Just upgraded my alternator on my '86 last night, thank you for the video. I wouldn't have been able to do do it without the cable clarification in as much detail as you showed. Thank you!
Love me both those guys, watch em just about nightly. I also watch foxcast media, justin91lx ,FabForums, junk yard digs ;) And Im a roadkill / hot rod garage fan..So at night I too get nothing done!
I have a 93 lx mustang I'm working on it was my grandfathers before he passed. Right now I'm removing the rust from underneath the car n switching from 4 cylinder to 5.0 I can't wait till I finish it
THANK YOU! Really appreciate the detailed explanation for wiring it up. Simple yes...but only if you have actually seen it done. Every other video I have checked out has skimmed over it. Beautiful Mustang. Great video. Thanks again.
The 3g alternator makes a difference. I got mine out of the junk yard from a cougar well that was me being cheap lol. But all your wiring looks on point cant wait to see the fox all finished up and running 👍👍👍
3g pigtail duralast part is actually 224 when you go to autozone! It’s on the side of the box, thanks for your video I’m in the process right now on my fox!
Nicely done man! That was definitely an upgrade I did to my 86 as well. Those 2G alternators are weak to say the least. I know I've said it before, but those terminal ends come out clean. I have to replace my battery wires and terminals, so I'll definitely be taking a page out of your book for those.
I have always modified my electrical systems in all of my cars starting with a bigger and more efficient alternator along with heavier gauge wiring for the charging and starting system as one of the first things I modify weather it has a booming stereo or not. Most guys overlook their electrical systems and wonder why their car is gutless after spending thousands of dollars and continue to throw more after it. In my 86 Capri I had a 240 amp one wire setup installed back in 96. It had a sweet system in it. It was a show car but it also went like a scared rabbit. It pays to have a good friend in a starter and alternator rebuilding shop. In my case he was the owner.lol.
You bet Justin. Still need to hang out, Im off all week and knocking things off the list. Yet to go is the fuel pump, MAF swap and some small odds and ends. I tested fuel pressure tonight and shes good. No leaks.
You are correct , if you put alternator cable on starter post of solenoid you will send voltage to starter when engine is running and will burn out alternator. Before 92 the old style starter only had power cable from solenoid ! The alternator output cable always goes on the solenoid terminal which has the cable connected to the battery and the wires that power the car ! Nothing goes on the other terminal but the large starter cable.
PA-462802A. this is the correct plug you need for the 86. If you don't use this you will eventually burn out the regulator and overcharge. I have an 86 also . great video. wish it was up 10 years ago when I did my alt upgrade.
I know those under drive pulleys look cool ,just a word of advice .I had the same set up on a daily driver with the 3G and at night in traffic the headlights would dim down then brighten up with throttle .I run a electric fan,I use my A/C and have a amp on my stereo .I had to go back to my stock pulleys to fix the problem .
Good to know. I'm keeping the longer serpentine belt for this reason. I will eventually run an e-fan but wont have an amp or anything else high amp. Still, appreciate the advice, I'll be keeping a close eye on it.
that looks like a cold solder connection. the moment that cold wire hits the solder it hardens, it looks great. but it would be better if you put the wire in the connector, crimped it down, and heated it with the wire in it before adding the solder. it wont be as pretty, but it will allow the solder to flow into the copper wire and give a much better connection.
Appreciate the comment. I dont recall on this video. Typically I heat the wire up until the solder flows into the wire. Then heat shrink. A lot of times I will do as you mention, crimp, then heat wire / crimp until solder gets sucked in. Either way, I know there are improvements I can make when it comes to electrical!
@@HOUSEOFDULA I agree with John May when you don't heat the wire the solder will harden before it has a chance to penetrate the wire and the cold joint will corrode faster and fail it's also not taking advantage of the whole wire it makes it like your using a smaller wire but nice car you've done a wonderful job turning that car into beautiful ride keep the videos coming .
Great how to vid! You can find some info on these 2g to 3g conversions though. Now finding one to convert my 1g to 3g was impossible lol. Ended up rolling the dice and started wiring. Thankfully it did the trick, but I didn't document to help others :/
Good to know! I dont see the 150amp blowing with almost zero accessories on mine, but still, good to know I could blow it and likely replace it with a 175.
Cool! glad to help out when I can, Im pretty cheap so I try to share what works for me...lol the texan. Yeah IDK, I guess you grow out of it, most dont have a strong slang unless your from the country. Ive grown up in the DFW area my entire life, so really a city boy I guess is why idk lol
So, I found on my 98 escort that the head bolts are the same fit as the primary alternator bolt. I got the car without the alt bolt, and something just felt right about it lol.
I bought dei protect a sleeve to put over my clutch cable , battery cable and or fuel lines if they end up anywhere near my long tubes I also didn’t know all heat shrink tubing was created equal either since dei uses it finish the ends of the sleeve that’s supposedly able to withstand 1800-2500 degrees of heat. I didn’t think any heatshrink tubing could handle close to that much heat.
I have two fuse links connected here at the started solenoid what do I do with them ??? I believe one is the ecm positive and i don’t know what the other one is . Thanks for these vids by the way.
Mike, good move NOT reusing the factory 2G 10 guage power wires. They are a fire hazard. The same reason you said the original wiring is inadequate is why you do not reuse them. Current will always seek the path of least resistance and if you get a power spike that will be the smaller factory wires.. Just tape them off. The new 4 gauge wire is more than enough and will work fine. Also, the 86 car is unique in the wiring of the regulator in that the factory plug does not have a white stator wire- that is why you MUST use the new 3G plug which you can get from the junkyard, LMR or Summit. on 87-93 the factory regulator plug has the stator wire which you can just tap into and run a connecto to the new 3G alternator and reuse the stock Regulator plug. Leave the 150 amo fuse you want the fuse to be higher than the amp on the altnator. It is there to stop a spike.. Also why not just run the 4 gauge power wire on the lower radiator support and into the driver fender...that would be cleaner. YOu can also install a junction block inside the driver fende like this Carwires PDB300 - 3-Way Power Distribution Block -r run alll the power wires to it, and then you can run just one power wire from the distribution block to the starter solenoid. A lot cleaner install... Great work on doing these videos as you are helping out a lot of guys.
Im no expect. Wish I was or my vids would be a bit more educational. Good info about the 86 and now I know why It didnt have the white wire. I was midway through the video of the install and realized my white was missing! Ive used the 3G on classic fords and the white wire always tapped into a power source, output I believe. Thanks for the kudos in regards to maikng these vids. I hope other more or less learn with me. But Im no expert lol, there are guys who have built these cars their entire life and they are ones helping me out all the time....Appreciate the comment. The power block idea is also great.
i've been around mustangs for 35 years and always like to pay it forward and share what I can. Wish I was close as I would be happy to help out. i've watched this project from the beginning and its great to see that you have done all of this work by yourself, which motivates others to try and do the sa,e. You've done a heck of a lot more than most guys can do in your garage. Hope you dont mind me adding my 2 cents... not at all trying to be critical,. Can't wait to see it all come together. The car should be fun to drive and run high 11's.
Nice Vid. I bought an 86 gt about 5 yrs. ago did not know it had a 3g Alternator till about a month ago that it gave out. So basically my question is how necessary is it to run the 4gauge cable? Since i did not see any running on mine. Thankz for the great Vids you are making.
Just to make sure Im tracking... you ditched the entire Black/Orange ILO the new power cable. The bundle of wires going to my alternator includes a Green/Red wire... i have not been able to identify exactly what its for.... i think its for a dash light for the charging system. thoughts?
Your problem with fitting the 4AWg cable to the alternator stems from using the incorrect lug on the wire. the hole in the lug should fit the post securely with minimal play.
I didn't disconnect my battery and cut the black/orange wires and they fell onto the body of the 3G alternator. A buzzing noise and some smoke from my starter solenoid. The car starts and runs fine but now my voltage gauge will only show 12 volts and when I check at the battery it's only charging 12 volts. No idea what I fried. Someone help!
Hello Sir, thanks foe sharing this video.. did you run into a low voltage problem after this conversion? I did a 3g conversion on my 88 fox and its a stock 4cyl 5speed. It starts no problem at all but having a low voltage problem.
Have you looked at the explorer front accessory brackets? I'm thinking about using them they kinda move everything more in front of the engine which I s gonna help for my turbo set up plus I like where they relocated the accessories
I don't know much about alternators specifically but I do know a lot about general electrical and just wondering if there is a good reason that you chose to put the fuse all the way over by the alt rather than near the battery? As close to the battery as possible is general best practice for a fuse so I didn't know if there were other factors involved in a circuit where you basically have a power source at both ends, although the factory fuse link is at the solenoid so I assume not but don't know for sure. From my little knowledge of how alternators work, I believe the alternator will not put out power without the stator being energized by the battery anyway so if there was a short that popped the fuse, the cable would be dead between the alt and fuse even if the alt was still spinning while the section between the battery and fuse is still live. I would think it would be better to have a 8 inch section of unprotected cable rather than an 8 foot section running across the front of the car. Getting ready to do a 3g upgrade on one of my cars so I'm trying to make sure I understand the process fully first. Thanks.
Yeah. I have multiple fuses. Your right though you want it as close to the batter as you can as everything after the batt is subject to grounding out and causing a meltdown. I have a fuse ON the battery box plus side (8-4inch of cable) in the truck AND a fuse at the alternator. If the alternator pumps out too much amps it will blow that fuse without burning the main batt fuse. When the battery is still in the engine compartment, it makes sense to fuse it at the solenoid. And.. you are right about the stator being un-engerized if the fuse link was blown for the battery, however if the car was running it would be still generating current through the stator and car would run, batt wouldnt charge ofcourse and wouldn't start when stopped.
Yep. Will need to remove the regulator. The wireing is a little different, but google it many have done it. I did it to my 1969 Torino with firewall regulator.
Does the alternator wire go on the solenoid side that the positive battery terminal connects to or the other side of the solenoid? My battery is still up from so I wasn’t sure which side of your solenoid connects to your positive terminal.
Stock power wire... I have a small black wire that’s connector to the stock power that goes into the relay... any ideas what that is and if I need it ?
Did you leave that black/orange cable connected still till today with no issues? Because people also say if the fuse pops the charge will go though the smaller cables and fry the harness?? Help thanks
When the car is running you can test your alternator output by testing the output post where your 4G cable is connected to and it should read 13-14.7 volts correct? My alternator was only reading what the battery was reading for some reason. It’s like it wasn’t putting anything out.
Yessir, 13.5-14v is about normal output. Multimeter should show this at alternator and at battery when engine is running. If its not sending out put the "activate" wire may not be on.
FYI you might wanna disconnect the battery terminals first don’t do what I did and and weld the 4 g wire to the bracket and smoke your computer and wiring harness for the love god that was a costly ooops !
I have an 86 and just did this swap. what wires do you have onto the same side as the power wire? I’m not sure which one is the old power wire so i can disconnect it
So solenoids just "bridge" both large posts. aka, when activated current passes through it. So...It doesnt matter, as long as its the same side as the battery. One side is always HOT. one side goes to the starter. You want the alternator on always hot, where it goes to the battery, so it will charge it. If you dont know get a volt meter, car and key off, one side on a ground on the car, and one of the posts will be 12+ volts.
HOUSE OF DULA ya my 85 gt has Electric fan electric feel pump MSD Ignition and The other day it started running funky and I think it’s because my alternator can’t keep up and it’s causing problems so I got the sve 130 amp kit coming hopefully it fixes it
@@HOUSEOFDULA is this what I’m looking for? It’s a 125A would you recommend 125 or 100? www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001FXGLE0/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
By converting to the 3g alternator will this help solve my issue that I have on my car which is at idle at a complete stop the voltage will go down and seem as if my car is going to turn off and as soon as I get on the gas it automatically goes back up to normal? Thanks for any info good video mike.
Do you have a lot of draw on the car? Big amp or anything? Sounds like your idle just needs set and adjusted, should not idle so low it want to die. Try this first. www.mustangspecialties.net/mustang-idle-set-up.html
HOUSE OF DULA as a matter of fact i do, but I disconnected the amp and sub and it still did the same thing. Ill mess around with the idle when I have time thanks for the info mike appreciate it!
@@lanny222 The alternator is grounded through the casing and does not need a ground cable. If its at 12.6 while running, the alternator does not seem to be charging. good luck my dude.
Robert ended up replacing the alternator with another new one and the same thing it’s kind of surging a bit my rpms... I think I need to adjust my idle and iac a bit maybe it’ll make it charge better. My idle is kind of sloppy and I don’t think the timing is on point.
@@lanny222 I have noticed on my car, even with an upgraded alternator, the voltage will drop to 13 volts at idle but pick up as soon as it raises rpm at all. I did have a dead alternator when I first did the upgrade, had to exchange it. Also make sure the power wires going to the starter solenoid are clean and making good contact.
Man, I miss these kinds of videos. I'm glad it's still out here.
Appreciate that. Being the internet, should be out here forever, hopefully ;)
Just upgraded my alternator on my '86 last night, thank you for the video. I wouldn't have been able to do do it without the cable clarification in as much detail as you showed. Thank you!
Subscribed! Between you, 50Tussin and Brew2L, I'll never get anything done!
Love me both those guys, watch em just about nightly. I also watch foxcast media, justin91lx ,FabForums, junk yard digs ;) And Im a roadkill / hot rod garage fan..So at night I too get nothing done!
Your getting closer to finishing it hard work pays off life of the foxbody
Yessir! Getting close
I have a 93 lx mustang I'm working on it was my grandfathers before he passed. Right now I'm removing the rust from underneath the car n switching from 4 cylinder to 5.0 I can't wait till I finish it
Thats great. Keep it in the family for sure
THANK YOU! Really appreciate the detailed explanation for wiring it up. Simple yes...but only if you have actually seen it done. Every other video I have checked out has skimmed over it. Beautiful Mustang. Great video.
Thanks again.
Awesome! Thank you for taking the time to let us know and reply. Glad it helped out.
The 3g alternator makes a difference. I got mine out of the junk yard from a cougar well that was me being cheap lol. But all your wiring looks on point cant wait to see the fox all finished up and running 👍👍👍
I did a 6G 130 amp alt. swap on my 83 5.0 several years ago. No bracket grinding, alt was from an 03 V6 mustang, just 1 wire with a BIG fuse.
Got any more info? What was connected? What amp fuse? I have an 83 I'm trying to upgrade
Thanks for the video, I'm new to the Mustang world! You got lots of great videos and they are fantastic!
Thank you man! Appreciate that. Should help you get all the common bolt-on and mods done to your new car. Enjoy it man!
3g pigtail duralast part is actually 224 when you go to autozone! It’s on the side of the box, thanks for your video I’m in the process right now on my fox!
The part number for the 3 pin pigtail at oreilly is s545
Nicely done man! That was definitely an upgrade I did to my 86 as well. Those 2G alternators are weak to say the least. I know I've said it before, but those terminal ends come out clean. I have to replace my battery wires and terminals, so I'll definitely be taking a page out of your book for those.
I have always modified my electrical systems in all of my cars starting with a bigger and more efficient alternator along with heavier gauge wiring for the charging and starting system as one of the first things I modify weather it has a booming stereo or not. Most guys overlook their electrical systems and wonder why their car is gutless after spending thousands of dollars and continue to throw more after it. In my 86 Capri I had a 240 amp one wire setup installed back in 96. It had a sweet system in it. It was a show car but it also went like a scared rabbit. It pays to have a good friend in a starter and alternator rebuilding shop. In my case he was the owner.lol.
Its called isolator and correct eyelet would work too great job nice car I hope mine turns out good
great video man thanks it helped me understand the 2g wiring a lot better. thanks
Always fun watching your vids bud. Keep up the killer vids and progress on your fox. Thanks again for the 5lug setup
You bet Justin. Still need to hang out, Im off all week and knocking things off the list. Yet to go is the fuel pump, MAF swap and some small odds and ends. I tested fuel pressure tonight and shes good. No leaks.
I need to figure this out for an 84 3.8L. Love your vids.
dope vid man, if your really ambitious you could tap the 3G alternator hole with the correct thread for the bolt
Good point! Thanks man!
You are correct , if you put alternator cable on starter post of solenoid you will send voltage to starter when engine is running and will burn out alternator. Before 92 the old style starter only had power cable from solenoid ! The alternator output cable always goes on the solenoid terminal which has the cable connected to the battery and the wires that power the car ! Nothing goes on the other terminal but the large starter cable.
Lots of great ideas for my 86 Turbo Coup!
I have 86 foxbody gt convertible doing the 3g swop ... thanks for the video
thanks for that wiring explination that was on point
PA-462802A. this is the correct plug you need for the 86. If you don't use this you will eventually burn out the regulator and overcharge. I have an 86 also . great video. wish it was up 10 years ago when I did my alt upgrade.
Awesome video!
Thank you sir
I know those under drive pulleys look cool ,just a word of advice .I had the same set up on a daily driver with the 3G and at night in traffic the headlights would dim down then brighten up with throttle .I run a electric fan,I use my A/C and have a amp on my stereo .I had to go back to my stock pulleys to fix the problem .
Good to know. I'm keeping the longer serpentine belt for this reason. I will eventually run an e-fan but wont have an amp or anything else high amp. Still, appreciate the advice, I'll be keeping a close eye on it.
that looks like a cold solder connection. the moment that cold wire hits the solder it hardens, it looks great. but it would be better if you put the wire in the connector, crimped it down, and heated it with the wire in it before adding the solder. it wont be as pretty, but it will allow the solder to flow into the copper wire and give a much better connection.
Appreciate the comment. I dont recall on this video. Typically I heat the wire up until the solder flows into the wire. Then heat shrink. A lot of times I will do as you mention, crimp, then heat wire / crimp until solder gets sucked in. Either way, I know there are improvements I can make when it comes to electrical!
@@HOUSEOFDULA I agree with John May when you don't heat the wire the solder will harden before it has a chance to penetrate the wire and the cold joint will corrode faster and fail it's also not taking advantage of the whole wire it makes it like your using a smaller wire but nice car you've done a wonderful job turning that car into beautiful ride keep the videos coming .
Great how to vid! You can find some info on these 2g to 3g conversions though. Now finding one to convert my 1g to 3g was impossible lol. Ended up rolling the dice and started wiring. Thankfully it did the trick, but I didn't document to help others :/
serval1 it would have been cool to document but that’s hard to do. I’m also looking for videos to convert from 1g to 3g
LMR does a video
Factory 3g cars had 175 amp fuses with the 130 amp alt. My Taurus alt pulled 170 amps under full load.
Good to know! I dont see the 150amp blowing with almost zero accessories on mine, but still, good to know I could blow it and likely replace it with a 175.
If you look it up there is a chart that shows amps per rpm my 3g came with the chart in the box and it was like 90amps at 1k and like 200amps @7 or 8k
Thanks guys, I'll bump up the fuse then to 175
HOUSE OF DULA just get a 175amp and throw it in the glove box, just in case.
you saved me a fair amount of money yo...thanks...you sure don't sound like a texan
Cool! glad to help out when I can, Im pretty cheap so I try to share what works for me...lol the texan. Yeah IDK, I guess you grow out of it, most dont have a strong slang unless your from the country. Ive grown up in the DFW area my entire life, so really a city boy I guess is why idk lol
you do a good job....congrats....you got a knack for this
So, I found on my 98 escort that the head bolts are the same fit as the primary alternator bolt. I got the car without the alt bolt, and something just felt right about it lol.
I bought dei protect a sleeve to put over my clutch cable , battery cable and or fuel lines if they end up anywhere near my long tubes I also didn’t know all heat shrink tubing was created equal either since dei uses it finish the ends of the sleeve that’s supposedly able to withstand 1800-2500 degrees of heat. I didn’t think any heatshrink tubing could handle close to that much heat.
Good Video Bro 👍👍
Thanks ✌
I have two fuse links connected here at the started solenoid what do I do with them ???
I believe one is the ecm positive and i don’t know what the other one is . Thanks for these vids by the way.
Mike, good move NOT reusing the factory 2G 10 guage power wires. They are a fire hazard. The same reason you said the original wiring is inadequate is why you do not reuse them. Current will always seek the path of least resistance and if you get a power spike that will be the smaller factory wires.. Just tape them off. The new 4 gauge wire is more than enough and will work fine. Also, the 86 car is unique in the wiring of the regulator in that the factory plug does not have a white stator wire- that is why you MUST use the new 3G plug which you can get from the junkyard, LMR or Summit. on 87-93 the factory regulator plug has the stator wire which you can just tap into and run a connecto to the new 3G alternator and reuse the stock Regulator plug. Leave the 150 amo fuse you want the fuse to be higher than the amp on the altnator. It is there to stop a spike.. Also why not just run the 4 gauge power wire on the lower radiator support and into the driver fender...that would be cleaner. YOu can also install a junction block inside the driver fende like this Carwires PDB300 - 3-Way Power Distribution Block -r run alll the power wires to it, and then you can run just one power wire from the distribution block to the starter solenoid. A lot cleaner install... Great work on doing these videos as you are helping out a lot of guys.
Im no expect. Wish I was or my vids would be a bit more educational. Good info about the 86 and now I know why It didnt have the white wire. I was midway through the video of the install and realized my white was missing! Ive used the 3G on classic fords and the white wire always tapped into a power source, output I believe. Thanks for the kudos in regards to maikng these vids. I hope other more or less learn with me. But Im no expert lol, there are guys who have built these cars their entire life and they are ones helping me out all the time....Appreciate the comment. The power block idea is also great.
i've been around mustangs for 35 years and always like to pay it forward and share what I can. Wish I was close as I would be happy to help out. i've watched this project from the beginning and its great to see that you have done all of this work by yourself, which motivates others to try and do the sa,e. You've done a heck of a lot more than most guys can do in your garage. Hope you dont mind me adding my 2 cents... not at all trying to be critical,. Can't wait to see it all come together. The car should be fun to drive and run high 11's.
MrMikestang63 thanks for sharing.
Nice Vid. I bought an 86 gt about 5 yrs. ago did not know it had a 3g Alternator till about a month ago that it gave out. So basically my question is how necessary is it to run the 4gauge cable? Since i did not see any running on mine. Thankz for the great Vids you are making.
video starts at 4:00
Thank you. I'll make this a sticky. I can talk lol
flowmaster super 44 the way to go
Running these on my Torino. Sound 100% pure american muscle. Not sure about the 86 YET, I have a free pair of magnaflows but its just the mufflers.
Same for all fords with that crappy 2g convert to 3g.
Just to make sure Im tracking... you ditched the entire Black/Orange ILO the new power cable. The bundle of wires going to my alternator includes a Green/Red wire... i have not been able to identify exactly what its for.... i think its for a dash light for the charging system. thoughts?
Nice work! Question? What about the ground wire behind the alternator does that have to be plugged up also?
Wait if you put the wire on the other post wouldn’t that run your starter when the car was running, that’s a failure waiting to happen
Your problem with fitting the 4AWg cable to the alternator stems from using the incorrect lug on the wire. the hole in the lug should fit the post securely with minimal play.
This is true. I tend to just focus on getting the job done as right as I can, I need to swap that out to a better sized terminal for sure.
What happens if you don’t hook up the stator white wire? And what is it exactly for?
I didn't disconnect my battery and cut the black/orange wires and they fell onto the body of the 3G alternator. A buzzing noise and some smoke from my starter solenoid. The car starts and runs fine but now my voltage gauge will only show 12 volts and when I check at the battery it's only charging 12 volts. No idea what I fried. Someone help!
Hello Sir, thanks foe sharing this video.. did you run into a low voltage problem after this conversion? I did a 3g conversion on my 88 fox and its a stock 4cyl 5speed. It starts no problem at all but having a low voltage problem.
Have you looked at the explorer front accessory brackets? I'm thinking about using them they kinda move everything more in front of the engine which I s gonna help for my turbo set up plus I like where they relocated the accessories
Mikel Bentley water pump is also 3/4" shorter, so is the crank pulley/harmonic balancer setup. Gotta get those to make everything line up.
Ford Taurus 3.0 carry those 3g high 130 amp and there are plenty
Jaybird022395 anything special you had to do? Or all bolted and wired up like this?
What serpentine belt length did you use??
If run the wires down the ac hose and behind the radiator to the other side idk just a thought
I don't know much about alternators specifically but I do know a lot about general electrical and just wondering if there is a good reason that you chose to put the fuse all the way over by the alt rather than near the battery? As close to the battery as possible is general best practice for a fuse so I didn't know if there were other factors involved in a circuit where you basically have a power source at both ends, although the factory fuse link is at the solenoid so I assume not but don't know for sure. From my little knowledge of how alternators work, I believe the alternator will not put out power without the stator being energized by the battery anyway so if there was a short that popped the fuse, the cable would be dead between the alt and fuse even if the alt was still spinning while the section between the battery and fuse is still live. I would think it would be better to have a 8 inch section of unprotected cable rather than an 8 foot section running across the front of the car. Getting ready to do a 3g upgrade on one of my cars so I'm trying to make sure I understand the process fully first. Thanks.
Yeah. I have multiple fuses. Your right though you want it as close to the batter as you can as everything after the batt is subject to grounding out and causing a meltdown. I have a fuse ON the battery box plus side (8-4inch of cable) in the truck AND a fuse at the alternator. If the alternator pumps out too much amps it will blow that fuse without burning the main batt fuse. When the battery is still in the engine compartment, it makes sense to fuse it at the solenoid. And.. you are right about the stator being un-engerized if the fuse link was blown for the battery, however if the car was running it would be still generating current through the stator and car would run, batt wouldnt charge ofcourse and wouldn't start when stopped.
There is a problem :O when you don't use the original black and orange stripe wire off the alternator your original voltmeter gauge will not work :(
Dula where did you connect the green and yellow wires you mean did you delete black n orge cables
Can you put one of these alternators on a 1983 carbbed fox that has an external voltage regulator ?
Yep. Will need to remove the regulator. The wireing is a little different, but google it many have done it. I did it to my 1969 Torino with firewall regulator.
Does the alternator wire go on the solenoid side that the positive battery terminal connects to or the other side of the solenoid? My battery is still up from so I wasn’t sure which side of your solenoid connects to your positive terminal.
Stock power wire... I have a small black wire that’s connector to the stock power that goes into the relay... any ideas what that is and if I need it ?
By any chanse you know where I can find a engine compartment wire diagram ??
Hey Francisco! You can search google and usually find them. What year?
Did you leave that black/orange cable connected still till today with no issues? Because people also say if the fuse pops the charge will go though the smaller cables and fry the harness?? Help thanks
When the car is running you can test your alternator output by testing the output post where your 4G cable is connected to and it should read 13-14.7 volts correct? My alternator was only reading what the battery was reading for some reason. It’s like it wasn’t putting anything out.
Yessir, 13.5-14v is about normal output. Multimeter should show this at alternator and at battery when engine is running. If its not sending out put the "activate" wire may not be on.
What did u do with the other wires that are supposed to be on the stater relay that's runs everything else
FYI you might wanna disconnect the battery terminals first don’t do what I did and and weld the 4 g wire to the bracket and smoke your computer and wiring harness for the love god that was a costly ooops !
I have an 86 and just did this swap. what wires do you have onto the same side as the power wire? I’m not sure which one is the old power wire so i can disconnect it
So which side of the solenoid does the 4GA wire go?
So solenoids just "bridge" both large posts. aka, when activated current passes through it. So...It doesnt matter, as long as its the same side as the battery. One side is always HOT. one side goes to the starter. You want the alternator on always hot, where it goes to the battery, so it will charge it. If you dont know get a volt meter, car and key off, one side on a ground on the car, and one of the posts will be 12+ volts.
Would these upgrade work on 88 gt 5.0??? Thanks
Just buy the sve 3g upgrade kit.
Naaaaaa, this is cheaper.
Where can I get the terminals and wiring you used for the battery lines
Nevermind seen it in the description other than the copper terminals
Summit don’t carry that alternator anymore.. they have 150 amp one will that be too much?
Naaa, more the better! That is the output rating it can supply...in this case more the better especially if you plan to add a lot of electronics
HOUSE OF DULA ya my 85 gt has Electric fan electric feel pump MSD Ignition and The other day it started running funky and I think it’s because my alternator can’t keep up and it’s causing problems so I got the sve 130 amp kit coming hopefully it fixes it
Did 1986 mustangs have an external voltage regulator?
No sir. I think it was the first year it was internal.
Did you ever change that fuse from 150 to something smaller like you had mentioned?
Man you know I dont recall! I need to run out there and take a look. Likely running a 100 amp now
@@HOUSEOFDULA is this what I’m looking for? It’s a 125A would you recommend 125 or 100? www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001FXGLE0/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
By converting to the 3g alternator will this help solve my issue that I have on my car which is at idle at a complete stop the voltage will go down and seem as if my car is going to turn off and as soon as I get on the gas it automatically goes back up to normal? Thanks for any info good video mike.
Do you have a lot of draw on the car? Big amp or anything? Sounds like your idle just needs set and adjusted, should not idle so low it want to die. Try this first. www.mustangspecialties.net/mustang-idle-set-up.html
HOUSE OF DULA as a matter of fact i do, but I disconnected the amp and sub and it still did the same thing. Ill mess around with the idle when I have time thanks for the info mike appreciate it!
Will my original serpentine belt work for this set up?
Possibly. Mine was slightly too long so needed one, 1 inch shorter. Try to one you have now first...before going out and buying one.
You don’t need to run a ground wire from the alternator?
I don’t seeem to be getting much voltage I have 12.6 while running bleh
@@lanny222 The alternator is grounded through the casing and does not need a ground cable. If its at 12.6 while running, the alternator does not seem to be charging. good luck my dude.
Robert ended up replacing the alternator with another new one and the same thing it’s kind of surging a bit my rpms... I think I need to adjust my idle and iac a bit maybe it’ll make it charge better. My idle is kind of sloppy and I don’t think the timing is on point.
@@lanny222 I have noticed on my car, even with an upgraded alternator, the voltage will drop to 13 volts at idle but pick up as soon as it raises rpm at all. I did have a dead alternator when I first did the upgrade, had to exchange it. Also make sure the power wires going to the starter solenoid are clean and making good contact.
on the 1986
can we request some background music for the next video? little iron maiden?
This is a great upgrade. Check out how our's went: wp.me/PaBoWV-h
Lmao i have a 84 with a different altenator
Toooooo much intro......................Jesus!
Man you need some ratchet wrenches.
I need a lot more tools! I have a set of ratchet wrenches...But im missing the 2 most used. 1/2 and 9/16
is there a 1/2 and 9/16 on these cars? ive been wearing out my metrics
What clutch cable adjuster do you have ?