3 light oil its acutely the formula for running model engines, the either fires under pressure igniting the paraffin ( you in the USA may call it kerosene) which explodes and the oil lubricates.
40 years ago I tinkered around with old airguns like the BSA mercury's and meteors, webleys like the hawk and vulcan, and Weirauch HW35/77/80, and numerous others, best results were with a strong spring and also leather piston washer and a properly 'cross hatched' cylinder wall will leave the right amount on the wall in a consistent manner when you cock the weapon, dont forget most of the smoke you see is oil vapour blown up the barrel, I tinkered around a fair bit when I was a kid, when you get above 1150 fps you will hear a loud crack, but all the power in the world is no good without consistency, at really high velocities you will run in to accuracy problems with thin skirted slugs, as the increased power will distort the skirts, not a problem with slugs with thick skirts like the H&N Barracuda.
I used to 'tune' them for accuracy by the usually rebedding the action to the stock properly fitting a piston sleeve and guide tube if it didnt have one, fitting bearings inside the piston and on the guide tube so the spring could twist without friction, and then by polishing the contact surfaces to a mirror and working moly into the surfaces as a youngster as a pastime, and found out, if there is grease on the outside of the piston, it try's to work its way forward every shot, so you can think of it as fuel as when you cock the weapon a tiny amount of lubricant is left on the cylinder wall as you cock it, so a flexible piston seal with a feathered edge allows this to collapse on the cocking stroke but will expand as it goes forward pressing into the cylinder wall scraping it off as it slams forward and hits the air cushion and under adiabatic compression detonates before it bounces again and settles up against the cylinder head, this is why powerful spring airguns do more damage to scopes than a firearm because of this '2-way snap' recoil pattern,
Am not sure if you can get it anymore there was some magic go juice called Tikko Power lube, it was a kind of lithium based grease when mixed with something call 'Weapons Oil Medium' which i think you can still get from military surplus places, you know if its the right stuff as its a milky coloured substance and when mixed together and applied not too thick that it causes drag to the outside of the piston it was instant consistent power
Thanks for sharing, I have an old (1960s) Pakistani .22 cal pellet rifle that is pretty powerful (900 fps or so) that could use some of your mods.
But are you sure? Jk, good insight, thanks
Wow beautiful collection of springers, hope you still have them .
That "crack" you're hearing is actually the pellet passing Mach 1, maybe better known as the "Sound Barrier." Mach 1, at sea level, is 1050 fps. Gaining that extra bit of speed with your pellets can be good or bad. If you're objective is a faster, more powerful shot, this process sounds like it can help. If you want that shot to be quiet, keep it under 1,000 fps. The difference of ~100 fps or so isn't going to make a great deal of difference in the speed/power of the pellet but it will definitely make it louder. To get the speed up significantly, you're going to need more air pressure... that usually leads to PCP air rifles and that leads quickly to more money.
A positive comment this; To test power differences, you might try a line up of water bottles, clay pigeons or any medium by which you can compare penetration. Another thing you can do is shoot at sufficient distance to compare pellet drop. I hope this helps.
was more of an afterthought the main purpose was just to show the ease of use for wd40 dieseling
The 'dieseled' pellets are hitting so hard you can hear the mic is peaking, definitely gonna try this one
You will find that instead of a 10mm group at 35 yards. You will get something like a 100mm to 120mm group. Try it
I was putting a drop of diesel fuel behind the slug nearly 60 yrs ago, a long time before all of the restricted b/s of 12 foot pounds there is now, it did the job nicely back then too
I'd call it a technicality
the 12 foot pounds I imagine, applies to the gun itself
If you are putting diesel in the pellets, you are not modifying the gun to shoot faster, just the pellets. And once the pellet is gone (i.e. you have already shot the dieseled pellet) the evidence is gone, and there is no way for them to prove you have a gun capable of more than 12 ft lbs.
obviously use this technicality at your own discretion, but I think it would be safe.
I like how he’s got the bird feeder for moving targets
The bird feeder is why I needed an airgun lol the squirrels keep dumping it on the ground and attracting rats.
I tell you hwhat though you get those squirrels to fear you and they legit F off. All I have to do is open the door now and they flee.
Blotting paper soaked in lighter fluid always did the trick for me. Used it on. 22 steel tips with my 1970's BSA meteor and the airsporter. (one of which was a 177).it would drive a pellet through steel oil can at 35 yards (lengh of garden) but couldn't say beyond that. I do recall a neighbour once knocking on the door one Sunday morning kicking off because they'd dug a pellet out of their back door! The door was about 70 yards away and through a hawthorn hedge 😂.
I have a Ruger airhawk elite 2 and I put Vaseline on the back of the pellet and I put 2 drops of 3and1 oil in it and believe it or not it sounds like a 22 long rifle and went from 1100 feet per second to 1655 feet per second
yeah my swarm magnum sounds like a 22lr too lol
I got a pellet rifle in my closet, got to wipe the dust of it, but hey, that seems like a common sense idea, I think I will try a thicker oil and try plinking again with it and see how it works for me! Thanks, I never ever would have thought of that!
yeah I prefer thicker oil
vaseline/petroleum jelly, thinned out slightly with WD40 works pretty well
@@PelletPlinker Thank you for the tip!
You can use ATF as well I found it works better and stays on the pellet
i heard this works well too haven't tried yet tho
@@PelletPlinker it does work I had a 1200ft pellet standard one and it worked perfectly for me and even diesel fuel as well
I used pointy 117 slugs by mistake & damaged the breech seal, took many phone calls & looking/asking for new seals for a 20 year old Gamo matic but finally asked one guy in a shop & he said no, but I luckily mentioned they kind of look like a 20mm slice of fuel line & he scratched around in a draw & found 3 in a bag, so that's a good excuse to go to a gun shop
You should of tried silicone spray by Bp blaster it works way better and it won't mess up your seals
still haven't messed up my seals
Is that PB blaster or something else called BP blaster because I'm having reservations I went BP and purchased 91 octane and poured on the my nitro piston break barrel and pellets but the fumes make me ask for clarity if by chance you meant PB blaster
@@Bill_BarneyJr.Man, that sure was a long-ass story for a weak attempt at humor...DERP! 🤪
Holy shit dude, I just tried this on my .177 gamo whisper and it makes it so much louder, and definitely super sonic
Silly question why not use Deisel fuel its a lot cheaper than wd and probably has a higher energy quota per drop and will clean and lube the barrel just the same
Cause most people already have a can of wd-40, or some other petroleum product like vaseline or pellet gun oil
Not everyone drives a diesel car, and already has diesel on hand, and not everyone wants to go to the gas station to fill up a can of diesel just for dumb shit like this
But yeah diesel fuel would probably work better
I moly coated my barrel,it took several rounds to get dialed in. The reason less friction and f.p.s. improved.
please explain molly coating, how it is done and if it is a permanent thing?
@@jimkurk5575 no, it's not permanent. However it burnished the barrel, very smooth. Less friction resulting faster f.p.s.
Vaseline in the skirt of the pellets works much better because it doesn't run out of the pellets now with Red Flight Rounds you seat the Red Flight Round 1st then put a little Vaseline behind it and fire away. In the Beeman Duel Caliber Air Rifle it works great pushing 22cal Rounds down range between 1300 to 1400 FPS with 177 Cal Alloy Pellets around 2,000 FPS. I'll do a video one of these days on Dieseling the Beeman Duel Caliber Air Rifle.
God Bless
Want to see that.
@ThePanman48 Once I had a Steel lock box and shot with a 22CAL Non Lead Red Flight Round and not only did it zip through the lock box it still went about a quarter of a inch into Oak Wood. I was pretty amazed to say the least !
But like I said one of these days I'll do the video on Dieseling with Vaseline it really works great!
God Bless
check out my first diesling video thats what I used
@PelletPlinker Cool, I'll check it out and thanks for the videos.
God Bless
might be worth trying paraffin wax
Have used Amsoil MP-HD wax type oil and gun oils .. I want to try High % Nitro model engine fuel and Castor oil
When I was young I used model "diesel" fuel!
Why don't you explain what "dieseling" at the top of the video is for those who have no idea? Teaching 101.
I guess I dieseled my pellet gun as a kid without knowing there was anything going on. I assumed the oil helped seal the round vs bore space and gave a little better performance? I knew it made a different sound but I never realized there was combustion taking place. I was 12-14 years old and was very sloppy with the oil.
Sprayed my pellets following advice from “ an expert”. A week later the spring broke of my HW97k. ( after 2 years intensive usage)
mileage may vary
Great way to shorten the life of the air rifle.
here fora good time not a long time
Don't do this with a pellet gun you like. This WILL destroy the seals! Yes, it does make a crack when fired and you do get increased velocity and decreased accuracy. It will also coat the bore with burnt hydrocarbons along with leading.
You could also just clean your barrel
Also I've been doing this for years and my gun is still fine so it is what it is
I did this when I was a kid without any clue of what was actually happening 😂 At least I know it was my imagination.
I used to stick gun oil down the barrel when I was a kid thinking it would extend the life of the barrel. But the smoke and smell got addictive and I started doing it more often.
High test octane booster is the best so far that ive used.. sounds like a little firecracker every time.
interesting, might have to try that
WD-40 + pellet guns = good bye seals XD
small price
@@PelletPlinker Have fun replacing them XD
cross that bridge when I get to it
so far I've definitely gotten more than my moneys worth out of these seals
Everyone says this but there’s not a video or post about it happening
@@zummie6334 It happened to me. Take a balloon blow it up and spray some WD-40 on it and then wait...
Use nitro methane, strong mix . Maybe this will work
Spray 100% Bees wax furniture polish onto the pellets and they slide through the barrel quicker as theirs less drag than oil and no dieseling plus the barrel gets lubed at the same time and no damage.been doing this for years.
You must be confused
The point is to diesel the shots
@@PelletPlinker
Nope not confused at all,the point was more power without the dieseling which is what your trying to achieve!!
No I mean the point of this video is dieseling. Dieseling is the goal here.
@@PelletPlinker
Yes I know that but what for??only reason peeps do that is for more power,noise and smoke.(and doesn't do the rifle any good,theres easier ways to gain more power such like pellet head size and weight)and a chronograph to measure speed and power.
You don't understand how power and velocity work.
Using a smaller pellet for more velocity doesn't mean more power. It is lighter so it carries less energy for any given speed.
If you can make a larger pellet go as fast as a smaller pellet though, you are talking about some serious gains.
You will not achieve anything even close to what dieseling can achieve by just lubing pellets. You would need to upgrade the spring or re work the whole piston system.
diesling is a quick an easy fix for a significant amount of extra power (30-50% increase from what I have seen from youtubers who have done chrono tests) and yeah it's not great for your gun, but it's not that bad either. I've done it dozens of times and no damage yet.
Also in the Great Northwest Washington and Oregon both it is legal to have WD-40 in your toolbox if you are fishing or your tackle box it's great bait for sturgeon
why wouldn't it be legal to have wd40?
@@PelletPlinker tree huggers. It makes worms go crazy and since it's made with fish oil it attracts more fish and some people think it's an unfair advantage.
What about walnuts?
Dieseling, the worst thing you can do to a quality Springer. Don't do this.
mine is fine
can you please say more ? why ?
@@brisudamatusthe detonation from the oil or anything used for dieseling causes stronger combustion that causes rubber seals to stretch over time. Rubber will lose its tightness due to this which then causes openings in the seal. If you want to diesel, take your gun apart and make a new seal out of leather for the piston. Leather can withstand the detonation.
Ever try wax? Paraffin maybe. Just drip a candle into the back of them. I'm not sure if there's enough compression to diesel paraffin or not but would be interesting to try.
not sure if it would work since it can't really atomize
Don't do this as it can cause damage to your piston seals, piston head and crack the spring. Take it from a U.K.gunsmith who has seen it first hand. Model aircraft fuel works amazingly well, the compression ignition fuel, it's great fun but will soon kill the gun.
piston dieseling from too much lube =/= pellet dieseling from a small dab of oil
Damage you have seen is from piston chamber dieseling, not pellet dieseling. The piston chamber is capable of holding much more oil/air and thus capable of much greater explosions.
I've been doing this for years out of the same gun, with hundreds of rounds down range. No damage yet.
@@PelletPlinker amazing
@@PelletPlinkerYeah, thanks just the same, but I think I'd much rather take my advice from a professional gunsmith
@@purdyboi8078 Being a gunsmith is incredibly irrelevant here.
You either know how fluid expansion and pressures work or you don't.
The fact that he repaired a gun does not mean he knows exactly what happened to that gun.
The things I am saying are factually and scientifically correct so you can either take it or leave it, but it will still be true regardless of what you personally decide.
If you aren't interested in dieseling your pellet rifle not really sure why you are here other than to feed the algorithm, so I guess thanks for helping me get more views on my video.
We all know... The pressure pushing on the rear of the pellet, causes some spreading of the pellet cup to engage the rifling grooves. The Vaseline or other high viscosity lubricant when used, is forced to the outer edge of the pressure dome formed behind the pellet. This alone will increase the velocity of the pellet by any regulated pressure. Dieseling, is more difficult if at all, to get the velocities consistent. Long long ago I was into competition air gun shooting. I found that pre-sizing/ making the pellet air cup wider, so that it was able to compress as it was pushed into the barrel. Which formed a better seal, and using WD-40 or even 3 in one oil to lube the air pump. gave me the most consistent groups, and velocities. Also more consistent dieseling. With BB's I used 50 weight MC OIl or 90wt gear lube. Zippie fast BB's! Air gunzzz are fun.....
interesting, ill have to experiment with flaring the skirts a little bit, I could see how that would improve consistency for sure
You do realize that by doing this you could damage or eventually destroy your pellet gun right? Dieseling creates much higher chamber pressures than your pellet gun is designed to withstand.
You realize I've been doing this to a un-maintained rifle for several years now, and have dieseled hundreds if not thousands of shots with no issues yet, right?
@@PelletPlinker "look up what Dieseling, is in a pellet rifle ,seems you don't know." like I said dieseling is when the wrong oil is used in the chamber and causes mini explosions that raise pressures and blow seals.~ What your doing is pellet lubes , you may be getting a little of the same effect ,in the barrel,.but it's not the same.
Hi am from the UK 🇬🇧 just come across your channel don't know if you are still doing this
but if you are get vaseline and more important is the thick hand gel we all was using for covid
mix them together
and you will be amazed I have a .22 at 25/30foot it will go through 30mm laminate board clean through
and I have just put a theoben gas ram in it
a 1.77 mm that takes the power to
25 f lb with the pellets done like that
it's amazing and so quite I'VE GOT A BSA LIGHTNING AND I'VE JUST PUT RUBBER WASHERS BETWEEN THE BAFULLS
WITH 5MM HOLE ITS BRILLIANT IT DROPS ANYTHING SOME TIME'S TO MUCH POWER RIPS RATS 🐀 APART😮😂😂
Ps with the pellets done like that easily 35flb 😮
I understand that dieseling is bad for your gun. The small EXPLOSION caused by the oil can damage your gun and not worth any advantage it might be
any sources on these claims? I hear a lot of people say this but have seen no documentation on this.
Meanwhile, all the people who have been dieseling for years have guns that are perfectly fine.
@@PelletPlinker I have been dieseling my Nitro piston .177 air rifle from last 8 years. No a single problem yet.
Would kerosene work or does it have to bee like that charcoal lighter fluid? Or is it is a heavy oil would you use used motor oil or use something like coconut oil?
I'm pretty sure people have also suggested kerosene before so I think it will work
@@PelletPlinker Make kerosene mixed with Crisco.
If it's a spring piston, use petroleum base oil. If it's a gas ram,use 100% silicone oil. But don't do it a whole lot. Hard on the piston seals. A much easier way to get high speed out of an air rifle, is to just buy a high speed air rifle. They act as the deiseling effect and power! My Hatsan mod 125 .177 for 180 bucks on sale shoots well over 1600 fps with super light alloy non lead pellets if I want to do that. Sounds like a 22 rimfire going off! 🤣🤣🤣😆😆😆💥💪😱😱😱
I’m Canada we’re limited to 495FPS before having to have a firearms license
@@TheRealSockon Sorry to learn that! Move to US!!!
When ever we go to Kanada the border guy asks, "do you have any weapons with you?" and I always say" WHAT DO YOU NEED?" 🤣😂🤣😂🤣🤣😂🤪😷😵💫🤠🤠🤠🤠🤠@@TheRealSockon
Old Eley Wasp .22s used to be great for doing this and Did bump up the power!
Don't do this if your gun is spring or gas strut powered. It'll burn the piston seal or breaking the main spring.
not really
@@PelletPlinker I've rebuilt many customers springers through out the last 20 years. It's a common occurrence but you can keep on promoting this. It's been a good side hustle.
You are mistaking pellet dieseling, with piston dieseling.
A tiny bit of oil on a pellet wont do this.
oil in the piston chamber will though, as there is more room for oil, and more room for air, and a much smaller hole to go through.
And for the same reason you can put a piece of paper over a candle flame quickly, and it doesn't burn the paper, dieseling pellets does not burn seals. It happens far too quickly. The dieseling reaction happens in a fraction of a fraction of the amount of time that you would put your hand/piece of paper through a candle flame for, and is a much smaller "flame".
I have never seen damage occur to an air rifle of any type from putting oil on pellets. Every dieseling damage I have ever seen, or heard of, was a result of over lubrication leaving too much residual oil in the piston chamber, resulting in dangerously large combustion, that would not be possible within the breech alone.
@@PelletPlinker I hope you'll take responsibility for your viewers damaged guns.
why the fuck would I?
Springer guns get the best diesel effect. First shot vaporises the propellant and mixes it in vaguely the right sociometric ratio. Second shot is the compression ignition. Much bigger bang and much better chance of coating your rifling with exploded airgun pellet.....
Ta.
still haven't exploded any pellets
@@PelletPlinker Try this: BSA Airsporter, load a pellet into the tap. Put a drop of the propellant of your choice in and close tap. Fire shot and quickly cock the rifle while the vapour is still in the barrel and at about the correct stoichiometric ratio. Load second shot and quickly fire. If you get it perfect, you'll see muzzle flash and hear a very loud report, louder than a .22LR. If you overdo it, pellet and barrel have become one!
Ta.
The WD-40 brand has 4 variants,
first the original, second, Dry Lube Specialist,
third Silicone Specialist and last Penetrant.
The best for air rifles is the Dry Lube, because it doesn't leave a moist remnant inside the barrel.
Dry lube is also recommended for loosening difficult keyed locks
I use walmart brand of vicks vapor rub, fill the pellet skirt about half full, maybe 2/3 full. You will hear the sonic boom (crack!)
I use silicon spray on .50 umerex. it makes a difference
I wonder if setting the pellet would have any effects? Like if ya set it a little deeper would it have the same effect as when people bore our a car cylinder, but on an obviously smaller scale?
I don't know crap about cars but figured it was worth asking.
it would lower compression.
You are getting 2 things confused here too:
Boring a cylinder makes the cylinder wider, not deeper. It allows you to fit a "fatter" piston which I think has something to do with torque or something.
The other thing commonly done, does the opposite of what you are suggesting. They will shave down the heads, specifically the contact point between the head and the cylinder. This puts the "ceiling" of the cylinder head lower/closer to the top of the piston during it's upstroke, decreasing the total volume in the combustion chamber, and thusly increasing compression ratio, and increasing horsepower.
@@PelletPlinker See, I wouldn't have known that... That was really cool to learn. I woulda thought more room for more gas woulda equaled more boom😄
Thanks for taking the time to explain🙂
I woulda responded 3 weeks ago when ya replied, but stupid RUclips never notified me.
Extra velocity is pointless without acracy, the problem with dieseling is the velocity varies.
With an average or shitty rifle you've got that "problem" anyway! Btw, the variation in speed is usually so small that most complainers shouldn't blame this tiny difference on missing the target. 😂🤣
I dunno I can still hit targets just fine, just moves the group up a little
@@PelletPlinker What's your grouping like at 40 yards?
@@taunteratwill1787 Variation in velocity makes a massive difference, spring powered are pretty consistent, unregulated PCP are generally consistent over a number of shots, they have a sweet spot, regulated PCP,s are pretty consistent, this probably doesn't apply to you as you have a shitty rifle,😂
@@hetrodoxly1203 Slightly triggered much? 😋
I was thinking about making an adaptation to suck in "starting fluid" at each pump.
seems like too much
@@PelletPlinker Possibly... But...
Fantastic way to tear up a good air rifle
no it won't
@@PelletPlinker yeah it will
prove it
Just saying things? As usual probably. 😎
@@PelletPlinker You're right. What could have I been thinking? The 2 pump pellet pistols that blew out the seals when I was doing this was purely a coincidence. I recommend now for everyone to diesel their guns
انت لا تحترم الطلقات
ان هزها بهذه الطريقة ووضع يدك في العلبة يجعل الذخيرة تنثني فهي ضعيفة، بدلا من ذلك ، اسكبها في يدك حتى لا تثني اغلب الطلقات عند وضع يدك فيها
it's not that complicated
Dude...WD40 will eat the shit out of your seals. Yes it is on the pellet itself but a portion will kick back into the works and screw up your gun. You can achieve the same effect with Pell gun oil or non detergent transmission oil...no worries.
pellgun oil is what I normally use, this was justa quick and dirty method someone suggested in the comments
And wd40 doesn't hurt seals, dirty seals hurt seals, which WD40 will attract dirt and eventually also dry out leading to non lubricated seals as well. If you are re lubricating, and ideally cleaning the gun you have nothing to worry about
I have found a 50 / 50 mixture of 3-1 oil and grapeseed oil gets a steady 1200 fps with my 22 Ruger Impact. And guess what ? Over 2000 shots and no blown seals. But even if it did i can afford 25© for a new one
News flash...it won't break your seals ,if under 1991fps ...🙂it's tested scientifically...also ask a gunsmith
I'm a gunsmith and it will kill a sub 12ftlb gun quite quickly. Trust me, I've seen it and repaired the damaged seal, piston head and cracked spring on a number of occasions.
@@nicfraipont4184 .. seriously 😂I'm a gunsmith... And a fan of Air guns.... And no I am not a neogliphic...but world war 2 tech.... showed some type of light on air guns and there capabilities..Google the truth 👍🥴
I understand the dieseling effect. More power (velocity)
But as you can't manage the amount of energy you add, accuracy should go down ...
I would like to see the results trying to make a 5 shots group on a target....
Here is some information on how to destroy your air rifle seal at least if not a multitude of other types of damage. This is as useful as putting a rocket on a bike. Absolute nonsense
Why are you even here then?
And also no, not really. Been doing this for years and haven't broken a single seal yet.
@@PelletPlinker I am here to see people do dumb things and to let other new to the sport not to do this, lots have done it and I have seen the results many times. You do your thing man but I strongly recommend to others not to
good thing seals are cheap and easy to replace
some people would probably benefit from blowing their seal anyway. Get their hands dirty and learn how to maintain the thing.
@@PelletPlinker amen
Are you familiar with the term 'dullard'?
I love the skyrim background music lol Question: Can you do this in a co2 pistol?
From my experience no
Could just be that CO2 guns don't usually have enough pressure, but I think it's just that CO2 extinguishes fires, and so wouldn't be conducive to ignition
Brake cleaner helps clean the leading off the rifle grooves also
It'll ruin all the seals and polymer parts and the pellet's BC is not designed for the speed so it'll fly wild. It's just a bad idea all around. If you want supersonic buy a .22 caliber lon rifle powder burner.
fuckin what lmfao
@@PelletPlinker yah it'll fuck yer gun six ways from tuesday. The heart of the burning fuel toasts the seals.
No it doesn't.
I diesel 10 shots out of a 10 shot magazine, and have done so dozens of times out of this gun.
Even 10 dieseled shots back to back with no delay isn't enough to melt or burn a seal.
Have you ever put your hand through a candle flame? You can even take a tissue paper through a candle flame with no damage if you do it fast enough.
Fast enough is the key ingredient here. The explosion and propulsion happens in a fraction of a second. Probably a fraction of a milisecond. Even if it was hot enough to melt the seals, it wouldn't, simply because it doesn't have time to. The fire is gone before it's even there, that's how fast it happens. Same thing applies to the polymer parts, of which there aren't any, except for maybe in the piston if it's made out of polymer. And if you are referring to the polymer in the piston, it's even further from the explosion than the seals are, and is in an EXPANSION chamber, not a COMPRESSION chamber. This means not only the heat energy, but also the velocity energy, will all dissipate extremely quickly as soon as they go from the extremely confined barrel/breech space, to the much larger and more spacious piston chamber. This decreases pressure coming in, and decreases heat coming in (laws of thermodynamics and fluid dynamics).
In other words, you will pretty much never hurt your gun doing this. I still have yet to see any evidence of a single person who has damaged their gun doing this. And the math/science supports this data. Dieseling just won't ruin your seals.
As for "ruining the pellets" this also isn't true. They stay fully intact and fly more accurately since they have more speed and are effected "less" (perceived less over distance, not actually less) by wind and gravity. Your groups will be higher than they were before, since the pellets are moving faster, and are not dropping as much over the same distance.
But the groups will also be tighter, because the pellets are moving faster, and not getting knocked off course as much in that same distance.
And if my cheap pellet gun breaks after 4 years of dieselling the hell out of it, not only did I get my money's worth out of the gun in my opinion anyway, but these videos are already paying for my next air rifle so I wouldn't give a damn anyway.
@@PelletPlinker keep it up then you'll see.
I've been keeping it up, still haven't seen.
There is no scientific data that supports the notion that this would destroy ANY part of the gun.
Starting fluid in a brake barrel works pretty good I have heard!!!😂
I stopped watching after the f bomb. 😘
lmfao okay
@@PelletPlinker it was a great video otherwise. Watching it with my 5yo 😆😮💨
Haha
Maybe try some kerosene with a little bit of WD-40. Kerosene is basically just a cleaner more refined version of diesel fuel, it's basically the same chemical makeup.
Diesel fuel has a self ignition temperature of 210 degrees Celsius and gasoline has a self ignition temperature of 246 degrees Celsius. That's why gasoline is not used in diesel engines even though it is cleaner and more volatile.
It's not so much the volatility that you are looking for to achieve the diesel effect, it is the low self ignition temperature. When you compress the petroleum it raises the temperature enough for self ignition to occur.
You should research which chemicals have the lowest self ignition temperature and try a formula that has those chemicals. With a little research you may be able to come up with some cocktail that works really well. Just make sure you don't get anything that will corrode the insides of the gun. Kerosene should be very safe.
If you mix kerosene or diesel with a little bit of something that contains more energy that would possably give a great effect.
Kerosene is pretty much what powers the SpaceX Falcon 9 rocket, and also every jet airliner you've ever been on. RP-1 and Jet-A or #3 jet fuel and most other jet fuels are basically kerosene with things like anti-gel additives. Diesel fuel is a more oily version of that. You would have to experiment to figure out which performs best.
Don't do this with a good quality airgun.
Finally a voice of reason
@CBC lol idk why you are so obsessed with being anti dieseling in my comments
While you still probably shouldn't do this with a gun you aren't willing to risk damaging; I've been doing this for years and my gun is still fine. Any damage you might do is pretty cheap and easy to fix (cheap rubber seals)
There is nothing unreasonable about wanting to have some fun and increase the velocity of your pellet gun
@@PelletPlinker You will ruin a someones airgun with this one day. Keep WD-40 AWAY FROM ALL AIRGUNS! If you want to increase velocity there are better ways. Like smoothing out your transfer ports. Increasing the hammer spring. Poloshing the hammer and latch. This will just ruin your gun and its seals one day.
To clarify, I am not going to ruin anyone's anything. Adults are capable of making their own decisions.
And also I have already stated before to do this at your own risk, but either way who gives a shit?
So someone ruins a 5 cent rubber o ring, who actually gives a fuck? The only things that can go wrong, are all things that you just recommended replacing/upgrading anyway, so again, who actually cares at that point?
If it's easy to replace for an upgrade, it's easy to replace as a repair. And most people would rather just cross that bridge if and when they get to it, as opposed to rebuilding their 100$ airgun just for some extra FPS. It's a lot easier to just diesel some shots for a little fun.
@@PelletPlinker Broken springs, damaged trigger groups, cooked piston seals are another side effect that can occur. I had a Hatsan 135 diesel so hard the piston came all the way back and hit the latch. My trigger finger stung quite a bit. That wasn't even intentional, that's just excessive lube from the factory.
I'm not saying don't do it, I've done it myself on crappy rifles, but people need to understand, this can do all kinds of damage and you definitely don't want to overdo it.
Try 20w motor oil a lot thicker than wd40 and easier to apply than Vaseline
I wonder how silicone oil would work.
any oil really should work I think
WD 40 can likely deteriorate the plastic pellet clips over time.
No it definitely won't
@@PelletPlinker...said Capt. Clueless
@@purdyboi8078 Why are you even here?
I have first hand experience that proves this wrong, you are the clueless person who keeps giving me more comments on a video that for some reason you are still here leaving comments on even though you have zero interest in.
But back to my first hand experience.
I have been doing this for several years now with the same gun, and the same magazines (notice how I call it a magazine instead of a "pellet clip")
They are all still in perfect condition.
WD40 is literally oil. If you think it deteriorates stuff you might just be retarded.
I have always been told that dieseling will eventually destroy the air rifle seals
eventually must mean a really long time then cause I've been doing this for years and both of my guns are still perfectly fine
Based on the looks of those pellet mags, you are using a gamo rifle. I was just wondering what scope you are using and how it is holding up. Thanks
just the scope that came with the rifle
it's been holding up alright
@PelletPlinker good to hear. I have the magnum pro, and the scope seems good when sighted. However, I've had to sight it in several times prior to use.
what kinda pellets do you use?
theres a good chance your scope is staying mostly sighted, but there is just a lot of variance between shots
Theses guns are engineered and tested with pellets that are so light they are almost impossible to obtain (gamo sells these for like 10x the price of a normal pellet, and they are nearly half the weight of anything you will find)
Using pellets that are too heavy is gonna give you a lot of wild variance, since they aren't going fast enough to stay stable in flight, and their lower speed and higher mass effects how they interact with the rifling of the barrel
Basically, the lighter the pellet, the better results you will get in terms of accuracy
Dieseling definitely doesn't help this at all, but typically the only thing that changes when dieseling is how low you have to aim since they don't drop as much over the same distance, so you can get away with just aiming a few inches lower
if you are using .22 the H&N excite is probably the best/lightest pellet you can find that isn't the gamo overpriced crap
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MOGPAH6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The older it is the better it will probably be50 yrs plus the gun will be nicely balanced, i have fired a number of relatively new ones hard to aim with because theyre way out of balance, i wish i still had my old Relum 2.2 i had it 57 years ago, a good powerful gun perfectly balanced
Not sure what you mean by balanced
Talking about weight distribution of the gun, or consistency of shots?
These gamo break barrels are pretty decent, never had any trouble hitting stuff
Try olive oil or general cocking oil is best.
Hw 35 barracuda works perfect with ether it has a seperate chamber fore the ether
Someone has probably already experimented with this idea but I have not seen it but how would it affect a break barrel air rifle if you replaced the wd40 with diesel fuel
might work better
What happens if you diesel an exploding pellet?
Use a heavy pellet example 16gr if you are shooting a 13 or 14 gr pellet o/k 😊
You should not put WD40 into the barrel or cylinder , pointless action. I referring to Springer Rifles .
Does Silicon oil work too? I use it to lubricate my airguns. I'm too afraid to use the WD-40 in the airguns.
possibly
@@PelletPlinker anyway, some result using the vaseline by my side. I tried it in a Diana Eleven cal.177 and in a Gamo P900 same caliber. The Diana got the best result and the P900 just more power (pretty weak as a
Ive heard that it can blow your seals out. Whether that's only 12ft lb,s i don't know.
I've heard that too. Never seen it or experienced it though.
I've dieseled at least 100 shots through both guns and no damage yet
@@PelletPlinker 100 shots is too few.
When you are in a place like me [West Africa] where the difference between a damaged gun, seals all busted etc, and a working airgun is NOT being able to pop into the shops for a repair, or a replacement - you keep away from all these gimmicks.
I was interested in dieseling to, but I have read many stories of how the oils, the vapours and the explosions wreck the internal seals and make airguns inoperable.
While it looks like fun, and could help me with range - I do not think I would want to try this.
Too few for what?
100 shots is plenty to test dieseling effect on a rifle.
If it was truly bad for the rifle, it wouldn't make it through 100 shots.
You read some bullshit from some kids online who don't know what they are talking about and fell for it. Find me one video or one scholarly paper illustrating the damages caused by pellet dieseling: you probably can't
Meanwhile there are hundreds of videos of people dieseling that have had no problems with their guns after decades of doing this.
Believe what you want and do what you want, but this isn't going to hurt your gun. I also find it hard to believe you can get an entire air rifle in west africa, but you can't find a single rubber o ring in africa. You don't need to take your gun to the shop to fix it, you just need to pop the o ring out of the breech and replace it.
@@PelletPlinker Sorry o... Please do not be vexed. You are getting angry over this.
I just stated my situation, that's all.
I just feel [IMHO] that if "dieseling" is such a good thing for thousands of rounds, Airgun Manufacturers would have mentioned it in their documentation, and there would have been an industry for it already: manufacturers would have long created a "pre-dieselled" pellet and made BILLION$ or something.
Please, do not be offended, enjoy your dieselling.
@@PelletPlinker I assure you there are a few Air Rifles in West Africa, just like there are a few Shotguns too in private hands. You can check out my videos on my RUclips Channel, and read my articles on "The Firearm Blog". [We also have cars, and tall buildings, airports, mobile phones and broadband internet.]
Of course we have O-Rings here, and many of us travel on vacations and shopping trips abroad.
But, we do not have warranties, we do not have shops to just walk in and fix a damaged Airgun or Firearm, or walk in and purchase a replacement.
When one has an asset like that, it becomes a family heirloom - I hope to hand my Gamo .177 Air Rifle to my youngest son when he is 18 [He is already shooting it now at 11] and maybe hand over my Puncher Breaker Bullpup .22 bolt-action Air Rifle too.
But for now, knowing how much I got them, the stress I go through daily to own them - they will be treated preciously and strictly according to the manufacturers' manuals.
Thank you.
I wonder how an engine start spray would go....
You should try pushing one pellet up the rifling of the barrel about a half inch and then take a siringe and put a drop behind it and put a petter behind it.
sounds like a good way to either get a pellet stuck or over pressure the gun
I'm wondering I have a lot of pellets stored inside outside shed should I just apply wd40 in all of them and store them. I just want to keep them new
never worried about that really
@@PelletPlinker thanks man I got that out of my mind.
My pellet gun went faster than sound . Still working ?
I get the fact that the lubricant lubricates the barrel and creates a seal between the pellet and the bore. What I don't get is the part where you mentioned an explosion? Can you explain this in more detail?
So the lubrication wasn't really a point of focus, I was just mentioning that it probably also does this to at least some degree, but that is just a theory.
What is happening here is that petroleum ignites under enough pressure, which is how a diesel engine works. Gas engines use a spark plug, whereas a diesel engine just uses the sheer pressure of the combustion chamber to ignite the fuel.
This can also happen on a smaller scale behind the pellet when the pressure in the piston/breech area is high enough, creating a small explosion that adds a little extra velocity to the pellet, and of course a louder sound and a little smoke puff
@@PelletPlinker - That works with CO2?
Probably not with CO2 since it would just put out the "fire"
@@PelletPlinker - Ok. So you were using a pump-action air rifle. That's what I was wondering.
It's not the pressure that ignites fuel in diesel engines [or guns] - it's the heat caused by the pressure. The temperature can be raised to typically around 900 degrees C by the compression stroke of many diesel vehicles. @Plinker
Funny thing you mention Dieseling. I happen to be a Diesel mechanic. WD 40 works wonders. Why waste time on bbs and pellets you're just going to shoot anyway?