There are some tiny difference between the Episode 4 and Episode 5 lightsaber. I used the original plans, but made mine reflect the Empire Strikes Back version.
This is constructive critique because you asked us to respond. If you really want this to be screen accurate, There should be a second red button on the front instead of the glass eye There should be a single strip of mylar tape to cover the word "graflex" on the clamp The screws should be black, or you should be using silver rivets The bottom is missing the Graflex 3 cell production info stamp and the Grips should be flush with the end of the 3 cell bottom I hope that helps. This was an amazing video, I am SO looking forward to you finishing your Karmann Ghia!
I love that something clearly made on a budget from random parts that the lighting/prop crew had lying around in the mid 70s is now being replicated as faithfully as possible.
So true like those prop makers back then just used whatever they could find laying on the shelf, little did they know they would turn random objects into sought after super valuable collectables lol
@@Scrapla1 yup, tho subsequently it ended up biting vintage camera collectors in the ass because they can never find the cameras with flashes cos Star Wars collectors are always buying them xD
honestly, the only non accurate piece (so far, im not too far into the video) is the pcb part that goes in the clamp section. The actual part is gold though, and is probably stupid expensive. And copper looks cool too.
Fun Fact: You didn't need to deal with all that hassle for the grips.. the originals were made from plastic display case t-track. The propmakers at ILM literally used junk from bins they had around, to make the lightsabers in the original trilogy. The activation plate is made from the display of an old calculator....it was replaced with a piece of circuit board for ESB.
The grips were british military wiper blades. Not t-track The activation strip was from a Texas Instruments LED scientific calculator (the old kind with red numbers, I don'trecall the model number anymore).
I think photography buffs reluctantly resigned themselves to the fact geeks were going to "destroy" all the Graflex flashes a few decades back. Though the photography buff who sold me two of them back in 2001 thought it was cool what I planned to do with them, so there is that
@@UnrealizedReality yeah most camera buffs hate us lightsaber guys. Although most of us have found a happy middle ground where we use replica lowers on vintage tops since the only thing that needs permanent modification is the bottom.
I'm a photography buff and I bought the 3 Cell Graflex back in 1996 to turn into Luke's lightsaber. I never did make it into that. I did find the calculator plastic clear bubbles for the originsl buttons
That’s awesome!! As for the ferric chloride, as a bladesmith who uses Ferric a good deal, be careful if you intend on using it for steel at some point. When you mix copper in with the acid it will turn your steel pink; a general rule of thumb is to have a separate tank of ferric for copper projects and then a separate for steel. Just a random bit of info! I was nerding out so hard because I love the graflex saber. Such an amazing build! God bless - Ian Z😀
That would explain a palpatine saber replica I saw at a convention where the gold portion had somehow turned pink! They were still selling the saber for a profit, but it was pretty cool anyhow
I know this has been pointed out before, but the Empire Strikes Back lightsaber has a second red button instead of the glass eye. What you’ve made is a very good replica of the version seen in The Force Awakens and The Last Jedi
I'm just now coming back to this channel because I thought about it randomly in my explanation of why I decided I wanted to be an engineer, I remember watching Bob make stuff in like 4th or 5th grade and thinking it was so cool and here I am 6 or 7 years later with a mechanical design certificate and thinking about where it began, thank you Bob for giving me a dream to act on, I hope some day I come back as a colonel in the air force with my dream job as an engineer and seeing Bob still make stuff. Thanks again, Bob, for giving me a goal to work to
This was an awesome video and I enjoyed watching you make a replica of the Ep.5 lightsaber, but when serious collectors refer to the "screen accurate" version they're talking about going through the process of finding all those old parts and assembling it. I don't do it myself but I have looked into it a bit: Firstly you'll need a graflex 3 cell flash tube, as you observed. Depending on whether you're looking to recreate the Ep. 4 or 5 version you'll either need to scavenge calculator buttons or a SNES game cartridge for the activator switch and the grips are windshield wipers though you might have to do some serious looking to find the right ones. Most of these recreated versions are passion projects that take years to gather parts for and can be fun just to know you built a lightsaber the same way as the prop guys on set.
I was fairly certain that it was not windshield wipers but cabinet T track that was used. The grips were never flexible rubber on the surviving original props...as they would be if they were wiper blades.
Printed circuit board needs to either be coated to keep it from corroding, or you need to go find pretty any old ISA card from the computer recyclers, and then cut the edge connector off it. Will give you the right contacts and also a gold plate on them as well so they stay shiny.
FYI for future casting projects. If you sprue up you parts in a straight line you can then construct a mold box around them that will allow you to cut the mold for easier demolding. Plus since the mold is basically in a rectangle you can clamp the mold shut with a few rubber bands and a couple of pieces of plexiglass when you cast. It will make casting a gang mold much easier.
Was that Destin that I heard laughing in the bloopers? If so, its cool to see some of my favorite YT creators hanging out and being friends to share ideas. Awesome build, this is on my bucket list to do one of these days. Just finished watching Adam Savage build his own custom saber.
This is by far the most I have enjoyed one of your videos. There was so much that I didn't know that I didn't know... ...I enjoy them all but this is on another level. Thanks Bob!
The extending Disney Saber is Retro Reflective Tape on an extending tape measure with stage lighting hitting it. If you want to build one like that, I suggest a telescoping car antenna covered in retro reflective material, with a base LED light to illuminate it.
This project was such a wonderful showcase of the enormous variety of skills that you've developed, refined, started learning, etc. A single-skill expert couldn't have done this on their own, but a generalist jack-of-many-trades made it look fun an approachable. This may have just surpassed Soundwave as my favorite build.
At 7:58 - I believe that what they used was the so called PCB "edge connector" - a very common on many circuit boards that connects together. Back in the day it was most likely some cartridge or industrial PCB that they sawed the end off. But these days you can find these on any desktop computer expansion card. You can get a dead network adapter or GPU for literally a pennies in the nearby PC service/store, or even buy a brand new network adapter for like 5$ to cut off the edge of the connector.
I know you were going for an authentic look, but I think it would be awesome to have the circuit board have your ILTMS circuitry on it. Awesome project!
*"IMPRESSIVE...MOST IMPRESSIVE!"* That's so cool. I loved watching this come together. And I little nervous when you did the slots on the freshly machined cylinder LOL
Not bad, I’d say as it is you’re about 70% there. The biggest one (as others have pointed out) is that the Empire prop had 2 red buttons instead of a glass eye on the front. As it stands right now you have a Force Awakens replica. Then there’s the thin Mylar strip covering the “graflex” stamping around the clamp, black Phillips head screws in the grips, and the grip ends should be flush with the bottom of the hilt. The “beer tab” and small pin on the underside of the back red button should also be removed. If you want to get really nitpicky, then the bottom half should also be nickel-plated brass instead of aluminum. And the tiniest detail would be the shape of the 4 small brass pins in the 2 black circles by the emitter. Hope that was helpful! Definitely a fun build to see you put together, and would be neat to see small updates made here and there over time should you decide to go that route
This is so cool. I'm jealous that you can just machine the parts you need, but jealous I'm the best way. It's awesome to see you growing in your skills, and using them for the force!
A graphlex 3 cell would be amazing. I remember looking at plans back in the early days of the internet and even then they were so expensive to track down
Really cool build. The only comment I would have to improve it would be to not 3D print the grip detail. The black grip pieces were originally windscreen wiper blades and it would have been great to see you use those. I also thought they were attached with pop rivets so would be good to see that detail too.
Enjoyed watching this , I used to go to Hollywood frequently for my work in the late Seventies and early 80’s to pick up technical supplies for the Live Theater I worked at . I saw an original screen used light saber for sale in a Hollywood shop for only $20 and kept procrastinating. It eventually sold and I have regrets . It looked pretty close to yours .
Awesome work! Next step should be adding a sound board and neopixel blade! I haven’t done hilt electronics in like 20 years, so a refresher/update to current tech would be awesome!
I’m happy to see you making some fun projects with your mill! I noticed that your spindle speeds were pretty slow for Aluminum. (Yes I realize some of the video was slowed down haha) You may have better luck shifting the mill to high gear, especially for the smaller drills and endmills that you were using. Can’t wait to hear about your experience using the machine shop for this project on Making IT!
Excited to see the video! Heard about the journey of this on the podcast and while I'm probably biased cause I heard you talk about it, I think the format of this video works, so keep it up! Or don't! But this is good 👍
A couple tiny details, for ESB they put an aluminium or metal tape around the clamp to hide the ‘Graflex’ word around it, it’s definitely part of the look. Another detail, and this, I understand some people don’t want it, but it is actually visible in Empire Strikes Back, you can actually see the Graflex patent with New York etc written on the pommel during the ice cave scene on Hoth. Great work though!
Great fabrication job on all of it. Screen representative, yes. But accurate - not so much. Not to take away from the effort though, it looks great! I went through a similar process a few years back. The circuit card you etched looks great. The original did use a real circuit card, from the edge of a board used in elevators. On the underside, the Empire version replaced the glass eye with another red button that matches the top. Of course, there are also different versions of the red button that were manufactured, something to note. Keen that you made your own bottom half too. I did similar - just used an aluminum tube and capped the end (also cut my own slots with a Dremel). One thing to note is that the screen used version had the GRAFLEX stamping on the bottom, that does show on screen - it's similar to the stamping on the bottom of your two-cell lower half. And again, there's different versions. I think one is Rochester, one says Folder... I forget which is on what hilt anymore though. I built a few as gifts over the years, and each time I learn something new about them! Great job on yours, better than first attempt was for sure! Enjoyed the video too 👍
I actually bought a sterling l2a3 "kit" (real one cut up with a torch where it was no longer functional). I welded it back together, got a real counter, real capacitors and assembled it. I had a few "star wars experts" tell me it wasn't accurate. I told them it was more accurate than anything they had because this is what Lucas used for the e11 storm trooper blaster.
Pretty cool vid man! The only thing that I would probably say that might help out a little bit, let's check out Roman's Props. He has both parts for complete kits that you build I complete saber from, to conversion kits where you can take parts and pieces to the things that you already have to make saber from that. That would make your job 10x easier I think. He has a BEAUTIFUL Obi wan kit, & I believe parts to make a ROTJ Vader. Which is just a remodeled ESB graflex. So that's the only thing I would say because that might be handy for somebody else who's looking for nuts and bolts, and makes the project a little easier on you if you want to have one in your collection. These sounds could also be converted to neopixel if you want to make it electronic too. So I'm just throwing out there to help you or anybody else! Hope that helps!
Nice video. Just a couple of comments. The rubber "grips" were actually windshield wiper blades, (from some British military vehicle if I remember correctly), and the circuit board was green on the first one that had it, but seems like I recall the "original" Verdon had a strip from an old Texas Instruments calculator, it was the magnifier strip that went over the LED numbers, and it looked like a row of clear glass bubbles. I believe I have the same Disney lightsabre but I bought it send hand. And it no longer works. 😢 but it still looks good.
Amazing scratch build. Also, you have the Force Awakens version, just need to throw the glass eye in a lathe and remove the knurling, should be smooth brass.
It’s almost perfect. The only thing wrong, that I can see, is that the end of the grips don’t go to the very bottom edge of the hilt. But that’s such a minor critique. It looks great man!
For the slots, I originally was like "How's he going to turn that and cut the slots" and then I figured if I had to do it, the wall of the material is thin enough you could probably just cut the whole slot with the bit perpendicular to the surface at the straight part (the axial portion of the slot), then just a couple back and forths of the X and Y to make the axial slot wider than the radial slot, and then just run the X axis of the mill over to cut the radial slot. The only difference you'd have vs. cutting it in the dividing head would be that your end surface of the radial slot wouldn't be normal to the surface of the cylinder, but A: that face is really tiny and you probably couldn't tell it wasn't normal to the surface and B: that face gets hidden when you install it.
Long time viewer, love your videos. I appreciate the different types of projects without going too far outside of your topics/depth. Great job on use your lathe (sp?) to make the handle click-in part after your buddy. Question: when did you get a new chop saw?
Kodak was not engraved on the bottom. It said GRAFLEX, with some other information about the company. Kodak did make flash handles, but not ones used for Skywalkers sabers.
There are some tiny difference between the Episode 4 and Episode 5 lightsaber. I used the original plans, but made mine reflect the Empire Strikes Back version.
What can’t WD40 do! I just love that stuff. And the fact that it’s original purpose was for corrosion prevention of US ICBMs in the late 40s and 50s
This is constructive critique because you asked us to respond. If you really want this to be screen accurate,
There should be a second red button on the front instead of the glass eye
There should be a single strip of mylar tape to cover the word "graflex" on the clamp
The screws should be black, or you should be using silver rivets
The bottom is missing the Graflex 3 cell production info stamp
and the Grips should be flush with the end of the 3 cell bottom
I hope that helps. This was an amazing video, I am SO looking forward to you finishing your Karmann Ghia!
You need a second red button in place of the glass eye... and you need to remove the beertab off of the original red button...
@@DoaTheJackalope There were silver screws in some scenes
@@DoaTheJackalope I'm not sure I'd consider the 3 cell info stamp necessary
I love that something clearly made on a budget from random parts that the lighting/prop crew had lying around in the mid 70s is now being replicated as faithfully as possible.
So true like those prop makers back then just used whatever they could find laying on the shelf, little did they know they would turn random objects into sought after super valuable collectables lol
Yeah! And for a fukuvalot more money!
A budget?
@@Scrapla1 yup, tho subsequently it ended up biting vintage camera collectors in the ass because they can never find the cameras with flashes cos Star Wars collectors are always buying them xD
honestly, the only non accurate piece (so far, im not too far into the video) is the pcb part that goes in the clamp section. The actual part is gold though, and is probably stupid expensive. And copper looks cool too.
Fun Fact: You didn't need to deal with all that hassle for the grips.. the originals were made from plastic display case t-track. The propmakers at ILM literally used junk from bins they had around, to make the lightsabers in the original trilogy. The activation plate is made from the display of an old calculator....it was replaced with a piece of circuit board for ESB.
True - but I wanted to make them.
@@Iliketomakestuff Fair enough
I heard they were wiper blades
The grips were british military wiper blades. Not t-track
The activation strip was from a Texas Instruments LED scientific calculator (the old kind with red numbers, I don'trecall the model number anymore).
@@Kommander_Rahnn Common mistake.... thought they were wiper blades too, for the longest time.
A million photography buffs just screamed out in pain and were silenced forever.
I think photography buffs reluctantly resigned themselves to the fact geeks were going to "destroy" all the Graflex flashes a few decades back. Though the photography buff who sold me two of them back in 2001 thought it was cool what I planned to do with them, so there is that
@@UnrealizedReality yeah most camera buffs hate us lightsaber guys. Although most of us have found a happy middle ground where we use replica lowers on vintage tops since the only thing that needs permanent modification is the bottom.
🤣
I'm a photography buff and I bought the 3 Cell Graflex back in 1996 to turn into Luke's lightsaber. I never did make it into that. I did find the calculator plastic clear bubbles for the originsl buttons
I’m a SW fan and bought a graflex 3 cell. Ended up leaving it alone because I couldn’t bring myself to do it.
That’s awesome!! As for the ferric chloride, as a bladesmith who uses Ferric a good deal, be careful if you intend on using it for steel at some point. When you mix copper in with the acid it will turn your steel pink; a general rule of thumb is to have a separate tank of ferric for copper projects and then a separate for steel. Just a random bit of info! I was nerding out so hard because I love the graflex saber. Such an amazing build! God bless - Ian Z😀
Thanks for the tip!
That would explain a palpatine saber replica I saw at a convention where the gold portion had somehow turned pink! They were still selling the saber for a profit, but it was pretty cool anyhow
Bob wrenching to the beat at 4:08 is epic. Great sound design as always by the editors!
Thanks for that! I have the best team.
@@Iliketomakestuff Who's doing the editing? Is that part of Anthony's job?
@@SanderMakes I'm pretty sure its still Forbe (I only hear his name, I've never seen it spelled. Sorry Forbe!)
I know this has been pointed out before, but the Empire Strikes Back lightsaber has a second red button instead of the glass eye. What you’ve made is a very good replica of the version seen in The Force Awakens and The Last Jedi
I'm just now coming back to this channel because I thought about it randomly in my explanation of why I decided I wanted to be an engineer, I remember watching Bob make stuff in like 4th or 5th grade and thinking it was so cool and here I am 6 or 7 years later with a mechanical design certificate and thinking about where it began, thank you Bob for giving me a dream to act on, I hope some day I come back as a colonel in the air force with my dream job as an engineer and seeing Bob still make stuff. Thanks again, Bob, for giving me a goal to work to
The absolute excitement I felt seeing frank. He is a master of his craft!
Love seeing Frank Ippolito featured. Loved him when he was working with Tested years back.
This was an awesome video and I enjoyed watching you make a replica of the Ep.5 lightsaber, but when serious collectors refer to the "screen accurate" version they're talking about going through the process of finding all those old parts and assembling it. I don't do it myself but I have looked into it a bit: Firstly you'll need a graflex 3 cell flash tube, as you observed. Depending on whether you're looking to recreate the Ep. 4 or 5 version you'll either need to scavenge calculator buttons or a SNES game cartridge for the activator switch and the grips are windshield wipers though you might have to do some serious looking to find the right ones.
Most of these recreated versions are passion projects that take years to gather parts for and can be fun just to know you built a lightsaber the same way as the prop guys on set.
I was fairly certain that it was not windshield wipers but cabinet T track that was used.
The grips were never flexible rubber on the surviving original props...as they would be if they were wiper blades.
Printed circuit board needs to either be coated to keep it from corroding, or you need to go find pretty any old ISA card from the computer recyclers, and then cut the edge connector off it. Will give you the right contacts and also a gold plate on them as well so they stay shiny.
Would the connector on an NES cartridge work?
@@mrsir92i want know that
I needed this video today. Thanks Bob! So freak'n cool!
Glad you liked it!
I don’t even have the vocabulary to express how cool I think this is. All of your Star Wars builds have been so spot on. Bravo. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
FYI for future casting projects. If you sprue up you parts in a straight line you can then construct a mold box around them that will allow you to cut the mold for easier demolding. Plus since the mold is basically in a rectangle you can clamp the mold shut with a few rubber bands and a couple of pieces of plexiglass when you cast. It will make casting a gang mold much easier.
Really makes you appreciate these guys back in the day making all these props.
Prop makers still use the same methods with the foraging for parts, adapting one item into another, It's still such an interesting occupation.
So cool. Love it.
Amazing! A genuine graflex saber is such a dream of a lot of lightsaber lovers, myself included, so it's super awesome to see this one come together.
GREAT JOB SIR !!! THE FORCE WAS DEFINITELY WITH YOU !
Was that Destin that I heard laughing in the bloopers? If so, its cool to see some of my favorite YT creators hanging out and being friends to share ideas. Awesome build, this is on my bucket list to do one of these days. Just finished watching Adam Savage build his own custom saber.
Not this time. Thanks for watching though!
This is by far the most I have enjoyed one of your videos. There was so much that I didn't know that I didn't know...
...I enjoy them all but this is on another level. Thanks Bob!
The extending Disney Saber is Retro Reflective Tape on an extending tape measure with stage lighting hitting it. If you want to build one like that, I suggest a telescoping car antenna covered in retro reflective material, with a base LED light to illuminate it.
This project was such a wonderful showcase of the enormous variety of skills that you've developed, refined, started learning, etc. A single-skill expert couldn't have done this on their own, but a generalist jack-of-many-trades made it look fun an approachable. This may have just surpassed Soundwave as my favorite build.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Awesome stuff Bob! Congrats on having a sweet saber. Loved all the techniques and methods you used for this project.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Absolutely beautiful. 44 years old, lover of Star Wars, never had a clue that the hilt came from a vintage camera flash ❤
definitely looks pretty accurate to me... and it's interesting to see how little they modified it to make the lightsaber
At 7:58 - I believe that what they used was the so called PCB "edge connector" - a very common on many circuit boards that connects together. Back in the day it was most likely some cartridge or industrial PCB that they sawed the end off. But these days you can find these on any desktop computer expansion card. You can get a dead network adapter or GPU for literally a pennies in the nearby PC service/store, or even buy a brand new network adapter for like 5$ to cut off the edge of the connector.
I know you were going for an authentic look, but I think it would be awesome to have the circuit board have your ILTMS circuitry on it.
Awesome project!
That is killer, great job. More Star Wars anytime you want. I love it all.
Actually, not sure if it's totally screen accurate, but it is cool AND it's fun to see you figuring out how to use your "beast" CC machine.
This is so cool, Bob!!
You can tell that Bob enjoys the Star Wars projects just a LITTLE bit more... 🚀🚀🚀
Definitely my favorite!
Amuses me that the photo stuff turns up over and over in 80s sci-fi (says the guy cobbling together an Alien's shoulder lamp.)
Around 25-30 years ago I was a member of the Replica Props Forum and machined Biskit’s Graflex Replicas!
*"IMPRESSIVE...MOST IMPRESSIVE!"* That's so cool. I loved watching this come together. And I little nervous when you did the slots on the freshly machined cylinder LOL
Turned out great Bob! a great project for the mill.
ooh, that thing is awesome Bob! Great job! Next build: real size Death Star?
Not bad, I’d say as it is you’re about 70% there. The biggest one (as others have pointed out) is that the Empire prop had 2 red buttons instead of a glass eye on the front. As it stands right now you have a Force Awakens replica. Then there’s the thin Mylar strip covering the “graflex” stamping around the clamp, black Phillips head screws in the grips, and the grip ends should be flush with the bottom of the hilt. The “beer tab” and small pin on the underside of the back red button should also be removed. If you want to get really nitpicky, then the bottom half should also be nickel-plated brass instead of aluminum. And the tiniest detail would be the shape of the 4 small brass pins in the 2 black circles by the emitter.
Hope that was helpful! Definitely a fun build to see you put together, and would be neat to see small updates made here and there over time should you decide to go that route
This is so cool. I'm jealous that you can just machine the parts you need, but jealous I'm the best way. It's awesome to see you growing in your skills, and using them for the force!
make the blue blade next
This absolutely made my day. Awesome prop build!
Anybody else notice the donut low team shirt? Awesome to see one of my favorite RUclipsrs representing another of my favorite channels!
Awesome job man. Make On my Friends.
Looks awesome Bob, and it looks like you are getting comfortable with the machine tools which is awesome
the donut media low team shirt was the most unexpected crossover. A surprise to be sure, but a welcome one
I'm so jealous you got work with Frank! I would love to learn anything under him, his work is outstanding!
Such a fun build! I really enjoyed it.
A graphlex 3 cell would be amazing. I remember looking at plans back in the early days of the internet and even then they were so expensive to track down
It was definitely still hard to track down. But the hunt was fun!
Be still my heart. OG trilogy gang here. This was such a cool build and it looks amazing! Thanks for sharing!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I see you have constructed a new lightsaber. Your skills are complete, indeed you are powerful as Jimmy has foreseen.
HAHA!
Yes 👍
Great job!
You make it look easy! Awesome results 🙂
Thank you! 😊
Quite welcome!
Ofcourse, the next step is if you're able to make others and/or original designs ;-)
I've been looking forward to this video since you first mentioned it on the Making It Podcast (annnnd the After Show!)
Cool as always, the only diference is the shine in the D ring piece all the rest looks perfect!
Yes! Thank you!
Really cool build. The only comment I would have to improve it would be to not 3D print the grip detail. The black grip pieces were originally windscreen wiper blades and it would have been great to see you use those. I also thought they were attached with pop rivets so would be good to see that detail too.
Fantastic work, Bob! Nicely done! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Great build, I have a 3 cell flash handle I’ve had for over 15 years been debating all this time if I should build one.
Enjoyed watching this , I used to go to Hollywood frequently for my work in the late Seventies and early 80’s to pick up technical supplies for the Live Theater I worked at . I saw an original screen used light saber for sale in a Hollywood shop for only $20 and kept procrastinating. It eventually sold and I have regrets . It looked pretty close to yours .
That's really cool!
Looks like you did a great job, looks fairly accurate to me. Also looks like you're getting more confident with that drill press.
Awesome work! Next step should be adding a sound board and neopixel blade! I haven’t done hilt electronics in like 20 years, so a refresher/update to current tech would be awesome!
That would be cool!
I’m happy to see you making some fun projects with your mill! I noticed that your spindle speeds were pretty slow for Aluminum. (Yes I realize some of the video was slowed down haha) You may have better luck shifting the mill to high gear, especially for the smaller drills and endmills that you were using. Can’t wait to hear about your experience using the machine shop for this project on Making IT!
So epic!
Thanks for making this.
Thanks for watching it!
Very cool build. Looks awesome.
Excited to see the video! Heard about the journey of this on the podcast and while I'm probably biased cause I heard you talk about it, I think the format of this video works, so keep it up! Or don't! But this is good 👍
A couple tiny details, for ESB they put an aluminium or metal tape around the clamp to hide the ‘Graflex’ word around it, it’s definitely part of the look.
Another detail, and this, I understand some people don’t want it, but it is actually visible in Empire Strikes Back, you can actually see the Graflex patent with New York etc written on the pommel during the ice cave scene on Hoth.
Great work though!
Absolutely fantastic! Such a cool prop and also one of the best movies of all time (if not the best).
Great fabrication job on all of it. Screen representative, yes. But accurate - not so much. Not to take away from the effort though, it looks great! I went through a similar process a few years back.
The circuit card you etched looks great. The original did use a real circuit card, from the edge of a board used in elevators.
On the underside, the Empire version replaced the glass eye with another red button that matches the top. Of course, there are also different versions of the red button that were manufactured, something to note.
Keen that you made your own bottom half too. I did similar - just used an aluminum tube and capped the end (also cut my own slots with a Dremel). One thing to note is that the screen used version had the GRAFLEX stamping on the bottom, that does show on screen - it's similar to the stamping on the bottom of your two-cell lower half. And again, there's different versions. I think one is Rochester, one says Folder... I forget which is on what hilt anymore though.
I built a few as gifts over the years, and each time I learn something new about them!
Great job on yours, better than first attempt was for sure! Enjoyed the video too 👍
I actually bought a sterling l2a3 "kit" (real one cut up with a torch where it was no longer functional). I welded it back together, got a real counter, real capacitors and assembled it. I had a few "star wars experts" tell me it wasn't accurate. I told them it was more accurate than anything they had because this is what Lucas used for the e11 storm trooper blaster.
yes perfect it looks so gooood
Nailed it mate
Oh man that was cool!
Went to Ebay for a Graflex and quickly left Ebay after seeing what I saw! YIKES!
Cool build!
Never seen any of the movies but still enjoyed the build!
the Force is strong with this one... great job, Bobby-Wan
(sorry about the terrible pun. couldn't help myself)
HA!
Ayyyy shout out to Low Team! Love the Donut merch!
Wonderful job, it looks great. Nice to see the one tiny part of Frank's shop that isn't secret.
It was a pretty cool place. Sorry we couldn't share too much more of it!
Incredible! I just made a handmade version with slim hairspray cans. Not exactly screen accurate but pretty good for a 1 day build. 😊
Well done. 👍
Pretty cool vid man! The only thing that I would probably say that might help out a little bit, let's check out Roman's Props. He has both parts for complete kits that you build I complete saber from, to conversion kits where you can take parts and pieces to the things that you already have to make saber from that. That would make your job 10x easier I think. He has a BEAUTIFUL Obi wan kit, & I believe parts to make a ROTJ Vader. Which is just a remodeled ESB graflex. So that's the only thing I would say because that might be handy for somebody else who's looking for nuts and bolts, and makes the project a little easier on you if you want to have one in your collection. These sounds could also be converted to neopixel if you want to make it electronic too. So I'm just throwing out there to help you or anybody else! Hope that helps!
That's cool, thanks!
T Track wasn’t rubber, it was a very hard plastic. Awesome job on this!
Oh and we have to thank Seth for making that Lightsaber bible PDF. I'm one of the contributors to his project.
Nice video. Just a couple of comments. The rubber "grips" were actually windshield wiper blades, (from some British military vehicle if I remember correctly), and the circuit board was green on the first one that had it, but seems like I recall the "original" Verdon had a strip from an old Texas Instruments calculator, it was the magnifier strip that went over the LED numbers, and it looked like a row of clear glass bubbles.
I believe I have the same Disney lightsabre but I bought it send hand. And it no longer works. 😢 but it still looks good.
Amazing scratch build. Also, you have the Force Awakens version, just need to throw the glass eye in a lathe and remove the knurling, should be smooth brass.
Awesome build. Frank is the man!
It’s almost perfect. The only thing wrong, that I can see, is that the end of the grips don’t go to the very bottom edge of the hilt. But that’s such a minor critique. It looks great man!
Awesome seein a build as it was made back then! But correct me if I'm wrong, isn't the PCB part an ISA card?
Repping the Donut Media shirt!!!! Awesome to see two of my favorite channels overlap!
You know it!
For the slots, I originally was like "How's he going to turn that and cut the slots" and then I figured if I had to do it, the wall of the material is thin enough you could probably just cut the whole slot with the bit perpendicular to the surface at the straight part (the axial portion of the slot), then just a couple back and forths of the X and Y to make the axial slot wider than the radial slot, and then just run the X axis of the mill over to cut the radial slot. The only difference you'd have vs. cutting it in the dividing head would be that your end surface of the radial slot wouldn't be normal to the surface of the cylinder, but A: that face is really tiny and you probably couldn't tell it wasn't normal to the surface and B: that face gets hidden when you install it.
Fantastic work on making that lightsaber Bob and I know that Obi-Wan would approve! 👍👍💥💥
Suggestion: maybe print the grips using TPE or TPU? Saves a step in the forming I think.
Cue lightsaber nerds telling you that your T track is inaccurate, and 1/32 of a millimeter off.
Pretty sure none of them would say a millimeter has a 1/32 increment
Something worth noting perhaps for a later build. The black grips were actually made from sliding glass door handles in the original film
That’s pretty cool, dude! If I had money, workspace and knowledge, I would be making my own collection of metal lightsaber hilts.
So right, so cool.
Long time viewer, love your videos. I appreciate the different types of projects without going too far outside of your topics/depth. Great job on use your lathe (sp?) to make the handle click-in part after your buddy. Question: when did you get a new chop saw?
I've seen ppl use windscreen wipers for the grip, which I believe is what they used
May the alliance be with you always
Looks great!!!!!
I would like to see you engrave the Kodak info on the bottom as spotted during the Wampa cave scene.
Kodak was not engraved on the bottom. It said GRAFLEX, with some other information about the company. Kodak did make flash handles, but not ones used for Skywalkers sabers.
My verdict is it looks amazing
Hey Bob! When milling 6061, crank that speed up on the bridgeport! About 1000rpm.