How to replace the timing belt, water pump & rollers on the Volvo 850, S70, V70, etc. Pt 1-2 - VOTD
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- Timing belt service: 3 to 7 hours ($250 / $600 / $1,200)
Timing belt, tensioner, and rollers replacement: 3 to 5 hours, with water pump 4 to 7 hours. Vehicles with hydraulic tensioner.
NOTE: New water pumps have a thinner casting than the old pumps. You should get new water pump bolts if replacing an original water pump.
This is part 1 of 2 of my Volvo S70, 850, V70 timing belt replacement video. I have replaced several timing belts on these cars and have not had any problems to date.
Part 2 of 2: • How to replace the tim...
How to check for warn parts: • Timing belt change, wh...
What parts do I usually purchase: • My take on timing belt...
Serpentine belt tool can be purchased here: robertspinner.c...
Torque values:
- Tensioner Roller, 30 Ft Lbs.
- Idler Roller, 18 Ft Lbs.
- Hydraulic Tensioner, 18 Ft Lbs.
- Water Pump, 15 Ft Lbs.
How to replace the timing belt on vehicles built 1999 and newer: • How to replace timing ...
-------------------------------------------------
Disclaimer: • In this video I share ...
Basic car care RUclips channel: / rspiwin
How to search my videos: • How to find videos on ...
Visit my Website for special tools, my wish list and other helpful information: www.RobertDIY.com
Support Robert, become a Patron: / robertdiyafterdark
I have to say, 100% honest and accurate information provided here. As a Volvo tech of 20+ years, I can say this guy is VERY credible.
I can also tell you all... the stock 8xx and S series jacks are junk and prone to failure. ALWAYS use jack stands. NEVER rely on just the jack.
kevin james The tentioner bolt: I always pressure wash the front of the motor and let it dry. Then use a QUALITY T45 dipped in 90 weight, and cover it, and the bolt with JB weld and let it set for 20 min. NO chance of stripping. Works like a charm. (I have had a couple break though).
kevin james
Thank you for the support and for watching. :)
kevin james
I agree 100%. I had one blow out one me just after pulling a jack stand. I'm so glad the tire was on.
I am doing my first timing belt now. I have the timing marks lined up perfectly at the top, but the two marks on the crankshaft are one tooth over from the mark that is supposed to be between them. I'm assuming that this is not out of time enough to greatly affect the cars performance, but not really sure. Should I just line everything up before putting the new belt on?
Hey Robert, I Just wanted to thank you for your support last night of the phone, and for what you have done for the Volvo community and its owners. Your video's and tutorials point out what other video's just don't do.
You fill in the in-between steps, that no other Internet repair video's do.
Thank You for sharing your expertise.
I actually almost gave up in my driveway on my 2000 V70 SE today, but through a lot of watching and taking notes of your video's "I actually got it done". Can't thank you enough, Ray
+John Doe you are welcome.
Awesome job sir. Looking at a S70 for my son that needs water pump. This video is very helpful as I haven't wrenched in years because I'm battling cancer. Anyway I was professional mechanic for decades before that. This will probably be first chance I get to work on a car with my son so I appreciate your thorough work with this vid. Take care. Thank you
Susan Mikos Thanks for watching. What year is the S70? - ruclips.net/video/L4g-w4OXeBw/видео.html
9 years down the road and this information is still saving folks hundreds in maintenance mechanic costs and thousands in "dang, I should have changed that thing like the manual said" costs. Thank you for being so generous with your knowledge!
you are welcome. thanks for watching.
@@RobertDIY My pleasure. I also dig the fact that you go fishing in your Volvo! Shows that you do use and drive them yourself.
Thank you! My mechanic just flagged my timing belt as an issue -- I don't drive much so I haven't hit the mileage, but the car's 22 years old. Now that I know what he's talking about and what's involved with replacement, I'm not driving that thing till it's time to go back there. Bus only for a couple of weeks.
Probably a good idea.
I have a 97 Volvo 850 GLT and have done all repairs myself since owning it....I just want to say thanks to Robert....His DIY videos have made all the difference...Without Robert's DIY videos I couldn't have done any of it...Great DIY videos so thanks again Robert ..
That is awesome! Thanks for watching.
I just bought a used S70. With your knowledge and videos I’m able to restore it. It’s really fast car for the economy. I was looking for videos to upgrade the custom wheels but nothing on them. Well I just wanted to say thank you for staying on top of this vehicle.
You are welcome
@@RobertDIY the passenger side hood latch won’t close. Any suggestions? One side shuts the others open
@@RobertDIY I got the Volvo s70 fixed and running great. All of a sudden I’m the morning a huge pile of oil by the harmonic balance. I removed the entire timing covers nothing. But oil is dripping. The crankshaft seals dry. You know what it is
I saw that tool bolt painted yellow, and instantly knew this is a man with real experience to listen to!
LOL, thanks for watching.
Hi Robert-thankyou so much for this video-it's a job that I've been putting off for months now, because the procedure is never totally clear in the the service manual. You've covered it in such a way that I'm off to the garage to get down to work!Kind regards, Stef, Amsterdam NL
iksnizdaso Good deal. Not a task to be put off for long. ;)
My 00 GLT SE didn't have any way to line the cam gears up using the timing cover. The cam gears line up with (what I'm assuming) some permanent marker lines someone from the factory drew on the block, gears end up both pointing straight up. There is no hydraulic tensioner. I was really weirded out to see it like that, but I was able to get it done with the help of your videos. You're a gem to Volvo owners everywhere. Thank you so much!
Sounds like you used the wrong video.
ruclips.net/video/YpOYTVpzzic/видео.html
Robert DIY Looks like it. I have a P80 but it does have the RN engine. Thanks for the clarification.
My Volvo hero here! I now buy those 850's systematically, all thanks to this good man.
Glad I could help!
Excellent video by a knowledgeable technician. Very clear explanation which helped me make a purchase decision on an older Volvo. Thank you !
avion195 You are welcome. Thanks for watching.
Thank you so much for this great tutorial Robert. Just changed all the timing components in my 1998 S70 with ease thanks to your videos.
Glad it helped
Hi Robert. First of all, awesome trip you took to help out folks! I still have several videos to watch of your trip. I just took 2 days to replace my timing belt, tensioner, tensioner pulley, idler pulley and water pump. My 95 850 wagon has 186K now. I also replaced the fuel filter and cabin air filter. So it's running really well. Thanks for all your help with the timing belt videos! It went smoother than I expected. My best to you and your wife.
Ricky P. Thank you Rick, glad the videos helped.
As a first timer mk1 v70 owner, you sir are an lifesaver!
Thanks for watching
A very important point on the T45 socket. That bit has a very shallow fit into the bolt. Take your time. Many of these how-to videos skip over the finesse sometimes required to pull a bolt or slip a belt on. Robert has a way of making note of these areas where experience and finesse is often glossed over. Well done!
Thanks for watching
Thanks for your time posting this! I just picked up a mint 04 XC70 for my 16 year old daughter for $800.. with 207k miles who knows when the belt was last changed but that's the first thing on the list. Runs great but I figure with some easy service she will see another 50k miles.
+Guy Madison Good deal.
+Robert DIY i has a timing belt replaced with cam seals and crank seal what i want to ask is it was done by a shop and my car is running hot i paid 270.00 for the timing belt and everything water pump ect. some one told me it would be the water pump but i know my heater core is leaking would that be why it is running hot? or wiuld it be the water pump?
+Jennifer Quinn my car is c70 con. 2000 2.4 engine
For anyone doing this job. I recently did it using this diy and everything went well. I will say the belt certainly takes some manipulation around the back of the crank balancer. It wasted the first belt because I thought the bottom was fully seated and therefore the belt appeared to short… it simply wasn’t fully seated at the bottom of the crank.
Thanks for sharing.
No matter where I am in life, I know Robert DIY got my back.
😜
Thanks. Several people told me that the tool count helps a lot so I do my best to remember to post it. I actually film the tools at the end of the job so I don't miss any.
Thanks for this video, I've driven Volvo cars for about 25 yrs but mostley single cams i.e. 140, 240,740,940 so this flick saved me a lot of hours, even with the Haynes manual it's helpful to see it 'for real'. Great job and cudos to you.
thomas nilsson Thanks for watching.
Great Video my guy! Just picked up an S70 T5 and the Timing Belt is NUMBER ONE priority. Genuinely hate they went with a belt on this car. Last one I had went to 270k on the original belt, but i;m not willing to gamble that again. Searched for this car for years, and I've finally got her. Doing it right this time.
ruclips.net/video/-2oIeIhpV44/видео.html
THE best video on the crank marks! Although my 1994 is slightly different, I have a single tiny notch at the back of the trough of the correct alignment on the crank.
What's interesting is that I did this yesterday and my marks on the pulley were off compared with yours when you said it seems to align with the belt. I'm sure that's indeed a secondary check.
It was double checking this that assured me that I only had the single notch on the crank tooth, so much so that I shifted the timing by one tooth as the timing was previously incorrect by that one tooth.
Having done this and fixed the variable intake (had the manifold off to do the PCV) and noticed this VVIS mechanism which was seized and I didn't even know existed!), the car is utterly transformed.
I can admit to being the person who changed the cam belt the previous time but I just set it up as it was before that and that was done by a garage.
At 300,000 miles, I had just put the power loss down to old age, so happy right now. It seems that I've been driving around for about half it's 25 years life with mistimed cams, certainly the last two belts and the previous one has been on for over six years.
Thanks again for the videos Robert, always with super detail and to the point.
Wow! Glad you figured that stuff out.
Thanks for the info. I did notice that some cars do not have them.
You are welcome. Glad you found them.
I'm thinking about buying a 1998 V70. Your videos will help me a lot. Thanks for sharing.
Richard Wasserman ruclips.net/video/L4g-w4OXeBw/видео.html
Robert DIY Thanks. You are a Volvo g0d. I've owned four 240s and one 140. They were all purchased as high mileage vehicles. The only work I've paid to have done was rebuilding an automatic transmission which I pulled and reinstalled myself. the V70 I'm looking at is only $800.
Richard Wasserman ruclips.net/video/lRl8A_HIgeo/видео.html
Hi Robert,
Well today I replaced my serpentine belt (it was split down the middle, between two grooves), the tensioner and it's pulley, and the idler pulley (screwed into I think the power steering bracket). Spend about 45 minutes looking for the bottom bolt from the tensioner bracket that dropped into the engine bay, but found it. All in all, went better than I expected. There is a cap on the separate idler pulley that needed to be pried off to get to the 12mm bolt holding it on. I so appreciate your videos. Rick. Happy Holidays!
p.s. Tomorrow I will try to install the trailer hitch wiring. I got a hitch and installed it too.
Ricky P. Nice and cool about the hitch.
Counter clockwise is the way. As explained, you can pull the bolt out of the roller and replace the roller that way.
Hey Robert I recently bought a v70 for a winter car and your videos have been my go to resource for how to fix it up and make it road ready. Keep up the awesome work!
Glad to help
ruclips.net/video/-2oIeIhpV44/видео.html
Robertthank you so much bruh😭😭 keep on making these volvo vids for us pleasee
Ok
You are welcome. Thanks for watching.
don't use RTV any where near the water pump(maybe the bolt tops but I seem to have no issues) ..it will make them leak ive seen...USE bearing grease light coat to hold the paper gasket to the block then put the pump on dry ...works like a charm. Just did mine 5/19/2019
Cool, I never put anything on mine.
Just a quick thank you Robert, this video and part 2 completely helped me to do a successful timing belt change, again top job Sir and thank you!!
You are welcome.
Thank you and thanks for watching.
I did it your way on a 4 pillar lift. this means limited acces from below but better from up top as i can raise the car after my will. As i see it removing the crank sprocket is much easier than fiddling about with the cambelt trying to get it past the protruding parts. Removing the waterpump is also much easer. So if i was to do this again in 180000 km, or ten years i would remove the pulley for sure. because it was extremely fiddly to get stuff back into place, with a 4 pillar lift. After 450000 km the pump was not leakning but still toast... it would not have run for long. the belt itself over ten years, and full of cranks.
Awesome! Most people do not have a lift or the tool to remove the crank/harmonic balancer.
Best video of this job I have seen thus far
Thanks for watching.
Those dimples on the crank pulley/harmonic balancer are balancing holes drilled in by the factory when the whole crank was balanced at the factory and will be in unique positions on different cars, however you could write down where they end up as a rough reference.
Thank you. Another very good video. Very informative.
Thanks for watching.
I just changed my timing belt on my Volvo S70 and your video was really great for this job. All the best/Johan
Good deal, glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
Fantastic work as always, much appreciated on these videos!
I switched to a Craftsman, bent handle thin profile ratchet, it fits with nice clearance.
Hi Robert. Just a very big thank to you :) You saved my day and my hydraulic tensoner !
Cool, thanks for watching.
one thing is it started right up one day. the very next day is when it wouldn't start. it had rained pretty good on that day
never had any problems before now.
+Gerald Hart a car needs 5 things to run. You need to find out what is missing.
A 1/2 ratchet is too small, I tried it today. I hear that a 3/4" is too big, but I have not confirmed this. The way I went about doing it was taping pennies to my 1/2" breaker bar. Worked very well, I was surprised.
If you strip the tension roller with the T45 how do you get the belt on
An adapter will not fit you have to use the bit assembly that I used. There is a slight chance that your front motor mount is torn and your motor has shifter a little forward (to the right).
Thank you for making these videos. Helps alot!
+noboody2088 Thanks for watching.
You do excellent work. Ive come to your videos many times.
Thanks for watching.
You are welcome.
Yes that is the one. It should be the same for all of the 850's and early '98 S/V70's.
You said the timing on the cams is off. You need to check compression. A home method of doing this is to pull all of the spark plugs except 1. Then crank the car over by hand and see if it gives any resistance. If you can turn it over twice without any resistance you have a bad cylinder (no compression). Pull that plug and install the next one. After you check all 5 one at a time you will know which cylinders are bad. If you have compression check check for another issue.
Hi Robert I was wondering if you have a video showing how to replace the camshaft and crankshaft seals on this vehicle? I also have a question regarding my 1997 Volvo 850 T5 car, it seems to have a problem when I drive it and after it is really warmed up it begins vibrating especially if I'm at a stop light and the car wants to shut off. It has turned off and not wanting to start. What could be the cause of this? Thanks a lot for your time and great videos.
the volvo man! love your videos, sir, you're really good!
Glad you like them!
@@RobertDIY yes sir, thanks again! I just did my timing belt on my 2000 v70 xc, n now my b cam is over advanced, probably because I didn't turn past the marks and backpedal to perfect alignment, to remove the slack from the vvt. So after I lived them up, it moved slightly when I installed it apparently? But idk.. lol the car still runs decent, but I gotta go work on it on Tuesday again to get it perfect!
Are you saying that you can repeat this process over and over again? Dry out the chambers and start it again? How long does it actually run? If it is flooding, you have an injector problem. Are the injectors sticking open? Do you have any engine codes? Are all of the relays at the fan connected? Does it start easy? I would start with reading the codes. What year car is it?
Very good descriptive video. Thank you for posting such a detailed video
You are welcome
Yes, there are a lot of cars that will be similar. Especially if they are DOHC motors. Design runs the same in many cars, just different on the crap you have to pull to get to the guts.
you´re the man Robert
Thanks for watching
Very good, professional, informative video. Thank you.
Danie Foflyge You are welcome. - www.gofundme.com/n49rw0
ever think about inserting a ratchet into the tensioner instead of that cube I have the same car that's what I use. thanks for posting video tho.
I live by capitalheights md. Ballard auto shop on central ave. is my last resort. tried to find fair help where I can. someone who cares about the work not just money.I know some about this its hard on your own. thanks G.H.
Thanks. 5 year when i last time change timing belt, yes i know, 1 years too much, and now i need a little bit fresh my memory.
Miles not time. My limit is 10 years.
Thank you Robert, the timing belt and pu,p were done, cost was close to $1000 including replacing the seals around the crankshaft. They also did oil change and antifreeze. Now the radiator warning light comes on even though the reservoir is filled. The warning light goes out after it is fully warmed up. Why is that?
John Tao Maybe the float is stuck. Take it back and have them check it out.
Thank you Robert!Nice that I can learn from you.Hallo,from a cold Sweden!
Thanks for watching.
Hey Robert!Is there som video,when you put the timingbelt back.It's' looks so difficult.!? from Hasse in Sweden!
Not to bad.
I need a mechanic like you in my neck of the woods to run through my car and just replace those things before they go.
Hmmm, try to find a decent mechanic to change the oil and tell you what else needs to be done.
@@RobertDIY Trust me that's easier said than done. The mechanic we had that strictly dealt with foreign cars was switching parts out that were not part of the repairs. So other than the dealership it is really hard trying to find an honest mechanic that actually know what they are doing and or that don't steal your good parts and replace them with old parts which guarantees that you most likely will have to have your vehicle back in their shop to service what they have stolen.
Ouch
@@RobertDIY Exactly!
...the nut on the new roller. My guess is that I could only get it torqued to about 10 to 15 ft lbs. I then put something on the treads, hoping and praying that the nut does not come off the bolt. Maybe you should/could put some lock-tite on it.
One guy told me that he got it off by putting vice grips on the washer around the T-45. Try that first.
I suggest you inspect the roller first. If the roller is good, leave it. I'll send you my timing belt information video that shows you how to check the rollers. If it is tight, leave it, especially if it was changed LAST TIME the belt was done.
This has happened to me twice. Both times I replaced the roller and left the bracket on. The roller has a bolt in it. You can pull the bolt and the screw will stay. Then install the new roller on the old bracket. The problem with this is tightening...
After it does NOT start with the relay unplugged, plug it back in to see if things start working right again. Hopefully you did NOT pinch a wire under the intake manifold or somewhere causing the injectors to open full time.
If you can't find the problem there, post the problem on Matthews Volvo site and/or Volvo Forums.
So it is getting to much gas for some reason. Is the temp sensor plugged in good? It is located under the thermostat. Before you start the car, turn the key on and see what temperature reading you are getting. Does it run smooth? Also, double check the intake manifold, make sure it is on right and nothing is pinched under it.
Unplug the fuel injector relay at the fan scrod. See if the car starts then. It should NOT. For some reason, I think all of your injectors are full open.
I never replace seals that are not leaking unless I have the shaft part out. The crank seals never leak unless you have a clogged PCV system and the same for the cam shaft seals. I have a write-up on the cam seals, I'll PM the link to you.
As for the car stalling, what codes does it have?
Thanks Robert you really helped me out today
You are welcome
Interesting that this volvo is set up very similar to my lexus some stuff even looks the same, heck aisin has parts on my engine too!
I don't understand the question. If you are referring to the belt that was removed, it likely had less than 80,000 miles on it and was less than 8 years old.
hi there i recently had bent valves in motor and i took the head in and got it rebuilt now when i put everything back together the car starts for about a min or so and shuts off and will not start after i have to take out spark plugs to let excess gas to dry out what could this be ?
Nice job Robert! I like the review of tools needed nice touch.
You will need to pull the head and change the bent valves. There is a chance, about 10% that a valve cut into a piston. You can get the valves and replace them yourself. You're likely looking at spending about $500 on that job if you do it yourself. If you send it to the shop, at about $250 to that.
Tanks for an excellent video! Its nice to see a such clean car(volvo s70) underneathe. Here in Sweden we have a lots of problem with rust☹. My s70 is unfortunately not that nice looking. We have a bad climate and lots of salty roads in the winter...
Ouch! Thanks for watching.
Hey Robert, I'm having issues with my tensioner on my 02' S40. I do not know the proper procedure of setting the tension, and when I do set tension and go for a drive the indicator bounces around and makes noise when lowering RPM. Any info helps
Thank You
ruclips.net/video/YpOYTVpzzic/видео.html
hi I have 850 1997 volvo. cranks won't start. have changed coil pack distriber& cleaned spark plugs, it does have spark,one person says my timing might be off.would a analyzer help me as far as codes are concerned. iam having a time with this problem. could it be a timing belt problem? it might turn over once but won't stay running!!!!!!!
+Gerald Hart ruclips.net/video/YiPAPu-K8OI/видео.html
Just a side question. My 98 v70r has a very high pitched squeak when I do a tight turn to the left, but not when i turn to the left. Do you have any idea as to what could be causing this?
Left, left? Nope. 🤦🏾♂️
Just looked at the video and the sticker says 3/05 @ 96,500. It was changed 4/13 @ 169,600 according to the odo. So, this belt was 8 years old and had 73,000 miles on it.
Good deal.
Do you Know what kind of timing belt i need on a 850 144ps 1995 model 2 types139 or 144 teeth?
I do not. A dealer should be able to tell you. Mine uses the 144 I think. Purchase both and return the 1 you don't need.
It doesn't have one of those hydraulic tensioner that you put the pin in. It has one sprocket the belt goes around what should I do? I appreciate your help.
+Jennifer Ann look at the comments in part 2, it has a link to the mechanical tensioner instructions.
NO. Most cars require the crank "harmonic balancer" removal but these cars DO NOT. The only time I would remove the balancer is if I had a leaking crank seal which I have never seen one of these leak in the front.
I removed my cam gear on a 2002 volvo v70 to replace the can seals and my marks was erase on the gears in the process. How can I rest the timing at this point?
I'm not 100% sure about your year model but here is what is done on the earlier motors. If you have the CVVT it will have to be reloaded. I have never done that so you may want to Google it. If all else fails, take it to a shop to have the timing set and CVVT loaded. Timing Demonstration with Head removed, Cam cover installation. - Auto information Series
+Robert DIY, As far as the V70 series, it's worth noting that this timing procedure is different for the second generation V70's; I.E. after M.Y. 2000 - Prior to this, there was also a change in exactly how the serpentine belt was routed. I believe this was so the alternator was turning adequately.
So you need to choose the proper video?
ruclips.net/video/YpOYTVpzzic/видео.html
P2 Volvo
ruclips.net/video/gt9w-ZSxs9I/видео.html
Robert DIY, Please modify your title to reflect which years this procedure covers. Yes, the earlier 850, S70 & V70 were pretty much all the same. However, the timing procedure for late model V70's changed, due to the tensioner.
If you tried to start it with the timing "OFF" don't waste your time taking it to a shop unless you are ready to pay in excess of $2,000 to get the head replaced/repaired. Did you use my video to put things back together before you tried to start it?
So would this information be applicable to a 2000 S70, as it has VVT? I see you have a video for post-'98 cars but the example cars are 2.5l instead of a 2.4l that my car has.
ruclips.net/video/YpOYTVpzzic/видео.html
Yes, my 1/2 inch ratchet has to much slack in that hole.
Changing the timing belt and everything else on an early 94 850. There don't seem to be any timing marks on the cam sprockets. I think I found the crank mark, but I've turned the engine over at least 1440 degrees now and I cant see any marks on the cam sprocket. On all the other P80s I've done, there have been clearly stamped lines to line up. Even on the crank pulley. Not so with this one. Not sure what to do.
if the vehicle is running, align the crank and make your own marks on the cams.
@@RobertDIY unfortunately, vehicle wasn't running when I picked it up. I guess it's what I'm going to have to do though.
I only have one mark in the gear behind the crank pulley???? I'm working on a 1993 850 glt
ok
You are the best thank you sir
you are welcome.
Hey Ribert I've been working on my timing belt replacement for the last two days and have run into a snag. Whenever I got every thing aligned and released the tension on the hydraulic tensioner and removed the belt now the exhaust can is off by 3 notches. How do I set it back in place? Help will be greatly appreciated. If anyone else can answer this question that would wonderful. Help please!!!
Dre_2003 Simply turn it back. Part 2 of this series explains that my exhaust cam moves almost every time.
Thanks man that help a ton
Hi Robert. Did you ever had any whining noise from the timing belt after change? I had timing belt, tensioner, tensioner roller, idler pulley and Walter pump chenged in my 95 850 turbo and there is a whine at about 1500 rpm. Some people on the forums say that it is the timing belt too tight. The tensioner is automatic so how can the belt be too tight? Wrong parts? Thanks.
I seen that post and no I have never had an issue like that. I have posted several videos of post timing belt changes and have never heard noises. The only thing I think you can do is to purchase another set of rollers and have the mechanic change the 2 rollers and see if that helps. I can't imagine then charging to much for that, you can change both rollers in 1 hour. If it helps, require a refund on the parts you took off. You can have them change 1 at a time to see which one was bad.
Hi Robert, I took another look under the hood, and there's no water leaking from the firewall coupling. I now think its my water pump....waters just leaking out near/side of my left front wheel. My question is would I need to replace the timing belt as well, or could I get away with just replacing the water pump? It's also making a sound when I start it up?
Where are you located? The timing belt and water pump is near the right front wheel. Is it the same side of the car as the timing belt cover?
Robert I mentioned that I was going to pull the head off my 98 Volvo tturbo V70R wagon. I did a compression check and the head checks out good. My problem is that there's oil mixed with water in the water tank. None of this in the motor or trans.Could it be a problem with the turbo?
el wrencho Bad radiator.
Your the best thank you so very much
You're welcome!
Thank you. That was helpful
You're welcome!
Robert, I have decided to go and replace the timing belt and water pump but the garage didn't know which kit to get. He says there are two different ones from Gates one that is $560 and cheaper one $265, depending on the engine model. Are there two engine types for the '94 850? The Gates parts are TCKWP252A and the cheaper one is TCK252.
John Tao I don't think there are different timing belts on the '94 car. Order your parts from FCP or iPd depending on which side of the country you are located on. Also, I usually just order the parts I need, i.e., the belt, water pump, idler roller and tensioner roller. Cost is usually about $178. The hydraulic tensioner is usually good. I normally have one of those on hand that I pulled from a junk yard car, which cost me $20, they are $95 new so that would bring your total to $273. So you can have that on hand and if not needed, return it for a refund.
My father said thank you. Do I take the plastic cover off the bottom to get to the water pump?
+Jennifer Ann no.