Chevy Suburban 5.7 : Crank No Start Part I
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- In this video I have a look at a 1999 Chevy Suburban 5.7 that quit on my customer driving down the road. I stick to my diagnostic thought process to get to the answer as quick as I can. -Enjoy!
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I've come to enjoy the compressor just like brake cleaner, intro, outro and even Big Nasty. Wouldn't be SMA without it!
"hey its that guy" works at Napa notasponsor!
I don't think I would ever get to enjoy that compressor... Wouldn't mind seeing a Patreon setup for moving that thing outside!
@@chiluco2000 I'm in!
The compressor needs a name, what about "Mr A".
@@bostedtap8399 how about thunder. lol
I love when you say "hey its that guy" when someone honks.
One of my bosses from way back whenever someone came in he didn't know always said "There he Is!" Made them feel welcome. I do it myself sometimes.
my grandpa used to always say "oh there he is right there" and I would always fall for it and ask 'who' and he would reply "him" and just point at some random guy
@@FirstStreetTV - Gotta love grandpas!
'I'll be right out" is my go to phrase...
I wonder how many people are aware of Avoca because of this channel
in the early 90s, I worked for the county road commission. All the Chevy fleet vehicles had to have the distributor changed out because if the vehicle idled too long the distributor would seize from the lack of oil. They had a special distributor with a spiral shaft to draw oil up to lubricate the housing.
Mine is a 1999 Chevy Blazer. I fully understand where you're coming from
The only tool used in the fine science of Tryagnostics is the parts cannon. A formidable weapon indeed.
00
She didn't work this time.. Must have shot himself in the foot
South main auto video the best weekend drug a mechanic can get
I’ll drink to that!
100%
Another fine production Eric!
I bought a brand new '99 Suburban as a leftover in 2000. 5.7 Vortec, GMC 1500 SLE, 3rd row seat, and barn doors. Drove it till 2015, when a barn door body style collector asked if I'd sell it. We made a deal and I drove it to his shop, got out of it with 272,000 original miles. Just normal maintenance, 1 radiator, and a few water pumps. Never had any tranny problems, original aluminized exhaust under it when I sold it too.
Paid 24K for it in 2000 as a leftover, had 4 miles on the clock. Don't think my new Tahoe will last 1/2 as long as that old GMC Suburban...
Work safe, keep up the great videos!
Doug@ the "ranch"
Plugs and a prayer🤣🤣🤣
Right...how many people you know have done that?
You've been the single most influence moving me from Trynostics to Diagnostics so thanks for that. By looking at real time run data I was able to figure out 07 suburban running lean WITHOUT buying a ton of un-needed parts.
171 and 174? Its a maf :P
Fun to see you working on an old 350 Chevy small block. I tore apart and rebuilt many of these in the 1980's. My friend still has a 1999 Suburban and I always like working on it, except for the Spider fuel injection and knock sensor which are under the intake manifold.
The distributor gear is softer than the cam gear, so it will go first. In the old days (points or HEI) you had to drop the distributor in and get the timing close enough to start, then use a timing light to adjust the timing by turning the distributor, then tighten its hold down bolt.
Theres also a wire that'll need to be unplugged while you time it in
I have had a brand new Napa "corrected" distributor cap cross fire within itself and cause an idle miss.
When they arrange the caps to have the wire sockets in order on each side of the cap they do it by bending and crossing over copper wire molded in the cap plastic. If the copper wires were not nested correctly they get too close together and jump spark.
Super duper common. I've replaced dozens and dozens of them over the years. Because the cam and drive gear are a much harder steel, the drive gear usually suffers zero damage. The biggest potential issue is that all that metal that's ground off goes through the rest of the motor potentially shortening the life of bearings in the motor. I've never had one come back for a blown motor though. Those cast iron 350s are tough as nails motors for the most part!
Part owner and mechanic of a small two bay, one lift (in the floor hydraulic) worked about 18 months. Love the sound of the compressor coming on, reminds me of the time there every time I hear it.
Boffa deez nutz.... youre friggin killin me dude
Has me rolling in my bed at 11pm!!
It's amazing how watching a knowledgeable mechanic with the patience and sense of humor you posses walk us through simple as well as complicated operations without assuming we know what's going on can be so darn relaxing. And I can't help with your style but learn stuff too lol :)
"Plugs n a prayer" , "Trynogistics " 🤣😂😆. Love it I've been laughing about this all day long!!!!
I spent 20 years in the car repair business, mostly GM dealers and as I watch, it like you're reading my mind. I'll say to myself " well I'd check" and there you are reading my mind. Good videos.
I called it from the start LOL. I had the exact thing happen to my 97 GMC w/ 5.7
Stripped the gear clean off. It had a bronze gear and sent crap through everything. I dropped the pan and checked bearings and got lucky. Replaced the distributor and ran it for a few years more before I upgraded.
I just installed a distributor on the 4.3l Silverado with the same issues .Great Video . Thumbs up
so glad to be done with this old GM desighn , never going back -a pain to work on . the starter with shims and the rear mounted distributor . LS baby from now on
Happened to us once on a motorhome with a 454. Quick and right diag. thanks for the vid !
2000 Chevy Express 3500 7.4 454.
I'm in the middle of this right now. Motorhome w/454 engine, hard start situation devolved into a no start situation.
No start situation has now devolved into no start with the occasional grinding sound.
Since I bought, hard start. Once started it would stay running.
Now it's worse to the point where it won't quite start but it's trying.
And now I sometimes hear grinding.
Starter? Maybe it's the distributor!
I need to test fuel pressure.
But something tells me I will probably end up putting a new distributor in it. And hopefully the starter is not damaged.
When it's time to move but your house won't start.
Thank you so much Eric! The same exact thing happened on my truck when I was 700 miles away from my home while I was on a road trip. Because of your videos, I was able to replace distributor myself on the parking lot of a local repair shop (they were busy and let me work on my truck).
I really don't know much about auto repair and because of it I don't understand what you are saying half the time, but I still love watching your videos.
Tryignostics! Love it!
It is surprisingly common on those with the plastic distributors.
@Edward Martinez GM timing chains on small block chevy's from the 60's through the 2000's are extremely rugged and reliable. Way better than a cog belt that some genius came up with. In the 70's a few of the CAM gears had plastic covered teeth to make them quitter, and those didn't last long. I don't remember ever seeing a broken chain on a Chevy, but I have seen a few where the chain had so much slack that it wore a hole in the timing chain cover, probably at over 200k miles.
I've worked on many 5.7s. 1st., distributers are junk, wears out easy. 2, I've seen rear cam bearing spin. 3, under serviced vehicles.
Its a good engine when taken care of.
may be wise to use an "oil pump primer" tool and drill on them, to make sure it's oiling good. I recall something that had oiling issues, but brain won't let me recall which vehicles, maybe ford taurus lol
To diagnose no run conditions I was always taught to check the 4 things required for an engine to run.
1. Ignition
2. Fuel
3. Timing
4. Compression
Finding one of those is not so hard, but finding what is causing that issue maybe harder.
@Thomas doing those checks will get you at least most of the way there into narrowing down the problem.
1. Check ignition - pull the plug and ground it. Then watch if it fires.
2. Fuel - Do you smell fuel in the chamber? Can check if the fuel pump works. Sometimes spraying some starting fluid in can verify this too.
3. Timing - Check to make sure the plug wires are correct.
4. Compression - does it sound like it has compression?
Take an old distributor and grind the end the rotor goes on and take the gear off and there is your 350 chevy oil pump driver to fit your drill.
That's old school variable timing
The damn sweatshirt strings are going to kill you one of these days. 😆😟😖😭
Always tuck them in
No.
I was going to say the say thing! Be careful, we love your videos.
GM had this problem way back in the 80's . I started my automotive career in 1977.
Been a long time since I've seen an old school distributor. This is like car archaeology.
Carchaeology
Dodge put distributors in their trucks up until 2002
It’s the new Chevy Variable Distributor Timing. VDT. It changes your distributor timing till the truck won’t start.
Nice non flow chart diagnosis. I like how you jump right to the problem and not to the flow charts.
"TRIAGNOSTCS"....I am going to put that in my tool box from now on!!!
I think triagnostics is similar to the parts cannon
I remember when I was young and built my sbc with my dad he showed me to pull apart my old distributor and take shaft and chuck it up in the drill so I could prime the oil pump. I feel like that could have been a good test for the oil pump in this case. Just my 2 cents lol
good way to confirm oil pressure too. He was just looking to see if it was free or bound up.
Oh that reminds me of an old ford that wouldn't crank over that was sitting at the Blue Beacon Truck wash in Knoxville TN. The guy couldn't get it cranked and I didn't have anything to test it so I went to the distributer cap and removed it. Had a ton of moisture under the cap. Took some paper towels and dried it out and the button as well, popped it back together and it fired right up.
Very Common on 4.3 and 5.7's.
On my buddies 2000 Chevy it set the crank/cam correlation code, but it still had teeth on the distributor. In order to pass emissions without any codes we had to CNC out a new hold down with a slot for the hold down bolt. We were able to use Torque Pro to adjust.(PID 221301, Min-100, Max 100, Units Degrees,((Signed (A)*256)+B)*0.024,OBD Header Auto)
I'm tackling this today and I've been a little stumped and now I think I'm having the same problem also. Pretty sloppy rotor so I'm gonna pull the distributor out and replace it then see what happens. Great video . I'll update you later on and share the outcome of it all . Thanks a bunch.
You havent seen one in NYS cause they rotted out about 15 years ago. We are still running them in the south, I have 4 of them presently with one, southern one, sitting in Middleport NY cause i was traveling and flew out. Now its getting the same way with the Mid 2000-2012 trucks, full of holes in New York. great channel thanks for your help.
I've done a bunch of 4.3 V6s with this problem in my shop, never had a V8 that bad. The cam and distributor gears are dissimilar metals the cam is hard billet steel the distributor gear is soft castiron and eventually wears out around the 200K mark.
One of the main problems with the "Shivy" small blocks. That, and the damn pick up coils in the distributors, working as the cam sensor. Leaves a lot of shade tree guys scratching their heads. Also seen the reman distributors fail easily, from the gear being shaved in the reman process.
10:55 is the absolute funniest thing I've heard Eric say in quite some time. 😂😂😂😂
Yessir 🤣
I died 😆
Seen that to many times replace with a aluminum unit and it wont do that. The plastic ones deflect from the load of the oil pump and causes a gear alingment problem. It's good they made the cam gear twice as hard
Years ago after repeatedly replacing a sheared distributor gear key on a Ford straight 6, I concluded that it had to be a failing oil pump. I could determine no other symptom, and the pump seemed to be the only possible cause. Thanks for stressing the need to validate oil pump condition/performance before concluding this was only distributor failure. Sometimes tryagnostics seem to be the only option, but as technicians we should diagnosis to absolute certainty, sometimes for our own egos.
Worked on Chevy small blocks at lot during my misspent youth. I cut the handle off a screwdriver and put it in a drill to turn the oil pump to pump up the oil system.
Oh my goodness, a minute and 4 seconds in and you already have me laughing. Tryagnostics got me busting a gut. You my friend are a true comedic technician and a
great one at that. Cant stop watching your videos.
I'm so glad my bore scope has a built in light ...saves me the two handed dance .
Same engine in my '97 GMC K1500. Might be bits and pieces at oil pump, cam, pan. Quick check for shiny oil. Someone may have jammed the distributer and broke the teeth, or didn't compensate for the mesh/rotation if it was pulled then reinstalled. When my oil pump drive went, it chewed up the teeth on the distributer and had to replace distributer also.
Don't quote me on this but I think I remember hearing something about gm using different materials for the cam and distributor gear during different model years so the cam and distributor have to be the same year or the gears would destroy themselves like that
Freiburger talked about it on roadkill
The old cams were cast cam and cast gear. The roller cams are steel with a bronze gear. Ive replaced a few and never had a bad gear on the cam
Great video as always. I'd miss my wedding if you posted one at that time.
I read your comment to my wife and told her, "and you get mad because I ignore you while watching a SMA video." Anyway, thanks for a great laugh!
It's all about the routine, gets you to the right place damn quick. Another great video.
I see this all the time, and the cam gear always looks good, tons of those 5.7l running around here in utah with lots of miles. I think the distributor drive gear is just made out of a softer material and they wear out with over 130k(seems to be the magic number)
"Try-agnostics"! A new word for my lexicon! Thanks Eric!
Ugh I’m having some issues with the same engine. Friends mom has a 92 1500, over all she’s taken decent care of it but the darned thing has developed a detonation issue Under heavy load but only AFTER it’s been driven for a long time. Been trying to help chase down the issue but so far no luck
One car I had years back had a high performance 327 motor in it and I put an aluminum distributor in it when it was being built. It started ok, but then died after about 1 minute. Upon checking, I found that the distributor shaft broke the whole way around. I ended going back to a cast one and never had a problem with it after that.
You should name the Air compressor "IVAN" He'd get a kick out of that
marty I second that...all in favor.
Aye!
Aye!
Aye !!!!!
Aye! 👍
Eric you can change the gear on that distributor ,now there is metal in the oil from the gear being chewed up
yes as mentioned above, roasted distributor gears leads to plugged oil pump screen/tube which in my case led to no oil flow in running/hot 454 which led to purchase of new long block and replacement of every, and I mean every module, sensor/timing cover/oil pan/intake/exhaust/valve cover gaskets, not to mention if your there, may as well replace egr and tube, fuel pressure regulator, don't re-use old fuel injectors! water pump, hoses, belts, ..... power steering pump will fail just as you get the whole new engine strapped up to the trans, just because you own the heavy truck "GM Hydro-boost" brake system!.......on and on and on until you have a new truck one way or the other...............LOL
and one last thing, if this is caught early enough not to cause catastrophic engine failure, there should be a whole sale inspection of the oil/oil pump/cam bearings/lobes and associated bushings and journals, cuz that trash will move thru entire engine! just sayin......
Definitely qualifies as excessive backlash on the distributor! I haven't heard "Tryignostics" in a long time. I actually laughed out loud. Thanks for another great video.
going to have to start a donate towards the build a soundproof box around the air compressor fund.
It was a common problem, replaced 4 or 5 myself
Got a 94 with 307683 miles on the 350 motor no internal problems ac, water pump alternator pvc EGR radiator no rust Texas Truck, does need new seat maybe someday.
Yep replaced a few distributors like that the bushings were shot in the distributor and it ate the gear. Replaced the distributor, changed the oil & filter and customers never had a problem with it but I told them the metal that was floating around could have caused engine damage especially to the crankshaft & bearings but they didn't want to spend the $$. Obviously it was a good call for them and they'd remind me every time they brought it in it was still running great 😎
Changed a ton of those things, I always use the aluminum replacements so the ears don’t break off.
Oh cool, an engine I am familiar with. I've had my share of 5.7 issues (mainly the intake gaskets failing, twice) but the set of Fel-Pro gaskets I installed should do the trick. (thank you for the tip) This one is new to me so naturally I find this very interesting.
My sons gmc 1500 broke down last week. Turned out to be his rotor cap had come off - stripped screw. Definitely helped me diagnose it from watching your videos. Thanks
I have had a couple ford distributors that sheared the gear pin, they would crank, backfire and then run for a little bit, and then die again. First one was interesting to diagnose!
Love the videos inspired me to do more work on my own vehicles and on saved my boss thousands on the farm trucks
Had the same thing happen to a Pontiac in mid 80's. Dist bushing seized, distributor spun about 20 degrees out of time, then bushing let go. Engine would spin over, of course no start. Towed in to shop, mechanic claimed my camshaft was broken. I asked why the rotor still turned when engine cranked. Eventually figured out what happened, new distributor and I was on my way
Needs a brand new, high quality, top of the line, guaranteed to start one time dorman part put in.
I'm jealous of that "Topside Creeper" having prostrated myself on too many engines.
I think the Super Mario 1Up should be the Fluid Film sound.
I think a non-copyright-infringing space-based laser sword, but Mario 1up (or power-up) has merit.
I disagree, it should be Link finding an item.
Man this brings back memories. Had the same thing happen on a Toyota Camry that I owned ages ago. New distributor (which was rediculously expensive!) and away I went. Learned a lot working on that car which was poorly maintained by the previous owner.
Whoa we're half way there, whoa Eric O, livin on spark plugs and on a prayer. Sounds like the 80's. Thank you Eric. Good job. I appreciate your videos. Have a blessed and safe week.
Frankly eric. I saw one of the cam teeth looked worn slightly. I recommend check the oil for metal shavings. That metal went somewhere or that was a distributor change with or without owners knowledge. Or it's a bureau auto repair car. I haven't a clue but like that customer with coil packs awhile ago. Crank no start without the wires inside coil boot to put the spark into the spark plug the customer claimed he did his own repairs left parts in the back of SUV. Your great. 1999 is a good Chevy.
Thank God Hammonsport is not that far from Rochester NY, especially if I ever need this guy.
The priming tool for SBC works (dam it! You mention it just as I was typing!)
Trynostics
Never heard that before
trynostics=dartboard=parts cannon! lol!
@@thecritic3710
There's always a critic
@@thecritic3710 all rolled up in a nut shell
Beast. My favorite channels?.as a tech in htown love the way you diag most the time. You have allldata Your brain. Wish I could work for you. Love the positive attitude..... Wait till our hybrids hit you
Dejavu for me..Worked on a 2003 Chevy Blazer with the 4.3. It was in the beginning stages of this problem, the gear had enough play that would rattle ever so often but under load you can clearly hear it. Also just like you said in the video the ears were stripped out. Scannerdanner has a video on this distributor where the customer or repair shop removed the pin to change the gear and put it on wrong ended up with a Cam/Crank Correlation code.
You're personality and can do spirit is awesome man. Reminds me of my best friend who passed this last October. Always the laugh it off way when working on cars. Cheers
I appreciate your videos they are interesting. Great information not only that you have a professional attitude. Clean language and you do not throw Tools around when something happens. You stay focused and accomplish the job
Just put one in a 98 burb, so glad I had purchased a topside creeper,without that I would need back surgery too
I have a Chev 4.3 V6 in my boat and at 80 hours since new the same thing happened with the distributor drive gear. Inspected everything like you did but since the whole engine had such low time I just replaced the gear and put it back in. Now I have over 300 hours on the engine and so far no problems yet. Still would like to know why the original gear failed to start with.
Good question
Sweet! A distributor finally! Sadly it's a modern distributor - one of the last ones built. Cheapout central. The ones from the 80's back spun for 400k miles (with regular oil changes), and rarely peeled the teeth off.
Same exact engine in my buddy's '96 Tahoe. It cranked over the exact same way. Long story short, ended up being the engine computer. That turned into a debacle itself. Got one from a boneyard. Guy looked me in the eye and told me it came right out of another V8 Tahoe. The fact that it didn't cost my buddy about $1k out of the parts cannon, trying to get this thing to hit on all 8! Had a double-dead miss. At the time, I wasn't savvy enough to check for injector pulse. Wasn't until YEARS later, when I bought my Autel, that I got in the ECU, ran the VIN, and found out it was from a '96 S10 Blazer!!! GRRR! Went on eBay, and $100 later, we had an engine computer, VIN programmed for us, that was plug and play. After 10 seconds of misfiring (which made me super nervous), she smoothed right out and hit on all 8 for the first time in 5 years! This was the vehicle that got me motivated to scour RUclips for OBD-II info. I found ETCG, then found you, Paul Danner, Ivan, and Keith - the rest is history! :)
Nice FAST diag, brother! 👍👍
Drop everything for it!
wow
Eric you are great mechanic. Cheers from Brooklyn.
All I heard when coming back from the bathroom to my truck I’m working on was , BOFFA, BOFFA DEEZ NUTS. then I busted out laughing. Thank you. I needed that
Lol 5.7... "America". Glad to finally see the video after hearing about it. Lol. This is a decent case.
"Looks like we got ourselves a stripper". Oh my Eric! You and your quotes!! 😂😂
I haven't seen a car with a distributor in years.
@@jeremyanthony9300 when we were talking about this Suburban, he said the same. I still use my timing light probably once a month or so. It's pretty weird how much our demographics come into play. He also sees vehicles I don't see at all yet.
@@jeremyanthony9300 Neither have I, and my last vehicle was a 1992 Ford Ranger with the big, and thirsty 4.0 Vulcan V6 and it was distributorless, believe it or not. It was reliable the whole 6 years I owned it and who knows how old it was then, the truck, as best I could ascertain had 189K when I got it in 2006, and when I traded it in, in 2012, it had 237, almost on the clock and leaking fluids but still ran even though the idler air control valve was on the fritz. I drive a 2003 Mazda Protege 5 now with with the big 2.0L 4 pot, 16V motor (fixed timing though) and it has 2 coil packs, one for 2 cylinders, and another for the other 2 and they sit right on top of the valve cover and just 2 screws holds them down. Easy peasy to replace should one go, but so far...
Don’t worry about the compressor coming on it ain’t hurting nothing.
The dreaded P1345 on 5.7 vortex...the gear on distributor is sacrificial ( soft metal) as where the cam is made of a tool steel ( hardened metal)..
"Something bad is happening down yonder" - If you could keep a straight face and say that to the customer it would be priceless though we know you're not the type of guy to do something like that.
CTSCAPER LMAO!!!
Eric, you need to coin the term "suck, squeeze, bang, blow," that is too hilarious... You keep us laughing all the time...😂
Too late. That phrase has been around since the invention of the internal combustion engine.
I used to work in a euro shop. We had a mercedes come in on a tow truck. Cranks miss fires and doesn't start. Timings out obviously but its got a pick up and individual coils no distributor. We fixed it. It took a while to work out what it was. It had been towed in after the owner had fitted a reconditioned transmission. What we didn't find out till the owner came it to check on the progress was he had replaced the flexplate because one of the teeth had broken. The flexplate and crank have factory index marks punched into them as the bolt holes are evenly spaced. He had fitted it in the wrong position. So out with the trans and flexplate and line it up and put it all back together all fixed.
No auto mechanic I've seen does more to produce a quality video than Eric O. He's in a class by himself.
I had a Tahoe with the 5.7
Did the same as this customer even burnt up the starter like he did (I was 16). Ended up being here was a crack down the distributor along the shaft, threw the timing off.
You've come a long ways from Dr. O to Erik O to "Self Made" auto.
Wow that's one knackered dizzy, but i would rather a nylon gear wear than the one inside the engine. :-)
The timing must have been jumping around like mad before the owner finally killed it.
Knackered dizzy and mad. This is the most uk thing ive seen all day. Lol.
bentboybbz
Yep i'm all mad, goes with the territory :-D
@@zx8401ztv - l've started using the term "dizzy " for the dist because i like how descriptive it is. But I'm not going to use bonnet, boot, spanner or petrol though😆.
cmans79tr7
It's just a slang word for distributor, ' it needs a new dizzy cap mate.'
I would never call petrol 'Gas' as it's not gas, it's a liquid untill atomized.
Spanner/wrench i use both.
Fender is an odd one because on a car we call it a wing (yep daft), but on a motorbike it's a mud guard.
I don't make the words up :-D
Hey Eric,
Quit worrying about the compressor. to me it gives authentic character!!! Got to love it!!
If it helps anyone I had spark still from the plugs. Crank no start issue. Ended up being the distributor this was a good video
As a gm/Chevy guy, I can say that yes, this is a common problem. Did one on my 97 4.3 k1500 a week after I picked out up. P300 from it.