awesome instructional video Jon. Everyone has their system in getting to paint ready, I like your system and techniques. Looking forward to the high build and final sanding with guide coat. Thanks for sharing and what you do for us amateurs.
I picked up a tip from Sylvester Customs about 'how to know when to stop sanding.' Draw wavy lines on the panel with a pencil where you know your surface is 'good.' Lay down the next coat of filler. You know you've sanded back to 'good,' a.k.a, STOP when you can see the pencil lines again.
His videos are pretty long, but this should get you right to the pencil trick. ruclips.net/video/xa4Hj2qqW6w/видео.htmlm05s I've watched most of his videos all the way through. Even though he's doing cars on a much higer level than any of us, I watch everything to see what I can pick up and use.
Excelente job showing people how it's done my Firebird brother this is one of the job's I don't really enjoy when it comes to bodywork you are doing a fantastic job 👏 👍
I try to fix all the spots I can like in the Video. Then i block the entire car with 180 grit and all the bad spots show up. Then fill them the same way. After all is good I paint the entire again with one coat of epoxy
Hey you know in January when its like 0 outside in Indy... its 72 here in Phoenix... Ill prove the heat you provide the body work on my Bird hahahahaha
I am really interested in how you plan to do your final paint. I am working on my own Firebird, over here in Sweden (although a gen2 1973...hope that´s acceptable...😎) and I am struggling with planning out the way to shoot my base metallic and then clear coat. Do it with doors/lids mounted to the body and open/close as I paint...? or doors/lids mounted but paint insides first, let dry, mask it, then close everything and shoot all the exterior paint...? or paint everything separately and assemble after paint...? Don´t like the last option though, because of the risk of getting variations in the final appearance on different panels... Your thoughts and experience would be greatly appreciated. What´s the VVG way here? 🙂
Well I will be covering that in-depth very soon. I like what you are saying, especially with metallics. I strongly recommend painting metallic paint with the car assembled to Keep the color and metallic flake even like you mentioned especially for us that are not professional painters. The down side is tape lines or blending. I think I found a way to get both jobs done with minimal or no tape lines and still have the car assembled but not have to open and shut panels stirring up dust. The only panels I plan to paint off the car but at the same time with the body will be the hood, cowl, and trunk lid. But they will be sitting horizontally just like they would be on the car, again for the purpose of getting the metallics to lay the same direction. It’s a lot to explain how soon are you planing to paint?
@@VinylVillageGarage Thanks for answering, John! I´m planning to paint in anything from two to eight weeks. Very difficult to be on a precise timeline with small kids, full time job and only Sundays devoted for working on the car... It´s my first full paint job. I have painted partial cars before, like a repaired doorskin or fender etc. A little nervous about the whole scale of, both preparations and the actual spraying, doing a full car...
@@DanielHansson-m6z that experience painting will help for sure. The thing to keep in mind doing an entire car vs a panel or two is where to start and finish to prevent dry lines and using the right reducer for the temperature to help prevent that. I hope to be painting the pumpkin in the next 2-3 weeks depending on time kind of like you I have my family and job comes first then play time. When I do I want plan to cover a lot of those things and ideas how to make it easier
@@VinylVillageGarage Thanks for the tips. I figured you were pretty close to getting that paintjob done. Looking forward to that episode! And just a general big warm thank you!! Guys like you make the world a little better and funnier place to be in! But you also make a big difference for us fellow petrol heads in getting the motivation and momentum up in our own projects! Keep up the good work. I am, for one, eagerly awaiting the following episodes. Like a kid on christmas morning! 😊
Before final paint everyone seems to hit it with wax and grease remover and they are very careful not to touch it with their bare hands since the oils in your skin will cause adhesion issues with the paint. So I am told. Anyway, if this is the case, what is the difference between final coat of paint and any of the other steps where you are trying to get a good adhesion of any primers or body fillers. I noticed that you have bare hands when working on it. Can you explain what the difference is? I have never worried about it but I was just thinking about it now and wondering if I should be wearing gloves the whole way. Thanks.
Gloves are not a bad idea. At Any point your hands could contaminate the process, keeping it clean is important for sure. I just see it as all the dust kind of absorbs most of the contaminants, but that comes with no guarantees
I’m at the point where I’m considering some high build primer. My question is polyester or 2K urethane, what are the pros and cons. Can you put glazing putty on 2K if you are low somewhere?
This car will be the first time i have tried polyester, supposedly it doesn’t shrink as much. In the past I have used urethane, sands easy and you can still add filler on top if needed, but I always find some sand marks two-three years later in the finish. I hope the polyester reduces or solves that problem.
awesome instructional video Jon. Everyone has their system in getting to paint ready, I like your system and techniques. Looking forward to the high build and final sanding with guide coat. Thanks for sharing and what you do for us amateurs.
The high build primer I used on this build is the first time I have used it and so far very pleased with the results. That a video for another day. 😁
I thank you bro! All the information I can gather helps me tremendously! Keep up the good work! I thank you again!!
Super glad to help, the goal is to save as many dreams as possible.
Great video, great explanations and examples in action , thanks for all you do to help people
Thanks, now just repeat this process for the rest of the damaged areas and done
Great details on how to make it right! Eagerly awaiting the color to go on it!
I am sooooo looking forward to having this thing painted again. That Color will be amazing and can’t wait to see it back to better then original
Again, very enlightening!
Hey trying to help you if you get that Iroc
Thanks for the detailed explanation! Excellent work!🎉
Anytime, glad to help
You are doing a great job with your videos keep it up 👍
Wow thanks! Appreciate you taking the time to check us out.
You always do nice work John!!👍🏽
Appreciate that! Thanks for watching
Looks great!
Thanks
I picked up a tip from Sylvester Customs about 'how to know when to stop sanding.' Draw wavy lines on the panel with a pencil where you know your surface is 'good.' Lay down the next coat of filler. You know you've sanded back to 'good,' a.k.a, STOP when you can see the pencil lines again.
You know that might actually work good. Thanks! Sharing the knowledge was the goal. Appreciate it.
His videos are pretty long, but this should get you right to the pencil trick. ruclips.net/video/xa4Hj2qqW6w/видео.htmlm05s I've watched most of his videos all the way through. Even though he's doing cars on a much higer level than any of us, I watch everything to see what I can pick up and use.
@@blackcloud77 right on. Thanks!
Excelente job showing people how it's done my Firebird brother this is one of the job's I don't really enjoy when it comes to bodywork you are doing a fantastic job 👏 👍
We are just doing are part to keep these cars going
Looking great! Can’t wait to see it painted. Love that color.
Me too that autumn bronze will pop with the white top.
Excellent detail on the process. How do you find some of the deviations on areas you didn’t repair?
I try to fix all the spots I can like in the
Video. Then i block the entire car with 180 grit and all the bad spots show up. Then fill them the same way. After all is good I paint the entire again with one coat of epoxy
@@VinylVillageGarage thanks for sharing.👍
Hey you know in January when its like 0 outside in Indy... its 72 here in Phoenix... Ill prove the heat you provide the body work on my Bird hahahahaha
Deal!!!
Good work! Would you ever use the All Metal on bare steel?
Yes it works great that way as well. I use it anytime I am covering up a weld seam. Probably overkill but I just like it.
Hi from MI.
Thanks for the knowledge
Please send some sun.😎😎✌️
Yes some sunshine would be greatly appropriate
I am a fellow Michigander as well. We need the sun!
I am really interested in how you plan to do your final paint. I am working on my own Firebird, over here in Sweden (although a gen2 1973...hope that´s acceptable...😎) and I am struggling with planning out the way to shoot my base metallic and then clear coat. Do it with doors/lids mounted to the body and open/close as I paint...? or doors/lids mounted but paint insides first, let dry, mask it, then close everything and shoot all the exterior paint...? or paint everything separately and assemble after paint...? Don´t like the last option though, because of the risk of getting variations in the final appearance on different panels... Your thoughts and experience would be greatly appreciated. What´s the VVG way here? 🙂
Well I will be covering that in-depth very soon. I like what you are saying, especially with metallics. I strongly recommend painting metallic paint with the car assembled to
Keep the color and metallic flake even like you mentioned especially for us that are not professional painters. The down side is tape lines or blending. I think I found a way to get both jobs done with minimal or no tape lines and still have the car assembled but not have to open and shut panels stirring up dust. The only panels I plan to paint off the car but at the same time with the body will be the hood, cowl, and trunk lid. But they will be sitting horizontally just like they would be on the car, again for the purpose of getting the metallics to lay the same direction. It’s a lot to explain how soon are you planing to paint?
@@VinylVillageGarage Thanks for answering, John! I´m planning to paint in anything from two to eight weeks. Very difficult to be on a precise timeline with small kids, full time job and only Sundays devoted for working on the car... It´s my first full paint job. I have painted partial cars before, like a repaired doorskin or fender etc. A little nervous about the whole scale of, both preparations and the actual spraying, doing a full car...
@@DanielHansson-m6z that experience painting will help for sure. The thing to keep in mind doing an entire car vs a panel or two is where to start and finish to prevent dry lines and using the right reducer for the temperature to help prevent that. I hope to be painting the pumpkin in the next 2-3 weeks depending on time kind of like you I have my family and job comes first then play time. When I do I want plan to cover a lot of those things and ideas how to make it easier
@@VinylVillageGarage Thanks for the tips. I figured you were pretty close to getting that paintjob done. Looking forward to that episode!
And just a general big warm thank you!!
Guys like you make the world a little better and funnier place to be in! But you also make a big difference for us fellow petrol heads in getting the motivation and momentum up in our own projects!
Keep up the good work. I am, for one, eagerly awaiting the following episodes. Like a kid on christmas morning! 😊
Is that hole on top of your fender for your your antena? My 68 is on the top of quarter pannel.
Yes it is. This car the antenna was fender mounted. Trunk mounted antenna was also an option.
Before final paint everyone seems to hit it with wax and grease remover and they are very careful not to touch it with their bare hands since the oils in your skin will cause adhesion issues with the paint. So I am told. Anyway, if this is the case, what is the difference between final coat of paint and any of the other steps where you are trying to get a good adhesion of any primers or body fillers. I noticed that you have bare hands when working on it. Can you explain what the difference is? I have never worried about it but I was just thinking about it now and wondering if I should be wearing gloves the whole way. Thanks.
Gloves are not a bad idea. At Any point your hands could contaminate the process, keeping it clean is important for sure. I just see it as all the dust kind of absorbs most of the contaminants, but that comes with no guarantees
Hey John, have you done many A body Pontiacs, or stick to Birds mostly?
Only one A body 1969 LeGoat
My judge Clone. I owned a 1969 gto convertible
❤😎🤘
Right on!
I’m at the point where I’m considering some high build primer. My question is polyester or 2K urethane, what are the pros and cons. Can you put glazing putty on 2K if you are low somewhere?
This car will be the first time i have tried polyester, supposedly it doesn’t shrink as much. In the past I have used urethane, sands easy and you can still add filler on top if needed, but I always find some sand marks two-three years later in the finish. I hope the polyester reduces or solves that problem.
Jon, I love your work, but you do something that makes me cringe in every video. Please stop using the car as your work bench/storage shelf!
Lol. I know it just so convenient though, good news I cleaned it off so I could move the car to prime the great pumpkin