I kinda wish the Review would have taken into consideration the speed a bit more because its a very fast printer. There are already a bunch of comments wondering about the price but this printer can print 3-5x as fast as other printers in its style or even price range. 18min, quality benchy, not a weird looking speed benchy, is what I would consider the default speed for a well tuned V-Minion. If you want to go even faster I also printed a 24min, 200% Benchy on this before and it still looked decent. That was at the limits what 24V steppers can do with around 40,000 acceleration and close to 500mm/s print speed, maxing out at 65mm³/2 flowrate. Its fast, its reliable and very open for modifications, especially thanks to EVA.
I built my V-Core3 together with Albert from 247printing, and I totally get your point about the nut pockets. In the end, we used a soldering iron for some nuts, but it feels somehow wrong if it's not an insert. Just recently, about one year later, we discussed the build experience of the V-Core3, and that was the main critique. Once built, the machine does an excellent job. It would be great if RR would increase the tolerances for the pockets on their 3D-printed parts.
I double that! RatRigs are great, but they (still) don’t have the best designs for enjoyable build experience 😢 The V2.4 was the absolute super joy to build in comparison.
With looser tolerances, they'll just fall out at the most inopportune moments instead. Luckily EVA 3 comes with a heat insert variant, so this is less of an issue if you print the parts yourself :)
Honestly hate trapped nuts in 3D-prints. Heat inserts is just so very reliable and looks better, and honestly not very expensive. Well worth it imo. Especially for a machine that already requires crimping tools and so on. Might as well just require a soldering iron with some heat-press tips.
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing. I've built my own Minion just few days ago and it is an awesome machine. Wow. Really kinda tank. Massive. Good quality parts. I fully agree to our comments on the nut pockets and the swapped wiring for the end stops. The latter really being a big and unnecessary risk to damage the board. My Minion came with an Octopus v1.1 board which is a solid good quality one. The little electronic box becomes a bit noisy during operation. I swapped the compartment fan by a Noctua 40x15 which is much quieter and still blows enough air in. Overall a pretty loud printer, but printing quality is impressive as is the printing speed. Works great with SuperSlicer and Prusa Slicer. I am very happy having purchased this little beast. I think, my next printer will be most likely the V-Core 3.1 ...
if you put the nuts on a soldering iron tip around 250c, lit it set to warm up and then push into the hole. it prevents the plastic potentially cracking as well. the screw is what holds the nut in place, the insert is there so you dont need to use a wrench/spanner. love your videos!!!!!
Another typically solid & informative video. When your twitter handle pops up and makes that noise, I always stop the video and try to find out what made that noise. EVERY. DANG. TIME. Check every browser tab. Check my phone. Then I remember.
Been doing some work on my Ender 2 Pro and was really wondering what a high-end cantelever printer would look like. Well, this is it! wiring seems like a PITA, but name a printer where that isn't the case!
Nero3d did a mod for it, where all the electronics is beneath the bed, but you will need different components like a passive cooled psu and a skr pico, otherwise you dont have enough space
i suppose it's bigger than a voron 0.1 but ngl the price is quite steep for a cantilever though if it's as rigid as you say it is, i guess that just means less point of failure
Based on the footage shown it looks less rigid than virtually any dual Z lead screw machine. Probably stiffer than a single leadscrew Ender 3 though. I really like cantilever printers now, but even when way overbuilt as this one is, they are still kind of flexible by comparison.
Looks great. I have been looking for a smaller printer like this, but while the other similar ones are cheaper, they all seem to have issues including this one with the wiring issues that while annoying is manageable. I really want a printer that will print PLA and ABS which is a catch 22 as the printer kits come with PETG. My current printer, a heavily modified Ender 3 Pro that no longer prints PLA after adding a Microswiss all metal hotend and direct drive. It clogs when printing with PLA. Still, this printer looks good and I am definitely going to look it a bit more. A bit pricey though. I would be more likely to buy it if it came with either ABS or ASA printed parts. It would be great if MatterHacker were to sell aluminum parts instead of the plastic parts like they do for the Voron 0.1 and 2.4.
Wiha, if I'm thinking of the right wiha, is a very good company. they've been in the high voltage industry longer than my grandparents have been alive and I have a ton of their tools handed down to me from my dad's college days in the 70s. I trust the hell out of them and if that psu is from them it will probably beat out any other
What kind of print speeds can we expect from this unit. My ender 3v2 is leaving me wanting. I print parts off this thing 30 hours a week, and its slow lol
You printed PETG on the textured PEI sheets? My experience with that the PETG will adhere too well to the PEI texturing and often rip it off or chunk it out when trying to remove it from the plate.
I recently bought two PEI sheets. The first one PLA stuck so bad I needed a razor blade to get it off. Second one PLA popped off so easy I was stunned. So it greatly depends on your sheet
It's a cool printer no doubt. Why on earth ar they shipping PETG parts that's insane. I think after looking at the sheer size and mess it leaves on the desk I am glad I went with a V0.1 (well actually 2 x voron 0.1s) and both take up less space than the vminion!) I love what they've done with customising the OS Voron really need to take note there as the procedure for getting klipper etc installed on a voron is just ridiculously unnecessarily "manual". There should be no need to install obscure 90s software like putty or winscp in the year 2022.
Hi! The Voron team and community are more than welcome to help adding support for their printers to RatOS, it's completely open source and it has always been the plan to expand it to third party printers. We already have V0.1 and V2.4 support in development thanks to an awesome community member (Shoutout to Heisenberg19x). Thanks for the kind words :)
Without any information about you, what you do with it, and what printers you've already used, it's just very worthless information, unfortunately. Like 'Chén somewhere from Asia wrote: Best car I've ever driven.'
@@darththuban00 I personally consider the ender 3 the baseline for hobby printers due to it's low cost and vast options of aftermarket modifications giving the end user the ability to modify the machine into a more professional set up if so desired. Ender 3, sonic pad, all metal hot end, would that not perform similar to this machine for a lower cost?
@@biggboysouth No way it will perform similar to a minion. Look at the components of the minion, the quality of the steppers, hotend, extruder etc. etc. If you want to know how an Ender with Klipper will perform look at biqu hurakan.
@@darththuban00 That is a solid point and honestly since my original comment I've come to understand the pros of a factory upgraded printer. For me I struggle to see the price justification of this printer specifically. Just seems a bit high for what it is, needing so much user assembling, pieces made out of printed parts (not greatest for enclosure use) and being smaller build volume. For $100 more you can get a Bambu labs P1P which is one heck of a machine readily assembled and awesome company and community support. For $300 less you can get a ender 3 and sonic pad which isn't as fast but certainly respectable for a hobby printer and a much easier to stomach entry price. If this V minion was something like $450 I'd say it was a killer deal but at $600 plus seems a bit steep. But to each their own just my 2 cents. I honestly was interested in this printer for a dedicated small PETG machine but the price put me off. Ended up just saving for Bambu X1C. Really is as good as all the reviews say it is. Nearly perfect default material profiles.
It's when your wires are ordered incorrectly compared to the motherboard socket. The endstop has a JST connector which can plug only in one way, so a user will think it's correctly set up for the motherboard For example your endstop has three wires in this order VCC - GND - SIG and the motherboard has a socket that accepts GND - SIG - VCC If you just plug it as is the mb will send current through the wrong wires, which I suppose will make it short out and die. What ModBot suggested is to have the endstop shipped without the connector, so the user has to check the wire ordering on the mb and install the connector properly
Kinda lame that it has a separate power supply/control box. For that money, it should be all in 1 machine, or at least have an external power brick but have all the other controls under the printer.
@@ModBotArmy I would just want it all without the printed parts. I've got plenty of printers that would have no problem printing them in a color that I'd like more. It seems like a waste of their time to print some and send them to someone who won't use them.
@@morbus5726 True, but the Voron 0.1 and others like it is easier to enclose for filaments such as ABS. I do like the build volume of 180mm though vs only 120mm for the Voron. I don't have a lot of space so something that is easily enclosed like the Voron 0.1 is a better option for me despite the smaller build area.
It’s worth it. Most of the time the build volume is sufficient. Maybe not the best option if you don’t have another printer, but it’s a joy to use and can be pushed (especially with a few mods) to go very fast.
@@morbus5726 higher than that with a few mods (like an LDO-42STH48-2504AC on the y-axis). I've been printing at 60k, and can hit 800mm/s for a bed-sided test print. My Dragonfly BMO with CHT nozzle can't keep up, so I'm looking at a hot end upgrade (I've been waiting for the promised high flow Revo nozzles).
There is a scammer targeting subscribers with regards to winning the items shown in the video, they message you saying to text them on the number included in their username to sort the win out. This must be a scam!!
I kinda wish the Review would have taken into consideration the speed a bit more because its a very fast printer.
There are already a bunch of comments wondering about the price but this printer can print 3-5x as fast as other printers in its style or even price range.
18min, quality benchy, not a weird looking speed benchy, is what I would consider the default speed for a well tuned V-Minion.
If you want to go even faster I also printed a 24min, 200% Benchy on this before and it still looked decent.
That was at the limits what 24V steppers can do with around 40,000 acceleration and close to 500mm/s print speed, maxing out at 65mm³/2 flowrate.
Its fast, its reliable and very open for modifications, especially thanks to EVA.
I built my V-Core3 together with Albert from 247printing, and I totally get your point about the nut pockets. In the end, we used a soldering iron for some nuts, but it feels somehow wrong if it's not an insert. Just recently, about one year later, we discussed the build experience of the V-Core3, and that was the main critique. Once built, the machine does an excellent job. It would be great if RR would increase the tolerances for the pockets on their 3D-printed parts.
I double that!
RatRigs are great, but they (still) don’t have the best designs for enjoyable build experience 😢
The V2.4 was the absolute super joy to build in comparison.
With looser tolerances, they'll just fall out at the most inopportune moments instead. Luckily EVA 3 comes with a heat insert variant, so this is less of an issue if you print the parts yourself :)
Nut pockets
@UCVVJ4YkRgPpk6jpb0XVgWtQ Nut pockets is just a fun thing to say. I'm 5 years old.
Honestly hate trapped nuts in 3D-prints. Heat inserts is just so very reliable and looks better, and honestly not very expensive. Well worth it imo. Especially for a machine that already requires crimping tools and so on. Might as well just require a soldering iron with some heat-press tips.
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing. I've built my own Minion just few days ago and it is an awesome machine. Wow. Really kinda tank. Massive. Good quality parts. I fully agree to our comments on the nut pockets and the swapped wiring for the end stops. The latter really being a big and unnecessary risk to damage the board. My Minion came with an Octopus v1.1 board which is a solid good quality one. The little electronic box becomes a bit noisy during operation. I swapped the compartment fan by a Noctua 40x15 which is much quieter and still blows enough air in. Overall a pretty loud printer, but printing quality is impressive as is the printing speed. Works great with SuperSlicer and Prusa Slicer. I am very happy having purchased this little beast. I think, my next printer will be most likely the V-Core 3.1 ...
if you put the nuts on a soldering iron tip around 250c, lit it set to warm up and then push into the hole. it prevents the plastic potentially cracking as well. the screw is what holds the nut in place, the insert is there so you dont need to use a wrench/spanner.
love your videos!!!!!
Excellent review. I agree with everything you said here. It’s a good printer to mod too.
The print quality looks fantastic! I'll be interested to see how the new KP3S V2 performs with linear rails on all axis and stock klipper!
I've got to look into this one. It looks so interesting!
Great reviews like always 😊👍
The toolhead is so pretty, I want it on my Ender
Interesting machine. I have been looking a lot at that one and the Voron 0.1. Still have not quite yet decided...
I really wish they sold these kits with the Electronics and Mecahnics, no Raspberry Pi and no printed parts
Another typically solid & informative video.
When your twitter handle pops up and makes that noise, I always stop the video and try to find out what made that noise. EVERY. DANG. TIME. Check every browser tab. Check my phone. Then I remember.
I have a mk2 with 16,000 hours on it and it has been in an enclosure it's whole life. The PETG prints are still holding up just fine.
Back then, I am pretty sure they printed them in ABS. You can confirm if it is ABS by bending a part and if it shows white stress marks, it is ABS.
Been doing some work on my Ender 2 Pro and was really wondering what a high-end cantelever printer would look like. Well, this is it! wiring seems like a PITA, but name a printer where that isn't the case!
You have received the same message as me on another video, this must be a scam, do you have any idea who is doing this?
How long is the PSU to printer connection? I mean, the allover footprint to bed size ratio looks horrible in the video.
Nero3d did a mod for it, where all the electronics is beneath the bed, but you will need different components like a passive cooled psu and a skr pico, otherwise you dont have enough space
You aren't wrong.
This is a great video with really important tips and advice. What’s the dome door model at 9:23 ?
Great vid
Sweet!
i suppose it's bigger than a voron 0.1 but ngl the price is quite steep for a cantilever
though if it's as rigid as you say it is, i guess that just means less point of failure
Based on the footage shown it looks less rigid than virtually any dual Z lead screw machine. Probably stiffer than a single leadscrew Ender 3 though.
I really like cantilever printers now, but even when way overbuilt as this one is, they are still kind of flexible by comparison.
I went with can bus on my build made my life much easier
Cool!
just bacause of the formfaxtor and enclosed buildspace id go with a voron 0.2 over this
Defo on my shortlist. But honestly that end switch issue is something they need to address
Great video
Thank you 😊🙏
Looks great. I have been looking for a smaller printer like this, but while the other similar ones are cheaper, they all seem to have issues including this one with the wiring issues that while annoying is manageable. I really want a printer that will print PLA and ABS which is a catch 22 as the printer kits come with PETG. My current printer, a heavily modified Ender 3 Pro that no longer prints PLA after adding a Microswiss all metal hotend and direct drive. It clogs when printing with PLA. Still, this printer looks good and I am definitely going to look it a bit more. A bit pricey though. I would be more likely to buy it if it came with either ABS or ASA printed parts. It would be great if MatterHacker were to sell aluminum parts instead of the plastic parts like they do for the Voron 0.1 and 2.4.
KP3S Pro my man
@@walkdontrunplz lame belt management and screen
@@urgamecshk cool
Wiha, if I'm thinking of the right wiha, is a very good company. they've been in the high voltage industry longer than my grandparents have been alive and I have a ton of their tools handed down to me from my dad's college days in the 70s. I trust the hell out of them and if that psu is from them it will probably beat out any other
I think it's weha or weho, not the wiha you're familiar with, tool wise.
What kind of print speeds can we expect from this unit. My ender 3v2 is leaving me wanting. I print parts off this thing 30 hours a week, and its slow lol
Thoughts on this vs Prusa Mini? And throw a KP3S (?) into the mix?
You printed PETG on the textured PEI sheets? My experience with that the PETG will adhere too well to the PEI texturing and often rip it off or chunk it out when trying to remove it from the plate.
I recently bought two PEI sheets. The first one PLA stuck so bad I needed a razor blade to get it off. Second one PLA popped off so easy I was stunned. So it greatly depends on your sheet
How would you compare it to a v0.2 seeing as they’re priced similar and have similar sizing.
It's a Pringtrbot style printer. Guess the design stuck around longer than the company that made it.
Lmao, I can only watch this video in 360p or "1080p enhanced bitrate". So without youtube premium, I'm out of luck.
Impressive! But $600 for the full kit feels kinda steep for me. Still, looks fun.
Especially with PLA printed parts supplied.
@@ferrumignis Oof, PLA? I would hope PETG at least like the Prusas
@@ferrumignis its petg...
would be nice if you focused more on the speeds this machine can print at. A stock v minion can hit crazy speeds, 400mm/s at over 30k accel.
a keyed jst connector would solve the wiring issue.
It's a cool printer no doubt. Why on earth ar they shipping PETG parts that's insane. I think after looking at the sheer size and mess it leaves on the desk I am glad I went with a V0.1 (well actually 2 x voron 0.1s) and both take up less space than the vminion!) I love what they've done with customising the OS Voron really need to take note there as the procedure for getting klipper etc installed on a voron is just ridiculously unnecessarily "manual". There should be no need to install obscure 90s software like putty or winscp in the year 2022.
Hi! The Voron team and community are more than welcome to help adding support for their printers to RatOS, it's completely open source and it has always been the plan to expand it to third party printers. We already have V0.1 and V2.4 support in development thanks to an awesome community member (Shoutout to Heisenberg19x). Thanks for the kind words :)
Honestly this by far has been the best quality and most reliable printer I have used.
Without any information about you, what you do with it, and what printers you've already used, it's just very worthless information, unfortunately.
Like 'Chén somewhere from Asia wrote: Best car I've ever driven.'
@@tmartin9482 must have been an r32 gtr.
You know, Chen.
So what's the benefit of one of these over an ender 3? Just that it's smaller?
An ender? Really? Wtf
@@darththuban00 I personally consider the ender 3 the baseline for hobby printers due to it's low cost and vast options of aftermarket modifications giving the end user the ability to modify the machine into a more professional set up if so desired. Ender 3, sonic pad, all metal hot end, would that not perform similar to this machine for a lower cost?
@@biggboysouth No way it will perform similar to a minion. Look at the components of the minion, the quality of the steppers, hotend, extruder etc. etc. If you want to know how an Ender with Klipper will perform look at biqu hurakan.
@@darththuban00 That is a solid point and honestly since my original comment I've come to understand the pros of a factory upgraded printer. For me I struggle to see the price justification of this printer specifically. Just seems a bit high for what it is, needing so much user assembling, pieces made out of printed parts (not greatest for enclosure use) and being smaller build volume. For $100 more you can get a Bambu labs P1P which is one heck of a machine readily assembled and awesome company and community support. For $300 less you can get a ender 3 and sonic pad which isn't as fast but certainly respectable for a hobby printer and a much easier to stomach entry price.
If this V minion was something like $450 I'd say it was a killer deal but at $600 plus seems a bit steep. But to each their own just my 2 cents. I honestly was interested in this printer for a dedicated small PETG machine but the price put me off. Ended up just saving for Bambu X1C. Really is as good as all the reviews say it is. Nearly perfect default material profiles.
I’d be all over it if it came even semi assembled. Not into building and entire printer from scratch.
What do you mean, please - incorrect endstop wiring?
It's when your wires are ordered incorrectly compared to the motherboard socket. The endstop has a JST connector which can plug only in one way, so a user will think it's correctly set up for the motherboard
For example your endstop has three wires in this order VCC - GND - SIG
and the motherboard has a socket that accepts GND - SIG - VCC
If you just plug it as is the mb will send current through the wrong wires, which I suppose will make it short out and die. What ModBot suggested is to have the endstop shipped without the connector, so the user has to check the wire ordering on the mb and install the connector properly
Tertime Cetus released 7 years ago: Am I a joke to you?
Kinda lame that it has a separate power supply/control box. For that money, it should be all in 1 machine, or at least have an external power brick but have all the other controls under the printer.
I shorted my optical endstops somehow when replacing my old board for a new skr3... sensorless homing it is then.... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I wish there was a way to get it without the 3D printed parts. I'd love to save some money on them and get them in a better color.
That’s what the mechanical kit is for? Or do you mean you want it all but a small discount not get the printed parts.
@@ModBotArmy I would just want it all without the printed parts. I've got plenty of printers that would have no problem printing them in a color that I'd like more. It seems like a waste of their time to print some and send them to someone who won't use them.
@@ModBotArmy it would really be a win-win to get it without the printed parts. I save money, they save printing time!
To be honest, the footprint of the machine is just too large when you take into consideration how small the print bed is.
There's not much small about this printer... it looks like it take up as much desk area as an ender 3.
@@mattmichael2441 correct, its too large was my point.
A bit pricey for such a small printer. I would rather buy a Voron 0.1.
its also bigger and faster than a v0...
@@morbus5726 True, but the Voron 0.1 and others like it is easier to enclose for filaments such as ABS. I do like the build volume of 180mm though vs only 120mm for the Voron. I don't have a lot of space so something that is easily enclosed like the Voron 0.1 is a better option for me despite the smaller build area.
600 dollars for a mini printer?
It’s worth it. Most of the time the build volume is sufficient. Maybe not the best option if you don’t have another printer, but it’s a joy to use and can be pushed (especially with a few mods) to go very fast.
it's also capable of printing 500mm/s at 40k accel stock
@@morbus5726 higher than that with a few mods (like an LDO-42STH48-2504AC on the y-axis). I've been printing at 60k, and can hit 800mm/s for a bed-sided test print. My Dragonfly BMO with CHT nozzle can't keep up, so I'm looking at a hot end upgrade (I've been waiting for the promised high flow Revo nozzles).
Third
There is a scammer targeting subscribers with regards to winning the items shown in the video, they message you saying to text them on the number included in their username to sort the win out. This must be a scam!!
They should all be gone now :). Thank you for letting me know.
Charging customers that much money and then asking them to assemble the thing…. Just buy a kingroon kp3s pro s1 and call it a day.
Way over priced.
And of course bambu copied it except made it uglier.
This printer is way too expensive for what it is. 700 dollars, and its a glorified ender2
The ender 2 is a glorified Monoprice select mini.
ruclips.net/video/cSZrqgLj3ag/видео.html
First Comment
Who
I mean, it better be a tank for 600 bucks. You can buy 2 A1 minis for that price.
tf am i gone to print with that little bitty pos action figures?
What do you print helmets? 180mmx180mm covers probably 95% of any of the functional parts I would need.
@@ModBotArmy I print test fixtures for catheters
@@cavitycreep screen name checks out..