@@rockapartie Erasable pens, pens with an erasor. They were all the rage when I was a kid. You have to wait till it dries before erasing it otherwise it smears, even then it tends to leave residue.
@@trevorhaddox6884 I love them, I even have a dedicated eraser :) The ink disappears when it's heated up (that's why I was confused about your comment, because these erasers don't work like "classic" ones), and the pens I have only leave a tiny bit of yellowish residue. You can get the ink to shop up again by putting the paper into the freezer xD
My rememberances of The Coleco down here in Spain come from somewhat brief but long lasting memories. My cousins had one (being Europe it was also CBS branded!), but we lived in different cities, so it was essentially like half a dozen evenings playing Zaxxon mainly. Not that infant me had much to compare with, but Zaxxon on the Coleco felt ahead of its time. That was a huge 40 years ago, but later on I have reviewed gameplay footage of it and the rose tinted glasses didn't get smashed! It actually looked pretty good, and it was great to revive such precious though half eroded memories.
It's cool to see you are still rescuing stuff from that awful scene that was your house fire. I suppose it's also a bit therapeutic for yourself. Hope you manage to salvage more or your damaged stuff 👍
Crap! Sorry! Kaiweets ES20 Screwdriver Set used in this video: kaiweets.com/en-gb/products/kaiweets-es20-screwdriver-set - 🔥USE CODE MFS15 for 15% Channel Exclusive Discount!
Even though your cart was so badly damaged, I still could recognize the ribs around the bottom of the case that showed that it was an Activision cart before you revealed the board. I suppose my dislike of their shapes, as opposed to the shapes of actual Coleco carts had bothered me ever since I was 13 back in 1982 and would keep my games in a case. I' m glad to see you restoring these, and sorry for your losses and your families' losses back then in the fire. -Bob
Instead of IPA, a good idea would be to use acetone. That would remove ABS soot. But depending on how damaged the pcb is... it might make the damage worse if it soaks in and breaks up the resin in the pcb
Ooops! Kaiweets ES20 Screwdriver Set used in this video: kaiweets.com/en-gb/products/kaiweets-es20-screwdriver-set - 🔥USE CODE MFS15 for 15% Channel Exclusive Discount!
I honestly thought you were going to dangle your dirty bits in the ultra sonic cleaner, but seeing that I just added some stuff to my next shopping list =).... also (Y) for me.
It looks like something from Pompeii. The plastic has turned back into carbon and maybe it insulated the circuit board from the worst of the heat. Amazing. Obviously, Yes to continue. You're such a tease! 😄
From guitar world, they make fret erasers. Makes life a bit easier for fret polishing, and you can get them in various grits. Might be worth looking up for those edge connectors.
Also, you can get electroplating kits that might be able to reinforce the gold layers (if you are down to bare copper, plate some nickel on first, gold will diffuse into copper). There are even so called "electroless" solutions that just rub on, but some of the formulae are so F toxic AF that just using conventional plating kits might end up being less hassle.
It must be a continue, while there are still credits left in the machine! It certainly shouldn't be a 'Game Over' or a restart; especially when you are so far into it now!👾⚡😵💫
@Mark - You could just file the inner sides of the screw posts flat so the PCB would fit in between the two. It doesn't look like it would have taken much filing down as the PCB looked like it was already just squeezing in and the square tabs would have kept the PCB in place. Not sure why you didn't at least try that option.
The pcb actually sits to too high in the cartridge as well, as in it’s nowhere near low enough for the contact fingers to insert into the cart slot on the console.
Mark Farts Stuff: ruclips.net/user/shortsrTcUrliOTzA 13:51: Easy solution to this surely, is to redesign the board into the other standard (using a certain sponsor). Then get promotion and working cartridge in one go. Plus a completely new cart recreation?
I think maybe acetone or lighter fluid is a better non abrasive option than IPA for this. Since it probably will dissolve the plastics from the shell aswell ass the soot.
Isnt it Just a matter of using a dremmel or fine grinding pen to remover some material from the sides of the screw posts? Couple of MM either side should do the trick.
Yes, continue. Like ive said before, why not complete it after what its been through. Imagine a collection with unique cases being symbolic of where youve got to after the fire?
Carb cleaner is WAY toxic and to strong for this, most all Carb cleaners will eat through plastic and rubber and even in this case the solder mask (you're not even supposed to use that stuff with new cars with a MAF, as it will eat the plastics that are used in the MAF setup i.e. hoses and sensors. Carbs tend to be made of all metal). Also Carb cleaners tend to have TCE (Trichloroethylene) which will absorb into the PCB, and if you do any solder work @ 300 degrees will let off Phosgene gas which is also extremely carcinogenic.
legend has it that the red side of the edge connector cleaning tool can remove pencil marks from paper
Nah! That's fanciful!
I hear the blue side is for erasable pens.
@@trevorhaddox6884 say what 🤨
@@rockapartie Erasable pens, pens with an erasor. They were all the rage when I was a kid. You have to wait till it dries before erasing it otherwise it smears, even then it tends to leave residue.
@@trevorhaddox6884 I love them, I even have a dedicated eraser :) The ink disappears when it's heated up (that's why I was confused about your comment, because these erasers don't work like "classic" ones), and the pens I have only leave a tiny bit of yellowish residue. You can get the ink to shop up again by putting the paper into the freezer xD
A hero restoration you’re a restoration hero, I vote yes to continue.👍
Excellent Video Mark, nice to see another damaged cart getting resurrected, I think it would be nice to see it completed and housed in a case.
My rememberances of The Coleco down here in Spain come from somewhat brief but long lasting memories. My cousins had one (being Europe it was also CBS branded!), but we lived in different cities, so it was essentially like half a dozen evenings playing Zaxxon mainly. Not that infant me had much to compare with, but Zaxxon on the Coleco felt ahead of its time. That was a huge 40 years ago, but later on I have reviewed gameplay footage of it and the rose tinted glasses didn't get smashed! It actually looked pretty good, and it was great to revive such precious though half eroded memories.
Fantastic work, and a massive Y to continue!
It's cool to see you are still rescuing stuff from that awful scene that was your house fire. I suppose it's also a bit therapeutic for yourself. Hope you manage to salvage more or your damaged stuff 👍
That metal polish is impressive.
(BTW, definate Y)
H.E.R.O. is indeed a great title from the Activision library. Congrats Mark on another ColecoVision cart resurrection!
Oui ❤
Yes! Another survivor! Congrats!!
the melted cart looks like a frog, hope the game is frogger
Congratulations on recovering another one!
By the way, how is the repair of "Pitstop" going?
Thank you. For Pitstop I am recreating an original Colecovision PCB so it's going OK but will take a bit of time to appear on the channel.
Great video Mark. What a classic to save , brilliant game
Mark do you have the 2600 add-on for the coleco?
I do! But I also have a 2600!
retro tech edging, the new RUclips phenomenon!
I thought you were talking about the cleaning of the edge connector, then I realised you meant the not quite (but very close to) happy ending. 😉
@@rosstee A triple-entendre!
@@TheDarkHour684 The best entendre!
Can't find the link for the screwdriver set ?
Crap! Sorry! Kaiweets ES20 Screwdriver Set used in this video: kaiweets.com/en-gb/products/kaiweets-es20-screwdriver-set - 🔥USE CODE MFS15 for 15% Channel Exclusive Discount!
Even though your cart was so badly damaged, I still could recognize the ribs around the bottom of the case that showed that it was an Activision cart before you revealed the board.
I suppose my dislike of their shapes, as opposed to the shapes of actual Coleco carts had bothered me ever since I was 13 back in 1982 and would keep my games in a case.
I' m glad to see you restoring these, and sorry for your losses and your families' losses back then in the fire.
-Bob
You could say that the fiberglass pencil and eraser was rubbing you the wrong way
Instead of IPA, a good idea would be to use acetone. That would remove ABS soot. But depending on how damaged the pcb is... it might make the damage worse if it soaks in and breaks up the resin in the pcb
I've fed the algorithm by inserting my co...in, and am pressing the continue button
Where is the affiliate link?
Ooops! Kaiweets ES20 Screwdriver Set used in this video: kaiweets.com/en-gb/products/kaiweets-es20-screwdriver-set - 🔥USE CODE MFS15 for 15% Channel Exclusive Discount!
I hope you responded to that Atariage Forum post afterwards!!
Not yet!
Just finish your great work in one video per game please, damnit.
No possible with this one I'm afraid.
@@MarkFixesStuff Left us all on the precipice, very naughty.
oddly satisfying video! 💪🏾💪🏾
Oh wow! Thanks for watching! I'm a big fan Gee!
continue? yes, please
I honestly thought you were going to dangle your dirty bits in the ultra sonic cleaner, but seeing that I just added some stuff to my next shopping list =).... also (Y) for me.
Next time!
I've used sugar soap to vlean fire damaged sooty contacts as isopopal is not really a cleany as it's a chemical disolver.
need to make a case for that for sure
Part 2 where you make a cartridge shell and label?
Oh, that's a classic, well worth saving. :)
Needed more marinara.
Use Tar and Glue remover, and fine scotch
It looks like something from Pompeii. The plastic has turned back into carbon and maybe it insulated the circuit board from the worst of the heat. Amazing. Obviously, Yes to continue. You're such a tease! 😄
I always have a white soft eraser to clean the corrosion from stuff like this
continue
Of course you have to finish it!!
try PCC15 cleanser for that kind of job :)
From guitar world, they make fret erasers. Makes life a bit easier for fret polishing, and you can get them in various grits. Might be worth looking up for those edge connectors.
Also, you can get electroplating kits that might be able to reinforce the gold layers (if you are down to bare copper, plate some nickel on first, gold will diffuse into copper). There are even so called "electroless" solutions that just rub on, but some of the formulae are so F toxic AF that just using conventional plating kits might end up being less hassle.
It must be a continue, while there are still credits left in the machine! It certainly shouldn't be a 'Game Over' or a restart; especially when you are so far into it now!👾⚡😵💫
Woah, hero. What a win.
No help in cooking with ultrasonic?
Not with this kind of embedded soot. By the time an ultrasonic has removed the contaminant it will have taken away the solder mask as well.
@Mark - You could just file the inner sides of the screw posts flat so the PCB would fit in between the two. It doesn't look like it would have taken much filing down as the PCB looked like it was already just squeezing in and the square tabs would have kept the PCB in place. Not sure why you didn't at least try that option.
The pcb actually sits to too high in the cartridge as well, as in it’s nowhere near low enough for the contact fingers to insert into the cart slot on the console.
yes continue ❤
Also definitely Y
Good work but ultimately unsatisfied without the finished result 😔
Mark Farts Stuff: ruclips.net/user/shortsrTcUrliOTzA
13:51: Easy solution to this surely, is to redesign the board into the other standard (using a certain sponsor). Then get promotion and working cartridge in one go. Plus a completely new cart recreation?
You have a lot of patience. I would have gone after those pads with a *very light grit* sandpaper.
@1:30 the cartridge has a shocked look on its face lol
Mark, you've saved another one!
WD-40 works quite well when removing soot. Might be worth a try on the next one.
Veo el cartucho como si fuera una cara 😱
I think maybe acetone or lighter fluid is a better non abrasive option than IPA for this. Since it probably will dissolve the plastics from the shell aswell ass the soot.
Isnt it Just a matter of using a dremmel or fine grinding pen to remover some material from the sides of the screw posts? Couple of MM either side should do the trick.
No because even if you do that the pcb sits too high inside the standard case and won’t make contact with the slot on the console.
Yes, continue. Like ive said before, why not complete it after what its been through. Imagine a collection with unique cases being symbolic of where youve got to after the fire?
yes please continue away my friend, now all you need is a case for them
5:19
That was enough 'liberally' to send that poor game to AA.🤪
A big Y
Carb cleaner might work great on that sooty mess.
Carb cleaner is WAY toxic and to strong for this, most all Carb cleaners will eat through plastic and rubber and even in this case the solder mask (you're not even supposed to use that stuff with new cars with a MAF, as it will eat the plastics that are used in the MAF setup i.e. hoses and sensors. Carbs tend to be made of all metal). Also Carb cleaners tend to have TCE (Trichloroethylene) which will absorb into the PCB, and if you do any solder work @ 300 degrees will let off Phosgene gas which is also extremely carcinogenic.
That Colecovision cartridge is giving me Evil Dead vibes lol. Cheers MFS.
Loving these 'f u' to the fire videos!
I vote to Y :)
It looks like the Necronomicon Ex-Mortis from evil of dead, thought it was going to bite in your hand. 😂
Why not try Acetone? It's IPA on steroids.
Awh... my H.E.R.O. ❤❤
I vote yes❤
Y👍
Y!
Y
defo Y
Give up OR buy yourself a little 3d printer and make your own cases.
Y
Y