overview of the tools and equipment you will need/want for your build Official part sourcing guide docs.google.com/spreadsheets/... www.vorondesign.com
Those ferrules may seem like overkill to most people, but I am a believer now. Went back and put ferrules on my previous builds and later had my heated bed slip out of my hands when I was working on the Y axis of my steel prusa. It "bungy jumped" off my workbench seemingly to it's death to be suspended by it's wiring. That wiring caught with a hard thump when the slack ran out. The ferrules remained tightly installed on the board and nothing seemed amiss after I put it back together and fired it up. Very glad I made that purchase and took the time to install them.
I have found that wax works very well when dealing with printed parts in moving contact with each other. Wax coupled with a little grease once the wax has been applied is even better. Thanks for the great video!
Specified food grade have meaning for industrial application, not for home use. Check SDS, food grade H1 declares safety for about 10 ppm (e.g. safe to eat 1kg meat + 10 mg of PTFE). Some prusa folks also recommend Divinol Lithogrease 000
I was wondering what your experiences are with silicone wire running through the generic/igus cable chains? I have a lot of silicone wire hanging around, so it would really save a lot of money.
If there's one tool you shouldn't cheap out on is the soldering iron if you have no to litle experience soldering. Because you will not be able to figure out if your solder is crap, your iron is crap or your technique is crap ;)
Voron requires two RAMPS - the first one is completely dedicated to Z axis. See the previous part of this series for details about this: ruclips.net/video/tPl-X-tKCnU/видео.html
@@CanuckCreator This is unfortunate, as far as I know leaded solder isn't available in the EU, at least not for private citizens. Would it be a huge problem for someone with limited soldering experience or do you think I could manage? I could try to source leaded solder from outside the EU but it's going to be a pain to get it I think. Thanks for your videos and the effort you put in them by the way, I'm binge-watching them
Of course you can use leadless. It's meant to replace leaded. Now leadless does flow less well, but it does work. Get a proper one. Always go for well ventilated as the Flux fumes are bad. Leaded solder fumes aren't worse, however do wash your hands properly and keep food away from your work bench. Same goes for when you're working with the soldered parts later on. Lead is harmful for your body and it can't get rid of it!
If anyone is watching this in 2021, don't bother with the manual crimpers shown in this video. The Engineer Pa-09 is bullshit just like the ratcheting one. Avoid manual crimpers at all cost, the whole point of a ratcheting mechanism for a crimping tool is consistency and higher applied force to the terminals. If you REALLY want one like these, check out Iwiss' iws-2820m. I own these, they are extremely similar and I hate them. For JST (XH, PH, ZH and some others) you should get an IWS-3220m ratcheting crimper. Again - consistent results and higher applied force, it is also cheaper. Then you'd still need a crimper for these "dupont" style connectors, here it depends on how much you want to spend but the best bang for the buck is the Tozoo TZ-4228b, followed by the IWISS SN-025, only to be beaten by the Hozan P-707 (Iwiss has a clone called IWS-1442L I believe). For quality of life I'd also suggest you get an automatic wire stripper because again, manual ones are way more inconsistent. Same applies to crimpers for insulated connections like these ferrule crimpers - ratcheting is where it's at. The one shown here will do the job just fine, apart from the shown manual tools this video is great, I subbed.
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Those ferrules may seem like overkill to most people, but I am a believer now. Went back and put ferrules on my previous builds and later had my heated bed slip out of my hands when I was working on the Y axis of my steel prusa. It "bungy jumped" off my workbench seemingly to it's death to be suspended by it's wiring. That wiring caught with a hard thump when the slack ran out. The ferrules remained tightly installed on the board and nothing seemed amiss after I put it back together and fired it up. Very glad I made that purchase and took the time to install them.
I have found that wax works very well when dealing with printed parts in moving contact with each other. Wax coupled with a little grease once the wax has been applied is even better. Thanks for the great video!
Thank you! I thought I was the only one with bad Allen keys stripping screw sockets!
The Engineer PA-09 is so good, worth every penny!
Specified food grade have meaning for industrial application, not for home use. Check SDS, food grade H1 declares safety for about 10 ppm (e.g. safe to eat 1kg meat + 10 mg of PTFE). Some prusa folks also recommend Divinol Lithogrease 000
TS100 is a great soldering iron
Thank you for this :)
7:23 Get yourself some proper strippers, that is quality advice!
I was wondering what your experiences are with silicone wire running through the generic/igus cable chains? I have a lot of silicone wire hanging around, so it would really save a lot of money.
I have those commercial electric strippers. They're one of my favorite but they're quite worn out. 😅
12:11 can you share details on the power supply 3d model file and its assembly. looks really neat.
link to the power supply cover?
If there's one tool you shouldn't cheap out on is the soldering iron if you have no to litle experience soldering. Because you will not be able to figure out if your solder is crap, your iron is crap or your technique is crap ;)
A lighter works fine if you don't have a wire stripper. Just heat enough to make the insulation soft and pull with your fingernails.
how is the ramps used with 7 motors btw?!
Voron requires two RAMPS - the first one is completely dedicated to Z axis. See the previous part of this series for details about this: ruclips.net/video/tPl-X-tKCnU/видео.html
Was that Doggo?
Why can you not use leadless solder?
60/40 solder flows and is much easier to work with than non-leaded solder. But do recommend using with ventilation
@@CanuckCreator This is unfortunate, as far as I know leaded solder isn't available in the EU, at least not for private citizens. Would it be a huge problem for someone with limited soldering experience or do you think I could manage? I could try to source leaded solder from outside the EU but it's going to be a pain to get it I think. Thanks for your videos and the effort you put in them by the way, I'm binge-watching them
Of course you can use leadless. It's meant to replace leaded. Now leadless does flow less well, but it does work. Get a proper one. Always go for well ventilated as the Flux fumes are bad. Leaded solder fumes aren't worse, however do wash your hands properly and keep food away from your work bench. Same goes for when you're working with the soldered parts later on. Lead is harmful for your body and it can't get rid of it!
I have to buy an engineer po9? , the traditional one don't work at all?
If anyone is watching this in 2021, don't bother with the manual crimpers shown in this video. The Engineer Pa-09 is bullshit just like the ratcheting one. Avoid manual crimpers at all cost, the whole point of a ratcheting mechanism for a crimping tool is consistency and higher applied force to the terminals. If you REALLY want one like these, check out Iwiss' iws-2820m. I own these, they are extremely similar and I hate them. For JST (XH, PH, ZH and some others) you should get an IWS-3220m ratcheting crimper. Again - consistent results and higher applied force, it is also cheaper.
Then you'd still need a crimper for these "dupont" style connectors, here it depends on how much you want to spend but the best bang for the buck is the Tozoo TZ-4228b, followed by the IWISS SN-025, only to be beaten by the Hozan P-707 (Iwiss has a clone called IWS-1442L I believe).
For quality of life I'd also suggest you get an automatic wire stripper because again, manual ones are way more inconsistent. Same applies to crimpers for insulated connections like these ferrule crimpers - ratcheting is where it's at. The one shown here will do the job just fine, apart from the shown manual tools this video is great, I subbed.
And for PTFE wires, which combination set of stripper and crimper(s) tools (brand/model) would you recommend?
I really hate this video. I just spent $120 in tools.
jesus 40$ crimp tool 0_0 i'll just solder them
The Engineers PA-09? Bought mine for crimping fiddly 1mm and 1.27mm pitch connectors (I.e. even smaller than 2.54 pitch Dupont). Worth Every Penny.
A nice pin crimper is worth it. I have a $120 soldering station. Good tools are amazing!
I have an even better one: PA-09 is 50 to 55 € for European CCCs (Cash Cow Customers)