I figured out the same method of assembly with the front idlers. Only difference is I'm using a regular steel M5 x 30 screw with the head cut off and I stick 3 6mm magnets to the side of the F695 bearing stack to hold everything together while I slip the tensioner onto the idler. One could also print a plastic dowel just the right size so that it fits in the bearings with just enough friction to prevent slipping. Might even be a good idea to include such a dowel as tool in the PIF parts list.
I can't believe somebody gave you a thumb down, it's not clear from the manual that the m3 insert goes toward the back and it certainly does not gave you the hint about using a pin for the bearing stack. That tip alone save my sanity.
For the non toothed pulleys, mine spin freely but there is slight vertical movement where the 1mm spacers are not holding the pulleys exactly in place. Is this a problem down the road?
About those bearing stacks: is it possible to just drop-in replace them with appropriately chosen toothed for the tooth side/toothless for the smooth side pulleys? They're just so much better for the belts, by using appropriate pulleys you can save money on belt wear.
The off the shelf smooth idlers have smaller bearings then the f695 stacks and tend to have a shorter lifespan, the one spot on the belt path that could benefit from a toothed idler is "specced" to have one, past couple months though i have not noticed any issues with using a smooth idler though and no belt wear either.
@@CanuckCreator The main thing I'm worried about here is the width of that lip. My crappy (yet fiberglass reinforced) belt had its teeth almost destroyed by the stock double bearing stack, because the lip is tall enough to touch the teeth but not tall enough to touch the side of the belt. Are the spec bearings bigger to prevent that, or do they only touch the smooth side? Are the spec belts the expensive Gates belts or do clones work fine with that system? Are you Nero with V2.405, BTW? Or the Ubernero with V2.026, V100 and V0.003? I have many questions science still can't answer.
Hey I had no experience at all in 3D printing and I am not really mechanically incline and I builded a Voron 2.1. 2.4 was designed with simplicity in mind. As you build, you just ask your question on Voron discord discord.com/channels/460117602945990666/461134007959289858
Does the outer diameter of the washers plays a role in correct assambling? Can i get normal M5 washers (5,3mm id, 10mm od, 1mm thickness) or is it required to have a very small outer diameter of the washers?
@@CanuckCreator alright, thanks. Then I will look for them. Do you know what's the max OD? I haven't seen any specific small washers in the bom :/ maybe I'm just blind
@@CanuckCreator on my printer even with the TMC it's still a bit noisy so I was thinking of doing what voron used to do for some extra quiet. But that complicates designs and adds more components which means more failure points, costs etc.
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Great videos and a massive help building my own Voron! Thank you for your great efforts!
I figured out the same method of assembly with the front idlers. Only difference is I'm using a regular steel M5 x 30 screw with the head cut off and I stick 3 6mm magnets to the side of the F695 bearing stack to hold everything together while I slip the tensioner onto the idler. One could also print a plastic dowel just the right size so that it fits in the bearings with just enough friction to prevent slipping. Might even be a good idea to include such a dowel as tool in the PIF parts list.
Your videos are awesome. Keep it up.
omg i was assembling voron the hard way i did it the old way
Thanks for making these vids. They are really very helpfull.
Very good video! Thanks a lot!
Thanks for sharing!
oh... using the motor to screw in the top to the bottom. that's smart. I feel so dumb now. totally gonna steal the idea xD
Can I use the same Mobilux EP2 (that's specced for the rails) on the plastic pivot points instead of Superlube? Or will EP2 react with ABS?
👏👍
I can't believe somebody gave you a thumb down, it's not clear from the manual that the m3 insert goes toward the back and it certainly does not gave you the hint about using a pin for the bearing stack. That tip alone save my sanity.
For the non toothed pulleys, mine spin freely but there is slight vertical movement where the 1mm spacers are not holding the pulleys exactly in place. Is this a problem down the road?
About those bearing stacks: is it possible to just drop-in replace them with appropriately chosen toothed for the tooth side/toothless for the smooth side pulleys? They're just so much better for the belts, by using appropriate pulleys you can save money on belt wear.
The off the shelf smooth idlers have smaller bearings then the f695 stacks and tend to have a shorter lifespan, the one spot on the belt path that could benefit from a toothed idler is "specced" to have one, past couple months though i have not noticed any issues with using a smooth idler though and no belt wear either.
@@CanuckCreator The main thing I'm worried about here is the width of that lip. My crappy (yet fiberglass reinforced) belt had its teeth almost destroyed by the stock double bearing stack, because the lip is tall enough to touch the teeth but not tall enough to touch the side of the belt. Are the spec bearings bigger to prevent that, or do they only touch the smooth side? Are the spec belts the expensive Gates belts or do clones work fine with that system?
Are you Nero with V2.405, BTW? Or the Ubernero with V2.026, V100 and V0.003? I have many questions science still can't answer.
each video lower my fear. voron soon
Hey I had no experience at all in 3D printing and I am not really mechanically incline and I builded a Voron 2.1. 2.4 was designed with simplicity in mind. As you build, you just ask your question on Voron discord discord.com/channels/460117602945990666/461134007959289858
Does the outer diameter of the washers plays a role in correct assambling?
Can i get normal M5 washers (5,3mm id, 10mm od, 1mm thickness) or is it required to have a very small outer diameter of the washers?
Yes it can cause issues as if the OD of a washer is too great it can pinch onto the outer flange of the bearing causing it to not spin freely
@@CanuckCreator alright, thanks. Then I will look for them. Do you know what's the max OD? I haven't seen any specific small washers in the bom :/ maybe I'm just blind
May I know what brand of ABS you used to print your voron parts? I am about to print it
I think he uses Esun ABS . its gotta good matte finish
@@sujayshetty2017 eSun ABS+, actually.
huh the new version doesn't decouple the motor from the belt path so you can use a dampener?
Correct, with TMC`s being specced standard now, the extra complication and price of a dampened, decoupled motor isnt really worth it.
@@CanuckCreator on my printer even with the TMC it's still a bit noisy so I was thinking of doing what voron used to do for some extra quiet. But that complicates designs and adds more components which means more failure points, costs etc.
buddy could you write the metal parts purchase web link
No loctite ??? What a good habit to put loctite on, you are not making it...
I say to use it in the video, but this was being taken apart immediately after filming so did not use any