@@sparkiekosten5902 fixing up an old lathe, asked 'what for'?. Said, to make more tools for it. This seems to be the common answer, Their response, ????.. OK with that
These sets are good, but check every single collet for swalf in between all slits. Mine had small amounts in between nearly everyone of them. This will affect the accuracy on Clamping down if left inside the slits.
I am drilling a hole in the draw bar so it can handle longer stock. The hole is about 8mm or 9/32” so 1/4” rod will fit. I drill for a time till the draw bar gets warm then set it aside till later. I am in no rush.
Cheers, I was thinking the same thing too. With that said, I have seen other reviews where people have had much less luck with similar prices collet chucks. consistency of quality is something that still varies from Chinese tooling.
I didn't even know a set of collets with a chuck could be purchased so cheaply. That's a great value, even if it doesn't produce Gotteswinter or Ox Tool levels of precision.
Ironically the best one can hope for is that the collets themselves are not that accurate when you have a collet chuck with this much runout so that you can rotate the collets, find, and then mark them where the runout cancels to some degree and is the least. I'm considering a collet chuck for my mini lathe but am looking at a flange type rather then the morse taper so that I can insert longer materials into the collets as well as have a bit of a shorter stickout of the chuck. Since I'll be buying everything from scratch I'm looking at going with ER40. The flange types I've been looking at have a combination of 3 and 4 hole mounts which gives more options in a rotation to find the best location for the least amount of runout in case that's going to be helpful in cutting down runout since that would not help if the cheap collets I intend to purchase are not very precise.
@@ExtantFrodo2 One reason I could think of to go with the morse taper is if one has both a lathe and a milling machine with the morse taper and intended to use the collet holder on both machines.
A really good video, thanks a lot. Would you recommend using a collet chuck for wood? I'm not sure, if it damages wooden parts and if the nut becomes lose, while turning.
Great review! Cheap import stuff like this is always hit-or-miss, and it looks like you got a halfway decent one. I tend to think of import machining equipment as a kit... Something that works ok out of the box, but can be made better with a little work. Not sure how hard the steel of that chuck is, but you could likely machine the ER taper. Test the runout of the MT3 taper of the chuck (looked like there was enough sticking out). Do this a few times, taking the chuck out and rotating it a bit each time, to make sure the runout is the same in any position. If the MT3 taper runout is good, then you can fix the ER taper. With the collet chuck in the spindle, and your DTI on the compound, indicate the internal ER taper to get your compound aligned to the proper angle. Then, with a boring bar, take very light passes until the runout is gone. You shouldn't need to remove much material. The collet will sit a tiny bit lower in the chuck, but not enough to affect function. After that, the biggest source of runout will be the collets themselves.
Probably not the most appropriate video to mention this in (it just came to mind), but have you thought about attaching digital calipers to the lathe to give you a cheap DRO? I saw a video of this the other day and immediately ordered a couple of cheap digital calipers. It seemed to work out pretty well in that person's video. Would love to see a video of you doing that! Cheers mate!
Hi alex, the poor surface finish in the steel is mostly related to the bearings and slides wearing out. I am in the process of replacing them and the surface finish will improve. As for the auto feed. I might look into installing one, without using the leadscrew because I dont like the idea of using a leadscrew for auto feeding. Cheers
Thanks for the video. I did the same for my Bernardo Profi 400 lathe. But I used a standard 180 mm long M12 bolt from my local warehouse. I only had to make a washer for it to fit. The depth of the collet chuck is a problem for me too. It would have been nice if there were collets that fit directly in the MT3. Maybe something like a tube that goes all the way to the other side and with a nut there... Sounds a bit expensive...
I considered getting an mt3 collet chuck like this, but since I would only be able to hold stubs or cutting tools I gave it a definite pass. You can get or make an ER32 collet chuck that mounts onto your spindle such that you don't plug the bore hole.
I think ordinary metal lathe chucks are way to go 👌 anything that you modify on them you lose accuracy. I use brass shims to put between work piece and the jaws themselves, to protect it from work marks.
I guess what works best for you is always the best course of action. 90 percent of the time scroll Chuck's scroll Chuck's are best suited for my type.of work, but that other 10 percent of the time, having a collet or independent chuck on hand is invaluable. Cheers.
@@davidwillard7334 By the looks of it your a lost cause. Do not make stupid comments with capital letters unless you are trying to be idiot. Thank you and have a nice day!
People forget that you get what you pay for, and "Chinese made" isn't exempt from this generalization. In this case, it seems like an amazing value, at least for a hobbyist.
nice review , i started with the same setup then bought a faceplate collet chuck and just share the collets between the lathe and mill.I use that chuck more than the 3 jaw chuck now.Ausee machines in melbourne would have 1 too suit your machine
@@davidwillard7334 I am sure there are plenty of companies worldwide who sell face plate collet chucks, was only suggesting them as they are local and i have found them good to deal with. From all your !!!!!! ,i guess you have a different opinion.
better results if you use a old broken tap & used in a rotary. Dremel or router motor. the work well a thread mill's too. I have even set the tap in a rioter & cut a third by setting the gears to that thread & cut rely fin thread range like a thread mill , would The rang being that of thread diameters for example A 16 mil cuter can cut 5 mill 1.5 pitch Justas easily as a 16 mill thread At 1.5 pitch . whit such a tap i never trough a old broken tap away . now . check out Stephon 's channel Thread cutting on a Manual lathe. it will open your eyes , son . to a new concept to trading on small lathes . . Les England .
I bought from a local support so a link isn't hugely useful. These are very common on eBay, just search for ER 32 collet chuck. They all come from the same factory so the quality off them should be similar. Cheers
My bad. The dial is in increments of .01mm. Applying the 10 microns per .01 clearly supports you number. Unusual to talk microns for a low cost lathe however where runouts are usually greater but ok given the cost of the machine.
@@davidwillard7334 Correct but in the first instance you can see that the needle is jumping around within only 1 increment. I was puzzled by this too hence looking through the comments. Of course your comment might be suggesting exactly what Im saying too.
A little bit of patina doesn't hurt this chuck, I clean it up every few months but it quickly returns. Do as much wet sanding as I have to and patina is inevitable. Cheers.
I have no experience with any of this but watching this video was satisfying.There’s an actual art to this.
Great addition to the shop!
I think so too! Cheers
Thank you for this, as newbie, more good info welcome.
Ditto!
@@sparkiekosten5902 fixing up an old lathe, asked 'what for'?. Said, to make more tools for it. This seems to be the common answer, Their response, ????.. OK with that
These sets are good, but check every single collet for swalf in between all slits. Mine had small amounts in between nearly everyone of them. This will affect the accuracy on Clamping down if left inside the slits.
Try rotating the collet chuck in the spindle taper and measuring the run out without drawbar first.
I am drilling a hole in the draw bar so it can handle longer stock. The hole is about 8mm or 9/32” so 1/4” rod will fit. I drill for a time till the draw bar gets warm then set it aside till later. I am in no rush.
Very nice work. I have a collet set like that as well. Haven’t used it yet.
25 microns, about 1 thou is pretty damn good for an eighty dollar chuck set, way more than I would've expected
Cheers, I was thinking the same thing too. With that said, I have seen other reviews where people have had much less luck with similar prices collet chucks. consistency of quality is something that still varies from Chinese tooling.
I didn't even know a set of collets with a chuck could be purchased so cheaply. That's a great value, even if it doesn't produce Gotteswinter or Ox Tool levels of precision.
Cheers. Funnily enough there were cheaper collet chuck on ebay, selling for $15 (without collets), but even for me that sounded too good to be true.
Ironically the best one can hope for is that the collets themselves are not that accurate when you have a collet chuck with this much runout so that you can rotate the collets, find, and then mark them where the runout cancels to some degree and is the least. I'm considering a collet chuck for my mini lathe but am looking at a flange type rather then the morse taper so that I can insert longer materials into the collets as well as have a bit of a shorter stickout of the chuck. Since I'll be buying everything from scratch I'm looking at going with ER40. The flange types I've been looking at have a combination of 3 and 4 hole mounts which gives more options in a rotation to find the best location for the least amount of runout in case that's going to be helpful in cutting down runout since that would not help if the cheap collets I intend to purchase are not very precise.
*"flange type rather then the morse taper"*
YES! So many reasons to do this instead.
@@ExtantFrodo2 One reason I could think of to go with the morse taper is if one has both a lathe and a milling machine with the morse taper and intended to use the collet holder on both machines.
@@davidwillard7334 I believe you, however I think that millions of machinists might not...
A really good video, thanks a lot.
Would you recommend using a collet chuck for wood? I'm not sure, if it damages wooden parts and if the nut becomes lose, while turning.
Thank U...do U have a link fro the collet set please?
Great review! Cheap import stuff like this is always hit-or-miss, and it looks like you got a halfway decent one.
I tend to think of import machining equipment as a kit... Something that works ok out of the box, but can be made better with a little work. Not sure how hard the steel of that chuck is, but you could likely machine the ER taper. Test the runout of the MT3 taper of the chuck (looked like there was enough sticking out). Do this a few times, taking the chuck out and rotating it a bit each time, to make sure the runout is the same in any position. If the MT3 taper runout is good, then you can fix the ER taper.
With the collet chuck in the spindle, and your DTI on the compound, indicate the internal ER taper to get your compound aligned to the proper angle. Then, with a boring bar, take very light passes until the runout is gone. You shouldn't need to remove much material. The collet will sit a tiny bit lower in the chuck, but not enough to affect function.
After that, the biggest source of runout will be the collets themselves.
Could you please share the buying Link Sir?
Probably not the most appropriate video to mention this in (it just came to mind), but have you thought about attaching digital calipers to the lathe to give you a cheap DRO? I saw a video of this the other day and immediately ordered a couple of cheap digital calipers. It seemed to work out pretty well in that person's video. Would love to see a video of you doing that! Cheers mate!
When are you going to powerfeed your main lathe screw so your cuts look cleaner
Hi alex, the poor surface finish in the steel is mostly related to the bearings and slides wearing out. I am in the process of replacing them and the surface finish will improve. As for the auto feed. I might look into installing one, without using the leadscrew because I dont like the idea of using a leadscrew for auto feeding. Cheers
Thanks for the video.
I did the same for my Bernardo Profi 400 lathe. But I used a standard 180 mm long M12 bolt from my local warehouse. I only had to make a washer for it to fit.
The depth of the collet chuck is a problem for me too. It would have been nice if there were collets that fit directly in the MT3. Maybe something like a tube that goes all the way to the other side and with a nut there... Sounds a bit expensive...
Maybee I don't understand you, but there are MT3 collets, and they use a drawbar.
I considered getting an mt3 collet chuck like this, but since I would only be able to hold stubs or cutting tools I gave it a definite pass. You can get or make an ER32 collet chuck that mounts onto your spindle such that you don't plug the bore hole.
I agree with that, probably much cheaper to make it yourself too. I probably wouldn't have bought this if it wasn't for my mill needing it. Cheers
3:21 rip
a morse 3 collet set would be better for the lathe
I think ordinary metal lathe chucks are way to go 👌 anything that you modify on them you lose accuracy. I use brass shims to put between work piece and the jaws themselves, to protect it from work marks.
I guess what works best for you is always the best course of action. 90 percent of the time scroll Chuck's scroll Chuck's are best suited for my type.of work, but that other 10 percent of the time, having a collet or independent chuck on hand is invaluable. Cheers.
@@davidwillard7334 What? Lol
@@davidwillard7334 By the looks of it your a lost cause. Do not make stupid comments with capital letters unless you are trying to be idiot. Thank you and have a nice day!
Looks great, Chinese manufacturing is sometimes amazing
People forget that you get what you pay for, and "Chinese made" isn't exempt from this generalization. In this case, it seems like an amazing value, at least for a hobbyist.
nice review , i started with the same setup then bought a faceplate collet chuck and just share the collets between the lathe and mill.I use that chuck more than the 3 jaw chuck now.Ausee machines in melbourne would have 1 too suit your machine
@@davidwillard7334 I am sure there are plenty of companies worldwide who sell face plate collet chucks, was only suggesting them as they are local and i have found them good to deal with. From all your !!!!!! ,i guess you have a different opinion.
Well, it's not just me that gets sent to such a crooked ER
better results if you use a old broken tap & used in a rotary. Dremel or router motor. the work well a thread mill's too. I have even set the tap in a rioter & cut a third by setting the gears to that thread & cut rely fin thread range like a thread mill , would The rang being that of thread diameters for example A 16 mil cuter can cut 5 mill 1.5 pitch Justas easily as a 16 mill thread At 1.5 pitch . whit such a tap i never trough a old broken tap away . now . check out Stephon 's channel Thread cutting on a Manual lathe. it will open your eyes , son . to a new concept to trading on small lathes . . Les England .
All good but of no use without a link to the actual product
I bought from a local support so a link isn't hugely useful. These are very common on eBay, just search for ER 32 collet chuck. They all come from the same factory so the quality off them should be similar. Cheers
FYI not microns. A micron is one millionth of a metre. 10 microns = .01mm.
In sorry I don't quite understand. Each division on the indicator is 10 microns. The run out was 2ish divisions so a little over 20 microns. Cheers
My bad. The dial is in increments of .01mm. Applying the 10 microns per .01 clearly supports you number. Unusual to talk microns for a low cost lathe however where runouts are usually greater but ok given the cost of the machine.
@@davidwillard7334 Correct but in the first instance you can see that the needle is jumping around within only 1 increment. I was puzzled by this too hence looking through the comments. Of course your comment might be suggesting exactly what Im saying too.
omg clean that chuck a little bit.
A little bit of patina doesn't hurt this chuck, I clean it up every few months but it quickly returns. Do as much wet sanding as I have to and patina is inevitable. Cheers.