I believed this LIE about FLUOROCARBON For Years
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 9 фев 2025
- PLINE BOGO Deal - rebrand.ly/yai...
MY FISHING APPAREL COMPANY:
Sun Shirts - finnfishing.co...
Bass Hats - finnfishing.co...
Fishing Gloves - finnfishing.co...
T-Shirts - finnfishing.co...
SUPPORT MY PARTNERS:
OMNIA TACKLE - rebrand.ly/Omn...
CLEMONS BOATS - (419) 357-7042 (Tell Them BassFishingHQ Sent You!)
BOAT THINGS - (614) 895-2628 (Tell Them BassFishingHQ Sent You!)
MILLERTECH LITHIUM BATTERIES
Trolling Motor Battery - rebrand.ly/Tro...
Cranking/Electronics Battery - rebrand.ly/Cra...
HUMMINBIRD - rebrand.ly/Hum...
MINN KOTA- rebrand.ly/Min...
PREMIUM PRO APP - rebrand.ly/Omn...
ARK RODS - rebrand.ly/674...
WATERLANDCO - rebrand.ly/Pol...
INSTAGRAM - Ty_Berger
DISCLAIMER: Links included in this description might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting my channel so I can continue to provide you with free content each week!
PLINE BOGO Deal - rebrand.ly/yaif8ms
I am on the link to their site and don’t see any BOGO offers…….
TACTICAL fluorocarbon?????? 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Im pretty much there, i also dont buy into less visiable i dropped many brands and sizes compared to mono in a pool and glass water....but im in Az sun almost shines 340 days year. Floro here gives off a shine
I've been using braid to fluoro leader for years and don't ever regret it. Heavy fishing, ultralight finesse, it works.
I agree! I use braid to leader (I sometimes use mono leaders) for pretty much everything. I have not noticed a drop in bites when I compare it to straight fluorocarbon. Braid to a leader is what works best for me.
I've given up on Flouro personally. Too many break offs in situations where it just shouldn't happen. Mono and braid work for me!
Seaguar was miserable for that. Any time id backlash I'd fix it but it would break further up in the spool. Cheaper almost seems to be better
I personally use McCoy copolymer. Great stuff.
I have done the same. After fluro stretches on a big fish, once it's much much weaker than it used to be, but mono stays the same. Also, mono is a lot cheaper. There is really no need for anyone to use fluro (in my opinion)
Cheap Flouro is the devil. You have to spend a little to get the full benefits. Sunline is by far the best money can buy. Shooter and or Sniper is the only way to go. Yes it’s more but you can’t beat it. P-Line Tactical is pretty solid as well.
I avoid Seaguar invisix like the plague. It’s basically expensive mono.
A lot of companies mislead buyers with pound test rating because they lable a lower pound test on a larger diameter line.
I've tried 6 different brands of flour and, truthfully, the issues and price point doesn't justify the average angler investing in it. My opinion, based on my years of experience and my budget. XT and Big Game handles most applications with braid handling the rest.
Big game now has a fluorocarbon line out as well
I consider myself an average angler and I just spent $1000 dollars on a new sonar set I'm going to use out of a $5 rental jon boat so I'm not worried about the cost line; I'm pretty sure I will also get FFS in the future, the main motivation for the purchase was to get a compatible head unit. I can afford it and realized I can catch a lot more (and bigger) fish using a sonar at a public area that has several small (10-40 acre) lakes that don't allow private boats. Most of the boaters still fish shallow; kayaks were recently allowed as well but most of them are also fishing shallow or are there just to paddle around so the fish are usually much easier to catch when you get away from the bank. I'm not one who is going to enjoy fishing without the catching so for me it is money well spent. My main problem with fluorocarbon is how easy it is to wreck, one errant cast and the backlash can be so bad you should just start stripping the reel right away.
Are the different brands of flour for dry-dusting the fish prior to frying?
I agree, I'm retired and watch my income and have good luck out of Big Game and XT also. I'm on the water just a few days a month so I won't spend big bucks to pad someone's pocket.
I happen to use ANDE Back Country Blue monofilament, which is purchased in bulk spools. I like the lack of memory on the spool. Never cared for braid and fluro. Especially fluro, it would break and it was to stiff for me. ANDE mono is priced right in bulk 1/4, 1/2, spools.
I too like the BackCountry Ande. I do not like flouros, especially on spinning and spin-cast reels. Also, not even on my bait-casters, I don't like stiff flouro or co-poly as I find it can over-run badly or easily, and I've snapped-off on fish & snags which rarely happened before using flouro's. I really prefer the more supple/less-memory mono's. I do like braided/fused multi-filament lines, sometimes using a mono leader of clear co-poly or flourocarbon, but not always. It's water-dependent. One of my fav mono's is Maxima Ultragreen, a co-poly blend which works well on all reels, with good color, sensitivity, limpness, strength & abrasion resistance. Another is D.A.M Sensoflex & Tectan, which are ultra-thin supple mono co-poly's, but as German lines, they adhere to Euro-standards which are pretty exacting re: break-strength, as is Ande Tournament. A very strong mono that I use a lot of is TripleFish perlon, a co-poly mono in Camo. I use 6, 8 & 12# on bait-cast, spin-cast & spinning reels, The 15#, 20 & 30# on saltwater casting/trolling reels. In the USA, due to lawsuits, it's now "TrickFish". And when they were not fighting each other, manufacturer/patent-holder-vs-distributor, they had a fabulous flourescent multi-color, plus clear, green & camo lines of perlon that I really liked & still do as I bought 1# spools, of camo & flourescent, and a line called X-Rated, which I tried on one spinning reel, then bought 1/4# spools in many tests for my spinning gear...Again, super-thin, supple, strong, great line (German-made, again,. like Ande & Maxima.), but again, should have bought 5# spools. One of my most fav monos of them all is Silver Thread 'Excalibre' which I fortunately bought in 1# spools, unfortunately not in 5# spools as it's no longer avail. It was everything...Just right, spinning, spin-casting, bait-casting, and seashore casting, light work or heavy, it hit my fav of fav's. I also like Gamma in flourescent orange for float-fishing big rivers on my bait-feed spinning reels, supple, strong, very manageable line, nice to cast in 15# & 25#, all reels. I use 'BackCountry in 8# on my most used 1500-size spinning reel.
The best part about this video: All of the variations of how flourocarbon can be spelled in the comments. Lol.
Instant classic!
Americans will never get how to spell FLUOROcarbon rigth!
hahahaha
Floor-o-carb-in!
FC
Heard a rumor that mono stretches more when it’s wet. Growing up, all I used was mono. Lost countless fish in the salt on piers and around grass (on long casts) due to stretch so I tend to believe those rumors. Would love to see someone incorporate water into their tests somehow.
With that said, I’ve also fallen victim to the misconceptions around fluoro. I’m not a believer that ALL stretch more than mono. But I do know that fluoro will burn out and become prone to break offs much faster than mono. And at it’s price point, I’ll take a copolymer or a coated fluoro that has some quality good traits at a better price vs just paying for expensive fluoro because that’s what the pros do.
Check out FlatsClassTV and Salt Strong. Capt C.A. (flatsclass) Is good at explaining what applications mono works best for and what applications fluoro is best for.
Salt Strong have a TON of videos where they test them out on various things.
Personally, I used to use fluoro a lot more because of the market hype but have since gone back to mono for probably 75% of my fishing applications.
Personally, here’s the 3 main applications where I differentiate:
1) Search bait/power fishing, making long casts and covering lots of water with topwater, other plugs, spoons, swimbaits/paddletails then I’m using 20-40lbs mono (depending on likelihood of Snook).
2) Targeting structure like skipping under docks and mangroves I’m using probably 40-50lbs mono because it’s more abrasion resistant to Snook and barnacles on the pilings and mangrove roots. Also, you’re correct about the stretch difference. I like the way mono stretches a bit more than fluoro for this setting because it gives me a buffer to have my drag really tight for pulling them out of structure. I remember one recent fight I had with a slot sized Red that had run back into the mangroves and I could feel the line and leader going back and forth of the roots but I still managed to work him out of there. Last time something similar happened with fluoro leader it was usually an instant cut off. If you’ve been fishing docks and mangroves then you’re going to be cutting off and replacing you leader a lot anyway because of all the abrasion and, yes eventually it’ll stretch out completely and but you’ll probably have to replace sooner because of abrasion anyway.
3) If I’m sight casting in Mosquito Lagoon or a similar environment that’s when I use like 20-30lbs fluoro. Not because it’s “invisible” (it’s not) but because it sinks slightly faster than mono, it’s slightly more flexible than mono, and pound for pound it’s slightly thinner and has less drag. I.e. 20lbs fluoro is usually a couple mm thinner than 20lbs mono, depending on manufacturer. Also it’s slightly less stretchy than mono. All that lets me throw and work the small “finesse” type baits I’m sight casting with more effectively than mono leader.
Sorry that got longer than intended. Hopefully it makes sense
Oops, I forgot one issue with mono, and this might be the problem you ran into, is that it does have a shorter lifespan than fluoro. Both break down in sunlight and water but mono breaks down faster.
I usually replace mono leaders after every trip but can usually let fluoro leaders ride for a couple trips in a row
That line video is one of the best fishing videos ever made in my opinion. Awesome work
I am a YoZuri Hybrid guy. I am very good at getting backlashes, 100% flouro hates that. I change line as needed and my wallet hates that with 100% flouro. Even braid to leader the leader is YoZuri Hybrid. It does stretch some, but in the 10 or so years I have used it, no issues: flippin, casting or finesse. I have used the Seagar and a few other types of floro line over time and how I fish, for me, 100% flouro is a friggin nightmare that is expensive to boot.
Yes sir...using it for years. Very effective, affordable, gets the job done!
I too am a YoZuri Hybrid guy. In addition to what you said, it has pretty low line memory. (YoZuri Soft was even better but I can't seem to find it anywhere. Discontinued?) I seldom have to battle YoZuri Hyrbrd or work out loops and snarls. I haven't used pure flouro because I have not seen no need to.
That's good line I caught a monster catfish on the 12 lb no problem at all
Everything Yo-Zuri/Duel makes is a quality product. The company deserves much more respect over here in the US.
Yo/zuri and CX Premium have been my go to lines for years.
A point I would like to make, when I was a young man I saw an article in an unnamed magazine.
Tie a 5 lb bag of flour to the end of your fishing line try to pick it up off the floor?
It's amazing just how much pressure it takes. Keep your hands on the rod handle. How do you break your fishing line? Certainly lines over 10 lb is for abrasion resistance in bad knots.
TA
I like sunline sniper 7lb and a loose drag, caught a 10# Monday, and my heart rate still hasn’t gone down 😅
Congrats
Funny you say that. I was fishing yesterday with 10lb braid to 6lb sniper leader. Hooked and caught, after 15min fight and regaining 50-60 ft of drag…. a massive 18-20 striper!! my PB. He hit my 2.8 keitec on the most finesse combo I was using, thank God no brush for him to wrap on. 😂😂
Dear 'youtubers' everywhere. Stay on topic. I gave up on this one during the ramble about 'stretch'. Just the main points please. We followers have limited time.
Stretch is one of the main selling advantages of fleurocarbon...very on point to know.
Been through it all..53 years of fishing... settled on braid & Trilene XL/Big game...cheap but good
I switched to zebco omni flex mono years ago and haven't looked back. Save a ton of money and it is as tough as nails. Everyone pushed me to try flouro years ago... I broke off more fish in one week than I had my entire life using mono. There's a video somewhere on RUclips showing an abrasion comparison mono vs fluoro and mono won every time. I fish tournaments a lot and do pretty decent. My fishing partner was a diehard fluoro guy, bought the best of the best.... he now throws the cheap stuff as well. Thanks Matt Robertson for the pointer, fished the bassmaster team championship on Harrison chain him and Wendall won.
Trilene BIG GAME is AWESOME line still to this day, lol! No go Fluoro
I agree 100%! I use 10 pound trilene big game for most spinning applications unless I specifically target smaller species. I even use it for tippets on my fly gear when I chase both pacific and atlantic salmon and big rainbow trout in the great lakes. Never lets me down. 👌
I fish in Central Florida and have returned to Berkeley Trilene Big Game except for when I use braid ...
Big game and Original blue Stren for NW Salmon ,steelhead and crappie. , they can keep the braid and folurocarbon.
It takes all kinds and I’m glad everyone can choose what they like .
Good info, Tyler. Yes, as a beginning fisherman, years ago, I was never told the actual breaking strength of line is usually MORE than that number on the label. I thought 12=12, etc. but finally caught on, through reading and some simple tests, and also when the Berkley reps like Doug Stange came to my area, 40 years ago, for seminars and they brought their knot/ line testing machine.
Trilene big game . Best line for the money. Sensitive and tough .
Yup 10lb for me.
20lb big game handles salmon all day long!
Yep I've fished the big game for years and just bought some fc sniper and it gave me so much trouble I went back to the big game. I really don't think I'll go back to fluro
That’s exactly what I use and also best line for the abrasive mouths of snook
Not a good idea for super clear water….
I’d still like to see confirmation of another video I saw where they tested the RE-stretch strength of fluorocarbon. It might stretch nearly as much as mono, but mono supposedly retains a much higher percentage of its strength though multiple stretches.
Yep, I read or heard the same thing, that Mono (and Co-Polymer) lines return to the same strength/shape/integrity after stretching while fluoro does not, it is essentially damaged or weaker after it stretches -????
I can personally attest to that, my 10lb floro feels solid after a bottom hook or landing a large fish.
Have you ever tested the Florocarbon coated lines ? I have had great success with the Floroclear. Casts and handles like mono but it supposed to have the light refractive qualities. Maybe giving a little less abrasion protection.
Best bang for the money. I've caught hundreds of stripe bass since 2017 on the CA Delta with this line. 15 and 20 lb test on swimbaits.
Same like I have run for years. Tried alot of others and always back to floroclear. Knot strength and have never had a fish break off work it
Big fan of the Pline copoly . Never had issues
I check the diameter of my lines with a micrometer. It is a professional machinist micrometer, and it reads down to .0001 - inch. If you didn't write down what line you installed, it is revealed by measuring it. Also my (HarborFreight) calipers work just as well for measuring lines.
I learned that a popular manufacturer of (usually fly fishing) monofilament isn't describing the diameter of their lines with much accuracy, with at least a couple of their spools.
Which were the most accurate? ‘Tks
@@leenelson7290 Berkley
Fluoro has no contolled stretch like mono...gets weakened after every fish catch, snag, heavier lure (swimbait)...if Fluoro isn't changed very frequently, u will have random breaks at no particular spots....Pros likely change it every week, maybe even more ofte when it's free....my 30 combos, 6 are braid...24 are mono....Bass Pro Excel & Big Game is all i need & does everything needed for bass fishing...can't recall ever breaking off on a fish using mono or braid..Fluoro, broke 1 time on a hookset no where near the knot randomly...That was enough for me to stick with what works & not about the hype...
I found out it go bad to fast for me .
using flouro as a mainline is weird. best leader material around
yep, the taffy effect.
I have a Professional tensile test machine and test fishing line all the time. I can also measure fishing line stiffness, abrasion resistance and even dampened harmonic oscillations. Let me know if you want Professional fishing line test data.
What are you using? I've been fishing for years and still can't find a fluorocarbon line that checks off all of the boxes. Lot's of the high end line is a joke. I can't seem to find a line that doesn't have a ton of memory and kinking. I'm about to give mono another shot. I'd love to see what you came up with
@@steveodonnell2921 I've been liking Mason T-Line
@@steveodonnell2921 if your big issue is memory and kinking going to mono from flouro is not going to be an improvement
I use what I learned on ,zebco 202 with 6 lb line and have had lots of fun with it, bugs my son he says dad I know you can afford a better set up , my pole throws out and reels in and I catch fish and have money left over after fishing for ice cream😮
I use BERKLEY Big game all the time. Top water, crank bait. Anything with treble hooks. I use 20lb big game flipping grass edges. My most used rod I use Suffix Advance 17lb pitching in reeds and sparse grass, Carolina rig and Texas rig. The suffix stretches less than the average mono. Have braid on frog rod, heavy flipping and a spinning rod with mono leader. Never use fluorocarbon. Once it stretches if you hook a fish of equal size the next time it will break. Knot strength sucks. Learned years ago florocarbon was nothing but a money maker for the line company. Copoly is a much better and cheaper option.
My brother and close friend used Berkeley big game for Sockeye in Alaska 20lb, it was the best back then
My favourite fluorocarbon is Braid
My favorite is Sufix Advance but I also use Seaguar InvisX.
I'll have to go back & watch that testing vid. One of biggest & most common misconceptions I hear all the time is floro sinks & mono floats? They both sink! Floro is more dense & sinks a little quicker. But thinner line sinks faster than larger diameters also.
If there is this much variation between brands, I must wonder how much variation exists within each brand. Thanks for all of your good work.
From the videos/research I've watched on floro: stretch, abrasions, and knot strength are all less than mono. The sink rate is where it shows a little better performance...and supposedly the "invisible" performance...
Not true at all. Floro is much stronger than mono
@@dualthreatoutdoors LOL- watch "Saltstrong" videos. They are eye-opening.
@@dualthreatoutdoors You cM start by watching Salt Strong's test on floro vs mono:
ruclips.net/video/KiQTvmM-1cY/видео.htmlsi=sy34qOmn--BZNMcr
They have a lot of videos on it.
I like that you often introduce science to the sport with your presentations.
Tyler, please test the strongest line per line diameter size, not stated pound test.
I did that in the line test big dawg
@@TylerBergerFishing I would like to see the line test redone except all the lines are the same diameter (or as close as possible) instead of stated pound test. Some of the parameters/testing would also need to be modified; I think the lines that state lower strength compared to their actual strength would do worse.
In Europe,....and pretty much the rest of the world,...fishing line is sold by the diameter. That is what is considered important for your presentation, and it also gives you an idea about how the line will behave (drag of the line in the water). So you first look for the diameter and select the one with the highest braking strength. I mean, I could make you a 30lb test that is as thick as a tree or as thin as a hair. Even after living a couple of decades in North America, I still do it with diameter first.
Been using Berkley Trilene XL mono for years. Tried Seagur INVIZX and I still use it on a couple of rods. I really dont have a preference, but mono or fluoro are both good and are usefull under the conditions. Meaning, depending on what species, or cover, I will use accordingly. When it comes to cost, mono is still the leader. Pardon the pun.
I catch more fish on flouro than braid or mono. Especially in ponds.
After I learned how to tie a couple floro knots, have not had an issue in over 20 yrs. The knot you tie is the most important part most knots used for mono and braid will not work for floro because those knots cut into the line which is floro’s kryptonite. And the line has to be lubricated at the knot. Floro works better for me. I also only ever use Sunline. I have had problems with a couple other popular companies.
I did at home testing with knots after switching to flouro, all the pros tying the palomar and it did work really well. The double pitzen knot gave me the best results where 10lb line was breaking at 13-15 pounds and never at the knot.
@@willboswell3698 I don’t use polomar. It puts too much pressure on the line. I use a knot that I’m not sure what the name is. Learned it years ago, I think it’s called “double San Diego jam knot”. But it’s the best knot for flouro. It doesn’t cut into or put any pressure on the line and it’s very easy to tie. Don’t quote me on the name of the knot. That knot works for everything though not just flouro. There’s tutorials all over YT.
I use the "Fool's knot" for braid/mono, but triple loop for fluoro. Knot Wars put them all to the test...
@@timyogerst4349 I’m going to look up knot wars now! Never heard of it, hopefully I’ll learn a couple new knots
Gamma Edge is the best fishing line I’ve ever used. Berkeley flouro was the worst. Both flourocarbon. Line type seems to be less important than line manufacturer.
A lot of people don't realize that once fluorocarbon is stressed. It loses a significant amount of knot strength.
That’s more true with the leader material than the mainline material. That said, there is a point at which the line, if stretched to/past, will plastically deform and that section of line is now brittle. Mainline stretches farther before hitting that point than leader material.
Trilene big game has never let me done. Tough and cheap
It will
Big game all day
😂 Trilene big game covers all my fishing situations , and has done so for a long time.
Amen
Been using it for 20 years try others now and again but keep going back to big game
in socal salt water we use fluorocarbon for abrasion resistance, that's it. only about 3ft onto a top shot of mono like 200 ft. the rest is all braid. some go fluoro straight to braid.
Years ago, I made the switch to fluoro exclusively because I believed the overhype. But about 5 years ago I stopped and went back to mono for at least 75% of my fishing. The stretch, stiffness, and abrasion resistance makes it better than fluoro for fishing “search baits” or “power fishing” as well as fishing around docks, mangroves, and other structure. Especially if there’s Snook and Tarpon around.
I really only use 20-30lbs fluoro for sight fishing places like Mosquito Lagoon. Not because it’s “invisible.” That’s false market hype. I like it for the small “finesse” baits I’m sight casting with because it’s slightly thinner, more flexible, and stretches slightly less makes it easier to cast and work those subtle little baits.
The fact that monofilament line has a bit of stretch is a strength not a weakness. I have also done exhaustive tests on mono, fluoro, braid and many types of line connections and knots. I have an engineering background and applied the usual controls and rigor to the tests, the results of which find that "mono" is definitely superior to fluorocarbon. Knots tied with monofilament cinch down and form up more easily and are considerably stronger than the same knots tied in fluoro for the same lb test and/or diameter. I fish a lot and have been doing so for a very long time. These days almost everyone uses braid as a main line, as do I. Braid has zero stretch for a start and a rod length or two of nylon leader leader on your rig, mono or fluoro makes no difference to "feel".
Mono beats fluoro hands-down for strength, abrasion resistance and durability and connections to braid with knots like FG and Alberto etc. are much stronger as the braid locks itself into the mono better than with fluoro. Likewise, snug knots and loop knots tied to hooks or lures with mono don't fatigue and become weak after a few hard pulls like they do with fluoro.
The only thing left is whether Fluorocarbon is harder for fish to "see". Despite all the claims, no one has actually proved this yet. Fish actually "feel" line more than see it anyway..... The invisibility myth will likely be de-bunked eventually just as the abrasion resistance myth has been already. I think its likely that a lot of fisher folks have already done their dough on ridiculously expensive fluoro line and feel that they need to justify it by parroting the marketing hype and continuing to say its good without any any real evidence.
Stop wasting your money on fluorocarbon line. It's just another fishing industry con. Just use Diawa J-Thread or Shimano Exage and you can't go wrong. Also..... Have a look at Salt Strong - www.youtube.com/@Saltstrong and see the tests and videos they have done.
I went back to mono for a lot of situations. I’m happy with it. Been bass fishing 40 years. Tried everything out there. If I need a leader to braid I use mono. Flipping I use 17 or 20 pound mono.
If monofilament was bad, chatter captains wouldn’t use it exclusively. It’s cheap and effective.
I was out of fishing when fluorocarbon blew up. When I got back in a few years ago I bought into the hype. “Invisible underwater! How can I lose?” Imagine my disappointment when I could see it underwater lol. I’ll stick with my Big Game.
I use 15lb big game but the low-vis green. I have a theory that the colorant/dyes make the line a bit stiffer than the clear. I throw big hard swimbaits up to 4 oz on 15lb big game with absolutely 0 issues. Flouro is a frigging nightmare
Agree I don’t like flou due to knot slipping only a few knots work
As for “marked pound rating “ on the spool, Balsax Premium Fishing lines are labeled with the correct breaking strength . Manufactured in Europe. They do have a U.S. distributor.
P-Line copolymer, better than floucarbon & mono...through my experience, NO BS ....Just sayin.....
💯
Came here for this lol, CX for cranking, CXX for pulling trees out
Im running this right now and love it!
Absolutely.
The main reason for using fluro is it’s ability to refract light therefore being almost invisible under water which wasn’t mentioned
I love using it as a Leader In most my lure fishing situations it’s also very tough and has high abrasive qualities I love the stuff
👍🏼
i use mono as my leader and prob catch more fish than you (and my wallet is thicker at the end of the day)
@@WhiteGhost21 lmao
In the ocean the experienced vets use Pink Ande when it comes to leader material and live bait.
Biggest thing I learned early on is that flouro will break much easier in colder water temps, once I figured that out it has been pretty good to me. But before I figured that out I had some heart breaks on some big ones and cost me a tournament win as well. If I’m flipping or dragging in January, February or early March to mid March I just use 25 lb test where I might normally be using 20. Once the water warms up I don’t even think about it, issues for me have been extremely rare in warm water temps. I live close to Caney Lake in Louisiana and fish Toledo a lot so we have to be rigged up for big ones.
Tyler, interesting video but you skipped over the elephant in the room. YES, fluoro generally stretches as much as mono. But unlike fluoro, mono returns to it's original shape. Fluoro does not. Some refer to it as the taffy effect. Unlike mono, fluoro is much more inclined to be deformed or damaged by significant stretch.
This is completely false…..mono looks like a 90s phone chord after it stretches…
@@dualthreatoutdoors are you saying that fluoro line retains it's elasticity? I thoroughly enjoy your vids, but the research clearly shows that while mono stretches and retains it's elasticity, fluoro does not. Check out Salt Strong video(s). One is titled "Could Monofilament be Superior to Fluorocarbon Fishing Line?"
@@nickdigrino4423 I’m just saying it doesn’t have as much memory as monofilament
@@dualthreatoutdoors agree that fluoro is considerably more sensitive, but I find when comparing equal diameter line, fluoro is a bit less plyable (harder, more brittle). Especially in cold weather. Just my experience. And thanks for taking time to respond - I know you are extremely busy.
Diameter is what we should be paying attention to in fishing line vs. lb. test. Also, a leader material fluoro is going to stretch less than one that’s been made to be a main line.
Much of this stems from the understanding that very few of the fluorocarbon lines available are *pure* fluorocarbon. Working commercially with some of the earliest available from Japan in the mid-90s, much of it was pure fluoro. Knotting pure fluorocarbon is a nightmare. But it does have considerably less stretch than you've experienced with your testing. The knot difficulty issue was solved by making these fluoro lines hybrids with some other polymer. Obviously, this has the side effect of increasing stretch. (or maybe not obviously, but it does anyway)
The stretch or lack thereof isn't the real feature of fluoro though. Yeah, it's nice, but the important part of fluoro is it's ultra-low refractive index that makes it damn near blend in with the water. Water's refractive index is 1.33. In our testing, we found pure fluoro to have a refractive index of between 1.39 and 1.42. Monofilament is anywhere from 1.52 on up past 1.6.
If you're fishing spooked fish in thin, clear water, the stretch part becomes inconsequential.
My strong dislike for spooling flourocarbon mono's came from Vanish, of which I bought 6 - 1/4# spools in several tests, 6-10-12-15-20-30#. Even being extra-careful with lubed uni-knots, I've never broken-off for any reasons so many times, had so many pig-tails & coil-offs on spinning & spin-cast reels, had so many backlashes on bait-cast reels. I'll admit, my purchases & experiences are over 12 years ago, but, once-burned... Those 1/4# spools are now just leader material, and not used that often at that.
I'm a fireline fan. Their 30lb test is a great line for the big flathead catfish. I use 6lbs on my crappie rod for a long cast.
I use P -line flouro clear. It's a copolymer line coated with flourocarbon which makes it invisible to the fish. Supple and really strong. Don't have to worry about weak knots if your knot is not perfect.
Vicious Pro Elite 8#, 12# and 20# and 50# braid is all I use. I really don't have any problems with breaking off and I have extreme confidence in it. Great sensitivity and doesn't get cuts easily in rock or wood.
Try Sufix Siege - you’ll thank me later! 👍🏼
Durable as hell, less stretch than mono gets the wrap for, more abrasion resistant than flouro. Superior knots!
Pro tip: downsize your mono to the next lb test compared to your usual flouro size. The diameter of mono is larger than flouro.
20lb Flouro=17lb mono
Sufix siege is my preferred line ive been using it for years.
@@kylebarnes7775 Siege is good line. Very little memory. I casts like butter and lays on the spool great.
Also keep in mind mono can be manipulated more and have less stretch than almost all fluo
I use flouro for fly fishing and have never had much of a problem with it over mono. There is a difference between cheap line vs more expensive line, flouro or mono. I’ve caught many a 3-5 lb trout on 4-5lb flouro. One think between the 2 is flouro sinks and mono will float.
Big Game mono is a solid line! I have used it a lot for my braid to leader applications. I do not recall ever having a knot fail that wasn't MY fault.
I love my Berkley big game! My favorite line is 10/12lbs mono for jerkbaits!
Out in our neck of the woods, you want very abrasive resistant line for these tuna and yellowtail or you will be chewed off, and seaguar blue is best. Also, you don’t need a lot of stretch if you’re using a parabolic tip with glass and graphite. The only thing you need to do is spend some money on a Cal-star, or Seeker Rod, Phenix Magladon Series, there are many others but mostly are inferior. When you go to the dock to get on your boat try the rods in person by pulling on them.
I have never used flourocarbon line, I have never seen the need to buy a brittle line that does not knot well. I have always chosen lines for what i want to do with them.
Beware the advertised test vs diameter. I had some bass pro generic mono low test I was told was really strong. It certainly was. It was also of thicker diameter than almost every other brand too.
Out of the dozen or so rods that will be on the deck of my boat half will have big game mono. The other half will have various Brands and types depending on what I use those rods for. But you still can't hate on the big game
I don't have any scientific data, but floro had way too many break offs compared to mono. Based on my experience, floro would stretch, but lost a lot of strength,very quickly. Mono would stretch, but maintain much of its strength. I believe the technical term is cyclic fatigue for the floor failure. Even casting heavy baits causes stretch and floor tends to fail faster during multiple stretch cycles much faster than mono. The heavier the bait, the faster the failure in my experience. This was especially true when I was bay fishing and making 800-1000 casts per day.
I seem to remember a prior line test that showed mono started stretching immediately while fluoro didn't start stretching until closer to breaking point.
Can you run a test for stretch at 25, 50, 75% of rated strength?
I watched tests of mono to floro side-by-side. I have been fishing more mono& hybrid(floro coated mono) lines these days over floro in most situations.
I always tie my line to a tree and strech it a little after a respool! It reduces memory, helps it from streching so much and most of all it test for bad spots.
i BELIEVED you had something WORTH WATCHING in this VIDEO, but BOY was I WRONG.
Thanks for the laugh this morning.
I have an idea for you since you have the data already for break strength. How about breaking it down by the pound per diameter. Such as 22 pounds divided by 0.4mm would give a rating of 55 pounds per mm. Thinner line is less visible but we would know a relative strength per thickness.
Please do your own testing, but i have compared decent grade floro vs higher end mono. Compared in pool on bright sunny day, and water in glass test. My results, floro has a sheen or glistening effect. What do your tests show?
I do use floro and mono and copoly. Jury still out for me.
If two lines have similar diameters and one brakes at a much higher number then it is safe to say the one with the higher break strength is better, assuming they perform similar in other test.
You didn't complicate the picture for me, you simplified it!
do a test of how far fluoro stretches vs mono ive always hear that fluoro dont stretch but ive noticed it stretches alot not sure if its as much as mono
Fireline. I've been using it since it first came out. 6,10, and twenty pound test. I used 4lb for awhile but moved up to six because it's more durable.
Does flouro recover the same as mono after being stretched? If not, the next time you catch a fish, you won’t get that same stretch.
A quality flourocarbon is better after it’s stretched imo. When I spool up the first thing I do is tie the end to my hitch ball and walk away till the end. Then I stretch the shit out of it. Removes the “stretch” and removes all line memory, and I see no drop in break strength with gamma edge.
i watched to hear you discuss the hype that flurocarbon line is almost invisible underwater...
The test I would like to see is percentage of stretch while under very light weight, like a lures weight. Because I swear flouro just feels so much more sensitive than mono.
Whats yours guys thoughts on 16lb. Sunline Troll for my walleye line counters pulling cranks on Erie
I use 15lb,17lb,20lb and 25lb flouro. I had to learn what knot to use. My line or knot never breaks. Seaguar.
It also depends on the drag on the reel to tight is not good to loose not good. I always check my drag.
Great information I have a question I have heard angler's say about having your finger against the line helps you feel a bite
All of Pline's product line are amazing. It's all I use anymore
20-30 lb braid to 8-15 lb mono
Samurai braid. Maxima
Green
I have yet to snap on a 8-10 lb bass, striper haven’t even broken me off either. Daiwa Exist is a good reel that doesn’t let you down.
Fishing Line
I don't like the handling, breakage vulnerability, and high cost of fluorocarbon. Pros recommend respooling for each trip. Here's my quick cost workup to do such: 15 outfits for moving baits; 50 yds per outfit; 3 trips per week; 40 weeks per year = 90,000 yards needed Sunline FC Sniper 15 lb price for 1000yd spool is $149 at TW; 90,000 yards costs $13,410 per year Seagur InvisX 14 lb price for 1200 yd spool is $122 at TW; 90,000 yards costs $9,150 per year Sufix Adv 14 lb VIP price for 1200 yd spool is $70; 90,000 yards costs $5,250 per year
We should always compare lines by their diameter. Not breaking strength since it’s NOT the common characteristic between two lines. Just makes NO sense to do so. Still don’t understand why people don’t get that.
High quality mono and braid is my standard for both fresh and salt water normally This year I spooled three reels with braid mainline and Fluro leaders mainly because I bought into the hype and had to see for myself I'm an old dog stuck in my ways and don't have much faith in Fluro out performing my mono It seems from pros to weekenders including my two grown sons are using Fluro here on Florida's West coast but it's back to braid and mono the first fish that breaks off the Fluro
I would love to have all the manufacturers have a standard as far as diameter. It would be much easier to test and to choose.
Braid to mono or fluro coated for sink,stretch is key ive found
Hello Tyler, great video, by the way. Just a question: Did you measure the diameter of the line to determine if there is a correlation between line size and breaking strength?
I don't like to over complicate fishing either. (funny you should mention) when my line breaks it's mostly because of a snag and not a fish. If you take your sweet time.....keep a.loose drag and gently play that big fish and let it run and tire out, you're not going to break your line. I use Berkley brand just because it's still make here, Good video.
We've known it stretches for years. And it doesnt recover. Too many copolys and braid combo's for me to waste money on Floro.
But you'll see pros sell,sell, sell it
tests show flour is less abrasive resistant, stretches lots and not much different than mono,except price
Not to mention that I’ve had many spools of even higher end fluoro and I don’t believe it to be consistent always. It always feels like it’s breaking at different strengths. I think it has a shorter shelf life than mono or copoly. I think fluoro gets too brittle in the cold and breaks at a different rate. I now only use it 2# for finicky trout and panfish.
The best of both worlds is Yozuri fluoro-Mon hybrid line. AS LONG AS YOU REPLACE IT REGULARLY!!!
When new this stud is incredibly fantastic, but it will fray more quickly than mono or fluoro so you need to run your fingers along the last few feet regularly to ensure you cut and re-tie as needed.
I've tried alot of different lines, the one I keep going back to is trilene xl smooth casting. It's cheap and reliable.
Just to be accurate, if one brand of line stretches 33% and another 12% that is a difference of 21 percentage POINTS (33-12=21) ... however ii is a PERCENT difference of 64% [ (33-12)/33 x 100)].
Tyler I'm surprised you didn't cover the biggest scam with fluoro, abrasion resistance. Might be worth testing that component of various fluoro lines vs mono counterparts. I was surprised when I saw the truth.