Great Video. One thing to check You need to check breaker 1a,1b. The original wires were on breaker 1&3 (A&B). When you put in the tandem breaker you landed them both on A Phase 1a,1b. If it’s sharing the neutral on a network it needs to be on different phases so you don’t overload the neutral.
Great video! Your procedure of fishing the conduit up the wall is GOLD! No drywall work! Cord under the garage door is questionable if you were in a cold climate. Thanks for sharing your expertise!
No no no!!!! Your fishing of wires was totally backwards! You should have started the other way! Handlindling the wires coming into the box, your hands and fish and wires were extremely close to themain live wires!!
Thanks! That’s great to hear! I haven’t posted much “How to install” type content yet but this was a fun one! I’m definitely open to posting more videos like this ⚡️
This video is super helpful for understanding the EV charger installation process! I recently got mine installed by Johnson Electric and Controls in California, and they made it look just as smooth as this. Definitely a service worth checking out!
Awesome video! Very clear and easy to follow, thanks for explaining the entire process. I would love to apprentice under someone like you once I get into the apprenticeship! Keep it up and thanks for posting this quality content ✌️
Great video, Steven! Clear, great speed of explanation and clear on materials/tools used/needed. I'll save this video as reference. I'm a general/Handyman and I have wired in e few EV Charger receipts. Ive wired in many dryers(Yes electrical :). Thanks, for this video. Where did you purchase the Adjustable Pliers and the Strippers with Flat end?
This was a great video. You lucky your wife don’t mind the pipe. My didn’t want to see a pipe so I had to open up the wall and get my carpenter friend to put it back up
Thanks! I enjoyed the installing part but it was tricky setting up my camera and light for every shot 😂 I actually really considered doing that but I wanted to do “simpler” install for the video. That’s definitely the cleaner route to go though ⚡️🤘🏼⚡️
Guys, if you actually took the time to watch the video you would have an answer, he literally says, you can close the garage door no problem. 19 min 50 seconds. Thank you
Thanks, Chelsea!! I definitely intend to! I’ve been pretty busy working on a lot of behind the scenes stuff for Mad Electrician lately but am now getting back into the rhythm of creating more content again. Thanks for the encouragement and thanks for watching! ⚡️🤘🏼⚡️
i just joined the field 4 weeks ago and i want to find a great book for exam prep and training. im finding books on amazon but the reviews are all mixed and i struggle to find a book thats has good information. are there any training books that you recommend? i am in the residential field in the seattle area. thank you, your videos have taught me so much!
Great tutorial. Very clear and detailed. I didn't get what the role of the junction box is. Can't we run a wire straight from the panel to the charger?
@@b3arwithm3 The wires provided by the EVSE were too short to reach so they had to be extended, and the connections need to be in an accessible junction box-
Thank you for your very informative video. I gather you did this connection to charge your EV, OUTSIDE the garage. My newbie friend has a standard wall plug the electrician ran from the Dryer Circuit from inside the house when they build the new garage. I personally feel this upgrade was done on the cheap and charged top dollar. I warned my friend that the wires were getting too hot and to remove an extension cord and go right into the wall plug.
Late reply, but it should be #6 AWG wire. You can buy it as sheathed Romex where all the four wires are in a rubber sheathing, or you can buy the stranded wires individually but you have to make sure that you run them in conduit so they're protected. It's a lot safer to put them in metal conduit. Make sure you keep doing your research but hopefully this gives you a starting point. If you did need to know what size they are. Also, if anyone sees this and knows otherwise, please chip in
Is the top breaker not feeding a MWBC? That'd be two 15 amp circuits, same phase, with one neutral, potentially overloading the neutral. Could be remedied by putting it on the other tandem, though you should also have a handle-tie I think?
@@gargolart Handle ties are so the entire wire is dead. If you are running 12/3, which we can see that top breaker goes back to Romex with one white, a black, and a red, so it’s 12/3 or 14:3, and you have a MWBC, so two separate hot phases, and a common neutral, if you shut off one hot phase, current is still running on the neutral, and on the other hot, so it’s not safe to work on receptacles or switches on the “partially shut off phase”. We can see both phases were in use previously via a MWBC on a single Romex wire, and it was unsafely merged onto a single phase with a tandem breaker providing 15A on each hot, and a potential 30A (or 20/40A respectively for 12AWG), which can overload and overheat the neutral conductor. My understanding when moving circuits to tandems is you need to look at panel capacity, service capacity, and MWBC, and this video failed to look at the last.
Thanks so much for this. It will help me install ours when we pull the trigger on an EV. Question: I will need about 25 ft of cable length from the charger to the car because I can’t park close to the garage (slope/winter). Do I lose efficiency by having a longer charger cable ? Or should I run underground wire closer to the car parking location. And mount the charger outside ? Cheers mate 🥂
Regardless of where you mount the charger, the distance from the panel to the car is the same. The charger cable and the feed wire are typically the same gauge so it really doesn’t matter
I would prefer to have the holster and coiled cable mounted inside the garage. The way it's currently mounted it will interfere with the garage door when the charger is not in use, plus it's subject to weather and tampering. You could have mounted it on the front to eliminate garage door interference, but the weather and possible tampering issues would still exist, and it could be a bit unsightly. Mounting it inside means that you have to open the garage door to use it, but it's a better option imo since opening it is entering a code and pushing a button. The only other nitpick is that the conduit body is not really fastened where it enters the wall. A strap near that end could resolve that issue. Overall, it still looks pretty well done.
Sorry if this is a dumb question great video. Why don’t you just go all the way from the panel right up to the charger? Why do you have a splice in a junction box before the charger? Thanks for the help!
Probably because the hardwire from the charger is only 3ft so he had to connect to it somehow. Splices need to be in a box. Had he mounted the charger closer to the panel, he would’ve been able to connect directly to the breaker.
An advantage of hard-wiring vs using a charger w/ plug is that you need only run 3 wires - 2 hots and gnd, with no neutral since chargers don't need it. A 4-wire plug has a neutral terminal, though perhaps you could not wire it if only an EV charger would be using that plug, that would seem strange. Good for me since I have a 50 A 240 VAC wire to a former electric oven, so can re-purpose that long cable for future EV charging by terminating it in a box and continuing conduit to the nearby garage to a box for future hard-wiring. That cable had no neutral wire, which surprised me until I found typical, at least in the past, for large appliances like stoves and clothes dryers. A 2nd reason for not using a plugged charger is that the latest NEC code requires an outlet to have GFCI protection. A 3rd reason is that plugs can give resistance to melt and cause a fire. Re the video, I'm surprised your local code allows using a wire-nut to connect ground wires. I thought one had to twist the wires and use a copper crimp, though I've seen many youtubes wiring overhead lights where they use a Wago lever connector on the ground wires (to code?).
For the flexible metal conduit in the wall to the panel, don't you have to properly ground/bond it to the panel? Such as a grounding bushing or bonding locknut?
@@ldiamond3290code or not, it doesn't seem that good to rely on the weatherstripping of the door to accommodate the cable and try to maintain a seal. Hanging it inside would be ideal, or putting the whole charger installation itself behind the wall outside, if it's exclusively used for outside charging.
Thank you, very clear. If it were a new home and dry wall wasn't there yet, I presume you would not use conduit and just run the wires inside the wall?
Yes. Most places consider the wall as protection for the wires inside. I do not believe that is the case in Chicago and piping must be put inside the walls. PS. I am not in Chicago. A phone call to your local building inspectors can get you great information.
How would this install change if you were to mount the EVSE (charger) on the outside of the wall? I assume you'd probably want to run the liquid tight conduit through the wall but you'd also want to do something to prevent water getting into the wall. Thoughts? Also, do you have to change the ampacity or pick a different temp rating for that THHN while running in the liquid tight conduit?
The biggest restrictor on wire ampacity is often the temperature rating of the breaker terminals. NEC section110.14 indicates most breakers 100 amps or less are only rated at 60°c. Yes, THHN rating for 60°c. NEC section 310.15.(C).(1). In the 2023 code only requires us to lower the rating of the wire, the ampacity, the amount of current the wire can carry if you have 4 or more conductors inside a pipe or not properly spaced apart for 24 inches.
Is it possible to inform why you need to cut the wire and reconnect them with wire nuts inside a junction box ? why not just connect 3 long conduited-wires directly from the charger to the panel ?
Hello could you please let me know if we can use #6 white in place of #6 black? And will it be an overkill if we use all #6 thhn red, black and green wires ?
By code you are not to re-phase conductors unless they are 4awg or larger. 6awg and smaller should be color phased from manufacturer. You must buy colored conductors according to NEC.
No neutral required. 240 volt appliances like your dryer or stove need 120 volts normally to operate control equipment like timers. In this case, no neutral is required.
These conduits look like FMT or FLEXIBLE METAL TUBING Found in article 360 of the national electrical code. And LFNC. or LIQUID TIGHT FLEXIBLE NONMETALLIC CONDUIT. found in section 356 of the NEC.
Where im from. I would have pushed 6/3 through some flex and strapped it to the wall all pvc material ngl. Im not sure if its a requirement to use EMT. It being your house may have been the difference but that metal is more costly. We have done these, ( not related) and a bunch of interlock kits. Always used pvc conduit material and J boxes. Damn we low budget asf, we just use a utility knife to cut the flex 😂
I am considering a Honda Prologue. My panel is at the front of my garage about where you put your charger so it would be right next to the panel. Can the wires from the charger be wired directly to the breaker in the panel? My panel is flush like yours.
Yes, you can use those wires. I will encourage you get a pro involved as the national electrical code has many rules and a separate section just for this. The biggest thing he did not mention is a load calculation for the wires yes, wires have limits and the wires from the utility to your house can be overloaded. A load calculation will make sure this is not the case.
@@keithharrington8715 I did get the Prologue. I ended up installing a ChargePoint hardwired version. I used 6/3 wire and set it for 40 amps on a 50 amp breaker just to be safe. The wire was only about three feet and could probably handle 48 amps on such a short run but I decided to err on the side of caution. It doesn't matter from a practical standpoint since it has plenty of time to charge overnight.
@shawnwinget2337 in this trade, it is not wise to expect something to "probably handle". This trade is all about fire prevention. Since most ev's charge overnight, I hat means stopping/preventing a fire when people are sleeping. You are good as #6 copper wire is rated for 55 amps at 60°c. In table 310.16 of the 2023 NEC. Yes, some insulation can have higher ratings, however, section 110.14., again 2023 NEC, indicates most breakers 100 amps or less require the use of the 60°c column because of their terminal temperature design. Some cables like nm or romex also restrict their use to the 60° c rating. Aluminum wire has different ratings and would violate these code rules. #6 aluminium only 40 amps @ 60° c. Requiring a maximum charge rate of 32 amps from the EV charging section 625 of the NEC
If the wire could run under door with no problem why didn't you install the holster inside garage and then when charging just plug in and holster protected
I know the Tesla Wall Connector specifically says NOT to use a GFCI. The reason is that it is already built into the car and an additional GFCI may cause problems.
i have 200amp panel with all 30 breakers used up. One company give me an estimate with your solution involving tandem breaker with about $1400 quote. Two others insist to install a subpanel next to it with $2700 to $3500. Now that i have seen your work i feel good that first solution is not really wrong. anyone know why two companies insist on new subpanel; one of them didn't even visit though he did work on my house 3 yrs ago. i am in dallas and google does not say that i need a permit but one company says that i need it very good video ❤
Don't be afraid to call your local inspectors and double check the permit thing. I am not there, however, needing an extra panel does not sound like it is required.
The conductors must also be sized at 125% since it’s a continuous load (nec 210.19(A)(1) so the wire needs to be rated for 60 amps as well as the ocpd. #6 is rated for up to 65A based on the 75 degree column (most likely what his breakers are rated for). A breaker should never be loaded more than 80% of its maximum rating which 48amps is 80% of 60.
Next time show/tell your viewers they should torque their lug points to the specified torque amount shown on the breaker. Also, why not just run continuous wire from the breaker to the charger and eliminate the wire nuts? Improper wire nut tightening will result in a big problem. You are just adding a fail point for no reason. Unless the charger did not allow you to open it and attach longer wires. Otherwise loved the video!
i would have left the cord inside the garage to prevent any damage to the cord and garage door as well as having anyone drive up your drive way for a free charge when no one is home. hope you put a disconnect later after this video. great video though
Straps are installed wrong. Screw holds the pipe up not the strap . Very important in commercial. Other than that I would’ve just used black taps/clear taps . Big blues no if it was my own house
It would that seem nearly US power pannels seem to have bare wires in them, electricians nead to carry a temporary plastic barrier plate to make it safer when working inside one.
He is part of Local union 46, so as an employee he makes 70$/H (140k) on the check + benefits (different retirement plans, medical, dental, vision...) Total package is around 97$/H.
This is my house. I didn’t explain it in this video but there was an existing gap in the corner of my garage door that the cable fits under without being squished. Not a great solution but it works fine in my situation.
Thanks! The wire nuts are fine and legal, but there is a better, probably more mechanically sound solution. I could have used small Polaris lugs. They take up a little bit more space but will never come undone. They are just more expensive and I didn’t have them on hand when making the video.
Definitely, they are compliant but with that load and length of time it is pulling a full load I would recomeend a type of crimp or mechanical connector.
It really just came down to the location. That and I also wanted to demonstrate an install that was a little more tricky in case other people were in a similar situation. I thought it might be a little more helpful ⚡️
I could have but it wouldn’t have been where I wanted the charger mounted and I also wanted my EMT to be ran down low so that it wasn’t taking up too much wall space. This was more work but I’m happier with the placement of everything.
Always use a regular hammer 🔨 to punch a hole. Not a hole saw or a screw driver. It can be easily patched once your finish....i suggest this method it takes a neat hole no dusk no debris.
@dubmob151 no I use a rock hammer 🔨 or take your time and do a quick punch with a regular hammer.....saves time.... Trace with hot patch when ready to mud...
I would have much rather done that but the internal terminations weren’t designed to be undone. I didn’t want to mess with the listing of the car charger either. Also, this was a video that I partnered with Legrand to make and I wanted to show how someone would do an installation the way that they designed it to be done. The best situation would be going right into the side or bottom of a surface mounted panel without needing to use any extra wire. That just didn’t work for my situation unfortunately.
@@MadElectricianwas the 18' a bit too short to mount the charger next to the panel and still be able to reach your car? Usually chargers seem to have longer 25’ cables, which would seem to have been able to make up the difference in the positioning. It'd be nice if manufacturers offered options on the cable length to let you fit it for your particular needs. Some might even find a short cable to work better and be more tidy, if they happen to have the charge port right next to the EVSE unit.
Current equals voltage / resistance. The same amount of current will pass through you touching a main lug as it would a regular outlet. Why are people so scared of panels
Good ol’ ohm’s law baby. A couple of reasons, though definitely not all: It’s very easy to make a mistake and touch a main lug working in an energized panel, especially for someone who isn’t very experienced. It would be easier to get hung up or be in an arc flash/ blast situation vs just by working on a regular outlet. There’s the potential of a phase to phase to short, resulting in a very high fault current. Etc. Thanks for watching!
It doesn’t affect the garage door at all. There’s unfortunatly a slight gap already in that corner so this fits right underneath without getting smashed.
@@surferdude642 It’s considered a continuous load (operating for minimum of 3 hours at max current). 48A x 1.25 (multiplier for continuous loads) = 60A.
@@MadElectrician Shouldn't the wire be 4 gauge then? Personally, I'd be more comfortable with a 50 amp breaker and from what I understand, no EV is going to draw close to that much current anyway.
@@MadElectricianI understand the 1.25 multiplier and how you arrived at the 60 amp breaker. I did some research and your charger I believe is rated for 48 amps and THWN wire is apparently rated for 65 amps, so you are correct. My concern is using wire nuts for this much current allowance. I would prefer using terminal blocks rated for 60 amps for the hot wires.
@@ldiamond3290 Shoot, I definitely misspoke 😅 Good catch! I think you’re the first person to point that out. I didn’t even catch that while editing this.
Most of the time my garage door is shut, and it’s rated to be installed indoor or outdoor. I don’t want to open my garage door every time I need to charge and any car I charge will be parked in the driveway.
@@MadElectrician depends on the area you live in, but the other option would be to install the EVSE unit on the outside wall, but that may not be good if there are enterprising people around that might think they want to try swiping a live unit wholesale. Maybe the manufacturer should implement a micro switch trigger for an alarm notification on tampering if this is actually a problem for people. Some of these units are pretty pricey, so I suppose it could be a lucrative market. The more sophisticated units using Wi-Fi access probably could be disabled and rendered inoperable to remove the theft market, like Ring with their doorbells. If they swipe it, it's useless, so they'll learn to stop stealing them, becoming a self correcting problem.
Great Video. One thing to check
You need to check breaker 1a,1b. The original wires were on breaker 1&3 (A&B). When you put in the tandem breaker you landed them both on A Phase 1a,1b. If it’s sharing the neutral on a network it needs to be on different phases so you don’t overload the neutral.
A new apprentice here how can you check the neutral ? Thanks in advance
@@enriquehamilton5693 you can see coming out of the romex that it only has one neutral. Therfore cant be on the same phase!
It’s literally single phase bruh.
Great video! Your procedure of fishing the conduit up the wall is GOLD! No drywall work!
Cord under the garage door is questionable if you were in a cold climate. Thanks for sharing your expertise!
No no no!!!! Your fishing of wires was totally backwards! You should have started the other way! Handlindling the wires coming into the box, your hands and fish and wires were extremely close to themain live wires!!
This was an awesome video, I really enjoy this type of content.
Thanks! That’s great to hear! I haven’t posted much “How to install” type content yet but this was a fun one! I’m definitely open to posting more videos like this ⚡️
post more service calls/home upgrade videos
Do you torque your connections at the panel?
I’m so motivated to become an electrician now.
This video is super helpful for understanding the EV charger installation process! I recently got mine installed by Johnson Electric and Controls in California, and they made it look just as smooth as this. Definitely a service worth checking out!
It is such a great and much detailed vid on how to. Thanks a lot. I think I am ready to install mine fir the new BMW i4. Happy holidays!
Wow.. fantastic video, smooth, crystal clear audio, very detailed step by step guide.
Awesome video! Very clear and easy to follow, thanks for explaining the entire process. I would love to apprentice under someone like you once I get into the apprenticeship! Keep it up and thanks for posting this quality content ✌️
Great video, Steven! Clear, great speed of explanation and clear on materials/tools used/needed. I'll save this video as reference. I'm a general/Handyman and I have wired in e few EV Charger receipts. Ive wired in many dryers(Yes electrical :). Thanks, for this video. Where did you purchase the Adjustable Pliers and the Strippers with Flat end?
Great Detailed, and nice clean work and very concise explanations . Much appreciated this. Thanks.
Nice video! Very detailed and thorough step by step .Thanks .
This was a great video. You lucky your wife don’t mind the pipe. My didn’t want to see a pipe so I had to open up the wall and get my carpenter friend to put it back up
Thanks! I enjoyed the installing part but it was tricky setting up my camera and light for every shot 😂 I actually really considered doing that but I wanted to do “simpler” install for the video. That’s definitely the cleaner route to go though ⚡️🤘🏼⚡️
How are you closing the garage door with the charger mounted on the outside of the garage?
Exactly what I was going to ask! Seems that is possible, but no one makes a video about it
That’s exactly what I was thinking.
He lives in a very safe area
No response to this question?
Guys, if you actually took the time to watch the video you would have an answer, he literally says, you can close the garage door no problem. 19 min 50 seconds. Thank you
Please please please upload more, LOVE your videos 😊
Thanks, Chelsea!!
I definitely intend to! I’ve been pretty busy working on a lot of behind the scenes stuff for Mad Electrician lately but am now getting back into the rhythm of creating more content again.
Thanks for the encouragement and thanks for watching! ⚡️🤘🏼⚡️
Very well done! I had to install two Tesla Wall connectors in my garage and the process is nearly identical. Thanks for the helpful video.
💯Safe and clean work🙏 👋Greetings from Orange City Florida 🐊
😎✌️
Thanks! I appreciate you taking the time to watch! ⚡️🤘🏼⚡️
i just joined the field 4 weeks ago and i want to find a great book for exam prep and training. im finding books on amazon but the reviews are all mixed and i struggle to find a book thats has good information. are there any training books that you recommend? i am in the residential field in the seattle area. thank you, your videos have taught me so much!
Great tutorial. Very clear and detailed. I didn't get what the role of the junction box is. Can't we run a wire straight from the panel to the charger?
@@b3arwithm3 The wires provided by the EVSE were too short to reach so they had to be extended, and the connections need to be in an accessible junction box-
@dubmob151 in that case, it would simpler and safer just to replace with longer wires and avoid the connection.
@@b3arwithm3 might be, if the manufacturer designed it to be swapped for longer wires.
Inside the charger, the wires are inserted in the circuit board. They aren't soldered to it. Taking them out is a matter of turning a screw.
@@b3arwithm3true, but most people would be uncomfortable taking it apart and replacing the factory wire
Thank you for your very informative video. I gather you did this connection to charge your EV, OUTSIDE the garage. My newbie friend has a standard wall plug the electrician ran from the Dryer Circuit from inside the house when they build the new garage. I personally feel this upgrade was done on the cheap and charged top dollar. I warned my friend that the wires were getting too hot and to remove an extension cord and go right into the wall plug.
Dude you're the Man! great vid.
Thanks!! Glad you enjoyed the video! ⚡️🤘🏼⚡️
What size of wires did you hardwire ,? What brand did you choose? What brand is the 60 amp breaker?
Late reply, but it should be #6 AWG wire. You can buy it as sheathed Romex where all the four wires are in a rubber sheathing, or you can buy the stranded wires individually but you have to make sure that you run them in conduit so they're protected. It's a lot safer to put them in metal conduit.
Make sure you keep doing your research but hopefully this gives you a starting point. If you did need to know what size they are. Also, if anyone sees this and knows otherwise, please chip in
Is the top breaker not feeding a MWBC? That'd be two 15 amp circuits, same phase, with one neutral, potentially overloading the neutral. Could be remedied by putting it on the other tandem, though you should also have a handle-tie I think?
How do you know they share a neutral?
Is the handle tie necessary even if the same circuit is connected to different fase?
@@gargolart Handle ties are so the entire wire is dead. If you are running 12/3, which we can see that top breaker goes back to Romex with one white, a black, and a red, so it’s 12/3 or 14:3, and you have a MWBC, so two separate hot phases, and a common neutral, if you shut off one hot phase, current is still running on the neutral, and on the other hot, so it’s not safe to work on receptacles or switches on the “partially shut off phase”.
We can see both phases were in use previously via a MWBC on a single Romex wire, and it was unsafely merged onto a single phase with a tandem breaker providing 15A on each hot, and a potential 30A (or 20/40A respectively for 12AWG), which can overload and overheat the neutral conductor.
My understanding when moving circuits to tandems is you need to look at panel capacity, service capacity, and MWBC, and this video failed to look at the last.
Why didn't you explain where the green wire is connected to? (Ground or neutral)😮
@lunar5577 Green is always ground. No neutral required for this charger.
Thanks so much for this. It will help me install ours when we pull the trigger on an EV. Question: I will need about 25 ft of cable length from the charger to the car because I can’t park close to the garage (slope/winter). Do I lose efficiency by having a longer charger cable ? Or should I run underground wire closer to the car parking location. And mount the charger outside ? Cheers mate 🥂
Regardless of where you mount the charger, the distance from the panel to the car is the same. The charger cable and the feed wire are typically the same gauge so it really doesn’t matter
@ thanks. Cheers
I would prefer to have the holster and coiled cable mounted inside the garage. The way it's currently mounted it will interfere with the garage door when the charger is not in use, plus it's subject to weather and tampering. You could have mounted it on the front to eliminate garage door interference, but the weather and possible tampering issues would still exist, and it could be a bit unsightly. Mounting it inside means that you have to open the garage door to use it, but it's a better option imo since opening it is entering a code and pushing a button. The only other nitpick is that the conduit body is not really fastened where it enters the wall. A strap near that end could resolve that issue. Overall, it still looks pretty well done.
👏👏👏 only issue i would have i imagine is my garage door would just open on it's own cuz there's resistance from the hose
#8 ground? Could have gotten away with a #10 just an fyi. Great video tho keep em coming.
Sorry if this is a dumb question great video. Why don’t you just go all the way from the panel right up to the charger? Why do you have a splice in a junction box before the charger? Thanks for the help!
Probably because the hardwire from the charger is only 3ft so he had to connect to it somehow. Splices need to be in a box. Had he mounted the charger closer to the panel, he would’ve been able to connect directly to the breaker.
Than pannel cover needs some paint. Thanks for the video. Great hack on the tandem 15amps
Great work. Very clean. But the charger rack for the cable? How do you close the garage 😮
An advantage of hard-wiring vs using a charger w/ plug is that you need only run 3 wires - 2 hots and gnd, with no neutral since chargers don't need it. A 4-wire plug has a neutral terminal, though perhaps you could not wire it if only an EV charger would be using that plug, that would seem strange. Good for me since I have a 50 A 240 VAC wire to a former electric oven, so can re-purpose that long cable for future EV charging by terminating it in a box and continuing conduit to the nearby garage to a box for future hard-wiring. That cable had no neutral wire, which surprised me until I found typical, at least in the past, for large appliances like stoves and clothes dryers. A 2nd reason for not using a plugged charger is that the latest NEC code requires an outlet to have GFCI protection. A 3rd reason is that plugs can give resistance to melt and cause a fire.
Re the video, I'm surprised your local code allows using a wire-nut to connect ground wires. I thought one had to twist the wires and use a copper crimp, though I've seen many youtubes wiring overhead lights where they use a Wago lever connector on the ground wires (to code?).
For the flexible metal conduit in the wall to the panel, don't you have to properly ground/bond it to the panel? Such as a grounding bushing or bonding locknut?
Wire need to be #4 or larger to require a grounding bushing
Curious if you have changed the location of the charging cord dock? All but that, and what James mentioned below I liked.
Good content but you were measuring voltage and saying amps?
Thanks! Which part are you referring to? When I was measuring voltage I was mentioning 240v between phases.
@@MadElectrician7:28
Btw passing the cable under the door is against code in most places.
@@ldiamond3290code or not, it doesn't seem that good to rely on the weatherstripping of the door to accommodate the cable and try to maintain a seal. Hanging it inside would be ideal, or putting the whole charger installation itself behind the wall outside, if it's exclusively used for outside charging.
Thank you, very clear. If it were a new home and dry wall wasn't there yet, I presume you would not use conduit and just run the wires inside the wall?
Yes. Most places consider the wall as protection for the wires inside. I do not believe that is the case in Chicago and piping must be put inside the walls.
PS. I am not in Chicago. A phone call to your local building inspectors can get you great information.
Can you please do a video on how to prepare for and take the state exam 🙏🏽
Great detail explained. Thank you brother
Glad you found this useful! Thanks for watching!
Great video.
It's easy to setup. If i have the toolkit i hope i can also do that 😅
Hey Steven I just applied for limited residential 2.5 and got a ranking of 382 is that good?
It's very helpful!Thank you!
Great job, keep up the good work
How would this install change if you were to mount the EVSE (charger) on the outside of the wall? I assume you'd probably want to run the liquid tight conduit through the wall but you'd also want to do something to prevent water getting into the wall. Thoughts? Also, do you have to change the ampacity or pick a different temp rating for that THHN while running in the liquid tight conduit?
The biggest restrictor on wire ampacity is often the temperature rating of the breaker terminals. NEC section110.14 indicates most breakers 100 amps or less are only rated at 60°c. Yes, THHN rating for 60°c.
NEC section 310.15.(C).(1). In the 2023 code only requires us to lower the rating of the wire, the ampacity, the amount of current the wire can carry if you have 4 or more conductors inside a pipe or not properly spaced apart for 24 inches.
Is it possible to inform why you need to cut the wire and reconnect them with wire nuts inside a junction box ? why not just connect 3 long conduited-wires directly from the charger to the panel ?
Craftsmanship superb makes me excited as an apprentice
Is it a bi directional charger.
Just curious why you chose to use fmc from the box to the lb instead of seal tight like you used from charger to the 4 11/16 box? Nice clean install.
More flexible than a seal tight
So, red and black are L1 and L2. Was green neutral or ground? If ground, why didn’t you ground the j-box?
Black - L1
Red - L2
White - Neutral
Green - Ground
I did bond the ground to the j-box 👍🏼
Sorry. I thought I only saw 3 wires in the video, and must have missed the grounding.
Definitely only seeing 3 wires. So that charger doesn’t need neutral.
Thank You for All that you are doing for our Planet Earth.... Peace.. Shalom.. Salam.. Namaste 🙏🏻 😊 🌈 ✌ ☮ ❤
What size is the liquid tight conduit and connector? Thanks.
I think he said it was 1-inch
Hello could you please let me know if we can use #6 white in place of #6 black? And will it be an overkill if we use all #6 thhn red, black and green wires ?
By code you are not to re-phase conductors unless they are 4awg or larger. 6awg and smaller should be color phased from manufacturer.
You must buy colored conductors according to NEC.
If that panel wasn’t bonded, where would you land the ground wire? Assume on ground bar. Would you then have to run a common too?
If this was a sub panel, then yes. The hot wires would be connected to the double pole breaker the same way and the breaker would be in the sub panel.
No neutral required.
240 volt appliances like your dryer or stove need 120 volts normally to operate control equipment like timers.
In this case, no neutral is required.
Good job sparkie
Thanks! ⚡️🤘🏼⚡️
rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
What kind of conduit is that flex conduit? I can't seem to find that exact kind at Home Depot.
These conduits look like
FMT or FLEXIBLE METAL TUBING Found in article 360 of the national electrical code.
And
LFNC. or LIQUID TIGHT FLEXIBLE NONMETALLIC CONDUIT. found in section 356 of the NEC.
Where im from. I would have pushed 6/3 through some flex and strapped it to the wall all pvc material ngl. Im not sure if its a requirement to use EMT. It being your house may have been the difference but that metal is more costly.
We have done these, ( not related) and a bunch of interlock kits. Always used pvc conduit material and J boxes. Damn we low budget asf, we just use a utility knife to cut the flex 😂
Nice, clean work.
GREAT VIDEO!! My only question is, how can you close your garage door?? LMAO!!
I am considering a Honda Prologue. My panel is at the front of my garage about where you put your charger so it would be right next to the panel. Can the wires from the charger be wired directly to the breaker in the panel? My panel is flush like yours.
Yes, you can use those wires. I will encourage you get a pro involved as the national electrical code has many rules and a separate section just for this.
The biggest thing he did not mention is a load calculation for the wires yes, wires have limits and the wires from the utility to your house can be overloaded. A load calculation will make sure this is not the case.
@@keithharrington8715 I did get the Prologue. I ended up installing a ChargePoint hardwired version. I used 6/3 wire and set it for 40 amps on a 50 amp breaker just to be safe. The wire was only about three feet and could probably handle 48 amps on such a short run but I decided to err on the side of caution. It doesn't matter from a practical standpoint since it has plenty of time to charge overnight.
@shawnwinget2337 in this trade, it is not wise to expect something to "probably handle". This trade is all about fire prevention. Since most ev's charge overnight, I hat means stopping/preventing a fire when people are sleeping.
You are good as #6 copper wire is rated for 55 amps at 60°c. In table 310.16 of the 2023 NEC.
Yes, some insulation can have higher ratings, however, section 110.14., again 2023 NEC, indicates most breakers 100 amps or less require the use of the 60°c column because of their terminal temperature design. Some cables like nm or romex also restrict their use to the 60° c rating.
Aluminum wire has different ratings and would violate these code rules. #6 aluminium only 40 amps @ 60° c. Requiring a maximum charge rate of 32 amps from the EV charging section 625 of the NEC
Great tutorial video, thanks
If the wire could run under door with no problem why didn't you install the holster inside garage and then when charging just plug in and holster protected
What state are you in????
A gfci breaker is not required?
Nope! I actually specifically asked my local inspector about that before doing this install and he said no.
I know the Tesla Wall Connector specifically says NOT to use a GFCI. The reason is that it is already built into the car and an additional GFCI may cause problems.
Awesome !!! 😃😃😃
i have 200amp panel with all 30 breakers used up. One company give me an estimate with your solution involving tandem breaker with about $1400 quote. Two others insist to install a subpanel next to it with $2700 to $3500. Now that i have seen your work i feel good that first solution is not really wrong. anyone know why two companies insist on new subpanel; one of them didn't even visit though he did work on my house 3 yrs ago.
i am in dallas and google does not say that i need a permit but one company says that i need it
very good video ❤
Don't be afraid to call your local inspectors and double check the permit thing.
I am not there, however, needing an extra panel does not sound like it is required.
Legendary video!!!
I’m glad you think so! Thanks for watching! ⚡️
@@MadElectrician one question I have though is how to call an inspector? Do they charge money ?
@@Dianfarida-g9nI'd expect so, since they work for money.
I thought when using the 48amp output on a 60amp breaker, you use #4 instead of #6 due to the 80% rule?
The conductors must also be sized at 125% since it’s a continuous load (nec 210.19(A)(1) so the wire needs to be rated for 60 amps as well as the ocpd. #6 is rated for up to 65A based on the 75 degree column (most likely what his breakers are rated for). A breaker should never be loaded more than 80% of its maximum rating which 48amps is 80% of 60.
Great video thank you
Is it ok to use Number 2 or 4 or it has to be number 6?
Very detail instructions. Good Job!
I've never seen anyone install a EV charging cable so close to a garage door. I would never consider that.
@@leonparsons13 At my house it was pretty much my only option unfortunatly. Also, my neighbor did the same thing because it was his only option too.
Great video. Thanks for sharing
Next time show/tell your viewers they should torque their lug points to the specified torque amount shown on the breaker. Also, why not just run continuous wire from the breaker to the charger and eliminate the wire nuts? Improper wire nut tightening will result in a big problem. You are just adding a fail point for no reason. Unless the charger did not allow you to open it and attach longer wires.
Otherwise loved the video!
Dirty, stained panel covers drive me crazy. You need some grey spray paint 🙂
i would have left the cord inside the garage to prevent any damage to the cord and garage door as well as having anyone drive up your drive way for a free charge when no one is home. hope you put a disconnect later after this video. great video though
Great video as usual. Evergreen content here!
Thanks! Just trying to make you proud, Jeff 🥹
doesn't that block your garage door?
Straps are installed wrong. Screw holds the pipe up not the strap . Very important in commercial. Other than that I would’ve just used black taps/clear taps . Big blues no if it was my own house
Are they normally only installed with one screw?
They should make a gard plate to protect you from the live wires.
Not sure why they don’t UK fuse boxes (the more modern ones) usually have a plastic cover for the incoming wires.
It would that seem nearly US power pannels seem to have bare wires in them, electricians nead to carry a temporary plastic barrier plate to make it safer when working inside one.
I appreciate your notation in the very beginning of the video saying that only certified electricians should be doing this. Thank you for that!
watch out with that multibranch circuit bro!!!!! You should kw that already (overload neutral)...... booooom
great video, hows the garage door gonna close if u have it in the way like that ?
Cut a 1½" slot in the garage door from about 4' to the ground. Piece of cake.
So how much do you make as an electrician
They typically charge $150-$200 per hour.
He is part of Local union 46, so as an employee he makes 70$/H (140k) on the check + benefits (different retirement plans, medical, dental, vision...) Total package is around 97$/H.
6:30 just gotta be carful with those tandums. The panel needs to be rated for their use and location.
100% ⚡️
Does the top tandem have both conductors from multi wire branch circuit terminated to it?
how is the owner closing the garage door?
This is my house. I didn’t explain it in this video but there was an existing gap in the corner of my garage door that the cable fits under without being squished. Not a great solution but it works fine in my situation.
@@MadElectrician I thought you had a weatherstripping seal on the bottom of the garage door, didn't realize you had a gap; that's a unique situation.
Grate Job exept those old Wire Nuts shurly there is a better Solution!
Thanks! The wire nuts are fine and legal, but there is a better, probably more mechanically sound solution. I could have used small Polaris lugs. They take up a little bit more space but will never come undone. They are just more expensive and I didn’t have them on hand when making the video.
Definitely, they are compliant but with that load and length of time it is pulling a full load I would recomeend a type of crimp or mechanical connector.
Why bother with the EMT bit when you could have simply run the Liquid-tight from EVSE to the B body all in one go?
It really just came down to the location. That and I also wanted to demonstrate an install that was a little more tricky in case other people were in a similar situation. I thought it might be a little more helpful ⚡️
Couldn’t you just run emt straight to the ev charger?
I could have but it wouldn’t have been where I wanted the charger mounted and I also wanted my EMT to be ran down low so that it wasn’t taking up too much wall space. This was more work but I’m happier with the placement of everything.
Always use a regular hammer 🔨 to punch a hole. Not a hole saw or a screw driver. It can be easily patched once your finish....i suggest this method it takes a neat hole no dusk no debris.
You mean the hole in the sheetrock? How neat a hole would that be?
@dubmob151 no I use a rock hammer 🔨 or take your time and do a quick punch with a regular hammer.....saves time.... Trace with hot patch when ready to mud...
@@darwinfussle5031 is a rock hammer a pointy thing and not like a regular hammer?
@dubmob151 yes
Nice, though I think it is sad you can't park your car inside the garage.
Why didn't you pull all the way through instead of splicing?
I would have much rather done that but the internal terminations weren’t designed to be undone. I didn’t want to mess with the listing of the car charger either. Also, this was a video that I partnered with Legrand to make and I wanted to show how someone would do an installation the way that they designed it to be done. The best situation would be going right into the side or bottom of a surface mounted panel without needing to use any extra wire. That just didn’t work for my situation unfortunately.
@@MadElectricianwas the 18' a bit too short to mount the charger next to the panel and still be able to reach your car? Usually chargers seem to have longer 25’ cables, which would seem to have been able to make up the difference in the positioning.
It'd be nice if manufacturers offered options on the cable length to let you fit it for your particular needs. Some might even find a short cable to work better and be more tidy, if they happen to have the charge port right next to the EVSE unit.
Both, you and Legrand seem pretty "generous" if you know what I mean... wink wink
Current equals voltage / resistance.
The same amount of current will pass through you touching a main lug as it would a regular outlet. Why are people so scared of panels
Good ol’ ohm’s law baby.
A couple of reasons, though definitely not all:
It’s very easy to make a mistake and touch a main lug working in an energized panel, especially for someone who isn’t very experienced. It would be easier to get hung up or be in an arc flash/ blast situation vs just by working on a regular outlet. There’s the potential of a phase to phase to short, resulting in a very high fault current. Etc.
Thanks for watching!
😂 my question is how you going to shut the garage door
It doesn’t affect the garage door at all. There’s unfortunatly a slight gap already in that corner so this fits right underneath without getting smashed.
At home charging systems should come with the price of the vehicle.
Will a neck tattoo affect my interview for the apprenticeship?
It should not BUT with that said, you cannot rule out people’s own opinions and judgments- so maybe hold off until you get in! Good luck!
Yeah. If you don’t have at least 1 neck tat and 1 felony they probably won’t take you serious.
You’re applying to a trade not a bank.
Thats a whole lotta vamps
60 amp breaker? Should be 50 amp with 6 gauge wire.
@@surferdude642 It’s considered a continuous load (operating for minimum of 3 hours at max current). 48A x 1.25 (multiplier for continuous loads) = 60A.
@@MadElectrician Shouldn't the wire be 4 gauge then? Personally, I'd be more comfortable with a 50 amp breaker and from what I understand, no EV is going to draw close to that much current anyway.
@@MadElectricianI understand the 1.25 multiplier and how you arrived at the 60 amp breaker. I did some research and your charger I believe is rated for 48 amps and THWN wire is apparently rated for 65 amps, so you are correct. My concern is using wire nuts for this much current allowance. I would prefer using terminal blocks rated for 60 amps for the hot wires.
Easy peasy lemon squeezy. Csgo much?
A generous 3 feet 😂
240 amps? 😬
@@ldiamond3290 Did I accidentally say 240 amps somewhere?
@@MadElectrician 7:28 I'd be stressed out dealing with a 56kw device.
@@ldiamond3290 Shoot, I definitely misspoke 😅 Good catch! I think you’re the first person to point that out. I didn’t even catch that while editing this.
why tf would you put the holster outside????
Most of the time my garage door is shut, and it’s rated to be installed indoor or outdoor. I don’t want to open my garage door every time I need to charge and any car I charge will be parked in the driveway.
@@MadElectrician depends on the area you live in, but the other option would be to install the EVSE unit on the outside wall, but that may not be good if there are enterprising people around that might think they want to try swiping a live unit wholesale.
Maybe the manufacturer should implement a micro switch trigger for an alarm notification on tampering if this is actually a problem for people. Some of these units are pretty pricey, so I suppose it could be a lucrative market. The more sophisticated units using Wi-Fi access probably could be disabled and rendered inoperable to remove the theft market, like Ring with their doorbells. If they swipe it, it's useless, so they'll learn to stop stealing them, becoming a self correcting problem.