This video is very disappointing from a safety perspective. The gentleman is implying that "pros" do not need to turn the power off before working in the panel. If you are a DIYer considering taking on a project of this type, understand that the real professionals actually do turn the power off. And we do not stick conductive tools into hot panels, nor conductive fishtapes. We do not close the breakers of new, untested circuits with the panel cover off either. Turn the power off before removing the panel cover. Then test the panel bus with a volt meter to ensure the panel is de-energized. In this case, as he correctly pointed out, the incoming bus is still energized even with the main off. To mitigate this hazard it might be necessary to have the utility company briefly pull the meter to allow you to work safely. Complete the work, close the covers, THEN energize the panel and finally the circuit in question. In today's world, the notion of "let's be careful" is over. It is not merely a matter of avoiding getting a shock, which in itself can easily be lethal. Depending on a number of variables that are only controlled by the utility, it is possible to have an explosion and fireball which could severely burn and permanently disfigure someone standing in front of an energized, unprotected panel, especially dressed in only a short sleeve t-shirt as this person is doing.
Service disconnect not mentioned until the end? Not even eye protection on a live circuit with his face a foot from the open panel? Not testing the conductors before honking on the receptacle after pulling? Right at about 39 minutes this guy really disappoints. I wonder if his feet were bare on the concrete floor. And this video is intended for DIY?
@@noahholt482 the sarcasm is not a good look. The requirements of being an electrical worker are more demanding than they were 20 years ago. NFPA 70E has forever changed the way we work. For the better. We know better now. How to reduce and control risks, with a much better chance of going home safely to our families each day. The old days of being the macho cowboy working hot once was a sign of a good electrician. Now it’s a sign of a fool.
Jesus Christ. And yes, pros understand the cost of killing power to circuits they aren't working on. In a residence, it's not critical. Imagine this was in a shop and he had to run power to a new cash register: killing power to the entire building, or half the building: while safe, NOT PRACTICAL.
Especially for DIY’ers - if the appliance end is already completed and you are wiring into panel, ALWAYS check for continuity (short) between the cables before you land them in the panel. Once landed, it’s not easy to check. If you get continuity between any pair of wires, there is a short and you must not land any wires.
Enjoyed this well presented video. As a master electrician in Michigan for 40 years I do have a couple of comments. First I would have used a 4 square box on the wall above panel, you would have eliminated a lot of stress. Two, on the outlet I think the sharp corners of the flush use plate may be just waiting for someone to cut themselves, a raised cover would have been the correct one. Also when working with a metal fish tape in a panel is always dangerous. A no conducive fish rod would have been my first choice, if not available I would have stuffed a cardboard guard inside the panel. Safety first !
My father was a master electrician here in Michigan as well (IBEW 692.) There were a few tense moments in this video until I remembered that if this guy would have made contact he probably wouldn’t have been “available” to finish this project 😁
You can’t feed a 50A continuous load with a 50A circuit breaker. Most circuit breakers, including the Square D QO breakers shown in this video, are only rated for 80% duty. This means that even though the 50A circuit breaker will supply 50A, it is not meant for supplying that much current for 3 hours or more. This setup would, however, be sufficient for supplying 40A continuously since 50A breaker x 0.8 = 40A. I’m sure this is what you meant.
The reason why he had so much trouble pulling is that the EMT he used (3/4 inch) was undersized for the Romex he used (6-3 w/gnd.) 2020 NEC Chapter 9, Table 1 and Chapter 9, Item 9 requires 53% maximum fill for cable in conduit or tubing, which would be exceeded in his situation. So 1 inch EMT, or individual THHN's where 40% fill can be used.
Technically it should have been single conductors through the conduit with a box above the panel. Then from the box romex should've been ran through the wall and joints made in the box between the romex and THHN wires. BUT I hate making joints in a new circuit so I would've done it the same way. Id rather have romex in conduit than have joints in a brand new circuit with extra potential to fail in the future as long as its interior conduit. Definitely would've had that panel cover on with the fishtape flopping all around.
It was great video. There are some recommendations: - Using glows and safety glasses are always better, especially when you work in a live panel. As seen in viodeo, even you as a professional can cut your hand. I understand you are a professional but similarly you could get shock. -You forgot to use plastic conduit bushings at the termination locations. -it is better to mark the high of box and cut your conduit accordingly. It can give a better result for box the high, and reduce risk of miscalculations. -Better to kill the power before start, since your fish teyp is not the plastic one, you could make a short-circuit. Thank you for the video and fishing tips.
The one comment I have is regarding your grounding path for the conduit. You go into great detail about ensuring your connections are secure, all locknuts and set screws tight. However, I didn’t see a grounding pigtail from the receptacle to the metal box. The other end of your run ends at the wall with no conducive path down to the panel. I know it’s not practical to run conduit through the wall to the panel, but without a grounding pigtail on the other end, how would any fault current make it back to the panel to trip the breaker should the conduit become energized? Did I miss something?
No. Each of the components of the outlet are electrically isolated from each other. For the ground of the outlet to be connected to the metal box/conduit there would need to be a grounding pigtail to connect them.
@@timcaron9049 theoretically yes. But without the wiring device in place with the covers on, the pipe is not bonded. And while a grounding pigtail to a wiring device is not required when the metal box is bonded, I don't think the reverse is true from a Code perspective.
I suspect the metal mounting tabs on the outlet are bonded to the ground terminal, which would bond the box. However, the other end of the conduit isn't bonded. I'm not an electrician, but I heard that both ends of the conduit should be bonded.
Too many things to comment on. Not what I would consider a pro job. Retired master electrician. Never worked in a place that would allow a three or four inch chase nipple in the top of the panel and allow all the circuits to run through it. Amazing. Also, if you're going to work on a live panel (And I recommend a DIYer never do such a thing), take a piece of cardboard and tape it over the panel on three sides allowing just enough room to push the top of the cardboard into the panel so that you can insert your fish tape through the top knockout. This should keep you from contacting any live circuits when that fish tape accidentally flops around. Nowadays, they actually have fiberglass fish tapes which would be a lot safer for this job. I also spent 20 years as a paramedic and took countless DIYers to the ER for attempting jobs like this on live panels. JMO.
i don't think this guy knows enough about this to be posting videos. i'm not an electrician, but even i know this wasn't done right. of course i been at it a while and i've done a lot of research on this. even if i was just running 110 i wouldn't have done it this way.
This is pure Mickey Mouse business. You lose me at 2:41: Anyone who has been around live gear knows you limit the gesturing, less finger pointing, use a plastic pen, etc. Glaring safety issues, poor planning, improper material selection, and refusal to deviate/learn once you encountered obvious issues. You also violated the minimum bending radius of the NM cable when shoehorning it into the conduit body, it's usually something like 5x the cable diameter. An often overlooked point on conductors is that the 6AWG in NM cable is 7-strand, whereas typical 6 AWG THHN/THWN is 19-strand. Not all wire is created equal, which is partly to blame for how tough of a pull that was for you. You know they make industrial raised covers right? Much cleaner than a plaster ring/faceplate, your first hint that was the wrong part is the lack of plaster/wallboard! I'm not sure why you'd be proud of this representation of the work, and I'd be worried that others following your lead will get hurt in the process.
Conduit body should have been a J box instead and THHN pulled to outlet location, industrial cover and please connect ground to the deep 1900 box......
@@macbigmac5926 I would have preferred to run flex in the wall to LB or J box and run one length of THHN all the way in the conduit. Thereby no splice in the run of wire. Not a good practice splicing #6 on a continuous use load.
If he wants this to be a DIY, I'm assuming the person going to attempt this is lacking electrical knowledge. Maybe he should warn them about the busbar or lugs before popping off the cover.
I was taught that it is against code to install Romeo in conduit, besides it’s so hard to pull it through conduit. Stranded thhn wire is the best conductors for this project. You would need to tape the portion every five or six inches that go down the wall unless you can purchase pre twisted wire in the three conductor and size you need. Plus you should have used an industrial cover for the receptacle. It matches the 4 sqr. Box perfectly. The cover you used is for a flush mount.
Great video. My 2 cents as a master electrician..... 4 square above panel instead of LL/LR/LL, fiberglass fish rod for wall fish, raised industrial cover for receptacle, and metallic outlet box must be bonded as the conduit run is not continuous to panel.
This job would look different if I did it too. However, did he violate code anywhere? I question if the box is grounded iaw the nec. Just found this one.....but 406.11 (recepticles) connecting the ground terminal to the box.....250.146.(A). Roecepticle ground term to box, surface mounted., the yoke to box connection shall provide the effective ground path. So the box is grounded as per 314.4? The only possible violation I can see is 625.54, which requires a gfci breaker for car charging (ELECTRIC VEHICLE SERVICE EQUIPMENT) recepticles. I only deem it possible because of 90.4 and not enough information from ahj. Please not 625.54 the gfci requirement ...car charging was not changed in 2020 so maybe for 2017 or earlier. Now, I consider myself an "A-" guy.....good but not perfect. So if I missed a concern please let me know. And if I have a reference wrong, yeah, give that written smack down.
@@keithharrington8715 I think he did a good job, but to answer your question yes. The 4x4 outlet box utilized for the receceptacle would be required to be bonded to be code compliant. A ground stinger should have been installed into the 4x4 box, which would bond the box, attached metallic conduit, fittings, and metallic receptacle cover to prevent them from becoming energized.
@@keithharrington8715(IMHO) The articles you are referring to allow the receptacle to be grounded via its yoke in direct connection to the box. Not vice versa. Not good practice either way and would be highly frowned upon by ahj if you tried to use this shortcut.
@@rodneyparker9912 sir, I would have attached the egc with a wire to the box and recepticle (pigtailed it). However, 250.146 says you can skip the bonding jumper if you do 250.146 A, B, C, or D. It looks like here he followed (A).
@@rodneyparker9912 thanks Rodney. Looks like you are right. Did some better reading and The yoke can ground the recepticle to the box connected to the egc..
As a certified Tesla installer and a electrical contractor I have installed literally hundreds of Nema 14-50s and Tesla car chargers over the last 5 years. I really wish you would not tell "do it your selfers" to attempt this. I have been asked by Tesla to replace a number of improperly installed units because of improperly connected or torqued wires and other installer failures. There are too many places that wire can be nicked by novices or kinked with improper radius and over bending. I also was horrified at you using a metal fish tape in a live panel. I have taught a number of apprentices and I would never suggest using any conductive fish tape in a live panel. Fiberglass or nylon tapes are cheap. Your life is not. Also use insulated screwdrivers in a live panel. Wear gloves and eye protection always. Get a reamer tool, a stud finder and some other easy tools to afford. Also, one thing about running Romex in conduit. There is a heat dissipation issue. I was taught never run Romex over a foot in a conduit of any kind. If you have to, oversize the conduit. Maybe use one inch if you have to or run flex down through the wall to the panel and use regular stranded wire. All terminal screws should always be torqued with a flat blade or square drive screwdriver. Do not use a phillips. Final note: use an industrial type cover not the stainless finish cover you used for surface mounts. That cover you used is for in the wall applications.
Very sad, there are alot of ppl just like this guy on YT giving bad info. Only electricity is extremely dangerous and I think some ppl really don't understand it like professionals do.😔
I am guilty as charged for using RUclips for stuff. That said I just cringe when I see these guys showing anything more than swapping out an outlet. Somebody is going to get killed.
How about stripping the Romex sheath inside the conduit until you exit the conduit body inside the wall. Would be an easier pull and no heat gain in the conduit.
@@marcbreault9371 the insulation on the bare wire would have to be rated. The easier way would have been to pipe it 100 percent of the way and use THHN wire. Even if he didn't have access to a bender for the pipe to make a offset out of the top of the panel there's ways around that. For example, a piece of 3/4 flex in the wall up to that box. Or a short section of flex out the of panel to the finished side of drywall and then a flex connector into a barrel connector to a emt connector. I believe there's a connector that does this in on shot. I have a 1/2inch one floating around so guess there's a 3/4 one. The take away from this is just because you have a RUclips channel doesn't necessarily mean it is a good idea to promote showing people projects above peoples pay grade.
Good training for what NOT to DO. The original homebuilder's electrician was incompetent. All those romex cables entering panel top thru a single large connector a dangerous violation, even worse than ty-wrapping a bundle of romex.
Great video! I learned something new with the freakishly long needle nose plier tool. I'm a DIYer, but in the past, I've used coat hangers and all types of crap to get that wire out. Good to know that tool exists. If it's less than $50, I'll buy it. Personally, I wouldn't use drywall anchors to hold such a heavy plug. Then again, I'm one of those people who overdoes things. I would have reinforced the outlet with wood supports. So I would have cut out the sheetrock, added wood studs, and added the sheetrock back and re-taped it. Lastly, and most importantly, the outlet you choose if of CRITICAL IMPORTANCE!!! While you can go to any big box store and pick up a $9 NEMA 50 amp plug (the kind used for electric dryers) DO NOT USE THOSE! Those are not designed specifically to have current running through them for hours and hours and hours and there have been many stories of those melting and worse, starting fires. Get the industrial kind, like Hubbell. As of me writing this, they're $80, so they're not cheap. But if you're going to spend $50K (or more) on an EV, you're already saving money by doing the job yourself. Don't have your house burn down over a few bucks.
*Appears that Joel is installing a Hubbell 9450A, 50A, NEMA 14-50R receptacle. This is an industrial grade piece as FedSpec grade is expensive overkill. This is better than good for extended duty-cycle home use. $90 on Amazon. Do it once, do it right and be secure in the knowledge you did so. Your clue is B00IPBMUKY. Cheers!*
Not an electrician, but if I recall correctly it is OK to run romex through conduit, but usually not a great idea to do so. The fill table ends up treating the normally oval romex as a cylinder, and you need some absurdly oversized conduit to not over-fill the EMT. I can see why he'd do it for this install, to avoid putting conduit in the wall, but yeah, single conductors seem to be the way to go nearly every time conduit is involved.
I was able to install about 90 feet of 6/3 wire using your video as a reference guide and saved myself thousands of dollars. I just wanted to say thank you for the clear, and easy to understand video. Anyone thinking about doing this project can absolutely do it, just don't cut corners. Make sure you get a commercial grade Outlet like he said in the beginning of the video, and based on what iv read it sounds like a cheap torque screwdriver will be helpful to make sure those terminals don't ever come lose and cause problems in the future.
Defining what constitutes a ‘professional’ is very subjective. While this gentleman has experience, he does not have the depth that is necessary to be called a ‘professional’, in my opinion. While his explanation may enable a DIY’er to accomplish this project, it’s certainly made more difficult by installing nonmetallic sheathed cable (Romex) in a raceway, EMT in this installation. I won’t begin to discuss the electrical code violations, of which there were a few. Most inexperienced people following these steps will most likely be very frustrated by the time they finish.
I'm going to disagree. Yes, I'd have worked on a dead box and, yes, I'd have pulled 6-3 through a 1" EMT. Otherwise? Didn't see any gross errors. Oh, Romex in EMT is OK in our jurisdiction. Every damn county is different.
@@ethelryan257 I’m curious why you would take the time to install EMT and then go to the expense and trouble of installing ‘Romex’ when individual wires would be so much simpler and less expensive.
Tesla chargers only need 6/2. 6-50 plug and then 3/4” EMT fits fine. Also, I would use mc flex in the wall to the attic if possible and then just drop down EMT to charger. Looks really clean
1. You didn't use a GFCI breaker, which is required by code. 2. You didn't torque either the breaker or receptacle. Very important for constant, high ampacity loads to reduce overheating and fires. 3. You used an LB, which is not listed for what you used it for. A proper junction box would have been code. 4. The cover should have been an industrial raised, not a mud ring and flush mount plate. 5. The use of romex in conduit isn't done by professionals, but many DIYers who don't know any better, do. Never have understood the urge for those unqualified to make videos when they are really not qualified.
money guy got 2.1 million views for having no idea what he is doing connect blck to blck white to white, any monkey could do thus, but to actually understand it is a diff story
Why do you use 6/3 romex rather than individual conductors? It seems like individual wires would have been much easier to pull and to make the bend in the L-box. Great video and excellent information. Thanks.
Folks, 1 neutral wire per connection point. DO NOT share the screw position. 1 neutral. 2 grounds. After the 1st point of disconnect, you must separate the neutrals from the grounds. (typically a sub panel). If this is being inspected (which it probably isn't going to be) don't let an inspector see a ground and neutral on one screw or 2 neutrals. Also, not exactly necessary, but ground the receptacle box with a pigtail. The emt/box/recep all bonds back to the panel, but it is good practice to also bond the box by using a copper crimp to a pigtail and then to the receptacle. Old schoolers will tell you don't bother, you tell them to f off.
Would the potential hazard of an ungrounded recep. box be if it were ever to be energized due to a short to the hot somehow, then potentially someone could make contact with the box and get zooted? So if the recep box is grounded, if it ever gets energized by the hot wire fraying and making contact with it, what happens? Does it just cause the circuit breaker to trip? What if it's only a tiny little fray wire and it doesn't cause a massive current draw? could it potentially cause localized heating of a wooden stud and fire? please fill me in im curious as grounds were never really explained all that well as to how they actually worked to provide safety, other than tripping a GFCI on a bathroom circuit or something, but what about circuits without GFCI on them?
@@localbroadcast Obligatory "I am not an electrician". There is quite possibly some nuance I've missed, but the broad strokes should be reliable. Yes, that's the main reason for any and all metalwork enclosing high voltage electrical wiring to be grounded and or bonded - if any part of that exposed metalwork comes into contact with a live conductor, the breaker will trip from overcurrent (or any other present protections such as Arc Fault or Ground Fault protections if present on the breaker and applicable to the specific fault), thus preventing the metalwork from *staying* live for more than a split second and simultaneously drawing attention to the fault by preventing the circuit from working (live exposed metal will eventually zap *someone*, it's just a matter of time) . The only worse case scenario than silently live exposed metal is an actual fire. As to the other part of the question, that's an important reason to take the grounding connections every bit as seriously as the live ones: So long as the grounding connection is made properly and in good condition, the impedance and resistance of that path will be extremely low - hence any ground fault from a live conductor will cause a *massive* amount of current to flow. This ensures that the breaker trips immediately, before significant heating of the branch wiring can occur. If you have a high-resistance connection, that connection will heat up. If it's high resistance *enough* to prevent a breaker trip, it could indeed potentially create a fire - though I would think that that happens a lot more commonly on loose connections on the live and neutral conductors since you'd have a load completing the circuit instead of a short circuit, meaning the circuit resistance and impedance are added to the load, so you don't have a massive current flow but still have heating at the poor connection. If you have a tiny strand of live wire contacting a ground, you've still got a low-resistance and low-impedance path for current to flow on 99% of that circuit, and maybe a couple ohms at absolute most between the tiny strand and whatever it's touching.... that strand of wire just became a fuse. Either the strand blows clear, the breaker pops, or both in the vast, vast majority of cases. Even a 5 ohm resistance on a short circuit at 120V will draw 24A for 2.88Kw of heat produced at the fault - if your strand is tiny enough and badly connected enough to create 5 ohms, it definitely can't handle nearly 3000 watts of heat without melting clear in extremely short order.
In the electrical trade it is very hard to give absolutes because each piece is designed for its own special use. Generally, one screw-one wire. Breakers use heat, magnetism, or electronics to detect the current draw and open the breaker. A short circuit, like cutting a cable a cable with wire cutters can result in currents near 5,000 amps in that small instant of time the breaker takes to trip.. Yes, even #14 wire nears 5,000 amps. (Electrical welding of the cutters or burning some steel away.) GFCI's use electronic circuits to detect the current going out and coming back through the gcfi. When the difference gets to about 5 mAmps,, it trips to prevent current from going through the gfci and down an unknown path. This should protect people and equipment. Because their functions are different, someone cutting a live cable down stream (a load on gfci) will not trip the gfci, the breaker will. Most gfci's will then trip on "no power" and require they be reset also, after the breaker is re-shut, after power is restored. In a normal scenario when the box is grounded, any connection with the hot wire will again cause thousands of amps to shoot through the breaker and trip it.(should it get only close enough to arc, a standard breaker may not open, thus AFCI breakers.) The nec still lists emt conduit as an acceptable equipment ground. However, in this case, the conduit does not run back to the panel and would not be effective as a ground. Now things get interesting. The nec does allow grounding of the box by connecting the equipment ground to the recepticle and that connection through the mounting metal strap creates an effective ground path. Hope this gets your question answered. If not, let me know. Maybe a different explanation can be given.
@@keithharrington8715 if someone cuts Romex, chances are they'll hit ground before they hit neutral if cutting front the hot side first. This means some current going back on ground. If it's GFCI protected in that spot, it'll pop the GFCI. Which is why I like GFCI breakers at times.
@@adamplummer2190 I would like to exqmine what you are saying here. First, the NEC requires rounds ND neutrals be eectrically connected at the first means of disconnect for the service (main panel) ......making them about electrically the same. Now, let's try n some numbers..... 14 awg wire has a resistance of about 2.5 ohms per every though and feet. So a 50 foot run (out + back) should have a resistance of about (100 ft) or 0.5 ohms. So, our circuit resistance from the breaker to the cut spot is about one half ohm. Say zero for the gfci and the wire cutters are also zero. So our total circuit resistance is 0.5 ohms when the cutter hit metal. Current is. I=E/R I = 12 vac / 0.5 ohm. I = 240 amps seen on your 15 amp breaker protecting the gfic. Since both the breaker and the gfci both see this value at the exqct same time.....I do not think it matters which one trips first. I know the gfci will trip on a loss of power when the breaker trips. Now, I did the simple math here.....no impedance or vectors for the AC voltage, got the ohm value in Google, and used rms voltage not peak to peak. If you find a problem or error I made please let me know. If you need code sections let me know. Ch 9 table 8 might have a slightly different number, I was lazy wit Google. Again, I calculate over 200 amps through your 15 amp breaker the instant the cutters hit copper.
In general your main panel the grounds and neutrals are bonded - if a sub panel they must be separated. In a house there is only ONE location (at the main panel) where neutrals and ground are connected together and attached to a grounding electrode (like a ground rod)
Wrong cover at plug in. That's for a finished wall application. A raised cover is supposed to be used. That breaker should have been shut off for sure.
There are old electricians and their are bold electricians. Not too many old and bold electricians. I don't work on live distribution boxes if I can possibly avoid it. Being a woman, I don't have to compensate for 'shortcomings' by taking unnecessary risks. Great video, cute sparky. I believe 3/4" conduit is too small for current code on #6, I'd have gone up to 1" and lube is your friend.
I’m trying to figure out why he ran 6-3 through conduit - couldn’t he have saved a lot of time and money by running individual THHN/THWN wires? Isn’t the shielding of the 6-3 overkill? And as you mentioned - doesn’t he want to use 1 inch conduit based on the fill space of the 6-3? What am I missing?
Yea fiberglass fish tape for me I used 32 mm 1 and 1/4 in 12th of a kings foot measurements and put in a draw wire for possible additional wiring without ripping it all out or running alongside a few dollars up front 100s saved later.
It's a code violation to pull Romex through conduit you have to use number 6 THHN and a number 10 ground wire I am also a Tesla installer for the last 6 years and I can't believe that the supervisors have let this guy do unsatisfactory non code compliant work on Tesla installations he has violated too many code regulations. He should have pulled the number 6/3 Romex up into a Four square deep or 11/16 J box instead of using an llr. I've been a IBEW Union contractor for over 26 years and a licensed contractor at State of California for 37 years this guy has probably less than three years experience and I wouldn't have hired him more than the first week before I let him go
Being a member of the Union is actually a privilege the quality of educational material available to all apprentices and even through journeyman level is outstanding every year you can sign up for new classes to keep your informative educational experience at top-notch capabilities far surpassing non-union
This is not a certified tesla installer. This is just someone installing a 50 amp outlet for an ev to charge on. So this is not a tesla install or installer
Looks good, one thing, you could’ve used a j box and just put an extension then ran you’re conduit. Again 1000 ways to skin a cat but i think that would have made it easier for your install. 2. Your box or conduit isn’t grounded, you would need to ground the box with a pigtail in the case for whatever reason the box became energized you want a path to ground.
You should not be doing electrical work. Your going to get someone hurt bad. Working in a hot panel should only be done by a qualified electrician, when the power cannot be shut off, using a fiberglass non - conductive fish tape and the proper PPE. You do not have any PPE. OH YOU PROBABLY DONT KNOW WHAT THAT IS. No safety glasses no gloves. You are an accident waiting to happen.
As a union electrician western suburbs of Chicago this is nuts. First off go to Harbor Freight and buy a cheap fish stick set. Next is location dependent . We don't use rope a dope here everything is emt. For all the work you did fishing that wall it would have been faster to make a nice easy offset out the top of the panel and surface mount the whole thing. A little drywall patch and your done. The romex through the pipe was crazy, just buy some wire and push it . I'm not sure if that is even code. I like the idea of EV cars and I know people are shocked (no pun intended) at the cost of 240 install but some things regular folk just shouldn't mess with. Just last month I got tagged doing a friend a favor, Who knew this guys father 40 years ago switched the white wires for the basement lights. Again this was emt and thhn wire. My fault for not tick testing first.
Thank you, im from Chicago as well and I thought I was going crazy for telling him to just cut the damn drywall and make the full conduit connection from the beginning to the end. Drywall and some patch work isnt that hard. This is the lazy way to do it and not to code (maybe in his area but not everywhere thats for sure). Disliked video for the lazy work.
I was taught to wire to the breaker first, then install the breaker in the panel with the wires already. Is there some reason I'm not seeing to seat the breaker first and do the wiring in the more constrained space?
That can work well on smaller gauge wire like 12 and 10 but i would try to do anything larger with the breaker on the bus bar already to make it easier to give the wire some memory bends to make it look as good as possible but if I’m working inside a very cluttered panel that I just cannot get the wire on the breaker easily I pull the breaker off
I had 240v. outlet installed (NEMA 14-50). Need 3#6W+G (same as shown on you tube here) For Tesla. Once it is done it had about 30miles/hr. charge with 32/32Amp running. Then I installed Tesla NEW Wall connector inside garage. Require NO neutral. 2#4+G (No neutral). Wiring is much easier than outlet. Just pull wire from panel and passing thru back of base of wall connector (no wire cut). Loop to connect to base terminal. then snap wall connector into base and done. Speed is much faster 45 Miles/hr (48/48A) . Much easier than NEMA 14-50 outlet. It worth money to install TESLA wall connector instead of NEMA 14-50 (assume you have TESLA)
When working in a live panel with or without a fish tape ( finer glass ) I always Cover with cardboard . In this case I would push the card board in on the top right in case I let locknut fall - If would slide out onto the floor . I also squirt some lube in end of the EMT as I install - much easier to pull on long runs and around bends.
Yeah, not necessarily illegal, but man there were better choices. I get that he was trying to use materials readily available to the homeowner. But as someone else already pointed out, 6 feet of FMC from the condulet to the panel, and then just install three (3) #8 + (1) #10G (also readily available at the homecenter) and you have a much better installation.
Romex is not meant to be used in a conduit like that, it gets hotter than it should. Using THHN would be the right way to do this. You'd think a pro would know that stuff.
He should've grounded the box by wrapping the ground wire around an actual green screw in the back of the box. Those boxes are designed for that screw with a raised hump. Using the outlet as the ground link is not sufficient to ground the box and conduit run.
You don't have to ground the box if you use a self grounding receptacle. Just about all of them are self grounding these days. They have a little steel wire which crosses the screw tab on the receptacle which ensures a solid ground connection to the box. Believe it or not, according to NEC 2020, EMT is considered an acceptable ground path, so a separate ground wire isn't even required. It's just common and good practice to have one. He couldn't have done that in this scenario though because the conduit isn't continuous.
@@Joe-by8jh what code are you referring to? According to 250.146(B) the screws in the receptacle yoke are suitable to establish a bond between the receptacle and the box, therefore grounding the box. (B) Contact Devices or Yokes. Contact devices or yokes designed and listed as self-grounding shall be permitted in conjunction with the supporting screws to establish the grounding circuit between the device yoke and flush-type boxes.
@@dr.cupcakes626 The language reads: "shall be permitted to ground the receptacle to the box". You can use the self-grounding yokes to ground the receptacle to the box, but not the other way around. I don't know an inspector that would allow the receptacle itself to be the only ground link on a conduit assembly. It's just sloppy and bad practice. If the conduit ran all the way to the panel, it'd be another story.
@@bnasty267 That's not what it says. It says word for word "shall be permitted in conjuction with the supporting screws to establish the grounding circuit between the device yoke and flush-type boxes." grounding the box to the receptacle or the receptacle to the box makes no difference as far as grounding goes, it's all bonded together. You're right though, removing the receptacle would effectively unground a noncontinuous conduit run. But I can't find any language in the NEC that prohibits this. Correct me if I'm wrongm
@@dr.cupcakes626 I agree that the NEC is unclear here. However, most inspections I've done are at the rough-in stage, where the receptacle is not installed yet. This install wouldn't have a ground, and would fail. I doubt you'd be able to argue the technicality, and honestly, why would you? You have a EGC available, a dimple on the box ready for a ground screw, and conduit that isn't grounded elsewhere. This is definitely one of those things where it's super easy/free to not piss off the inspector, and that's what ultimately matters, even if you ignore the safety aspects.
One think I never do is run a metal fish in a live panel. Having been in a arc flash myself and seen others you learn. I see someone said they done it a thousand times. He has been lucky and maybe 1001 will make him smarter. Rest of the video was good but also agree you need to jumper your ground wire to the box.
@john alt yes indeed you may think you're a pro but accidents do happen. For an instructional video it should of been a fiber glass or nylon snake and or the metal snake should of been tape up at least 8FT but that's bit annoying to do. There is so many OSHA rules and safety we all have to follow in NY or other states.
I was going to said that too, they sell some fiberglass fish rods that are great for that , since you know when those metal fish tapes move aré incontrolable, the rest I have no complaint
Ohh yeah I forgot the receptacle box needs a # 10 pigtail and spliced and get another pigtail for the receptacle. Also an industrial cover would look better since is surface mounted
One correction - NEC 625.54 require that EV charging receptacles be GFCI protected so you should have used a GFCI breaker. (garage receptacles are required to be GFCI protected as well.)
The tesla wall charger and others are GFCI PROTECTED INSIDE THE CHARGER SO YOU DONT NEED GFCI BRAKER BUT LIKE THE 14-50 AND 6-50 ARE NOT GFCI PROTECTED YOU NEED A GFCI BREAKER.
GFCI breaker required for garage receptacles, not required for hardwired EVSE, which is arguable one of the biggest reasons to use a hardwired EVSE. The EVSE has ground fault circuitry and putting it on a GFCI breaker can cause nuisance tripping. Hardwired EVSE also would have alleviated the need for a neutral conductor.
IT WOULD'VE BEEN MUCH EASIER IF YOU WOULD HAVE USE THHN WIRE. YOU WOULD'HD INSTALLED THE COMPLETE RACEWAY THEN PULLED THE WIRE THROUGH WITHOUT HAVING TO REMOVE THE LB AND 90°, BUT YOU'RE A PRO I GUESS.
Some good information...I guess. I would never pull NM through conduit. Code or no code. To keep it clean above the panel I would use a 411 box. It is ok to make joints with wires. I know some will cry that it is a potential trouble spot but not if you do it properly. NM in wall then THHN in the conduit. The condulet at the top of the wall is more work than is necessary. Well made video! I like the effort the young man made to explain things to DIYers.
According to NEC 2023 358.60 Grounding. “EMT shall be permitted as an equipment grounding conductor.” The EMT locknutted to the metal box and the physical contact they make ensure mechanical ground.
I'm not a fan of putting Romex in conduit. I have NEVER seen professional electricians do that. I would run individual THHN wires in the conduit. Then, set a larger junction box above the load center and run a short length of Romex down the wall. Also, I'd like to see a direct ground wire on the new box where the car charger will plug-in. Remember, the most important wire in your circuit is the ground wire. Regarding fish tape, use a plastic fish tape, less risk of touching live circuits. Having said that, I've gone back to the Internal Combustion Engine.
It seems like the way it is Demonstrated would be more stable under 40 to 50 amp use. With electric cars ( especially Teslas) if you split the ground you ( may) get an error code and the car will limit you to 15 to 20 amps.
That method would cost more as THHN only comes in large spools. Plus you have more JOINTs or connection points for the wire to pass electricity through.
Hubble also makes the Bryant 14-50 Nema receptacle. The Hubble cost $135 on Amazon and the Bryant cost $46 at Grainger(Model: 9450FR). Exact same product, both made by Hubble.
Fantastic tutorial ! I learned a lot, took many many notes. Stopped , replayed , restarted so many times I lost count . I didn't want to miss anything. I spent over 2 hours watching the 48 min. video , couldn't get enough. Thank you very much. I will be assisting my brother who is an electrician in installing an electric car charging station in my house and I didn't want to look like a dope. And thanks for NOT having any loud distracting music in the background as so many other You Tubers do.
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Attaching the power wires to the unattached breaker, and then snapping the breaker into the box, is a slightly easier way to proceed. Anyway thanks for doing it LIVE! (Ha ha ha)🙂
The one thing you failed to do was to ground your electrical box where the outlet is at. Yes I know it will be going around the bracket at the plug which provides a ground. And it grounds the Box. But when you remove the plug the Box becomes ungrounded. Without a connected ground connection. So always ground your electrical box when it made of metal.
Pro ? You do clean work but missed couple things: - the tesla charger says not to use a GFCI breaker, but some other manufacturers do. - you CAN NOT ( and should not ) pull a romex through conduit. Why? The wires get hotter when in romex sheathing and in side conduit. Especially after you kept repeating that its a continuous load. - steel fish steel through live panel ? Please don't. I've been in the trade 20 years. Do I do it ? Yes. But I I'm making a how to video use a fiber glass fish. - if you want it to look like a real pro install : don't use the 90° elbows , just conduit. - not sure why you use a mud ring - and, some jurisdictions do not allow the conduit to be used as a ground, so need to pull a ground wire, and use a ground tail in the 4" box.
We were thing the same things . Fiber glass fish tape less chance of sparking any thing but to each there own he made it work. And I know nec code disagrees with putting Romex cable in pipes .good point yea any thing 3-4 hrs or more is a continuous load so def a no no especially in a garage that doesn’t have AC or climate control to keep the room temp regulated .as far as using 90* elbo on pipe well it may not look the best but I will give him points he’s doing this to teach DIY ppl how to do it. Most of them won’t know how to use a pipe binder let alone know how to subtract the correct amount off the 90* bend when bending pipe so for that it makes since to show prefab 90’s you can buy at store.
These outlets are also terrific for powering large single phase air compressors and welders, and rotary phase converters to run things like used three phase industrial air compressors, welders etc depending on size. DIYers with patience can wallow in quality used industrial equipment for same or less money than consumer crap but having that large single phase outlet (or more than one since parts are cheap and you're in there anyway!) is key. I even added them to my rented house (with landlord permission, he was also my best friend) and took them when I moved. Look into the many products including cords, splitters and other hardware used to power RVs from these outlets. I promise it will be useful info if you DIY. Related note re: "cool stuff powered by outlets": I put my horizontal tank compressors and my welders on dollies I fabbed to use scaffolding casters (which just slide into a tube and are magnificent, get the round shank style) for easy handling. If you rent and put everything heavy on wheels the rest of your life gets impressively easier. You eventually need to move most of your stuff so if you make that low effort in the beginning you never sweat again.
Guys and gals listen to this man when he says "buy an industrial rated outlet" buy a hubbel not the cheap 12 dollar one from.big box!!! Those are good for dryers and such not a constant 50 amp draw for hours! I know the hubbel is 50 bucks more but I've seen my welders melt the cheap ones and your EV is drawing more then my welders and for longer. Don't die in your sleep over 50 bucks. Excellent video
Excellent video, I didn't imagine myself watching this in one sitting but Joel's calm teaching style and work flow is mesmerizing to watch. Thanks so much for the collaboration, Scott and Joel! You guys both put out quality, well-articulated content. Also subscribed to Joel!
I also felt this video was very informative. I pretty much ignore the "let me see what I can criticize" people. 😅 If they posted a video, there's be others criticizing their procedures, have not doubt.
This guy is a hack electrician, die cast coupling, steel connector, mixing type of connectors, WRONG next it’s a 3/8” offset not 1/2” offset. If this guy new his sheet he wouldn’t run 6/3 romex through an LB, ROMEX IN A CONDUIT IS ALSO WRONG, DIY just have the guy at HD cut individual wire to your length, 40’ feet of conduit eguals 3- 46’ of #6 and 46’ of #10 green, individual wire is more cost effective than romex
As a handyman when I pull any cable using the ground wire, I cut the conductors (Black/Red/White) so they are staggered (different lengths) before taping them to the snake. This gives them a more gradual entry into the conduit.
As a handyman you shouldn't be pulling any wires in anything unless it's your own house. As a licensed electrician I'm constantly fixing handyman specials. You may be the exception to the rule but generally handyman think they know but don't know Jack. Codes updated every 3 years and it's a four-year apprenticeship just to get a journeyman license. Electricity is no joke and should be taken very seriously poor jobs can risk people's lives and safety not to mention property damage. Anybody can pull wire through a piece of conduit but do they know how to derate ,do they know how to do load calculations do they know how to make sure the breakers the right size to protect the wire? there are so many factors that one wouldn't think about.
Nice video. I would use safety glasses, especially working in a live electrical panel. Secondly, I would use an insulated fish tape while in a live panel.
Very good video & illustration of this electric installation. The pros were able to identify several areas that need to be considered with this electric project to meet a safe NEC installation. Also, when working in or around energized equipment, OSHA, mandates PPE equipment to be worn for added safety. Always best to de-energize equipment when working in or around electric equipment. Otherwise, a very educational video!
You / he should've used 1. a bigger conduit 2. Use Lubericant and yes 3. The LB instead of the LLR. No point in shoving and fighting with the 6/3 Romex in 3/4 conduit.
@@ericfraser7543 First part is wrong, second one is bad practice. One EMT fitting goes loose and your ground is broken. Every quality electrician I know will run a dedicated ground.
1. When working in a panel, WEAR GLOVES. 2. Bend the conduit instead of using a premade 90 for a cleaner look, it really is easy. 3. Use a box out of the wall and transition to individual wires in the conduit...MUCH easier pull. 4. Use pull lubricant and 5. Use an insulated screwdriver in a live panel. ALL IMHO.
You generally aren't supposed to run cables through conduit, just individual conductors. That's why it was so hard to pull. Should've installed a J box above the panel, brought the Romex from the panel to that J box, then transitioned to the EMT, with THHN conductors. Then make sure there are grounding/bonding pigtails on the boxes. Or just cut the wall open and run the EMT the whole way and patch it after. Lastly, it's 240 volts, not 220. There's no 110 or 220 in the USA, just 120VAC and 240VAC.
Which code states that running NM cable through conduit is unacceptable? I have heard that myth repeated over and over, but I have yet to see any codes that substantiate that claim. But with that said, I suppose individual wires might be a bit easier/faster to pull and maybe a little cheaper.
@@averyalexander2303 It isn't against code but you have to size the conduit properly, adjust ampacity if necessary, and you cannot put the NM inside of a conduit if the conduit is outside. He struggled to run that cable through the conduit because it was too tight of a fit, then he didn't use lube, and he didn't properly bond/ground the EMT. To me there are several other better ways to have done this installation.
@@illestofdemall13 Makes sense, thanks for clarifying! As I said I agree that individual wires would have overall been a better method for this application.
@@averyalexander2303 The installer knows how to "make it work" but there are some key issues that he missed. If you are following the NEC and also doing the job safely, then there are several ways to do it. One big issue I see is having a piece of EMT used to protect the cable, but it isn't bonded/grounded to the ground of the cable that's coming from the panel and going to the charger receptacle. This could potentially be a shock hazard to the customer if there happened to be a ground fault inside of the conduit. He is only relying on the ground screw of the receptacle and the mounting screws of the receptacle yoke to complete electrical continuity of the ground.
You should have use an industrial raised cover instead of a 2 gang mud ring and cover plate. Also you forgot to bond the 4 square box and needs to be on a GFI breaker.
I'm not an electrician, but almost all, if not all, EVSE's (Electrict Vehicle Supply Equipment) AKA EV Chargers have a GFI breaker built into them. They actually recommend NOT using a GFI breaker.
@@lars949 the latest NEC code states that, but many municipalities have not adopted the latest code yet. Plus GFCI for the EVSE will likely cause false trips. The best this is to hardwire the EVSE which will negate the need for GFCI breaker. My county still does not require GFCI in the garage outlets so I ran my NEMA 14-15 without it. I will however be converting to hard wired as I am adding a second EVSE with power sharing a\will put in a sub panel to avoid a second long run back to Amin panel or the need for a junction box to handle the splits. This will allow me to de-energize either EVSE individually.
8:49 - Actually, a better part to use would be a cover with a 2.1" hole already in it. It mounts to the 4" square box, as well as the receptacle itself. Or, simply get a surface-mount 50A 4-wire range receptacle, and then you won't need any additional boxes as it's all contained in one unit.
He mentioned around 41:35 the mud ring is to get a bit of extra space in the box. Definitely agreed a proper cover would look cleaner; whoever wired up my house used the method shown in this video, and I can't say I'm a fan. Can't find dimensions on the outlet he used, but Leviton's offering is right about 2" deep, cutting the dimensions a bit close. A 3.5" box might have been better.
@@DonaldZiems A proper surface Cover ( Garvin) would provide the same extra depth. If needed a 4x4 extension box could be added for an additional 1.5 depth .
I never like flush mount device covers in a surface mount installation as the sharp corners exposed can cause problems or catch clothing if you brush up against the box.
Great communication however teaching homeowners to enter a live panel is unprofessional. Even liscensed electricians should be doing everything they can to work in a zero energy state and when there is no other option you should be wearing correct ppe. Also, you should not be putting Romex in conduit. I would never let my guys do this.
Dont you know everyone is diy now dont need electricians, plumbers, hvac techs etc its all basic skills a monkey could do LOL I agree, thesw channels are just grifting for money and content there is a reason why we have professionals diy is fine for someone who has at least some experience but stuff lile this is a no go for people with no electrical experience the dangers far exceed what is practical for a diy Sorry, but I dont want my house burning down because some fool just followed a video in thw internet
Yeah, I feel like he could’ve minimized risk by shutting off the main breaker. Yeah the bottom part would still be live but it’s a lot less space that’s energized. Good tips on the cardboard and fiberglass fish rods. I’m gonna keep those in mind for my future projects. Overall good video though, and was laid out well, and well presented.
Using Romex in the conduit in this application is not ideal (against code in wet locations). I would recommend you get THHN wires cut to the length you need. In my area Home Depot sells THHN by the foot. You could use 3/4" schedule 40 conduit which will fit 4 x 6-gauge wires.
Great vid, thank you so much. Pro electrical engineering tip (Note: we often work in an EE lab with both low and high voltage open equipment with lots of possibility to create a short circuit with any metal objects that might get inside the equipment we are testing) : engineers must remove all conductive jewelry!
Very good advice! Years ago, an electrician friend of my parents died when a ring he was wearing touched a heavy load. Watching the guy in this video was giving me the heebee jeebees because it you get careless for just a split second you can get killed. Much better off to kill the power instead of yourself.
Not sure where you live but code says no romex inside a conduit. Should have put junction box instead of lb use seal tight or greenfield down to panel and pulled stranded thhn the whole way
You know they make a non-conductive fish tape. I recommend using it. Also to make life easier you don’t have to have the insulation inside the EMT part of the run, makes the pull easier. And I would have used a ground screw in the junction box, although it is already mechanically grounded.
Is it? I don't think it is. He didn't use any conduit in the wall between the breaker box, and his first LL/LR conduit body near the ceiling. So, I don't think the terminal junction box is actually grounded. Just one big run of metal not connected to anything, which is a risk.
There are several things wrong here: The conduit is too small for the cable The conduit is not grounded The conduit is supposed to be continuous before the conductors are installed The box was not properly bonded And someone is going to cut themselves on that cover
....and the Tesla will eventually ignite itself in your garage while you sleep. Fire extinguishers won't put out a lithium battery fire. Make sure to make another exit door in your house.
isn't the metal face of the ev plug connected (internaly) with the ground pin-screw, thus touching the metal box connects the whole conduit to ground? i find that to be the case but i don;t know about this one. not an electrician btw, just asking.
1. Turn off the service disconnect or the master breaker. LOCK and TAG it. Sure, you're in the same room, but what you're teaching is missing this crucial step. There's no need to "have the utility company pull the meter" when you can just turn off the service disconnect. It's right next to the meter. Red handle. Can't miss it. 2. Use a Magna-Pull or attach rare-earth magnets and pull the fish-tape through the wall using the magnet. Fishing for your fishtape using either another tape or long pliers when YOU KNOW FOR A FACT it's amidst other live wires is stupid. Stupid is what electrocuted people are. When you're teaching, teach to that level and you'll have it all covered. 3. Whether you're writing a resume or doing a presentation on wiring an outlet, the word you want is "use." You abuse the word utiilze far too much. 4. Oh, so you "discoverred a stud" where you wanted your NEMA receptacle. Poor planning. Bu hey, why not do the homeowner a favor and toenail the box to the stud? That's going to be a lot stronger for the daily plug/unplug than 3 drywall anchors and (I guess) one drywall screw. 5. Your LBs are lazy. You spend all the time working within their limitations and the end result is aesthetically ugly. Yeah, it takes a little more effort to cut drywall, put the conduit in the wall, restore the drywall, mud, patch, and paint. If you can't be bothered to do that you're another lazy handyman masquerading as a master electrician. What? "But it's just a garage?" The NEC and our sense of beauty don't stop at "the door to the magic room known as the garage." Pretty sloppy. You got the electrics right, but that's the easy part. You messed up on safety, fishing, conduit planning, explanations of how YOUR slop isn't how it should always be done (see also about service loops - if you can leave one then do!) If you'd done it right you'd have shaved off about $300 in conduit, connectors, and LBs. Attaching the receptacle to the stud would have been golden OR you could provide a NEMA 14-50 M-F so that the unplugging/plugging stresses out a $30 pigtail, not an installed recep. You're badly out of date, and your safety skills are as well. Get your big boy chone's on, and see how it's done now, not in the 1970s. E
To point #1, residential service in the US isn't required to have a separate service disconnect on existing installs (only new construction). There is usually nothing between the meter and the 200A (in this example) master breaker for a DIY-er to lock/tag.
@@keithharrington4595 You are absolutely correct except it is 334.15 B. Here is the problem. That references where subject to physical damage. Now go to Article 300.4 that gives the situations where protection against physical damage exists. Which of the listed situations is this project noted? I’m thinking this project is not in any of the listed situations and is not installed within the NEC rules. ab diver seems to be correct, but did not tell us why. The electrician should have placed the NM cable within the walls and ceiling, or run conduit the full length and used conductors, not NM cable. There used to be length restrictions on NM in conduit, but somehow it got removed from NEC. Maybe they were too specific?
This video is very disappointing from a safety perspective. The gentleman is implying that "pros" do not need to turn the power off before working in the panel. If you are a DIYer considering taking on a project of this type, understand that the real professionals actually do turn the power off. And we do not stick conductive tools into hot panels, nor conductive fishtapes. We do not close the breakers of new, untested circuits with the panel cover off either. Turn the power off before removing the panel cover. Then test the panel bus with a volt meter to ensure the panel is de-energized. In this case, as he correctly pointed out, the incoming bus is still energized even with the main off. To mitigate this hazard it might be necessary to have the utility company briefly pull the meter to allow you to work safely. Complete the work, close the covers, THEN energize the panel and finally the circuit in question.
In today's world, the notion of "let's be careful" is over. It is not merely a matter of avoiding getting a shock, which in itself can easily be lethal. Depending on a number of variables that are only controlled by the utility, it is possible to have an explosion and fireball which could severely burn and permanently disfigure someone standing in front of an energized, unprotected panel, especially dressed in only a short sleeve t-shirt as this person is doing.
Service disconnect not mentioned until the end? Not even eye protection on a live circuit with his face a foot from the open panel? Not testing the conductors before honking on the receptacle after pulling? Right at about 39 minutes this guy really disappoints. I wonder if his feet were bare on the concrete floor. And this video is intended for DIY?
While I agree with most of what you said . idk anyone who has the meter pulled to add a circuit .
@@fmphotooffice5513 you’re right he should stand 5 feet away in a long sleeve shirt
@@noahholt482 the sarcasm is not a good look. The requirements of being an electrical worker are more demanding than they were 20 years ago. NFPA 70E has forever changed the way we work. For the better. We know better now. How to reduce and control risks, with a much better chance of going home safely to our families each day. The old days of being the macho cowboy working hot once was a sign of a good electrician. Now it’s a sign of a fool.
Jesus Christ.
And yes, pros understand the cost of killing power to circuits they aren't working on. In a residence, it's not critical. Imagine this was in a shop and he had to run power to a new cash register: killing power to the entire building, or half the building: while safe, NOT PRACTICAL.
Especially for DIY’ers - if the appliance end is already completed and you are wiring into panel, ALWAYS check for continuity (short) between the cables before you land them in the panel. Once landed, it’s not easy to check. If you get continuity between any pair of wires, there is a short and you must not land any wires.
Good advice.
I've already install a 240 and this lines up with what I've done. Excellent video. Thank you for taking the time to do it.
Enjoyed this well presented video. As a master electrician in Michigan for 40 years I do have a couple of comments.
First I would have used a 4 square box on the wall above panel, you would have eliminated a lot of stress. Two, on the outlet I think the sharp corners of the flush use plate may be just waiting for someone to cut themselves, a raised cover would have been the correct one.
Also when working with a metal fish tape in a panel is always dangerous. A no conducive fish rod would have been my first choice, if not available I would have stuffed a cardboard guard inside the panel.
Safety first !
thanks for the tips.
As a previous electrician I agree with you.
This is great information, thank you 🙏
My father was a master electrician here in Michigan as well (IBEW 692.) There were a few tense moments in this video until I remembered that if this guy would have made contact he probably wouldn’t have been “available” to finish this project 😁
Still would have covered the breakers with cardboard!
Romex through conduit, and metal fish tape in a hot panel.... this video needs a constant disclaimer on the screen
You can’t feed a 50A continuous load with a 50A circuit breaker. Most circuit breakers, including the Square D QO breakers shown in this video, are only rated for 80% duty. This means that even though the 50A circuit breaker will supply 50A, it is not meant for supplying that much current for 3 hours or more. This setup would, however, be sufficient for supplying 40A continuously since 50A breaker x 0.8 = 40A. I’m sure this is what you meant.
Most home EV chargers are 40A or less.
This guy belongs in Low voltage data work
The reason why he had so much trouble pulling is that the EMT he used (3/4 inch) was undersized for the Romex he used (6-3 w/gnd.) 2020 NEC Chapter 9, Table 1 and Chapter 9, Item 9 requires 53% maximum fill for cable in conduit or tubing, which would be exceeded in his situation. So 1 inch EMT, or individual THHN's where 40% fill can be used.
Thanks for the feedback James, appreciate the help.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I tried what James said and it electrocuted my balls off. LOL. Thanks for making the video
What's really annoying is hooking up a spa disconnect with 6/3 in a tiny ass box.
Exactly
@@fernandoprieto2865 This is exactly why some people should just hire some one!
Technically it should have been single conductors through the conduit with a box above the panel. Then from the box romex should've been ran through the wall and joints made in the box between the romex and THHN wires. BUT I hate making joints in a new circuit so I would've done it the same way. Id rather have romex in conduit than have joints in a brand new circuit with extra potential to fail in the future as long as its interior conduit. Definitely would've had that panel cover on with the fishtape flopping all around.
It was great video. There are some recommendations:
- Using glows and safety glasses are always better, especially when you work in a live panel. As seen in viodeo, even you as a professional can cut your hand. I understand you are a professional but similarly you could get shock.
-You forgot to use plastic conduit bushings at the termination locations.
-it is better to mark the high of box and cut your conduit accordingly. It can give a better result for box the high, and reduce risk of miscalculations.
-Better to kill the power before start, since your fish teyp is not the plastic one, you could make a short-circuit.
Thank you for the video and fishing tips.
I though plastic bushings are only required in FMC/AC/BX and not EMT/RMC
The one comment I have is regarding your grounding path for the conduit. You go into great detail about ensuring your connections are secure, all locknuts and set screws tight. However, I didn’t see a grounding pigtail from the receptacle to the metal box. The other end of your run ends at the wall with no conducive path down to the panel. I know it’s not practical to run conduit through the wall to the panel, but without a grounding pigtail on the other end, how would any fault current make it back to the panel to trip the breaker should the conduit become energized? Did I miss something?
I noticed and thought the same thing. Makes you think . But with ground wire grounded to the outlet also ground the piping too?
No. Each of the components of the outlet are electrically isolated from each other. For the ground of the outlet to be connected to the metal box/conduit there would need to be a grounding pigtail to connect them.
Great point, I totally missed that. As far as I can tell you're right, the EMT nor the box is bonded properly.
@@timcaron9049 theoretically yes. But without the wiring device in place with the covers on, the pipe is not bonded. And while a grounding pigtail to a wiring device is not required when the metal box is bonded, I don't think the reverse is true from a Code perspective.
I suspect the metal mounting tabs on the outlet are bonded to the ground terminal, which would bond the box. However, the other end of the conduit isn't bonded. I'm not an electrician, but I heard that both ends of the conduit should be bonded.
Too many things to comment on. Not what I would consider a pro job. Retired master electrician. Never worked in a place that would allow a three or four inch chase nipple in the top of the panel and allow all the circuits to run through it. Amazing. Also, if you're going to work on a live panel (And I recommend a DIYer never do such a thing), take a piece of cardboard and tape it over the panel on three sides allowing just enough room to push the top of the cardboard into the panel so that you can insert your fish tape through the top knockout. This should keep you from contacting any live circuits when that fish tape accidentally flops around. Nowadays, they actually have fiberglass fish tapes which would be a lot safer for this job. I also spent 20 years as a paramedic and took countless DIYers to the ER for attempting jobs like this on live panels. JMO.
Not a pro job. Just because it works that doesn't mean it's done correctly, lots of violations.
i don't think this guy knows enough about this to be posting videos. i'm not an electrician, but even i know this wasn't done right. of course i been at it a while and i've done a lot of research on this. even if i was just running 110 i wouldn't have done it this way.
How can the conduit system be part of the ground system when it is not continuous to the panel?
This is pure Mickey Mouse business. You lose me at 2:41: Anyone who has been around live gear knows you limit the gesturing, less finger pointing, use a plastic pen, etc. Glaring safety issues, poor planning, improper material selection, and refusal to deviate/learn once you encountered obvious issues. You also violated the minimum bending radius of the NM cable when shoehorning it into the conduit body, it's usually something like 5x the cable diameter. An often overlooked point on conductors is that the 6AWG in NM cable is 7-strand, whereas typical 6 AWG THHN/THWN is 19-strand. Not all wire is created equal, which is partly to blame for how tough of a pull that was for you. You know they make industrial raised covers right? Much cleaner than a plaster ring/faceplate, your first hint that was the wrong part is the lack of plaster/wallboard!
I'm not sure why you'd be proud of this representation of the work, and I'd be worried that others following your lead will get hurt in the process.
Right there with you brother.
Conduit body should have been a J box instead and THHN pulled to outlet location, industrial cover and please connect ground to the deep 1900 box......
@@macbigmac5926 I would have preferred to run flex in the wall to LB or J box and run one length of THHN all the way in the conduit. Thereby no splice in the run of wire. Not a good practice splicing #6 on a continuous use load.
If he wants this to be a DIY, I'm assuming the person going to attempt this is lacking electrical knowledge. Maybe he should warn them about the busbar or lugs before popping off the cover.
I was taught that it is against code to install Romeo in conduit, besides it’s so hard to pull it through conduit. Stranded thhn wire is the best conductors for this project. You would need to tape the portion every five or six inches that go down the wall unless you can purchase pre twisted wire in the three conductor and size you need. Plus you should have used an industrial cover for the receptacle. It matches the 4 sqr. Box perfectly. The cover you used is for a flush mount.
Who ever taught you it was against code, should not be teaching. Get a code book look it up for your self. 334 covers NM cable to help you out
Great video. My 2 cents as a master electrician..... 4 square above panel instead of LL/LR/LL, fiberglass fish rod for wall fish, raised industrial cover for receptacle, and metallic outlet box must be bonded as the conduit run is not continuous to panel.
This job would look different if I did it too. However, did he violate code anywhere? I question if the box is grounded iaw the nec.
Just found this one.....but 406.11 (recepticles) connecting the ground terminal to the box.....250.146.(A). Roecepticle ground term to box, surface mounted., the yoke to box connection shall provide the effective ground path. So the box is grounded as per 314.4?
The only possible violation I can see is 625.54, which requires a gfci breaker for car charging (ELECTRIC VEHICLE SERVICE EQUIPMENT) recepticles.
I only deem it possible because of 90.4 and not enough information from ahj.
Please not 625.54 the gfci requirement ...car charging was not changed in 2020 so maybe for 2017 or earlier.
Now, I consider myself an "A-" guy.....good but not perfect. So if I missed a concern please let me know. And if I have a reference wrong, yeah, give that written smack down.
@@keithharrington8715 I think he did a good job, but to answer your question yes. The 4x4 outlet box utilized for the receceptacle would be required to be bonded to be code compliant. A ground stinger should have been installed into the 4x4 box, which would bond the box, attached metallic conduit, fittings, and metallic receptacle cover to prevent them from becoming energized.
@@keithharrington8715(IMHO) The articles you are referring to allow the receptacle to be grounded via its yoke in direct connection to the box. Not vice versa. Not good practice either way and would be highly frowned upon by ahj if you tried to use this shortcut.
@@rodneyparker9912 sir, I would have attached the egc with a wire to the box and recepticle (pigtailed it). However, 250.146 says you can skip the bonding jumper if you do 250.146 A, B, C, or D.
It looks like here he followed (A).
@@rodneyparker9912 thanks Rodney. Looks like you are right. Did some better reading and The yoke can ground the recepticle to the box connected to the egc..
As a certified Tesla installer and a electrical contractor I have installed literally hundreds of Nema 14-50s and Tesla car chargers over the last 5 years. I really wish you would not tell "do it your selfers" to attempt this. I have been asked by Tesla to replace a number of improperly installed units because of improperly connected or torqued wires and other installer failures. There are too many places that wire can be nicked by novices or kinked with improper radius and over bending.
I also was horrified at you using a metal fish tape in a live panel. I have taught a number of apprentices and I would never suggest using any conductive fish tape in a live panel. Fiberglass or nylon tapes are cheap. Your life is not. Also use insulated screwdrivers in a live panel. Wear gloves and eye protection always. Get a reamer tool, a stud finder and some other easy tools to afford.
Also, one thing about running Romex in conduit. There is a heat dissipation issue. I was taught never run Romex over a foot in a conduit of any kind. If you have to, oversize the conduit. Maybe use one inch if you have to or run flex down through the wall to the panel and use regular stranded wire.
All terminal screws should always be torqued with a flat blade or square drive screwdriver. Do not use a phillips.
Final note: use an industrial type cover not the stainless finish cover you used for surface mounts. That cover you used is for in the wall applications.
Very sad, there are alot of ppl just like this guy on YT giving bad info. Only electricity is extremely dangerous and I think some ppl really don't understand it like professionals do.😔
I am guilty as charged for using RUclips for stuff. That said I just cringe when I see these guys showing anything more than swapping out an outlet. Somebody is going to get killed.
Question. Here he's presumably installing 240. Here in the SF bay area, I haven't seen 240 anywhere. Is 208 sufficient for charging a tesla?
How about stripping the Romex sheath inside the conduit until you exit the conduit body inside the wall. Would be an easier pull and no heat gain in the conduit.
@@marcbreault9371 the insulation on the bare wire would have to be rated. The easier way would have been to pipe it 100 percent of the way and use THHN wire. Even if he didn't have access to a bender for the pipe to make a offset out of the top of the panel there's ways around that. For example, a piece of 3/4 flex in the wall up to that box. Or a short section of flex out the of panel to the finished side of drywall and then a flex connector into a barrel connector to a emt connector. I believe there's a connector that does this in on shot. I have a 1/2inch one floating around so guess there's a 3/4 one. The take away from this is just because you have a RUclips channel doesn't necessarily mean it is a good idea to promote showing people projects above peoples pay grade.
Using a steel fishtape in a live panel? That's sporty!
Good training for what NOT to DO. The original homebuilder's electrician was incompetent. All those romex cables entering panel top thru a single large connector a dangerous violation, even worse than ty-wrapping a bundle of romex.
When that house was built it was legal to bring all the home runs through the 2” male adapter, if you don’t know codes don’t respond 😂😂
When was it code legal to have the ‘home run’ cables enter the panel through a ‘male adapter’?
i didnt know you can put those wires through the conduit. I thought it had to be indivdiual wires to avoid heating
You can … you just should NEVER .
Your right, you are not supposed to
Great video! I learned something new with the freakishly long needle nose plier tool. I'm a DIYer, but in the past, I've used coat hangers and all types of crap to get that wire out. Good to know that tool exists. If it's less than $50, I'll buy it.
Personally, I wouldn't use drywall anchors to hold such a heavy plug. Then again, I'm one of those people who overdoes things. I would have reinforced the outlet with wood supports. So I would have cut out the sheetrock, added wood studs, and added the sheetrock back and re-taped it.
Lastly, and most importantly, the outlet you choose if of CRITICAL IMPORTANCE!!! While you can go to any big box store and pick up a $9 NEMA 50 amp plug (the kind used for electric dryers) DO NOT USE THOSE! Those are not designed specifically to have current running through them for hours and hours and hours and there have been many stories of those melting and worse, starting fires. Get the industrial kind, like Hubbell. As of me writing this, they're $80, so they're not cheap. But if you're going to spend $50K (or more) on an EV, you're already saving money by doing the job yourself. Don't have your house burn down over a few bucks.
*Appears that Joel is installing a Hubbell 9450A, 50A, NEMA 14-50R receptacle. This is an industrial grade piece as FedSpec grade is expensive overkill. This is better than good for extended duty-cycle home use. $90 on Amazon. Do it once, do it right and be secure in the knowledge you did so. Your clue is B00IPBMUKY. Cheers!*
Great video! I always use non-conductive fish tape, especially when working near live circuits. Many job sites require it.
That's a great idea! I'll be purchasing one
I thought you could not run ROMEX through conduit? Also I think you could use the conduit as your ground if it is metal.
You can 100% run Romex in conduit as long as it's not in a wet or damp location.
@@mr.g937 I guess it is just easier to run THHN wire...
Not an electrician, but if I recall correctly it is OK to run romex through conduit, but usually not a great idea to do so. The fill table ends up treating the normally oval romex as a cylinder, and you need some absurdly oversized conduit to not over-fill the EMT.
I can see why he'd do it for this install, to avoid putting conduit in the wall, but yeah, single conductors seem to be the way to go nearly every time conduit is involved.
@@mr.g937 yes but it need to be derated because it's already inside a pvc jacket which is made to be run free air.
@@ericfraser7543 much a easier to pull thhn, only a meatball would pull romex inside conduit.
I was able to install about 90 feet of 6/3 wire using your video as a reference guide and saved myself thousands of dollars. I just wanted to say thank you for the clear, and easy to understand video.
Anyone thinking about doing this project can absolutely do it, just don't cut corners. Make sure you get a commercial grade Outlet like he said in the beginning of the video, and based on what iv read it sounds like a cheap torque screwdriver will be helpful to make sure those terminals don't ever come lose and cause problems in the future.
Defining what constitutes a ‘professional’ is very subjective. While this gentleman has experience, he does not have the depth that is necessary to be called a ‘professional’, in my opinion. While his explanation may enable a DIY’er to accomplish this project, it’s certainly made more difficult by installing nonmetallic sheathed cable (Romex) in a raceway, EMT in this installation. I won’t begin to discuss the electrical code violations, of which there were a few. Most inexperienced people following these steps will most likely be very frustrated by the time they finish.
I'm going to disagree. Yes, I'd have worked on a dead box and, yes, I'd have pulled 6-3 through a 1" EMT. Otherwise? Didn't see any gross errors. Oh, Romex in EMT is OK in our jurisdiction. Every damn county is different.
@@ethelryan257 I’m curious why you would take the time to install EMT and then go to the expense and trouble of installing ‘Romex’ when individual wires would be so much simpler and less expensive.
And quite possibly badly injured or dead !!! No DIYer should try to do this the way he showed !!!
Tesla chargers only need 6/2. 6-50 plug and then 3/4” EMT fits fine. Also, I would use mc flex in the wall to the attic if possible and then just drop down EMT to charger. Looks really clean
1. You didn't use a GFCI breaker, which is required by code. 2. You didn't torque either the breaker or receptacle. Very important for constant, high ampacity loads to reduce overheating and fires. 3. You used an LB, which is not listed for what you used it for. A proper junction box would have been code. 4. The cover should have been an industrial raised, not a mud ring and flush mount plate. 5. The use of romex in conduit isn't done by professionals, but many DIYers who don't know any better, do. Never have understood the urge for those unqualified to make videos when they are really not qualified.
money
guy got 2.1 million views for having no idea what he is doing
connect blck to blck white to white,
any monkey could do thus, but to actually understand it is a diff story
Why do you use 6/3 romex rather than individual conductors? It seems like individual wires would have been much easier to pull and to make the bend in the L-box.
Great video and excellent information. Thanks.
that's one of the errors. you aren't supposed to run ROMEX through conduit.
Folks, 1 neutral wire per connection point. DO NOT share the screw position. 1 neutral. 2 grounds.
After the 1st point of disconnect, you must separate the neutrals from the grounds. (typically a sub panel).
If this is being inspected (which it probably isn't going to be) don't let an inspector see a ground and neutral on one screw or 2 neutrals.
Also, not exactly necessary, but ground the receptacle box with a pigtail. The emt/box/recep all bonds back to the panel, but it is good practice to also bond the box by using a copper crimp to a pigtail and then to the receptacle. Old schoolers will tell you don't bother, you tell them to f off.
Would the potential hazard of an ungrounded recep. box be if it were ever to be energized due to a short to the hot somehow, then potentially someone could make contact with the box and get zooted? So if the recep box is grounded, if it ever gets energized by the hot wire fraying and making contact with it, what happens? Does it just cause the circuit breaker to trip? What if it's only a tiny little fray wire and it doesn't cause a massive current draw? could it potentially cause localized heating of a wooden stud and fire? please fill me in im curious as grounds were never really explained all that well as to how they actually worked to provide safety, other than tripping a GFCI on a bathroom circuit or something, but what about circuits without GFCI on them?
@@localbroadcast Obligatory "I am not an electrician". There is quite possibly some nuance I've missed, but the broad strokes should be reliable.
Yes, that's the main reason for any and all metalwork enclosing high voltage electrical wiring to be grounded and or bonded - if any part of that exposed metalwork comes into contact with a live conductor, the breaker will trip from overcurrent (or any other present protections such as Arc Fault or Ground Fault protections if present on the breaker and applicable to the specific fault), thus preventing the metalwork from *staying* live for more than a split second and simultaneously drawing attention to the fault by preventing the circuit from working (live exposed metal will eventually zap *someone*, it's just a matter of time) . The only worse case scenario than silently live exposed metal is an actual fire.
As to the other part of the question, that's an important reason to take the grounding connections every bit as seriously as the live ones: So long as the grounding connection is made properly and in good condition, the impedance and resistance of that path will be extremely low - hence any ground fault from a live conductor will cause a *massive* amount of current to flow. This ensures that the breaker trips immediately, before significant heating of the branch wiring can occur. If you have a high-resistance connection, that connection will heat up. If it's high resistance *enough* to prevent a breaker trip, it could indeed potentially create a fire - though I would think that that happens a lot more commonly on loose connections on the live and neutral conductors since you'd have a load completing the circuit instead of a short circuit, meaning the circuit resistance and impedance are added to the load, so you don't have a massive current flow but still have heating at the poor connection. If you have a tiny strand of live wire contacting a ground, you've still got a low-resistance and low-impedance path for current to flow on 99% of that circuit, and maybe a couple ohms at absolute most between the tiny strand and whatever it's touching.... that strand of wire just became a fuse. Either the strand blows clear, the breaker pops, or both in the vast, vast majority of cases. Even a 5 ohm resistance on a short circuit at 120V will draw 24A for 2.88Kw of heat produced at the fault - if your strand is tiny enough and badly connected enough to create 5 ohms, it definitely can't handle nearly 3000 watts of heat without melting clear in extremely short order.
In the electrical trade it is very hard to give absolutes because each piece is designed for its own special use.
Generally, one screw-one wire.
Breakers use heat, magnetism, or electronics to detect the current draw and open the breaker. A short circuit, like cutting a cable a cable with wire cutters can result in currents near 5,000 amps in that small instant of time the breaker takes to trip.. Yes, even #14 wire nears 5,000 amps. (Electrical welding of the cutters or burning some steel away.)
GFCI's use electronic circuits to detect the current going out and coming back through the gcfi. When the difference gets to about 5 mAmps,, it trips to prevent current from going through the gfci and down an unknown path. This should protect people and equipment.
Because their functions are different, someone cutting a live cable down stream (a load on gfci) will not trip the gfci, the breaker will. Most gfci's will then trip on "no power" and require they be reset also, after the breaker is re-shut, after power is restored.
In a normal scenario when the box is grounded, any connection with the hot wire will again cause thousands of amps to shoot through the breaker and trip it.(should it get only close enough to arc, a standard breaker may not open, thus AFCI breakers.)
The nec still lists emt conduit as an acceptable equipment ground. However, in this case, the conduit does not run back to the panel and would not be effective as a ground.
Now things get interesting. The nec does allow grounding of the box by connecting the equipment ground to the recepticle and that connection through the mounting metal strap creates an effective ground path.
Hope this gets your question answered. If not, let me know. Maybe a different explanation can be given.
@@keithharrington8715 if someone cuts Romex, chances are they'll hit ground before they hit neutral if cutting front the hot side first. This means some current going back on ground. If it's GFCI protected in that spot, it'll pop the GFCI. Which is why I like GFCI breakers at times.
@@adamplummer2190 I would like to exqmine what you are saying here.
First, the NEC requires rounds ND neutrals be eectrically connected at the first means of disconnect for the service (main panel) ......making them about electrically the same.
Now, let's try n some numbers.....
14 awg wire has a resistance of about 2.5 ohms per every though and feet. So a 50 foot run (out + back) should have a resistance of about (100 ft) or 0.5 ohms. So, our circuit resistance from the breaker to the cut spot is about one half ohm. Say zero for the gfci and the wire cutters are also zero.
So our total circuit resistance is 0.5 ohms when the cutter hit metal.
Current is. I=E/R
I = 12 vac / 0.5 ohm.
I = 240 amps seen on your 15 amp breaker protecting the gfic.
Since both the breaker and the gfci both see this value at the exqct same time.....I do not think it matters which one trips first. I know the gfci will trip on a loss of power when the breaker trips.
Now, I did the simple math here.....no impedance or vectors for the AC voltage, got the ohm value in Google, and used rms voltage not peak to peak.
If you find a problem or error I made please let me know.
If you need code sections let me know. Ch 9 table 8 might have a slightly different number, I was lazy wit Google.
Again, I calculate over 200 amps through your 15 amp breaker the instant the cutters hit copper.
In general your main panel the grounds and neutrals are bonded - if a sub panel they must be separated. In a house there is only ONE location (at the main panel) where neutrals and ground are connected together and attached to a grounding electrode (like a ground rod)
Something that jumped out 4 me is isn't the ground wire at the receptacle supposed to be attached to the metal box?!
Wrong cover at plug in. That's for a finished wall application. A raised cover is supposed to be used. That breaker should have been shut off for sure.
Why are you pulling romex through EMT. I never pull romex through EMT.
There are old electricians and their are bold electricians. Not too many old and bold electricians. I don't work on live distribution boxes if I can possibly avoid it. Being a woman, I don't have to compensate for 'shortcomings' by taking unnecessary risks.
Great video, cute sparky. I believe 3/4" conduit is too small for current code on #6, I'd have gone up to 1" and lube is your friend.
I’m trying to figure out why he ran 6-3 through conduit - couldn’t he have saved a lot of time and money by running individual THHN/THWN wires? Isn’t the shielding of the 6-3 overkill? And as you mentioned - doesn’t he want to use 1 inch conduit based on the fill space of the 6-3? What am I missing?
Yea fiberglass fish tape for me I used 32 mm 1 and 1/4 in 12th of a kings foot measurements and put in a draw wire for possible additional wiring without ripping it all out or running alongside a few dollars up front 100s saved later.
Jesus Christ! I’m smart, but you’re way over my level! Gonna call an electrician to do mine! I bet the owner is off downing some brews!!!!😂😂
The way these videos are coming leads me to believe you are working as an apprentice electrician and posting what you learned that day or week
DIY audience.
It's a code violation to pull Romex through conduit you have to use number 6 THHN and a number 10 ground wire I am also a Tesla installer for the last 6 years and I can't believe that the supervisors have let this guy do unsatisfactory non code compliant work on Tesla installations he has violated too many code regulations. He should have pulled the number 6/3 Romex up into a Four square deep or 11/16 J box instead of using an llr.
I've been a IBEW Union contractor for over 26 years and a licensed contractor at State of California for 37 years this guy has probably less than three years experience and I wouldn't have hired him more than the first week before I let him go
Glad somebody said it. I’m only a 2nd year apprentice and watching this gave me anxiety.
Being a member of the Union is actually a privilege the quality of educational material available to all apprentices and even through journeyman level is outstanding every year you can sign up for new classes to keep your informative educational experience at top-notch capabilities far surpassing non-union
No it’s not.
This is not a certified tesla installer. This is just someone installing a 50 amp outlet for an ev to charge on. So this is not a tesla install or installer
Man! He’s got to stop licking those 240 volt hot wires!😃😃😃
Pro tip, they make fiberglass fish tapes.
43:18 really?!? What an enormous ego, it’ll cost you your life one day.
Looks good, one thing, you could’ve used a j box and just put an extension then ran you’re conduit. Again 1000 ways to skin a cat but i think that would have made it easier for your install. 2. Your box or conduit isn’t grounded, you would need to ground the box with a pigtail in the case for whatever reason the box became energized you want a path to ground.
You should not be doing electrical work. Your going to get someone hurt bad. Working in a hot panel should only be done by a qualified electrician, when the power cannot be shut off, using a fiberglass non - conductive fish tape and the proper PPE. You do not have any PPE. OH YOU PROBABLY DONT KNOW WHAT THAT IS. No safety glasses no gloves. You are an accident waiting to happen.
You should use the fiberglass fisher tool to guide the wires on live panel... thank you
l have been reading all l could on how to get this done. Just by watching this video , gives my food for though.
As a union electrician western suburbs of Chicago this is nuts. First off go to Harbor Freight and buy a cheap fish stick set. Next is location dependent . We don't use rope a dope here everything is emt. For all the work you did fishing that wall it would have been faster to make a nice easy offset out the top of the panel and surface mount the whole thing. A little drywall patch and your done. The romex through the pipe was crazy, just buy some wire and push it . I'm not sure if that is even code. I like the idea of EV cars and I know people are shocked (no pun intended) at the cost of 240 install but some things regular folk just shouldn't mess with. Just last month I got tagged doing a friend a favor, Who knew this guys father 40 years ago switched the white wires for the basement lights. Again this was emt and thhn wire. My fault for not tick testing first.
Thank you, im from Chicago as well and I thought I was going crazy for telling him to just cut the damn drywall and make the full conduit connection from the beginning to the end. Drywall and some patch work isnt that hard. This is the lazy way to do it and not to code (maybe in his area but not everywhere thats for sure). Disliked video for the lazy work.
rob m knows whats up
I was taught to wire to the breaker first, then install the breaker in the panel with the wires already. Is there some reason I'm not seeing to seat the breaker first and do the wiring in the more constrained space?
I was taught the same
That can work well on smaller gauge wire like 12 and 10 but i would try to do anything larger with the breaker on the bus bar already to make it easier to give the wire some memory bends to make it look as good as possible but if I’m working inside a very cluttered panel that I just cannot get the wire on the breaker easily I pull the breaker off
You would have been taught in correctly than
Always last thing is breaker and then test
I had 240v. outlet installed (NEMA 14-50). Need 3#6W+G (same as shown on you tube here) For Tesla. Once it is done it had about 30miles/hr. charge with 32/32Amp running.
Then I installed Tesla NEW Wall connector inside garage. Require NO neutral. 2#4+G (No neutral). Wiring is much easier than outlet. Just pull wire from panel and passing thru back of base of wall connector (no wire cut). Loop to connect to base terminal. then snap wall connector into base and done. Speed is much faster 45 Miles/hr (48/48A) . Much easier than NEMA 14-50 outlet.
It worth money to install TESLA wall connector instead of NEMA 14-50 (assume you have TESLA)
When working in a live panel with or without a fish tape ( finer glass ) I always
Cover with cardboard . In this case I would push the card board in on the top right
in case I let locknut fall - If would slide out onto the floor . I also squirt some lube in
end of the EMT as I install - much easier to pull on long runs and around bends.
Not bad advice, thanks for the feedback
Make sure you use that safety cardboard.
Whoa, why not transition to THHN instead of trying to pull Romex through conduit?
That was going to be one of my questions.
because hes a "Pro"? ....
So it can go behind the drywall.
Yeah, not necessarily illegal, but man there were better choices. I get that he was trying to use materials readily available to the homeowner. But as someone else already pointed out, 6 feet of FMC from the condulet to the panel, and then just install three (3) #8 + (1) #10G (also readily available at the homecenter) and you have a much better installation.
Romex is not meant to be used in a conduit like that, it gets hotter than it should. Using THHN would be the right way to do this. You'd think a pro would know that stuff.
Aren't you supposed to ground the wall box?
He should've grounded the box by wrapping the ground wire around an actual green screw in the back of the box. Those boxes are designed for that screw with a raised hump. Using the outlet as the ground link is not sufficient to ground the box and conduit run.
You don't have to ground the box if you use a self grounding receptacle. Just about all of them are self grounding these days. They have a little steel wire which crosses the screw tab on the receptacle which ensures a solid ground connection to the box. Believe it or not, according to NEC 2020, EMT is considered an acceptable ground path, so a separate ground wire isn't even required. It's just common and good practice to have one. He couldn't have done that in this scenario though because the conduit isn't continuous.
@@Joe-by8jh what code are you referring to? According to 250.146(B) the screws in the receptacle yoke are suitable to establish a bond between the receptacle and the box, therefore grounding the box.
(B) Contact Devices or Yokes. Contact devices or yokes designed and listed as self-grounding shall be permitted in conjunction with the supporting screws to establish the grounding circuit between the device yoke and flush-type boxes.
@@dr.cupcakes626 The language reads: "shall be permitted to ground the receptacle to the box". You can use the self-grounding yokes to ground the receptacle to the box, but not the other way around. I don't know an inspector that would allow the receptacle itself to be the only ground link on a conduit assembly. It's just sloppy and bad practice. If the conduit ran all the way to the panel, it'd be another story.
@@bnasty267 That's not what it says. It says word for word "shall be permitted in conjuction with the supporting screws to establish the grounding circuit between the device yoke and flush-type boxes." grounding the box to the receptacle or the receptacle to the box makes no difference as far as grounding goes, it's all bonded together. You're right though, removing the receptacle would effectively unground a noncontinuous conduit run. But I can't find any language in the NEC that prohibits this. Correct me if I'm wrongm
@@dr.cupcakes626 I agree that the NEC is unclear here. However, most inspections I've done are at the rough-in stage, where the receptacle is not installed yet. This install wouldn't have a ground, and would fail. I doubt you'd be able to argue the technicality, and honestly, why would you? You have a EGC available, a dimple on the box ready for a ground screw, and conduit that isn't grounded elsewhere. This is definitely one of those things where it's super easy/free to not piss off the inspector, and that's what ultimately matters, even if you ignore the safety aspects.
One think I never do is run a metal fish in a live panel. Having been in a arc flash myself and seen others you learn. I see someone said they done it a thousand times. He has been lucky and maybe 1001 will make him smarter. Rest of the video was good but also agree you need to jumper your ground wire to the box.
Circuit Breaker, I have done it many times, but I'm a pro.
@john alt yes indeed you may think you're a pro but accidents do happen. For an instructional video it should of been a fiber glass or nylon snake and or the metal snake should of been tape up at least 8FT but that's bit annoying to do. There is so many OSHA rules and safety we all have to follow in NY or other states.
Not a pro, but I don’t think you want to bond neutral to earth on sub panels. Only one bond per building.
I was going to said that too, they sell some fiberglass fish rods that are great for that , since you know when those metal fish tapes move aré incontrolable, the rest I have no complaint
Ohh yeah I forgot the receptacle box needs a # 10 pigtail and spliced and get another pigtail for the receptacle. Also an industrial cover would look better since is surface mounted
Ok I just decided screw the EV. IM keepin my fossil burner! 💤💤💤
One correction - NEC 625.54 require that EV charging receptacles be GFCI protected so you should have used a GFCI breaker. (garage receptacles are required to be GFCI protected as well.)
Good point, missed that one
So the ev is going to be pulling 40 amp max because. Nec 625.41 this is a continuos load
40x1.25= 50 amp current protection.
Can I use a 60 amp breaker instead of 50?
The tesla wall charger and others are GFCI PROTECTED INSIDE THE CHARGER SO YOU DONT NEED GFCI BRAKER BUT LIKE THE 14-50 AND 6-50 ARE NOT GFCI PROTECTED YOU NEED A GFCI BREAKER.
@@alexmckay5447 what kind of charger are you installing?
GFCI breaker required for EV chargers
GFCI breaker required for all garage receptacles
GFCI breaker required for garage receptacles, not required for hardwired EVSE, which is arguable one of the biggest reasons to use a hardwired EVSE. The EVSE has ground fault circuitry and putting it on a GFCI breaker can cause nuisance tripping. Hardwired EVSE also would have alleviated the need for a neutral conductor.
*No wire was harmed in the making of this video LOL
IT WOULD'VE BEEN MUCH EASIER IF YOU WOULD HAVE USE THHN WIRE. YOU WOULD'HD INSTALLED THE COMPLETE RACEWAY THEN PULLED THE WIRE THROUGH WITHOUT HAVING TO REMOVE THE LB AND 90°, BUT YOU'RE A PRO I GUESS.
Why wasn’t the copper wire in the box not grounded to the four inch box?
Some good information...I guess. I would never pull NM through conduit. Code or no code. To keep it clean above the panel I would use a 411 box. It is ok to make joints with wires. I know some will cry that it is a potential trouble spot but not if you do it properly. NM in wall then THHN in the conduit. The condulet at the top of the wall is more work than is necessary. Well made video! I like the effort the young man made to explain things to DIYers.
You didnt ground the box
According to NEC 2023 358.60 Grounding. “EMT shall be permitted as an equipment grounding conductor.” The EMT locknutted to the metal box and the physical contact they make ensure mechanical ground.
I'm not a fan of putting Romex in conduit. I have NEVER seen professional electricians do that. I would run individual THHN wires in the conduit. Then, set a larger junction box above the load center and run a short length of Romex down the wall. Also, I'd like to see a direct ground wire on the new box where the car charger will plug-in. Remember, the most important wire in your circuit is the ground wire. Regarding fish tape, use a plastic fish tape, less risk of touching live circuits. Having said that, I've gone back to the Internal Combustion Engine.
It seems like the way it is Demonstrated would be more stable under 40 to 50 amp use. With electric cars ( especially Teslas) if you split the ground you ( may) get an error code and the car will limit you to 15 to 20 amps.
That method would cost more as THHN only comes in large spools. Plus you have more JOINTs or connection points for the wire to pass electricity through.
@@craigslaunwhite579 supply houses will give you any cut of wire and length you need
OK! I quit! Looks like I’m gonna use PVC! 😅
Genuinely curious why you would use romex in EMT?
Real electricians don't only hacks on RUclips
Hubble also makes the Bryant 14-50 Nema receptacle. The Hubble cost $135 on Amazon and the Bryant cost $46 at Grainger(Model: 9450FR). Exact same product, both made by Hubble.
Fantastic tutorial ! I learned a lot, took many many notes. Stopped , replayed , restarted so many times I lost count . I didn't want to miss anything. I spent over 2 hours watching the 48 min. video , couldn't get enough. Thank you very much. I will be assisting my brother who is an electrician in installing an electric car charging station in my house and I didn't want to look like a dope. And thanks for NOT having any loud distracting music in the background as so many other You Tubers do.
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Extremely well presented but regretful as can be, advocating hot work before DIY homeowners. We can make only one big mistake in this business.
Thanks for the feedback Howard.
Attaching the power wires to the unattached breaker, and then snapping the breaker into the box, is a slightly easier way to proceed. Anyway thanks for doing it LIVE! (Ha ha ha)🙂
The one thing you failed to do was to ground your electrical box where the outlet is at. Yes I know it will be going around the bracket at the plug which provides a ground. And it grounds the Box. But when you remove the plug the Box becomes ungrounded. Without a connected ground connection. So always ground your electrical box when it made of metal.
Pro ? You do clean work but missed couple things:
- the tesla charger says not to use a GFCI breaker, but some other manufacturers do.
- you CAN NOT ( and should not ) pull a romex through conduit. Why? The wires get hotter when in romex sheathing and in side conduit. Especially after you kept repeating that its a continuous load.
- steel fish steel through live panel ? Please don't. I've been in the trade 20 years. Do I do it ? Yes. But I I'm making a how to video use a fiber glass fish.
- if you want it to look like a real pro install : don't use the 90° elbows , just conduit.
- not sure why you use a mud ring
- and, some jurisdictions do not allow the conduit to be used as a ground, so need to pull a ground wire, and use a ground tail in the 4" box.
We were thing the same things . Fiber glass fish tape less chance of sparking any thing but to each there own he made it work. And I know nec code disagrees with putting Romex cable in pipes .good point yea any thing 3-4 hrs or more is a continuous load so def a no no especially in a garage that doesn’t have AC or climate control to keep the room temp regulated .as far as using 90* elbo on pipe well it may not look the best but I will give him points he’s doing this to teach DIY ppl how to do it. Most of them won’t know how to use a pipe binder let alone know how to subtract the correct amount off the 90* bend when bending pipe so for that it makes since to show prefab 90’s you can buy at store.
These outlets are also terrific for powering large single phase air compressors and welders, and rotary phase converters to run things like used three phase industrial air compressors, welders etc depending on size. DIYers with patience can wallow in quality used industrial equipment for same or less money than consumer crap but having that large single phase outlet (or more than one since parts are cheap and you're in there anyway!) is key. I even added them to my rented house (with landlord permission, he was also my best friend) and took them when I moved.
Look into the many products including cords, splitters and other hardware used to power RVs from these outlets. I promise it will be useful info if you DIY.
Related note re: "cool stuff powered by outlets": I put my horizontal tank compressors and my welders on dollies I fabbed to use scaffolding casters (which just slide into a tube and are magnificent, get the round shank style) for easy handling. If you rent and put everything heavy on wheels the rest of your life gets impressively easier. You eventually need to move most of your stuff so if you make that low effort in the beginning you never sweat again.
Guys and gals listen to this man when he says "buy an industrial rated outlet" buy a hubbel not the cheap 12 dollar one from.big box!!! Those are good for dryers and such not a constant 50 amp draw for hours! I know the hubbel is 50 bucks more but I've seen my welders melt the cheap ones and your EV is drawing more then my welders and for longer. Don't die in your sleep over 50 bucks.
Excellent video
This should really be pinned. I'm surprised they installed an Amazon speical crap-o 5000. Hubble or bust.
Excellent video, I didn't imagine myself watching this in one sitting but Joel's calm teaching style and work flow is mesmerizing to watch. Thanks so much for the collaboration, Scott and Joel! You guys both put out quality, well-articulated content. Also subscribed to Joel!
Metal in a hot panel..... NO!!! WORST MISTAKE
He has leadership tone and patience something I really like to embrace with my crew . Win win .
I also felt this video was very informative. I pretty much ignore the "let me see what I can criticize" people. 😅 If they posted a video, there's be others criticizing their procedures, have not doubt.
“mesmerizing”? I was waiting for the spark and lights out when he was letting that fish tape just flip around in the panel. 😬
This guy is a hack electrician, die cast coupling, steel connector, mixing type of connectors, WRONG next it’s a 3/8” offset not 1/2” offset. If this guy new his sheet he wouldn’t run 6/3 romex through an LB, ROMEX IN A CONDUIT IS ALSO WRONG, DIY just have the guy at HD cut individual wire to your length, 40’ feet of conduit eguals 3- 46’ of #6 and 46’ of #10 green, individual wire is more cost effective than romex
Why didn't you ground the box at the receptacle end?
As a handyman when I pull any cable using the ground wire, I cut the conductors (Black/Red/White) so they are staggered (different lengths) before taping them to the snake. This gives them a more gradual entry into the conduit.
As a handyman you shouldn't be pulling any wires in anything unless it's your own house. As a licensed electrician I'm constantly fixing handyman specials. You may be the exception to the rule but generally handyman think they know but don't know Jack. Codes updated every 3 years and it's a four-year apprenticeship just to get a journeyman license. Electricity is no joke and should be taken very seriously poor jobs can risk people's lives and safety not to mention property damage. Anybody can pull wire through a piece of conduit but do they know how to derate ,do they know how to do load calculations do they know how to make sure the breakers the right size to protect the wire? there are so many factors that one wouldn't think about.
@@rogerdodger5886 your smart 😢
Nice video. I would use safety glasses, especially working in a live electrical panel. Secondly, I would use an insulated fish tape while in a live panel.
Thanks for the feedback Bill
Wrong faceplate, overall a good video
Very good video & illustration of this electric installation. The pros were able to identify several areas that need to be considered with this electric project to meet a safe NEC installation. Also, when working in or around energized equipment, OSHA, mandates PPE equipment to be worn for added safety. Always best to de-energize equipment when working in or around electric equipment. Otherwise, a very educational video!
You're right! Safety hasn't been my strong suite (neither has spelling 🙂)
You / he should've used 1. a bigger conduit 2. Use Lubericant and yes 3. The LB instead of the LLR. No point in shoving and fighting with the 6/3 Romex in 3/4 conduit.
I think those are all valid points. Especially if you don’t have a helping hand 👍
Pretty sure he admitted all of those in the video...
He is not supposed to run romex, and does not need a ground wire with metal conduit.
@@ericfraser7543 First part is wrong, second one is bad practice. One EMT fitting goes loose and your ground is broken. Every quality electrician I know will run a dedicated ground.
@@ericfraser7543 you may not be correct, but thank you for raising those points for others to comment on.
1. When working in a panel, WEAR GLOVES. 2. Bend the conduit instead of using a premade 90 for a cleaner look, it really is easy. 3. Use a box out of the wall and transition to individual wires in the conduit...MUCH easier pull. 4. Use pull lubricant and 5. Use an insulated screwdriver in a live panel. ALL IMHO.
I love when videos are so detailed and well done. It gives all the steps and details you need to realize you need to hire a professional.
I had a pro install my charger. I cried a little when I had to pay. But it was installed and it is right and years later never a problem.
This was detailed, but there were still some important points left out and this won't pass inspection.
@@nilpowhat specifically wouldn't pass inspection? And where(country/state)?
@@AJ-ri5ee North America. Specifically in the US it won't pass NFPA 70. Pretty sure it doesn't pass in Canada either.
@@nilpoOk, but what part?
You generally aren't supposed to run cables through conduit, just individual conductors. That's why it was so hard to pull. Should've installed a J box above the panel, brought the Romex from the panel to that J box, then transitioned to the EMT, with THHN conductors. Then make sure there are grounding/bonding pigtails on the boxes. Or just cut the wall open and run the EMT the whole way and patch it after. Lastly, it's 240 volts, not 220. There's no 110 or 220 in the USA, just 120VAC and 240VAC.
It's code compliant to put multi conductor cables in conduit if it's to protect it from damage.
Which code states that running NM cable through conduit is unacceptable? I have heard that myth repeated over and over, but I have yet to see any codes that substantiate that claim. But with that said, I suppose individual wires might be a bit easier/faster to pull and maybe a little cheaper.
@@averyalexander2303 It isn't against code but you have to size the conduit properly, adjust ampacity if necessary, and you cannot put the NM inside of a conduit if the conduit is outside. He struggled to run that cable through the conduit because it was too tight of a fit, then he didn't use lube, and he didn't properly bond/ground the EMT. To me there are several other better ways to have done this installation.
@@illestofdemall13 Makes sense, thanks for clarifying! As I said I agree that individual wires would have overall been a better method for this application.
@@averyalexander2303 The installer knows how to "make it work" but there are some key issues that he missed. If you are following the NEC and also doing the job safely, then there are several ways to do it. One big issue I see is having a piece of EMT used to protect the cable, but it isn't bonded/grounded to the ground of the cable that's coming from the panel and going to the charger receptacle. This could potentially be a shock hazard to the customer if there happened to be a ground fault inside of the conduit. He is only relying on the ground screw of the receptacle and the mounting screws of the receptacle yoke to complete electrical continuity of the ground.
Was the 4" junction box grounded with a ground screw?
You should have use an industrial raised cover instead of a 2 gang mud ring and cover plate. Also you forgot to bond the 4 square box and needs to be on a GFI breaker.
I'm not an electrician, but almost all, if not all, EVSE's (Electrict Vehicle Supply Equipment) AKA EV Chargers have a GFI breaker built into them. They actually recommend NOT using a GFI breaker.
@@rossm9200 all 120V and 240V receptacles in garages need gfci protection per 2020 NEC. Hardwired charger is a different story.
@@lars949 the latest NEC code states that, but many municipalities have not adopted the latest code yet. Plus GFCI for the EVSE will likely cause false trips. The best this is to hardwire the EVSE which will negate the need for GFCI breaker. My county still does not require GFCI in the garage outlets so I ran my NEMA 14-15 without it. I will however be converting to hard wired as I am adding a second EVSE with power sharing a\will put in a sub panel to avoid a second long run back to Amin panel or the need for a junction box to handle the splits. This will allow me to de-energize either EVSE individually.
@@hdtvkeith1604 agree hardwire doesn't need it but its been required for EV chargers since 2017 due to TIA 17-2
So correct to use the GFI breaker,also by code should be Thhn In conduit not romex.At least in Comnecticut
8:49 - Actually, a better part to use would be a cover with a 2.1" hole already in it. It mounts to the 4" square box, as well as the receptacle itself. Or, simply get a surface-mount 50A 4-wire range receptacle, and then you won't need any additional boxes as it's all contained in one unit.
He mentioned around 41:35 the mud ring is to get a bit of extra space in the box. Definitely agreed a proper cover would look cleaner; whoever wired up my house used the method shown in this video, and I can't say I'm a fan.
Can't find dimensions on the outlet he used, but Leviton's offering is right about 2" deep, cutting the dimensions a bit close.
A 3.5" box might have been better.
That's a great approach Jeff.
@@DonaldZiems A proper surface Cover ( Garvin) would provide the same extra depth. If needed a 4x4 extension box could be added for an additional 1.5 depth .
I never like flush mount device covers in a surface mount installation as the sharp corners exposed can cause problems or catch clothing if you brush up against the box.
Romex is illegal to run in pipe due to very high tempatures
Great communication however teaching homeowners to enter a live panel is unprofessional. Even liscensed electricians should be doing everything they can to work in a zero energy state and when there is no other option you should be wearing correct ppe. Also, you should not be putting Romex in conduit. I would never let my guys do this.
Dont you know everyone is diy now
dont need electricians, plumbers, hvac techs etc
its all basic skills a monkey could do
LOL
I agree, thesw channels are just grifting for money and content
there is a reason why we have professionals
diy is fine for someone who has at least some experience
but stuff lile this is a no go for people with no electrical experience
the dangers far exceed what is practical for a diy
Sorry, but I dont want my house burning down because some fool just followed a video in thw internet
Yeah, I feel like he could’ve minimized risk by shutting off the main breaker. Yeah the bottom part would still be live but it’s a lot less space that’s energized. Good tips on the cardboard and fiberglass fish rods. I’m gonna keep those in mind for my future projects.
Overall good video though, and was laid out well, and well presented.
You should always use an insulated screwdriver when working in a hot panel
Better yet,,,DON'T WORK IN A HOT PANEL>>>>>
What size of conduit are you using for 6/3 Romex wire? Can i use PVC conduit for 6/3 romex wire?
Using Romex in the conduit in this application is not ideal (against code in wet locations). I would recommend you get THHN wires cut to the length you need. In my area Home Depot sells THHN by the foot. You could use 3/4" schedule 40 conduit which will fit 4 x 6-gauge wires.
Great vid, thank you so much. Pro electrical engineering tip (Note: we often work in an EE lab with both low and high voltage open equipment with lots of possibility to create a short circuit with any metal objects that might get inside the equipment we are testing) : engineers must remove all conductive jewelry!
Very good advice! Years ago, an electrician friend of my parents died when a ring he was wearing touched a heavy load. Watching the guy in this video was giving me the heebee jeebees because it you get careless for just a split second you can get killed. Much better off to kill the power instead of yourself.
Awesome instructions! He was very thorough and I learned some things. And like a true electrician, he never mentioned cleaning up 😅
That's hilarious! I've tried to improve regarding specifying clean up in my vids 🙂
🤣 haha yasssssss
Not sure where you live but code says no romex inside a conduit. Should have put junction box instead of lb use seal tight or greenfield down to panel and pulled stranded thhn the whole way
What's the code reference? Under the NEC romex is allowed in conduit.
You know they make a non-conductive fish tape. I recommend using it. Also to make life easier you don’t have to have the insulation inside the EMT part of the run, makes the pull easier. And I would have used a ground screw in the junction box, although it is already mechanically grounded.
Is it? I don't think it is. He didn't use any conduit in the wall between the breaker box, and his first LL/LR conduit body near the ceiling. So, I don't think the terminal junction box is actually grounded. Just one big run of metal not connected to anything, which is a risk.
There are several things wrong here:
The conduit is too small for the cable
The conduit is not grounded
The conduit is supposed to be continuous before the conductors are installed
The box was not properly bonded
And someone is going to cut themselves on that cover
....and the Tesla will eventually ignite itself in your garage while you sleep. Fire extinguishers won't put out a lithium battery fire. Make sure to make another exit door in your house.
isn't the metal face of the ev plug connected (internaly) with the ground pin-screw, thus touching the metal box connects the whole conduit to ground? i find that to be the case but i don;t know about this one. not an electrician btw, just asking.
No Ground on the box!? Raco 813C face Plate for that box the face plate you have is for flush mount. You have surface mount. Not to code.
1. Turn off the service disconnect or the master breaker. LOCK and TAG it. Sure, you're in the same room, but what you're teaching is missing this crucial step. There's no need to "have the utility company pull the meter" when you can just turn off the service disconnect. It's right next to the meter. Red handle. Can't miss it.
2. Use a Magna-Pull or attach rare-earth magnets and pull the fish-tape through the wall using the magnet. Fishing for your fishtape using either another tape or long pliers when YOU KNOW FOR A FACT it's amidst other live wires is stupid. Stupid is what electrocuted people are. When you're teaching, teach to that level and you'll have it all covered.
3. Whether you're writing a resume or doing a presentation on wiring an outlet, the word you want is "use." You abuse the word utiilze far too much.
4. Oh, so you "discoverred a stud" where you wanted your NEMA receptacle. Poor planning. Bu hey, why not do the homeowner a favor and toenail the box to the stud? That's going to be a lot stronger for the daily plug/unplug than 3 drywall anchors and (I guess) one drywall screw.
5. Your LBs are lazy. You spend all the time working within their limitations and the end result is aesthetically ugly. Yeah, it takes a little more effort to cut drywall, put the conduit in the wall, restore the drywall, mud, patch, and paint. If you can't be bothered to do that you're another lazy handyman masquerading as a master electrician. What? "But it's just a garage?" The NEC and our sense of beauty don't stop at "the door to the magic room known as the garage."
Pretty sloppy. You got the electrics right, but that's the easy part. You messed up on safety, fishing, conduit planning, explanations of how YOUR slop isn't how it should always be done (see also about service loops - if you can leave one then do!)
If you'd done it right you'd have shaved off about $300 in conduit, connectors, and LBs. Attaching the receptacle to the stud would have been golden OR you could provide a NEMA 14-50 M-F so that the unplugging/plugging stresses out a $30 pigtail, not an installed recep.
You're badly out of date, and your safety skills are as well. Get your big boy chone's on, and see how it's done now, not in the 1970s.
E
To point #1, residential service in the US isn't required to have a separate service disconnect on existing installs (only new construction). There is usually nothing between the meter and the 200A (in this example) master breaker for a DIY-er to lock/tag.
Ground should be attached to the metal box and receptacle.
That's a pro tip
Isn't the box bonded to the receptacle ground via screws.
@@lciummo1 Box must be grounded independently of the receptacle.
Did I miss grounding the box?
You're an electrician? For real? Live panel? No lube? You stuffed all that spare lumex in the wall? Wow.
NEC doesn't allow Romex in conduit in this application. At the very least you must De-rate the current carrying capacity.
Can you give NEC code section numbers for your comment?
Nec 335.15 (B) indicates that emt is an approved method for nm protection. Please make sure I read it correctly..
@@keithharrington4595 You are absolutely correct except it is 334.15 B. Here is the problem. That references where subject to physical damage. Now go to Article 300.4 that gives the situations where protection against physical damage exists. Which of the listed situations is this project noted? I’m thinking this project is not in any of the listed situations and is not installed within the NEC rules. ab diver seems to be correct, but did not tell us why.
The electrician should have placed the NM cable within the walls and ceiling, or run conduit the full length and used conductors, not NM cable.
There used to be length restrictions on NM in conduit, but somehow it got removed from NEC. Maybe they were too specific?
@@KevinCoop1 well sir, many ahj, require exposed wires in garages to be protected. That gets us back to 334.15.b.
Romex is freaking expensive!