Thank you for these explanations! They will even help me to build my RatRig v-Core Pro. Learning how to work with these extrusion profiles is universally valuable :)
Thank you for the very helpful video. I'd be interested in seeing a video about squaring a frame with blind joints. What issues you might run into that would throw it out of square and how to deal with them.
The hammerhead tnuts arnt too bad once you get the hang of them. You almost get a feel for it. I just wind them backwards before winding them in and they almost always bite. Sometimes tilting the frame your screwing it into can help too.
I see an issue. You need to fix the filament spool roller, it pulls and does weird things on the ptfe tube during the video trying to spin ..a polished tube there and you probably get a better retraction and feed. The profiles though are not chinese ( but could beeen made there) but a different profile standard.. there is several for 20x20 and you only got two there, there are also narrow track and different corners. Anyway it was a nice mount video.
I'm making a dry box out of a 21 cup Rubbermaid container and found a top which would allow me to NOT drill holes in the container; however, it's 241mm long and I can't print it. Perhaps the 250mm build would work, and I read some people on discord saying they wish they'd built 250 rather than 350, but I've a large workshop so size isn't an issue for me. That said, is the cost for 350 much more than 250 and does it print as well? What do you think about 350 vs 250?
Brilliant - I'm building a 1.6 - any chance you could mention which bits of the video are applicable (to the 1.6), I realise a whole series dedicated to the 1.6 would be asking too much...
So while this series is focused on the v2. I am keeping it as generalized as possible for future proofing against design changes. Alot of the components for the v1 and v2 are common. So I may just do a single small video on the v1 centric items down the line.
I'm looking to get my first 3D printer. I'm wondering whether I should build something like this versus paying $800 for a Prusa MK3S. FWIW - I've build a 8020 workbench, have plenty of tools including dial indicators, etc. What do you think ... is this something which would give me more for the same money ... what would you do?
In my opinion, the voron v2, and even the v1, runs rings around the pursa. The prusa is a turnkey solution though, while the voron is fully self sourced and built DIY It all depends how much time and money your willing to invest, a v1 is 4-600, v2 is 1000-1200
Hi two questions as im looking at this design for my next printer. You said we cannot go above 350, however im needing 400mm+ (ideally 500mm) what problems are you seeing that prevents that size? Also when will step files be available so that i can mill these parts instead of printing them?
CAD is available on the voron design website/github Beyond 350mm corexy belt runs get quite long and can lead to demised performance and isnt recommended
Given how narrow the mgn9 rails are why were they used instead of mgn12 rails? Especially given the lip on the chinese 2020's i(which is what I have) t seems lilke 12mm would have been a better choice.
9mm is used due to size constraints, due to the way the printer is designed the carriage cannot be wider than the extrusions themselves, for examples, the enclosure panels would not be able to be mounted directly to the frame if the 4 Z carriages stuck out past the frame.
I was interested in constructing this printer for a while, until I discovered there are a substantial number of 3D printed parts required . . . Fine I guess if you already have a 3D printer or have access to one that is working well, which I don't. At any rate, I wish this were stated somewhere by the Voron community more prominently. Like over 100 parts. (I downloaded the STL zip file from Voron.) I mean if it were a dozen or a couple dozen I guess that would be one thing, you could have them made at Shapeways or something. But a hundred, yoiks. This fact makes it substantially more time consuming and or expensive to build this, than you might first assume.
3d parts are on the cheaper side actually. Also there is a print it forward in the discord and a few links on vorondesign to sellers. Number of parts may be scary but most are small prints and no support needed.
I got burnt buying Chinese extrusions. The center holes are 6mm, not 4.2 and so will not accept an M5 screw. I would use M6 screws, but those button heads are 10.5mm wide and the extrusion is only 10mm wide. FML!
The hammerhead type I recommend a dab of blue thread lock. Let it dry and it will provide the resistance you need so they turn and lock into place.
This is great explaining the details especially for someone just starting a corexy build.
Thank you for these explanations! They will even help me to build my RatRig v-Core Pro. Learning how to work with these extrusion profiles is universally valuable :)
Glad to help!
These are the type of videos I have been waiting for, Thanks!
7:45 waiitt.... I just realized. WAS THIS 3D PRINTED holy shit it looks injection molded! you're making me so jealous xD
Thank you for the very helpful video. I'd be interested in seeing a video about squaring a frame with blind joints. What issues you might run into that would throw it out of square and how to deal with them.
Very well presented and explained. Thank you.
U have a really calming voice
Thanks lol
The hammerhead tnuts arnt too bad once you get the hang of them. You almost get a feel for it. I just wind them backwards before winding them in and they almost always bite. Sometimes tilting the frame your screwing it into can help too.
Good info. Starting a v2.4 build.
nice... love the Voron!
Very clear and informative video and so useful for anyine contemplating a Voron build.
I see an issue. You need to fix the filament spool roller, it pulls and does weird things on the ptfe tube during the video trying to spin ..a polished tube there and you probably get a better retraction and feed. The profiles though are not chinese ( but could beeen made there) but a different profile standard.. there is several for 20x20 and you only got two there, there are also narrow track and different corners. Anyway it was a nice mount video.
Amazing stuff, nice job my man do wanna say, can you get a more stable table cause the wobble makes me nervious with such a beauty of a printer
Follow the plan and BOM to save yourself time, money, and headache. I'm modding my Tronxy X5SA pro just for fun.
I'm making a dry box out of a 21 cup Rubbermaid container and found a top which would allow me to NOT drill holes in the container; however, it's 241mm long and I can't print it. Perhaps the 250mm build would work, and I read some people on discord saying they wish they'd built 250 rather than 350, but I've a large workshop so size isn't an issue for me. That said, is the cost for 350 much more than 250 and does it print as well? What do you think about 350 vs 250?
Brilliant - I'm building a 1.6 - any chance you could mention which bits of the video are applicable (to the 1.6), I realise a whole series dedicated to the 1.6 would be asking too much...
So while this series is focused on the v2. I am keeping it as generalized as possible for future proofing against design changes. Alot of the components for the v1 and v2 are common. So I may just do a single small video on the v1 centric items down the line.
@@CanuckCreator That sounds good - thank you :-)
I'm looking to get my first 3D printer. I'm wondering whether I should build something like this versus paying $800 for a Prusa MK3S. FWIW - I've build a 8020 workbench, have plenty of tools including dial indicators, etc. What do you think ... is this something which would give me more for the same money ... what would you do?
In my opinion, the voron v2, and even the v1, runs rings around the pursa.
The prusa is a turnkey solution though, while the voron is fully self sourced and built DIY
It all depends how much time and money your willing to invest, a v1 is 4-600, v2 is 1000-1200
@@CanuckCreator Do you mind explaining why this is so much better, from a technical perspective?
Is the gap in your 20x20 profile 8mm and you are using an 9mm linear rail?
Thank you for sharing.
Hi two questions as im looking at this design for my next printer. You said we cannot go above 350, however im needing 400mm+ (ideally 500mm) what problems are you seeing that prevents that size? Also when will step files be available so that i can mill these parts instead of printing them?
CAD is available on the voron design website/github
Beyond 350mm corexy belt runs get quite long and can lead to demised performance and isnt recommended
@@CanuckCreator thank you
Given how narrow the mgn9 rails are why were they used instead of mgn12 rails? Especially given the lip on the chinese 2020's i(which is what I have) t seems lilke 12mm would have been a better choice.
9mm is used due to size constraints, due to the way the printer is designed the carriage cannot be wider than the extrusions themselves, for examples, the enclosure panels would not be able to be mounted directly to the frame if the 4 Z carriages stuck out past the frame.
Hey, I know this is an old comment, but did u manage to get it work using the chinese off brand 2020? Did u use the 12mm rails? Thanks.
What about 8020 Inc ?
why use blind joints instead of L brackets etc?
will PETG plastic parts work or does it have to be ABS?
has to be ABS
petg will warp and have issues in a voron build chamber
Which cable chains are these?
IGUS chains are what they recommend on their website :)
I was interested in constructing this printer for a while, until I discovered there are a substantial number of 3D printed parts required . . . Fine I guess if you already have a 3D printer or have access to one that is working well, which I don't. At any rate, I wish this were stated somewhere by the Voron community more prominently. Like over 100 parts. (I downloaded the STL zip file from Voron.) I mean if it were a dozen or a couple dozen I guess that would be one thing, you could have them made at Shapeways or something. But a hundred, yoiks. This fact makes it substantially more time consuming and or expensive to build this, than you might first assume.
3d parts are on the cheaper side actually. Also there is a print it forward in the discord and a few links on vorondesign to sellers.
Number of parts may be scary but most are small prints and no support needed.
I got burnt buying Chinese extrusions. The center holes are 6mm, not 4.2 and so will not accept an M5 screw. I would use M6 screws, but those button heads are 10.5mm wide and the extrusion is only 10mm wide. FML!
Is this v2 right? Not 2.1
That is a 2.1 frame in the video, but this applies to all voron frames.
aww this is a bowden? a very long one too
Yes, the voron uses a bowden setup
no longer ;)
Sell kits already!