Mike, so glad you decided to do the wire tuck.. a few things I might add.. for the inner wheel wells there is a screw that holds them on which is located on the rear of the panel under the rocker panel. On the passenger side. you should run the wires for the MAF now as well through the inner fender. You can also just cap off the cannister line and get a vented gas gap vs. having the line open and venting fumes under the car. I would also cover the inside of the fenders with POR 15 or some other rust prohibitive paint . On the driver side- just drill open a hole on the backside of the shock tower so you can feed the wire harness through, No one will see it,. Ive done that on many cars, You can mount the solenoid on the oppposite side of the inner fender using the same mounting holes. If you still want to cut the headlight harness, get some weatherpack conmaunnectors to reattach the two ends.. it will make it so much easier and then you can also disconnect the two ends easily if needed. Make sure you do not clip off the ground for the EEC. that needs to stay and also connected to the ground cable that you had going from the neg of the battery to ground, I would reuse that cable- cutting off the battery terminal and out on a large lug end- then run it from the timing cover to the chassis for a ground. For the battery in the trunk- you want to use at least 1/0 welding cable for both + and -.. Run the ground in the rear from the battery to the quad shock bracket. I use P clamps to secure the battery cable from the rear to the front along the subframe connectors and up to the trunk area.
All good stuff! Thank you the time taken to respond. All very good info and advice! Should have had you come over to be on video and assist. The cut harness I actually looked at a 15 pin, or multiple molex like connectors to reconnect them The thought was, I should NEVER have to pull these wires out and re-run the, and a soldered connection would last and I wouldnt have to worry about a connector getting loose or getting moisture in it etc..For the in trunk relocation, I'll be using 1 gauge and run both the positive and negative up the frame wells, with P clamps, negative will go straight to the block, positive to the solenoid. Then another 1 gauge from the block to the inner fender where my grounds are. Plus leave the stock ground straps. Great thought about the 4 MAF wires though. I should get them ran now just to the kick panel so it will be there when im ready.
Great!! One other suggestion , I run from the + battery cable in the trunk to a 150 amp fuse or circuit breaker, and then run a cable up to the front of the car to the solenoid. A circuit breaker is better so that all you need to do is reset it if it trips.
I just did my wire tuck in my 86 you can feed the headlight harness threw the hole just cut and re wire the parking lights bulb sockets those were the only wires I cut
That likely was a better method! Right on man. Good job, I admit even from when I did the tuck Ive learned a bit more on this stuff. Either way I guess works, but obviously less wires cut the better. Feel free to shoot a pic and email it to me, I'd like to see how you ran it. prisonplanet88@gmail.com
Hello im going to go look at a 86 engine harness im not sure of any certain plugs i should look for any help? Want to make sure i get the right harness
Unless I'm misunderstanding. Both sides of the solenoid are hot. One hot to battery, the other side is bridged when car starts and hot applied so wouldnt want to run any grounds to the solenoid. Ground is just that, tied to chassis and block. The bolt was a sure way to get all grounds to a fail-safe connector tied (welded) to the chassis. So, just need to relate grounds to a good solid chassis ground and make sure motor has good grounds too.
+VINCENZO NAPOLITANO - I did! Just looked and i see them now. Damn that car is clean! Makes we kinda want to paint mine the stock color. Black! Im going to have to clan up my gas tanks plastic cover, makes a big difference when its cleaned up
Mike Dula thanks man if want more pic in deatel I will send it to you with no proplem it will be my pleasure to help you out for ideas I enjoy watching your video's fox body mustang any couler is nice but for me black is my fervor couler😎 glad I found this channel have a great weekend bro👍
Hey Mike, I’m starting my driver side on my ‘86 now. Did you just separate the wires and plug going to the master cylinder from the rest of the harness, so it didn’t go into fenderwell?
Man that's pretty good, u seem to know a lot about the name's of all this wire crap...lol I do work on mostly old cars,this newer stuff is confusing. Good luck my friend...lol
MrMikestang63 I've seen the LMR ones not sure how well they work everyone I know including myself run the scottrod fab ones but yeh now is a perfect time to get those panels smooth
Nice job!...I am waiting for Black Friday to hopefully get a good deal on a battery relocation kit for my 85 foxbody and will attempt to tuck a few wires while at it this winter. Thanks for the well done video!.....Off topic, there is a great looking 69 Torino GT project for sale right now on Craigs List San Antonio, a bit ambitious on the price, but it is super straight and 99% complete! check it out!
Just looked. It is a original GT / AC which is pretty cool and looks pretty solid, your right though it looks VERY original and unmolested. If its truely rust free its worth saving and price these days is not too far off. I'd offer the guy 3500...Wish I was rich and had a shop! lol. Id just restore that one back to original looks to be blue on blue.
youtube unsubscribed me from you.??????? ....I was waiting for the install video but if it wasn't for the feed on the side bar it may have been days before I seen this one. not sure how it happened cause I didn't confirm unsub at all..
Fucking wires....the one thing I neglected on my build. I have zero issues with completely rebuilding an engine from scratch but them wires.....hate em.
There’s a company called Scott Rod I think is the name. They make fabricated fender aprons to hide all your wiring so you don’t have to go through this headache of wires
This is true...You still have to move the wires though, and go through the tuck headache....The scott rod panels are for after the tuck, they smooth the inner panels and fill the swiss cheese of holes that comes from the factory.
Mike- go with a 93 gear reduction starter. It places so much less load on the system and has more power to start your car,. Its a VERY easy hookup- you swap the starter cable from one side of the solenoid to the other post and install a 10 gauge hot wire from the old solenoid post to the solenoid on the starter. Its a direct bolt in,
Looking good Mike, the engine bay will be so much cleaner! Looking forward to watching the next one.
Mike, so glad you decided to do the wire tuck.. a few things I might add.. for the inner wheel wells there is a screw that holds them on which is located on the rear of the panel under the rocker panel. On the passenger side. you should run the wires for the MAF now as well through the inner fender. You can also just cap off the cannister line and get a vented gas gap vs. having the line open and venting fumes under the car. I would also cover the inside of the fenders with POR 15 or some other rust prohibitive paint . On the driver side- just drill open a hole on the backside of the shock tower so you can feed the wire harness through, No one will see it,. Ive done that on many cars, You can mount the solenoid on the oppposite side of the inner fender using the same mounting holes. If you still want to cut the headlight harness, get some weatherpack conmaunnectors to reattach the two ends.. it will make it so much easier and then you can also disconnect the two ends easily if needed. Make sure you do not clip off the ground for the EEC. that needs to stay and also connected to the ground cable that you had going from the neg of the battery to ground, I would reuse that cable- cutting off the battery terminal and out on a large lug end- then run it from the timing cover to the chassis for a ground. For the battery in the trunk- you want to use at least 1/0 welding cable for both + and -.. Run the ground in the rear from the battery to the quad shock bracket. I use P clamps to secure the battery cable from the rear to the front along the subframe connectors and up to the trunk area.
All good stuff! Thank you the time taken to respond. All very good info and advice! Should have had you come over to be on video and assist. The cut harness I actually looked at a 15 pin, or multiple molex like connectors to reconnect them The thought was, I should NEVER have to pull these wires out and re-run the, and a soldered connection would last and I wouldnt have to worry about a connector getting loose or getting moisture in it etc..For the in trunk relocation, I'll be using 1 gauge and run both the positive and negative up the frame wells, with P clamps, negative will go straight to the block, positive to the solenoid. Then another 1 gauge from the block to the inner fender where my grounds are. Plus leave the stock ground straps. Great thought about the 4 MAF wires though. I should get them ran now just to the kick panel so it will be there when im ready.
Great!! One other suggestion , I run from the + battery cable in the trunk to a 150 amp fuse or circuit breaker, and then run a cable up to the front of the car to the solenoid. A circuit breaker is better so that all you need to do is reset it if it trips.
See that's what I'm talking about. That's kick ass.
And as for much of us, we thank you for what you do.
keepem rollin keepem tucked lookin good
Good stuff Mike!
Very nice, bro. Always was curious about the wire tucked cars.
Nicely done!
Nice Man! Gonna be doing the same on mine once I get the motor out. Ready for the challenge!
Thanks Justin. Wanting to pull the trigger on the scott rod panels....while im here and the motor is out kinda thing ;)
I just did my wire tuck in my 86 you can feed the headlight harness threw the hole just cut and re wire the parking lights bulb sockets those were the only wires I cut
That likely was a better method! Right on man. Good job, I admit even from when I did the tuck Ive learned a bit more on this stuff. Either way I guess works, but obviously less wires cut the better. Feel free to shoot a pic and email it to me, I'd like to see how you ran it. prisonplanet88@gmail.com
Nice job Mike
Looking good brother
You got that wheel off so fast!
Movie magic!
thank you for this video! it was actually very helpful for me (doing a little wire tuck on a 1989 with a 1993 harness)
What is the name of that black plastic wrap that the wires go thru
Im ready to get out of bed and start mine
Do-it-to-it! Its pretty easy honestly. Passenger side can be done in an hour.
Great Videos
Hello im going to go look at a 86 engine harness im not sure of any certain plugs i should look for any help? Want to make sure i get the right harness
Do u have to run the ground cables to a bolt? Cant u run them to the solenoid?
Unless I'm misunderstanding. Both sides of the solenoid are hot. One hot to battery, the other side is bridged when car starts and hot applied so wouldnt want to run any grounds to the solenoid. Ground is just that, tied to chassis and block. The bolt was a sure way to get all grounds to a fail-safe connector tied (welded) to the chassis. So, just need to relate grounds to a good solid chassis ground and make sure motor has good grounds too.
HOUSE OF DULA ah okay gotcha! Thanks for the reply
Nice video bro thanks can't wait to see your next video have a great weekend 😎 did you get my pic?
+VINCENZO NAPOLITANO - I did! Just looked and i see them now. Damn that car is clean! Makes we kinda want to paint mine the stock color. Black! Im going to have to clan up my gas tanks plastic cover, makes a big difference when its cleaned up
Mike Dula thanks man if want more pic in deatel I will send it to you with no proplem it will be my pleasure to help you out for ideas I enjoy watching your video's fox body mustang any couler is nice but for me black is my fervor couler😎 glad I found this channel have a great weekend bro👍
Hey bud if you want to know anymore info on wire tucking look up almost stock wire tuck. He is on most of the mustang forums.
His name is Paul and you can find him on the Corral.net. Also - DAve aka Sonic Cherry aka Ozz has a website with wiretuck installations
Hey Mike, I’m starting my driver side on my ‘86 now. Did you just separate the wires and plug going to the master cylinder from the rest of the harness, so it didn’t go into fenderwell?
No. Im using a 93 cobra 1" master cylider when I did my 5 lug swap so Im not even using the plug. Its tucked away with the rest of the harness.
Man that's pretty good, u seem to know a lot about the name's of all this wire crap...lol I do work on mostly old cars,this newer stuff is confusing. Good luck my friend...lol
The windshield washer part had me laughing. Mine been cracked on my sn95 so I feel your pain
Nice job. Would've been a good time to smoothen out the engine bay.
Still might! Im undecided at the moment.
LMR sells weld in smooth panels for under $150,,, man I love spending other guy's money :)
MrMikestang63 I've seen the LMR ones not sure how well they work everyone I know including myself run the scottrod fab ones but yeh now is a perfect time to get those panels smooth
Hey Mike, did that work out with the one connector that went down by the break lines? Did the inner fender fit back ok?
Yessir. Tight, but all went back where it belongs.
Let me get back to the led vid am I'm good. Lol.
This is more fun I promise :)
@@HOUSEOFDULA your an animal.
Nice job!...I am waiting for Black Friday to hopefully get a good deal on a battery relocation kit for my 85 foxbody and will attempt to tuck a few wires while at it this winter. Thanks for the well done video!.....Off topic, there is a great looking 69 Torino GT project for sale right now on Craigs List San Antonio, a bit ambitious on the price, but it is super straight and 99% complete! check it out!
Just looked. It is a original GT / AC which is pretty cool and looks pretty solid, your right though it looks VERY original and unmolested. If its truely rust free its worth saving and price these days is not too far off. I'd offer the guy 3500...Wish I was rich and had a shop! lol. Id just restore that one back to original looks to be blue on blue.
youtube unsubscribed me from you.??????? ....I was waiting for the install video but if it wasn't for the feed on the side bar it may have been days before I seen this one. not sure how it happened cause I didn't confirm unsub at all..
Fucking wires....the one thing I neglected on my build. I have zero issues with completely rebuilding an engine from scratch but them wires.....hate em.
There’s a company called Scott Rod I think is the name. They make fabricated fender aprons to hide all your wiring so you don’t have to go through this headache of wires
This is true...You still have to move the wires though, and go through the tuck headache....The scott rod panels are for after the tuck, they smooth the inner panels and fill the swiss cheese of holes that comes from the factory.
please people, stop playing the annoying songs in the background. love the vids, but really
Can you not be like those Swag facts can you please keep the original starter
The starter? or solenoid?
Mike Dula the starter the old you know how the 86 through 92 starters is difference I like the other one the old started
Never paid that much attention, seem the same to me. tooth count can be different though from the years.
Mike- go with a 93 gear reduction starter. It places so much less load on the system and has more power to start your car,. Its a VERY easy hookup- you swap the starter cable from one side of the solenoid to the other post and install a 10 gauge hot wire from the old solenoid post to the solenoid on the starter. Its a direct bolt in,