Formbot Voron 2.4 r2 Kit Update [February 2023]: I got my Kit 5 days ago and wanted to share an update. - Panels are looking better than in the video. Very clean and no big scratches - Wire Harnesses are included. No need for crimping yourself. Everything is labeled. You connect all fans and other stuff with a plug into a cable that will go to the electronics - Cable Chains are the ones you can open - a lot easier cableing - There are sending some extra/spare parts now swell. Not as much as in LDO kits and not of every kind. Especially screw and some thing like an idler, .. is extra - Motors are completely from Moons. No more brand you don't know. - Heater Cartridge is now described on it's bag - it's 40W / 24V (do check!, you never know) - You'll get the X and Y Endstop PCB directly. Aswell as the Z one. - Octopuz V1.1 MCU Board - Extrusions were cutted just fine in my case (could be luck) - Got one MGN12 Rail instead of two MGN9- all are just fine - PEI Sheet looks like Amber and has the Voron Logo on it - Bed Flatness: around 0.1 in difference from highest to lowest point - Got some Plastic injection parts for Free (Afterburner and Exhaust parts - with heat inserts) - in black/red
This was over a year ago, my impression is that the Formbot kits have improved somewhat. It would be nice to have an updated review of those. I understand that the LDO kits are better but damn... they cost twice as much as the Formbots.
I'll be honest after self sourcing from Australia, the kit looks very good as a start base. Just need to swap out a handful of components if you want to go a bit more advanced. But not having the luxury of stores located in North America or Europe with crazy shipping costs (some which won't even international ship) it works out significantly cheaper.
The fact that the biggest criticism he found after checking pretty rigorously was "can't be sure every kit is like this...there is no oversight" is pretty telling.
I officially purchased all of the items for a Voron 0.1. It will be some time before it arrives but I am super excited. I was VERY tempted to buy the Formbot kit and for the sake of how much I spent (about double) still wonder if I made the right decision. However, I am sure I will be happy in the long run and really liked the features the 0.1 had. Awesome stream and looking forward to contributing (hopefully in some help videos) to others. :)
I am currently building the exact same kit being reviewed in this video. I am new to the Voron community and need some help figuring out the appropriate venue is to post my build experience, so please let me know. Also for the benefit of others: I have found that the Voron Sourcing Guide organizes the parts into several kits of approved parts which makes ordering much easier than buying individually. Had I known this earlier I might have ordered from the sourcing guide rather from a vendor offering a complete kit of possibly unapproved parts. So far, though, I am pleased with the Formbot kit but have only built the frame and gantry at this point. It remains to be seen if I will maintain my satisfaction. In my kit the idlers also have the wrong tooth profile as does the kit in the video but the other pulleys are correct. I am currently in contact with Formbot and they seem willing to replace the bad parts. I will post more about the replacements after the negotiations are complete.
good luck, been watching these sets too, but were sceptical. I roughly calculated to ship from recommended vendors but its pain to get it all shipped to norway. so no voron here until these kits are good enough.
@@sveinjohansen6271 I will be posting my build experience on the Redit Voron forum so you can look for it there. I have researched some of the issues that Nero mentioned, like the quality of the SSR, and will be posting that as well. I have finished building the frame and gantry and so far am very happy with the kit. Certainly the major mechanical parts are good quality and the included hardware is plentiful and well labeled.
still printing all my parts for my first custom 3d printer and listening to you all i can say is thank you for being upfront and real... makes me think about what i am putting into my project and make sure what i am going to be doing with it
I have been running a 5mm rolled 5083 aluminium plate on my DIY corexy for about 2 years. 350x250. Still straight as an arrow. This is a 3d printer, not a telescope launched into space. Perhaps we are spending too much money and time on sourcing parts, that are worthy for a NASA expedition to Mars? A machined 8mm bed is sufficient. Cheap shots at the milling machine is ludicrous. I’ve seen million dollar KERN machines leaves similar marks, and texture can be felt, but does not indicate incorrect tramming (but a slightly worn or chipped tool). Anyway, were are adhering a magnet with tolerances that are magnitudes higher, than any imperfections in this milling operation. Seriously.... not an unbiased unboxing. One of the most crucial parts for print quality, are the GT2 pulleys on A and B motor. A slight wobble here wreaks havoc on surface quality. 2 genuine Gates pulleys won’t break the bank. Concerns on the SSR are correct.
Human fingers can sense nano scale elevations in a surface, and with nano scale, I don't mean 100nm or something, no, right down to like 10nm, the level where you could feel individual gates on a CPU. So going by touch is useless, you'll always notice irregularities. Printers however, especially ones with decent bed leveling matrix routines can even operate with over 1mm variance in the plate. My worst warped Ender 3 plate was only 0,5mm variance. After some bending and lapping, 0.05 measured on a granite block.
Yeah I don't know why people get so fussy about the flatness of the bed considering it's probably all over the place once you stick another sheet on top of it.
Thanks for going through the formbot kit. I bought the exact same one and am going through it right now...its super useful to hear what to swap out/what to look out for.
Just built an LDO 350 V2.4 Rev c. Their kit was brilliant. Tons of extras, tools, klcky probe parts, nevermore parts, LDO motors obviously. It was pricey, but had almost everything. Runs like a dream. My third printer but first voron, I'm afraid I'm ruined for any other brand, lol.
I know the flexibility Voron provides by being descriptive and not prescriptive about parts and best practices. It is really great, but I think with popularity of Voron increasing, it is really important to have a Voron approved kit provider. Sourcing parts is fun, but it can also be a pain especially when getting stuff from far east. The real joy is in building the beast and admiring it.
the Voron team will likely never explicitly or implicitly recommend a specific kit. Just look through the BOM, then look at the listing. If it's the same items as the BOM in the kit, then go for it. If not, then don't
I think it will be necessary for some "official" kit provider to be found. Without one Voron will really struggle to reach the popularity of other models. The best solution is probably a community run group that handles group buys and shipping them out.
@@LanceThumping Why does Voron need to reach the popularity of other models? Voron isn't a closed source, for-profit venture, there is no stated goal of winning any popularity contests. The price of the printer is affordable because you can source and assemble it yourself, with no guarantee of support or warranty.
@@seetherage The community wont grow is its always a nightmare to source the parts or over taken with crappy suppliers most people will think its junk...they need a supplier that can provide all the parts in one location that are legit parts, genuine and to the BOM. I would like to use them for a commercial print farm but lack of parts and support, poor documentation etc really make it a poor choice atm despite its amazing performance.
Even the Voron sourcing guide recommends a lot of aliexpress suppliers for parts. I bet any approved supplier is just going to be reselling the same stuff you'd get on aliexpress.
The formbot V0 kit is so much cheaper than the BOM I made for self sourcing I figured I'd still come out on top even if I had to replace a bunch of parts. This'll be my third printer build though, so I feel comfortable making that choice. I definitely wouldn't recommend it for new players.
I completed the same kit form AliExpress (Formbot) last week. It took about 40 hours to complete. There were tonnes of leftover bolts, nuts and wire. Belts were too long so had to cut them and the bottom panels were 3mm too long but the rest fitter together well. Very happy with the build. No way I could get quality parts in Australia Could not have done it without Nero’s videos.
Honestly, I think Voron should consider partnering with someone (or multiple) as the "official" Voron kit to help people get quality parts and also maybe make the team a little side cash. My biggest frustration so far is sourcing. I'm enjoying learning the building process, but hate the sourcing process. Also I personally would rather pay a little more for a local source that will be here in a week vs Ali which may have a month or more shipping time. It would be nice to have an "official" EU, NA and Asia source for kits.
Yeah, I would prefer an approved kit that the seller worked with the Voron team to make, though I wouldn't mind if it was still shipped from overseas, granted I usually can get stuff in less than two weeks from Ali.
@@creamofbotulismsoup9900 I understand many people don't care about shipping from China if it's cheaper. That's fine. I'd just love an option of a local source for quicker shipments and don't mind paying more. Choices are always better for everyone.
@@siegeperry a local source could totally come to happen, just a matter of Voron becoming more popular and a Vendor/Person willing to put a lot down to get the Parts in bulk.
So the reason I said make a Phaetus TL hybrid is because most of the TL parts are a bit cheaper, except the Biqu/Phaetus heatbreak, the heatbrake is not only cheaper but the V2 Phaetus HF uses a ceramic insulator instead of a fiberglass sock thing. I'm going to build a couple that way myself once I get them and probably sell one of them once they start to get really hard to find. I confirmed with TL that they are spec'd the same so they should fit. Basically can build most of a dragon hotend for about 60 bucks that way, I guess it's only 15 dollars cheaper than the TL dragon, which DFORCE is still selling if you're looking for a dragon, DFORCE is TL's sister store, they sell the same products, for the same prices.
I don't mind this type of cable drag chain... There are ways to easily guide wires through these unopenable cable chains. What I did was to wrap the ends of the wires with some tape. Any tape will do, but I used some green curing tape with a light spray of silicone over it. It can be faster than snapping in and out every flap on each link, unless when you are adding or removing some wires when modding. You can even put multiple wire ends fitted with connectors through, by bundling them in a staggered manner.
Had a look at the Z idler 2GTs from Formbot under a microscope.. although the top of them are flat, the tooth profile is not trapezoidal like the MXL. It looks like 2GT shape. Can provide a closeup if that helps.
Thank you for the video and your time...Just assemble and test and see if you can recommend or not. The lead time for components and source all is a PITA! At the end you can not know unless you assemble and test I guess
This is a good review Nero! I had the same complaints and did also get Spares when I ordered the kit, this way while I have been doing the build I know that I have spares.
I just built my 300mm³ from formbot had zero issues with any of the supplied components. I received the skr1.4 turbo for mcu and got a keenovo bed heater in the kit also got some extra hardware as well it wasn't exact to bom on nuts and bolts other than that the quality was decent other than the drag chains they were junk upgraded those quick, but the kit seems to be holding up very well I've ran about 40 hours through it now with zero issues.
Thats one of the things we are not happy with. Your kit had skrs. Keenovo heater etc. This one is different. Who knows what the next ones will have. We can never endorse something that cant keep consistent components kit to kit.
Being from australia and not having access to buying the parts locally.. im thinking it might be best to buy one of these kits and just change out a couple of the things I CAN get locally (heater, stepper motors, wiring)
27:50 I worry about PTFE wires. If something starts to melt, will it off-gas like the tubing? Silicone is supposed to never burn, it will just melt, short, and blow the fuse.
300LSE is probably a better adhesive for the magnet and the PEI sheet TBH. LSE = low surface energy (aka plastics and paints). MP = multipurpose. I have used both in a project at work and had to test them. LSE was significantly better on painted surfaces/oily surface in my experience. Both are good on aluminum but the limiting factor is the surface energy of the plastic/magnetic
Another reason not to source one big kit priced at 1k-ish euros is that (here in nl at least) you´ll get hit with import and vat coming in around 200-300 eur extra. With smaller packages priced less than 20eur vat and import are waved. So I got like 30-40 packages. Electronics were sourced domestically and IGUS is german and the go-to in europe.
Actually "sourcing" means buying the parts piecemeal, it's the opposite of buying a complete kit. So to say that you "sourced a kit" is a contradiction in terms.
Hi, Great video. Much information. Planning to buy a 2.4 kit and upgrade it with Octopus+Octoprint. Do you have links for the better parts that you would replace the iffy parts from this kit? Is there a kit for afterburner you can recommend?
I received my Formbot kit a few days ago. The seller was out of SKR, so I got refunded for them, but still got 7 TMC2209 BTT packaged drivers. The Pi is delivered without a flash, so I suspect the 2 flashcards that were in your box was meant for the SKR. The part list does not mention a flashcard for the Pi. There ARE extra screws. About 3-6 in each bag (didn’t count the M3 8mm though).
Mine arrived two days ago. Same experinence like you had. The boards were missing. Also no SD Cards. But 7 Bigtreetech TMC2209 in 7 separate packages. They will send me for the missing SKRs to Spiderboard. It was my choice if spiderboard or a refund. But they didn‘t mentioned., how much the refund is. What did they offered you?
@@andreasthorsten1850 I was offered the Spider as well, but opted out. Was refunded 38 euro, but didn’t bother querying for more. Sourced BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo from Czech Republic that arrived before the Formbot kit (so now I have plenty of TMC2209’s). Frame assembled with just one thread being slightly too short (had taps, so no issue). Square within 0.5mm with zero effort or tinkering. Way better machined extrusions than my old Tevo Black Widow and on par with my favorite german extrusion pusher, Dold Mechatronik. Sourced an Asenco SSR from Germany. Too crucial a part in terms of safety.
@@andreasthorsten1850 I’ve heard of others that received TwoTreeTech boards, without any communication, so I’m satisfied to be offered a refund rather than receiving something I would probably replace.
@@StangspringDK funny, the same here. One thread was shorter than the others. Beside that, the frame looks very good and square. I changed the SSR also. Selected the Cryodom SSR and bought it from a German seller (voelkner).
But does the wire size marked on the insulation reflect reality, or are they thinner and labeled incorrectly? (Yeah, this is apparently a thing if you try going too cheap)
I'm planning on building a Voron. I've already purchased a Prusa Mini+ (not overly impressed with the printer or the support) and want to live with it for a year or so before I even embark on the Voron journey. I'm also an EE and worked in IT for years so I think I have a pretty good base to work with. I still want to view every video, read every guide and make sure I know what I'm getting into before I self-source or get an LDO kit.
My advice to all new comers is DON’T buy the kit unless you know exactly what you are getting and have substitutes on hand. Here are some of the issues with the AExprs kit. Extrusions are likely v slot instead of BOM t slot. Nero mentioned some extrusion may have larger grove, that is Blurolls kit, theirs 1mm wider and require modified STL. Chinese Crydom and Omron SSR are all fake. Many of the plate is not 0.1mm flat, mic 6 or atp 5 regardless what they say. Also, bed heater may need to be replaced with Keenovo.
Believe it or not, LDO recommends the Formbot kits until they release their own. I just bought one. But plan on "extra sourcing" some parts for my build. I don't want the cheapest kit, I just don't want to source the entire BOM.
Only about 30min into watching this. Missed the stream cuz I was at work. Can you please share your notepad with the items that need replacing? I also bought the formbot kit with the intension of replacing what wasn't to spec.
honestly if you dont have the knowledge to know what to look for from spec voron BOM list and digging into recommended manufacturer specs then a voron kit aint for you. after recieving the kit every nut and bolt needs to be measured to spec before building it from the kit as the kit might be different when you recieve it, as it all depends on whats available that day your kit gets packed. Atleast take the evening enjoy opening the kit, take every single bag out measure it and look into the spec from the BOM list. its part of the hobby. all components have links to different vendors that offer good drawings of how parts should look like. it only takes one evening to go through and double check it all.
@@sveinjohansen6271 cut the gate keeping shit and help or GTFO. The fact is you can self source and still end up with parts that dont' work right... 3d printing communities are places for people to come together and help each NOT for you to get all puffed up and strut.
That goes against the entire spirit of Voron and would create an unfair amount of pressure on the voron community to adopt standards and provide support. Certain individuals within the community have tried to monetize the project in the past, and it backfired. The project is now opensource with much larger community contributions then before. It's also been shown time and again that these nameless companies that are creating these kits have no interest in providing support or any amount of quality. Hop on the discord and you'll see that nearly all the 'kits' have missing and subpar components.
I buy it 2 days ago, I asked to replace the e3d v6 + raspberry 4 with a phaetus dragon high flow. I already have the raspberry in stock and they wanted to. I asked who the dragon's supplier was and it's phaetus. The board is a spider. I asked if other parts could be changed like the color of the extrusions. I also asked if a pei could be put on the back of the flexible plate.
Kits are a relatively new thing. The printer was designed as a self source design. So your not tied to any one vendor for components. Theres examples in the sourcing guide of known good vendors for components and also the discord has alot of community information if you have questions
@@CanuckCreator Came across the printer through the 5:20 min benchy video and It has been on my mind ever since,to get one.Someone should put a original kit together and charge a bit extra for people like me.The voron printer design is something else I have to say,the nicest printer at the moment
I weren't ready to self source. nor was i ready to put my trust in some no name kit, that's the reason why i went Rat Rig V-core and shelled out the money for a printer that was coming from their site.
Molex does make Microfit connectors with the panel mount ears, so this is not a reliable way to tell knockoffs. Example: Molex PN 436400401 has no ears, while 436400400 does have ears. (I'm not saying those in the kit are legit)
Does anybody know if there's a print it forward program for someone that wants to get parts for the VZBOT build just like the voron does? I really want to build the VZBOT. They're both pretty similar but have there differences right? I think it's the bed that's different.
They have extra length on the precut cables. This is a preference thing. I'd rather them be precut to the same length with a little extra than screw with it myself. Otherwise why are you buying a kit?
“You do not buy a Voron. You build a Voron.” Correction: “You wait months for each piece of a Voron; then you build a Voron.” But this is what you get for not ordering parts for a Voron, months prior to knowing what a Voron is.
Hey Nero, I have experience in 3d printing owning several printers, but after watching all your videos I wanna build a voron. I did some modding and changing things up on my other printers (Sidewinder x1, ender 3, prusa mk3s) But Im not sure if I start to bud an voron switch wire or an voron corexy? Whats your suggestion if you build first time a voron?
Also I’d like the kit to have 14 gauge wiring I will putting a 350 watt power supply in it to power my enraged Rabbit carrot feeder and Klipper expander board if there’s no 14 gauge wiring kit what is the best way to go about wiring it is there an electrical connector kit I buy?
I have been involved in the Voron project for 3 years now and have always built my 3D printers from Prusa i3 to latest Vorons with all intermediate possible models in terms of complexity. Lately the average level of knowledge from people interested in building Vorons has dramatically felt to almost zero, especially those wandering the FB group. It is difficult to keep impatient and aggressive newbies from understanding that building such machines is not for everybody. It is good Nero took the time to explain it again... All this mainstream exposure of the Voron project is good and bad at the same time. 3D printing is an extremely vast field requiring a lot of knowledge on many technical fields (mechatronics, electronics, material science, software, coding...). I could never have managed to build a Voron without previous build experience, and I do design my own electronics (power, digital and analog) and I have worked with MCUs for 10 years. I cannot imagine someone with no previous extended technical experience jumping into such a complex project without generating immense amounts of frustration for himself.
well said! If anything, these kits will more than likely decrease the quality of the built machines, not so much due to the quality of the parts in the kits themselves, but the hands behind the assembly of said machine
Hey its been awhile So this video gets brought up a bit now-a-days it seems, so just want to touch on some things -At the time this video was made MANY of the kits that were popping up had issues, I mean things like missing components, completely wrong components (v slot extrusions for example), motors weaker than a dollar store RC car, wiring and other electrical issues that were straight up dangerous, etc. So while the tone may seem a bit harsh looking back, please bear in mind the team was seeing many new builders buying kits, who didnt have much background in 3dp itself and the knowledge of components and what-not, and some were running into some pretty sever safety issues. Now, it has been awhile, and while kits have improved, remember there are NO officially endorsed kits by the Voron Design team still.
Hello, im approaching the voron community and actually Im building something resembling switchwire from what I have already. I'm very curious about if there is upcoming a voron delta printer
Is there anyone building high quality sourced vorons as a complete unit? I really want one for my shop/print farm but trying to source all the components, wading through questionable kits and building it is not really a very good solution. Super interested but I dont understand why they have made it so hard to put one together when I can buy another BUILT prusa i3 for less?
Shipping oils don't need to come off...unless they have hardened or discolored, they will mix with whatever lube you use. Soaking/ultrasonic a precision bearing is a last-ditch effort to clear a problem, not a standard 'new bearing' treatment!
The problem is. And this is something i and others have experienced. Is that many times the rails come "gritty" from the supplier. You see metal dust from cutting or grinding the rails in the carriages as its all done open air in the same location. Even my most recent batch. Which felt pretty clean. Had a decent amount of metal grit come out in the ultra sonic bath.
Someone tried the Bluerolls kit (it is a bit expensive LDO motors, etc)? btw thx for video, won't buy it ;) Will search for another kit option ... oh! I have said "kit" again? hehehe
There's a video about that kit, search "voron bluerolls unboxing". At first sight it seems better than formbot, except that we don't know if the build plate is de-stressed and level.
It did seem like his attitude towards the kit was "guilty until proven innocent". So some of those perceived issues were not as bad as they were portrayed. All in all they were minor and I'm glad I bought the kit. Saved me a lot of effort in sourcing!
@@andonguyen7970 I am finally into my build and happy to report that I have chains with opening tops in my kit which was one thing I was worried about after watching this video. I think they may have watched this or figured out what they missed and actually tried to address any legit issues. Everything I got looks right and I'm excited to get er all put together!
Just don't. You're giving money to an unknown startup run by a guy that sounds like he just graduated from high school in the hopes that a few months from now you'll get a printer nobody has reviewed.
Yeah the last thing I backed on Kickstarter was survive the nights. I’ll never do another crowd funder again. After so many years or waiting the game is completely unplayable.
@@massv953 I don't, unfortunately, but I suppose you should look around locally first. A fully built printer would be a pain to ship. Don't forget, also, that there are other printers available which are at least similar (Ender 7 for instance).
Very frustrated listening to this. I thought that he was going to evaluate the kit against the BOM. Instead, he makes up his evaulation criteria one item at a time. Silicone wires are a good example. The BOM says silcone. He preferes PTFE because he has access to information as part of the development group. Not really a fair comparison.
FIVE MINUTES AND FORTY SECONDS before you start to get to the point, you can edit that down a bit! As of the time I am writing this, this video has 56,336 views, which means that gap has cost the world collectively 5,324 hours, which is 221 days, or about 7.4 months. Come on, man... Other than that, very informative!
@@CanuckCreator I'm just giving you a hard time, dude. You do have a lot of great content though, it just sometimes makes it hard to find where the meat of the message is.
This guy is clearly just desperate to find fault. Starts out claiming not suitable for beginners (true), and then complains about issues that would come up only for rookie builders (e.g. lose large parts like pulleys, cut belts too short).
I get the fun but these machines feel overly complicated for a minor gain to me. I'd rather make a printer with less parts that prints a bit slower. After all the time you spent making the printer will take a while to print back 😉
A recurring theme in this video: they don't give you spares, or in other words, they don't give you extra parts for free. Disappointing video from this channel.
He doesn't say they should give you spares for free. He says they should give you spares period. Even if that means the kit is more expensive. Note that he's not complaining about the price, but rather that people is attracted to these kits because of the price among other reasons.
@@DiThi When does he say they should give you extra parts period? Timestamp please. And why or why should anyone give you extra parts. I love extra parts just as much as the next guy but I have agency, I can choose to buy a kit without extra parts or choose not to buy such a kit.
@@rollotomasi1832 You are the one that said "they don't give you extra parts for free", so you are the one that should prove he said or implied that they should be given for free. And the reason to have spare parts is because many are very small and it's easy to lose them or miscount them and cost very little. For buying a $1000 kit I would expect a few dollars spent in making sure I don't have to hunt random pieces that got lost or miscounted, or a bit extra belt to have wiggle room in case of mistakes. If you have to be ordering missing parts and waiting several more weeks it kind of defeats the purpose of having a kit.
![[4K] Watch SpaceX Catch A Starship Rocket From Space!!! #IFT5](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pIKI7y3DTXk/mqdefault.jpg)
Formbot Voron 2.4 r2 Kit Update [February 2023]:
I got my Kit 5 days ago and wanted to share an update.
- Panels are looking better than in the video. Very clean and no big scratches
- Wire Harnesses are included. No need for crimping yourself. Everything is labeled. You connect all fans and other stuff with a plug into a cable that will go to the electronics
- Cable Chains are the ones you can open - a lot easier cableing
- There are sending some extra/spare parts now swell. Not as much as in LDO kits and not of every kind. Especially screw and some thing like an idler, .. is extra
- Motors are completely from Moons. No more brand you don't know.
- Heater Cartridge is now described on it's bag - it's 40W / 24V (do check!, you never know)
- You'll get the X and Y Endstop PCB directly. Aswell as the Z one.
- Octopuz V1.1 MCU Board
- Extrusions were cutted just fine in my case (could be luck)
- Got one MGN12 Rail instead of two MGN9- all are just fine
- PEI Sheet looks like Amber and has the Voron Logo on it
- Bed Flatness: around 0.1 in difference from highest to lowest point
- Got some Plastic injection parts for Free (Afterburner and Exhaust parts - with heat inserts) - in black/red
Thanks for that, I am about to buy the Trident 300mm kit.
Thanks for the info!
does it come with Dragon hotend? It is listed as an option
This was over a year ago, my impression is that the Formbot kits have improved somewhat. It would be nice to have an updated review of those. I understand that the LDO kits are better but damn... they cost twice as much as the Formbots.
Wrote a comment about the kit from 5 days ago:)
I'll be honest after self sourcing from Australia, the kit looks very good as a start base. Just need to swap out a handful of components if you want to go a bit more advanced. But not having the luxury of stores located in North America or Europe with crazy shipping costs (some which won't even international ship) it works out significantly cheaper.
The fact that the biggest criticism he found after checking pretty rigorously was "can't be sure every kit is like this...there is no oversight" is pretty telling.
I officially purchased all of the items for a Voron 0.1. It will be some time before it arrives but I am super excited. I was VERY tempted to buy the Formbot kit and for the sake of how much I spent (about double) still wonder if I made the right decision. However, I am sure I will be happy in the long run and really liked the features the 0.1 had. Awesome stream and looking forward to contributing (hopefully in some help videos) to others. :)
I just love clicking on a video on youtube for something I am interested in and finding an unedited stream complete with preroll from 4 months ago.
I am currently building the exact same kit being reviewed in this video. I am new to the Voron community and need some help figuring out the appropriate venue is to post my build experience, so please let me know.
Also for the benefit of others: I have found that the Voron Sourcing Guide organizes the parts into several kits of approved parts which makes ordering much easier than buying individually. Had I known this earlier I might have ordered from the sourcing guide rather from a vendor offering a complete kit of possibly unapproved parts. So far, though, I am pleased with the Formbot kit but have only built the frame and gantry at this point. It remains to be seen if I will maintain my satisfaction.
In my kit the idlers also have the wrong tooth profile as does the kit in the video but the other pulleys are correct. I am currently in contact with Formbot and they seem willing to replace the bad parts. I will post more about the replacements after the negotiations are complete.
good luck, been watching these sets too, but were sceptical. I roughly calculated to ship from recommended vendors but its pain to get it all shipped to norway. so no voron here until these kits are good enough.
@@sveinjohansen6271 I will be posting my build experience on the Redit Voron forum so you can look for it there. I have researched some of the issues that Nero mentioned, like the quality of the SSR, and will be posting that as well. I have finished building the frame and gantry and so far am very happy with the kit. Certainly the major mechanical parts are good quality and the included hardware is plentiful and well labeled.
still printing all my parts for my first custom 3d printer and listening to you all i can say is thank you for being upfront and real... makes me think about what i am putting into my project and make sure what i am going to be doing with it
I have been running a 5mm rolled 5083 aluminium plate on my DIY corexy for about 2 years. 350x250. Still straight as an arrow. This is a 3d printer, not a telescope launched into space. Perhaps we are spending too much money and time on sourcing parts, that are worthy for a NASA expedition to Mars?
A machined 8mm bed is sufficient. Cheap shots at the milling machine is ludicrous. I’ve seen million dollar KERN machines leaves similar marks, and texture can be felt, but does not indicate incorrect tramming (but a slightly worn or chipped tool). Anyway, were are adhering a magnet with tolerances that are magnitudes higher, than any imperfections in this milling operation. Seriously.... not an unbiased unboxing. One of the most crucial parts for print quality, are the GT2 pulleys on A and B motor. A slight wobble here wreaks havoc on surface quality. 2 genuine Gates pulleys won’t break the bank. Concerns on the SSR are correct.
Human fingers can sense nano scale elevations in a surface, and with nano scale, I don't mean 100nm or something, no, right down to like 10nm, the level where you could feel individual gates on a CPU. So going by touch is useless, you'll always notice irregularities.
Printers however, especially ones with decent bed leveling matrix routines can even operate with over 1mm variance in the plate.
My worst warped Ender 3 plate was only 0,5mm variance.
After some bending and lapping, 0.05 measured on a granite block.
Yeah I don't know why people get so fussy about the flatness of the bed considering it's probably all over the place once you stick another sheet on top of it.
Thanks for going through the formbot kit. I bought the exact same one and am going through it right now...its super useful to hear what to swap out/what to look out for.
Mine arrived the day before yesterday. so i also found it very exciting
Just built an LDO 350 V2.4 Rev c. Their kit was brilliant. Tons of extras, tools, klcky probe parts, nevermore parts, LDO motors obviously. It was pricey, but had almost everything. Runs like a dream. My third printer but first voron, I'm afraid I'm ruined for any other brand, lol.
I know the flexibility Voron provides by being descriptive and not prescriptive about parts and best practices. It is really great, but I think with popularity of Voron increasing, it is really important to have a Voron approved kit provider. Sourcing parts is fun, but it can also be a pain especially when getting stuff from far east. The real joy is in building the beast and admiring it.
the Voron team will likely never explicitly or implicitly recommend a specific kit. Just look through the BOM, then look at the listing. If it's the same items as the BOM in the kit, then go for it. If not, then don't
I think it will be necessary for some "official" kit provider to be found. Without one Voron will really struggle to reach the popularity of other models.
The best solution is probably a community run group that handles group buys and shipping them out.
@@LanceThumping Why does Voron need to reach the popularity of other models? Voron isn't a closed source, for-profit venture, there is no stated goal of winning any popularity contests. The price of the printer is affordable because you can source and assemble it yourself, with no guarantee of support or warranty.
@@seetherage The community wont grow is its always a nightmare to source the parts or over taken with crappy suppliers most people will think its junk...they need a supplier that can provide all the parts in one location that are legit parts, genuine and to the BOM. I would like to use them for a commercial print farm but lack of parts and support, poor documentation etc really make it a poor choice atm despite its amazing performance.
Even the Voron sourcing guide recommends a lot of aliexpress suppliers for parts. I bet any approved supplier is just going to be reselling the same stuff you'd get on aliexpress.
@NERO3d Thanks for putting out solid info out there that doesn't know whats up with all the parts
The formbot V0 kit is so much cheaper than the BOM I made for self sourcing I figured I'd still come out on top even if I had to replace a bunch of parts. This'll be my third printer build though, so I feel comfortable making that choice. I definitely wouldn't recommend it for new players.
I completed the same kit form AliExpress (Formbot) last week. It took about 40 hours to complete. There were tonnes of leftover bolts, nuts and wire. Belts were too long so had to cut them and the bottom panels were 3mm too long but the rest fitter together well.
Very happy with the build. No way I could get quality parts in Australia
Could not have done it without Nero’s videos.
Haha ya I’m crazy and the same voron will be my first printer. Just ordered one, will be looking foreword to that corvette ride
6:45 Wishing I could post a photo meme with Boromir saying "One does not simply buy a Voron".
Honestly, I think Voron should consider partnering with someone (or multiple) as the "official" Voron kit to help people get quality parts and also maybe make the team a little side cash. My biggest frustration so far is sourcing. I'm enjoying learning the building process, but hate the sourcing process. Also I personally would rather pay a little more for a local source that will be here in a week vs Ali which may have a month or more shipping time. It would be nice to have an "official" EU, NA and Asia source for kits.
Yeah, I would prefer an approved kit that the seller worked with the Voron team to make, though I wouldn't mind if it was still shipped from overseas, granted I usually can get stuff in less than two weeks from Ali.
@@creamofbotulismsoup9900 I understand many people don't care about shipping from China if it's cheaper. That's fine. I'd just love an option of a local source for quicker shipments and don't mind paying more. Choices are always better for everyone.
@@siegeperry a local source could totally come to happen, just a matter of Voron becoming more popular and a Vendor/Person willing to put a lot down to get the Parts in bulk.
@@siegeperry because I'm in the same boat as you are.. a ton of guys are jumping into Vorons over here in Missouri
@@br0k3nilluzion Is anyone building quality vorons complete in states or a US supplier for all the parts? I refuse to order anything from ali express
So the reason I said make a Phaetus TL hybrid is because most of the TL parts are a bit cheaper, except the Biqu/Phaetus heatbreak, the heatbrake is not only cheaper but the V2 Phaetus HF uses a ceramic insulator instead of a fiberglass sock thing. I'm going to build a couple that way myself once I get them and probably sell one of them once they start to get really hard to find. I confirmed with TL that they are spec'd the same so they should fit. Basically can build most of a dragon hotend for about 60 bucks that way, I guess it's only 15 dollars cheaper than the TL dragon, which DFORCE is still selling if you're looking for a dragon, DFORCE is TL's sister store, they sell the same products, for the same prices.
I don't mind this type of cable drag chain... There are ways to easily guide wires through these unopenable cable chains. What I did was to wrap the ends of the wires with some tape. Any tape will do, but I used some green curing tape with a light spray of silicone over it. It can be faster than snapping in and out every flap on each link, unless when you are adding or removing some wires when modding. You can even put multiple wire ends fitted with connectors through, by bundling them in a staggered manner.
You dont just fish floppy wire on its own through unopening chains push a cable rod through then pull in a draw wire
Had a look at the Z idler 2GTs from Formbot under a microscope.. although the top of them are flat, the tooth profile is not trapezoidal like the MXL. It looks like 2GT shape. Can provide a closeup if that helps.
This. Is. Gospel. Truth. Thank you, Nero, for level-setting this.
Thank you for the video and your time...Just assemble and test and see if you can recommend or not. The lead time for components and source all is a PITA! At the end you can not know unless you assemble and test I guess
This is a good review Nero! I had the same complaints and did also get Spares when I ordered the kit, this way while I have been doing the build I know that I have spares.
Try the sourcing guide, people! It makes things much easier if you don't quite know what you're doing.
It seems like you were trying way too hard to find something wrong with the kit and it was exactly what it said it was.
I just built my 300mm³ from formbot had zero issues with any of the supplied components. I received the skr1.4 turbo for mcu and got a keenovo bed heater in the kit also got some extra hardware as well it wasn't exact to bom on nuts and bolts other than that the quality was decent other than the drag chains they were junk upgraded those quick, but the kit seems to be holding up very well I've ran about 40 hours through it now with zero issues.
Thats one of the things we are not happy with. Your kit had skrs. Keenovo heater etc. This one is different. Who knows what the next ones will have.
We can never endorse something that cant keep consistent components kit to kit.
Being from australia and not having access to buying the parts locally.. im thinking it might be best to buy one of these kits and just change out a couple of the things I CAN get locally (heater, stepper motors, wiring)
27:50 I worry about PTFE wires. If something starts to melt, will it off-gas like the tubing?
Silicone is supposed to never burn, it will just melt, short, and blow the fuse.
question @Nero3d since time isn't an issue, should I go ahead and build a 0 first then tackle a 2.4?
300LSE is probably a better adhesive for the magnet and the PEI sheet TBH. LSE = low surface energy (aka plastics and paints). MP = multipurpose.
I have used both in a project at work and had to test them. LSE was significantly better on painted surfaces/oily surface in my experience. Both are good on aluminum but the limiting factor is the surface energy of the plastic/magnetic
Youre a treasure bro!!! You need more subs!!!
Old video but I am currently building a Voron 2.4 and am sourcing my own parts. Wholly mooly.
You rock man, great info. Saved me from something I didn't want to get into.
Another reason not to source one big kit priced at 1k-ish euros is that (here in nl at least) you´ll get hit with import and vat coming in around 200-300 eur extra. With smaller packages priced less than 20eur vat and import are waved. So I got like 30-40 packages. Electronics were sourced domestically and IGUS is german and the go-to in europe.
Actually "sourcing" means buying the parts piecemeal, it's the opposite of buying a complete kit. So to say that you "sourced a kit" is a contradiction in terms.
So is there a kit you would recommend? Hopefully in Canada.
This would be so good cut into clips about the components. Clip about rails, clip about wires , etc.
pls do more video, i see mostly livestreams when i am browsing your library.
Mine looks identical but my duck has a broken neck. 220v heater for NZ and Amber/gold plate
Hi, Great video. Much information. Planning to buy a 2.4 kit and upgrade it with Octopus+Octoprint.
Do you have links for the better parts that you would replace the iffy parts from this kit?
Is there a kit for afterburner you can recommend?
I received my Formbot kit a few days ago. The seller was out of SKR, so I got refunded for them, but still got 7 TMC2209 BTT packaged drivers. The Pi is delivered without a flash, so I suspect the 2 flashcards that were in your box was meant for the SKR. The part list does not mention a flashcard for the Pi. There ARE extra screws. About 3-6 in each bag (didn’t count the M3 8mm though).
Mine arrived two days ago. Same experinence like you had. The boards were missing. Also no SD Cards. But 7 Bigtreetech TMC2209 in 7 separate packages. They will send me for the missing SKRs to Spiderboard. It was my choice if spiderboard or a refund. But they didn‘t mentioned., how much the refund is. What did they offered you?
@@andreasthorsten1850 I was offered the Spider as well, but opted out. Was refunded 38 euro, but didn’t bother querying for more. Sourced BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo from Czech Republic that arrived before the Formbot kit (so now I have plenty of TMC2209’s). Frame assembled with just one thread being slightly too short (had taps, so no issue). Square within 0.5mm with zero effort or tinkering. Way better machined extrusions than my old Tevo Black Widow and on par with my favorite german extrusion pusher, Dold Mechatronik. Sourced an Asenco SSR from Germany. Too crucial a part in terms of safety.
@@andreasthorsten1850 I’ve heard of others that received TwoTreeTech boards, without any communication, so I’m satisfied to be offered a refund rather than receiving something I would probably replace.
@@StangspringDK funny, the same here. One thread was shorter than the others. Beside that, the frame looks very good and square. I changed the SSR also. Selected the Cryodom SSR and bought it from a German seller (voelkner).
@@andreasthorsten1850 Hi can you confirm that they ship the right idlers and Pulleys? Min is on the way!
But does the wire size marked on the insulation reflect reality, or are they thinner and labeled incorrectly? (Yeah, this is apparently a thing if you try going too cheap)
I'm planning on building a Voron. I've already purchased a Prusa Mini+ (not overly impressed with the printer or the support) and want to live with it for a year or so before I even embark on the Voron journey. I'm also an EE and worked in IT for years so I think I have a pretty good base to work with. I still want to view every video, read every guide and make sure I know what I'm getting into before I self-source or get an LDO kit.
My advice to all new comers is DON’T buy the kit unless you know exactly what you are getting and have substitutes on hand. Here are some of the issues with the AExprs kit. Extrusions are likely v slot instead of BOM t slot. Nero mentioned some extrusion may have larger grove, that is Blurolls kit, theirs 1mm wider and require modified STL. Chinese Crydom and Omron SSR are all fake. Many of the plate is not 0.1mm flat, mic 6 or atp 5 regardless what they say. Also, bed heater may need to be replaced with Keenovo.
Believe it or not, LDO recommends the Formbot kits until they release their own. I just bought one. But plan on "extra sourcing" some parts for my build. I don't want the cheapest kit, I just don't want to source the entire BOM.
Mine just turned up this morning , been busy and only had a quick look at it.
Only about 30min into watching this. Missed the stream cuz I was at work. Can you please share your notepad with the items that need replacing? I also bought the formbot kit with the intension of replacing what wasn't to spec.
Yeah that'd be handy
honestly if you dont have the knowledge to know what to look for from spec voron BOM list and digging into recommended manufacturer specs then a voron kit aint for you. after recieving the kit every nut and bolt needs to be measured to spec before building it from the kit as the kit might be different when you recieve it, as it all depends on whats available that day your kit gets packed. Atleast take the evening enjoy opening the kit, take every single bag out measure it and look into the spec from the BOM list. its part of the hobby. all components have links to different vendors that offer good drawings of how parts should look like. it only takes one evening to go through and double check it all.
@@sveinjohansen6271 cut the gate keeping shit and help or GTFO. The fact is you can self source and still end up with parts that dont' work right... 3d printing communities are places for people to come together and help each NOT for you to get all puffed up and strut.
@@Wingnut353 dam,, so grumpy !
@@sveinjohansen6271 I get that way when people act like scum to other people... especially those that should know better.
@nero Why not try and get with one of these companies and have an "Official" kit made?
That goes against the entire spirit of Voron and would create an unfair amount of pressure on the voron community to adopt standards and provide support. Certain individuals within the community have tried to monetize the project in the past, and it backfired. The project is now opensource with much larger community contributions then before.
It's also been shown time and again that these nameless companies that are creating these kits have no interest in providing support or any amount of quality. Hop on the discord and you'll see that nearly all the 'kits' have missing and subpar components.
So basically the kit is like those "Mystery Box!"es you can get at kid fashion/toy stores.
Wait, wasn't the SKR 1.4 just released? I'm surprised they're not making it anymore already.
Also surprised that the new spider board you mentioned (if I found the right one) is using an STM part, since they're basically impossible to find.
So creative
Hi, You are Canadian, so do I, Do you have a good place to source parts?
I buy it 2 days ago, I asked to replace the e3d v6 + raspberry 4 with a phaetus dragon high flow. I already have the raspberry in stock and they wanted to. I asked who the dragon's supplier was and it's phaetus. The board is a spider. I asked if other parts could be changed like the color of the extrusions. I also asked if a pei could be put on the back of the flexible plate.
Is there a comparable commercially available option that is really similar to the voron performance?
7:00 , exactly my kind a printer kit!
If the kits are not the best,where can I get all the parts to make one.How can you tell the difference between original and chinese ones.
Kits are a relatively new thing. The printer was designed as a self source design. So your not tied to any one vendor for components. Theres examples in the sourcing guide of known good vendors for components and also the discord has alot of community information if you have questions
@@CanuckCreator Came across the printer through the 5:20 min benchy video and It has been on my mind ever since,to get one.Someone should put a original kit together and charge a bit extra for people like me.The voron printer design is something else I have to say,the nicest printer at the moment
I weren't ready to self source. nor was i ready to put my trust in some no name kit, that's the reason why i went Rat Rig V-core and shelled out the money for a printer that was coming from their site.
Molex does make Microfit connectors with the panel mount ears, so this is not a reliable way to tell knockoffs. Example: Molex PN 436400401 has no ears, while 436400400 does have ears. (I'm not saying those in the kit are legit)
Does anybody know if there's a print it forward program for someone that wants to get parts for the VZBOT build just like the voron does? I really want to build the VZBOT. They're both pretty similar but have there differences right? I think it's the bed that's different.
They have extra length on the precut cables. This is a preference thing. I'd rather them be precut to the same length with a little extra than screw with it myself. Otherwise why are you buying a kit?
Bought a V0 kit, mainly becuase 1515 alu profile doesnt exist in the UK. waiting for it to arrive now... so much waiting...
“You do not buy a Voron. You build a Voron.”
Correction: “You wait months for each piece of a Voron; then you build a Voron.”
But this is what you get for not ordering parts for a Voron, months prior to knowing what a Voron is.
Plenty of time to hang out in the discord and learn all the tips and tricks
Hey Nero, I have experience in 3d printing owning several printers, but after watching all your videos I wanna build a voron.
I did some modding and changing things up on my other printers (Sidewinder x1, ender 3, prusa mk3s)
But Im not sure if I start to bud an voron switch wire or an voron corexy?
Whats your suggestion if you build first time a voron?
Well you have 3 bedslingers and seem to know your things, build 1.8 for relative easymode or a 2.4 for hardmode
@@malloott Agree, why build another slinger... theres nothing new to be found in the Switchwire.
@@malloott thanks, since it's my first corexy I think I go "easy mode" with the voron 1.8, what's the main difference between 1. 8 and 2.4?
@@dano.9878 check out the cad files for the whole assembly and the pdf build guides, a lot of differences small a d bog
What kit do you recommend now the link doesn’t work
Also I’d like the kit to have 14 gauge wiring I will putting a 350 watt power supply in it to power my enraged Rabbit carrot feeder and Klipper expander board if there’s no 14 gauge wiring kit what is the best way to go about wiring it is there an electrical connector kit I buy?
I have been involved in the Voron project for 3 years now and have always built my 3D printers from Prusa i3 to latest Vorons with all intermediate possible models in terms of complexity. Lately the average level of knowledge from people interested in building Vorons has dramatically felt to almost zero, especially those wandering the FB group. It is difficult to keep impatient and aggressive newbies from understanding that building such machines is not for everybody. It is good Nero took the time to explain it again... All this mainstream exposure of the Voron project is good and bad at the same time. 3D printing is an extremely vast field requiring a lot of knowledge on many technical fields (mechatronics, electronics, material science, software, coding...). I could never have managed to build a Voron without previous build experience, and I do design my own electronics (power, digital and analog) and I have worked with MCUs for 10 years. I cannot imagine someone with no previous extended technical experience jumping into such a complex project without generating immense amounts of frustration for himself.
well said! If anything, these kits will more than likely decrease the quality of the built machines, not so much due to the quality of the parts in the kits themselves, but the hands behind the assembly of said machine
Hey its been awhile
So this video gets brought up a bit now-a-days it seems, so just want to touch on some things
-At the time this video was made MANY of the kits that were popping up had issues, I mean things like missing components, completely wrong components (v slot extrusions for example), motors weaker than a dollar store RC car, wiring and other electrical issues that were straight up dangerous, etc.
So while the tone may seem a bit harsh looking back, please bear in mind the team was seeing many new builders buying kits, who didnt have much background in 3dp itself and the knowledge of components and what-not, and some were running into some pretty sever safety issues.
Now, it has been awhile, and while kits have improved, remember there are NO officially endorsed kits by the Voron Design team still.
Who offers a better kit?
Starts 3 minute 30 seconds into the recording. Scratch that, 4:50
Hello, im approaching the voron community and actually Im building something resembling switchwire from what I have already. I'm very curious about if there is upcoming a voron delta printer
There is no voron delta in the works
Is there anyone building high quality sourced vorons as a complete unit? I really want one for my shop/print farm but trying to source all the components, wading through questionable kits and building it is not really a very good solution. Super interested but I dont understand why they have made it so hard to put one together when I can buy another BUILT prusa i3 for less?
Ware do i get 3d printable models voron
Shipping oils don't need to come off...unless they have hardened or discolored, they will mix with whatever lube you use.
Soaking/ultrasonic a precision bearing is a last-ditch effort to clear a problem, not a standard 'new bearing' treatment!
The problem is. And this is something i and others have experienced. Is that many times the rails come "gritty" from the supplier. You see metal dust from cutting or grinding the rails in the carriages as its all done open air in the same location.
Even my most recent batch. Which felt pretty clean. Had a decent amount of metal grit come out in the ultra sonic bath.
so basically just find the parts youre self than buy a kit?
good review
Can anyone recommend the Blurolls kit?
man, I ordered this kit like a week ago, I'm hoping that the build plate is properly de-stressed.
If you had read the comment on aliexpress, you would sadly found there IS problem with their build plate.
Someone tried the Bluerolls kit (it is a bit expensive LDO motors, etc)? btw thx for video, won't buy it ;) Will search for another kit option ... oh! I have said "kit" again? hehehe
There's a video about that kit, search "voron bluerolls unboxing". At first sight it seems better than formbot, except that we don't know if the build plate is de-stressed and level.
anyone have the notes he took of which parts to replace from this kit? I just got mine!
Yeah me too. I heard the idler pulleys being wrong but what else
@@ryangamble5131 I contacted formbot and they said we should have the right idlers according to " Nero's video". Fast replies from them
@ formbot
It did seem like his attitude towards the kit was "guilty until proven innocent". So some of those perceived issues were not as bad as they were portrayed. All in all they were minor and I'm glad I bought the kit. Saved me a lot of effort in sourcing!
@@andonguyen7970 I am finally into my build and happy to report that I have chains with opening tops in my kit which was one thing I was worried about after watching this video. I think they may have watched this or figured out what they missed and actually tried to address any legit issues. Everything I got looks right and I'm excited to get er all put together!
Printers been running like a dream and really quiet too
Main power supply had at least 1 less capacitor per my untrained eye...
Have you seen that Clay1 on kickstarter? Just wonder you opinion on it. Not asking for a recommendation or anything, just your thoughts. :)
Just don't. You're giving money to an unknown startup run by a guy that sounds like he just graduated from high school in the hopes that a few months from now you'll get a printer nobody has reviewed.
I avoid kickstarters for a reason. Over promise. Under price. Never delivert
Yeah the last thing I backed on Kickstarter was survive the nights. I’ll never do another crowd funder again. After so many years or waiting the game is completely unplayable.
Now imagine that shitty performance and years of waiting is your printer. Would you be satisfied?
1768 is the same chip as the skr1.3
Ya. Had it mixed up with the stfm chips
"Formbot has entered the chat.
It sounds to me like there's money (at least, in big metropolitan areas) to be made in building Vorons and selling them.
You know anyone building them with quality parts? Im interested in multiple units but not if I have to build and source sketchy parts suppliers
@@massv953 I don't, unfortunately, but I suppose you should look around locally first. A fully built printer would be a pain to ship. Don't forget, also, that there are other printers available which are at least similar (Ender 7 for instance).
Very frustrated listening to this. I thought that he was going to evaluate the kit against the BOM. Instead, he makes up his evaulation criteria one item at a time. Silicone wires are a good example. The BOM says silcone. He preferes PTFE because he has access to information as part of the development group. Not really a fair comparison.
So if I can get it at a price I can't afford of course I'm going to pay a cheaper price for it
"it can be flat, but it can be curved". How can someone achieve that in 3 dimensions? Or does he talking about 4 dimensions?
😂
FIVE MINUTES AND FORTY SECONDS before you start to get to the point, you can edit that down a bit! As of the time I am writing this, this video has 56,336 views, which means that gap has cost the world collectively 5,324 hours, which is 221 days, or about 7.4 months. Come on, man... Other than that, very informative!
umm
This was a unedited livestream?
@@CanuckCreator I'm just giving you a hard time, dude. You do have a lot of great content though, it just sometimes makes it hard to find where the meat of the message is.
This guy is clearly just desperate to find fault. Starts out claiming not suitable for beginners (true), and then complains about issues that would come up only for rookie builders (e.g. lose large parts like pulleys, cut belts too short).
I get the fun but these machines feel overly complicated for a minor gain to me. I'd rather make a printer with less parts that prints a bit slower. After all the time you spent making the printer will take a while to print back 😉
sounds like a voron is not for you then ;)
slower cheaper printers exist almost pre-built, creality or flsun !
bad bubble wrap?! REFUND!
And I do not appreciate that you're bad-mouthing us who can't afford $2,000 printers
"you get what you get". If you order a 24V heat cartridge and they send you 12V by mistake... it's not even a kit... yeah, your argument is invalid.
Those panels are not the right size and are kinda shit
Did you order a formbot kit? If so what size and how out was the sizing
Ender 3 costs $200 and is made of crap, this set costs $1100 + printed parts = at least $1200 and it is still made of crap :(
I'm on disability I can't afford a $2,000 printer
You have no clue man, you have no clue.
A child could assemble a Voron.
A recurring theme in this video: they don't give you spares, or in other words, they don't give you extra parts for free.
Disappointing video from this channel.
He doesn't say they should give you spares for free. He says they should give you spares period. Even if that means the kit is more expensive. Note that he's not complaining about the price, but rather that people is attracted to these kits because of the price among other reasons.
@@DiThi When does he say they should give you extra parts period? Timestamp please.
And why or why should anyone give you extra parts. I love extra parts just as much as the next guy but I have agency, I can choose to buy a kit without extra parts or choose not to buy such a kit.
@@rollotomasi1832 You are the one that said "they don't give you extra parts for free", so you are the one that should prove he said or implied that they should be given for free. And the reason to have spare parts is because many are very small and it's easy to lose them or miscount them and cost very little. For buying a $1000 kit I would expect a few dollars spent in making sure I don't have to hunt random pieces that got lost or miscounted, or a bit extra belt to have wiggle room in case of mistakes. If you have to be ordering missing parts and waiting several more weeks it kind of defeats the purpose of having a kit.