Homie you are amazing! This just started happening with my 2007 Honda CRV today. As a senior citizen I always like to look up issues regarding car maintenance on RUclips first before going into a dealer or service center. It seems that whenever a senior walks into a service center they think we’re absolutely stupid and charges outrageous amounts of money for services that aren’t really required.I’m so grateful to you, keep up the good work.
Just completed this. Actually extremely straightforward and reasonably quick, just as shown. I would suggest the first task be loosening up those three screws with an impact driver (this way, if you run into trouble, you don't have the door all in pieces). Once you have those going, it should be plain sailing. Only other issue was that my new actuator didn't come with the metal rod. It's not immediately clear how to swap this over but the piece of white plastic pulls off of the metal on the actuator.
My 2011 CRV hatch is not unlocking with the fob or the button on the arm rest just the past two days. Discovered that my rear passenger door is not unlocking either (and I can't unlock it with the button on the door). From what I've read, I gather that the hatch will not unlock unless all of the doors unlock. So it looks like I'll be changing the actuator. This made it look easy enough for me to do. Thank you.
Hello, something similar happens to me but in a different way, they close all the doors except the driver's but they open all of them normally with the control and the button on the armrest and when driving The car does something similar to the video but I don't know how to open or close it, it just tries.
I literally just did this job on my car and followed this video step by step it was super helpful and detailed unfortunately the replacement part I ordered off of amazon did not come with the metal rod that hooks up to the door handle but i took it off of the old one and used it on the new one i give this video a 10 out of 10
I had to do something similar. With one or two parts. I had to modify another post on the new part also. Used a Dremel to shave it off so I could mount it properly.
Hello, something similar happens to me, the driver's door does not close with the control and the button on the armrest and when driving the car it does the same thing in the video but I don't know how to unlock or lock it, it only makes the sound, I changed the actuator the driver's door but it remains the same, what do you think it could be?
excellent video tutorial Hector, I have the problem that they constantly activate and deactivate when you are on the go, could you please tell me how to identify which of the 4 actuators I should replace? thanks brother
Best video on youtube about this problem! I just picked up a 08 with 107K miles and it has the same issue. Cant wait to get all this fixed up so I can give the car to my pops
wife's 2007 has this exact issue. watched several videos but this one was the most helpful. thank you filming this. cant remember the name but big thanks to the person who mentioned how to disable auto lock feature 👍🏿
I know I’m a couple years late to the party but thanks man. Just took me an hour to do this on the front passenger door, it’s the same as a rear door. Also to get the rod out of the blue conector I used one screw driver in the door and another one down from the top and pried one agains the other like a v to pop it out. Worked like a charm
Mil gracias, HH! My son's CRV left rear actuator was clattering and wouldn't lock, and it kept the rear hatch locked. Replacing was fine until removing the actuator - the rod was hard to release, finally got it through the little round access port. Then the actuator didn't want to get past the window track - removing that 10mm bolt to enable twisting the track was necessary.
So this used to be my problem now it's persisted so much that the driver side door now no longer functions correctly The keyhole doesn't work either so I'm going to figure it out myself this video is definitely helping me so far!
Thanks dude. Took my Honda in, have been quoted 500 for new part and 500 to install. Apparently a common problem but now worried that it might happen on other doors. Damn…
Great job. How did you determine what door was giving the problem. Like the way you show details on your video's. I have been turning wrenches 35 years I still love it but my back not so much .
He said he changed 3 of them. Wonder what the cost of this repair was. I’m in California this would be at least $200.00 in labor plus parts. Wonder how many people just don’t get this fixed.
@@michaelshanahan4965 I’ve been dealing with the same issue in my 2008 CRV EXL. Aggravating!! But only driver side back door. It will lock sometimes, but most of the time it unlocks itself immediately after locking. How can I know which door is the problem?
Thanks, Hector, for the repair videos. They have definitely helped me with fixing issues with my car. I have the same problem with my 2008 CR-V. I know exactly what they mean when talking about the locks going crazy. The locks go through the lock unlock process repetitively and create a rapid clicking sound. It happens not only when you come to a stop, but when driving over speed bumps and on lousy roads with potholes.
Saved my butt. Since changing the front passenger side (only one thus far), the key fob will not lock the doors. It will unlock them, but to lock them, I need to manually lock each or from the driver’s lock. Everything else is back to working the way it is supposed to.
Thank you very much! I have a cheap-o question. What if we just disconnect the actuator electronics (that is, pull out the wires and leave everything in place). Can we still use the car and just manually lock/unlock from inside? I don't use the back seat very often, and the driver's door works fine.
I had the same exact problem on my 2007 CRV, both rear doors went back to open position, changed actuators (30 dollars each on amazon) but the problem continues, long story short I HAD TO CHANGE the internal fuse box, also called multiplexer (located below the wheel) lucky me found an used one at a junk yard for 50, but had to reprogram it for extra 80 bucks, the guy charged me 200 dollars for his labor so i ended up paying around 400 for the whole thing to be solved.
Que Pasa Homies (y Hektor). Just got done doing LF and RR on wife's 2008 and a couple notes to help out. LF-There is a mechanical/magnetic actuator plug at the bottom of the actuator on some models. You can unhook it with two fingers by feel by pulling straight out on the "T" and there is a two stage click you will feel. It's easy but you need to get this free in order to get actuator out. To reinstall, it plugs right back in and you'll feel the two clicks. Loosening the bottom window track is required and it does swing out barely enough to get the actuator out. It feels like you might break it though it appears to be hinged to move on purpose for this. RR-The lower window track needs to be loosened and bent slightly out of the way to remove actuator. It sucks but it is possible. Getting it back in is even harder until I discovered a great trick. Leave the rod and little plastic retainer off until you get actuator in place and not bolted in yet. Then you can push actuator towards outer door skin with one hand and install the rod and plastic retainer pretty easily with the other. Then bolt /clip it all together and you are good. BOTH-After stressing on trying to pull out the door handle locking rod, a bunch of different ways, it's super simple. The rear door has a plug hole directly across from it. Slide a flat blade screwdriver in there behind the window track.... TWIST like a key and if the blade is wide enough, it will pop right out. Muchas Gracias Hektor!!!
Oh and one other thing... Don't even start before you get an impact screwdriver. It will save you grief and money. My old one walked away and I bought a new Craftsman (silver with red band #CMMT14104) and it worked amazing and all screws were in great shape and resusable!! www.amazon.com/CRAFTSMAN-Impact-Driver-8-Inch-CMMT14104/dp/B07R96M9VW/ref=asc_df_B07R96M9VW/
Thanks Hektor a great video for the do it yourselfers!!! I have the same model of CR-V, and on the passenger side, front and rear, I get this razzing noise each time the actuator kicks in to lock or unlock the door. They function as supposed to, but just the crazy razzing sound. Please advise as to what the problem is or might be.
To disable the automatic door locking functions, follow these steps: 1. Make sure the range selector lever is in the P (Park) position (for vehicles with an automatic transmission). 2. Turn the ignition key to the ON (II) position and open the driver's door. 3. Press and hold the front of the central locking switch until you hear a click (after about 5 seconds). 4. Release the switch and within 20 seconds turn the ignition key to the LOCK (0) position. To enable door locking when moving the range selector lever out of the P (Park) position, follow these steps: In this mode, all side doors and the tailgate are locked by moving the range selector lever from the P (Park) position (for vehicles with an automatic transmission). 1. Make sure the range selector lever is in the P (Park) position. 2. Turn the ignition key to the ON (II) position and close the driver's door. 3. Press and hold the front of the central locking switch on the driver's door. You will hear a click. You will not hear another click (about 5 seconds). 4. Release the switch and within 20 seconds turn the ignition key to the LOCK (0) position. To turn on the door locking mode when a certain speed is reached, do the following: In this mode, all side doors and the liftgate are locked when the vehicle reaches 15 km / h.
Thanks for a great video. I used a long skinny tapered punch to dislodge the door lock rod from the door handle connection. I accessed it through the opening just below the door glass.
2006 Honda CRV , I replaced the drivers door complete with a used door. I removed used actuator/components and replaced with actuator/components my original door components. My key fob will lock doors but will not set security system nor will it unlock doors. It appears when I lock all doors with controller on the actual door panel, it will lock all doors except the drivers door. The drivers door locks, then unlocks; therefore my drivers door is always unlocked. SUGGESTIONS? ps, there were no issues with my door locks prior to replacement
I have a 2009 Honda CR-V. My doors lock automatically every time I close them even if I am outside the vehicle. I suspected my problem was the door lock actuator but do not know how to tell which door is the problem. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thank you so much!! I can't do it but at least I can order the part and sound like I know wat I'm talking about so I don't get ripped off being a woman!! Bless you!!! ❤
Great video bro. I'm about to do this on a friend's CRV and this was really helpful. Is there also a relay in there that can go bad or just the actuator?
Someone had to have mentioned this already but there was a recall notice for this issue of locks randomly cycling while driving and not locking when idle. Unfortunately, we are long out of the recall service window.
Hector love this tutorial! I have a 2005 Mazda tribute that the dashboard shows that my doors are still opened when there all closed also my interior lights stay on unless I switch them off manually. What could be the issues and how to fix it.😊
Great video! Just a point, those lock screws are not Philips head, but JIS. Look similar but they are not. To avoid damaging the screws you need a good set of JIS (Japanese Industry Standard) screw drivers.
Thanks for this video. If it's the tailgate and the rear passenger side of door that can not be opened (tailgate can still be manually opened from inside of the car, but the rear passenger side of door can not be manually opened from inside or outside of the car), would that still be the same problem caused by door actuator?? Thanks!
How do I know which door lock is defective because all three door locks were behaving the same while driving let me know please I have the same problem but I am not willing to change all three locks due to cost
My problem started yesterday. I parked my 2012 Honda CRV, locked the door, came back out about seven hours later and the key fob didn’t work, no headlights, no horn. I went and bought a new battery for the Fob and it did nothing. The light on the key Fob lights up but nothing else. I also checked the key mechanically in the door… It turns, there is no wear & tear on the tumblers, but it does not unlock the door. What could the problem be?
My 2008 Honda CRV right back door happens today. I attached a piece of paper to stop the button moving back. I will go to Firestone to replace the part on Monday. Hopefully it will not make any loud noise at night because of the button moves
Thanks for the video! My daughter's used 2007 Honda CRV has the same issue, though only the Driver's door locks with the remote, and all three other doors (FR, RR, RL) cycle through while driving. How do I know which actuator to replace, or do I have to replace it in all three doors?
Hey man. Quick question, I replaced a door latch yesterday on a 07 crv and while making sure witch one for sure, and in that process while cycling the master switch door lock switch and after a few times the vehicle started without the key in the ignition. Have you even seen that before? If so what did you find to be the problem?
This is happening to my 2013 Hyundai Accent. I had to undo the auto lock completely because it was driving me nuts. Thanks so much for this video, gonna see if I can take your instruction and give it a go on my Accent. One question though.... does this need to be done to all the doors? They're all doing it 🙄🙄
How do you juar undo the auto lock completely? My daughter's CRV is really old and has this same problem. It's not worth spending all kinds of money on.
Old vid for you I know, but what would you do if the locks were "going crazy " but there wasn't the obvious unlocking of the doors? Is there a way to diagnose without going to Honda for a scan?
i have a 2008 honda cr-v, the back left side door is the only one not staying locked. so weird because occasionally i’ll come out to my car and that door will be locked!!!! cant get it to do that when i’m actually looking it tho lol
Homie you are amazing! This just started happening with my 2007 Honda CRV today. As a senior citizen I always like to look up issues regarding car maintenance on RUclips first before going into a dealer or service center. It seems that whenever a senior walks into a service center they think we’re absolutely stupid and charges outrageous amounts of money for services that aren’t really required.I’m so grateful to you, keep up the good work.
"This is not goint to be a step-by-step"
-Proceeds to give us a step-by-step LOL this is the only video that actully helped me out.
Thank man 👍👍
Hector this is a very instructional videos you have helped hundreds of people now! Godbless you brother!
Just completed this. Actually extremely straightforward and reasonably quick, just as shown. I would suggest the first task be loosening up those three screws with an impact driver (this way, if you run into trouble, you don't have the door all in pieces). Once you have those going, it should be plain sailing. Only other issue was that my new actuator didn't come with the metal rod. It's not immediately clear how to swap this over but the piece of white plastic pulls off of the metal on the actuator.
Timely getting a like here. I have to replace it again. Cheap knockoff, I assume.
My 2011 CRV hatch is not unlocking with the fob or the button on the arm rest just the past two days. Discovered that my rear passenger door is not unlocking either (and I can't unlock it with the button on the door). From what I've read, I gather that the hatch will not unlock unless all of the doors unlock. So it looks like I'll be changing the actuator. This made it look easy enough for me to do. Thank you.
Hello, something similar happens to me but in a different way, they close all the doors except the driver's but they open all of them normally with the control and the button on the armrest and when driving The car does something similar to the video but I don't know how to open or close it, it just tries.
the same with mine! 2013...rear I noticed first wouldn't unlock...then the passenger rear. So weird. Did you figure out how to fix this??
I literally just did this job on my car and followed this video step by step it was super helpful and detailed unfortunately the replacement part I ordered off of amazon did not come with the metal rod that hooks up to the door handle but i took it off of the old one and used it on the new one i give this video a 10 out of 10
That’s what it’s about, my job is done here.😎
I had to do something similar. With one or two parts. I had to modify another post on the new part also. Used a Dremel to shave it off so I could mount it properly.
Hello, something similar happens to me, the driver's door does not close with the control and the button on the armrest and when driving the car it does the same thing in the video but I don't know how to unlock or lock it, it only makes the sound, I changed the actuator the driver's door but it remains the same, what do you think it could be?
I deactivated the auto door lock feature (detailed in owners manual) on my 2008 Crv, so far no issues. 196,000 miles.
Sounds like a lot better fix.
Takes a lot of stress off the locking system for sure.
Similar problem on my 08 CRV. How do i disable auto lock feature? Thanks
Jassima Nasima it’s outlined in the owners manual in the lock section
Thank you! You totally saved me🙏
excellent video tutorial Hector, I have the problem that they constantly activate and deactivate when you are on the go, could you please tell me how to identify which of the 4 actuators I should replace? thanks brother
Best video on youtube about this problem! I just picked up a 08 with 107K miles and it has the same issue. Cant wait to get all this fixed up so I can give the car to my pops
wife's 2007 has this exact issue. watched several videos but this one was the most helpful. thank you filming this.
cant remember the name but big thanks to the person who mentioned how to disable auto lock feature 👍🏿
how do you disable the auto lock bro this shit is so annoying
@@brianreniero2371 iirc there is some sequence of key on/off and the trip reset button on the dash
You might try JIS screwdrivers next time. They look like philips but they're actually a different standard.
I know I’m a couple years late to the party but thanks man. Just took me an hour to do this on the front passenger door, it’s the same as a rear door. Also to get the rod out of the blue conector I used one screw driver in the door and another one down from the top and pried one agains the other like a v to pop it out. Worked like a charm
I just changed my own by using this as a guide. Much thanks mate. It saved me a lot of money.
Bro you said it oh so very simple. Please don't stop doing all this videos. God bless.
Info about needing a #3 Phillips was fantastic! I would have spent hours and stripped the screws. Thanks!!!
Mil gracias, HH! My son's CRV left rear actuator was clattering and wouldn't lock, and it kept the rear hatch locked. Replacing was fine until removing the actuator - the rod was hard to release, finally got it through the little round access port. Then the actuator didn't want to get past the window track - removing that 10mm bolt to enable twisting the track was necessary.
So this used to be my problem now it's persisted so much that the driver side door now no longer functions correctly The keyhole doesn't work either so I'm going to figure it out myself this video is definitely helping me so far!
Thanks dude. Took my Honda in, have been quoted 500 for new part and 500 to install. Apparently a common problem but now worried that it might happen on other doors. Damn…
Great video! How did you determine that it was the right rear door actuator?
I’m guessing it was the door that was tough to lock and wouldn’t stay locked
Or doors
Great job. How did you determine what door was giving the problem. Like the way you show details on your video's. I have been turning wrenches 35 years I still love it but my back not so much .
He said he changed 3 of them. Wonder what the cost of this repair was. I’m in California this would be at least $200.00 in labor plus parts. Wonder how many people just don’t get this fixed.
@@michaelshanahan4965 I’ve been dealing with the same issue in my 2008 CRV EXL. Aggravating!! But only driver side back door. It will lock sometimes, but most of the time it unlocks itself immediately after locking.
How can I know which door is the problem?
Thanks, Hector, for the repair videos. They have definitely helped me with fixing issues with my car. I have the same problem with my 2008 CR-V. I know exactly what they mean when talking about the locks going crazy. The locks go through the lock unlock process repetitively and create a rapid clicking sound. It happens not only when you come to a stop, but when driving over speed bumps and on lousy roads with potholes.
Thanks Homie!!! I have a 2012 CRV doing the same thing. Your video was very helpful. Wasn’t sure what was going on with it.
Thanks again!!!!!
Same thing on my 07 crv - thanks for great video tutorial, hiomeboy!
Thanks for your video bro. I just changed a lock actuator today following your instructions and ... Voilá, I did it.
Very good video. I know that’s what’s wrong with my wife’s car. Thanks bro.
Saved my butt.
Since changing the front passenger side (only one thus far), the key fob will not lock the doors. It will unlock them, but to lock them, I need to manually lock each or from the driver’s lock. Everything else is back to working the way it is supposed to.
Yours was by far the best video!!! THANK YOU!!! Did it myself Gretchen
Thank you, so clean, so thorough yet easy to understand!
Thank you so much!! I have two 2 questions A. How do I know which door needs to be replaced? B, In the meantime, how I disable it!?
Thank you very much! I have a cheap-o question. What if we just disconnect the actuator electronics (that is, pull out the wires and leave everything in place). Can we still use the car and just manually lock/unlock from inside? I don't use the back seat very often, and the driver's door works fine.
Sure, can that's what I did.
Thank you,I got to clip on the lock and was having a hard time,that hole on the door with a screw driver helped.
This was a Excellent step by step video.
Thank you. I appreciate your video. Cheers from 🇨🇦
I had the same exact problem on my 2007 CRV, both rear doors went back to open position, changed actuators (30 dollars each on amazon) but the problem continues, long story short I HAD TO CHANGE the internal fuse box, also called multiplexer (located below the wheel) lucky me found an used one at a junk yard for 50, but had to reprogram it for extra 80 bucks, the guy charged me 200 dollars for his labor so i ended up paying around 400 for the whole thing to be solved.
Nice diagnosis & repair Hector!
Grwe at video!My wife's crv is having the exact opposite problem where the lock won't stay open. I'm hoping this is the same solution
Great job my man! My 2008 crv rear lock is going crazy. Thanks for the post.
Thanks, you saved me a bundle but I used an impact driver on those three really tight screws and it worked great.
Ken Hope That’s awesome 👏🏼
My left rear door has to be manually unlocked by reaching behind the driver seat and the back hatch won't open until you unlock that door first.
Awesome video.. quick question. I have the same car and my back trunk stopped working. I changed the actuator and it still won't work.. any advice
Hi ; How I know which actuator is bad , thanks for the video help me a lot figure out what was it .
How did you figure out which one of them was bad? Please help!!!
You are a genius bro ! Big respect for the knowledge you have man!
Perfect video. Just used it to fix a rear door actuator problem. Thank you!
Helpful to show me I should NOT do this on my own. 🤦♀️ Wish you were here. Will have to hire a pro. Thanks
for the door screws just an impact DRIVER and it will come out no issues
Que Pasa Homies (y Hektor).
Just got done doing LF and RR on wife's 2008 and a couple notes to help out.
LF-There is a mechanical/magnetic actuator plug at the bottom of the actuator on some models. You can unhook it with two fingers by feel by pulling straight out on the "T" and there is a two stage click you will feel. It's easy but you need to get this free in order to get actuator out. To reinstall, it plugs right back in and you'll feel the two clicks.
Loosening the bottom window track is required and it does swing out barely enough to get the actuator out. It feels like you might break it though it appears to be hinged to move on purpose for this.
RR-The lower window track needs to be loosened and bent slightly out of the way to remove actuator. It sucks but it is possible. Getting it back in is even harder until I discovered a great trick. Leave the rod and little plastic retainer off until you get actuator in place and not bolted in yet. Then you can push actuator towards outer door skin with one hand and install the rod and plastic retainer pretty easily with the other. Then bolt /clip it all together and you are good.
BOTH-After stressing on trying to pull out the door handle locking rod, a bunch of different ways, it's super simple. The rear door has a plug hole directly across from it. Slide a flat blade screwdriver in there behind the window track.... TWIST like a key and if the blade is wide enough, it will pop right out.
Muchas Gracias Hektor!!!
Oh and one other thing... Don't even start before you get an impact screwdriver. It will save you grief and money. My old one walked away and I bought a new Craftsman (silver with red band #CMMT14104) and it worked amazing and all screws were in great shape and resusable!!
www.amazon.com/CRAFTSMAN-Impact-Driver-8-Inch-CMMT14104/dp/B07R96M9VW/ref=asc_df_B07R96M9VW/
I have the same problem right now. Great upload thanks buddy
Thanks for the video. My CR-V does the opposite. When trying to unlock the passenger side door the lock opens half way then closes by itself.
Same for my case. Did you fix it? Thanks for response.
@@senliangpan338 Yes. Replaced the actuator assembly with one from Amazon that had good reviews. No issue so far.
Thanks Hektor a great video for the do it yourselfers!!! I have the same model of CR-V, and on the passenger side, front and rear, I get this razzing noise each time the actuator kicks in to lock or unlock the door. They function as supposed to, but just the crazy razzing sound. Please advise as to what the problem is or might be.
Thank you so much for the vid. I was able to anticipate problems and that really helped.
To disable the automatic door locking functions, follow these steps:
1. Make sure the range selector lever is in the P (Park) position (for vehicles with an automatic transmission).
2. Turn the ignition key to the ON (II) position and open the driver's door.
3. Press and hold the front of the central locking switch until you hear a click (after about 5 seconds).
4. Release the switch and within 20 seconds turn the ignition key to the LOCK (0) position.
To enable door locking when moving the range selector lever out of the P (Park) position, follow these steps:
In this mode, all side doors and the tailgate are locked by moving the range selector lever from the P (Park) position (for vehicles with an automatic transmission).
1. Make sure the range selector lever is in the P (Park) position.
2. Turn the ignition key to the ON (II) position and close the driver's door.
3. Press and hold the front of the central locking switch on the driver's door. You will hear a click.
You will not hear another click (about 5 seconds).
4. Release the switch and within 20 seconds turn the ignition key to the LOCK (0) position.
To turn on the door locking mode when a certain speed is reached, do the following:
In this mode, all side doors and the liftgate are locked when the vehicle reaches 15 km / h.
My exact problem. A tip of the hat to you on an excellent video.
Another good video, im never disappointed and always waiting for you to drop the next video.
Notification Gang!!!
The MechanicLA Heck Yeah, ring that F’n Bell 🔔
excellent job on explaining and repairing!
Thanks for a great video. I used a long skinny tapered punch to dislodge the door lock rod from the door handle connection. I accessed it through the opening just below the door glass.
2006 Honda CRV , I replaced the drivers door complete with a used door. I removed used actuator/components and replaced with actuator/components my original door components. My key fob will lock doors but will not set security system nor will it unlock doors. It appears when I lock all doors with controller on the actual door panel, it will lock all doors except the drivers door. The drivers door locks, then unlocks; therefore my drivers door is always unlocked. SUGGESTIONS? ps, there were no issues with my door locks prior to replacement
Hi Trinity Faith! Did you get this issue resolved? I am having the same issue with my 2006 CRV. My back door does not lock either. Thanks!
What an awesome video. Many thanks Hector. You certainly know you stuff.
Thank you Papi this was exactly what I needed
I am having that exact problem right now with my 2007 CRV
Well dang if that’s not the exact thing happening to my 2010. Thanks homie!
Excellent video very detailed
And I can hold with masking tape to hold the door handle from inside to prevent banding next to the blue plastic thing?
Felicidades Hector muy bien explicado el video, los actuadores los compraste por Amazon o son de agencia?
I have a 2009 Honda CR-V. My doors lock automatically every time I close them even if I am outside the vehicle. I suspected my problem was the door lock actuator but do not know how to tell which door is the problem. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
On my CR-V the only door lock that can cause all the doors to lock is the driver's door.
Thank you so much!! I can't do it but at least I can order the part and sound like I know wat I'm talking about so I don't get ripped off being a woman!! Bless you!!! ❤
Great video bro. I'm about to do this on a friend's CRV and this was really helpful. Is there also a relay in there that can go bad or just the actuator?
Awesome video, helped me save $$$$$. Everything went just like you said.
Someone had to have mentioned this already but there was a recall notice for this issue of locks randomly cycling while driving and not locking when idle. Unfortunately, we are long out of the recall service window.
Thanks so much for the video Hektor, It really help me a lot! I do appreciate you!
Hector love this tutorial!
I have a 2005 Mazda tribute that the dashboard shows that my doors are still opened when there all closed also my interior lights stay on unless I switch them off manually. What could be the issues and how to fix it.😊
Depends on what’s involved in the circuit, but it sounds like a bad BCM(BodyControlModule)
Great video! Just a point, those lock screws are not Philips head, but JIS. Look similar but they are not. To avoid damaging the screws you need a good set of JIS (Japanese Industry Standard) screw drivers.
Thanks! Exactly what I'm dealing with, great video!
One of my locks sounds like a machine gun
Both of my rear doors do too...
Mine too
Hey Hector , got a 2007 Honda Crv - got a exact problem on my front right hand side lock door - how much do you charge for that? Thanks!
Great work hektor i love you videos man. Keep em coming
Thanks for this video. If it's the tailgate and the rear passenger side of door that can not be opened (tailgate can still be manually opened from inside of the car, but the rear passenger side of door can not be manually opened from inside or outside of the car), would that still be the same problem caused by door actuator?? Thanks!
Nice breakdown on the issue. Customer education is important in some cases.
You need to change all the door attenuators or only the passenger rear door?
Hi. Will follow the video but how did u figure out which one of the 4 locks needed switch Ins out?
Lot feels different than the other ones, it has more resistance when trying to lock it.
Awesome video, thank you! my CRV was doing the same thing
Alex L Now you know what to do to fix it 👍🏼
How do I know which door lock is defective because all three door locks were behaving the same while driving let me know please I have the same problem but I am not willing to change all three locks due to cost
West Coast get inside the car and lock all the doors and see which ones don’t unlock or vise-versa...
You have to replace all that are not staying locked. $25 each or so on ebay.
@@PaulSmithDYL so ,how long before you have to do it again?
All three. Sorry. It goes pretty smooth after the first one but you may have to drill out some of the screws and get new ones from Honda.
My guy, get some JIS screwdrivers or bits. You'll be glad you did.😊
Great video, thanks for posting this diagnosis and fix!
Your a great teacher
Thanks, appreciate the compliment 👍🏼
Great Video Thank you. Your the best bro. God bless you with your hard work
My problem started yesterday. I parked my 2012 Honda CRV, locked the door, came back out about seven hours later and the key fob didn’t work, no headlights, no horn. I went and bought a new battery for the Fob and it did nothing. The light on the key Fob lights up but nothing else. I also checked the key mechanically in the door… It turns, there is no wear & tear on the tumblers, but it does not unlock the door. What could the problem be?
Same exact issue here. Did you ever find a solution 🤔?
My 2008 Honda CRV right back door happens today. I attached a piece of paper to stop the button moving back. I will go to Firestone to replace the part on Monday. Hopefully it will not make any loud noise at night because of the button moves
That happened in my mom’s Honda on the passenger side but it works just finicky only then she got in a side impact crash with me in it
You are excellent! Thank you so much.
Great video, any idea how much would this job cost at a dealer? I have the same problem on two doors.
Great instructional video. Thanks!
Mine is a 2008 and doing the opposite. It re locks it self. So is it still the actuator
Thanks for the video! My daughter's used 2007 Honda CRV has the same issue, though only the Driver's door locks with the remote, and all three other doors (FR, RR, RL) cycle through while driving. How do I know which actuator to replace, or do I have to replace it in all three doors?
I'm having the same issue as your daughter's car. What did you find out.
@@ammogiant824 same issue did you figure it out
@@eyemah4440 no I didn't unfortunately. The only one that works correctly is the driver side. I have disconnected all other ones in the meantime.
@@ammogiant824 question have you replaced your starter recently this happened to me right after I replaced my starter?
@@eyemah4440 no still on the original starter but on my second alternator.
Good Job Man. Very good details. Thanks a lot!
Hey man. Quick question, I replaced a door latch yesterday on a 07 crv and while making sure witch one for sure, and in that process while cycling the master switch door lock switch and after a few times the vehicle started without the key in the ignition. Have you even seen that before? If so what did you find to be the problem?
How did you figure out which actuator was giving you problems
I have the same problem for my civic. I switched the actuator and still does the same thing.
This is happening to my 2013 Hyundai Accent. I had to undo the auto lock completely because it was driving me nuts. Thanks so much for this video, gonna see if I can take your instruction and give it a go on my Accent. One question though.... does this need to be done to all the doors? They're all doing it 🙄🙄
How do you juar undo the auto lock completely? My daughter's CRV is really old and has this same problem. It's not worth spending all kinds of money on.
Old vid for you I know, but what would you do if the locks were "going crazy " but there wasn't the obvious unlocking of the doors? Is there a way to diagnose without going to Honda for a scan?
i have a 2008 honda cr-v, the back left side door is the only one not staying locked. so weird because occasionally i’ll come out to my car and that door will be locked!!!! cant get it to do that when i’m actually looking it tho lol
Very well done. Great info!
Hektor, how did you know which door had a faulty actuator?
if it doesnt stay locked it is faulty.
@@PaulSmithDYL in the video they all did not stay locked.