I ENJOYED the video, and NOT being an electrician myself, I liked your finished look. I do agree with some of the comments from the pros, and you can tell who they are from the commentors that just want to crap on your efforts, about connectors, and wire routing. My only concern, and I would bet anything you have already corrected it, was the ground wire in the metal box. Hell, maybe you did it during the install and it just got cut during editing? Not many have commented on the video production, it was excellent! The audio, the close up shots and then wide shots - all of it. I wish you all the success, I hope my first few video's come out this good.
@@ghostwriter310 I appreciate the positivity. Not everyone does things the same way and yes me not being a professional I’m certain there are ways to do things better. So far though never had an issue with it. Thanks for watching!
The article in NEC for welders is 680. I do not know where you got that the receptacle is required to be dedicated. I’ve never seen that in NEC. In Article 680 it says how many can be on one receptacle. I saw some commenters saying your going to burn up the cord because you put it on 50 amps. 680 says the branch circuit can be 200% above the load. At 200 amps, it pulls 24.8. So 50 amp works by NEC. Things you missed. You are required to put a connector on cables, not nipples. Both ends. You used the wrong box, the receptacle is supposed to be screwed to the surface cover and the surface cover to the metal box. Now for the big unsafe one. You did not connect the equipment ground conductor to the box with an approved green screw. The box and cover could be energized and shock someone. Especially on a concrete floor. The concrete is grounded. Best wishes, Kevin
Came here to say this… box was not grounded, that’s a no no. I’m not an electrician and I know that much. I’m about to add a 240v outlet in the garage for my son’s Vulcan Protig 205. I got a nema weather proof box that I’ll run 6/2 wire to and probably do a 30 amp breaker. Was going to do 50 but the machine is rated for 25A at 175 Amp DC stick and 22A for 205 Amp AC TIG, I want the breaker to fail before the welder. Also, I’m trashing that included 14 awg pig tail and making a new 20’ power lead with a new Leviton L6-20R end for the box and a high quality RV style 6-50P end on 12 awg SOOW cord.
The 6/2 cable is code compliant and is definitely rated for 50A as long as he didn't use any 60C devices on the circuit. If this receptacle is dedicated for welding, he could actually go with lighter gauge wire according to NEC 630. Might also be where he got the idea that only a single receptacle can be on the circuit. 630.11(A) discusses ampacity of conductors for a single welder. Given his welder has a max input of 24.8A, he might actually be able to get away with 12 gauge wire, which is rated for 25A at 75C. That's before even derating based on duty cycle. 240.4 technically lists 12 gauge as limited to 20A and 10 gauge to 30A for overcurrent protection, max breaker size, but the exceptions are listed in 240.4(G) which includes electric welder circuit conductors. Bottom line, he could probably use 12-2 with ground, but as soon as anything that can draw more than 25A was plugged into the receptacle, it would be a code violation. That's why most people just go with 6-2 which is covered all the way down to a 60C rating of 55A. The receptacle will now be ready even for an electric car charger up to 50A. The box and cover plate choices were a bit confused, but other than being against using equipment for stated intended purposes, not sure it is a specific code violation. Would be happy to be wrong though. There is likely a code mention of boxes having to be sealed with no gaps I imagine could apply. As for the grounding, yes he definitely needs the box grounded by the actual ground conductor. As per 250.148 Continuity of Equipment Grounding Conductors and Attachment in Boxes. Metal boxes require a ground used for no other purposes and removing the receptacle must not interrupt ground continuity. In this case, his receptacle does ground to the box, so technically the box is still grounded through the conductor screwed into the receptacle. However, it would not be grounded as soon as the receptacle is removed, and it's still not code compliant. Just to note, I'm half writing this to add info for other people and half to continue researching for myself. Any corrections and additions welcome.
Just to add on to this, a comment I left in another reply. Technically per 630.12 his 24.8A welder should not be on a 50A breaker, as that is over 200% of the primary current rating. However, that section is about dedicated welder circuits. If this is considered a general use receptacle, and if the conductors are rated as such rather than being smaller based on being a dedicated welder circuit, I'm not sure the code even applies. It is, for example, impossible for a person to know the ampacity of a breaker before plugging in a welder. If they see a 50A receptacle which is not marked as being rated to only 30A, how would they know? Is the welder user or the electrician suddenly in violation of code if a 24.8A welder is plugged into a 50A receptacle on a 50A breaker with appropriate wire? I don't think so. Unless the receptacle is wired and marked as a dedicated welder outlet, I think this is code compliant. I could be wrong. Not an electrician.
Good install, for anyone doing something similar make sure to use 3/4 wire clamps to secure both the wire running to the outlet and to the breaker box which ensures it can’t be pulled or forced out.
One of the better videos I've seen despite you not being a professional. There are definitely some missed bits and a few questionable choices, but I understand it was a process. The main thing, as others have stated, is you definitely need to bond that metal box with a dedicated ground conductor. I would also use a different box for proper mounting of the receptacle, though I'm not sure it's a code violation. Hope it's still working well for you.
I read all of you’re responses. I appreciate actual advice and helpful criticism. I really am the true DIYer on this project. It was a learning process and with such there will be mistakes. Everything has worked out great with no issues but I do want to correct the few mistakes I made. Again I appreciate all the helpful knowledge!
@@JordanMoree Thanks! I actually prefer having the receptacle mounted to the box for extra stiffness like you have it, but to eliminate the gap I'll use a mud ring on the box that the receptacle will mount to and then a wall plate to cover the receptacle. So I plan to use a Raco 196 bracket box as I'm going to a stud, but Raco 239 would work better for surface mount like yours, Raco 778 plaster ring, Hubbell HBL9367 receptacle, and Hubbell SS703 as a cover which will mount to the receptacle with 4 screws. People will complain you shouldn't use a wall plate as a cover on exposed work, but this way the receptacle and cover will both be mounted with 4 screws and the thick stamped mud ring will transfer the load to the box. Plus if I ever put walls over the studs, I'll already have the flush mount wall plate. The 703 cover is the correct 2.15" opening for the receptacle too. A simpler install would be something like Raco 239, Hubbell HBL9367, and Raco 810C as the cover which is again correctly sized. In that case, the receptacle mounts to the cover with 2 screws and the cover mounts to the box with 2 screws. I just think relying on the two small screws pulling on the center of the cover seems less robust. At any rate, as they say, if you have two electricians in a room, you'll get three opinions. I'm just a DIY amateur as well, but I'm trying to research as much as possible and follow code. Look into Wago connectors. The larger ones work for 10 gauge. Can use a wire nut of course. Then look up how to pigtail your grounds. Probably the easiest way to get that box code compliant. Other people like to wrap the ground conductor around the ground screw and then go to the receptacle, but I don't technically think that's code compliant due to the ground conductor having to be only for grounding the box. Check out the video "How To Ground A Metal Box With And Without A Green Pigtail" which goes over the difference. 250.148 is pretty explicit that a metal box must be grounded by a grounding screw that shall be used for no other purpose. So you could interpret that to mean it just can't be a fastening screw or holding anything together, or you could interpret it to mean that ground screw can only be used to ground the box and not to carry on ground to the receptacle. I think technically the daisy chain is to code, but it's gonna vary by inspector. A pigtail moves the box failure point from the screw and continuous wire to the pigtail connector which gives a higher chance of the receptacle maintaining its ground, I would think. Hard to say which is truly superior. Lots of arguments about it. 😂
In your case, if you have another couple of inches of 10 awg solid copper ground from the NM-B cable you bought, cut about 4-5 inches of the ground copper. Connect the new solid copper you just cut into the back of outlet with your existing ground. Now you have 2 grounds where the original is going back to the panel and the new one can be attached to the box using a green screw. Doesn’t matter how the box is grounded just that it is grounded. You could have also used a single ground and looped it over the ground screw as described in the earlier post. That won’t work in your situation since you already cut the wire so don’t worry about it. The point being that as long as the box is grounded doesn’t matter how.
P.S. good job and I am sure the wiring will last/work well for a very long time! You used the correct wire size, breaker size, and installed the wire in such a way as to reduce the chance of any nicks in the sheathings which greatly reduces the risk of the box getting energized and shocking someone.
Man, bravo! You made an electrical install video where you completely disregarded even the slightest respect for the NEC and you haven’t been slayed by the RUclips wanna-be electrician guild! LOL good for you! Good job on getting your outlet installed.
Not sure if you realize it, but the power cord for your welder cannot support 50amp. The 14awg cable will melt if the current draw gets anywhere near 50amps. I would suggest you install a 30amp breaker.
Hahaha no shit! I don’t think the manual for the Vulcan recommends anything bigger than 40 amp. My AHP Tig welder requires 50A but my HF Titanium 200 says to use a 30A max for the 240v option. I have two separate 240v receptacles for each welder because of this.
The breaker does not determine the current flow in the circuit. It LIMITS the current flow. If the welder only requires 15 amps to operate, then it will only draw 15 amps, ...no matter the size of the breaker. The power cord is sized by the manufacturer for the power requirements of their welder and as such will be fine even if you had a 200 amp breaker with 00 AWG cable in the supply circuit. Remember, it is the appliance that determines the current draw. The breaker merely limits the maximum draw in order to protect the supply circuit wires.
@@michaelladigo2395 You are correct. It could be on a 100A breaker and it wouldn't matter because the device would only draw as much current as it needs. Otherwise, lights that only draw 1/10th of an Amp shouldn't be on a 20 Amp circuit, hahaha. People who don't understand even understand basic electrical principles should not give advice. The 50A breaker, wire, and receptacle future proof him for a larger welder.
I like diy videos like this. They both inspire and point out the value of the professional. Yes, I can admit that about anyone can connect two wires together and it is the knowledge you pay for. In this welding shop, should a client or friend touch your ungrounded metal box, they can sue you as the home owner, you as the installer, and your insurance company for medical bills plus. If you did not check with the building department for a permit, your insurance company may be able to not cover this incident. I am not with my code book so I will leave some references general. Yes, metal boxes must be connected to the equipment grounding conductor. Yes, there is a separate NEC section for welders and their circuits ... Around 725?
Continued Yes all garage recepticles even 250/240 vac now 2020 must be GFCI protected 210.8 And more. If these comments make me a bad guy, we must ask, "Did I just save a readers' life?". Electrical rules are generally written in the blood of those that are careless or do not know. Inspectors and electricians see the rules as deadly safety issues and hope to prevent ugly. Remember "KNOWLEDGE IS THE TREASURE THAT YOU CAN GIVE AWAY AND STILL HAVE ALL YOU HAD." so pick many brains. Say safe out there.
Technically his box is grounded through the receptacle right now, which does have a ground strap from the ground terminal, but no it isn't code compliant. He needs a dedicated ground to the box and to the receptacle. Just by switching the ground to a screw in the box, he might be code compliant. Per 250.146, "If a metal box is mounted on the surface, the direct metal-to-metal contact between the device yoke or strap to the box shall be permitted to provide the required effective ground-fault current path." His receptacle is self-grounding. The only reason I'm not 100% confident this would be code compliant is if this applies to 30A and 50A receptacles or only 15A and 20A. There is also mention of contact devices or yokes which says it must be in a flush type box, but not even that the box has to be flush mounted. I think he would technically be covered by that code as well, provided it applies to 50A receptacles. Either way, he needs to switch the ground to the box, and for the most safety he should pigtail a ground to the device as well. Current chances of burning the house down or electrocuting someone are very low, but the code is there for a reason.
Want a welder thats better than the OMNIPRO 220 check out ARC Captain they sell the best welders for a very nice price OMNIPRO over prices their stuff same for Titanium You can get a 50 amp plasma cutter for 250$ does the same as titanium but its cheaper but has better quality better duty cycle I been using it for 8 months almost constantly I haven't had a issue Also about issues you get a 2 year warranty with them Harbor freight gives you a 90 day warranty unless you pay more money to extend that for a year to 3 years which cost a lot more money
Nice work but why not just come out the side of the service panel (shorter distance) since the wire is already in the wall and you cut through studs in the ceiling?
Same thought. Originally he wanted to hide it all in the wall and clearly didn't want to cut out big sections. For some reason he couldn't feed into the top of the panel so decided to conduit to go up. Overall would have been a lot less wire and hassle to conduit to the right of the panel, but you know, best laid plans.
I have the 220 Omni pro coming. It has an LCD screen. I’m going to be installing a 50 amp breaker like you. Do you know if the LCD screen will need the 4th neutral wire?
Little late for you, but Omni Pro 220 welder uses a same 6-50 plug, so no ground. That said, I recommend using a 14-50 outlet with neutral, and you can use an adapter for the welder. That way, you can run other loads if you want, like plugging in a trailer, an electric range, a small compressor (
Why didn't you just use a knockout on the side of the box? Then you could avoid all that crap in the attic and just needed 3 foot of wire? I don't get it man.
That was last weekends project. I added a 110v and 220v below the panel because you always need more power in more locations! What's the voltage drop on 1.5 foot of wire? :)
Not for a welder outlet only 2 hots and ground. I just did this project only ran it 75 foot underground and consulted with my brother in law who is an electrician... the neutral wire is only needed if you are planning to split up circuit for 120v like running a sub panel or an Rv
Dude i all the sudden related to with the little one, and realized, we live in the same world, im watching this video to get 220 for my welder and the ol' lady never lets me ge tthat kind of work done, lol
I hope your house don’t burn down but if it does your homeowners insurance will not pay for it. You need 6/3 for that breaker two hots one neutral and a ground bonded to the box
Incorrect. 6-2 is perfectly acceptable for this application. You may not use a neutral as a ground for this receptacle, so there would be no purpose of the neutral wire unless you marked it as a ground at both ends and used it as a ground rather than a neutral. This install was mostly correct other than the metal box needing to be grounded by the ground conductor itself.
Replying to your comment that you can have as many plugs you want on a 30 or 40 amp breaker. On a 20 amp breaker you can put 10 points on it meaning in one room each plug counts as 1 point and ceiling fans count as 2 points. So it’s safe to say 7 plugs and a ceiling fan in one room for one 20 amp breaker.
I think the only thing missing is that the metal receptacle needs to be grounded? Also some 2020 standards require gfci I know there’s something about romex through pvc as well but I’d have to look it up
Why did you use a 50 Amp breaker? I understand the NEMA 6-50R which is rated as a 50 Amp Receptacle but did you not bother pulling out your manual for your Vulcan Welder? I don’t have that exact model Vulcan but do have another one of the dual voltage 110/220 Welders from Vulcan and it clearly states in the owners manual what the Max Amperage is for each Type or Process of Welding and at what Voltage so the Amps for 110/120 and then the Amps for 220/240. My Vulcan Tig and Stick is only like 25.8 Amps at 220/240 Volts so a 30 Amp Breaker running the NEMA 6-50R is more than sufficient and actually putting a heavier Amp breaker like a 50 Amp Breaker on it can easily cause the breaker to not trip when it should trip and then damaging your welder.
Circuit protection is just that, ...Circuit Protection. They are not appliance protection. They are there to keep you from burning up the wires in your walls, not to protect whatever you have plugged into the circuit.
His welder may not be the only appliance he wants to plug into that outlet. Just as you plug anything and everything 1/4A to 15A rated into your 110V wall outlets in your house, you can do the same with your 220V outlets up to the amp capability of the supplying circuit. As long as the supplying breaker / wires / receptacle combination are all sized to 50A, it is just fine no matter the appliance plugged into it, ...up to 50A, of course.
@@dpetrides Technically per 630.12 his 24.8A welder should not be on a 50A breaker, as that is over 200% of the primary current rating. However, that section is about dedicated welder circuits. If this is considered a general use receptacle, and if the conductors are rated as such rather than being smaller based on being a dedicated welder circuit, I'm not sure the code even applies. It is, for example, impossible for a person to know the ampacity of a breaker before plugging in a welder. If they see a 50A receptacle which is not marked as being rated to only 30A, how would they know? Is the welder user or the electrician suddenly in violation of code if a 24.8A welder is plugged into a 50A receptacle on a 50A breaker with appropriate wire? I don't think so. Unless the receptacle is wired and marked as a dedicated welder outlet, I think this is code compliant. I could be wrong. Not an electrician.
You went up, across and all the way back down. Why didn't you just come out of the side of the box with a short piece of wire right into the side of the receptacle? Another thing, you need some red 1/2" heat shrink on both ends of that white wire because white means neutral and you don't want to White in there, someone will come along and think it's a neutral
Want a welder that's better than the OMNIPRO 220 check out ARC Captain they sell the best welders for a very nice price OMNIPRO over prices their stuff same for Titanium You can get a 50 amp plasma cutter for 250$ does the same as titanium but its cheaper but has better quality better duty cycle I been using it for 8 months almost constantly I haven't had a issue Also about issues you get a 2 year warranty with them Harbor freight gives you a 90 day warranty unless you pay more money to extend that for a year to 3 years which cost a lot more money And no I'm not a bot I just don't want people to get scammed because everything at that store that is a machine that welds is over priced and you only get a 90 day warranty
Do you suggest a specific TIG Welder. I’ve had great success out of the Vulcan mig but I’m open to better cheaper alternatives for the TIG. Won’t be getting one just yet but future plans make me want one.
@@JordanMoree I absolutely recommend PrimeWeld. The price is great, the performance is awesome, the customer service is amazing. I just got one for myself and I'm rewiring my garage for 240V to use it right now.
I ENJOYED the video, and NOT being an electrician myself, I liked your finished look. I do agree with some of the comments from the pros, and you can tell who they are from the commentors that just want to crap on your efforts, about connectors, and wire routing. My only concern, and I would bet anything you have already corrected it, was the ground wire in the metal box. Hell, maybe you did it during the install and it just got cut during editing? Not many have commented on the video production, it was excellent! The audio, the close up shots and then wide shots - all of it. I wish you all the success, I hope my first few video's come out this good.
@@ghostwriter310 I appreciate the positivity. Not everyone does things the same way and yes me not being a professional I’m certain there are ways to do things better. So far though never had an issue with it. Thanks for watching!
The article in NEC for welders is 680. I do not know where you got that the receptacle is required to be dedicated. I’ve never seen that in NEC. In Article 680 it says how many can be on one receptacle. I saw some commenters saying your going to burn up the cord because you put it on 50 amps. 680 says the branch circuit can be 200% above the load. At 200 amps, it pulls 24.8. So 50 amp works by NEC. Things you missed. You are required to put a connector on cables, not nipples. Both ends. You used the wrong box, the receptacle is supposed to be screwed to the surface cover and the surface cover to the metal box. Now for the big unsafe one. You did not connect the equipment ground conductor to the box with an approved green screw. The box and cover could be energized and shock someone. Especially on a concrete floor. The concrete is grounded. Best wishes, Kevin
Came here to say this… box was not grounded, that’s a no no. I’m not an electrician and I know that much. I’m about to add a 240v outlet in the garage for my son’s Vulcan Protig 205. I got a nema weather proof box that I’ll run 6/2 wire to and probably do a 30 amp breaker. Was going to do 50 but the machine is rated for 25A at 175 Amp DC stick and 22A for 205 Amp AC TIG, I want the breaker to fail before the welder. Also, I’m trashing that included 14 awg pig tail and making a new 20’ power lead with a new Leviton L6-20R end for the box and a high quality RV style 6-50P end on 12 awg SOOW cord.
Yeah there are quite a few code violations here. Most are minor, but would never pass inspection.
The 6/2 cable is code compliant and is definitely rated for 50A as long as he didn't use any 60C devices on the circuit. If this receptacle is dedicated for welding, he could actually go with lighter gauge wire according to NEC 630. Might also be where he got the idea that only a single receptacle can be on the circuit. 630.11(A) discusses ampacity of conductors for a single welder. Given his welder has a max input of 24.8A, he might actually be able to get away with 12 gauge wire, which is rated for 25A at 75C. That's before even derating based on duty cycle. 240.4 technically lists 12 gauge as limited to 20A and 10 gauge to 30A for overcurrent protection, max breaker size, but the exceptions are listed in 240.4(G) which includes electric welder circuit conductors. Bottom line, he could probably use 12-2 with ground, but as soon as anything that can draw more than 25A was plugged into the receptacle, it would be a code violation. That's why most people just go with 6-2 which is covered all the way down to a 60C rating of 55A. The receptacle will now be ready even for an electric car charger up to 50A.
The box and cover plate choices were a bit confused, but other than being against using equipment for stated intended purposes, not sure it is a specific code violation. Would be happy to be wrong though. There is likely a code mention of boxes having to be sealed with no gaps I imagine could apply.
As for the grounding, yes he definitely needs the box grounded by the actual ground conductor. As per 250.148 Continuity of Equipment Grounding Conductors and Attachment in Boxes. Metal boxes require a ground used for no other purposes and removing the receptacle must not interrupt ground continuity. In this case, his receptacle does ground to the box, so technically the box is still grounded through the conductor screwed into the receptacle. However, it would not be grounded as soon as the receptacle is removed, and it's still not code compliant.
Just to note, I'm half writing this to add info for other people and half to continue researching for myself. Any corrections and additions welcome.
Just to add on to this, a comment I left in another reply. Technically per 630.12 his 24.8A welder should not be on a 50A breaker, as that is over 200% of the primary current rating. However, that section is about dedicated welder circuits. If this is considered a general use receptacle, and if the conductors are rated as such rather than being smaller based on being a dedicated welder circuit, I'm not sure the code even applies. It is, for example, impossible for a person to know the ampacity of a breaker before plugging in a welder. If they see a 50A receptacle which is not marked as being rated to only 30A, how would they know? Is the welder user or the electrician suddenly in violation of code if a 24.8A welder is plugged into a 50A receptacle on a 50A breaker with appropriate wire? I don't think so. Unless the receptacle is wired and marked as a dedicated welder outlet, I think this is code compliant. I could be wrong. Not an electrician.
Music is a distraction 🤦♂️
Good install, for anyone doing something similar make sure to use 3/4 wire clamps to secure both the wire running to the outlet and to the breaker box which ensures it can’t be pulled or forced out.
One of the better videos I've seen despite you not being a professional. There are definitely some missed bits and a few questionable choices, but I understand it was a process. The main thing, as others have stated, is you definitely need to bond that metal box with a dedicated ground conductor. I would also use a different box for proper mounting of the receptacle, though I'm not sure it's a code violation. Hope it's still working well for you.
I read all of you’re responses. I appreciate actual advice and helpful criticism. I really am the true DIYer on this project. It was a learning process and with such there will be mistakes. Everything has worked out great with no issues but I do want to correct the few mistakes I made. Again I appreciate all the helpful knowledge!
@@JordanMoree Thanks! I actually prefer having the receptacle mounted to the box for extra stiffness like you have it, but to eliminate the gap I'll use a mud ring on the box that the receptacle will mount to and then a wall plate to cover the receptacle. So I plan to use a Raco 196 bracket box as I'm going to a stud, but Raco 239 would work better for surface mount like yours, Raco 778 plaster ring, Hubbell HBL9367 receptacle, and Hubbell SS703 as a cover which will mount to the receptacle with 4 screws. People will complain you shouldn't use a wall plate as a cover on exposed work, but this way the receptacle and cover will both be mounted with 4 screws and the thick stamped mud ring will transfer the load to the box. Plus if I ever put walls over the studs, I'll already have the flush mount wall plate. The 703 cover is the correct 2.15" opening for the receptacle too. A simpler install would be something like Raco 239, Hubbell HBL9367, and Raco 810C as the cover which is again correctly sized. In that case, the receptacle mounts to the cover with 2 screws and the cover mounts to the box with 2 screws. I just think relying on the two small screws pulling on the center of the cover seems less robust.
At any rate, as they say, if you have two electricians in a room, you'll get three opinions. I'm just a DIY amateur as well, but I'm trying to research as much as possible and follow code. Look into Wago connectors. The larger ones work for 10 gauge. Can use a wire nut of course. Then look up how to pigtail your grounds. Probably the easiest way to get that box code compliant. Other people like to wrap the ground conductor around the ground screw and then go to the receptacle, but I don't technically think that's code compliant due to the ground conductor having to be only for grounding the box. Check out the video "How To Ground A Metal Box With And Without A Green Pigtail" which goes over the difference. 250.148 is pretty explicit that a metal box must be grounded by a grounding screw that shall be used for no other purpose. So you could interpret that to mean it just can't be a fastening screw or holding anything together, or you could interpret it to mean that ground screw can only be used to ground the box and not to carry on ground to the receptacle. I think technically the daisy chain is to code, but it's gonna vary by inspector. A pigtail moves the box failure point from the screw and continuous wire to the pigtail connector which gives a higher chance of the receptacle maintaining its ground, I would think. Hard to say which is truly superior. Lots of arguments about it. 😂
In your case, if you have another couple of inches of 10 awg solid copper ground from the NM-B cable you bought, cut about 4-5 inches of the ground copper. Connect the new solid copper you just cut into the back of outlet with your existing ground. Now you have 2 grounds where the original is going back to the panel and the new one can be attached to the box using a green screw.
Doesn’t matter how the box is grounded just that it is grounded. You could have also used a single ground and looped it over the ground screw as described in the earlier post. That won’t work in your situation since you already cut the wire so don’t worry about it.
The point being that as long as the box is grounded doesn’t matter how.
P.S. good job and I am sure the wiring will last/work well for a very long time! You used the correct wire size, breaker size, and installed the wire in such a way as to reduce the chance of any nicks in the sheathings which greatly reduces the risk of the box getting energized and shocking someone.
Great job, curious as to why you didnt just drill through the top plate and come though one of the knockouts at the top of the box?
Man, bravo! You made an electrical install video where you completely disregarded even the slightest respect for the NEC and you haven’t been slayed by the RUclips wanna-be electrician guild! LOL good for you! Good job on getting your outlet installed.
Its his house let him burn it down
Not sure if you realize it, but the power cord for your welder cannot support 50amp. The 14awg cable will melt if the current draw gets anywhere near 50amps. I would suggest you install a 30amp breaker.
Hi I have a question to you the 110 v. for Lincoln Weder 225AC is OK??
Hahaha no shit! I don’t think the manual for the Vulcan recommends anything bigger than 40 amp. My AHP Tig welder requires 50A but my HF Titanium 200 says to use a 30A max for the 240v option. I have two separate 240v receptacles for each welder because of this.
The breaker does not determine the current flow in the circuit. It LIMITS the current flow. If the welder only requires 15 amps to operate, then it will only draw 15 amps, ...no matter the size of the breaker. The power cord is sized by the manufacturer for the power requirements of their welder and as such will be fine even if you had a 200 amp breaker with 00 AWG cable in the supply circuit. Remember, it is the appliance that determines the current draw. The breaker merely limits the maximum draw in order to protect the supply circuit wires.
@@michaelladigo2395 You are correct. It could be on a 100A breaker and it wouldn't matter because the device would only draw as much current as it needs. Otherwise, lights that only draw 1/10th of an Amp shouldn't be on a 20 Amp circuit, hahaha. People who don't understand even understand basic electrical principles should not give advice. The 50A breaker, wire, and receptacle future proof him for a larger welder.
Love the little electrician! Nice video!
Home depot prices have shot up since you've done your project.
I did my 240v welder outlet yesterday.
And prices keep going up!
I like diy videos like this. They both inspire and point out the value of the professional. Yes, I can admit that about anyone can connect two wires together and it is the knowledge you pay for.
In this welding shop, should a client or friend touch your ungrounded metal box, they can sue you as the home owner, you as the installer, and your insurance company for medical bills plus. If you did not check with the building department for a permit, your insurance company may be able to not cover this incident.
I am not with my code book so I will leave some references general.
Yes, metal boxes must be connected to the equipment grounding conductor.
Yes, there is a separate NEC section for welders and their circuits ... Around 725?
Continued
Yes all garage recepticles even 250/240 vac now 2020 must be GFCI protected 210.8
And more.
If these comments make me a bad guy, we must ask, "Did I just save a readers' life?". Electrical rules are generally written in the blood of those that are careless or do not know. Inspectors and electricians see the rules as deadly safety issues and hope to prevent ugly.
Remember "KNOWLEDGE IS THE TREASURE THAT YOU CAN GIVE AWAY AND STILL HAVE ALL YOU HAD." so pick many brains.
Say safe out there.
Technically his box is grounded through the receptacle right now, which does have a ground strap from the ground terminal, but no it isn't code compliant. He needs a dedicated ground to the box and to the receptacle. Just by switching the ground to a screw in the box, he might be code compliant. Per 250.146, "If a metal box is mounted on the surface, the direct metal-to-metal contact between the device yoke or strap to the box shall be permitted to provide the required effective ground-fault current path." His receptacle is self-grounding. The only reason I'm not 100% confident this would be code compliant is if this applies to 30A and 50A receptacles or only 15A and 20A. There is also mention of contact devices or yokes which says it must be in a flush type box, but not even that the box has to be flush mounted. I think he would technically be covered by that code as well, provided it applies to 50A receptacles. Either way, he needs to switch the ground to the box, and for the most safety he should pigtail a ground to the device as well. Current chances of burning the house down or electrocuting someone are very low, but the code is there for a reason.
Thanks for this video. Just bought the omnipro 220 and am looking to do the same.
Want a welder thats better than the OMNIPRO 220 check out ARC Captain they sell the best welders for a very nice price OMNIPRO over prices their stuff same for Titanium You can get a 50 amp plasma cutter for 250$ does the same as titanium but its cheaper but has better quality better duty cycle I been using it for 8 months almost constantly I haven't had a issue Also about issues you get a 2 year warranty with them Harbor freight gives you a 90 day warranty unless you pay more money to extend that for a year to 3 years which cost a lot more money
Nice work but why not just come out the side of the service panel (shorter distance) since the wire is already in the wall and you cut through studs in the ceiling?
I was wondering the same thing. A lot less work and wire.
Same thought. Originally he wanted to hide it all in the wall and clearly didn't want to cut out big sections. For some reason he couldn't feed into the top of the panel so decided to conduit to go up. Overall would have been a lot less wire and hassle to conduit to the right of the panel, but you know, best laid plans.
Dude you didn't Bond your box.... Dangerous
Turned out great !! You made it look super easy.
I have the 220 Omni pro coming. It has an LCD screen. I’m going to be installing a 50 amp breaker like you. Do you know if the LCD screen will need the 4th neutral wire?
Little late for you, but Omni Pro 220 welder uses a same 6-50 plug, so no ground.
That said, I recommend using a 14-50 outlet with neutral, and you can use an adapter for the welder. That way, you can run other loads if you want, like plugging in a trailer, an electric range, a small compressor (
I like you’re particular in installing. Often it gets rough! How do you like the Vulcan? Considering a Miller, Vulcan a bit more reasonable in price??
I don’t have to use it that often but when I do it’s worked great!
Why didn't you just use a knockout on the side of the box? Then you could avoid all that crap in the attic and just needed 3 foot of wire? I don't get it man.
Nice job brother, gotta ask, why didn’t you mount the outlet directly below the panel?
That was last weekends project. I added a 110v and 220v below the panel because you always need more power in more locations! What's the voltage drop on 1.5 foot of wire? :)
I thought you have to use 6-3 wire that has Neutral, 2 Hots (Black & Red) and Ground wires?
Not for a welder outlet only 2 hots and ground. I just did this project only ran it 75 foot underground and consulted with my brother in law who is an electrician... the neutral wire is only needed if you are planning to split up circuit for 120v like running a sub panel or an Rv
The wire he used actually called 6-2 plus ground. This guys not even a homeowner level skilled electrician.
Dude i all the sudden related to with the little one, and realized, we live in the same world, im watching this video to get 220 for my welder and the ol' lady never lets me ge tthat kind of work done, lol
I hope your house don’t burn down but if it does your homeowners insurance will not pay for it. You need 6/3 for that breaker two hots one neutral and a ground bonded to the box
Incorrect. 6-2 is perfectly acceptable for this application. You may not use a neutral as a ground for this receptacle, so there would be no purpose of the neutral wire unless you marked it as a ground at both ends and used it as a ground rather than a neutral. This install was mostly correct other than the metal box needing to be grounded by the ground conductor itself.
Replying to your comment that you can have as many plugs you want on a 30 or 40 amp breaker. On a 20 amp breaker you can put 10 points on it meaning in one room each plug counts as 1 point and ceiling fans count as 2 points. So it’s safe to say 7 plugs and a ceiling fan in one room for one 20 amp breaker.
Is that what your boss told you? Your comment sounds nothing like a code comment.
@@KevinCoop1 this is how the state inspector in my area requires us to rope a residence bud
I think the only thing missing is that the metal receptacle needs to be grounded?
Also some 2020 standards require gfci
I know there’s something about romex through pvc as well but I’d have to look it up
My understanding is you never use romex in conduit because it builds up heat.
You are right about not running romex in conduit but I'm not sure a 12" piece of PVC constitutes running your circuit in conduit, though.
NEC is ok with romex in conduit as long as the run is DEEMED to NOT BE a wet location.
Why did you use a 50 Amp breaker? I understand the NEMA 6-50R which is rated as a 50 Amp Receptacle but did you not bother pulling out your manual for your Vulcan Welder? I don’t have that exact model Vulcan but do have another one of the dual voltage 110/220 Welders from Vulcan and it clearly states in the owners manual what the Max Amperage is for each Type or Process of Welding and at what Voltage so the Amps for 110/120 and then the Amps for 220/240. My Vulcan Tig and Stick is only like 25.8 Amps at 220/240 Volts so a 30 Amp Breaker running the NEMA 6-50R is more than sufficient and actually putting a heavier Amp breaker like a 50 Amp Breaker on it can easily cause the breaker to not trip when it should trip and then damaging your welder.
NEC says the breaker for welders can be sized 200% above load, so technically 50 is fine, but yeah I went with 30 just to be safe.
Circuit protection is just that, ...Circuit Protection. They are not appliance protection. They are there to keep you from burning up the wires in your walls, not to protect whatever you have plugged into the circuit.
His welder may not be the only appliance he wants to plug into that outlet. Just as you plug anything and everything 1/4A to 15A rated into your 110V wall outlets in your house, you can do the same with your 220V outlets up to the amp capability of the supplying circuit. As long as the supplying breaker / wires / receptacle combination are all sized to 50A, it is just fine no matter the appliance plugged into it, ...up to 50A, of course.
@@dpetrides Technically per 630.12 his 24.8A welder should not be on a 50A breaker, as that is over 200% of the primary current rating. However, that section is about dedicated welder circuits. If this is considered a general use receptacle, and if the conductors are rated as such rather than being smaller based on being a dedicated welder circuit, I'm not sure the code even applies. It is, for example, impossible for a person to know the ampacity of a breaker before plugging in a welder. If they see a 50A receptacle which is not marked as being rated to only 30A, how would they know? Is the welder user or the electrician suddenly in violation of code if a 24.8A welder is plugged into a 50A receptacle on a 50A breaker with appropriate wire? I don't think so. Unless the receptacle is wired and marked as a dedicated welder outlet, I think this is code compliant. I could be wrong. Not an electrician.
Outstanding job!👍 And fk all the haters that might want to hop on here trying to tell you how you should've done your wiring in your house!😂👍👍👍👍👍
You went up, across and all the way back down. Why didn't you just come out of the side of the box with a short piece of wire right into the side of the receptacle? Another thing, you need some red 1/2" heat shrink on both ends of that white wire because white means neutral and you don't want to White in there, someone will come along and think it's a neutral
Want a welder that's better than the OMNIPRO 220 check out ARC Captain they sell the best welders for a very nice price OMNIPRO over prices their stuff same for Titanium You can get a 50 amp plasma cutter for 250$ does the same as titanium but its cheaper but has better quality better duty cycle I been using it for 8 months almost constantly I haven't had a issue Also about issues you get a 2 year warranty with them Harbor freight gives you a 90 day warranty unless you pay more money to extend that for a year to 3 years which cost a lot more money And no I'm not a bot I just don't want people to get scammed because everything at that store that is a machine that welds is over priced and you only get a 90 day warranty
Do you suggest a specific TIG Welder. I’ve had great success out of the Vulcan mig but I’m open to better cheaper alternatives for the TIG. Won’t be getting one just yet but future plans make me want one.
@@JordanMoree I absolutely recommend PrimeWeld. The price is great, the performance is awesome, the customer service is amazing. I just got one for myself and I'm rewiring my garage for 240V to use it right now.