i dont mean to be so off topic but does any of you know a trick to get back into an instagram account..? I was dumb lost my account password. I would love any help you can offer me.
@Yael Jad thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
This is very interesting, reminds how CNC calibrate drill pit depth. But is it really so accurate with microswitch? Im thinking to do Z calibrate to normal CoreXY but with "light gate sensor" and adjust screw, so Im asking do you know is that accurate enough or woud u desing also light port switch to get best readings? 🤔🤷
The probe is used for tramming. The z endstop is for nozzle offset. This elements any issues with z offset drift from different enclosure/bed temperatures and also ensures your nozzle offset remains unchanged after nozzle change or hotend swap
Sorry I wasn’t clear with my question, I want to move the Z end stop so that it is activated by the gantry, is there a reason why I shouldn’t? Thanks, Steve
Not really recommened as the reason it pings off the nozzle is so your z offset remains the same. Even after changing nozzles or hotends. Having it just go off the gantry removes this feature completly
I am building a V2.4 350 from a Formbot kit. The build plate has two threaded blind holes along one edge, they are also opposite the surface that has been machined level. Do these holes have a function and if so what is the proper orientation? Thanks Steve
hey i building my own voron now. but i dont get one thing.... how u adjust this pin? because i will get a 8mm alu plate. And on that Plate i will fix an 1mm Pertinax Plate... should u Adjust or can u adjust this pin or do i have to set an Z offset manually? thx greets from austria
Here's one from the Voron 1.8 sourcing guide. Same as what you need in the 2.4 (it's a pretty generic switch): www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/omron-electronics-inc-emc-div/D2F-5L/Z8846-ND/8593137
because most limit switches cannot take repeated strikes from a heated nozzle, plus you need to have it moved away from the bed itself (thus the pin) otherwise heat transfer will affect accuracy
Nice integration. If I may comment, it's a bit complex for gear, maybe reaming/drilling the hole or a brass bushing could be considered instead of the pulley. But overall it's awesome work
The gear is used simply because it already has a slip fit hole for the pin and is also on the bom already Saves from having to order another component.
wouldnt the pin drop if you tilt the printer more than 90 degrees? how about filing a nocth on the perimeter of the pin at the height of the screw to use it to secure it? obviously, the notch would have to be wide to allow the pin to move :) perhaps can be done with a simple file and just by putting the pin on a drill ... you can remove the screw, mark the position, make the notch 1 mm under and 3 mm over the mark... to allow room, then put back the crew with loctite (not to tight the pin but just to keep it in place, not sure if i'm explaining myself
Hot nozzle, plastic switch? Also, the rod has a larger diameter than the micro switch, so it's easier for the nozzle to hit (less required precision). But still good questions to ask.
A year later wondering how this has worked out for you? Just finished putting my 2.4 together and I think this is maybe the weak point of the design. Prusa figured all this out years ago. They use a higher quality probe and use it for everything, and do away with the physical end stop entirely.
@@netpackrat never had a problem with the z stop. Had a problem with the probe bending pins due to normal operations. Euclid is the best option. And you can use it for z stop as well
So, having printed with the 2.4 for a few weeks now, I just wanted to note that I am actually starting to like the Z end stop and how it works. I suspect it's probably the next best thing to having the nozzle directly probe the bed as with TAP or Prusa's new extruder. Probably going to skip Klicky or Euclid entirely and go directly to TAP when I am ready to upgrade.
ingenious this definitely my next project after i finish repairing my c10s my a20m my bcn3d sigma and the mpcnc router that a collection of parts on the slow ship from China, of and i want a new lathe , but i definitely want one, I want one now
Hello, I'm a Voron enthusiast from China. May I transfer your video to bilibilibili for reprint? I'll indicate the source and author of reprint. I may also finish cutting your video. I hope I can get your consent
@@CanuckCreator Hm either my thumbscrews are to short or the gear too high. So I can't get the pin as close to the bed as shown. The plastic part is flush to the extrusion top using a PCB version. And the h33l I can't get those "JST" crimped right specially the insulation gripping part bends backwards instead going around. Using already the PA09 and the shown die size.
Hello, I'm a Voron enthusiast from China. May I transfer your video to bilibili for reprint? I'll indicate the source and author of reprint. I may also finish cutting your video. I hope I can get your consent
I seen the solder smoke and instinctively started blowing on my screen!! 😂
This is the kind of video that the Voron design team should insist on - it actually shows and explains how to DO something. Thank you for making it!
So nicely designed! Can't wait to finish my build
i dont mean to be so off topic but does any of you know a trick to get back into an instagram account..?
I was dumb lost my account password. I would love any help you can offer me.
@Lee Ford Instablaster :)
@Yael Jad thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Yael Jad It worked and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thank you so much, you really help me out!
@Lee Ford you are welcome :D
If plastic oozes out of nozzle wouldn't this change the repeatibility of the Z homing? Could the Z homing be changed to positive travel?
This is true however as long as you ha e the nozzle hot before homing you will be good to go
This is very interesting, reminds how CNC calibrate drill pit depth.
But is it really so accurate with microswitch? Im thinking to do Z calibrate to normal CoreXY but with "light gate sensor" and adjust screw, so Im asking do you know is that accurate enough or woud u desing also light port switch to get best readings? 🤔🤷
The switch is Accurate to one microstep.
I knew I wanted to go with a clicky probe, now I have to do it.
Why are you using 2 different types of Z probe? You already have a proximity sensor near hotend for bed leveling.
The probe is used for tramming. The z endstop is for nozzle offset. This elements any issues with z offset drift from different enclosure/bed temperatures and also ensures your nozzle offset remains unchanged after nozzle change or hotend swap
@@CanuckCreator thanks for answer! It's now clear. Have not finished my Voron so that's why I am asking
Great video, can this be used on creality ender 5 plus? I’m thinking of using auto z calibration. Thank you
wow that a awesome soldering pen
Thats pretty cool! VORON Design thout of everything!
What is the length of 5mm rod
It's an amazing project
Sorry I wasn’t clear with my question, I want to move the Z end stop so that it is activated by the gantry, is there a reason why I shouldn’t?
Thanks,
Steve
Not really recommened as the reason it pings off the nozzle is so your z offset remains the same. Even after changing nozzles or hotends.
Having it just go off the gantry removes this feature completly
I am building a V2.4 350 from a Formbot kit. The build plate has two threaded blind holes along one edge, they are also opposite the surface that has been machined level. Do these holes have a function and if so what is the proper orientation?
Thanks
Steve
Those holes go at the back. They are for the ground wire and thermal fuse
hey i building my own voron now. but i dont get one thing.... how u adjust this pin? because i will get a 8mm alu plate. And on that Plate i will fix an 1mm Pertinax Plate... should u Adjust or can u adjust this pin or do i have to set an Z offset manually? thx greets from austria
Pin height should be "close" to the same level as your bed, if its alittle above/below thats fine, just adjust the offset in firmware.
Great question, great answer. Thank you both!
@@CanuckCreator When you mention at "close" to the level of the bed... is this when the pin is "at rest" or when it is pressed down "actuated"?
What is z-offset called in fluidd?
Why need extra switch for v2? If add 4x passive block side by side bed into each corner, y can do leveling without any more switch.
Is there a utility to having the Z end stop activated by the extruder nozzle rather than one of the gantry beams?
Thanks,
Steve
The Z endstop is activated by the nozzle.
I think the connector is backwards, no?
Do any body know where to buy this sensor or buy the parts. I have the kit bit did not find the parts.
Can you share a link to the limit switches you use? The BOM doesn't have a specific kind. I am always confused about the voltages and etc...
Here's one from the Voron 1.8 sourcing guide. Same as what you need in the 2.4 (it's a pretty generic switch): www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/omron-electronics-inc-emc-div/D2F-5L/Z8846-ND/8593137
why can't we use normal limitswitches why choosing this complex design which will operate the same as any limitswitch ?
because most limit switches cannot take repeated strikes from a heated nozzle, plus you need to have it moved away from the bed itself (thus the pin) otherwise heat transfer will affect accuracy
Nice integration. If I may comment, it's a bit complex for gear, maybe reaming/drilling the hole or a brass bushing could be considered instead of the pulley.
But overall it's awesome work
The gear is used simply because it already has a slip fit hole for the pin and is also on the bom already
Saves from having to order another component.
wouldnt the pin drop if you tilt the printer more than 90 degrees? how about filing a nocth on the perimeter of the pin at the height of the screw to use it to secure it? obviously, the notch would have to be wide to allow the pin to move :)
perhaps can be done with a simple file and just by putting the pin on a drill ... you can remove the screw, mark the position, make the notch 1 mm under and 3 mm over the mark... to allow room, then put back the crew with loctite (not to tight the pin but just to keep it in place, not sure if i'm explaining myself
In design there is a notch so the setscrew can hold it captive yes.
@@CanuckCreator nice!!! thanks!
Why am the fuss with the pin and gear!?
Why not just make it hit the switch itself or just use a bare pin
Hot nozzle, plastic switch? Also, the rod has a larger diameter than the micro switch, so it's easier for the nozzle to hit (less required precision). But still good questions to ask.
What is this ts100 stand .?
I decided to use my probe as z endstop
A year later wondering how this has worked out for you? Just finished putting my 2.4 together and I think this is maybe the weak point of the design. Prusa figured all this out years ago. They use a higher quality probe and use it for everything, and do away with the physical end stop entirely.
@@netpackrat never had a problem with the z stop. Had a problem with the probe bending pins due to normal operations. Euclid is the best option. And you can use it for z stop as well
So, having printed with the 2.4 for a few weeks now, I just wanted to note that I am actually starting to like the Z end stop and how it works. I suspect it's probably the next best thing to having the nozzle directly probe the bed as with TAP or Prusa's new extruder. Probably going to skip Klicky or Euclid entirely and go directly to TAP when I am ready to upgrade.
ingenious this definitely my next project after i finish repairing my c10s my a20m my bcn3d sigma and the mpcnc router that a collection of parts on the slow ship from China, of and i want a new lathe , but i definitely want one, I want one now
What is the length of 5mm rod？
It is called out in the BOM. And may need to be adjusted based on how your bed is mounted. Should be equal or withib mm or two of the bed surface
Hello, I'm a Voron enthusiast from China. May I transfer your video to bilibilibili for reprint? I'll indicate the source and author of reprint. I may also finish cutting your video. I hope I can get your consent
Why do they use the gear? It seems just to be used as guide, but there are much better ways to do this...
Its cheap, an item already on the BOM, simple and it works
@@CanuckCreator Hm either my thumbscrews are to short or the gear too high. So I can't get the pin as close to the bed as shown. The plastic part is flush to the extrusion top using a PCB version. And the h33l I can't get those "JST" crimped right specially the insulation gripping part bends backwards instead going around. Using already the PA09 and the shown die size.
Everytime you say "zed" I picture the guy from Men In Black
@@khrttartrahht9448 Death end zaid?
Hello, I'm a Voron enthusiast from China. May I transfer your video to bilibili for reprint? I'll indicate the source and author of reprint. I may also finish cutting your video. I hope I can get your consent