Top tip. When changing the oil and filter on a paper element filter like this. I always remove the filter with the sump plug still out. When you take the filter off all the oil that's in there returns back to the sump. The more old oil you get out the better
@@tomskimcdouglegaming806 you would be surprised at how many don't. Maybe most know this and do this but the idea of the comment was to let people know who don't know obviously. Iv actually seen quite a few people now draining via the dipstick tube via vacuum
Paul got the wrong end of the stick with Martin Simms - top tip.. Martin clearly says 'when pushing the piston back'.. and yes, of course you'd close the nipple to prevent any air getting drawn into the system.. great videos lads..
Well that's my 2 minutes of fame haha. Yes that's what I meant, once you crack open the bleed nipple you can usually push the piston back in quite easily using just thumb pressure - as soon as piston is pushed home close bleed nipple. No need for an assistant to touch the brake pedal and no air should have entered the system, just top up resovouir to replace the bit of fluid that was pushed out of the caliper.
I have done the oil filter change on my 2.5 TDi 20 times, and I have never needed to remove the front. Pop off the engine cover (if there)Just unscrew and move the servo reservoir. Then use an long extension and a 32 socket on the filter top. Reach down and change it. A 3 min job.
Hey edd and Paul, the tip of releasing the bleed nipple to compress the brake calliper piston is done at the beginning of the job. That being, remove old pads, release nipple, push piston back in completely, retighten nipple, replace pads, repeat for other side. Then bleed the system. As stated, this way removes any degraded fluid, stops the master reservoir overflowing and reduces chances of seal inversion and makes the job of pushing the piston in very easy. I was taught this back on the farm in my youth. In the old days of steel bodies
a video showing even an A** mechanic struggling makes us driveway mechanics feel a lot better, cheers for the heat shrink tip too will definitely remember that one. Awesome video as always Edd!!
Thank you for this Edd. Us Alfa Romeo Giulietta owners have been living under the impression that our cars had the worst positioned filters for servicing in the world, with the oil filter requiring removal of the drivers side front wheel and a hatch in the arch to access, and the air filter being behind the front bumper and requiring removal of the front undertray which is secured by a ridiculous number of bolts. It's insane on any vehicle to have the oil filter that inaccessible, but on a commercial vehicle you have to think it's a deliberate choice to scam customers in to getting servicing done at a dealer.
In order to replace the cabin air filter on a Ford Taurus you got to remove the entire cowling beneath the front windshield under the hood, a multitude of bolt and clips. On top of that the radio is located in the trunk with the front controls just being a facade with the knobs and buttons, to make it even worse they put a vertical steel support bar right behind it so you can't fit a normal radio there (although some short radios will just squeeze in.)
Fuel economy requires the covers. The T4 5 cylinder had the sump gaurd too. Infact, most trucks also have covers for drain plugs but holes to access to filters if underneath.
For the brake hose: the rubber hose is crimped in the fitting. The crimp is air tight. Adding heat basically causes the rubber to burn (and expand to a gas).... the chain reaction keeps going until the fitting explodes. It's actually super handy for seized flex lines. Put on the safety face shield and ear muffs, add heat, and once she goes bang, the fitting usually comes apart.
My face when he said "the filter is at the top of the engine, and we'll have to take the front of the car off" was... WTF? Who on earth designed that?!
@@GamerSloth2275 It's not that bad. Long shaft on a socket with a wobble connection. Only have to move the reservoir above out of the way. Takes about five minutes on my 2.5.
@@GamerSloth2275 I think its the same guy that designed the front of the mk3 renault clio, to change a headlight you have to take the front of the car off
Hi Edd and Paul. My suggested top tip is to loosen the oil filter before draining the oil so the contents of the filter housing can drain out. Also, I tend to use a smear of grease on the filter seal instead of oil, handy to keep loose seals in place too.
Yep and the R5 engine was only put in this t5 van and the touareg so they haven't even got the excuse that the location was designed with another engine bay in mind
Petronas ad: Skipped over, didn't watch, will now NEVER EVER buy any Petronas oil, have adblocker, so won't see any other ads either. Just pure content, and I thank you! Well, I thank me a little bit.
So long as you buy the latest 'API'certified Oil that's backwards compatible with your Vehicle, then your good to go and ahead of the curve, even helping the Engine, but Frequent oil changes are the way to go, especially on Diesels or cars with Turbos what with generate internal crankcase pressures and ,Oil Dilution on Diesels, products of combustion enter the sump and turn the oil into soup, degrading same for a past time, then that stuff is then circulated through EGR Valves on those small High revving Engines, the worst being the Worst...like those Ford ECO-Bomb Engines. Edd could have serviced the Inter cooler and Oil cooler and Rad matrix fins, with the front off and those parts exposed by cleaning the crud off same but i'm sure he will get around same in another programme, great Upload...
Haha Marcus. A famous 'merican once said quite vociferously... ( That posh speak for LOUD ) YOU CANNOT BE SERIOUS ! Being serious, EVs can only ever be a small part of the answer to Energy Use problems.
Hi Edd & Paul. Interesting to see the work on your VW van. I used to service the earlier FWD Transporters, 2.4 diesel. On those the oil filter was on the back of the engine, and the radiator pack swivelled out to improve access. So much for product improvement, it all looked far more cramped on yours!! Keep up the good work. Steve.
One point is you should have put the new sensor through the oil level test also. That way you might know that the old one is bad or the new one isn't BIBed.
Top tip of the week. Never watch Edd China's Workshop Diaries while you drive. I did and the result was good and bad. The bad? I died in a car accident. The good? They DO have the internet in Heaven. And I am telling everyone up here about your great channel, Edd. So, hopefully, we will help you get to that magic 1 million subscribers number. ☮
"Ease of routine maintenance" was clearly not high on the list of design criteria for that vehicle. The designers should be forced to change the switches, oil and filter at least twice, in a hurry. Seriously, there are oil analysis services available for aero engines. They run the used oil through spectrometers, &c., looking for unwelcime developments like the appearance of bearing or cam lobe metal in it. Have you any experience with these services? I have heard the opinion that car engines in normal operation generate too much metal to make the testing worthwhile. (Too much noise to see a signal.) What's your opinion?
It's a car engine in a van it has to be deep in. To determine the change time of oil usually TBN (Total Base Number) is determined, on large (truck, bus and larger) engines where a lot of oil is used and thus it makes sense to do the test. Spectrometry is used to indicate the wear of certain components, again on large engines where components are expensive. The car engine actually wears less than the aero engine (the aero engine's life is expressed in hours after all, not thousands of hours though). The best application of spectrometry, radiation or other oil test is in engine development where we need to determine component durability.
Customer: "I'm here for an oil change." Garage: "What kind of vehicle do you have?" Customer: "A VW van." Garage: "That'll be $1600 and you can pick it up next week."
The results are in: Best lighting Best sound Best music Best cinematography Best production and editing Best content! Thank you to the entire team for this wonderful automotive content.
50% infomercial but somehow, it's all authentic. Great channel. I'm not into cars as such, but enjoy watching folks making busted things work properly again. Here's to the 1,000,000th subscriber! 🥳
Great episode, Edd. Paul had an easy day on this one. Here’s a top tip for oil changes on newer vehicles: push the accelerator to the floor while cranking the engine. The engine won’t fire as it spins and will allow time for oil to fill the filter and build up oil pressure.
For them who wondered whats the text at 31:08 min : Don't worry Edd, 4.3 million men in the UK also suffer from this problem... And at 31:23 it says: Well, whatever it takes. You always seem to come up with the best solutions.
5:05 - Not exactly a Top Tip here... I've never used flushing oil, but when doing a change I always left the drain plug out after removing the old stuff and tipped in the remains of the previous 5 litre container - usually about half a litre of brand new oil that I hadn't needed (the sump + filter held just over 4 litres so there was always a bit left over). Whilst obviously not a full engine flush, it was still satisfying to see this old but unused oil pushing the very last of the horrible black sludge out of the drain hole. Using the oil left over from the previous change meant that I wasn't introducing any harsh cleaning agents, disturbing any bearings, or risking damaging any flexible seals. When everything running out was bright yellow/green and clean, I then felt a lot happier about swapping the filter and filling up with new oil, knowing that it wouldn't be clogged with last year's sludge as soon as the engine turned over. Every little helps...🙂
In most engines it's a pretty short trip from oil filler to drain plug, pouring some clean oil in isn't doing anything like s flush, your just, if you are lucky getting a bit more oil out of the sump, not out of the oil ways, pump, or anywhere else. You'd probably do better just slightly reducing the oil change intervals.
Nice like this idea.. I think it will remove that last 1 or l/2 litre that sits on the bottom of the..which can only be a good thing..... I agree with Hector. Reduce your oil intervals....that way the old oil will be in better condition...
@Elli P if there's still oil dripping out I've always done the same as you. I get where Hector is coming from as you won't remove much additional ditty oil apart from a skim at the bottom of the sump but as you say, every little helps! Another good tip is to drop the oil when it's murderously hot and thin. Just wear gloves and cover your arms in something that won't readily soak up oil or something you can remove very quickly should the need arise. An old jumper or overall arm tucked into a glove can be handy if access means you might get slathered in hot oil otherwise!
This is so good, and especially the bit about how the sensor works. With a more advanced scope like a Rigol, perhaps you could have decoded that signal. Thank god this show exists instead of wheeler dealers, so we can have some more indepth technical stuff,
I never minded pulling the bumper on my Audi to do repairs. Pulling it to change the oil filter though is a step too far. At least it has a long service interval!
@@patagualianmostly7437 Yes and no. Renault has tended to be the less insane French company. I was disappointed more than surprised - and quite chuffed that it wasn't my car.
I wonder whether the location of that oil filter was an afterthought by the VW design engineers. That's a relatively involved process for something that simple.. Thanks, guys.
Ok going to be controversial here. Considering VW was involved in diesel - gate it's clear the engineers do not necessarily think about the customer or techinican experience. Is it intentional? Or was Diesel Gate pro customer. helping them out...?
We used your pressurising oil gun to recharge the undercarriage oleos on Buccaneer aircraft back in the day! If memory serves me right we had to achieve 1500psi on the nose and even higher on the main undercarriage. I haven't seen one since 1993! Keep up the good work!
As the owner of my own workshop I find it incredibly interesting seeing the inventive ways Ed finds to test certain components, however I think its important to manage peoples expectations of their local workshop, it is totally unrealistic to expect the guys in your local garage to go out, source plastic jugs, spend the time ( prob a few hours in reality) fitting components into them setting up a scope and there is no way any tech worth his money would waste his brew whilst it was hot. Only to end up saying well we don’t actually know exactly what the system really expects so we’ll change it out anyway. I’m very lucky in the respect I have a friend who is very much like Ed and enjoys faffing and owns a pico scope. So if I get a fault that the code reader is a bit vague about I can give him a call, he comes down, we have a breakfast roll and a brew, he has access to an online database of expected signals on various sensors on various vehicles so he can see what is expected of that sensor and he knows how to test it at the ecu plug so this proves the sensor and its wiring. If a sensor is bad at the ecu you simply test it at the sensor end if it’s still bad then the sensor is shot if it’s good then the wiring needs looking at. I know I’m really lucky having someone like this who can help me for the cost of a Butty leaving me free to carry on earning money for the garage.
Indeed this is true.. I would think this format is for the YT DIY enthusiasts home servicing. But as EDD has a couple of brains cells he can rig up a test bed to explain what exactly is going on. This is in keeping with the true EDD explanatory format but also allowing others some top tips in helping with diagnostics.... ..I too was outraged @ that wasted cup 'o tea.. scandalous! #tea-gate
Hi, thanks for the great show. I'm a tech here in Sweden and with our road conditions (heavy salting etc) i'm used with everyting about rust ( rusty brake lines for example). About that blown brake hose. Thats what happens when heating it. Try it on a loose one on the bench and that will happen. I guess its something with tight press fit that will make it bang. Keep upp the spannering/ Peter Andersson
Just like Peter over vere says, have happened to me several times. I even tried cutting the brakeline in the middle before heating it, but still blows of with a loud bang.
It always amazes me how inaccessible even regular service points are on modern engines. The Citroën BX was famous (forty years ago) for only needing 2,5 hours for most services - if it takes bumper and intercooler disassembly just to change the oil filter, then that is already 15 to 20 minutes of your service time gone...
Have you heard of a ford fusion suv ? Well apparently it take 9 hours to remove if it needs servicing trans or tranfercase. , just think of the high costs b4 you even start at the Dealership, shocking stuff. Maybe do a class action against Ford for bad design ??, lol.
Not every engine, my Octavia RS with EA888 Gen 3 has the filter on top. With plastic sump you only need one flathead screwdriver and a socket to do the oil change :D
Many years ago I had a Triumph GT6. Along with the Spitfire it must have been the easiest car to work on. Release two catches and I could open up the whole front end, sit on the front wheel and work on the completely exposed engine and front suspension.
I had a central locking fault on my T5 . In fact it locked the van with the keys in . Long story but I eventually found that the switch in the drivers door was at fault . At least the PCB was. When you have the window open and it rains it gets wet and the PCB tracks corrode. Just something else to check . Enjoying the videos.
Would've been interesting to compare the signals of the old and the new sensor to figure out whether it was faulty or not. Also using a logic analyser and sigrok to decode the signal might have been interesting, perhaps a cooperation with an electronics channel? #Syntium
I agree that it would be interesting for educational purposes. But it's a good rule to assume (under these circumstances where a prior fault caused oil and cooling fluid to be mixed), that if one sensor is faulty, then the other sensor is probably also very close to develop a fault. I would always change both sensors as a precaution.
Best episode in ages. Edd working independently (i.e limited Paul) and not working on that blasted Land Rover (💤). Now please could you get back to the blinking headlights on your mates US car. He must be bored of waiting. 🙏
Thanks for testing the sensors, I always like to do this when possible (as a home mechanic) to understand how they work and if I can confirm the actual fault. #Syntium
Hello Edd AND Paul! My sons and me were just remarking the other day, after a re-run of that other show you were on, "What has Paul been up to?". Well, I guess we know! You've gotten the shop band back together! Good to see you both!
How to change your oil filter : first remove the front of the vehicle 😱😱😱 . This is why folk just don't bother doing regular servicing anymore and run the thing into the ground .
This sort of reminds me of older Audi A4s like the B5 and B6/B7 which, when equipped with the 1.8T engine (and perhaps other petrol engines, too) and quattro all-wheel drive, have the fuel filter strapped onto the side of the fuel tank, which requires lowering the entire fuel tank in order to change it. "Brilliant" piece of engineering.
16:14 Think Paul and you have misunderstood the tip. The way I read it is; you want to push back the piston so instead of “forcing” it back and having the fluid displaced all the way back to the master cylinder with the possibility of inverting seals etc, you push the piston in while cracking open the bleed nipple, which requires less force, fluid immediately behind the piston gets ejected then when piston fully back tighten nipple back up. Then top up master cylinder and flush/bleed as normal if required.
Hello Edd Glad you're back in the saddle again... all you needed to do was make a few adjustments to get your millions of worldwide fans again yes?! Love your visual explanatory engineering point of view, yes?! good job and bought your book also! ✌
That feeling of accomplishment & joy you & we got when the light bulb illuminated ;-) love it All your mechanical efforts have always and still are very appreciated Thank You Edd !!
dear ed, its a powerfull engine and yes it produces a lot of heat. drive it with the oiltemp on the dash. the heat will break down the oil faster there is a top garage called redhead technik.also here on youtube they place a big oilcooler on T5's
You and Paul chatting about past wheeler dealer project cars is making me want to dust off my old wheeler dealer DVDs ☺️ Keep up the great work, I've anyways liked the way you explain how things work rather than just chucking on a new part and moving on 👍 #SYNTIUM
Sorry but I’m impressed a mechanic knows what a byte and a nibble are. Doesn’t look relevant to this system but, even among nerd types, not many can define a nibble. Love the oil demo, I used to see a demo toy like that at every auto parts store. The snake oil being sold (remember “Motor Honey”, “STP” etc.?) changed, not the toy.
Just how do you retain your good humour when trying to tackle something recalcitrant while standing on your head, banking on one arm and your hip, realising that there's something sharp digging into your naughty bits? Under such conditions, I find that I'm quite inventive with colourful and robust language! :-O Anyhow, good video! I enjoyed it immensely, thank you! :-)
Random note Edd, so I final got your book delivered up here to Sonoma California, I read it and what I found interesting is your connection to California even before WD. What fascinated me was the opening of the book where you talk about Idyllwid California! I use to work for a Factory Mazada Race team build stadium off-road truck back in the 80’s there. Good read hope to see you come back out here to Ca!
#syntium This is a fantastic series, we can all see the enthusiasm you two have for motors of any age. I'm on holiday in Tenerife and your show is a great way to unwind at the end of a busy day sunbathing. Can't wait to get home and try out your tips to maintain my own van .Best wishes to the pair of you.
Really interesting. Thanks for showing us the oil level sensor. I'd guess it's communicating with the ECU using the 1-wire protocol. A bigger oscilloscope would be able to de-code the signal which may prove more informative.
I take your point that good quality oils are worth spending the extra money. That gear demonstration device was used many years ago to promote an oil additive which was "stickier than normal oil. I noticed that your "good quality oil " did not pour out the container into the funnel with the same degree of stickiness as the oil in the demo device. smoke and mirrors
From my little experience with proximity sensors in 3D printers 0-3.3V is binary 0, above 3.3V is binary 1. 10V on the sensor must do a little bit more than 0-1. I love the way how you tested the oil sensor with a tea. Very British.
Great video edd and paul great way to sort out the van with new oil and good way to show how oil switch works to thanks for showing us guys great show to
Back in the good old days I had an EH Holden in Australia. It had so much room I could do all type of servicing in my driveway. There was enough room in the engine bay to have a party. These days I lift the bonnet of my car take a look and close it again.
To change the oil filter you only need to clip out the turbo hose and an extension to screw it off. Everything accessable from the top. For that there is need to take off the front bumper.
Great video as always Edd. Speaking from personal experience on my own T5, the oil filter change is a joy to behold in a non joyous sense! 😊 I have now managed to get it changed fairly easily using a ratchet 2 extension bars and 2 flexi joints! Still a complete faff though!
Forte additives had a similar rig to show how effective oil flushes were at getting rid of sludge. My car is 17 years old which still has a yearly oil change regardless of the mileage.
A thing my dad would always say to new mechanics or people working on their own stuff was to buy cheap old spanners whenever you saw them (especially in common sizes) as a sacrificial tool should you find your self in the predicament where access is impossible with your decent tools, be it needing more of an angle of crank on the head or the head being too thick to fit in a gap. You'd much rather bend or grind down an old cheapo spanner than a nice shiny expensive one! He had loads of 'adapted' tools in his box ranging from spanners bent 90 degrees to open ended spanners cut in half that would fit into a gap and onto a nut where you could then get a hammer and drift to loosen it. #Syntium
I do flush the engine during an oil change with Diesel. Keeps the fresh engine oil super clean for longer and doesn't harm the engine components. For a VW T5 which takes 7.4 litres of oil, I use 5.4 litres of a cheaper oil during flush stage and 2 litres of diesel. Run the engine for around 20 minutes at different rev ranges not exceeding 2000 rpm. Drain the flushing oil and Diesel, replace the oil filter with a new one and fill with the recommended oil to the correct level. Adds years to the engine life. Ask an old school Mechanic about this and they will tell you this is what they used to do. #Syntium
#syntium Hi Edd and Paul. Great to see some more VW content back on the channel. Servicing costs was one of the reasons I bought a 1.9, not a 2.5 T5. Love the show.
Petronas Syntium Oil 5000AV 5w30 Really good oil is well suited to modern VAG engines and other manufacturers. I don’t trust the original oil that is not sold from a dealer, which you can buy from any seller and you can get a fake. I chose Petronas Syntium Oil. I use this oil when I pass half of the service interval.
Remember to enter the Petronas Syntium competition with a chance to win some oil by leaving a comment and #PETRONASSyntium OR #syntium
Fantastic content as always edd and paul. I always enjou watching your show keep it up.#Syntium
Like the amount of detail you go into. I use a torque wrench on my sump plugs now after damaging threads in the past. #Syntium
You are doing great job. #Syntium
Glad to see you happy edd and do what you do best let's hope you get 1 million subs
a comment and #Syntium lol
Top tip. When changing the oil and filter on a paper element filter like this. I always remove the filter with the sump plug still out. When you take the filter off all the oil that's in there returns back to the sump. The more old oil you get out the better
Everyone does that.
@@tomskimcdouglegaming806 you would be surprised at how many don't. Maybe most know this and do this but the idea of the comment was to let people know who don't know obviously. Iv actually seen quite a few people now draining via the dipstick tube via vacuum
Paul got the wrong end of the stick with Martin Simms - top tip.. Martin clearly says 'when pushing the piston back'.. and yes, of course you'd close the nipple to prevent any air getting drawn into the system.. great videos lads..
Well that's my 2 minutes of fame haha. Yes that's what I meant, once you crack open the bleed nipple you can usually push the piston back in quite easily using just thumb pressure - as soon as piston is pushed home close bleed nipple. No need for an assistant to touch the brake pedal and no air should have entered the system, just top up resovouir to replace the bit of fluid that was pushed out of the caliper.
I have done the oil filter change on my 2.5 TDi 20 times, and I have never needed to remove the front. Pop off the engine cover (if there)Just unscrew and move the servo reservoir. Then use an long extension and a 32 socket on the filter top. Reach down and change it. A 3 min job.
Same here
Same
Never had to take the bumper off to do that filter. What are you up to ed. Won't make bonus in a shop doing that 😂
Edd, thank you so much for that experiment with the sensor, I always loved those tests on Wheeler Dealers, something the show lost when you left.
Agreed 👍
LOVE THE SHOW & LOVE THE CAR ENGINE, OIL JOBS IN THIS EPISODE. MORE OF THIS PLEASE
@EddChine
Hey edd and Paul, the tip of releasing the bleed nipple to compress the brake calliper piston is done at the beginning of the job. That being, remove old pads, release nipple, push piston back in completely, retighten nipple, replace pads, repeat for other side. Then bleed the system. As stated, this way removes any degraded fluid, stops the master reservoir overflowing and reduces chances of seal inversion and makes the job of pushing the piston in very easy.
I was taught this back on the farm in my youth. In the old days of steel bodies
Yes, I think they confused pressing the piston back into the caliper with bleeding the system after servicing the brakes. Two different procedures.
a video showing even an A** mechanic struggling makes us driveway mechanics feel a lot better, cheers for the heat shrink tip too will definitely remember that one. Awesome video as always Edd!!
That is a good tip.
In the USA they have spring tensioned uv socket joints which does the same thing.
They’re called “Auto Flex Universal Joint”
Your testing of components confirms root cause of fail mode. Nobody does it like Edd! Thanks for the over the top fix.
Thank you for this Edd. Us Alfa Romeo Giulietta owners have been living under the impression that our cars had the worst positioned filters for servicing in the world, with the oil filter requiring removal of the drivers side front wheel and a hatch in the arch to access, and the air filter being behind the front bumper and requiring removal of the front undertray which is secured by a ridiculous number of bolts.
It's insane on any vehicle to have the oil filter that inaccessible, but on a commercial vehicle you have to think it's a deliberate choice to scam customers in to getting servicing done at a dealer.
In order to replace the cabin air filter on a Ford Taurus you got to remove the entire cowling beneath the front windshield under the hood, a multitude of bolt and clips. On top of that the radio is located in the trunk with the front controls just being a facade with the knobs and buttons, to make it even worse they put a vertical steel support bar right behind it so you can't fit a normal radio there (although some short radios will just squeeze in.)
Fuel economy requires the covers. The T4 5 cylinder had the sump gaurd too. Infact, most trucks also have covers for drain plugs but holes to access to filters if underneath.
For the brake hose: the rubber hose is crimped in the fitting. The crimp is air tight. Adding heat basically causes the rubber to burn (and expand to a gas).... the chain reaction keeps going until the fitting explodes. It's actually super handy for seized flex lines. Put on the safety face shield and ear muffs, add heat, and once she goes bang, the fitting usually comes apart.
I can't believe how difficult it was to change the oil filter. VW dealers must of been rubbing their hands together! Cheers Ed.
My face when he said "the filter is at the top of the engine, and we'll have to take the front of the car off" was... WTF? Who on earth designed that?!
@@GamerSloth2275 It's not that bad. Long shaft on a socket with a wobble connection. Only have to move the reservoir above out of the way. Takes about five minutes on my 2.5.
@@milesslocombe1121 I agree, but every time I do it, I think, this is the last time. But I still have the van.
@@milesslocombe1121 Yeah. That is the way to do it. Not so hard.
@@GamerSloth2275 I think its the same guy that designed the front of the mk3 renault clio, to change a headlight you have to take the front of the car off
Hi Edd and Paul. My suggested top tip is to loosen the oil filter before draining the oil so the contents of the filter housing can drain out. Also, I tend to use a smear of grease on the filter seal instead of oil, handy to keep loose seals in place too.
That oil filter placement seems to be designed for extracting the maximum amount of money from the customer come service time! :D
Yep and the R5 engine was only put in this t5 van and the touareg so they haven't even got the excuse that the location was designed with another engine bay in mind
I've had oil filters in frustratingly hard-to-reach areas, but this is literally CRIMINAL. VW? No thank you, never, ever, ever.
Not realy. You only have to use a 50 cm nut Extension.
It's a VW!
@@ItsFriscoBaby I thought this engine was originally in an Audi, fitted front to back. So the filter would have been on the side.
Petronas ad: Skipped over, didn't watch, will now NEVER EVER buy any Petronas oil, have adblocker, so won't see any other ads either. Just pure content, and I thank you! Well, I thank me a little bit.
So long as you buy the latest 'API'certified Oil that's backwards compatible with your Vehicle, then your good to go and ahead of the curve, even helping the Engine, but Frequent oil changes are the way to go, especially on Diesels or cars with Turbos what with generate internal crankcase pressures and ,Oil Dilution on Diesels, products of combustion enter the sump and turn the oil into soup, degrading same for a past time, then that stuff is then circulated through EGR Valves on those small High revving Engines, the worst being the Worst...like those Ford ECO-Bomb Engines. Edd could have serviced the Inter cooler and Oil cooler and Rad matrix fins, with the front off and those parts exposed by cleaning the crud off same but i'm sure he will get around same in another programme, great Upload...
Let's take this opportunity to thank VW for encouraging people to expedite the transition to electric vehicles.
Screw that.
Haha Marcus. A famous 'merican once said quite vociferously... ( That posh speak for LOUD )
YOU CANNOT BE SERIOUS !
Being serious, EVs can only ever be a small part of the answer to Energy Use problems.
I was just about to say that. Not having to service the van with such tight tolerances will make life of the owner so much easier!
Lol, there will just be new ways to make money out of you fear not.
@@NealyLL Yes, I blame you for giving Porsche and Hyundai that idea where they have a scheduled service for their EVs.
This gives a whole new outlook on the appeal on van-life
Hi Edd & Paul. Interesting to see the work on your VW van. I used to service the earlier FWD Transporters, 2.4 diesel. On those the oil filter was on the back of the engine, and the radiator pack swivelled out to improve access. So much for product improvement, it all looked far more cramped on yours!! Keep up the good work. Steve.
50th birthday actually. I just watched that episode again a few days ego ( Volvo P1800 )
One point is you should have put the new sensor through the oil level test also. That way you might know that the old one is bad or the new one isn't BIBed.
In the real world people will simply change the sensor / switch and not piss about doing all that under the van on their drive.
@@gegwen7440 the real world sucks.
Top tip of the week.
Never watch Edd China's Workshop Diaries while you drive.
I did and the result was good and bad.
The bad?
I died in a car accident.
The good?
They DO have the internet in Heaven.
And I am telling everyone up here about your great channel, Edd.
So, hopefully, we will help you get to that magic 1 million subscribers number.
☮
"Ease of routine maintenance" was clearly not high on the list of design criteria for that vehicle. The designers should be forced to change the switches, oil and filter at least twice, in a hurry.
Seriously, there are oil analysis services available for aero engines. They run the used oil through spectrometers, &c., looking for unwelcime developments like the appearance of bearing or cam lobe metal in it. Have you any experience with these services?
I have heard the opinion that car engines in normal operation generate too much metal to make the testing worthwhile. (Too much noise to see a signal.) What's your opinion?
It's a car engine in a van it has to be deep in.
To determine the change time of oil usually TBN (Total Base Number) is determined, on large (truck, bus and larger) engines where a lot of oil is used and thus it makes sense to do the test. Spectrometry is used to indicate the wear of certain components, again on large engines where components are expensive. The car engine actually wears less than the aero engine (the aero engine's life is expressed in hours after all, not thousands of hours though).
The best application of spectrometry, radiation or other oil test is in engine development where we need to determine component durability.
Classic illustration of "the more there is the more there is to go wrong". I have never heard of a dip stick going wrong.
Customer: "I'm here for an oil change."
Garage: "What kind of vehicle do you have?"
Customer: "A VW van."
Garage: "That'll be $1600 and you can pick it up next week."
Customer: „ok, you must be a FORD mechanic“
The results are in:
Best lighting
Best sound
Best music
Best cinematography
Best production and editing
Best content!
Thank you to the entire team for this wonderful automotive content.
All is good
I wonder.... how long was the meeting where VW had to find new and inventive places to hide an oil filter?
#syntium
3 days meeting with the decision to shove it where the sun dont shine
Loving the "blip vert" commentary as usual!
50% infomercial but somehow, it's all authentic. Great channel. I'm not into cars as such, but enjoy watching folks making busted things work properly again.
Here's to the 1,000,000th subscriber! 🥳
Great episode, Edd. Paul had an easy day on this one. Here’s a top tip for oil changes on newer vehicles: push the accelerator to the floor while cranking the engine. The engine won’t fire as it spins and will allow time for oil to fill the filter and build up oil pressure.
These episodes are amazing , thank you edd for making these
いつのまにか、日本語字幕が❣️
Thank you❣️from JAPAN🇯🇵
Excellent engineering done: need to remove the bumper and one intercooler to change just the oil filter? What they were thinking?
No, I do not know why Edd would do that. It is not necessary!
@@steinlarsen8573 Changed the oil pressure switch at the same time
@@whitemonkey7932 I know, but someone asked why remove the bumper to change oilfilter.
I change my oil and I never do that
For them who wondered whats the text at 31:08 min : Don't worry Edd, 4.3 million men in the UK also suffer from this problem... And at 31:23 it says: Well, whatever it takes. You always seem to come up with the best solutions.
5:05 - Not exactly a Top Tip here... I've never used flushing oil, but when doing a change I always left the drain plug out after removing the old stuff and tipped in the remains of the previous 5 litre container - usually about half a litre of brand new oil that I hadn't needed (the sump + filter held just over 4 litres so there was always a bit left over).
Whilst obviously not a full engine flush, it was still satisfying to see this old but unused oil pushing the very last of the horrible black sludge out of the drain hole.
Using the oil left over from the previous change meant that I wasn't introducing any harsh cleaning agents, disturbing any bearings, or risking damaging any flexible seals.
When everything running out was bright yellow/green and clean, I then felt a lot happier about swapping the filter and filling up with new oil, knowing that it wouldn't be clogged with last year's sludge as soon as the engine turned over.
Every little helps...🙂
In most engines it's a pretty short trip from oil filler to drain plug, pouring some clean oil in isn't doing anything like s flush, your just, if you are lucky getting a bit more oil out of the sump, not out of the oil ways, pump, or anywhere else. You'd probably do better just slightly reducing the oil change intervals.
Nice like this idea..
I think it will remove that last 1 or l/2 litre that sits on the bottom of the..which can only be a good thing.....
I agree with Hector.
Reduce your oil intervals....that way the old oil will be in better condition...
@Elli P if there's still oil dripping out I've always done the same as you. I get where Hector is coming from as you won't remove much additional ditty oil apart from a skim at the bottom of the sump but as you say, every little helps!
Another good tip is to drop the oil when it's murderously hot and thin. Just wear gloves and cover your arms in something that won't readily soak up oil or something you can remove very quickly should the need arise. An old jumper or overall arm tucked into a glove can be handy if access means you might get slathered in hot oil otherwise!
This is so good, and especially the bit about how the sensor works. With a more advanced scope like a Rigol, perhaps you could have decoded that signal.
Thank god this show exists instead of wheeler dealers, so we can have some more indepth technical stuff,
All that to change the oil filter?! Madness!
Don’t ever look up how to change the headlight bulbs on a Renault Modus…
I never minded pulling the bumper on my Audi to do repairs. Pulling it to change the oil filter though is a step too far. At least it has a long service interval!
@@thomasfrederiksendk Renault is French. You sound surprised.
@@patagualianmostly7437 Yes and no. Renault has tended to be the less insane French company. I was disappointed more than surprised - and quite chuffed that it wasn't my car.
Love your tip odf using a piece of hose to re attach the oil pressure sensor switch. That should have been in your top tips session.
I wonder whether the location of that oil filter was an afterthought by the VW design engineers. That's a relatively involved process for something that simple.. Thanks, guys.
That was the politest way I've heard of saying to the VW design engineers, "You guys are a bunch of idiots!"
@@pglick123 lol
Ok going to be controversial here.
Considering VW was involved in diesel - gate it's clear the engineers do not necessarily think about the customer or techinican experience.
Is it intentional?
Or was Diesel Gate pro customer. helping them out...?
We used your pressurising oil gun to recharge the undercarriage oleos on Buccaneer aircraft back in the day! If memory serves me right we had to achieve 1500psi on the nose and even higher on the main undercarriage. I haven't seen one since 1993! Keep up the good work!
As the owner of my own workshop I find it incredibly interesting seeing the inventive ways Ed finds to test certain components, however I think its important to manage peoples expectations of their local workshop, it is totally unrealistic to expect the guys in your local garage to go out, source plastic jugs, spend the time ( prob a few hours in reality) fitting components into them setting up a scope and there is no way any tech worth his money would waste his brew whilst it was hot. Only to end up saying well we don’t actually know exactly what the system really expects so we’ll change it out anyway. I’m very lucky in the respect I have a friend who is very much like Ed and enjoys faffing and owns a pico scope. So if I get a fault that the code reader is a bit vague about I can give him a call, he comes down, we have a breakfast roll and a brew, he has access to an online database of expected signals on various sensors on various vehicles so he can see what is expected of that sensor and he knows how to test it at the ecu plug so this proves the sensor and its wiring. If a sensor is bad at the ecu you simply test it at the sensor end if it’s still bad then the sensor is shot if it’s good then the wiring needs looking at. I know I’m really lucky having someone like this who can help me for the cost of a Butty leaving me free to carry on earning money for the garage.
Indeed this is true..
I would think this format is for the YT DIY enthusiasts home servicing.
But as EDD has a couple of brains cells he can rig up a test bed to explain what exactly is going on.
This is in keeping with the true EDD explanatory format but also allowing others some top tips in helping with diagnostics....
..I too was outraged @ that wasted cup 'o tea..
scandalous!
#tea-gate
Hi, thanks for the great show.
I'm a tech here in Sweden and with our road conditions (heavy salting etc) i'm used with everyting about rust ( rusty brake lines for example). About that blown brake hose. Thats what happens when heating it. Try it on a loose one on the bench and that will happen. I guess its something with tight press fit that will make it bang.
Keep upp the spannering/ Peter Andersson
Just like Peter over vere says, have happened to me several times. I even tried cutting the brakeline in the middle before heating it, but still blows of with a loud bang.
It always amazes me how inaccessible even regular service points are on modern engines. The Citroën BX was famous (forty years ago) for only needing 2,5 hours for most services - if it takes bumper and intercooler disassembly just to change the oil filter, then that is already 15 to 20 minutes of your service time gone...
Have you heard of a ford fusion
suv ? Well apparently it take 9 hours
to remove if it needs servicing trans
or tranfercase. , just think of the high
costs b4 you even start at the
Dealership, shocking stuff.
Maybe do a class action against
Ford for bad design ??, lol.
Not every engine, my Octavia RS with EA888 Gen 3 has the filter on top. With plastic sump you only need one flathead screwdriver and a socket to do the oil change :D
Many years ago I had a Triumph GT6. Along with the Spitfire it must have been the easiest car to work on. Release two catches and I could open up the whole front end, sit on the front wheel and work on the completely exposed engine and front suspension.
@@raytrevor1 👍 …and the Herald/Vitesse…same system. The original Frogeye Sprite was somewhat similar….
Please continue with your weekly videos. I've missed them do much
"If only everything in life was as reliable as a Volkswagen" -- remember that one? Obviously, not so true today.
I had a central locking fault on my T5 . In fact it locked the van with the keys in . Long story but I eventually found that the switch in the drivers door was at fault . At least the PCB was. When you have the window open and it rains it gets wet and the PCB tracks corrode. Just something else to check . Enjoying the videos.
PCB?
@@krimke881- printed circuit board
Would've been interesting to compare the signals of the old and the new sensor to figure out whether it was faulty or not.
Also using a logic analyser and sigrok to decode the signal might have been interesting, perhaps a cooperation with an electronics channel?
#Syntium
I agree that it would be interesting for educational purposes. But it's a good rule to assume (under these circumstances where a prior fault caused oil and cooling fluid to be mixed), that if one sensor is faulty, then the other sensor is probably also very close to develop a fault.
I would always change both sensors as a precaution.
Diag Dan would be the guy to do a colab with
Best episode in ages. Edd working independently (i.e limited Paul) and not working on that blasted Land Rover (💤). Now please could you get back to the blinking headlights on your mates US car. He must be bored of waiting. 🙏
Thanks for testing the sensors, I always like to do this when possible (as a home mechanic) to understand how they work and if I can confirm the actual fault.
#Syntium
Hello Edd AND Paul! My sons and me were just remarking the other day, after a re-run of that other show you were on, "What has Paul been up to?". Well, I guess we know! You've gotten the shop band back together! Good to see you both!
Nice - reminds me why I won't be buying a VW T5
The rubber hose trick for starting the threads on hard to reach fasters and sensors is a game changer!
Been using that 'trick' for years on spark plugs located in deep recesses.
How to change your oil filter : first remove the front of the vehicle 😱😱😱 .
This is why folk just don't bother doing regular servicing anymore and run the thing into the ground .
Well, whatever it takes. You always seem to come up with the best solutions.
I’d love to see Ed work on a rotary engine , hopefully one day ( if it ain’t a rotor, it ain’t a motor ) 😄😄
Ed🎉😢🎉🎉🎉🎉❤❤😂😢😮😮😅😊❤❤😅😊😊😊❤❤😊😊❤😂😮😅😅😊😅😊❤😊❤😊😮🎉😂91😊😂😂❤😆😝🤪😝🥒😛😳🫲😋😋🥰🥰🥰👍🏿👍🏿😮💨❤️😮💨😢😢😢😢😂😂😊😮😮😢🤧😘💓💓💓💓💓💓💓💓😯💓🫲👌😘😒😒😭😋😉⛳️✊🏿✊🏿🖕🏼🤣🤣🤣😍👌👌🤧🤧😁😒👌🖕🏼🖕🏼😅😅😮😮😢😮😢🎉🎉
Loved the heat shrink tip. Years ago the flexi joint came with a spring wrapped around the joint for the same reason.
why when you have a fault description, of "oil pressure sensor" you changed the level sensor, ? No wonder mechanics are untrusted.
Friday evening is so much awesome with Edd China even if you don't understand what's going on.
This sort of reminds me of older Audi A4s like the B5 and B6/B7 which, when equipped with the 1.8T engine (and perhaps other petrol engines, too) and quattro all-wheel drive, have the fuel filter strapped onto the side of the fuel tank, which requires lowering the entire fuel tank in order to change it.
"Brilliant" piece of engineering.
16:14 Think Paul and you have misunderstood the tip. The way I read it is; you want to push back the piston so instead of “forcing” it back and having the fluid displaced all the way back to the master cylinder with the possibility of inverting seals etc, you push the piston in while cracking open the bleed nipple, which requires less force, fluid immediately behind the piston gets ejected then when piston fully back tighten nipple back up. Then top up master cylinder and flush/bleed as normal if required.
Thats how I read it and in fact did it on my Ford van last week on the offside..
Always do that....plus a bit more, Refreshing the fluid on every pad change can't be a bad thing.
That little oscilloscope is cool! 💥👍🏼👍🏼
Hello Edd
Glad you're back in the saddle again... all you needed to do was make a few adjustments to get your millions of worldwide fans again yes?!
Love your visual explanatory engineering point of view, yes?!
good job and bought your book also! ✌
That feeling of accomplishment & joy you & we got when the light bulb illuminated ;-) love it
All your mechanical efforts have always and still are very appreciated Thank You Edd !!
dear ed, its a powerfull engine and yes it produces a lot of heat. drive it with the oiltemp on the dash.
the heat will break down the oil faster
there is a top garage called redhead technik.also here on youtube they place a big oilcooler on T5's
You and Paul chatting about past wheeler dealer project cars is making me want to dust off my old wheeler dealer DVDs ☺️ Keep up the great work, I've anyways liked the way you explain how things work rather than just chucking on a new part and moving on 👍 #SYNTIUM
Thank you for these videos. Your methodical approach and way of explaining are top class.
That oil filter is just crazy to access.
Good tip on the heat shrink u joint, I've always just used electrical tape.
Sorry but I’m impressed a mechanic knows what a byte and a nibble are. Doesn’t look relevant to this system but, even among nerd types, not many can define a nibble.
Love the oil demo, I used to see a demo toy like that at every auto parts store. The snake oil being sold (remember “Motor Honey”, “STP” etc.?) changed, not the toy.
This show is just fantastic. It's even better than Wheeler dealer!
Just how do you retain your good humour when trying to tackle something recalcitrant while standing on your head, banking on one arm and your hip, realising that there's something sharp digging into your naughty bits?
Under such conditions, I find that I'm quite inventive with colourful and robust language! :-O
Anyhow, good video! I enjoyed it immensely, thank you! :-)
That you have to strip the front of the car for an oil filter is just extraordinary.
Gracias Edd!! Por todo lo que enseñas Saludos de Argentina
Hey Ed, blast from the past here (Southbank days) been following vicariously for years! Keep it up dude 👌
What a great couple! Two top blokes.
Random note Edd, so I final got your book delivered up here to Sonoma California, I read it and what I found interesting is your connection to California even before WD. What fascinated me was the opening of the book where you talk about Idyllwid California! I use to work for a Factory Mazada Race team build stadium off-road truck back in the 80’s there. Good read hope to see you come back out here to Ca!
#syntium This is a fantastic series, we can all see the enthusiasm you two have for motors of any age. I'm on holiday in Tenerife and your show is a great way to unwind at the end of a busy day sunbathing. Can't wait to get home and try out your tips to maintain my own van .Best wishes to the pair of you.
These videos are always well oiled. @/syntium.
Really interesting. Thanks for showing us the oil level sensor. I'd guess it's communicating with the ECU using the 1-wire protocol. A bigger oscilloscope would be able to de-code the signal which may prove more informative.
I take your point that good quality oils are worth spending the extra money. That gear demonstration device was used many years ago to promote an oil additive which was "stickier than normal oil. I noticed that your "good quality oil " did not pour out the container into the funnel with the same degree of stickiness as the oil in the demo device. smoke and mirrors
Exactly! Some folk sell their souls no problems.
Mr China you sir are a legend
Nice to see inner life of oil level and temperature sensor! Great explanations with sensors and bad vs good oil.
Great episode as always and I agree with Paul that 2002 Bentley is absolutely gorgeous.
From my little experience with proximity sensors in 3D printers 0-3.3V is binary 0, above 3.3V is binary 1. 10V on the sensor must do a little bit more than 0-1. I love the way how you tested the oil sensor with a tea. Very British.
Great video edd and paul great way to sort out the van with new oil and good way to show how oil switch works to thanks for showing us guys great show to
Parabéns Eddi..não vejo a hora de ter programasse tv com você..para termos aquela ajuda didática.
Think I will stick with my 1971 T2 after watching all the grief you have with the T5.
Ed is very similar to Prof. Magnus Pyke ! He was tall, thin and arms everywhere, with the eloquence and wit befitting a gentleman !
Back in the good old days I had an EH Holden in Australia. It had so much room I could do all type of servicing in my driveway. There was enough room in the engine bay to have a party. These days I lift the bonnet of my car take a look and close it again.
To change the oil filter you only need to clip out the turbo hose and an extension to screw it off. Everything accessable from the top. For that there is need to take off the front bumper.
@Mck Idyl ruclips.net/video/-n7b3tF0ufU/видео.html
Great video as always Edd.
Speaking from personal experience on my own T5, the oil filter change is a joy to behold in a non joyous sense! 😊 I have now managed to get it changed fairly easily using a ratchet 2 extension bars and 2 flexi joints! Still a complete faff though!
Forte additives had a similar rig to show how effective oil flushes were at getting rid of sludge. My car is 17 years old which still has a yearly oil change regardless of the mileage.
A thing my dad would always say to new mechanics or people working on their own stuff was to buy cheap old spanners whenever you saw them (especially in common sizes) as a sacrificial tool should you find your self in the predicament where access is impossible with your decent tools, be it needing more of an angle of crank on the head or the head being too thick to fit in a gap. You'd much rather bend or grind down an old cheapo spanner than a nice shiny expensive one! He had loads of 'adapted' tools in his box ranging from spanners bent 90 degrees to open ended spanners cut in half that would fit into a gap and onto a nut where you could then get a hammer and drift to loosen it. #Syntium
I do flush the engine during an oil change with Diesel. Keeps the fresh engine oil super clean for longer and doesn't harm the engine components. For a VW T5 which takes 7.4 litres of oil, I use 5.4 litres of a cheaper oil during flush stage and 2 litres of diesel. Run the engine for around 20 minutes at different rev ranges not exceeding 2000 rpm. Drain the flushing oil and Diesel, replace the oil filter with a new one and fill with the recommended oil to the correct level. Adds years to the engine life. Ask an old school Mechanic about this and they will tell you this is what they used to do.
#Syntium
#syntium Hi Edd and Paul. Great to see some more VW content back on the channel. Servicing costs was one of the reasons I bought a 1.9, not a 2.5 T5. Love the show.
Petronas Syntium Oil 5000AV 5w30 Really good oil is well suited to modern VAG engines and other manufacturers. I don’t trust the original oil that is not sold from a dealer, which you can buy from any seller and you can get a fake. I chose Petronas Syntium Oil. I use this oil when I pass half of the service interval.
...and I thought my old Wolseley 24/80 was difficult to service. You've really got to have tiny but powerful hands! Great video. #Syntium
I am sure Ed , you have been watching Ivan' s channel. He is great at diagnostics. Good to see you are doing well ! Greetz John.
Great show Ed! Very interesting to see the sensor being testing and how it behaves. Keep up the good work 👍🏼 #syntium
Brilliant episode... Always a highlight of my Friday night! #Syntium fingers crossed! 🤞🏼
I own a 1973 Volvo 1800ES. Volvo really knew how to make a good looking car back in the day
you always seem to come up with the right solution !!
Loving the content and the witty banter. Long may it continue #Syntium