A couple of years ago, I standardized on the ER20 tool holders from Yinsheng with a Tormach TTS collet. I've used them for manual tool changes and I bought enough to keep most of my tools in collet holders to speed things up. I'm finally getting around to CNCing my Grizzly G1006 mill and I'll be adding a power draw bar soon (design is finished, parts are here, waiting for the round tuit). I'm even thinking of eventually building an ATC (design is mostly finished, no parts are ordered but I did plan ahead when assigning I/O in the CNC conversion process). I don't plan on needing the finger slots on the side of the tool holders. If I did, I'd make the radial slots on my lathe. Great G0704 CNC videos! Thanks! I'm uploading G1006 CNC conversion videos if you're interested. Search for "Turd Polishing CNC".
You could also buy end mills with smaller shanks. For example, if the ER20 only goes up to half inch, and you want to run a 1 inch end mill, just buy a 1 inch end mill with a half inch shank. You can even do this in reverse (smaller end mills with larger shanks).
Thanks I just ordered and er 32 collet chuck and saw in very inconsistent ring I thought I was swindled! they are made that way! thanks for putting my mind at ease!
Thanks for posting! You have a ton of great videos that are 100% relevant to my current projects. I've recently been contemplating adding some TTS holders to test out with my CNC'd G0704 (with a PDB in the future). I'll probably get a bunch of TTS ER20 collet chucks to start out. It's good to physically see the differences between each size.
+russtuff I have started using the TTS style holders. I love the z-axis repeatability. However, I am getting tool holder pullout without pushing the cutters that hard. Everything is clean and installed per Tormach's recommendations except for the drawbar torque. The stock G0704 drawbar has such small, soft wrench flats that I'm hesitant to really torque it down like it should be for TTS (main reason for me wanting a PDB is to avoid retorquing for each tool change). Have you ever had this issue? How much do you tighten your drawbar?
+Derek K Hey Derek. I had that same problem for ages, until I started doing the following: 1. Brake Cleaner the R8 collet 2. Brake Cleaner the Tool Holder shaft 3. Thin film of any type of oil inside the spindle taper 4. Tighten the drawbar to 85% my total strength using that little 8mm wrench that came with the mill I know it seems ridiculous and for a long time I thought I was going to destroy the drawbar by getting on it to hard, but it's held up just fine. Now I'm just an average guy who doesn't work out, so if you're ripped then maybe just go 50% total strength :)
Good vid bud, I probably could use ER16's for all my tiny endmills, I use loads of 'em. I've got around 50 ER20's and use them all, but when I need more maybe I'll get some 16's. Have you mounted an endmill and measured runout with a DTI yet? Shank has to stick out at least 1/16". Rotating the toolholder in the spindle will completely change your reading, so rotate till it's near zero, mark it, then always install it there ;-).
They are out there, but I always hear about their inherently having more runout due to the clamping load on the endmill only applying to one side of the shank (on the weldon flat). I should try some anyway. They are very economical.
We skipped er20 when setting up our shop, and its something I regret. We use CCK3/4 and er16 (which cover basically the same tool range, and have virtually the same cap OD. We also use TG100, which also covers the same range, but is ultimately worse in near every category (larger nut, more runout..) I like the bearing style collet nuts, but they're spendy. Solid holders do usually have more runout, but they're cheap and will usually provide the most clearance (short of shrink fit)
The ER32 goes up to 3/4 (or there about) You also could have just gotten an ER11 holder on a 1/2 or 8mm shank and just chucked it up in the ER32. One other thing is I have the ER32 for my X2 mill and also have the same size on my wood lathe and metal lathe. One set of collets for all. Only thing I really want now is a pair of ER32 collet blocks.
If you want even more clearence you may want to look into either making or buying dedicated endmill holders...the ER series are better then R8 for clamping power but there is still a risk that the endmill can be pulled out of the collet,especialy in a climb cut in aluminum , brass or other "clingy"material.You need more holders if you go dedicated but they have a setscrew that engages with the flat on the shaft of the endmill to ensure there is no vertical movement of the tool....they also usualy have much narrower noses on them...Unsure whether there are any made that fit the tormach quickchange system but they are definetaly worth having
Theres never an issue with having too many tools...well accept the broke as hell syndrome that tends to happen lol.Theres a lot of people out there that never have an issue with an endmill slipping in a collet so no need to make it a priority.I mainly mentioned them because you were after more tool holder clearence and they do add a real safety margin on a cnc machine...on a manual mill if your endmill pulls out you destroy the part,the endmill and maybe nick your vice...on a cnc, rapid travel with a tool thats a good bit longer then its supposed to be can get very ugly very fast!
Anyone having endmills moving on them in ER collets might want to review what the closing torque is for the various ER series. At each ones maximum holding diameter ER 16 is 30-40 ft. lbs, ER 20 50-55 ft.lbs, ER 32 90-110 ft.lbs, ER 40 120-130 ft.lbs. Those torque numbers are quite a bit higher than the average person can apply with any of the short collet nut wrenches that are supplied with the chucks.As the tool shank diameter gets smaller you can step the torque down a bit.The tool shank, chucks taper and collets bore and there slots needs to be dry and oil or coolant free as well. The only place where oil should be used is on the collet chucks O.D. threads for the nut.Buying cheap collet chucks and collets is another false saving as there a primary tool holder and it's a poor idea to ever go dirt cheap with work or tool holders. Higher runout numbers causes vibration under cutting conditions as the cutting loads cycle up and down. My guess is it's that vibration that's also not helping the collets grip. I've never once had a tool move in my Bison chuck and collets. Since the Tormach quick change system uses basically a slightly modified R 8 collet for the quick change tool holders and ER chucks and your having problems with endmills moving in the ER collets Mountainman then it seems the R 8 is holding just fine? Properly torqued, clean and oil free R 8's hold and have proven they can do so for a very long time if there used within there design limits.
Not to be nitpicky but when you measured the amount of stick out on the ER20 vs ER32 the smaller ground point is what you seem to be pointing out on the ER32 and the larger ground point is what you measure on the ER20. Not a huge amount of difference but the number would be large.
+Captian Morgan Good catch, I think you're the only other person to notice that mistake :) When I say 1.650" stickout, I'm actually referring to the larger ground point while accidentally pointing to the smaller ground point. My words are correct, but my hands are in the wrong place. When I later put the end mill into the other holder and say stickout is .050" more, I am correctly stating the additional stickout but making it confusing to anyone who notices the same thing you did.
I don't view the ER series of collets as what I would use for holding mill bits. The collets I have for that purpose are far more compact than any of the ER series. I think the main purpose of an ER collet is to hold large round stock or parts on a lathe or rotary table. For that I have focused on the ER-32 because it is pretty large but is still supported well by low cost off-the-shelf collet sets. The prices seem to sky-rocket with the larger ER's.
ER collets are tool holding collets - they are designed specifically for holding tools, not work. If you want work holding collets, the C series collets are a good way to go.
Sell the smaller ER chucks, buy a 1/8ths reamer , make a shrink-fit holder for your tiny endmills; something like 3/4" shank into 1/8" bore. The 1/8th's reamer has to be undersize by 1 thou on the radius.
Shrink fit holders require the tool and holder be of different materials (different coefficient of expansion), to get the tools back OUT, yes? So, this approach would allow only carbide tooling? Or, disposable holders ;)
Good point. I didn't get into the smaller ER series because currently no one makes TTS compatible collet chucks. I have an ER11 high-frequency spindle and those collets are just tiny! I believe that if you asked Yinsheng to make you a TTS ER11 they could do it, but since Tormach dropped their prices I haven't bothered to buy from anyone else..... yet.
for 1/8 Er11 is even better suited. There is no universal Chuck for any purpose. These chucks are relative cheap*, so buying 2-3 of them is the best way to go. 1 for small endmills , 1 for medium and one for large endmills :D. *What is more pricey are the collets
Yinsheng still makes them I belive, but Tormach does not make an ER11 to my knowledge. I am not sure if the Yinsheng ER11s will have the TTS ring that Tormach uses. I would email Yinsheng and just ask. They are great to work with and will do business right through your email if you like. Someone I know just picked up a ton of their holders and they are still getting something like .0002" runout on them. I intend to grab a couple dozen of their ER16s in the near future.
Out of curiosity what is the difference between this and a holder that is the same size of the endmill? I have one of these holders with a built in collet and idk what tools I should put in it? Can I do ball heads and chamfers and all that jazz?
Are you referring to set screw end mill holders? If so, the only difference I'm aware of is that ER holders like this may be more concentric with the spindle. I would think you could run any end mill that fits in either style, as you'll want to check for run out regardless.
good tip! didn't you have someone make a bunch of yours? it seems like in an old video (X2 days) you mentioned someone made them for you, or hooked you up with some, or something..... i plan on ordering a bunch more holders pretty soon, the number depending on how much cash i have laying around after some other upcoming projects ;)
Russ good video. You helped me make a decision on the size collets I want for my g0704. What about a sources for the collets. The prices range from insanely cheap chinese collets up to fairly expensive. Where do you buy collets. Any experience with the very cheap ones? Steve mckay
+trottrr50 s YS makes decent ones for about $5. Maritool is what I'd buy if I weren't so cheap. I just this week ordered 25 cheapos on ebay from a couple different sources I've never tried. I just went as cheap as I could find and we'll see how they are in a month when they arrive from China. It ended up being less than $2 per collet, shipped.
russtuff I will look at the sellers you suggested. I am currently working on a cnc conversion of a g0704. Going to do same as you did eventually with a vfd and big spindle motor. Does that motor have an encoder on it? What software are you currently using, mach4 or linuxcnc? I just got finished taking cnc classes at a local community college. The classes were excellent but they kind of soured me on mach3 as there are g-codes that are missing from the standard fanuc set. Class used a haas lathe and mill that were fantastic to use. Have a nice holiday today. Steve mckay
+trottrr50 s The motor does have an encoder but it's to high resolution to be useful. More to come on that in a later video. I've only ever used LinuxCNC. Mach has zero appeal to me because of all the stability issues I'm always hearing about.
Its the cavity opening in MM, a mostly useless number for anyone using them. The only useful thing being that it will be CLOSE to the maximum diameter of the collet itself. Yeah, like I said, useless.
For aluminum, I have been really happy with some HSS high helix end mills from latheinserts.com. I actually have footage for a video I'll be posting where I use one of his 1/4" end mills but I haven't had time to edit it :P Go here: www.latheinserts.com/SUPER-HSS-END-MILLS-FOR-ALUMINUM_c153.htm
I need one that fits my morse 3 spindle, I thought that the er 32 did because I seen some comparisons with the er 40 and I'm pretty sure that one is. am I way off here? the mill I have has small travel but the main problem is that the spindle doesn't even come close to reaching the table so I'm needing to add some length to my spindle and not having to mess with the drawbar every five mins is a big plus. any nfo or advices is needed and appreciated..
@Russtuff Great Video! Is there any benefit of using these Collets over a Standard R8 Collet? I been using R8 collets for my End Mills just curious about others. Thanks in Advance
The reason I use it is so I can swap tools more quickly. These holders go right into my R8 collet from Tormach and I can take them out by just loosening the drawbar a half turn.
Not on this machine. The larger ER series collets likely do offer more rigidity, but since this machine is not very rigid anyway, I can't imagine there being a difference when using something larger than ER16. There has been no difference in my personal experience.
Yes, Tormach has a 3/4" R8 collet for sale, and that is what the ER collects are captured by. The reason you need Tormach's R8 collet is that it is ground flat on the end instead of domed like a regular R8 collet.
I know this may sound crazy, but what do you think of the possibility of blowing air through the spindle down to the bit since the collet itself has lots of openings or air to flow through?
Hello my friend nice videos!!!, Do you hace any advice about buying cutting tools, I bought a zx45 mill to convert, and the vice you recomend, by the way my name is Juan Pablo from Argentina, thanks a lot for the videos!!
+Juan Silicia Hi Juan. Very cool about your new ZX45. That looks like a fantastic machine. If you're looking for good/cheap carbide end mills, I would consider North Bay Cutting Tools on eBay. You can find their store at: stores.ebay.com/North-Bay-Cutting-Tools?_rdc=1 For good HSS end mills (which I don't recommend for any deep pocketing) I really like these: latheinserts.com/SUPER-HSS-END-MILLS-FOR-ALUMINUM_c153.htm
hello there thanks for your share , tho my machine spindle adopt ER11 collet 3.175mm size. and i got other bigger shanks such as 9.5 and 12.5 dia endmill to use on my my cnc3020 i need to mill a aluminum block for making a mold for injection molding, do i need more then just a new collet ? cuz i was thinking about buying this one www.ebay.com/itm/361440029113 and i know this one has to fit in my current black ring? im not sure whats the name of that i thought the whole assembly was called collet but when i search ER11 Collet they only show me the inner piece and not the part that screws into my spindle, so why is that part called? and more importantly if i get a 9.5 collet do i need to buy another one of those rings to screw into my spindle?
+Frank Lopez Yes that collet should work fine in your ER11 collet holder/chuck. In my experience there are only three parts: 1. The collet holder/chuck is the what holds the collet 2. The collet itself 3. The collet nut (In my video the collet nuts are black) which clamps the collet into the holder You should not need a new nut to make a new collet work in the collet holder.
+russtuff thanks , tho i got a bit that the diameter is way thicker than the er11 collet can hold "3.175mm" it's 12.5mm dia? and the er11 only take 3.175mm ? but if i remove the collet i do have a end mill that is 6.3mm dia? and that fits right in the nut so does this mean i can just get a collet that is 6.5? and use that with my nut since the er11 takes up to 7mm collet ?
+Frank Lopez If the shaft of your end mill is 6.3mm then you're really right between the range of what either a 6mm or a 7mm collet can handle so I'm not sure which one would work. You may have to buy both and see.
russtuff wel i thought that but i also thought that if i ask someone who seem to know their stuff i dont have to guess or take that gamble your asking me to take, i mean whats the whole point of the collet being springy in nature if is not to compensate? whats the point of the screw nut if is not to tie up any contacts between the in between like in my case?
+Frank Lopez You're correct, however, there are specific ranges for each collet. For instance here is a 6mm and a 7mm from Maritool who make excellent tools and a great price: www.maritool.com/Collets-ER-Collets-ER11-Collets/c21_56_60/index.html If you click their 6mm and 7mm collets you will see these ranges: .2162-.2362" (5.49-5.99mm) .2556-.2756" (6.49-7.00mm) This means neither a 6mm or 7mm collet may fit your 6.3mm tool. You may be able to use their 1/4" collet though, as it has a range of .2300-.2500" (5.84-6.35mm).
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Very articulate and straight to the point,exactly what I wanted know .Thank you.
My man!!! Thank you so much; simple, straight to the point!
A couple of years ago, I standardized on the ER20 tool holders from Yinsheng with a Tormach TTS collet. I've used them for manual tool changes and I bought enough to keep most of my tools in collet holders to speed things up. I'm finally getting around to CNCing my Grizzly G1006 mill and I'll be adding a power draw bar soon (design is finished, parts are here, waiting for the round tuit). I'm even thinking of eventually building an ATC (design is mostly finished, no parts are ordered but I did plan ahead when assigning I/O in the CNC conversion process). I don't plan on needing the finger slots on the side of the tool holders. If I did, I'd make the radial slots on my lathe.
Great G0704 CNC videos! Thanks! I'm uploading G1006 CNC conversion videos if you're interested. Search for "Turd Polishing CNC".
Liberty4Ever Cool, I'll definitely follow your conversion!
You could also buy end mills with smaller shanks. For example, if the ER20 only goes up to half inch, and you want to run a 1 inch end mill, just buy a 1 inch end mill with a half inch shank. You can even do this in reverse (smaller end mills with larger shanks).
Thanks for the comments Rob!
Thanks I just ordered and er 32 collet chuck and saw in very inconsistent ring I thought I was swindled! they are made that way! thanks for putting my mind at ease!
Jace Walton Thanks for watching!
Thanks for posting! You have a ton of great videos that are 100% relevant to my current projects.
I've recently been contemplating adding some TTS holders to test out with my CNC'd G0704 (with a PDB in the future). I'll probably get a bunch of TTS ER20 collet chucks to start out.
It's good to physically see the differences between each size.
+Derek K I'm glad it was useful. Thanks for watching :)
+russtuff I have started using the TTS style holders. I love the z-axis repeatability. However, I am getting tool holder pullout without pushing the cutters that hard. Everything is clean and installed per Tormach's recommendations except for the drawbar torque. The stock G0704 drawbar has such small, soft wrench flats that I'm hesitant to really torque it down like it should be for TTS (main reason for me wanting a PDB is to avoid retorquing for each tool change).
Have you ever had this issue? How much do you tighten your drawbar?
+Derek K Hey Derek. I had that same problem for ages, until I started doing the following:
1. Brake Cleaner the R8 collet
2. Brake Cleaner the Tool Holder shaft
3. Thin film of any type of oil inside the spindle taper
4. Tighten the drawbar to 85% my total strength using that little 8mm wrench that came with the mill
I know it seems ridiculous and for a long time I thought I was going to destroy the drawbar by getting on it to hard, but it's held up just fine. Now I'm just an average guy who doesn't work out, so if you're ripped then maybe just go 50% total strength :)
This was exactly the information I was looking for Thanks!!!
Good vid bud, I probably could use ER16's for all my tiny endmills, I use loads of 'em. I've got around 50 ER20's and use them all, but when I need more maybe I'll get some 16's. Have you mounted an endmill and measured runout with a DTI yet? Shank has to stick out at least 1/16". Rotating the toolholder in the spindle will completely change your reading, so rotate till it's near zero, mark it, then always install it there ;-).
I did have a friend make a bunch but I sold them all with my X2, the ones I use now are all Tormach.
They are out there, but I always hear about their inherently having more runout due to the clamping load on the endmill only applying to one side of the shank (on the weldon flat). I should try some anyway. They are very economical.
There are some 9/16" (a bit larger than 1/2") collets for ER20 available. The ER20 is also a bit cheaper compared to the ER32.
We skipped er20 when setting up our shop, and its something I regret. We use CCK3/4 and er16 (which cover basically the same tool range, and have virtually the same cap OD. We also use TG100, which also covers the same range, but is ultimately worse in near every category (larger nut, more runout..)
I like the bearing style collet nuts, but they're spendy. Solid holders do usually have more runout, but they're cheap and will usually provide the most clearance (short of shrink fit)
The ER32 goes up to 3/4 (or there about)
You also could have just gotten an ER11 holder on a 1/2 or 8mm shank and just chucked it up in the ER32.
One other thing is I have the ER32 for my X2 mill and also have the same size on my wood lathe and metal lathe. One set of collets for all. Only thing I really want now is a pair of ER32 collet blocks.
If you want even more clearence you may want to look into either making or buying dedicated endmill holders...the ER series are better then R8 for clamping power but there is still a risk that the endmill can be pulled out of the collet,especialy in a climb cut in aluminum , brass or other "clingy"material.You need more holders if you go dedicated but they have a setscrew that engages with the flat on the shaft of the endmill to ensure there is no vertical movement of the tool....they also usualy have much narrower noses on them...Unsure whether there are any made that fit the tormach quickchange system but they are definetaly worth having
+mountainmanfab I keep meaning to order some but never have. I'll have to make that a priority :)
Theres never an issue with having too many tools...well accept the broke as hell syndrome that tends to happen lol.Theres a lot of people out there that never have an issue with an endmill slipping in a collet so no need to make it a priority.I mainly mentioned them because you were after more tool holder clearence and they do add a real safety margin on a cnc machine...on a manual mill if your endmill pulls out you destroy the part,the endmill and maybe nick your vice...on a cnc, rapid travel with a tool thats a good bit longer then its supposed to be can get very ugly very fast!
Anyone having endmills moving on them in ER collets might want to review what the closing torque is for the various ER series. At each ones maximum holding diameter ER 16 is 30-40 ft. lbs, ER 20 50-55 ft.lbs, ER 32 90-110 ft.lbs, ER 40 120-130 ft.lbs. Those torque numbers are quite a bit higher than the average person can apply with any of the short collet nut wrenches that are supplied with the chucks.As the tool shank diameter gets smaller you can step the torque down a bit.The tool shank, chucks taper and collets bore and there slots needs to be dry and oil or coolant free as well. The only place where oil should be used is on the collet chucks O.D. threads for the nut.Buying cheap collet chucks and collets is another false saving as there a primary tool holder and it's a poor idea to ever go dirt cheap with work or tool holders. Higher runout numbers causes vibration under cutting conditions as the cutting loads cycle up and down. My guess is it's that vibration that's also not helping the collets grip. I've never once had a tool move in my Bison chuck and collets.
Since the Tormach quick change system uses basically a slightly modified R 8 collet for the quick change tool holders and ER chucks and your having problems with endmills moving in the ER collets Mountainman then it seems the R 8 is holding just fine? Properly torqued, clean and oil free R 8's hold and have proven they can do so for a very long time if there used within there design limits.
Not to be nitpicky but when you measured the amount of stick out on the ER20 vs ER32 the smaller ground point is what you seem to be pointing out on the ER32 and the larger ground point is what you measure on the ER20. Not a huge amount of difference but the number would be large.
+Captian Morgan Good catch, I think you're the only other person to notice that mistake :)
When I say 1.650" stickout, I'm actually referring to the larger ground point while accidentally pointing to the smaller ground point. My words are correct, but my hands are in the wrong place. When I later put the end mill into the other holder and say stickout is .050" more, I am correctly stating the additional stickout but making it confusing to anyone who notices the same thing you did.
Great,helpful vid. Thank you.
+cappnzak Thanks for watching!
Large end of the taper in mm. There are versions of 8,11,16,20.25,32,40, and 50
I don't view the ER series of collets as what I would use for holding mill bits. The collets I have for that purpose are far more compact than any of the ER series. I think the main purpose of an ER collet is to hold large round stock or parts on a lathe or rotary table. For that I have focused on the ER-32 because it is pretty large but is still supported well by low cost off-the-shelf collet sets. The prices seem to sky-rocket with the larger ER's.
ER collets are tool holding collets - they are designed specifically for holding tools, not work.
If you want work holding collets, the C series collets are a good way to go.
Excellent video. Very helpful.
Thanks!
Sell the smaller ER chucks, buy a 1/8ths reamer , make a shrink-fit holder for your tiny endmills; something like 3/4" shank into 1/8" bore. The 1/8th's reamer has to be undersize by 1 thou on the radius.
Shrink fit holders require the tool and holder be of different materials (different coefficient of expansion), to get the tools back OUT, yes? So, this approach would allow only carbide tooling? Or, disposable holders ;)
you should know there's an ER-11 series of collets. It's a 1/4" capacity. For small end mills it's the way to go.
Good point. I didn't get into the smaller ER series because currently no one makes TTS compatible collet chucks. I have an ER11 high-frequency spindle and those collets are just tiny!
I believe that if you asked Yinsheng to make you a TTS ER11 they could do it, but since Tormach dropped their prices I haven't bothered to buy from anyone else..... yet.
Great video. Perfect 4 a newbie loke myself
+Pablo Hernández thanks!
Great info..
you should invest in some solid tool holders for you end mills, if available.
for 1/8 Er11 is even better suited. There is no universal Chuck for any purpose. These chucks are relative cheap*, so buying 2-3 of them is the best way to go. 1 for small endmills , 1 for medium and one for large endmills :D. *What is more pricey are the collets
Agreed. I need to get some ER11.
Yinsheng still makes them I belive, but Tormach does not make an ER11 to my knowledge. I am not sure if the Yinsheng ER11s will have the TTS ring that Tormach uses. I would email Yinsheng and just ask. They are great to work with and will do business right through your email if you like. Someone I know just picked up a ton of their holders and they are still getting something like .0002" runout on them. I intend to grab a couple dozen of their ER16s in the near future.
oh you got the X2 sold? nice. it seemed like it was hanging out in the background for quite a while... being sad :(
Out of curiosity what is the difference between this and a holder that is the same size of the endmill? I have one of these holders with a built in collet and idk what tools I should put in it? Can I do ball heads and chamfers and all that jazz?
Are you referring to set screw end mill holders? If so, the only difference I'm aware of is that ER holders like this may be more concentric with the spindle. I would think you could run any end mill that fits in either style, as you'll want to check for run out regardless.
@@russtuff yup! thanks!
thank you for this information
Thanks for watching!
good tip! didn't you have someone make a bunch of yours? it seems like in an old video (X2 days) you mentioned someone made them for you, or hooked you up with some, or something.....
i plan on ordering a bunch more holders pretty soon, the number depending on how much cash i have laying around after some other upcoming projects ;)
Russ good video. You helped me make a decision on the size collets I want for my g0704. What about a sources for the collets. The prices range from insanely cheap chinese collets up to fairly expensive. Where do you buy collets. Any experience with the very cheap ones? Steve mckay
+trottrr50 s YS makes decent ones for about $5. Maritool is what I'd buy if I weren't so cheap. I just this week ordered 25 cheapos on ebay from a couple different sources I've never tried. I just went as cheap as I could find and we'll see how they are in a month when they arrive from China. It ended up being less than $2 per collet, shipped.
russtuff I will look at the sellers you suggested. I am currently working on a cnc conversion of a g0704. Going to do same as you did eventually with a vfd and big spindle motor. Does that motor have an encoder on it? What software are you currently using, mach4 or linuxcnc? I just got finished taking cnc classes at a local community college. The classes were excellent but they kind of soured me on mach3 as there are g-codes that are missing from the standard fanuc set. Class used a haas lathe and mill that were fantastic to use. Have a nice holiday today. Steve mckay
+trottrr50 s The motor does have an encoder but it's to high resolution to be useful. More to come on that in a later video.
I've only ever used LinuxCNC. Mach has zero appeal to me because of all the stability issues I'm always hearing about.
I would be interested to learn what the number designation actually means, like is it 32 millimeters in diameter?
Its the cavity opening in MM, a mostly useless number for anyone using them. The only useful thing being that it will be CLOSE to the maximum diameter of the collet itself. Yeah, like I said, useless.
How are they connected to the machine?
Thanks!
Great video, thanks for sharing. Btw, who makes the 1/2" end mill you referenced in your video?
For aluminum, I have been really happy with some HSS high helix end mills from latheinserts.com. I actually have footage for a video I'll be posting where I use one of his 1/4" end mills but I haven't had time to edit it :P
Go here: www.latheinserts.com/SUPER-HSS-END-MILLS-FOR-ALUMINUM_c153.htm
I need one that fits my morse 3 spindle, I thought that the er 32 did because I seen some comparisons with the er 40 and I'm pretty sure that one is. am I way off here? the mill I have has small travel but the main problem is that the spindle doesn't even come close to reaching the table so I'm needing to add some length to my spindle and not having to mess with the drawbar every five mins is a big plus. any nfo or advices is needed and appreciated..
www.shars.com/mt3-er32-er-collet-holder
@Russtuff Great Video! Is there any benefit of using these Collets over a Standard R8 Collet? I been using R8 collets for my End Mills just curious about others. Thanks in Advance
The reason I use it is so I can swap tools more quickly. These holders go right into my R8 collet from Tormach and I can take them out by just loosening the drawbar a half turn.
will the er16 cut worse in aluminum with a 3/8 endmill than bigger sizes of er collets?
Not on this machine. The larger ER series collets likely do offer more rigidity, but since this machine is not very rigid anyway, I can't imagine there being a difference when using something larger than ER16. There has been no difference in my personal experience.
is the inside of the collet chuck tapered to match the OD of the collet? or is the clamping force just applied by the nut its self?
Yes, the inside of the chuck has a taper that matches the collet's OD.
I know this is an older video. How does the Tormoc collet tool holder fit into the R 8 spindle on the Grizzly G0704? Is there an adapter?
Yes, Tormach has a 3/4" R8 collet for sale, and that is what the ER collects are captured by. The reason you need Tormach's R8 collet is that it is ground flat on the end instead of domed like a regular R8 collet.
I know this may sound crazy, but what do you think of the possibility of blowing air through the spindle down to the bit since the collet itself has lots of openings or air to flow through?
+ExtantFrodo2 Big commercial machines do it with coolant-through tooling, so it is definitely possible. But I have no clue how they actually do it.
russtuff
Interesting. Thanks.
Yeah I can see what u mean now,I just thought you wanted all the clearance possible,sorry for that dumb suggestion
Nothing dumb about it :)
Hello my friend nice videos!!!, Do you hace any advice about buying cutting tools, I bought a zx45 mill to convert, and the vice you recomend, by the way my name is Juan Pablo from Argentina, thanks a lot for the videos!!
+Juan Silicia Hi Juan. Very cool about your new ZX45. That looks like a fantastic machine. If you're looking for good/cheap carbide end mills, I would consider North Bay Cutting Tools on eBay. You can find their store at: stores.ebay.com/North-Bay-Cutting-Tools?_rdc=1
For good HSS end mills (which I don't recommend for any deep pocketing) I really like these: latheinserts.com/SUPER-HSS-END-MILLS-FOR-ALUMINUM_c153.htm
Thanks my friend!!
Can you send me the link from where you bought the 1/2 inch collet for ER 20 ?
Thank You
That one is a Tormach collet.
What price for er32
Where is Brad's video?
+TheRangeControl Brad deleted all of his RUclips videos a month or two ago :(
That answers where that link went...
Or you could just put the ER 16 inside the ER 32. Boom solved.
hello there thanks for your share , tho my machine spindle adopt ER11 collet 3.175mm size. and i got other bigger shanks such as 9.5 and 12.5 dia endmill to use on my my cnc3020 i need to mill a aluminum block for making a mold for injection molding, do i need more then just a new collet ? cuz i was thinking about buying this one www.ebay.com/itm/361440029113 and i know this one has to fit in my current black ring? im not sure whats the name of that i thought the whole assembly was called collet but when i search ER11 Collet they only show me the inner piece and not the part that screws into my spindle, so why is that part called? and more importantly if i get a 9.5 collet do i need to buy another one of those rings to screw into my spindle?
+Frank Lopez Yes that collet should work fine in your ER11 collet holder/chuck. In my experience there are only three parts:
1. The collet holder/chuck is the what holds the collet
2. The collet itself
3. The collet nut (In my video the collet nuts are black) which clamps the collet into the holder
You should not need a new nut to make a new collet work in the collet holder.
+russtuff thanks , tho i got a bit that the diameter is way thicker than the er11 collet can hold "3.175mm" it's 12.5mm dia? and the er11 only take 3.175mm ? but if i remove the collet i do have a end mill that is 6.3mm dia? and that fits right in the nut so does this mean i can just get a collet that is 6.5? and use that with my nut since the er11 takes up to 7mm collet ?
+Frank Lopez If the shaft of your end mill is 6.3mm then you're really right between the range of what either a 6mm or a 7mm collet can handle so I'm not sure which one would work. You may have to buy both and see.
russtuff wel i thought that but i also thought that if i ask someone who seem to know their stuff i dont have to guess or take that gamble your asking me to take, i mean whats the whole point of the collet being springy in nature if is not to compensate? whats the point of the screw nut if is not to tie up any contacts between the in between like in my case?
+Frank Lopez You're correct, however, there are specific ranges for each collet. For instance here is a 6mm and a 7mm from Maritool who make excellent tools and a great price: www.maritool.com/Collets-ER-Collets-ER11-Collets/c21_56_60/index.html
If you click their 6mm and 7mm collets you will see these ranges:
.2162-.2362" (5.49-5.99mm)
.2556-.2756" (6.49-7.00mm)
This means neither a 6mm or 7mm collet may fit your 6.3mm tool. You may be able to use their 1/4" collet though, as it has a range of .2300-.2500" (5.84-6.35mm).
WHY NOT MACHINE THE CHUCK NUT TO A SIZE YOU CAN LIVE WITH ? DON'T BE SCARED TO MODIFY,WE DO
IT ALL THE TIME.
I don't think the diameter of that nut could be reduces all that much, but you make a good point. Thanks for your comment :)
;)
Are those the original Tormach tooling system? I'm looking for the other cheaper TTS style tool holders
Those are Tormach, but I have mostly Chinese holders now. I would check ebay, search for something like: 3/4" er20 holder
@@russtuff how do you Google them?