I'm glad things worked out the way they did, talking to your uncle and learning the history of the car and how well it was cared for before it sat. Restoring it has been a great experience, I love these old golden era Hondas.
Quick tip. Prior to painting at any temp unless it's 120°F out I put my paint cans 80% submerged in very hot water 15min +/- prior to painting. It thins the paint inside and allows good pressure to build. 😉
@@danh9676 that all depends. Sometimes the compressed air leaks from the cans however yes because the heat from the hot water thins the paint as well as adds to the pressure inside. As they teach in science class... Hotter it gets the more faster molecules and pressure gets where as cold things slow down and minimize. Another good example of that would be an automotive battery which is why it gives you also cold cranking amps.
@@danh9676 Was a fair question. I've done sections myself and I still research for any tips myself. Knowledge has really no drawbacks. More yuh know the better off you are.
I painted an entire car including clear coat with rattle cans. It had bad fading and peeling all over. In it's condition it was only worth about $2000. I sold it today for $6000. The paint job wasn't perfect but it looked 100x better than it did before. Was a lot of work but ended up being a fun project. I learned a lot. I used your video as a guide as well as a bunch of other ones. Thanks
@@AntonioLopez-kw3ev a rattle can at Canadian tire costs around 22 bucks a can. Others such as clear coast go from 11 to 30 bucks. Don’t forget all the rest of the bullisht like sandpaper 12 bucks for 5 squares it all adds up to around 500 bucks depending on how much paint you use. It might be cheaper to get a spray gun but I wouldn’t know
I now understand why getting a paint job is very expensive. This is a lot of work and takes very special equipment, talent, patience, and labor. Thanks for sharing. This was an awesome and fun video to watch.
Nice work. I was in the collision industry (specializing in paint) for 10+ years. A little advice, if you want it: 1) always use primer filler over areas where you've sanded through layers of paint. I noticed you didn't do that on the hood. A few weeks or months after the paint job, you'll probably start to see "mapping" or "bullseyes" of the layers as the new paint shrinks down. It's not as noticeable right after painting. Using the 800 wet was good, though, to prevent sand scratch swelling, which also happens as the paint shrinks down tight on the substrate surface. 2) Tack off the color (it should be dry enough to do so) just before starting the 1st coat of clear. I think a lot of the junk in the clear could have been avoided. Tack off the paper masking as well, as any dust collected on the masking will blow off and can land back in the fresh paint because of the powerful blast of air from the gun. 3) Forget tack coats of clear. Two wet coats. You could make the first coat a little more dry, but not that much. You need to get enough clear on in two coats to provide enough UV protection for the color. Keep in mind that wet sanding and buffing the clear will remove some of that UV protection, so the idea is to lay the clear on heavy enough to still provide UV protection even if you do have to cut and buff. Also, where'd you get that Planet Color clear? That is the darkest clear I've ever seen come out of the can. Some clears are yellowish, but if a professional painter came across that, they'd never use it. That dark of a color out of the can could mean there's a problem with the clear. Barrett Jackson clears, primers, and colors, are just repackaged Dimension products. Even DC5020 is a very transparent clear coat when poured out. At the prices I'm seeing online for the Barrett Jackson clear kits, though, I wonder if it's discontinued, or if it's Finish 1 clear coat. FC720 maybe. When I worked for SW, though, they told us it was repackaged Dimension.
Thanks for the advice! I got that Planet Color clear from my old advertising job, where PC/Sherwin was one of our clients. That was 5+ years ago... perhaps it yellowed due to age? The kits were made for Pep Boys I believe, but have been long discontinued. My 85 Toyota was painted with the Planet Color Red Hot Red kit. I miss the days of free paint...
I'll soon be painting a car I did major rust repair on, this is my first time so this video was REALLY helpful. I've watched a lot of RUclips videos over several months and tried to find something like this but got buried under so many pro autobody shop videos that live in a different reality than the DIYer, although many will be titled something like, 'Paint your car yourself', or 'Fix peeling clearcoat in a matter of minutes!'. I've wasted many hours of time. You start watching a supposed DIY video for newbies but the guy is in a state of the art paint booth using SATA guns and stuff like clear base, expensive blending agents and paint mixes and saying things like 'I used 10-15% more reducer' with no explanation, or not filming a few key steps but not telling you that let alone what he did, etc. And most of these guys can't teach at all, like they give no thought to what they're going to say before turning on the camera or maybe have the gist of an idea and just start talking and assume it's all going to come out good. Sorry for the rant! Again, great video and great instruction. Thanks again for making content for the other 99% of us.
Thanks so much for taking the time to share your thoughts! I agree 100%, so many videos skip details that they expect you should know. Well not everyone has experience in working on their own car so I try to be as detailed as possible.
The paint leaking out of the can is usually a result of the company that made your paint not installing the proper nozzle for the can. It the stem of the spray nozzle is too loose it will gush and splatter everywhere. I usually keep all my old tips from previous cans just in case the wrong nozzle or a worn out nozzle is in the can. Always clean them with Acetone and blow them out with compressed air. Also heating up the can after you fix the nozzle will allow the paint to flow beautifully and flow out better. I hope this helps. We have all had that frustration from paint can splatter.
I've had good luck with soaking my collection of tips in lacquer thinner, then blow them out w compressed air... then get rid of any tips that splatter or leak profusely and save the keepers!!! Great teaching on your part, luv that u include the pitfalls (and how to fix them, so many on here don't!!) Also, if doing this on ur driveway, hose it down in between coats too!! Tnx so much!!
All things considered, you did a fantastic job for a DIYer. Be cautious, sometimes neighbors report you, and it's not good. Occasionally, I don't think you will have a problem. I did this type of work for 22yrs and there are so many new products out now, I would be a rookie. Great job, enjoy your efforts.
@@glennjames7107 Airborne chemicals that aren´t being extracted into a special filter as they would in a paint booth, 2K topcoat especially is highly toxic , I myself am fairly easy going with neighbors when it comes down to it, but I doubt I´d be keen on having a one spraying on a regular basis.. most people have no clue how bad this stuff is for your lungs, especially on a regular basis.
Regardless of how well you paint it’s always good to go over with wet sanding to make sure it’s smooth and consistent the attention to detail makes a great paint job
Like a few professional painters have commented on here , if you lay your clear right you shouldn’t need to wet sand! You have to keep in mind that your going to cut and buff the car b4 u wax it and the cutting compound is going to remove a small amount of clear. Mostly the imperfections if done correctly but still going to remove some from whole car. So if you wet sand and then cut and buff you risk removing to much clear and not leaving enough UV protection, worse case you remove to much in the trouble area that u focus on and it looks splotchy or faded in certain light! I have never painted professionally! I have however done professional detailing years ago and worked with professional painters that trusted my work enough to hand off the car after they painted and cleared it for me to cut and buff and then polish! I learned that if you prep correctly and paint in a clean well ventilated area you will notice that there are less chances for things going wrong!
One thing I’ve learned from not having a paint booth is to create your own! Cheap tarps from harbor freight hung from the ceiling on three sides ( four if painting in a shed or barn ) and a clean shop floor is a must ! Place a few box fans on low 50:27 in front of garage door blowing air out of shop and put cheap ac filters over them to catch any overspray so your not blowing it outside and onto other things! Next find a way to filter the air coming in from the man door into your spray area! I used an old screen door and zip tied it to my tarps that are stretched tight. That’s the other tip make sure your tarps or drop cloths, whatever your using to create a temporary booth is secure enough that if there was a blast of wind from outside that it’s not going to blow against the vehicle your painting! Last tip I have is to set up your booth after you have prepped the vehicle!! Otherwise you will have dust from sanding all over your sides and floor and the blast even from spray cans can dislodge the dust particles and wreak havoc! I roll up my tarps and leave them hanging from ceiling and when I’m sanding anything I have my shop fan blowing as much dust out of my shop as possible! Another tip, if you have a compressor when u roll vehicle outside use the blower nozzle on compressor to blow out crevices prior to washing and that way you get more dust out of hidden area!
One of the best "paint your car at home" videos on RUclips and I have watched many. The best part about this video is that you're not trying to shill one brand's product for doing x or y, just a very matter of fact description on how to obtain something resembling factory paint with rattle cans. I really enjoyed this video as well because It really covered all of the different problems/hurdles that come up with doing paint correction at home; missing clear coat, missing paint, a mixture of both, and how to correct without doing an entire panel. Thanks for making this, and please continue to make more. You truly have the DIY/Pro balance in a sweet spot!
Thanks so much for taking the time to comment! The channel is almost getting to the point where I can afford to do this full time, so the videos will keep coming!
Not Bad. I'm a 20 year Autobody Technician and have done of few cars in my time, Firstly i noticed that you didn't have the spray gun at a 90 degrees at all time alot more on the roof. 2nd most times you spray 2-3 Med-wet coats, they all should be like glass every coat but not heavy coats but look wet everytime..3rd Also you where spraying way to far from the panels, you need to be about 1--2 inches closer that way it sprays on like glass and you won't get the foggy--ness you got on all the coats you sprayed, Notice that the bumpers came out Great that's because you where spraying alot closer.. Painting is not the easiest thing to do remember that. It takes many years to perfect..It's nice to see your not scared to try , that's Awesome keep going and don't Stop. Your video was very good showing what happens if... and then showing how to fix it. Bang on!! I hope our Tips help you to Master the Art of painting.. Spray on Buddy you'll only get better at it.
Thanks! I will probably do a full paint job on one of my trucks next year. I'm thankful for all the pros who took their time to offer advice in the comments!
Pro tip here,work your way to the center of hood and then do the other side of the hood and then the other side fenders, that way you don't have dry edges.This is a must on single stage paint. Good job and video
great video! and most comments are helpful to learn more info also. its not that everything you did was perfect thats important, its your detailed information and the goal you had in mind with the outcome! you turned a 350$ car into a 3500$ car. its not a show car but now a gem for an older car for a first time driver or a low budget ride that looks good and a no rust. in my experience as a do it my selfer, most of the "pro" body men and painters want us to think its impossible to do any of this at any level without them and their "years of experience" not to say we can do equal work. but "goodnuf" is ok and we get better the more we do it too. thanks for doing these
I painted my teen son's 95 Impreza with rattle cans. From forest green to navy blue. I used Rust-Oleum brand enamel. I do not buy the spray cans with the caps like this guy used...they are often junk, and on big projects will cramp your finger faster too. I did the whole job in phases, in 7 days start to finish, under an open carport. 1 day later, after a decent dry time, the Colorado wind gusts picked up for days. I was very blessed! Close call! My recipe was: sand with 320, then 600, clean with soap/water, mask/cover, clean with lighter fluid twice, tac cloth, 2 coats black primer, 3 coats color, 3 coats clear...each 10 to 12 minutes apart. All paint has to applied within 90 minutes from start, upon a flashed off coat. 2 years later and still good. I don't even think he's waxed it yet. 😅 Oh, i didn't sand between any coats, obviously. It didn't look perfect but good enough for a teen ride.
I painted a civic with rustoleum once and it looked great! I didn't even clear it. After a ew years the paint dulled but I wet sanded & polished it and people couldn't believe it was a rattle can paint job. Here are some pics: civic-eg.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=305689
For blending clearcoat lines like you did on your A pillars, put the paper on upside down (tape at the bottom, paper toward the roof) then lay it back over itself so it creates a rolled edge. Still can’t spray super heavy toward that edge but you won’t be left with a hard line.
This is excellent. I just painted my jeep and had hard lined taped it away from my spray pattern in hopes it would "fade". It just created a gritty surface of several inches - plus the hard line. It made for a lot of wet sanding and poor blending. I'll definitely try this approach in the future.
i just bought a 2004 chevy 1500 and im litterally going to be trying to make it look as good as possible. Im so thankful for your videos because i to am just an average guy with very little equipment and experience
In auto body school my teacher always says “Forget the tack coat for clearcoat, spray it how you would want it to look.” So in other words if you spray the clear thick, it will come out the gun smooth and glossy. You just have to be very careful with runs. There is a happy medium between wet glossy clear and runny clear. It takes practice but once you master it, you wont even have to wet sand your clear after you shoot it. All you will have to do is spot sand your dirt nibs and thats when you get a super professional result. 👍 Good luck man! Edit: I forgot. If you do get runs in your clear, you can either scrape them flat with a razor blade, wetsand, and buff OR you can just wetsand them out but thats the more risky method.
excellent advice I've trained a lot of techs in my long career. I've been painting and supervising paint techs for over my long career of 50 years and still working and running my our autobody shop i love this trade and hope more young people find it appealing.
Awesome video. Great editing. Like the gentle music. Great narration. Good job explaining everything. The paint and body shop I worked in years ago, we used Dawn or Joy soap while wet sanding, made the sand paper last longer and made clean up eaiser. Great job!
This video was exactly what I needed. I appreciate the whole video with the ups and downs that you dealt with. I was planning on doing some touch up on one of my vehicles. Thanks for keeping it real.
Tip: Try not to use the last little bit of the spray can, it can start spitting paint out unevenly and cause little paint drops instead of a full paint coverage spray. That's what I've always done and never had any problems with spraying, hope this helps! 😊
I just acquired a low mileage, like new interior, 2010 Honda Civic with some pretty bad clear coat oxidation. After watching your video, I believe I might be able to make it look decent. Thanks a million!
If you plan to reuse a can of spray paint ,when your finished with it turn the can up side down and spray this ensures only air comes out and cleans your nozzle
Going to attempt to repaint the hood of my "salsa red pearl" Sienna, and this is just the kind info I was looking for, even down to the paint color. (The hood looks so bad, I figured I didnt have much to lose by trying, having never done any car paint before.) You made this look doable for a complete noob, no special equipment required. Thank you.
You do nice work...Got new door seals for my Toyota and went to your video to see how...I like getting a look at how things are attached ect, before I tear into it....removing the dash was a big hit to...the vent clips where a mystery.....Keep them coming
I'm in the process of repairing a rust spot on my car and using body filler. Now I'm up to the primer and paint work, this video helps a lot. Thank you =)
I hope you don't mind a suggestion. Next time, you should try putting an HVAC filter in one door and seal around it, then put a fan blowing out the other door. Also, you should keep your floor wet to prevent dust from being kicked up as you walk around the car.
@@heberslade3588 That's usually an easy fix with paint correction. Here's how I removed the swirl marks on my black mustang before applying ceramic coating ruclips.net/video/z2IVaqRdbOg/видео.html
To get rid of the orange peel without having to wet sand it afterwards : You just either add more thinner or spray thinner only on the clear and it smoothens it down.
@@brianflaherty7785 That is the trick. When you've clearcoated and it does look orange peel, you add a faire amount of thinner in your gun and spray it all over, or just thinner. Don't overspray but put slightly more than a mist. To get the hang of it, try it beforhand. Hope this helps
No. No. And no. Painter and coatings specialists of 30 years here. Spraying thinner onto an already drying product will look great for a shot time in comparison to what doing it correctly will look like. When one introduces solvents to fix a foreseeable issue they are merely degrading the properties of the material. This will lead to a shorter life of product and cause checking, or delaminating. The cohesion will be lost some, and the clear will lose some of its UV protection. The correct method is to use the retardant that is available for the product line. Another way to solve this problem is to make sure the material is atomizing correctly. The spray gun/cup gun isn’t the only quality control to check. The regulated pressure has to match specifications and the filter from the compressor needs cleaned, or purged if the guy even has one attached. To me it looked like he was moving a little slow with it and just needed to pick up the pace a bit, or turn his air down.
Using the blocks is a good idea. I was a Metal Man for 25 years I do it all. Mostly crash work I have found that on the curved areas you can do a good job using just the side of your hand and light pressure. In my opinion 800 is too fine I used to paint my color over 400 wet then 3 nice coats of clear . Either Imron or Deltron . I used to use a nice epoxy primer and did many a high dollar paint job this way. A lot of it depends on the materials you can get your hands on. Things have changed since I was in my prime in body shops.You are doing a good job and not spending a lot of money to do it.
Try covering your blend areas with an open piece of paper (not sealed with tape) to create a taper from overspray. Remove the paper before you put on the blender 👍 great video
Absolutely fantastic video in all aspects! I’m getting ready to refinish my wife’s 09 Q7 and I’m thinking I’m in for a very similar routine as you’ve shown here. Could be that the clear is still intact on my project but I now feel I’m ready if more is required. Thanks Bud - will definitely go through your channel and upcoming vids. Again, super job!
Look into getting U-Tech paint and primer. Very easy to work with and comes pre thinned. You just need to add the hardener. You can get an HVLP spray gun with 20 oz cup from Harbor Freight for $25 that will do the job nicely but you'll still need a decent sized compressor. The key thing with any spray gun is to completely disassemble and clean between jobs.
Looks pretty good. If you make your spray pattern smaller with that gun and move in closer your finish will have less orange peel. And your first coat more glossy and let it dry more so your next one's will stick to it. Hopefully ths will inspire you to get a better finish so you don't have to work so hard and have to buff as much
Hi there mate from Australia. Thank you for sharing your 'talents' with us all. I'm looking at a Ford Falcon today with the same issues, I'll give her a go. Love your work on the Honda, you brought her back!, Really nice work! Thanks again.
Don't start painting in the middle of the hood. Start at the edge and work to the middle, then on the second half, start in the middle and work your way to the edge. Looks like you need a bigger nozzle for clear on your spray gun.
Great video. Very well explained. I just bought a 2000 Chevy Silverado that has clear coat issues all over. I was worried about what to do, but after watching this, I'm all in on trying this.
Like you said, after years of doing. You never get tired of fresh slick clear. No matter how long you have done it. Don't worry about the flow indicator on vertical surface 😅
Those rattle cans got too cold or something. Nice video, thanks for the insight! I have a 2000 Toyota Tundra with the same peeling clearcoat problem, typical for early Toyotas.
Myself I worked as as owner/operator of a contractor for the city of Vancouver and our trucks were white and a pain to keep presentable . Every other wash one panel at a time I would use spray 9 and after that I would use Meguiars wash and wax. But the nice thing about the Spray Nine it has gotten rid of all the stains in the paint
Use the slowest hardener that your skill level and temp will allow. To reduce the orange peel you have you need to change your spraying style. Will reduce the peel if u get closer to the panel and greatly increase your speed. 75% overlap while being 6ish inches away and moving quickly will give a very smooth and full finish. Much less product waste.
when you mentioned putting in a link for the vintage masking paper machine i thought that was hilarious. then i checked and you actually did! obviously not vintage but was surprised, tons of youtubers say theres a link in descriptions but almost never are
Fantastic job. Btw every body shop I’ve worked in would cut and buff each vehicle after spraying. This removed the imperfections in the clear. Even in a down draft booth something always falls on the clear.
If they were cutting and buffing every vehicle, they were spending a lot of $ on that unnecessarily and should be working to correct that. A good body shop manager would understand that and take action. A combination of a good painter, good products, good spray equipment, and good paint booth that is being maintained properly, should result in paint jobs that need no more work. I've been around the industry for a long time. Plenty of shops cut and buff rarely because the quality of the work out of the booth is very high. I remember talking to a painter about the SW HPC15 clear coat. He said he loves using it because he never has to cut or buff it. It looks perfect every time.
on a professional level that is very true I HATE when my painters have to clean up their work with a LOT A BUFFING. That being said a quick cleanup is very appropriate I seen the best spry booths deliver less than perfect results. My 30-year-old heated Seni-down booth delivers good results if the painter is conscience and knows his craft. Its ALL about the preparation. No matter how super great your spray booth is. if the prep is terrible results will be less than desirable. We are commenting on a nonprofessional in his home garage, not at our professional repair shops He is doing a fairly good job for somebody that doesn't do this as a living. For DIY folks that not too bad for what he wants to accomplish which is a finish that's OK for that year of car. It's better than is started out as. P.S. many of my family members are professional carpenters and cabinet makers so when I do some carpenter repairs, they say "not too bad for an amateur". that's the best a non-professional can expect form folks who been doing a trade for a lifetime.
Quick tip that I learned working with my dad who owned a body/paint shop turn your spray guns flow up a bit for your heavy coat because if you are moving to slow you will leave more room for errors from fatigue
You can drain the pressure on a aerosol can by turning it upside down applying a weight on it. Once the air pressure is gone, cut the can open with a can opener, pour it into your spray gun... Ready to spray with no hassles..😁
Hey another little trick that works great is when you have spots down to bare metal make a small paint shield to only paint where bare metal is it helps build paint thicker to match existing paint also to when masking long bare metal sections roll your tape like a straw makes paint edge softer so you don't have a hard edge to remove
ANOTHER THING I LEARNED WAS TO USE MINWAX CRYSTAL CLEAR WATER BASE CLEAR. IT'S VERY CHEAP AND LOOKS GREAT AND LASTS IN THE WEATHER. WORKS GREAT ON BOATS. TRY IT, YOU'LL BE GLAD YOU DID.
Yeah, my black Nissan started doing this a few years ago...rapidly getting worse. Roof, back trunk are bad and now back side drivers 1/4 panel...which faces the sun 99% of the time. The rest of the car (hood especially) is perfectly fine! Ugh! Thanks for this!
I don't think orange peel is that big of a deal, better than developing rust over time. You did a fantastic job, I'm hoping to redo my Camry this summer. I don't have a garage so I'll probably just use an easy up and take my chances at it not being perfect.
The key the painting in your garage is make sure you leave those garage doors totally closed, and also keep your floor wet because every time you walk around whether you realize it or not there is dirt kicked up regardless of how good you clean the floor and keeping the floor wet will help keep the dust from kicking up. You got a lot of dirt in that paint and those are very very hard to sand out as you wind up dragging that dirt across the entire panel.
For the blending areas to go better search "back taping" or "Back masking". Your skill is certainly above average, but this will really improve your game. When you wet sand use your dominant hand, and with your other hold either a water bottle with a tiny hole and allow that to drip over your sanding area, OR you can hold a micro fiber shop towel loaded with water, and use a bucket at your feet to recharge it, and squeeze and drip water where you want it.
@@6thGearGarage You are welcome. The last bit I did not see is to wet the floor before you spray. This traps dust and crud from lifting. Especially helpful lower on the doors.
good advice for wet sanding I've been doing autobody since 1969 and still doing it in my own shop; excellent advice. that's a lot of sanding and compounding but for an amateur not half bad using rattle can color and clearing in a less than ideal conditions. As mentioned in another comment keep you gun closer to the panel and paint the entire roof first before painting the lower body makes for less overspray on the entire car.
Thanks! Even though it could have gone better, I was happy with the way it turned out. I painted an entire Honda Civic with rustoleum spray cans maybe 15 years ago and it actually came out great as well. I think this is the only video I have of the car and it's pretty dusty: ruclips.net/video/20USP8FEigU/видео.html
Good stuff. I have some clear coat that keeps peeling on sections of my 4Runner, this helps give me some ideas as I don’t want to sand and completely repaint vs salvaging and re-clear coating. There is just no easy solution. Appreciate you documenting your work. BTW, I love that Land Cruiser!
I have always wanted one of the older Toyota Land Cruisers. The ones that are kind of like a Jeep but with more Windows in the back with the 2 Side Seats. I had a Friend that had one, and it would go anywhere.👍
Moral of the story is don't buy paint from ebay. I immediately knew the problem when you said it had paint on nozzle. People test color and return paint. So many unethical people on eBay and else where.
I understand your desire for wanting to take the tape off before the paint dries but you're taking a big chance on dropping additional dirt into the clear and having it stick. More dirt is more work. I know you know that. Good video though. I like your tip about the tiger striping.
Tell you what, you have a amazing attitude and seems you are always in a good mood. Me on the other hand would of had red paint all over my shop from 3 cans of paint slamed against the wall...lol
I've calmed down as I've gotten older lol. Funny story in the mid 2000s I was working on an EK civic with a lights dimming/charging problem and I had narrowed it down to the alternator. They say it's possible to remove the alternator without taking out the driver's axle, and it was barely possible. I was so pissed by the time I got the alternator out of the engine bay that I threw it on the concrete and hit it with a big hammer, breaking the finned part of the aluminum housing. Then after I installed the new alternator, the problem was still there - ended up being a bad connection in the fuse box. I smashed a perfectly good alternator! Over the years I've learned when it's time to take a break lol
Quick tip, dont forget to change the timing chain on it, my sister had an acura legend, and it got totalled after the timing chain flew apart, the valves hit the pistons, and that was the end of that car
I’ve made a paint booth in my garage and to keep from getting dirt and garbage on the paint I closed off everything and I opened two areas and made ventilation with a few house filters taped together and a fan attached to that with another filter protecting the fan pushing air out from the paint booth and the other one was pulling air in and it worked good. Another time I actually made a paint booth with pvc piping 6 mil plastic and a few rolls of duck tape and taped in a few filters on each side and just built it around the car
I did something similar here: ruclips.net/video/2dJj15N_TC8/видео.html Next time I paint something large, I'm going that route again for sure. It was all going well until someone mowed the lawn lol.
The great thing about clear coat is you can fix your mistakes much like back in the day when I used to paint with lacquer. Just went sand and buff and the imperfections are gone.
boy o' boy another lacquer painter. those were the days when you could paint out in the open shop without too much worrying about dirt and clear coating. A little color coat sanding if needed and that compounding. I like the new technology better. Who wants to use a Sioux Brand buffer to compound paint (P.S. they felt like they weighted a ton).
Most of your orange peel is likely due to having a too high distance while spraying in all layers. Your color coat was already very rough and you might have benefited from having your color harden out, sand it with 800 and put a wet coat of color on top of that. With a metallic, wet sanding color is usually a no-no, so you would have to put on quite a bit of paint on top of where you sanded. No sense in keeping on painting without correction once you see your surface is so incredibly rough. For the clear with the spray gun, you can reduce your pressure just a bit so you can slow down the gun a bit and spray closer, so putting down a nice wet coat without runs is easier to do. Watch "Paint Society" for some great tips on how to prevent this bad of an orange peel with distance, pressure and fan settings on your gun.
I recently replaced the side view mirror on my daughter’s car after she hit a mailbox & obliterated the original. Ordered a new mirror skin and Duplicolor spray cans of the adhesion promoter, base coat, and clear coat. Each can had zero issues with the paint leaking at the nozzle before it arrived or after I started using it. I don’t know what company you ordered your base coat from, but all that leaking isn’t normal for a quality product. Makes me think of stuff I’ve ordered off eBay over the years. All of it was substandard garbage made in China. You did a great job with what you had, but fyi, I’ve found that ordering quality name brand stuff off Amazon always works out better than anything I order off eBay, wether it’s cheap or not.
I actually went to Duplicolor first, after using their Perfect Match paint in the past. However, this Phoenix Red must be a rare color because they didn't carry it. Next time I'm just buying a quart and skipping the aerosol cans.
great job, after years of paint and body, I have learned to 'wrap'... nowadays I would wetsand all that dryed up clear and then, wrap it !.. wrap is alot like paint, the way the surface looks before wrapping is the way it will look after wrapping.. will the bad paint lift off when repositioning the wrap? buy some cheap wrap and test various areas, when repositioning the wrap, fresh painted area will sometimes pull off the car, wet sand down to the primer and try again :D another trick, for runs, use spot filler and fill the valley of the run, then block sand the 'crest until its perfect, this way , no burning through the new clear God Bless
that 1/4 body line is nice and sharp, perfect for using rolled tape edge ( will soften clear coat line) then spot blender on top of 1/4. would minimze the visable blend to just a lil bit on top of 1.4. grab a flashlight and turn off the lights when yopu think your done base, coverage will show up much better .....also your really need a wet on wet sealer for those burn throughs,...... always expect tons of comments from fellow body/paint guys when doing these kinda vids.. we love sharing knowledge and tips. obviously you cant expect paint shop quality from rattle cans and no air.
Dude, don’t ruin your clay bar on areas you are going to paint. Just use soft scrub or bar keeper helper cleaner on those areas with loose paint. It will lift up a lot of rotten clear coat and also lift up most oxidation and dirt from the exposed paint and make it look a lot better. Another tip, use an old credit card as a scraper to remove the white rotten clearcoat bubbly areas. Use warm soapy water with the credit card scrapper. The plastic card won’t scratch the paint. Works great!
I love your commentary. At least you know your imperfections. I was surprised why didn’t you spray (color corrected ) this entire car with a spray gun. It would look so great ! Anyway, great video ❗️
At first I only planned on touching up the hood and roof, so I bought the two aerosol cans. Then I decided to fix the bumpers too, so I needed another can. At that point I wished I had just bought a quart of color to apply with the spray gun, but I couldn't return the first 2 cans. However, as you saw, the cans were not the best solution. I will spray the color with a gun next time. The rest of the car's finish was in good condition, so I did not want to repaint it all.
What pressure where you spraying at? To me it look like you gun was surging an thats got to do with pressure your compressor is the wrong size its working to hard .an sorry mate just trying to help dont do a tack coat an leave it go straigjt back over it it look heaps dry.
This was my Grandparents exact car. You bought it from my uncle Ron. So many memories in this thing. Thanks for taking rehabing this!
I'm glad things worked out the way they did, talking to your uncle and learning the history of the car and how well it was cared for before it sat. Restoring it has been a great experience, I love these old golden era Hondas.
That machine is in pristine condition for the age.
You did an amazing job! I've been wanting to redo my roof and your video was very easy to follow. Just need a garage 😂😂😂
I would think it dangerous to use that last bit of paint, I'd instantly stop at that point. Risks for paint splatters. 🫣
Significant improvement. It's nice you can go back for improvements, here and there. 👌🏼
Quick tip. Prior to painting at any temp unless it's 120°F out I put my paint cans 80% submerged in very hot water 15min +/- prior to painting. It thins the paint inside and allows good pressure to build. 😉
Great advice, thanks!
Will that help prevent the paint from gushing out like in the video?
@@danh9676 that all depends. Sometimes the compressed air leaks from the cans however yes because the heat from the hot water thins the paint as well as adds to the pressure inside. As they teach in science class... Hotter it gets the more faster molecules and pressure gets where as cold things slow down and minimize. Another good example of that would be an automotive battery which is why it gives you also cold cranking amps.
@@BigSteve_Gaming187
I was just curious, I will eventually want to paint my car so I am starting to learn now.
Thanks.
@@danh9676 Was a fair question. I've done sections myself and I still research for any tips myself. Knowledge has really no drawbacks. More yuh know the better off you are.
I painted an entire car including clear coat with rattle cans. It had bad fading and peeling all over. In it's condition it was only worth about $2000. I sold it today for $6000. The paint job wasn't perfect but it looked 100x better than it did before. Was a lot of work but ended up being a fun project. I learned a lot. I used your video as a guide as well as a bunch of other ones. Thanks
How much did the cans of paint cost
What can brands did you use
@@cztkxz410250:27
@@AntonioLopez-kw3ev a rattle can at Canadian tire costs around 22 bucks a can. Others such as clear coast go from 11 to 30 bucks. Don’t forget all the rest of the bullisht like sandpaper 12 bucks for 5 squares it all adds up to around 500 bucks depending on how much paint you use. It might be cheaper to get a spray gun but I wouldn’t know
@@AntonioLopez-kw3ev * if you paint the whole car
I now understand why getting a paint job is very expensive. This is a lot of work and takes very special equipment, talent, patience, and labor. Thanks for sharing. This was an awesome and fun video to watch.
this guy speaks sooo good better than a shop teacher! so much pleasure to listen to him.
Thanks for watching!!
It's not often you hear Tchaikovsky in the background of an auto repair video. Then followed by the Blue Danube. Love it!
Thanks, I tried to make it timeless. Nothing worse than clicking on a video from 2011 and hearing dubstep!
Came for the repairs, stayed for the music. A true luxury experience.
"this is the clear coat that is shot from guns...", not cans!
Not bad 😁
love 1812
Nice work. I was in the collision industry (specializing in paint) for 10+ years. A little advice, if you want it: 1) always use primer filler over areas where you've sanded through layers of paint. I noticed you didn't do that on the hood. A few weeks or months after the paint job, you'll probably start to see "mapping" or "bullseyes" of the layers as the new paint shrinks down. It's not as noticeable right after painting. Using the 800 wet was good, though, to prevent sand scratch swelling, which also happens as the paint shrinks down tight on the substrate surface. 2) Tack off the color (it should be dry enough to do so) just before starting the 1st coat of clear. I think a lot of the junk in the clear could have been avoided. Tack off the paper masking as well, as any dust collected on the masking will blow off and can land back in the fresh paint because of the powerful blast of air from the gun. 3) Forget tack coats of clear. Two wet coats. You could make the first coat a little more dry, but not that much. You need to get enough clear on in two coats to provide enough UV protection for the color. Keep in mind that wet sanding and buffing the clear will remove some of that UV protection, so the idea is to lay the clear on heavy enough to still provide UV protection even if you do have to cut and buff.
Also, where'd you get that Planet Color clear? That is the darkest clear I've ever seen come out of the can. Some clears are yellowish, but if a professional painter came across that, they'd never use it. That dark of a color out of the can could mean there's a problem with the clear. Barrett Jackson clears, primers, and colors, are just repackaged Dimension products. Even DC5020 is a very transparent clear coat when poured out. At the prices I'm seeing online for the Barrett Jackson clear kits, though, I wonder if it's discontinued, or if it's Finish 1 clear coat. FC720 maybe. When I worked for SW, though, they told us it was repackaged Dimension.
Thanks for the advice! I got that Planet Color clear from my old advertising job, where PC/Sherwin was one of our clients. That was 5+ years ago... perhaps it yellowed due to age? The kits were made for Pep Boys I believe, but have been long discontinued. My 85 Toyota was painted with the Planet Color Red Hot Red kit. I miss the days of free paint...
Thanks for taking the time to explain this
@@kennyh5083 Gotta love all the YT hack DIY'ers.........
Great add’l tips Richard - thanks!
Thanks
I'll soon be painting a car I did major rust repair on, this is my first time so this video was REALLY helpful. I've watched a lot of RUclips videos over several months and tried to find something like this but got buried under so many pro autobody shop videos that live in a different reality than the DIYer, although many will be titled something like, 'Paint your car yourself', or 'Fix peeling clearcoat in a matter of minutes!'. I've wasted many hours of time. You start watching a supposed DIY video for newbies but the guy is in a state of the art paint booth using SATA guns and stuff like clear base, expensive blending agents and paint mixes and saying things like 'I used 10-15% more reducer' with no explanation, or not filming a few key steps but not telling you that let alone what he did, etc. And most of these guys can't teach at all, like they give no thought to what they're going to say before turning on the camera or maybe have the gist of an idea and just start talking and assume it's all going to come out good. Sorry for the rant! Again, great video and great instruction. Thanks again for making content for the other 99% of us.
Thanks so much for taking the time to share your thoughts! I agree 100%, so many videos skip details that they expect you should know. Well not everyone has experience in working on their own car so I try to be as detailed as possible.
2yrs old comment but couldn't agree more mate cheers
The paint leaking out of the can is usually a result of the company that made your paint not installing the proper nozzle for the can. It the stem of the spray nozzle is too loose it will gush and splatter everywhere. I usually keep all my old tips from previous cans just in case the wrong nozzle or a worn out nozzle is in the can. Always clean them with Acetone and blow them out with compressed air. Also heating up the can after you fix the nozzle will allow the paint to flow beautifully and flow out better. I hope this helps. We have all had that frustration from paint can splatter.
had alot of spray can problems. Duplicolor is usually decent.
I came down to the comments to say just that. Every time I get a can with a great nozzle, I keep the nozzle when the can is done!
I've had good luck with soaking my collection of tips in lacquer thinner, then blow them out w compressed air... then get rid of any tips that splatter or leak profusely and save the keepers!!! Great teaching on your part, luv that u include the pitfalls (and how to fix them, so many on here don't!!) Also, if doing this on ur driveway, hose it down in between coats too!! Tnx so much!!
What do you mean by Heat Up the can. You can't say that and I microwave it LOL
All things considered, you did a fantastic job for a DIYer. Be cautious, sometimes neighbors report you, and it's not good. Occasionally, I don't think you will have a problem. I did this type of work for 22yrs and there are so many new products out now, I would be a rookie. Great job, enjoy your efforts.
Thank you! I'm fortunate to have cool neighbors :)
Report for what?
What are you talking about ?
Just exactly what is he doing unlawful ?
For Contaminating the air where their kids live, as he doesn't have filter for the outdoors.
@@glennjames7107 Airborne chemicals that aren´t being extracted into a special filter as they would in a paint booth, 2K topcoat especially is highly toxic , I myself am fairly easy going with neighbors when it comes down to it, but I doubt I´d be keen on having a one spraying on a regular basis.. most people have no clue how bad this stuff is for your lungs, especially on a regular basis.
Regardless of how well you paint it’s always good to go over with wet sanding to make sure it’s smooth and consistent the attention to detail makes a great paint job
great point
Like a few professional painters have commented on here , if you lay your clear right you shouldn’t need to wet sand! You have to keep in mind that your going to cut and buff the car b4 u wax it and the cutting compound is going to remove a small amount of clear. Mostly the imperfections if done correctly but still going to remove some from whole car. So if you wet sand and then cut and buff you risk removing to much clear and not leaving enough UV protection, worse case you remove to much in the trouble area that u focus on and it looks splotchy or faded in certain light!
I have never painted professionally! I have however done professional detailing years ago and worked with professional painters that trusted my work enough to hand off the car after they painted and cleared it for me to cut and buff and then polish! I learned that if you prep correctly and paint in a clean well ventilated area you will notice that there are less chances for things going wrong!
One thing I’ve learned from not having a paint booth is to create your own! Cheap tarps from harbor freight hung from the ceiling on three sides ( four if painting in a shed or barn ) and a clean shop floor is a must ! Place a few box fans on low 50:27 in front of garage door blowing air out of shop and put cheap ac filters over them to catch any overspray so your not blowing it outside and onto other things! Next find a way to filter the air coming in from the man door into your spray area! I used an old screen door and zip tied it to my tarps that are stretched tight. That’s the other tip make sure your tarps or drop cloths, whatever your using to create a temporary booth is secure enough that if there was a blast of wind from outside that it’s not going to blow against the vehicle your painting! Last tip I have is to set up your booth after you have prepped the vehicle!! Otherwise you will have dust from sanding all over your sides and floor and the blast even from spray cans can dislodge the dust particles and wreak havoc! I roll up my tarps and leave them hanging from ceiling and when I’m sanding anything I have my shop fan blowing as much dust out of my shop as possible! Another tip, if you have a compressor when u roll vehicle outside use the blower nozzle on compressor to blow out crevices prior to washing and that way you get more dust out of hidden area!
One of the best "paint your car at home" videos on RUclips and I have watched many. The best part about this video is that you're not trying to shill one brand's product for doing x or y, just a very matter of fact description on how to obtain something resembling factory paint with rattle cans. I really enjoyed this video as well because It really covered all of the different problems/hurdles that come up with doing paint correction at home; missing clear coat, missing paint, a mixture of both, and how to correct without doing an entire panel. Thanks for making this, and please continue to make more. You truly have the DIY/Pro balance in a sweet spot!
Thanks so much for taking the time to comment! The channel is almost getting to the point where I can afford to do this full time, so the videos will keep coming!
This 6th Gear is a YT hack......if this is the best vid you've seen you better start watching more than 1 or 2 videos/channels..
Not Bad. I'm a 20 year Autobody Technician and have done of few cars in my time, Firstly i noticed that you didn't have the spray gun at a 90 degrees at all time alot more on the roof. 2nd most times you spray 2-3 Med-wet coats, they all should be like glass every coat but not heavy coats but look wet everytime..3rd Also you where spraying way to far from the panels, you need to be about 1--2 inches closer that way it sprays on like glass and you won't get the foggy--ness you got on all the coats you sprayed, Notice that the bumpers came out Great that's because you where spraying alot closer.. Painting is not the easiest thing to do remember that. It takes many years to perfect..It's nice to see your not scared to try , that's Awesome keep going and don't Stop.
Your video was very good showing what happens if... and then showing how to fix it. Bang on!!
I hope our Tips help you to Master the Art of painting..
Spray on Buddy you'll only get better at it.
Thanks! I will probably do a full paint job on one of my trucks next year. I'm thankful for all the pros who took their time to offer advice in the comments!
Pro tip here,work your way to the center of hood and then do the other side of the hood and then the other side fenders, that way you don't have dry edges.This is a must on single stage paint. Good job and video
Good tip! I always appreciate some good advice.
@@6thGearGarage no problem,it really helps when painting in a unregulated garage like you have too . Slow reducer is your friend when it's hot out.
great video! and most comments are helpful to learn more info also. its not that everything you did was perfect thats important, its your detailed information and the goal you had in mind with the outcome! you turned a 350$ car into a 3500$ car. its not a show car but now a gem for an older car for a first time driver or a low budget ride that looks good and a no rust. in my experience as a do it my selfer, most of the "pro" body men and painters want us to think its impossible to do any of this at any level without them and their "years of experience" not to say we can do equal work. but "goodnuf" is ok and we get better the more we do it too.
thanks for doing these
I don’t even need to paint my damn car but I watched this entire thing
Nothing wrong with appreciating the work of others. 😊
LUCKY YOU 😫
I painted my teen son's 95 Impreza with rattle cans. From forest green to navy blue. I used Rust-Oleum brand enamel. I do not buy the spray cans with the caps like this guy used...they are often junk, and on big projects will cramp your finger faster too. I did the whole job in phases, in 7 days start to finish, under an open carport. 1 day later, after a decent dry time, the Colorado wind gusts picked up for days. I was very blessed! Close call!
My recipe was: sand with 320, then 600, clean with soap/water, mask/cover, clean with lighter fluid twice, tac cloth, 2 coats black primer, 3 coats color, 3 coats clear...each 10 to 12 minutes apart. All paint has to applied within 90 minutes from start, upon a flashed off coat. 2 years later and still good. I don't even think he's waxed it yet. 😅
Oh, i didn't sand between any coats, obviously. It didn't look perfect but good enough for a teen ride.
I painted a civic with rustoleum once and it looked great! I didn't even clear it. After a ew years the paint dulled but I wet sanded & polished it and people couldn't believe it was a rattle can paint job. Here are some pics: civic-eg.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=305689
For blending clearcoat lines like you did on your A pillars, put the paper on upside down (tape at the bottom, paper toward the roof) then lay it back over itself so it creates a rolled edge. Still can’t spray super heavy toward that edge but you won’t be left with a hard line.
Great tip, thanks!
That's a Pro Tip!
This is excellent. I just painted my jeep and had hard lined taped it away from my spray pattern in hopes it would "fade". It just created a gritty surface of several inches - plus the hard line. It made for a lot of wet sanding and poor blending. I'll definitely try this approach in the future.
perfect professional tip
i just bought a 2004 chevy 1500 and im litterally going to be trying to make it look as good as possible. Im so thankful for your videos because i to am just an average guy with very little equipment and experience
In auto body school my teacher always says “Forget the tack coat for clearcoat, spray it how you would want it to look.” So in other words if you spray the clear thick, it will come out the gun smooth and glossy. You just have to be very careful with runs. There is a happy medium between wet glossy clear and runny clear. It takes practice but once you master it, you wont even have to wet sand your clear after you shoot it. All you will have to do is spot sand your dirt nibs and thats when you get a super professional result. 👍 Good luck man!
Edit: I forgot. If you do get runs in your clear, you can either scrape them flat with a razor blade, wetsand, and buff OR you can just wetsand them out but thats the more risky method.
THAT WHAT HE ALREADY SAID THE PLAN WAS DUDE, ECHO~ ECHO!
excellent advice I've trained a lot of techs in my long career. I've been painting and supervising paint techs for over my long career of 50 years and still working and running my our autobody shop i love this trade and hope more young people find it appealing.
Awesome video. Great editing. Like the gentle music. Great narration. Good job explaining everything. The paint and body shop I worked in years ago, we used Dawn or Joy soap while wet sanding, made the sand paper last longer and made clean up eaiser. Great job!
This video was exactly what I needed. I appreciate the whole video with the ups and downs that you dealt with. I was planning on doing some touch up on one of my vehicles. Thanks for keeping it real.
Tip: Try not to use the last little bit of the spray can, it can start spitting paint out unevenly and cause little paint drops instead of a full paint coverage spray. That's what I've always done and never had any problems with spraying, hope this helps! 😊
Thanks for the tip!
@@6thGearGarageNot a problem!😊
Great job dude and great detailed advice. I was feeling your pain with the leaking can!
I just acquired a low mileage, like new interior, 2010 Honda Civic with some pretty bad clear coat oxidation. After watching your video, I believe I might be able to make it look decent. Thanks a million!
If you plan to reuse a can of spray paint ,when your finished with it turn the can up side down and spray this ensures only air comes out and cleans your nozzle
Going to attempt to repaint the hood of my "salsa red pearl" Sienna, and this is just the kind info I was looking for, even down to the paint color. (The hood looks so bad, I figured I didnt have much to lose by trying, having never done any car paint before.) You made this look doable for a complete noob, no special equipment required. Thank you.
You do nice work...Got new door seals for my Toyota and went to your video to see how...I like getting a look at how things are attached ect, before I tear into it....removing the dash was a big hit to...the vent clips where a mystery.....Keep them coming
The background music makes this video absolutely excellent. Thank you for sharing this!!!
I'm in the process of repairing a rust spot on my car and using body filler. Now I'm up to the primer and paint work, this video helps a lot. Thank you =)
I hope you don't mind a suggestion. Next time, you should try putting an HVAC filter in one door and seal around it, then put a fan blowing out the other door. Also, you should keep your floor wet to prevent dust from being kicked up as you walk around the car.
I always appreciate good advise, thanks!
@@6thGearGarage I have swirl marks in the clear coat on my black acura...buffing for an amateur like me.???
@@heberslade3588 That's usually an easy fix with paint correction. Here's how I removed the swirl marks on my black mustang before applying ceramic coating ruclips.net/video/z2IVaqRdbOg/видео.html
@@6thGearGarage thanks very much gonna try ..regards and take care
To get rid of the orange peel without having to wet sand it afterwards : You just either add more thinner or spray thinner only on the clear and it smoothens it down.
Cool. Can you give more details?
@@brianflaherty7785 That is the trick. When you've clearcoated and it does look orange peel, you add a faire amount of thinner in your gun and spray it all over, or just thinner. Don't overspray but put slightly more than a mist. To get the hang of it, try it beforhand. Hope this helps
No. No. And no. Painter and coatings specialists of 30 years here. Spraying thinner onto an already drying product will look great for a shot time in comparison to what doing it correctly will look like. When one introduces solvents to fix a foreseeable issue they are merely degrading the properties of the material. This will lead to a shorter life of product and cause checking, or delaminating. The cohesion will be lost some, and the clear will lose some of its UV protection. The correct method is to use the retardant that is available for the product line. Another way to solve this problem is to make sure the material is atomizing correctly. The spray gun/cup gun isn’t the only quality control to check. The regulated pressure has to match specifications and the filter from the compressor needs cleaned, or purged if the guy even has one attached. To me it looked like he was moving a little slow with it and just needed to pick up the pace a bit, or turn his air down.
Yes because it was hot , and the paint gun set seems to airy ...
Using the blocks is a good idea. I was a Metal Man for 25 years I do it all. Mostly crash work I have found that on the curved areas you can do a good job using just the side of your hand and light pressure. In my opinion 800 is too fine I used to paint my color over 400 wet then 3 nice coats of clear . Either Imron or Deltron . I used to use a nice epoxy primer and did many a high dollar paint job this way. A lot of it depends on the materials you can get your hands on. Things have changed since I was in my prime in body shops.You are doing a good job and not spending a lot of money to do it.
Thank you! I'm no pro, but the car looked pretty good for a home garage job!
Is duplicolor any good? I know a compatible primer is needed.
It worked great for this project. Their clear coat is not 2k though. @@guruofendtimes819
Try covering your blend areas with an open piece of paper (not sealed with tape) to create a taper from overspray. Remove the paper before you put on the blender 👍 great video
Great tip, thanks for sharing!
from a 50 yr professional that is the way it's done
Very useful! With your use of close ups and repeated examination, this was very informative for me.
You are so easy to follow. It’s like automotive Sesame Street, thank you for explaining everything you do🤘🏼
Glad! you found it helpful!!
love the background music. so refreshing to hear classical than the techno everyone runs these days.
Yes! Or the dubstep in every video from 2008-2012. Thanks for watching!
Absolutely fantastic video in all aspects! I’m getting ready to refinish my wife’s 09 Q7 and I’m thinking I’m in for a very similar routine as you’ve shown here. Could be that the clear is still intact on my project but I now feel I’m ready if more is required. Thanks Bud - will definitely go through your channel and upcoming vids. Again, super job!
Look into getting U-Tech paint and primer. Very easy to work with and comes pre thinned. You just need to add the hardener. You can get an HVLP spray gun with 20 oz cup from Harbor Freight for $25 that will do the job nicely but you'll still need a decent sized compressor.
The key thing with any spray gun is to completely disassemble and clean between jobs.
+1 for bloopers. that's the real crap we all face every time we go to accomplish something.
I always leave them in because so many videos make projects look too easy. Gotta keep it real!
Looks pretty good. If you make your spray pattern smaller with that gun and move in closer your finish will have less orange peel. And your first coat more glossy and let it dry more so your next one's will stick to it. Hopefully ths will inspire you to get a better finish so you don't have to work so hard and have to buff as much
Thanks for the advice!
good advise
Hi there mate from Australia. Thank you for sharing your 'talents' with us all. I'm looking at a Ford Falcon today with the same issues, I'll give her a go. Love your work on the Honda, you brought her back!, Really nice work! Thanks again.
Thank you for the effort to show us your ways of doing this. Excellent video
I love the honesty of this bloke
Don't start painting in the middle of the hood. Start at the edge and work to the middle, then on the second half, start in the middle and work your way to the edge. Looks like you need a bigger nozzle for clear on your spray gun.
Right. Always keep the line wet.
Thanks for the advice 👍👍
You gotta Love this Man’s Do It Yourself Attitude.
You had a couple small mistakes but for someone working out of their garage you did a great job. Nice brother
Thanks 👍
Great video. Very well explained. I just bought a 2000 Chevy Silverado that has clear coat issues all over. I was worried about what to do, but after watching this, I'm all in on trying this.
i wish i had a garage to do this
Your time will come one day champ.
I have a garage and no room to do this. LOL
You are a hard and diligent worker!!!!! You will be a success with paint or with anything else you try! Good job. Great attitude!
Thank you so much!
Nice work. Studying this to attempt to repair my paint on my 2011 challenger.
Just subscribe
Great movie! Finally, someone showed that not everything turns out perfectly.
Thanks 6th Gear, you're awesome for putting the good the bad and the ugly on here - definitely a big help for us DYI'ers trying to do the same!
I thought your video, which depicts potential outcomes and whether they occur in daily life, was fantastic.
If you're just removing clear coat; I recommend 3M maroon or grey Scoth-brite scuff pads
Like you said, after years of doing. You never get tired of fresh slick clear. No matter how long you have done it. Don't worry about the flow indicator on vertical surface 😅
Those rattle cans got too cold or something. Nice video, thanks for the insight! I have a 2000 Toyota Tundra with the same peeling clearcoat problem, typical for early Toyotas.
Myself I worked as as owner/operator of a contractor for the city of Vancouver and our trucks were white and a pain to keep presentable . Every other wash one panel at a time I would use spray 9 and after that I would use Meguiars wash and wax. But the nice thing about the Spray Nine it has gotten rid of all the stains in the paint
This guy is like the chrisfix for paint restoration, very informative and helpful 👌🏼
Wow, thanks!
LOL Really? SMH
Just what I had in mind!
I used to love that model legend back in the day. It’s nice to see it again! 👍🏽
This was my first one and I was surprised how solid & well built it was.
@@6thGearGarage They don’t make them like that anymore. 🥴🤷🏽♂️
When laying your clear, get closer to the panel and increase your overlap. Also, use a slow activator to give the clear more time to lay and flow out.
Will do, thanks for the advice!
Exactly, this is the reason for the orange peel. Don't use slow activator on the wet coat though.
It looked like a really fast "Production" clear, used in shops so you can cut and buff about an hour after spraying.
Use the slowest hardener that your skill level and temp will allow. To reduce the orange peel you have you need to change your spraying style. Will reduce the peel if u get closer to the panel and greatly increase your speed. 75% overlap while being 6ish inches away and moving quickly will give a very smooth and full finish. Much less product waste.
perfect tip
when you mentioned putting in a link for the vintage masking paper machine i thought that was hilarious. then i checked and you actually did! obviously not vintage but was surprised, tons of youtubers say theres a link in descriptions but almost never are
100% After watching so many YT videos and not seeing the links in the desc, I add them whenever I can.
Fantastic job. Btw every body shop I’ve worked in would cut and buff each vehicle after spraying. This removed the imperfections in the clear. Even in a down draft booth something always falls on the clear.
If they were cutting and buffing every vehicle, they were spending a lot of $ on that unnecessarily and should be working to correct that. A good body shop manager would understand that and take action. A combination of a good painter, good products, good spray equipment, and good paint booth that is being maintained properly, should result in paint jobs that need no more work. I've been around the industry for a long time. Plenty of shops cut and buff rarely because the quality of the work out of the booth is very high. I remember talking to a painter about the SW HPC15 clear coat. He said he loves using it because he never has to cut or buff it. It looks perfect every time.
on a professional level that is very true I HATE when my painters have to clean up their work with a LOT A BUFFING. That being said a quick cleanup is very appropriate I seen the best spry booths deliver less than perfect results. My 30-year-old heated Seni-down booth delivers good results if the painter is conscience and knows his craft. Its ALL about the preparation. No matter how super great your spray booth is. if the prep is terrible results will be less than desirable. We are commenting on a nonprofessional in his home garage, not at our professional repair shops He is doing a fairly good job for somebody that doesn't do this as a living. For DIY folks that not too bad for what he wants to accomplish which is a finish that's OK for that year of car. It's better than is started out as. P.S. many of my family members are professional carpenters and cabinet makers so when I do some carpenter repairs, they say "not too bad for an amateur". that's the best a non-professional can expect form folks who been doing a trade for a lifetime.
Quick tip that I learned working with my dad who owned a body/paint shop turn your spray guns flow up a bit for your heavy coat because if you are moving to slow you will leave more room for errors from fatigue
You can drain the pressure on a aerosol can by turning it upside down applying a weight on it. Once the air pressure is gone, cut the can open with a can opener, pour it into your spray gun... Ready to spray with no hassles..😁
Now that's a good idea!
Thanks for leaving in the bloopers, and showing how to work around them!
You bet! I leave bloopers in whenever I can because they are the best way we can all learn 👍
Hey another little trick that works great is when you have spots down to bare metal make a small paint shield to only paint where bare metal is it helps build paint thicker to match existing paint also to when masking long bare metal sections roll your tape like a straw makes paint edge softer so you don't have a hard edge to remove
What the hell is a paint shield?
ANOTHER THING I LEARNED WAS TO USE MINWAX CRYSTAL CLEAR WATER BASE CLEAR. IT'S VERY CHEAP AND LOOKS GREAT AND LASTS IN THE WEATHER. WORKS GREAT ON BOATS. TRY IT, YOU'LL BE GLAD YOU DID.
Dude, this is the best DIY video I have ever seen. You had me cracking up at times. Expecily the helper that works for 15 animal crackers an hour😂. 👍
Thanks a lot!!
Hose behind back and over shoulder really helps keep it clear while giving you ample reach over hood and roof of vehicle.
EK90s look great on G1 Legend, going to have my G1 to sorted out soon.
Yeah, my black Nissan started doing this a few years ago...rapidly getting worse. Roof, back trunk are bad and now back side drivers 1/4 panel...which faces the sun 99% of the time. The rest of the car (hood especially) is perfectly fine! Ugh! Thanks for this!
I don't think orange peel is that big of a deal, better than developing rust over time. You did a fantastic job, I'm hoping to redo my Camry this summer. I don't have a garage so I'll probably just use an easy up and take my chances at it not being perfect.
I don't have a garage either. Did you finish your project outdoor? How did it go?
@@antonp.372 funny you ask, I actually have a recent video on my channel where I painted my own motorcycle gas tank under my carport.
The key the painting in your garage is make sure you leave those garage doors totally closed, and also keep your floor wet because every time you walk around whether you realize it or not there is dirt kicked up regardless of how good you clean the floor and keeping the floor wet will help keep the dust from kicking up. You got a lot of dirt in that paint and those are very very hard to sand out as you wind up dragging that dirt across the entire panel.
For the blending areas to go better search "back taping" or "Back masking". Your skill is certainly above average, but this will really improve your game. When you wet sand use your dominant hand, and with your other hold either a water bottle with a tiny hole and allow that to drip over your sanding area, OR you can hold a micro fiber shop towel loaded with water, and use a bucket at your feet to recharge it, and squeeze and drip water where you want it.
Thanks for the advice!
@@6thGearGarage You are welcome. The last bit I did not see is to wet the floor before you spray. This traps dust and crud from lifting. Especially helpful lower on the doors.
good advice for wet sanding I've been doing autobody since 1969 and still doing it in my own shop; excellent advice. that's a lot of sanding and compounding but for an amateur not half bad using rattle can color and clearing in a less than ideal conditions. As mentioned in another comment keep you gun closer to the panel and paint the entire roof first before painting the lower body makes for less overspray on the entire car.
You seem like a very nice guy, i also like the way you speak! Good video & great job. God bless you & your family!
Thank you!!
Okay, first rattle can paint job I've seen some one do, that's awesome 👍
Thanks! Even though it could have gone better, I was happy with the way it turned out. I painted an entire Honda Civic with rustoleum spray cans maybe 15 years ago and it actually came out great as well. I think this is the only video I have of the car and it's pretty dusty: ruclips.net/video/20USP8FEigU/видео.html
Thats all well an good but wat about moister under the primer ?? I would have taking that back to bare metal an do the job right..
I don't think going to bare metal is needed, there was no rust.
I love your energy and how detailed your video is.
Thank you so much!
Good stuff. I have some clear coat that keeps peeling on sections of my 4Runner, this helps give me some ideas as I don’t want to sand and completely repaint vs salvaging and re-clear coating. There is just no easy solution. Appreciate you documenting your work. BTW, I love that Land Cruiser!
Yeah, your best bet is to catch it early before it gets as bad as it was on this Legend.
I have always wanted one of the older Toyota Land Cruisers. The ones that are kind of like a Jeep but with more Windows in the back with the 2 Side Seats. I had a Friend that had one, and it would go anywhere.👍
Those Acura Legends are very reliable cars. Take care of them and they take care of you. Great video!
Thanks! I ended up trading it but it really was such a solid car.
Moral of the story is don't buy paint from ebay. I immediately knew the problem when you said it had paint on nozzle. People test color and return paint. So many unethical people on eBay and else where.
I never watch long videos, this one I enjoyed every last minute and learned so much. Got yourself another sub brother! 🏴
Thanks!
I understand your desire for wanting to take the tape off before the paint dries but you're taking a big chance on dropping additional dirt into the clear and having it stick. More dirt is more work. I know you know that. Good video though. I like your tip about the tiger striping.
I find there's a narrow window in which I try to remove the tape where the paint isn't 100% dry but not too tacky to allow anything to stick.
Tell you what, you have a amazing attitude and seems you are always in a good mood. Me on the other hand would of had red paint all over my shop from 3 cans of paint slamed against the wall...lol
I've calmed down as I've gotten older lol. Funny story in the mid 2000s I was working on an EK civic with a lights dimming/charging problem and I had narrowed it down to the alternator. They say it's possible to remove the alternator without taking out the driver's axle, and it was barely possible. I was so pissed by the time I got the alternator out of the engine bay that I threw it on the concrete and hit it with a big hammer, breaking the finned part of the aluminum housing. Then after I installed the new alternator, the problem was still there - ended up being a bad connection in the fuse box. I smashed a perfectly good alternator! Over the years I've learned when it's time to take a break lol
@@6thGearGarage haha. Yeah i did similar things through the years and most of the time i regretted after.. Anyway love your videos
Quick tip, dont forget to change the timing chain on it, my sister had an acura legend, and it got totalled after the timing chain flew apart, the valves hit the pistons, and that was the end of that car
I’ve made a paint booth in my garage and to keep from getting dirt and garbage on the paint I closed off everything and I opened two areas and made ventilation with a few house filters taped together and a fan attached to that with another filter protecting the fan pushing air out from the paint booth and the other one was pulling air in and it worked good. Another time I actually made a paint booth with pvc piping 6 mil plastic and a few rolls of duck tape and taped in a few filters on each side and just built it around the car
I did something similar here: ruclips.net/video/2dJj15N_TC8/видео.html Next time I paint something large, I'm going that route again for sure. It was all going well until someone mowed the lawn lol.
Looks great! Thanks
The great thing about clear coat is you can fix your mistakes much like back in the day when I used to paint with lacquer. Just went sand and buff and the imperfections are gone.
boy o' boy another lacquer painter. those were the days when you could paint out in the open shop without too much worrying about dirt and clear coating. A little color coat sanding if needed and that compounding. I like the new technology better. Who wants to use a Sioux Brand buffer to compound paint (P.S. they felt like they weighted a ton).
Most of your orange peel is likely due to having a too high distance while spraying in all layers. Your color coat was already very rough and you might have benefited from having your color harden out, sand it with 800 and put a wet coat of color on top of that. With a metallic, wet sanding color is usually a no-no, so you would have to put on quite a bit of paint on top of where you sanded. No sense in keeping on painting without correction once you see your surface is so incredibly rough.
For the clear with the spray gun, you can reduce your pressure just a bit so you can slow down the gun a bit and spray closer, so putting down a nice wet coat without runs is easier to do. Watch "Paint Society" for some great tips on how to prevent this bad of an orange peel with distance, pressure and fan settings on your gun.
I recently replaced the side view mirror on my daughter’s car after she hit a mailbox & obliterated the original. Ordered a new mirror skin and Duplicolor spray cans of the adhesion promoter, base coat, and clear coat. Each can had zero issues with the paint leaking at the nozzle before it arrived or after I started using it. I don’t know what company you ordered your base coat from, but all that leaking isn’t normal for a quality product. Makes me think of stuff I’ve ordered off eBay over the years. All of it was substandard garbage made in China. You did a great job with what you had, but fyi, I’ve found that ordering quality name brand stuff off Amazon always works out better than anything I order off eBay, wether it’s cheap or not.
I actually went to Duplicolor first, after using their Perfect Match paint in the past. However, this Phoenix Red must be a rare color because they didn't carry it. Next time I'm just buying a quart and skipping the aerosol cans.
Chris Fix his Soapy water 🤣🤣
Always have some soapy wooder on hand 😂
great job, after years of paint and body, I have learned to 'wrap'... nowadays I would wetsand all that dryed up clear and then, wrap it !.. wrap is alot like paint, the way the surface looks before wrapping is the way it will look after wrapping.. will the bad paint lift off when repositioning the wrap? buy some cheap wrap and test various areas, when repositioning the wrap, fresh painted area will sometimes pull off the car, wet sand down to the primer and try again :D another trick, for runs, use spot filler and fill the valley of the run, then block sand the 'crest until its perfect, this way , no burning through the new clear God Bless
Someday I would like to try a wrap!
Perfect timing, planning to respray my G1 Legend too!
that 1/4 body line is nice and sharp, perfect for using rolled tape edge ( will soften clear coat line) then spot blender on top of 1/4. would minimze the visable blend to just a lil bit on top of 1.4. grab a flashlight and turn off the lights when yopu think your done base, coverage will show up much better .....also your really need a wet on wet sealer for those burn throughs,...... always expect tons of comments from fellow body/paint guys when doing these kinda vids.. we love sharing knowledge and tips. obviously you cant expect paint shop quality from rattle cans and no air.
Thank you for all the advice & tips!
Dude, don’t ruin your clay bar on areas you are going to paint. Just use soft scrub or bar keeper helper cleaner on those areas with loose paint. It will lift up a lot of rotten clear coat and also lift up most oxidation and dirt from the exposed paint and make it look a lot better. Another tip, use an old credit card as a scraper to remove the white rotten clearcoat bubbly areas. Use warm soapy water with the credit card scrapper. The plastic card won’t scratch the paint. Works great!
Great tip, thanks!
I think this is quite a commendable job for what you did it with dude well done don’t knock yourself to hard .nice one 👍
Thanks 👍
This guys sounds like Chris Fixx brother.
Haha thanks! It's an honor to be mentioned in the same sentence as the G.O.A.T.
I love your commentary.
At least you know your imperfections. I was surprised why didn’t you spray (color corrected ) this entire car with a spray gun. It would look so great !
Anyway, great video ❗️
At first I only planned on touching up the hood and roof, so I bought the two aerosol cans. Then I decided to fix the bumpers too, so I needed another can. At that point I wished I had just bought a quart of color to apply with the spray gun, but I couldn't return the first 2 cans. However, as you saw, the cans were not the best solution. I will spray the color with a gun next time. The rest of the car's finish was in good condition, so I did not want to repaint it all.
What pressure where you spraying at? To me it look like you gun was surging an thats got to do with pressure your compressor is the wrong size its working to hard .an sorry mate just trying to help dont do a tack coat an leave it go straigjt back over it it look heaps dry.
I don't recall the pressure, but compressor had no prob keeping up