Quick and Easy DIY 240V Outlet Install | 50 Amp NEMA 14-50
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
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With the adoption of electric cars on the rise having a 50 Amp 240 Volt outlet in your garage is becoming more and more common. This type of project does not need to cost $1000 and if you have the know how you can even get it installed for under $100.
Supplies
Eaton CH 50 Amp Breaker: amzn.to/3zxKlyS
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Everything in this video was great, except for one thing: the outlet chosen. Yes, that is a NEMA 14-50 plug, but it's designed for electric dryers. Electric dryers are on for 30 minutes, maybe an hour and then it's off and might not be used again for the rest of the day. They're not designed for hours and hours of continuous charge and a lot of these cheap, $9 outlets have been catching on fire. Make sure you get one rated specifically for charging EVs. The ones I've seen have a slightly larger diameter, and therefore need a slightly bigger wall plate. They're also a tad thicker, so need a deeper box.
Tip from a pro. To confirm stud location, start from the middle of the box location and cut towards the stud. You will feel when you hit the stud. Then cut up and down next to the stud before making your remaining marks and cutting the rest of your hole.
... and try not to damage the vapor barrier.(if you do, just fix it)
When taking the entire power off the main breaker I'd recommend that you turn off any thermostats, and unplug computer /TV type appliances. Turn off breakers one by one then throw the main breaker. Reverse process after you have completed your install. Point being, don't surge/slam the power off and especially back on. I think it's just a good best practice.
Yes this is best practice when turning off and on main
The computer already has 2 surge protectors.
Thanks
The heavy-duty industrial grade NEMA 14-50 receptacles (Hubbell, Bryant) are constructed of fire-resistant Bakelite rather than injection-molded plastic, and their 4 contact springs are heavy-duty with heavy plating, specifically designed for thousands of insertion/removal cycles rather than a few dozen. They also feature specially plated clamp-style wiring connections with set screws which must be carefully tightened using a calibrated torque wrench. A side-by-side comparison is compelling, and there are a rapidly-growing number of photos of melted/scorched/burned NEMA 14-50 outlets posted on the Internet. Sadly, many of these dangerous receptacles were installed by licensed electricians.
Less-expensive, lower-quality NEMA 14-50 receptacles are unsafe for EV charging and should all come with a warning that they are not designed for and must not be used for EV charging applications. Given the risk, home improvement stores (Home Depot, Lowes, ACE Hardware, etc) should completely stop selling them, and online stores should be required to have detailed warnings. The national wiring codes should also be updated appropriately. No one should die or lose their home over this issue.
That said, a safer, more reliable option is to have an EVSE permanently wall-mounted with a dedicated, hard-wired connection rather than installing a NEMA 14-50 receptacle. And PLEASE hire a licensed, experienced electrician. Don't risk your home and loved ones to save a few bucks. Seriously.
Now that the Tesla/NACS connector is being adopted for EV charging in 120/240Vac North America, the Tesla (Gen 3) Wall Connector EVSE is an excellent value with a large installed base and a well-earned reputation for safety and reliability.
I’m sorry but the whole point of this video is to not hire an electrician. I’m not a licensed electrician but have been a builder for 30+ years. Went to college and learned electrical wiring. Nothing wrong with people doing their own electrical work with a little help from videos like this. Gvt overreach sucks.
Yes. The $10 outlets have 1/2 width connections in outlet. Takes $50 to buy the good outlet.
IMPORTANT--- If you're installing this for EV at home charging, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE, use a commercial grade NEMA 14-50r and use copper wires. My initial install (done by an electrician with aluminum wires) failed and the residential grade NEMA 14-50r melted. The constant high load draw of EVs when charging is significantly higher than people might think. Don't skimp on costs by using less than optimal parts! I was very lucky and it didn't cause a fire in my garage, but it could have been really bad. I had a different electrician repair the mistakes, and ended up just doing a hard wire install with my Grizzl-E EVSE. BTW, I tried contacting the original electrician, and the phone number has been disconnected...
It's most likely a failure caused by the electrician not torquing the wire lugs on the outlet to the proper specification using a torque screwdriver.
Or the electrician didn’t use NO-OX because of the aluminum wire
Aluminum was probably the problem. I’ve got a 5$ 15-50R that has been under full load for a year
There is a separate section in the National Electric Code.....625.
In this section, many seem to miss where it talks about maximum charge rate times 125% equals the required circuit size.
Many look at their charger and say they will just restrict the charge current in the charger. This is wrong. If your charger has a max charge of 40 amps, you need a 50 amp circuit and 50 amp wiring.
My advise to you because if your circuit failed, is to have a serious inspection on your panel. As an electrical guy, I know that houses are wired, the wire size from the utility to your house, for what is in in when it is built. There are calculation that allow you to reduce your wire size based on what is in there when built. A level 2 car charger is like adding a second stove to run at max power use for 8 hours. These utility to house (service) wires may have been overloaded also. There is a section in the NEC, 220 for this. If you do not do these calculations often, it might be hard to follow all the reductions allowed.
Good luck sir.
Socket failures usually happen around 2 years. High load continuous use requires annual torquing of connections which no one does. Industrial sockets hold torque better. I wonder if the problems with cheap sockets are the pins/blades inside or the terminals getting loose over time. We Need people with burnt sockets to report why they failed but can be hard if it is melted. Either case I got the industrial for my housr
I did it myself (Owner Builder) as described in this video. It was not difficult at all. My total cost was around $100.00 Now I can charge my Model 3 Tesla at home with the Tesla mobile charger which gives me 32 amps. Great Video and well worth the upgrade.
how many miles of range per hour does that translate to?
@@diodiodio222 40
That sounds like a standard 50 ampere 2 pole breaker without GFCI protection and one of the 14-50 outlets standard at Home depot or Lowes. You will probably be fine without the GFCI protection, but at least put in a commercial 50 ampere outlet for safety, unlike the one used in this video. 💙 T.E.N.
Good demo on cutting the drywall with just the tip of the saw. Some studs have wires stapled to them, and you don't want to hit those with a saw. In the vid, clearly there was no existing branch going down from the electric panel, but other homes may be different. Thanks for the video. I feel confident now to install my own.
Exactly what I did, but used a Hubble 14-50 outlet. I just back my car in and plug right in. The Tesla mobile connector only does 32A max, and the same for my RWD Model 3.
Installed mine 4 years ago, 30 minutes and been issue free ever since
I’m fascinated at how 6/3 wire seems so easy to manipulate in this video!
Wasn't too bad on this one but 6/3 can definitely fight you.
lol
Current NEC requires the outlet to be GFCI protected. Just the proper breaker for this project is $105-145.
I've recently watched a video on Sandy Munro's channel about the risks involved with these installs. People are assuming that the cheap outlets from the big box stores, or online can do the job just fine. The problem is that they worked just fine for what people used them for before, like they're dryers, where the current is running through it for less than an hour or so, every few days. But in an EV charging application, the receptacles are melting and becoming serious fire hazards. If you are wanting to get this done for your EV charging needs, I highly recommend watching that video to learn what type of outlet to purchase, or do plenty of research. Even professionals don't always know what is best in this situation, because it's still relatively new technology. Hope this helps save some homes.
I do the horizontal cuts first to accurately find the stud, then mark and cut the rest.
Great video! I would add that you correctly left some conduit cover inside each box when exposing the wires. I would use a multimeter to check that the bus bars are really "off" after tripping the main. I also use a level when cutting the hole for the new box. Thank you so much !
Great video. The tip about clamping the connector to the wire first and then snaking it was really helpful to me!
As some people have already mentioned, you should buy the commercial grade receptacle. The other thing you should upgrade is the box - getting a 3 1/2 inch deep box will make your life MUCH easier. And those are only 3-4 bucks more (Hubell Raco 696 is one example).
Lastly, nobody does this, but I believe code now requires you to use a GFCI breaker for a 240v outlet in a garage - that will run you an extra $100.
You took the words out of my mouth. If that is a garage yes on GFCI and anytime you add wire in Virginia you need a permit.
@@alangivens7983
It depends on the state you live in. My state still runs on 2017 Electric code rules, and that doesn't require a GFCI breaker. For what it's worth, I've read of many stories of people using GFCI breakers and having them constantly trip. Why? I'm not sure. But it seems like many EVs don't like them, for whatever reason.
@@dontbanmebrodontbanme5403 One of the issues with GFCI breakers is most EVSEs also have GFCI built into them as well.
How about the Hubbell 683? It's 4" and that would go with the industrial grade Hubbell 50A 250v receptacle.
@@my_RS4 That seems reasonable. Never actually used that box. Just make sure it's not a masonry box.
Many of us really appreciate people like you making videos. It helped me get mine done. I wondered why you came in the side of the box, instead of the top? Easier to handle the wire? Thanks again for making these videos.
The updated outlet now listed under supplies is INDUSTRIAL GRADE. This is absolutely required for the continuous operation when charging a car. The standard outlet will heat up, melt and could cause loss of function/fire. The Legrand 3894CC6 shown being installed in the video is a serious failure. The new link industrial rated Leviton 279-50 is $10. A Bryant made by Hubbel is about. $30 and a Hubbell is around $60.
Eaton make an industrial grade as well.
Cool video but 2020 came with some changes for 240.
1. 210.8 (A) - requires GFCI protection to include the 240 volt receptacles for ranges that are within 6' from the edge of sinks and for 240 volt receptacles located in laundry rooms for the dryers. 2. 210.8(A)(5) - requires all receptacles in a basement (either finished or unfinished) to be GFCI protected.
Now, that 20$ breaker is around 115$. I’ll admit though, we charge 500-1000 depending on the run, so this is useful for homeowners :)
Code doesn’t matter for self-install… until you sell and need the place inspected. Even then, it’s literally no different than having one installed by a professional before the code changed. Also, many places have yet to adopt the new code and are still inspecting and enforcing the old code (NEC 2017?). Code is important for licensed professionals and permit work but it isn’t strictly required for DIY. Another way around the GFCI breaker requirement is to install an EVSE with a direct-wire option. This saves you even more since you don’t need to buy the receptacle. You can also install a 48A unit, which might be smart even if your current vehicle won’t charge that fast since there is more reason to future-proof a direct-wire install.
@@emmettturner9452 ... the problem with a 48 amp charger is you can't draw that much continuously (over 3 hours) on a 50 amp outlet. It will be considered a branch circuit and the 80% rule will apply, holding you to 40 amps. If you hardwire, then you can use parts for a 60 amp branch circuit, where 80% is 42 amps. Now the catch 22... none of the wall mounted chargers come with a 60 amp plug so now you will have to hardwire.
@@rupe53 Yep. That’s why hard-wire installs enable you to have a 42-48A EVSE. :)
There are a number of 48A EVSEs with both plug and hardwire “dual” install options but you are supposed to use a selector that limits it to 40A or less when using the the various plug options. I don’t think there’s any way to stop an end user from installing a NEMA 60A welder plug to the same terminals but, well, the instructions still say the max settings are for hardwire installs only.
@@emmettturner9452 The 2017 code requires that all garage outlets rated 150 Volts to ground (as in this example) require GFCI protection. Ref code 210.8(B)(8)
@@timothyrients1685 this receptacle does not exceed 150v to ground.
The NEC currently calls for GFCIs for garage installations. I know some local codes may not. For EV charging, a commercial 14-50 is really a must. They are engineered for the loads an EV can generate. The cheap construction grade 14-50s have low insertion cycles and could present fire hazard with high current x time that an EV could require.
Im seeing sources all over saying that a GFCI is indeed code but you can't run most level 2 chargers off GFCI because it includes GFCI built in..?
@@J_Madison I have heard reports like those. One suggested that the method that the mobile connector uses to determine the type of power connection is perceived as leakage to some GFCIs. I don't know it is true. The GFCI code change was in 2020. Tesla stopped including the 14-50 cable and essentially recommended the Wall Connector which is hard wired and no GFCI is required. It may be coincidental but I doubt it.
It is equally possible that Tesla became aware of the cheap 14-50 installations and decided it was too much of a liability. If I needed 220v charging, I would go with a Wall Connector. It has the best performance and is a one time cost. People spend thousands on PPF and trick wheels then want to go cheap on charging.
@@gbinman Thanks for the info. I plan on installing a hardwired version this week just for the reason youve listed.
I have plenty experience doing 220v installs for wood shop equipment and try to keep everything to up to code.
Very useful video! Went with the much beefier 14-50 receptacle. Car is currently charging now. Thanks for making such a well-focused video. It covered all the useful issues, so I was able to get it right the first time without making any mistakes.
I think this is critical to point out. Don't use the cheap $9 receptacles you'll find at Home Depot. While it is indeed a NEMA 14-50 plug and is technically up to code, they're designed for electric dryers. They're not designed for 5-10 hours of charging and a lot of them have started fires. Get the ones especially built for EV charging. They're going to cost in the neighborhood of $50 (if you're lucky to find them at that price) to $150. They used to be easy to find at $50, but now that everyone is realizing the beefier ones are the ones needed, the price has been going up and up and up.
@@dontbanmebrodontbanme5403 Any specific brand you suggest??
For Tesla, if your not a contractor. They will not honor warranty. They also want a copy of permit. Plus pass indpection
Please make sure your receptacle is EV graded. Don't burn down your house with a cheap receptacle.
Man, what you just provided was awesome!!! Providing those of us who are techies, proffesionals or novices with this kind of information. Thank You!
Great install! I have one suggestion. I would highly recommend paying the extra money for the commercial grade 14-50 receptacle. I realize they start in the $50+ range, but this is not the area I would want to save money on if it were my house. Again, nice easy to understand demonstration and clean install. 👍
Not a bad idea and thanks for the feedback.
@@retass1979 good stuff, thanks for the additional details Jason 👍
And this is an application where you are going to be constantly plugging and unplugging the cord, not like other uses where the device usually remains plugged in, like dryers, stoves and welders. My standard grade receptacles are wearing out and need to be replaced.
@@KameraShy if this is for an EV charging station, then the charger would be left plugged in the wall outlet . It will be the cord from the charger to the EV that will be getting unplugged constantly.
Definitely a must if you're plugging in and unplugging using the mobile charger, not as important if you buy a wall charger that stays plugged in.
Best video on this subject matter that I’ve seen on the Internet. Excellent job.
I have about a 30 foot run. The 6/3 Romex is well over $200 alone... Add another $200 for a rated 50amp breaker, EMT and hardware.
One plus to installing this outlet is using it for other applications. When my Model Y is not charging I can use the outlet for my TIG welder or my lathe.
I could make one suggestion, when cutting your hole for your box , your first cut should be horizontal for the length of th box. This would insure there are no studs in the way. In the case of this video you would start in the center and cut toward the stud to find the edge. Use that as a point to re lay out your box if needed.
When watching this it makes it even harder to pay $600 for an install 🤦♂️ I’ll make sure they’re using the right equipment. Want the industrial nema plug and copper wire. Can’t skimp! Nice video.
Raise hand if your electrical panel is on completely opposite side of your house from your garage
What's that? Other side of the property you say? I have a 5 stall detached garage at the very back of my property, it used to be a carriage house and stables in the late 1800's. I'd have to dig a trench to run 240v to it.
🖐️🥲
Raise your hand if you don’t have a garage.
@@Sashazur✋🏻🤷♂️
This is my parents problem with putting in L2 charging for their ID.4, no room in the garage subpanel and the main box is on the non garage side of the house. They decided to live with L1 rather than pay $2000 to run another subpanel to support L2.
That actually made the best sense of all the videos I've watched on doing this, and let me tell you, I've watched more than a few. But this was very well explained. Thanks for the video
Thanks, this video is very helpful, I've just setup an 240 outlet follow it. Just want to add: before turn to test voltage, you should test connections/crossconnection to ensure it setup as expected. Also be aware with your main board, need to buy those match its branch
Installed mine and my neighbor this week using everything in this video, thanks!
You bet!
Caution: Watch the video from Sandy Monroe about these. Install is excellent. Thanks for the great info. NEMA 14-50 concerns for charging EV's.
I did a hardwired Tesla Wall Connector and a NEMA 6-50R for a GE Wattstation J-1772 for about $300 all-in, but that included about a 50ft run on the Tesla and a 30ft run on the 6-50R.
FYI- This parts used in this install don’t meet NEC box fill requirements. A 4” box is 30.3 and the half inch mud ring adds 4.5. Because the outlet is wider than a standard gang, code counts it as double. You need 40 inches per code.
That's not true
Thank you, Adam Wainwright
Working for Amoco in a gas plant in the electrical gang we always checked with a meter to issuer the breaker was open and not energized! I have seen old breaker still hot even when the handle is switched!
Under the panel. If want to install the 50A receptacle a distance from the panel. 6/3 MC cable is $5.85 per foot on 12/5/22 plastic cable (romex) is over $1 more expensive. The receptacle alone is $40 at an electrical supply house.
Thank you. Had a similar project today and this made it totally possible.
This guy should have mentioned that the receptacle needs to be "EV Grade" to avoid fires.
I paid an electrician to do mine for $90 about 8 years ago. About the same spot and distance as yours.
Couple things. I am a journeyman electrician I bring that up because it's relevant.
1. I would not use a residential grade receptacle for this they won't hold up to the constant plugging and unplugging 9f a vehicle charger. Those are built for a range or dryer that gets plugged in and doesn't get touched for years.
2. All garage receptacles must be GCFI protected. Those 50 amp GFCI breakers are like $90 dollars by themselves. The NEC makes no exception that I'm aware of for car chargers with built in GFCI protection. Even if they did you don't know what will be plugged into that receptacle other than a car charger. Like perhaps a welding machine.
3. Good work using the torque screwdriver.
With regards to your number 2., yes the 2020 NEC code updated 210.8A, but it would depend on if his state has adopted the 2020 NEC code. I believe only 19 states have thus far.
@@JimYeats fair point but I still see no good reason not to do it. You don't run into problems by making things safer. Sure it adds about $60 bucks to the cost but small price to pay to potentially save a life.
@@johnh8546 ... it's been pointed out to me that many chargers have GFCI protection built in so a hardwire installation would be an option, especially since having two GFCIs on the same circuit may lead to false tripping.
@@rupe53 true but you can't guarantee a car charger will be all that ever goes into the receptacle. Residential welding machines can be plugged into a Nema 14-50 so it's possible all sorts of non GFI protected devices could be plugged into that receptacle.
@@johnh8546 ... except that I said "hardwire" to avoid that issue. If there's no plug, the problem is solved by the GFCI within the device. (if it has one) You'd need to read the owner's manual to see what you have.
Need a bit more discussion on wire size and number of conductors. Thanks for informative video.
Code states an outlet in the garage needs GFCI protection if it is less than 250 Volts, and each leg is less than 150v to ground.
Thanks, Joe Flacco.
😂
LMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I would definitely spring for either an industrial grade outlet or hardwire a charger. Besides being plugged in all the time dryers and stoves are usually only on briefly and rarely are at full power. EV charging can draw large amounts of current for many hours at a time which will cause more heat in the outlet than is typical for other uses. This can cause the metal to expand and the joint to loosen, which will generate even more heat and could become a fire hazard. Not worth the risk to save $50 or so on a cheap residential outlet.
Amazon sells the Hubbell Nema 14-50 currently for $111. Hubbell also makes the Bryant brand (Bryant 9450F) that is sold at Grainger for $46. It is the same commercial grade receptacle.
This is by far best case scenario this will cost most people who hire an electrician $1000 or more
$1k is a good ballpark to expect, but can probably get it a little cheaper depending on how far the outlet is from the box. I hired an electrician to install one last week. I bought the outlet and GFCI breaker myself. Panel was on the side of a detached 2 car garage so had to run wire up and over one garage door to the wall between the two doors. I had him use aluminum wire so it would be future proofed if I ever decide to upgrade to a hardwired EVSE for 60A or 80A use. I know the wire increased the total cost. My total bill was $857. I think I paid around $110 or $120 total for the breaker and outlet, so all total just under $1k. Would have been significantly cheaper if I put it right next to the box.
Prices will definitely vary based on the layout of your house but to say you can do it for $66 is giving bad info to DIYers. I look at my house and it would involve concrete cutting and drywall repair which hired out could exceed $2000.
If you are unscrewing the cover why wouldnt you turn off the main Breaker first? If your screwdriver slips etc you could hit hot.
Most important check you missed was checking the continuity of the ground wire.
Unless you test for continuity between any exposed metal part on the faceplate of the outlet & also the ground pin in the outlet back to the breaker box you have no way of knowing if you are protected, you also will know from this test if you have achieved a low resistance path back to ground ensuring the breaker will trip in the event of a fault.
I would have also checked the resistance of both line and the neutral conductors from the outlet back to the breaker box to make sure their connections are also of a low resistance so I know all the connections are good.
All of these are dead tests.
Insulated boots and gloves for zero voltage testing as well. Some kind of arc face shield is also recommended.
For the viewers, please remember that there is a section in the NEC, 625, just for car chargers.
Your charger's maximum draw, no some reduced charge rate, must be used when multiplying by 125% to get your circuit rating......a 40 amp max power use for a 50 amp circuit/breaker. You cannot run a 30 amp circuit and restrict your 40 amp charger down.
Also, if receptacle for car charging, gfci required since some time before 2017.
Please, research and do it best.
Check your local authority. Mine's on the 2008 NEMA codes.
@@BenKlassen1 holy crap
After watched the whole video, I think I will still hire a pro, too many places where I can screw up and costs me way more than the saving, nice work thou! 😂
I keep going back and forth if I should try it myself. All i want to do is replace a nema 10-50 with a nema 14-50 so I already have the 60 amp breaker in the panel. The EVSE (car charger) I bought for my 2017 Chevy Volt is displaying a warning light for no ground (but it is still charging). It is my understanding that newer EVs will not charge if there is no ground.
In any case, I am concerned about the danger but I also know if I do this swap successfully, it will give me confidence to install a second outlet for an additional EV if my wife wants one. I was equally nervous the first time I switched out some interior 120w nema 5-15 outlets and light switches but now I do it all of the time.
Very few comments on amperage so i will add: due to constant draw, some areas require derating to 40 amps at the breaker. This is plenty to fill any EV overnight.
Two things, a ground wire to the box is a nice to have in this case since the outlet tabs screwed to the box are approved as grounding. Nothing wrong with an extra wire and grounding screw, and in reality it is an extra safety piece. 2nd thing is that make sure to stay to the side and look away when turning the breaker specially for the first time. Short circuits can cause arcing it can royally suck if you get hit in the face. I had some faulty 6 gauge wire and after wiring my EV charger, it short circuited outside of the box, but it caused an arc the 1st time I turned it on and I knew about it. One of the hot wires had bad jacket and it came into contact with the ground wire. It melted the wires instantly at the connection point with 0 load. Crazy stuff!
It's actually code when using a metal box to connect the ground to the box.
@@dracula3811 it is code to ground the box for sure and the outlet tabs alone can be a grounding method. By grounding the outlet, the tabs are also grounded. Bonding the tabs to the box creates the grounding and it is similar to the grounding screw on the box itself. Again, it is good to do both. In many old homes, the conduit itself is the grounding path and there is no ground wire to connect to. The outlet tabs themselves establish the grounding when bonded to the box.
I like using the bigger Wagos for older fabric sheathed wires. They can just fit into the holes.
I own two Tesla vehicles and a pair of chargers. Initially, I opted for the affordable $9 plugs, but due to overheating issues, I switched to the more durable 14-50 Hubbell plugs. After replacing both of the cheaper ones, I've learned a valuable lesson that I'd like to pass on.
Yep, I agree the Hubbell 14-50 is the way to go 👍. Thanks for the feedback!
I always check my circuit twice one energized to check for short to ground/neutral/ hot(s) then energize it and check my voltages hot-hot/ ground-hot-hot/ neutral-hot-hot depending if the panel is grounds are separate from neutral make sure i'm not getting a voltage across ground then.
My problem is my breaker box is in my basement.. On the opposite side of the house. Im gonna need a lot of wire
Commenting on the actual video and it’s usefulness based on how well it was structured and information provided, 10/10. Just my altar ego when he gets in his moods.
Awesome video, man! The install was a breeze and I told my wife that I had to pay $600 for this. She reimbursed me 50% 😁
Shortcut - if you have a gas stove, use that 50a breaker. Remove the wiring to the stove and use that for 6# to the charger receptacle. But could be an issue when you sell the house.
That's exactly what I did. I converted from an electric range to gas. All that was on the 50amp line was the ignitor circuit. So I switched that to a 15amp branch circuit to free up the 50amp breaker. We're planning on staying in this house forever, so if the next owner wants an electric range, they'll have to give up the EV charger circuit... or upgrade the panel, because it's full.
Ayo kudos to you i've never done any home work ever, have no knowledge in this kinda stuff and i was able to pull this off 💀
wow~ I am so happy that you show the technique to tighten those cable stopper/holder. I was confused how to do this.. you showed everything very clearly in this video. Big THANKS@!!!!!!
I was going to do this until I realized I don’t have anymore space. Called an electrician and told me that I need to upgrade my box since I already got all my breakers being used. I’m in CA. He said you need to call pg@e to turn off power and install a new larger electric panel box. Something that was supposed to be under $100 is now going to turn into a $2000-3000 job . And was told I need to get a city permit.
Excellent video. Thank you! Strangely enough, I just bought a torque screwdriver to use while replacing the contactor in my AC unit.
Great tip on how to get the cable clamps into blind holes!
New video idea....Like you did for 120V outlets, you should do a comparison of 14-50 receptacle brands.
I spent $200 myself on a 60 amp breaker and 72 total feet of 6AWG copper wire to wire my Tesla Charger. That includes wire conduit/electrical PVC to run along the garage wall to where I wanted the charger.
Hi,
I think there is an often overlooked issue with these installations - NM wire is limited to the 60C ampacity chart in the USA, and EVSE charging is required by definition to be overrated by 125%, in the same way continous loads are.
6 guage NM is good for 55, or up to 44 amps when derated for continous load (0.8, the inverse of 1.25)
Many EVSE chargers are 48 amps. These installations with a 14-50 on 6 guage NM are therefore noncompliant and NM based installations should be load limited to 44 amps to be 100% compliant - Running it in conduit or smurf tube and using THWN would allow you to use the 75C column, which would make it permissible. It's a small issue, but technically not code compliant when used with common charger loads. Really the USA needs to stop using the 60C rule for NM in all circumstances - it's overly broad, but as it stands it's noncompliant.
Tesla and Porsche recommend industrial l grade receptacle. I noticed the torque on the residential grade used in the video was 20 inch pounds. Hubbell and Bryant require 75 inch pounds. 75 inch pounds flattens individual stands of wire against the connector, providing more contact surface area. 20 inch pounds does not flatten individual strands, and provides less surface area contact. Spent $50-100 more for an industrial grade 14-50. I know of two, Hubbell HBL9450A, or Bryant 9450FR. Nothing else torques to 75 inch pounds.
You answered my previous question very correctly thank you very much I have another question I just installed the unit and I cannot get it to connect to Wi-Fi do you have any suggestions my Bluetooth is on I’m standing next to the unit and I’m getting nothing thank you hope you can help out
Really appreciate the video. Nice screwdriver and well worth the cost. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
After working the trade for over 30 years and becoming an Inspector, NEVER use Aluminum. (Just my opinion) And use industrial grade outlet for the cord you will use. As an afterthought, get the Vehicle sales folk to provide you with a cord long enough to reach the outlet that you will install, no junction boxes. Use Copper wire, and don't undersize it. Use wire good for 40 amps, #8. If you are not doubly sure, then hire a Licenced Electrician and make sure he is insured. Get his contractors number. Don't let your smart neighbor or friend near it. Proficiency and Insurance are key here.
I talked to Tesla and their professional installation support said my previously installed 6 gauge aluminum line that was used for a electric stove will work fine with the mobile 220V charging cable since it will only use a maximum of 35 amps. What do you think Ellen?
Very useful and really appreciate associating costs for the viewer.
Next time, use FClips, and easy tight in for that square box. Either way works perfect like you did. flat with drywall and flat ring for the receptacle, don’t need the rise one.
In Europe, we have 16A at 230V at every socket, and some homes have 3 phases too. That is 11kW over just 16A and very thin wires.
You need to check the size of the panel. Ensure the main breaker has have enough rating.
Btw, 240v 20/30 amps is more efficient (lower lost of energy/ lower cost) then 50amps when charging ev.
So if I have a Tesla I need the 50amps correct?
Several things being discussed here. I am a licensed electrician and install EVSEs. The past couple years has given us the history to understand that the cheaper, $15 outlets are not built for the continuous load of EV charging. Torquing and alum wire are issues but the outlet itself is an issue. Companies like Qmerit are requiring their installers to use commercial grade outlets. Concerning wire, most installation manuals now state that 90 degree copper is required. Best bet is a hardwired install.
If you Google around you will find the Tesla Engineer 's Whitepaper explaining why you need an upgraded outlet from Hubbell that costs around $99 that is fiberglass and designed to withstand constant pull of high power from the circuit. These cheap outlets are not made to withstand hours of charging. It is okay if you are rapid charging for a half hour but if you are charging for a couple of hours every day, you need that beefier outlet, and the deeper box to hold it. Even my electricians were surprised to learn about this.
I’m definitely having this done, and also adding a 30 amp, 110v RV receptacle to my barn.
I'm not an electrician so take my comment as such.
to pass an inspection, you need to use 2x #8 or #10 pan head or washer head screws to mount that box. they should be 3/4" or 1" in length.
supposedly some inspectors like square drive heads.
No inspector will ever see it.
In my current business, all I do is install EV chargers. A lot of discussion about wire type and size. In my AHJ, inspectors are wanting to look at the installation manual and what that says, rules. Many are stating the breaker size but also 90 degree rated copper wire. I only use the commercial grade outlets, if I cannot talk the customer into hardwire but have yet to find an exterior enclosure that they will fit into.
100422/0401h PST 🇺🇸 Thank you as always. Very well explained and performed the installation.
For 11.5kW charging you need a 60 amp breaker and maybe 4 gauge wire if you had a long run. This setup on the video would be good up to 9.6kW charging. The reason is that you don't want to run the breaker at more than 80% of max load of extended periods of time, like when charging an ev
Thanks for the feedback, the Tesla Gen 2 and 3 wall charger you need to set the max amperage to 80% (as you called out). Sounds like this is a common problem with installs by DIYers and Pros. I will be setting mine to 40 Amps or level 8 on the rotary dial for the Tesla charger.
True, that’s code
@@EverydayHomeRepairs A note on this though, you still need the 60 Amp breaker to meet code IF you were to hardware the charger, because it can't depend on an end user just deciding to set his equipment to a setting that won't exceed the maximum rating for the breaker to 40 Amps. Even though you probably can't draw more than that from your car. Also it is future proofing, my own car draws 48Amps and 80% would require then the 60 Amp breaker. And I imagine in just a couple of years the cars might require 100 Amps. That said I only trickle charge my car every night on 120v outlet and it hasn't raised my utility bill nor slowed down my ability to get around since I don't go through a full tank every day. Thanks for all your great videos.
@@westcoastjj3658 good info. I am doing a 40' run from the panel to the outlet and want to be set up for a 11.5KW charger. So I am going with the 60 amp breaker and 4 gage wire. However, now what do I use for my outlet? Can I still use a nema 14-50R, or do I need to go with the nema 14-60R? If I go with the 14-60R, then I will need an adapter between the outlet and the charger plug, correct? Or is hardwire the only possible way to do an 11.5KW charger?
Great video with plenty of details as usual. My panel is completely full. No free slot for the new breaker. What are my options?
Bummer, not an easy solution. Usually in these scenarios you might be looking at a subpanel to expand out your breaker capacity. Do you have a 200 Amp service?
My box is maxed out so I’m doing a separate installation in the garage and then connect to the utility form there. Less cost.. no trenching and less parts needed.
@01:50 Remove Panel
@03:26 Cut drywall, use level
@04:30 Wire/Connector at panel
@05:29 Wire/Connector at box
@06:05 6" wires for code, and GND pigtail
@06:35 Wago 613 3-wire
@08:30 NEMA plug install (20 in/lbs)
@09:32 Panel wire connections
@10:19 Breaker install (40 in/lbs)
@10:43 Voltmeter
Great video! Isn't there something like high usage NEMA 14-50 outlet which can be re-plugged more than a few dozens of time?
Should it be NEMA 14-50 instead in the title?
Good catch! Thx!
What did it say?
@@emmettturner9452 15-40
@@jdp2 Thanks. Yeah, I installed a 14-30 for my 16A AmazingE ClipperCreek Gen2 but I don’t think there is a 15-40. :)
My panels are in the basement so it was a good deal more to pull it to the garage. Either way, it’s a one time charge and the house should be set for a long time. I only wish it was feasible to run two so both our cars could charge at 45 amps.
Run 1 larger cable to a subpanel in the Garage, probably should be considering a 120 amp sub panel. Assumes you have a 200 amp main panel. Or alternatively if you have a smaller size main panel see about a splitter meter base and have each on their own panel. That main run size will likely be in aluminum so make sure to use an anti oxidizing compound as required by code.
Hello, what did you end up doing? I am in the same situation right now. 😬
I believe you need the Industrial Grade Name 1450 for EV use, which costs about $80.
Hi, please update your video to not include the Leviton. the connection is weak and people overtime tend to unplug them a lot. causing shorts on the outlet. They're better ones now.
Thank You for All that you are doing for our Planet Earth.... Peace.. Shalom.. Salam.. Namaste.. 🙏🏻 😊 🌈 ✌ ☮ ❤
Excellent and clear
that torque screwdriver looks and sounds like what Wheeler sells for mounting scopes and scope rings
Awesome video. Thanks for this information.
Wish it is that easy for m. Breaker panel in the basement, detached garage is 30 feet away 😢
same :(
Unfortunately my breaker is on the opposite side of my house😭 guess I’m better off installing it by the breaker and buying a $200 extension cable. What do you think?
Amazing video, im going to be doing this very very soon haha, i was just checking out my electric panel a couple hours ago haha, thank you!! Awsome video
That is great since lots of people are purchasing electric cars nowadays. I couldn’t believe the cost on the whole project and the way you demonstrated the project. Thank you for sharing
You say that the WAGO can handle 10 gauge wire, but the wire you are installing is 6 gauge, and the smaller number means that the 6 gauge is bigger than the highest rating for the WAGO, not sure if I'm missing something here, but it seems that the WAGO is under rated for this project by two gauges.