Nice job Mike! I honestly think you'd be good running a ground from the engine block to the frame in the bay or firewall. I understand your reasoning behind it but the shorter the better and less work. It's just like welding you want your ground close so that the circuit makes a better connection. Keep up the good work brother!
Great work i seen alot of turbo guy's that are lazy with relocating their batteries. I run carbureted and I've always been sketchy about having a battery next to my gas tank in such a confined space in case of a rear collision but that's just my opinion.
Good point not a lot talk about safety wise and definately something to consider. Also why its important to have that mega fuse as close to the batt as possible and enclosed.
I'm relocating on my 93 gt, so if I understand correctly I only need to run 1 power cord to the front for starter solenoid, and the ground I can get a solid ground in the rear ?
idk if you figured it out by now, but you need 2 connections from the battery positive to the front of then car. one if battery poasitive > starter > alternator. The other is battery positive >fuse fox/fuse block. Your ground connection can be made battery negative > body as long as everything in the engine has a good body ground as well.
Hey Mike, sorry if there was any conusion as I thought I had recommended that you run the ground from the battery to the QUAD shock bracket on the rear frame, not the rear shock nut. I've run several cars that way with no problem. I also would not recommend you use the battery hold down threaded rod as a ground- if it breaks off or comes lose, you lose all ground. Make sure you run a vent line from the battery box to the outside as you need to have the gases vented. I would also add another ground from the timing cover to the chassis- just replace the existing battery terminal on the existing neg battery cable with a lug end and tie that to the frame rail or sway bar bracket.
No, you did say quad shock, It wasnt from you. I tried to not expose any of the cable outside the car so I didnt want to drill through the floor to get to the quad mount. If the mount broke say to the floor, both mounts would have to break because the top hold down bridges the connections to both mount studs. Also I would have to break the top nut on the stud that ties into the other cable going to the front of the car. Im venting the box tonight. Didnt "foget it" lol but did forget to add it to the install vid. I do plan to run a block ground as well. I have a new 4 gauge wire I made for a new ground before moving the battery I plan to keep using.
Well done my friend🤘 I did almost the same but the only difference is I never run the ground cable from front to the battery in the back I just ground only from the body to the battery and now I dont have dash lights and tachometer and runs like diesel...
Thats most likely the engine block and ecu not getting a good ground. Not necessary to run a ground allll the way back to the engine from the batt. If you have solid grounds. If you dont that would explain your issue likely. Check grounds expecially engine block and ecu, check voltage off the + starter solenoid to engine block and see if it matches the battery, likely will be a lot lower.
I know this is an old video, hopefully you can help me though. Im about to relocate my battery to the rear as well. Would i be better with one ground at the rear, close to the battery. Or one close to the battery, and one that goes to the engine block as well?
Both. I ground at battery, at the front engine bay and the engine block. I grount the battery to the battery tray tie-downs. More grounds the better along your route back to the engine bay.
@@93FORDMUSTANG - Yep. I welded a stud on the subframe behind the rear passenger wheel, the battery goes straight to it then to the block. That grounds the front o the car and the engine.
Do you have a parts list? Mainly need the fuse that you used. It looks like one that I have that a friend gave me with these wires. I’d like to go this route on my fuse tho.
very nice job Mr. Dula !!! keep up the good work and b4 you know it that Engine will be making that nice loapy sound that everyone cant wait for when you turn that key on that project and it fires up!! HELL YEA!! then you need to go in debt for a minute like I am doing with my 86 Engine swap to get that custom ordered turbo and everything else involved in that fun!! thanks again for nicely done instructional videos that you do you just motivated me to finish my battery relocation today as we are having 50 degree weather with sun in Michigan which is pretty good considering where i live . you the man you might want to weld in a bung downstream for wide band and plug it now cause I am trying to do same thing while everything is out of car. HAPPY HOLIDAYS !!
I just done the battery relocation but I have tons on my solenoid and wanting to get some of it off how can I do that ? What did you do ? I have the power going to starter from solenoid as I have the 94-95 starter on my car as well as power from my led headlights 1 wire alternator on my solenoid and then just your regular wires to run the car. I have an 85 if that helps can’t seem to find a video to get the accessories off of the solenoid
Yeah what you need to do is buy a power terminal bank like this www.amazon.com/Power-Distribution-Block-BUSBAR-Cover/dp/B07CCGCWKD/ref=asc_df_B07CCGCWKD/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=316623965946&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14509143035960269802&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027230&hvtargid=pla-583355888867&psc=1 You can then put this between the always hot, or key on power, hid it away and add accessoris to it, and move some of it off the terminal.
Do you recommend removing the cruise control system if I’m not planning to use it at all? Even when I had the steering wheel with the control I never used it
I did. Because it didnt work though. If it works Id keep it...I removed it to free up room for the wire tuck and have one less cable under the hood ;) Personal preference Id say.
Oh man...I cant recal! was not much at all. Box I think was 80 bucks, cable all in all was about 45 from amazon, and then you need heat shrink and terminal ends. This is the box: www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1231
@@HOUSEOFDULA oh my gosh you answered! Dude thank you! I loved your video. I’m so going to paint mine a cooler 🤣. If you have Instagram I’d tag you once I finish it haha
Should always fuse any hot wire. Stock ones are fused as well, but especially when running thick gauge for that length. If anything cuts or nicks that sheathing anywhere from the batt all the way up to the solenoid, nothing would stop it from arcing, melting down, and causing a fire that could burn the car to the ground. Thats why the fuse is as close to that batt as I can.
Be sure to ground the engine to the passenger side of the car (if you are not planning to do so already). I would highly recommend grounding your cylinder heads to the passenger side of the car as well. Ran a new ground wire on my dads car because he has a relocated battery and the original ground was still run to the drivers side. Installed a new ground wire on the passenger side of the engine block and did his cylinder heads too. Car runs hard on the bottle. Don't over like how important cylinder head grounding is. Makes a big difference on cars with aluminum heads.
Hello Mike, I'm doing a step by step install on my 87 GT based on your video. I have a quick question. What size (amps) is the mega fuse that you installed?
New subscriber here. Just found your channel searching for battery grounding issues. I was having this same problem on my Chevy nova although I think my issue is a grind that's not big enough. Where did you buy these cables? Thanks. I will be watching from now on. Good video btw
Nice job Mike looks clean, been wanting to do that to my 90 Gt, approximately how such was your material cost so I can have an idea how much to budget for the job.
Surprisingly light. Unfortunately its not solid core copper, but aluminum copper cladded wire, and I never weighed it. It flexes nice, and is light, but could later corrode and is not as good as a conductor as copper core. This is why I went up in gauge as much as I did.
Dude, its all new interior too! well, the carpet is (carpet, hatch carpet, and floor mats), not even a year old. Its light gray attracts everything. No excuse but I swear the camera changes to color of it too. Looks dirtier on camera I swear it does lol Im doing so much work on it, when its all said and done, it does need some shampoo and vacuuming.
Instagram is coming, specifically for the channel. Other than that just standard facebook and twitter. But, I will be honest, not much is posted other than family stuff. The instagram account is under houseofdula and will start having content on it soon.
good video but I think it just looks bad and takes up space in the back (id personally never put 1 in the back) ...that's just me and with a mustang you make it how YOU would like it to look not HOW others think it should look. JUST my 2 pennies......................about the 20th time you take the car apart and put it back together you get a handle on where all the pieces ,parts and screws go by just looking at them.
I've always did solder and crimp. I fix semis and that's the method we use! Good to see someone else does it
Never thought about soldering the connection like that, thanks for the tip brother
Sweet,you did a hell of a soldering job!!That is solid as a rock,lol.I think it looks great, that's were you want it.Over the right rear tire.
Thank you Frank. Should last hopefully. I did the same method on the Torino and its been super solid.
Great job , car is beautiful and it nice seeing it come together. Can't wait when the Mustang starts up and comes to life!
Thanks Brian! Should be soon
I’ll tell ya looks so good! The soldering job was great! You did a great job!!
Thank you!
Just came across part 1 and 2.
Great videos!!!
Very informative!!!
Keep up the good work!
Thank you! Much appreciated. Stick around, got lots of new content Im adding.
Came out good man! I wouldn't be unhappy with how that came out at all. Really like how you did the terminals.
Nice job Mike! I honestly think you'd be good running a ground from the engine block to the frame in the bay or firewall. I understand your reasoning behind it but the shorter the better and less work. It's just like welding you want your ground close so that the circuit makes a better connection. Keep up the good work brother!
I think you right, was trying to be safer than sorry but the extra cable under the carpet and extra work might not be necessary.
I need a steering wheel door panel seat belts front and rear do u have a site I can go on so I can c wat all u have
give me your number my number is 704.232.9055
Great work i seen alot of turbo guy's that are lazy with relocating their batteries. I run carbureted and I've always been sketchy about having a battery next to my gas tank in such a confined space in case of a rear collision but that's just my opinion.
Good point not a lot talk about safety wise and definately something to consider. Also why its important to have that mega fuse as close to the batt as possible and enclosed.
I’m having an issue with the car not starting after it gets hot, I mounted it the same way u did pretty much
Stronger battery and mini starter that didnt heat soak took care of this.
I'm relocating on my 93 gt, so if I understand correctly I only need to run 1 power cord to the front for starter solenoid, and the ground I can get a solid ground in the rear ?
idk if you figured it out by now, but you need 2 connections from the battery positive to the front of then car. one if battery poasitive > starter > alternator. The other is battery positive >fuse fox/fuse block. Your ground connection can be made battery negative > body as long as everything in the engine has a good body ground as well.
Hey Mike, sorry if there was any conusion as I thought I had recommended that you run the ground from the battery to the QUAD shock bracket on the rear frame, not the rear shock nut. I've run several cars that way with no problem. I also would not recommend you use the battery hold down threaded rod as a ground- if it breaks off or comes lose, you lose all ground. Make sure you run a vent line from the battery box to the outside as you need to have the gases vented. I would also add another ground from the timing cover to the chassis- just replace the existing battery terminal on the existing neg battery cable with a lug end and tie that to the frame rail or sway bar bracket.
No, you did say quad shock, It wasnt from you. I tried to not expose any of the cable outside the car so I didnt want to drill through the floor to get to the quad mount. If the mount broke say to the floor, both mounts would have to break because the top hold down bridges the connections to both mount studs. Also I would have to break the top nut on the stud that ties into the other cable going to the front of the car. Im venting the box tonight. Didnt "foget it" lol but did forget to add it to the install vid. I do plan to run a block ground as well. I have a new 4 gauge wire I made for a new ground before moving the battery I plan to keep using.
Well done my friend🤘 I did almost the same but the only difference is I never run the ground cable from front to the battery in the back I just ground only from the body to the battery and now I dont have dash lights and tachometer and runs like diesel...
Thats most likely the engine block and ecu not getting a good ground. Not necessary to run a ground allll the way back to the engine from the batt. If you have solid grounds. If you dont that would explain your issue likely. Check grounds expecially engine block and ecu, check voltage off the + starter solenoid to engine block and see if it matches the battery, likely will be a lot lower.
Great video but how to consider the leakage of poison gas from the battery entry to the cabin? thanks
Well it came with a vent tube, you can run through the floor. I switched to an Optima AGM battery shortly after this.
Great n thank much !!
I know this is an old video, hopefully you can help me though. Im about to relocate my battery to the rear as well. Would i be better with one ground at the rear, close to the battery. Or one close to the battery, and one that goes to the engine block as well?
Both. I ground at battery, at the front engine bay and the engine block. I grount the battery to the battery tray tie-downs. More grounds the better along your route back to the engine bay.
@@HOUSEOFDULA thats for the reply! Did you run your block ground to that same point under the fender?
@@93FORDMUSTANG - Yep. I welded a stud on the subframe behind the rear passenger wheel, the battery goes straight to it then to the block. That grounds the front o the car and the engine.
Do you have a parts list? Mainly need the fuse that you used. It looks like one that I have that a friend gave me with these wires. I’d like to go this route on my fuse tho.
Is it not in the description? Let me double check.
very nice job Mr. Dula !!! keep up the good work and b4 you know it that Engine will be making that nice loapy sound that everyone cant wait for when you turn that key on that project and it fires up!! HELL YEA!! then you need to go in debt for a minute like I am doing with my 86 Engine swap to get that custom ordered turbo and everything else involved in that fun!! thanks again for nicely done instructional videos that you do you just motivated me to finish my battery relocation today as we are having 50 degree weather with sun in Michigan which is pretty good considering where i live . you the man you might want to weld in a bung downstream for wide band and plug it now cause I am trying to do same thing while everything is out of car. HAPPY HOLIDAYS !!
Thanks man! cheers! keep at it, glad these vids at the VERY least help motivate folks to get wrenching. Good idea about the wide band bung now!
What if the posts aren’t welded in but just bolted, can you still use that as a ground like you did?
I just done the battery relocation but I have tons on my solenoid and wanting to get some of it off how can I do that ? What did you do ? I have the power going to starter from solenoid as I have the 94-95 starter on my car as well as power from my led headlights 1 wire alternator on my solenoid and then just your regular wires to run the car. I have an 85 if that helps can’t seem to find a video to get the accessories off of the solenoid
The solenoid is also where a power is to my msd box.
Yeah what you need to do is buy a power terminal bank like this www.amazon.com/Power-Distribution-Block-BUSBAR-Cover/dp/B07CCGCWKD/ref=asc_df_B07CCGCWKD/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=316623965946&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14509143035960269802&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027230&hvtargid=pla-583355888867&psc=1 You can then put this between the always hot, or key on power, hid it away and add accessoris to it, and move some of it off the terminal.
Nice job bro 😎
Do you recommend removing the cruise control system if I’m not planning to use it at all? Even when I had the steering wheel with the control I never used it
I did. Because it didnt work though. If it works Id keep it...I removed it to free up room for the wire tuck and have one less cable under the hood ;) Personal preference Id say.
Awesome man! Clean install!
Gosh I know this is five yaers ago but I hope you answer. How much was everything?
Oh man...I cant recal! was not much at all. Box I think was 80 bucks, cable all in all was about 45 from amazon, and then you need heat shrink and terminal ends. This is the box: www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1231
@@HOUSEOFDULA oh my gosh you answered! Dude thank you! I loved your video. I’m so going to paint mine a cooler 🤣. If you have Instagram I’d tag you once I finish it haha
@@danielpicado5292 Of course man! Im still makin vids and cranking them out. Im all over social brother! Hit me up, @houseofdula or houseofdula.com
So what is the purpose of the fuse ? Sorry for the uneducated question. My last mustang I didn’t have a fuse so I’m just curious
Should always fuse any hot wire. Stock ones are fused as well, but especially when running thick gauge for that length. If anything cuts or nicks that sheathing anywhere from the batt all the way up to the solenoid, nothing would stop it from arcing, melting down, and causing a fire that could burn the car to the ground. Thats why the fuse is as close to that batt as I can.
Be sure to ground the engine to the passenger side of the car (if you are not planning to do so already). I would highly recommend grounding your cylinder heads to the passenger side of the car as well. Ran a new ground wire on my dads car because he has a relocated battery and the original ground was still run to the drivers side. Installed a new ground wire on the passenger side of the engine block and did his cylinder heads too. Car runs hard on the bottle. Don't over like how important cylinder head grounding is. Makes a big difference on cars with aluminum heads.
allllll yea iam defintly using that solder trick
Hello Mike, I'm doing a step by step install on my 87 GT based on your video. I have a quick question. What size (amps) is the mega fuse that you installed?
Ground wires should never be any longer then 3 feet. Love your work and your videos.
Appreciate it man!
Hey Mike, did u drill the vent for the battery?
Not yet! Need to, have not forgot but did forget to add it to the video to complete the install.
Awesome video, really helped me out on my 94 GT. What part of the Lone star you in?
Great! Heck yeah man...Im in North Texas, Dallas/Ft. Worth area.
What size of fuse are you using? I had an 150 that kept blowing when I would start it.
Me too. 150's would blow during long cranking. I just put in a 175, no issues yet. Long wire runs increase the amp draw.
What size fuse did you use??
Main batt fuse I believe was a 150amp
New subscriber here. Just found your channel searching for battery grounding issues. I was having this same problem on my Chevy nova although I think my issue is a grind that's not big enough. Where did you buy these cables? Thanks. I will be watching from now on. Good video btw
Appreciate it and welcome! They are 1 gauge cables from Amazon, stereo stuff.
What size fuse did you use for the Mega fuse holder?
I think he said 175 amp
Nice job Mike looks clean, been wanting to do that to my 90 Gt, approximately how such was your material cost so I can have an idea how much to budget for the job.
Look at the description in part 1. I have a parts list and cost breakdown.
How much does that 25' cable weigh?
Surprisingly light. Unfortunately its not solid core copper, but aluminum copper cladded wire, and I never weighed it. It flexes nice, and is light, but could later corrode and is not as good as a conductor as copper core. This is why I went up in gauge as much as I did.
Is the mega fuse required or just insurance?
Hey mike not to judge change that dirty interior lol already halfway there but keep up the good work on the build
Dude, its all new interior too! well, the carpet is (carpet, hatch carpet, and floor mats), not even a year old. Its light gray attracts everything. No excuse but I swear the camera changes to color of it too. Looks dirtier on camera I swear it does lol Im doing so much work on it, when its all said and done, it does need some shampoo and vacuuming.
Hey were did you get the kit from?
Summit Racing. Its their brand universal kit. 63 bucks I think.
Do you have any kind of social media to follow?
Instagram is coming, specifically for the channel. Other than that just standard facebook and twitter. But, I will be honest, not much is posted other than family stuff. The instagram account is under houseofdula and will start having content on it soon.
good video but I think it just looks bad and takes up space in the back (id personally never put 1 in the back) ...that's just me and with a mustang you make it how YOU would like it to look not HOW others think it should look. JUST my 2 pennies......................about the 20th time you take the car apart and put it back together you get a handle on where all the pieces ,parts and screws go by just looking at them.
This is true man. Its not for everyone. Ive been known to change my mind later lol and pull it all back out and back in the factory spot...Who knows.