When I do stuff like this it makes me really glad that I splurged on a 18x24" Grade A granite surface plate a while back. It's soooo much easier if you have a trusted reference surface.
Great video. I just built my Trident frame yesterday, but fortunately I've already picked up these tips from your live streams. The techniques were invaluable to making sure the frame is square.
I recently put together a Trident and one of the most annoying parts with the frame was in the beginning where the assembly manual lays out all lengths of extrusion and then assigns a letter to each, but only for a 250mm build. You should really put all 3 common lengths because some extrusions are the same size and some are not and it's really hard to tell what is what if you are new to building Vorons.
Minute 09:55 : I tested all LDO extrusions and different surfaces for mounting but I always have a small gab between the to bottoim profiles. Sometimes it's not because surface. Also the Extrusions canm be a little bit curved! And you can put it on the non flatted surface. It will not change the gabs like at 09:55. Try it at put something under the extrusion and than test it on flat surface. The gab will be the same. The sense for flat good surfaces is only to get at the end a similar result for all corners.
Subbing to your channel was the single best thing I have done for my 3D printing adventures... You go in to so much detail and answer question I have before I knew I had them! Cheers to you!
Hello! great video here! about inset pieces of extrusions, rather than measure with the calipers, a good solution is to use a stop block. You can cut, machine or 3D print a part that will butt against another part, and have the correct length to space out your inset extrusion. If your stop block is not the exact length, it is often not a big deal, provided you use the same stop block on both sides that have to be inset the same distance. Thus even with a slight error in the length, your inset extrusion will be square to the sides, and parallel to the front for instance. I think that using gigs is often a good idea to help with such tasks!
Very useful video. One additional suggestion that Steve Builds uses is to add washers to the buttonhead screws in the blind joints. It reduces torquing and improves the accuracy of assembly. Also using a thicker woodworker's aluminum square works better to clamp the extrusions than the thin machinists square.
Very well put together video, sir! One tip though. The pointy end of the caliper works great for measuring hole depth. When measuring edge offsets it can be hard to ensure it remains perpendicular, potentially compromising accuracy. If you use the other end with the inside of the extended piece flat against your outer surface, the flat end can be used for alignment. Works a lot better!
Quick release c clamps are very helpful as well when ensuring the sides are flush when doing the final tightening. clamp together with another extrusion instead of the machinist square
This video is a great place to start before assembly with excellent tips. My 2.4 blue frame kit arrived yesterday and I will be building up on my SawStop table saw that has precision ground surfaces. Thanks for the helpful insights!
Glad to see someone cover this in-depth. It seems to be overlooked quite often. I have a large granite surface plate that comes in handy for assembly. Never really thought what a “normal” person would use for a reference surface.
If only he actually showed how to square. I get it, he has good hands and he can build it square, but just for the tutorial's sake, he should have made it little off square.
Hi Nero 3D, i had a question. does it matter if i change te sizes? like 300 by 300 by 400 mm frame. or smaller? and can you print with 2 kinds of filaments?
thanks for this video. is there a good time and way to apply screw lock to the screws without throwing the geometry off again? - like, when the XY-axis is installed that may hold the frame in place?
I for one do love these "short" little tutorials! Don't get me wrong your 3 plus hour long videos are probably interesting and i would love to have the time to watch them.. But this format helps me digest the information in small chunks ;) Thanks for all your vids tho! i really appreciate the information you share!! Can't wait to get started with my own build! I will probably sit down with one of your longer videos for that tho lol
I drilled and tapped my V-Core 3 extrusions for use of blind joints, just for ease of squaring the frame until the corner plates lock everything up square. With only corner plates it's a lot more difficult.
Quick correction! That’s not a vernier caliper that’s digital caliper not to be confused with a dial caliper. A vernier just has its measurements cut or printed onto the arm.
good video. Is it normal for the frame to have a slight baby wobble? When I have it on my table a certain way it wobbles slightly but I have not been able to get it more perfect than this after spending HOURS trying to, just wondering if this is normal
Start by using belts that are equal length before installing them, with equal amounts of "extra" belt after tightening and before trimming, then if still racked, adjust tension to correct. ruclips.net/video/cOn6u9kXvy0/видео.html
No matter how many times I try and how I try, I end up with a slightly wobbly frame. I built on a glass surface as recommended by voron, and am using a machinists square. Kind of pondering buying a whole new frame. Has anyone tried slightly cutting their extrusions to fix this?
Not that it really matters, but why do you keep calling digital calipers, Vernier calipers? While I did have a couple of Vernier calipers(24, 36 inch), they were pretty much replaced by dial calipers. With the dial calipers being replaced with digital ones(still reluctant to give up my good Etalon dial calipers).
Slightly disappointing to see another video that says "You want your frame to be perfectly square" and shows a frame being built in ideal conditions (known flat surface, high-quality frame kit, machinist's square, etc.). For the people looking this up in a crisis, it's a bit like the "how to draw an owl" meme. It would be much more helpful to dive deeper into *how* to fix a non-square frame with the methods you simply glossed over (filing/shimming). I don't mean to be a downer, I love your content and have watched dozens of hours of your channel. You're a legit asset to the community. This just seems like a missed opportunity, honestly.
I did not enjoy it. You did not explain what to do when the extrusions do not come out square -- all you said is that "it might be fine that it's not square, and in the cases where it's not, just make sure it is square". I have not learned anything :-(
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
When I do stuff like this it makes me really glad that I splurged on a 18x24" Grade A granite surface plate a while back. It's soooo much easier if you have a trusted reference surface.
Great video. I just built my Trident frame yesterday, but fortunately I've already picked up these tips from your live streams. The techniques were invaluable to making sure the frame is square.
I recently put together a Trident and one of the most annoying parts with the frame was in the beginning where the assembly manual lays out all lengths of extrusion and then assigns a letter to each, but only for a 250mm build. You should really put all 3 common lengths because some extrusions are the same size and some are not and it's really hard to tell what is what if you are new to building Vorons.
This was one of the most confusing parts of my 300m build. It would be a great addition.
Minute 09:55 : I tested all LDO extrusions and different surfaces for mounting but I always have a small gab between the to bottoim profiles. Sometimes it's not because surface. Also the Extrusions canm be a little bit curved! And you can put it on the non flatted surface. It will not change the gabs like at 09:55. Try it at put something under the extrusion and than test it on flat surface. The gab will be the same. The sense for flat good surfaces is only to get at the end a similar result for all corners.
Subbing to your channel was the single best thing I have done for my 3D printing adventures... You go in to so much detail and answer question I have before I knew I had them! Cheers to you!
Hello! great video here!
about inset pieces of extrusions, rather than measure with the calipers, a good solution is to use a stop block. You can cut, machine or 3D print a part that will butt against another part, and have the correct length to space out your inset extrusion. If your stop block is not the exact length, it is often not a big deal, provided you use the same stop block on both sides that have to be inset the same distance. Thus even with a slight error in the length, your inset extrusion will be square to the sides, and parallel to the front for instance.
I think that using gigs is often a good idea to help with such tasks!
Very useful video. One additional suggestion that Steve Builds uses is to add washers to the buttonhead screws in the blind joints. It reduces torquing and improves the accuracy of assembly. Also using a thicker woodworker's aluminum square works better to clamp the extrusions than the thin machinists square.
Very well put together video, sir! One tip though. The pointy end of the caliper works great for measuring hole depth. When measuring edge offsets it can be hard to ensure it remains perpendicular, potentially compromising accuracy. If you use the other end with the inside of the extended piece flat against your outer surface, the flat end can be used for alignment. Works a lot better!
that grey looks amazing!
Thank you!!! I start my build this Thursday and im feeling confident thanks to your videos!
Any tips on properly tightening the M5 bolts? (how much torque, type of threadlock, etc)
I plan on putting a tiny dot of blue Loctite on each frame screw so if I decide to crank up the acceleration it won't shake apart.
+1 for Space Grey!
Quick release c clamps are very helpful as well when ensuring the sides are flush when doing the final tightening. clamp together with another extrusion instead of the machinist square
Ever use 123 blocks? I find them quite handy for smaller printers.
awesome video! appreciated the techniques.
I sincerly hope that the LDO V2.4 kit build is going to be a video-series in easily digestable parts - keep up the great work!
This video is a great place to start before assembly with excellent tips. My 2.4 blue frame kit arrived yesterday and I will be building up on my SawStop table saw that has precision ground surfaces. Thanks for the helpful insights!
Glad to see someone cover this in-depth. It seems to be overlooked quite often.
I have a large granite surface plate that comes in handy for assembly. Never really thought what a “normal” person would use for a reference surface.
If only he actually showed how to square. I get it, he has good hands and he can build it square, but just for the tutorial's sake, he should have made it little off square.
You can also start to measure at 1, from your tape measure, since the actual digit doesn"t matter, but just if there are any differences.
Oh, I most certainly "like that smash button" (17:18) :D thanks for the great video!
Thank you for sharing your expertise. These videos are very helpful and very much appreciated.
Hi Nero 3D, i had a question. does it matter if i change te sizes? like 300 by 300 by 400 mm frame. or smaller? and can you print with 2 kinds of filaments?
123 Blocks can be very helpful when building a frame too.
great explanation! 👏
thanks for this video. is there a good time and way to apply screw lock to the screws without throwing the geometry off again? - like, when the XY-axis is installed that may hold the frame in place?
I for one do love these "short" little tutorials! Don't get me wrong your 3 plus hour long videos are probably interesting and i would love to have the time to watch them.. But this format helps me digest the information in small chunks ;) Thanks for all your vids tho! i really appreciate the information you share!! Can't wait to get started with my own build! I will probably sit down with one of your longer videos for that tho lol
I drilled and tapped my V-Core 3 extrusions for use of blind joints, just for ease of squaring the frame until the corner plates lock everything up square. With only corner plates it's a lot more difficult.
How tight do you tighten those bolts once you’ve made sure everything is square? Do they provide torque specs when building?
I am pouring my coffee now
Question: Should I be using threadlocker on my frame screws. LDO Voron 2.4 r2 350mm Kit. Thanks
It looks like you barely tighten the bolts. Do you do a final tightening off camera or is that all the torque that you apply?
Great guide and love that frame color LDO!
Hi, could you tell the diameter of the holes in the B Extrusion?
Is there any benefit to put blue thread lock on the frame bolts?
Thank you for making these videos!
Hi Nero. Thanks for your useful videos, you do very good work! Is there somewhere a cutting template for the sticker under your Voron 0.1 bed?
Wonderful. Thank you! Absorbing knowledge before building my V2 :)
@nero
What if my extrusions are corkscrewed ?
Sounds like you need to send them back and get new ones from a reputable place like LDO pr Misumi.
Quick correction! That’s not a vernier caliper that’s digital caliper not to be confused with a dial caliper. A vernier just has its measurements cut or printed onto the arm.
Great video otherwise :)
good video. Is it normal for the frame to have a slight baby wobble? When I have it on my table a certain way it wobbles slightly but I have not been able to get it more perfect than this after spending HOURS trying to, just wondering if this is normal
Man I just got lucky I think on my V0. What about the gantry being equal on both sides with belt tension. That’s way harder to do
Start by using belts that are equal length before installing them, with equal amounts of "extra" belt after tightening and before trimming, then if still racked, adjust tension to correct.
ruclips.net/video/cOn6u9kXvy0/видео.html
Lol, I love the difference between your videos and live streams! Great video!
Very helpful thank you
I wouldn't mind if you demonstrated filing/shimming bc i'm a total knob
To check the squareness(?) you could just use a lenght of wire or a some non flexible string.
I really wish I had watched this before I started my build
It's hip to be square!
If all teachers were like you, there were no stupid kids.
I subscribed and liked the smash button.
No matter how many times I try and how I try, I end up with a slightly wobbly frame. I built on a glass surface as recommended by voron, and am using a machinists square. Kind of pondering buying a whole new frame. Has anyone tried slightly cutting their extrusions to fix this?
Digital calipers are the best ( I can use them without reading glases)
Not that it really matters, but why do you keep calling digital calipers, Vernier calipers? While I did have a couple of Vernier calipers(24, 36 inch), they were pretty much replaced by dial calipers. With the dial calipers being replaced with digital ones(still reluctant to give up my good Etalon dial calipers).
Perhaps worked at a machine shop around old people.
I knew the V0 was small, but I never realized how small until he picked it up lol.
Slightly disappointing to see another video that says "You want your frame to be perfectly square" and shows a frame being built in ideal conditions (known flat surface, high-quality frame kit, machinist's square, etc.). For the people looking this up in a crisis, it's a bit like the "how to draw an owl" meme. It would be much more helpful to dive deeper into *how* to fix a non-square frame with the methods you simply glossed over (filing/shimming). I don't mean to be a downer, I love your content and have watched dozens of hours of your channel. You're a legit asset to the community. This just seems like a missed opportunity, honestly.
man this shouldv'e been like the very first tutorial you make...
I Liked that smash button
I assume that this was a stream and nero painfully cut down everything, even if it was good
thx
Then there is me, building my ender 5 plus on the carpet with yolo torque on the bolts.
I did not enjoy it. You did not explain what to do when the extrusions do not come out square -- all you said is that "it might be fine that it's not square, and in the cases where it's not, just make sure it is square". I have not learned anything :-(
Shim or recut extrusions are really your only options. If your extrusions are not square your options are pretty limited.
hii
I don't have any extremely flat countertop to buold on but my wife's chest should work.
Lmao, canadian thinks you need a bridgeport to cut some aluminum. Hahahhaha. And to think that they gloat that they never lost a war.
LMAO, americans think they have functional govt and healthcare, how was Vietnam btw? :P