Well done, mate. I'd flatly ignore the keyboard machinists. I'm convinced most of the negative comments come from people with zero hours of hands on machining. This was a proper execution of a solid tool post.
Just tighten the gib….if need be buy a replacement gib, this is just nonsense and a waste of time. Never never wear gloves of any kind around rotating equipment. You internet morons need to quit making videos that show unsafe practices 😡
Well done! Only halfway through and already I appreciate the level of care you put into this mod. I’ve done the same thing on my 8.5 x20 lathe (had a few restarts resulting in additions to my box of shame). Nice storytelling without talking (I’m rarely of fan of all the chatter you get on so many channels). You have a new subscriber!
@@russellwall1964 Thank you so much for your support and welcome aboard! I too have a box of shame that is growing in size. It's almost embarrassing haha!
I used to demonstrate TUDA Japanese lathes in the 70's with a half inch depth of cut, but for you to get this DOC from this toy is amazing. I had one, unmodified, and it was useless for anything serious. Now I can see the differences mods can make. Nicely done dude....
A nice mod on a surprisingly good little lathe. I'd have liked to see the 0.100" doc on the outside of the bar to see what the speed/feed was like and whether it made any appreciable difference, but it was a good test.
Had to laugh when i saw your chinese caliper missing the dammed battery cover😂. I own three of them and missed all three covers. Very Nice job! Thanks You for shearing.
It's been wayy too long since I posted a video! I'm back and will post more content like this as well as new episodes of the 'Robotic Plow RC Tank Track Loader', all coming soon!
All the negative comments by people who dont use a Sieg mini lathe. Good job, it definately improves that lathe, mine cannot remove that ammount of material.
Yep, exactly! These little lathes definitely have potential if you accept their out-of-box faults and change them. On this lathe I have upgraded to Nachi tapered bearings, all steel headstock gears, and now this tool mount. Also, mounting the lathe bed to something substantial helps to increase rigidity 👍
Having a protractor that cannot feed at an angle is pointless. Switching to a tumb/toggle screw on gibs and locking when needed would be a better way. Beyond that scraping the ways true.
I was also thinking about throwing away the swivel sled from my lathe, but I wonder why you installed this angle scale if you don't have this sled, probably just for decoration?
The gib was really wonky on the top slide. It was undersized and had a bow, and would bind when moving the slide. On top of all that, You can see in the beginning video that it was missing a grub screw. It was completely stripped out. And lastly, whoever drilled the grub screw holes, drilled them too high up, causing the gib to roll down and create a lot more friction and wear. All of this created a rocky top slide with little rigidity, and lots of broken carbide tools :(
You don't need a top slide for the majority of lathe work. A top slide with a non-tapered gib (or a poorly fitted tapered gib) will never be as robust as a solid block of steel.
Nicely done, but keep you’re compound slide so you can put it back when you do actually need it, for cutting tapers or when you need more precise depth of cut. I use my compound slide a lot.
Agree with many - really good finish and function. However when you rock the maschine at 11.10 it seems as if the lathe is not properly bolted (hope I'm wrong). Also the test turning shows result of two modifications so have you tried the old toolpost? Results? On my mini I've placed two locking screws on the topslide gib side, does make a lot of difference and having the topslide at 2 degree angle it is possible to adjust depth of cut by 0,003 mm. Lock screw on cross slide makes a lot too. Lock on lead screw makes parting easy/Ingvar
The top slide should have the jib strip nipped up, but even when you do this, the rigid "lump" that you made will still be a big improvement, and useful to have; I mean lets face it, how often to you turn a taper ? - why sacrifice rigidity and slop all the time for an operation that you do once or twice a year.
It still had the gib in it, but I did loosen it to exaggerate the slop of it all 😄. I've had nothing but issues with it and it seems like a lot of other mini lathe owners have had similar issues too. On mine, one of the three gib adjustment screws was completely stripped out and the slide looked like it was slightly warped. This really exaggerated the slop it had. No matter how I adjusted the slide, it always felt either too tight or too loose.
Mini lathes are really for people who live for instance in a tower block and need a machine that's light and portable. Rather than pay a lot of money for something that will always be inadequate however many modifications you make to it, a secondhand toolroom quality lathe in reasonable condition will be better and cheaper for those who can accommodate one. For instance you can buy a Smart and Brown model M, 9" swing for about £150, infinitely more rigid and accurate than any mini lathe. Mini lathes and small Myfords are really not much better than toys.
He can still mount the top of the compound. May have to mod it a little. Most of the time you do not use the compound feature. Actually many top machinist in have a solid tool post because it offers the most rigidity and change to the compound if they need to cut a taper.
A solid tool post can give you so much more rigidity that you can use taper cutting tools to plunge cut short tapers. The compounds of small lathes are often so miniscule that you deform them with hand pressure and never get a clean taper anyway. Only a nice spiral around the part with the same pitch as the leadscrew.
I can still swap it on or off if I ever needed to cut tapers, but I rarely ever do stuff like that. I do general turning/ facing operations so for the type of work I do, this mod is perfect!
@@nbprotocol5406 solid toolpost mount is a very common mod for lathes, the compound is really only used for specific tasks, and 90% of what you do, especially on a bench lathe, can be done with a solid tool post.
Thank you for the video. I just couldn’t grasp how you adjust the angle on the slide. Do you have to remove the qctp to access the two screws holding the slide? Sorry, apprentice here.
If I loosen the qctp top screw, I can then rotate the tool post at an angle that will enable me to access those two screws. It's nice because I don't have to remove the whole tool post in order to rotate it :)
I installed it in case I needed to set a tool at a specific angle or if I needed to do something extra fancy. It also helps to ensure a dial indicator is perpendicular to the work. However, for the most part it just sits unused 😄
It looks like your chuck is not running true. Put an indicator on it and use the adjusting bolts to make it run true. Your chuck should run with less than 0.001 thousandths of run out.
This guy has more than a single philip's head screwdriver, 3 IKEA furniture Allen keys and a bent butter knife in his toolbox.....me thinks he might have some skills aswell.....
@@gianlucatomasello9492 when the video ended I was typing my comment and RUclips had advanced to another video as I sent my comment and I hadn't noticed that it did. that's how my boy.
Why is it that you people always take bigger cuts to prove that you have improved your lathe. The proof of improving your lathe is in the finish & ease of working. Deeper cuts just reduces the working life of your bearings & everything else by increasing the rate of wear. If you really want to improve your mini lathe, then you should have been adding to the number of gib screws. Adding stops to prevent the cross slide from moving whilst you are tacking an end cut & to the cross slide to prevent side movement during longer cuts.
It's to show that overall rigidity has been improved. I no longer have chatter on heavier cuts, thus saving expensive carbide that would have chipped. It also speeds up my workflow if I have to turn down a part since I can "hog" out more material in a shorter timeframe. Regarding the spindle bearing wear, it's no problem because I have upgraded the headstock with large tapered roller bearings that have a dynamic load of over 9000 lbs.
@@mcgam2000 To exaggerate the slop for viewers. Ultimately, the slide was in bad shape and the gib would bind when I tried to adjust it properly. The gib holes were drilled too high, causing the gib to roll and bind up instead of closing the gap. I could still use it, but without adjustable fine feeding of the handle. I would just set the desired cut angle, cinch down the gib screws tight and start my cut. Definitely not an efficient way of turning!
@@weseehowcommiegoogleis3770 This turd turns 6al4v titanium, w1 tool steel, stainless, and even a little hardened m2 high speed steel🤷♂️. It's accurate on turning steel to sub thou over 4" which is plenty accurate for me. It's no Colchester I get it, but the thing performs.
@@swde4793 I've tried that already. On the mini lathe, the top slide is made with pretty thin material. As a result, I cracked one of the gib holes. On top of all that, there is a significant difference in the one I have now vs before. This mod is not for everyone, but for other people who want to get the most out of their mini lathe and don't care about turning tapers, this is perfect.
@paulconrod4504. The fact that you don't know the difference between a vernier and a digital caliper suggests that your experience is mostly confined to watching videos or reading forum posts. His cheapie digital calipers (missing the battery cover) looks exactly like ones you'll find in working shops everywhere. Use the cheapies for layout and scribing lines, save your good ones for measuring. When my cheapie digital finally gives up, ill just pop into Harbor Freight and get another one. Every machinist I know has at least one cheapie digital caliper that is used for knock around work.
@@vandalsgarage Yes you are correct, I stuffed that one up. However I was horrified (and still are), I am 71 years old (never get old it sucks) and only used verniers, never this digital stuff or a machine with a DRO or ball screws. I would have used a Jenny caliper and rule to scribe the centre lines then centre punch and drill. If I needed to locate the holes to vernier (or digital) precision I would have done it with toolmakers buttons and a surface plate, but I dont have "toolmakers disease" as my old foreman would say. However apart from that everything else is great, I have just brought a QCT for my lathe and will make a block like this to replace the cross slide,,,,,ridgity is king!!!!
@@paulconrod4504 you know that they make scribing vernier & digimatic calipers that have carbide tipped jaws for doing exactly what you are saying should never be done w/ those types of calipers right? Scribing is literally in the name of said calipers...
You really are a poor man's genius. Why are you installing an angle adjustment if there is no longer a top slide? The quick-change holder covers the screw holes. You have removed the most important part and can no longer turn wedges. I have the same machine and have re-sealed all the guides, including the top slide. The spindle must have an angular contact roller bearing at the front. My EDM 300 can even remove 2-3mm in radius without vibration. Projections up to 90mm diameter are possible with a 3mm parting chisel. Motor AC 340W.
Well done, mate. I'd flatly ignore the keyboard machinists. I'm convinced most of the negative comments come from people with zero hours of hands on machining.
This was a proper execution of a solid tool post.
@@vandalsgarage Thanks! You are completely spot on! Almost sounds like a bunch of welders landed on this video 😄
not sure why all the haters flocked to your video but good mod nicely done
Haha yeah it is a little unusual, but hey I appreciate you taking the time to write something nice :)
Gloves put me off, almost as much as adjustable wrenches. Something original would help.
Who said we hate the man? It's the Garbage he's working on that's the problem.
Just tighten the gib….if need be buy a replacement gib, this is just nonsense and a waste of time.
Never never wear gloves of any kind around rotating equipment. You internet morons need to quit making videos that show unsafe practices 😡
Well done! Only halfway through and already I appreciate the level of care you put into this mod. I’ve done the same thing on my 8.5 x20 lathe (had a few restarts resulting in additions to my box of shame). Nice storytelling without talking (I’m rarely of fan of all the chatter you get on so many channels). You have a new subscriber!
@@russellwall1964 Thank you so much for your support and welcome aboard! I too have a box of shame that is growing in size. It's almost embarrassing haha!
I used to demonstrate TUDA Japanese lathes in the 70's with a half inch depth of cut, but for you to get this DOC from this toy is amazing.
I had one, unmodified, and it was useless for anything serious. Now I can see the differences mods can make. Nicely done dude....
@@logotrikes Very cool! The Japanese really do make great machines!
Turning a toy into a real tool. Well done.
New #1 to my list of upgrades to mine!
Awesome! Definitely well worth it👍
A nice mod on a surprisingly good little lathe. I'd have liked to see the 0.100" doc on the outside of the bar to see what the speed/feed was like and whether it made any appreciable difference, but it was a good test.
If you do some repair to the compound slide you can get it to work just fine , I use mine for precision depth cuts.
For sure I will swap it out if need be, but I can hog soo much more material faster without it :)
Nice. I did a similar cast iron riser for my lathe. I found the real test was the parting tool.
Had to laugh when i saw your chinese caliper missing the dammed battery cover😂.
I own three of them and missed all three covers.
Very Nice job!
Thanks You for shearing.
@@alejandroluer Haha! Yea those darn things never stay on 😄
Ive been cursing mine for years cos the battery tends to disconnect right when im doing a serious measurement. Im still too lazy to replace it.
Great job man, tighted up nicely..
Nicely done bud, if you dont use the compound, replacing it is a great way to increase machine rigidity
Yes sir it is! Thanks for watching!
Nice job! A good solution to a common problem. I think judging by your chips you can be even more aggressive in your cuts.
@@dannirr Thanks! Yeah, I think I could push it a little more for sure. I also want to try out some stainless on it to see how well it performs 👍
It's been wayy too long since I posted a video! I'm back and will post more content like this as well as new episodes of the 'Robotic Plow RC Tank Track Loader', all coming soon!
OMG!!! Is the cutting saw placed on the electrical cable? (1:26)
Just found your channel and subscribed. Very nice work.
Thank you! 😊
All the negative comments by people who dont use a Sieg mini lathe. Good job, it definately improves that lathe, mine cannot remove that ammount of material.
Yep, exactly! These little lathes definitely have potential if you accept their out-of-box faults and change them. On this lathe I have upgraded to Nachi tapered bearings, all steel headstock gears, and now this tool mount. Also, mounting the lathe bed to something substantial helps to increase rigidity 👍
Having a protractor that cannot feed at an angle is pointless. Switching to a tumb/toggle screw on gibs and locking when needed would be a better way. Beyond that scraping the ways true.
@@Eluderatnight I slapped that protractor on in case I need to mount a small part directly onto it to do some weird angle milling.
@@Brute4rce1111 but you lost your 28 degree compound feed angle needed for threading....
@@Eluderatnight I can still cut threads even though tool feed is at 90 degrees. I will just take slightly lighter cuts to prevent rip out.
I was also thinking about throwing away the swivel sled from my lathe, but I wonder why you installed this angle scale if you don't have this sled, probably just for decoration?
I installed it just in case I needed to mount a tool at a specific angle to the work.
Why didn't you just tighten the gib?
The gib was really wonky on the top slide. It was undersized and had a bow, and would bind when moving the slide. On top of all that, You can see in the beginning video that it was missing a grub screw. It was completely stripped out. And lastly, whoever drilled the grub screw holes, drilled them too high up, causing the gib to roll down and create a lot more friction and wear. All of this created a rocky top slide with little rigidity, and lots of broken carbide tools :(
adjust the gib, and still have a working compound? I guess I get it if you just want to make parts...
You don't need a top slide for the majority of lathe work. A top slide with a non-tapered gib (or a poorly fitted tapered gib) will never be as robust as a solid block of steel.
Nicely done, but keep you’re compound slide so you can put it back when you do actually need it, for cutting tapers or when you need more precise depth of cut. I use my compound slide a lot.
@@modellingmark Yup! I will still use it from time to time if needed.
Damn good Mod for this Lathe 👍👍👍 Nice work.
@@Maxiii95 Appreciate it!!
This turned out beautifully!
I think maybe it's just the camera angle, but it kind of looks like your tool is above center in the shots.
Thank you! Yea it definitely is the camera angle, it does look off center haha
Ага, если убрать малую продольную, то с ней не будет проблем! )) Замечательное решение, гениально
Ещё лучше сдать китайский токарный в металлолом 😂 И тогда вообще никаких проблем...
Great job!
Really nice job.
@@MichaelLarson-bf2bp Thank you!
No talking = Subscribed!
Agree with many - really good finish and function. However when you rock the maschine at 11.10 it seems as if the lathe is not properly bolted (hope I'm wrong).
Also the test turning shows result of two modifications so have you tried the old toolpost? Results?
On my mini I've placed two locking screws on the topslide gib side, does make a lot of difference and having the topslide at 2 degree angle it is possible to adjust
depth of cut by 0,003 mm. Lock screw on cross slide makes a lot too. Lock on lead screw makes parting easy/Ingvar
Very nice upgrade. Good work. Just found your channel. Subscribed.🎉
Glad you're here, thank you! :)
The top slide should have the jib strip nipped up, but even when you do this, the rigid "lump" that you made will still be a big improvement, and useful to have; I mean lets face it, how often to you turn a taper ? - why sacrifice rigidity and slop all the time for an operation that you do once or twice a year.
After I put a solid tool post on my Warco WM250, I can part off 25mm stainless bar 🙂
@@sjv6598 It's so satisfying when you're able to part materials like that for the first time 😁
very nice job , i subscribed .
@@wahru3357 Thank you! 🙏
With how loose that compound was initially, I think they forgot to put the gib in (or you loosened it way off for "illustration purposes" :) )
It still had the gib in it, but I did loosen it to exaggerate the slop of it all 😄. I've had nothing but issues with it and it seems like a lot of other mini lathe owners have had similar issues too. On mine, one of the three gib adjustment screws was completely stripped out and the slide looked like it was slightly warped. This really exaggerated the slop it had. No matter how I adjusted the slide, it always felt either too tight or too loose.
What is the point of installing the protractor?
Thanks. I'm going to look at my 6x26 Logan and see how I can apply this mod. Always chatters on any cut over .010. Especially when I hit hard spots.
Awesome! Yeah it's amazing how a simple block of steel can make a lathe work like a lathe again 😄
Nice vid fella I guess your machine is bolted down ??? Adding to stability but that was a big cut on a small machine
Solid mod (pun intended). Curious about the Precision Rag 2000 that covers your surface plate. Must increase accuracy 10-fold.
@@acalciu 😄 yea it's a real janky setup I have, probably a ripped up t shirt. I need to get an actual surface plate cover for it!
I enjoyed the get it done approach using what you have. Bell ticked
Good job 👍
Appreciate it, thanks!
Mini lathes are really for people who live for instance in a tower block and need a machine that's light and portable. Rather than pay a lot of money for something that will always be inadequate however many modifications you make to it, a secondhand toolroom quality lathe in reasonable condition will be better and cheaper for those who can accommodate one. For instance you can buy a Smart and Brown model M, 9" swing for about £150, infinitely more rigid and accurate than any mini lathe. Mini lathes and small Myfords are really not much better than toys.
Nice! That’s awesome. Are you losing a bit of lathe tool height adjustment with the higher block?
@@AikiFuz Thanks! I actually retain the same tool height as before since it's roughly the same thickness as the top slide 👍
Still a piece of junk but a great learning experience. I used to tinker with a Hobbymat back in the day.
Remove the entite X axis, make it from one solid block of steel. Unbelievably rigid then.
tighten up the gibs you knuckle head! Or was that for dramatic effect? All good. Love the vid.
Great mod!
@@jt9498 thanks!
Great now you don't have any top slide. Using this set up show me how you turn a taper?
He can still mount the top of the compound. May have to mod it a little. Most of the time you do not use the compound feature. Actually many top machinist in have a solid tool post because it offers the most rigidity and change to the compound if they need to cut a taper.
A solid tool post can give you so much more rigidity that you can use taper cutting tools to plunge cut short tapers. The compounds of small lathes are often so miniscule that you deform them with hand pressure and never get a clean taper anyway. Only a nice spiral around the part with the same pitch as the leadscrew.
Good work.
Thank you!
But you no longer have a compound slide.
I can still swap it on or off if I ever needed to cut tapers, but I rarely ever do stuff like that. I do general turning/ facing operations so for the type of work I do, this mod is perfect!
Yeah that takes away functiionality, you can repair those and get them to work just fine.
@@nbprotocol5406 solid toolpost mount is a very common mod for lathes, the compound is really only used for specific tasks, and 90% of what you do, especially on a bench lathe, can be done with a solid tool post.
Thank you for the video. I just couldn’t grasp how you adjust the angle on the slide. Do you have to remove the qctp to access the two screws holding the slide? Sorry, apprentice here.
If I loosen the qctp top screw, I can then rotate the tool post at an angle that will enable me to access those two screws. It's nice because I don't have to remove the whole tool post in order to rotate it :)
subbed...pretty darn cool!!!
Thank you!
Do you have a full thread on the tool post. Couldnt tell vid was too fast.
Excuse my ignorance. What is D.O.C?
@@mak6373 depth of cut
What is the point of installing the protractor?
I installed it in case I needed to set a tool at a specific angle or if I needed to do something extra fancy. It also helps to ensure a dial indicator is perpendicular to the work. However, for the most part it just sits unused 😄
what you did was great . but was pointless putting the angle scale on it as you cannot turn angles now
Thanks! I mounted the protractor on it as a way to use the lathe as a mill if needed. I could affix the part to the block and set the desired angle.
Why does the top surface have the big angle on it?
@@davidporter7710 It is there to make clearance for the tailstock chuck and it also helps to keep chips from building up in it.
It's bad practice to hold an endmill in a drill chuck.
This was cool 😎
Thanks for watching!
It looks like your chuck is not running true. Put an indicator on it and use the adjusting bolts to make it run true. Your chuck should run with less than 0.001 thousandths of run out.
Parabéns !
Rigidity!!!! Yes. Great job.
If you have no need of a compound, I suppose it may be ok. But how are you going to cut coarse threads?
Nope not for me.
Awesome stuff! What's the lathe model?!
@@Tome4kkkk Thanks! It is a 7x10 Central Machinery mini lathe but with a swapped out longer bed, so technically it's a 7x16.
@@Brute4rce1111 channel name in question added
Dykem is not available in Blue in Poland... What the hell?!
@@Tome4kkkk personally, I've never tried the red. Is it any worse?
@@Brute4rce1111 I don't know but red, is not... it's just not right! :D
This guy has more than a single philip's head screwdriver, 3 IKEA furniture Allen keys and a bent butter knife in his toolbox.....me thinks he might have some skills aswell.....
I can't believe all the rust and corrosion , I'm in Calif. and you don't see this.
A lot of the metal I have laying around is old stock and some scrap that I got from a junkyard. It also sits outside in the rain 😄
@@Brute4rce1111 sorry for the comment it was supposed to be for another channel it was a car restoration channel.
@@davidparker3346 haha no worries
@@davidparker3346lol how do you comment on the wrong video my boy
@@gianlucatomasello9492 when the video ended I was typing my comment and RUclips had advanced to another video as I sent my comment and I hadn't noticed that it did. that's how my boy.
Why is it that you people always take bigger cuts to prove that you have improved your lathe. The proof of improving your lathe is in the finish & ease of working. Deeper cuts just reduces the working life of your bearings & everything else by increasing the rate of wear. If you really want to improve your mini lathe, then you should have been adding to the number of gib screws. Adding stops to prevent the cross slide from moving whilst you are tacking an end cut & to the cross slide to prevent side movement during longer cuts.
It's to show that overall rigidity has been improved. I no longer have chatter on heavier cuts, thus saving expensive carbide that would have chipped. It also speeds up my workflow if I have to turn down a part since I can "hog" out more material in a shorter timeframe. Regarding the spindle bearing wear, it's no problem because I have upgraded the headstock with large tapered roller bearings that have a dynamic load of over 9000 lbs.
Why do you loosen the gibs and then act like it is loose!!!
@@mcgam2000 To exaggerate the slop for viewers. Ultimately, the slide was in bad shape and the gib would bind when I tried to adjust it properly. The gib holes were drilled too high, causing the gib to roll and bind up instead of closing the gap. I could still use it, but without adjustable fine feeding of the handle. I would just set the desired cut angle, cinch down the gib screws tight and start my cut. Definitely not an efficient way of turning!
ruclips.net/video/qababf7uyRE/видео.html
0.7" D.O.C. That's an awesome rigid mini lathe 🤔
@@Michel-Uphoff nice catch! One too many zeros haha!
Coooooo,l your parents must be proud!
A polished turd is still just a turd. You now have more money in a Part than the Turd costs.
@@weseehowcommiegoogleis3770 This turd turns 6al4v titanium, w1 tool steel, stainless, and even a little hardened m2 high speed steel🤷♂️. It's accurate on turning steel to sub thou over 4" which is plenty accurate for me. It's no Colchester I get it, but the thing performs.
This Solid Tool post crap needs to stop. if you want a Solid Tool post just Lock the Gibbs Down tight. That's it and Move on.
@@swde4793 I've tried that already. On the mini lathe, the top slide is made with pretty thin material. As a result, I cracked one of the gib holes. On top of all that, there is a significant difference in the one I have now vs before. This mod is not for everyone, but for other people who want to get the most out of their mini lathe and don't care about turning tapers, this is perfect.
NEVER use a vernier Caliper to scribe lines!!!!!! It is for measuring only,
counterpoint: go ahead and use it, its your tool, do whatever you want with it. Just be aware it will damage the caliper over time.
@paulconrod4504. The fact that you don't know the difference between a vernier and a digital caliper suggests that your experience is mostly confined to watching videos or reading forum posts. His cheapie digital calipers (missing the battery cover) looks exactly like ones you'll find in working shops everywhere. Use the cheapies for layout and scribing lines, save your good ones for measuring. When my cheapie digital finally gives up, ill just pop into Harbor Freight and get another one. Every machinist I know has at least one cheapie digital caliper that is used for knock around work.
@@vandalsgarage Yes you are correct, I stuffed that one up. However I was horrified (and still are), I am 71 years old (never get old it sucks) and only used verniers, never this digital stuff or a machine with a DRO or ball screws. I would have used a Jenny caliper and rule to scribe the centre lines then centre punch and drill. If I needed to locate the holes to vernier (or digital) precision I would have done it with toolmakers buttons and a surface plate, but I dont have "toolmakers disease" as my old foreman would say. However apart from that everything else is great, I have just brought a QCT for my lathe and will make a block like this to replace the cross slide,,,,,ridgity is king!!!!
@@paulconrod4504 if rigidity is still king at 71 years old... I salute you 😂
@@paulconrod4504 you know that they make scribing vernier & digimatic calipers that have carbide tipped jaws for doing exactly what you are saying should never be done w/ those types of calipers right? Scribing is literally in the name of said calipers...
0:08
oh boy someone didn't adjust the gibs. let's hope this isn't the shit show I think it is.
No need for childish negative comments
You really are a poor man's genius. Why are you installing an angle adjustment if there is no longer a top slide? The quick-change holder covers the screw holes. You have removed the most important part and can no longer turn wedges. I have the same machine and have re-sealed all the guides, including the top slide. The spindle must have an angular contact roller bearing at the front. My EDM 300 can even remove 2-3mm in radius without vibration. Projections up to 90mm diameter are possible with a 3mm parting chisel. Motor AC 340W.