TESTING AN R8 TAPER ER40 COLLET CHUCK - IN THE WORKSHOP
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Testing An R8 Taper ER40 Collet Chuck - In The Workshop - I recently bought an ER40 Collet set and a couple of Collet Chucks from RDG Tools (www.rdgtools.co.uk). In this video I am testing the functionality of the R8 Taper Collet Chuck in my Milling Machine........... I would like to thank my Daughter Charlotte for making the intro and end title graphics for me. (www.visualtrailer.com) .............................
/ keithappleton
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The reason why the chuck gets tighter and tighter quickly is because the collet has a spring temper and has to compress itself down to the size of the cutter you are putting in it. They make ER collets that are on size for standard milling cutter diameters where this won't be a problem. A dead blow rubber hammer is great for doing the final tightening and loosing of an ER chuck without a spindle lock but I doubt there is enough mass in your little mill spindle and motor to get the job done. On mills without a spindle lock, I used to put the mill in low range and give the spindle a push in the opposite direction I want with the wrench and then jerk it back in the direction needed to loosen or tighten it. I stopped doing this when I found it messes up your elbow if you do it many times a day and started using a dead blow rubber mallet instead.
No matter what you do with that ER chuck, it will not be as good as using an R8 collet because of the increased absolute tool length. Absolute tool length is the distance from the spindle face (sort of) to the tip of your tool and has a significant impact on rigidity, particularly with light duty equipment. With the ER40 chuck, your cutter is now much further away from the first set of spindle bearings so it has much less support, the cutting force has more leverage to cause flex and vibration and any slop or runout is magnified. You always want to keep the quill and tool stick out as short as possible. This is true on even large beefy machines.
Hi ,I just finished repairing a tie rod end that was threaded into a hydraulic piston rod. With no way to grab the rod,I cut a hole in a soft wood block the same diameter as the rod. Then I cut the block in half ,right through the middle of the hole. Using a big “C”clap , I squeezed the two halves until the kerf closed . it held well enough to run a tap down in the rod . No scars,no mars and my old Deere is back to work.
Great video. Oldie but goodie. Currently invested in the R8 shank for my mill. Purchasing an E40 collet set and adapters that I can use on my lathe, mill or future indexing head. The goal is full CNC in the future, so I want versatility
I'm new to machining and just bought a Little Machine Shop Sieg X2D mill that has a R8 Spindle taper.. My question to anyone is can these machine's spindle be swapped out with an ER Spindle? Would an ER Spindle still require the use of a Draw Bar or is a Draw Bar only for R8 Spindles? I dont see them on machines using ER Springle/Collets.
Btw I subscribed. I was only subbing to machinist channels who can help me learn to mill but I saw you have a fascination with Steam engines and thats a really cool subject that I thought about in the past. I actually live in a city in America famous for its trains. Scranton, PA which was first famous for being one of the first cities to have electricity where we got our nickname "The Electric City" also famous for its use of many Electric Trollys back in the days. Before this though we were known as "Steamtown" for all the trains we had. We love our model trains here and have model train shows.
As a matter of fact theres a man who lives next to me who is very poor and cant even pay his taxes to keep his home.. He has a very expensive model train and wont even sell it to get money to keep his home. Thats how much people love their model trains. They'll go homeless before they part with their model trains. lol
I have a Milling Machine with a R8 Taper spindle. You do not need an "ER" Collet system. Just buy R8 Collets that fit straight into the machine. You will pf course need a Drawbar, but you should already have one of those for your other tooling. Personally I dislike the ER system and just use R8 collets - simple.
the Chuck tightens suddenly as soon as the gap between the collet nut, the collet and the collet chuck is closed. up until that point, the collet is not closed at all and will not hold an undersize shaft or is oversized itself, wich is often the case but no big problem. these big collets need a lot of force to close, much greater than your Bands can comfortably supply. ER collets have one big advantage over direct R8 taper collets and that is they remain parallel throughout all positions allowed while spanning, while direct taper collets make the chucking surfaces taper inwards, this will take away at the acuracy of chucking, will reduce tool life and worsen the surface quality. also always remember: a collet can go a little bit smaller but never ever even a little bit bigger!
i recently started my career as a machinist and watching your Videos throughout the years have given me a good understanding of the matter itself and the mechanics and physics around it, as well as teching me a lot of english. Cheers to you and your beautiful crafting
Hi
Since you have a milling machine you can mill flats on the ER 40 chuck for a wrench, then make a wrench to aid tightening.
The milling cutter can move in either direction during a cut if not tight enough.
Some milling cutters have a flat in the shank to take a set screw or grub screw to prevent movement in the chuck.
This is not meant to be troll
Thanksish but with the best intent.
I do enjoy your vids.
+1 on the suggestion. I own a cheap ER16 collet chuck, which has two flats for a spanner(i use an adjustable spanne, actually). These flats are located on the top of the body whre the tapered shank(in my case a MT2) begins. You might want to check with a file wether the chuck is hardened before taking an endmill to it, though.
your ER40 collet chuck should have flats on the side for a wrench (or channel-locks), if it were mine I'd either return it or if that's not possible I'd grind some flats. all of the collet chucks I currently have came with flats. But I don't use them much, in the end Weldon type milling chucks are the only way to go.
Use R8 collets and power drawbar - much easier than that ER junk, plus fast & easy tool changes.
That is what I use. I did not like the ER40 things at all, they weren't even accurate and generally very poor.
try a strap clamp to hold the body of the collet holder when tightening the nose with the spanner
Perhaps you could drill a hole just above the threads and fit a pin spanner that could be used to hold the spindle.
My suggestion is to use a strap wrench around the body of the collet to hold it while you tighten it.
The body of thes eChinese/Indian collet chucks is quite soft. You could drill an 8mm, 5/16" hole for a bar in them quite easily.
Try a strap wrench on its body!
The collets are supposed to click into the nuts before you put either into the chuck. Your previous video shows that you are not doing this, otherwise the collet would come out of the chuck with the nut when you remove that. It's the Eccentric Ring (ER) that holds the collet and nut together that gives the system its name.
Also mill some flats on the chuck to enable you to tighten the nut properly - though not until you've worked out how to insert the collets in the nuts or you will totally knacker the nut. Assuming you haven't already knackered it. Replacement nuts are quite cheap though.
Yes, I am aware that the collets click into place, I didn't feel that it was necessary to show every insignificant and obvious detail but it seems I should have been more careful and included every minute detail in the video owing to the volume of messages I am receiving about this from viewers - I am going for a lie down now as the voices in my head have started again . . . . . }:-)))
Having no wrench flats on the side of the ER chuck indicates a poor design, and may also have taper issue's. If the collets are standard grade, they can also be a issue.
Are you snapping the collet into the nut before inserting collet into chuck?
Yes
Keith I have a question. Is it ok to mount a milling cutter and have cutter held in by the flutes?
It's best not to really ...... but as long as the rest of the cutter's plain shank is supported I don't think it's too much of a problem.
Disappointing, how about about milling or grinding some flats on the chuck to hold another spanner?
Please watch the next video Fred.
Are you snapping the collet into the screw on cover before you screw it onto the holder?
YES of course I am, that's how they work - please read the other comments . . . . . . . .
@@keithappleton No offence intended. I certainly have seen people who should know better make that mistake.
Perhaps a rubber strap wrench would help with tightening the chuck nut?
(Edit)After watching the rest of the video I agree that your final decision is far better and will lead to less frustration
15 mins and already 103 views, congrats kind sir!!
ER collets have substantial torque requirements (ER-40 is 130 ft. Lb) having no wrench flats or holes for tommy bars sounds unworkable!
Sometimes things don't work out as planned. Basic life lesson here, if at first you don't succeed buy a better tool.
Quite disappointing. You'd think that a spanner slot is an obvious requirement in a piece of equipment like this!
on my ER32 version I milled a slot for a C spanner, no need to bother with a surface grinder.
As for ball bearing closing nuts, from what I hear don't buy cheap ones as the balls dig into the races, less than optimal methinks.