I love how Edd and Paul had an honest disagreement about checking the brake issue, without making it a fake showbiz act like most would do. Loving this channel.
@@dundundata7603 It would put a tonne of air in your brake system and ABS systems need to be bled differently than conventional brakes. Not to mention you would have to bleed the brakes at least twice and so on. Sorry I escalated guys.
It may not be a popular opinion, but I’ve always thought Paul is the brains behind a lot of these fixes. I know he did a lot of the background research for wheeler dealer purchases, and a lot of the off camera spannering. Good to see him getting the airtime he deserves 👍
I love how ed did not edit out the part about how they have not figured out the problem yet. It humanize the process and sending the message that everything takes time and patience. Thank you ed.
Top tip: when I’m rejoining wires I’ll often offset the joins by cutting one wire shorter than the other. Thins the final result if you don’t have heat-shrink side by side and if for any reason the solder joint rubs it way through the heat shrink less chance of it shorting out.
Folks, Edd China is the worlds greatest mechanical engineer and there is nothing that he can't do. This channel is amazing and its videos will end up on leading television channels around the world and they will surpass the new Wheeler Dealers episodes. Congratulations Edd & Paul, your videos are so informative, well edited and produced. Take care, David Matherson
If you want to do an extra nice job of your connections, you can get some adhesive lined heatshrink instead. It works exactly the same as regular heatshrink, except that the inside is lined with a heat activated glue, such that when you shrink it, it also glues itself together. This makes the joints water proof. Afaik very common in water environments and the aerospace industry.
They make little precut sections with a low temp solder blob in the middle too. You can solder and heat shrink a connection with a ligher. I have a few in my glovebox for emergency repairs.
What I like about this channel is that it’s demystifying what mechanics do to the average person, most of whom can’t tell if what they are being told is accurate or whether they are being done in the brown, but the show also demonstrates how much work and how technical small service jobs can actually be and therefore why they can cost a few quid.
And get a top quality one like Bosch or similar as I've bought new ones that would not work properly as well as pulled off some from junkers that looked terrible that worked perfectly. I got so where I would not put the battery back in the car (located under battery tray on some VW's) until after I tested everything...
G'day Edd from Australia my therapy dog and I both enjoy watching your youtube show and wish you pumped out more episodes more often. My therapy dog Trinity doesn't sit on my lap for many TV/Internet shows. I am a retired mechanic I used to have my own workshop rebuilding Automatic transmissions and Trinity used to hang out in the workshop while I was either working on a auto or doing general mechanical work on customers vehicles. Now I will say why in England would you need A/C lol here in Australia when its above 30 degree's C or sitting in the sun for a long period of time we use our A/C's but generally most people wind a window down below 30 C. Anyhow I have fixed a many broken A/C's on cars over the years and Australia's hot climate is pretty rough on the A/C systems. Usually the three points of failure are 1. Needing to be re gassed which you have done 2.The compressors kicked the bucket but again you have replaced yours. 3. Either a fuse or a electrical relay hope this helps. I have missed your work since you left Wheeler dealers and I am ever so grateful that youtube suggested your channel to me. Take care you legend.
Volkswagen's of that era as t5 uses to have A/C "Relay box" located somewhere near the engine bay, and they tend to fail quite often. Worth checking that Edd. As always brilliant show and keep up the good work.
Those devices for pumping in and out the AC System look really old, like 20 years old, but seem to do the job just perfectly when operated correctly. 10 years ago they refilled the AC for my Golf with one of these robots that do all the operations. I was sure that it was an electrical problem, but it was nice to show how to also refill the AC.
I find it truly amazing how Ed manages to make something as complex as car mechanics seem as easy as drinking a glass of water. P.S: I point out that, from about 32 minutes, the Italian subtitles have been skipped (they become English subtitles)
Top A/C Tip: After checking the fuses, go straight to a visual check of the leads going to the A/C compressor, if they look OK, then put a meter on them.
@@brucewayne2773 in this case a waste of time too....if the pressure switch had been duff he would have to dump a new full charge - you could diag the pressure switch over OBD first, then force the clutch relay on - if your diag cannot do that then there is not much point in buying it.
@@brucewayne2773 you have to bear I. Mind Edd will be catering to some viewers whom are not mechanics and going through the whole diagnostic shee-bang demistifies the whole process. + The format has to be YT friendly because of the [ YT ] algorithm..
I'm so glad I found Edd's new channel in wheelers Dealer's I NVR cared much about the sale of the car but the fixing was the meat and potatoes and I loved watching Edd work I learned a lot....
The message the oscilloscope reads is called Pulse Width Modulation, which is how the CANbus system on modern vehicles communicates. PWM is used for both reading sensors and sending commands to throttle bodies and such, by sending a voltage in a very specific way. It does so by modulating the width of those voltage pulses, hence PWM. It's kind of like digital morse code, but not limited to 2 characters, although the code running the vehicle is of course binary. The ECU does the PWM with a chain of MOSFETs, which are essentially electric gates. It let's the ECU chop the voltage signal up and limit in various ways, to create the signal it wants. The same method is used in many electrical gadgets and equipment when it needs a voltage step-down, step-up or communicate amongst the different parts. This can create problems when using a 12V to 220V converter for example, as the signal it puts out might not be recognised by whatever it is powering, as that is expecting a smooth and clean signal. When it comes to sensors, it reads a voltage between 0,5 and 4,5V. An 02 sensor will change resistance depending on it's exposure to 02 and will change the voltage passed through, which is read by the ECU. In critical components like throttle position sensors, it uses a pair which the ECU cross-checks. One will go from 0,5 to 4,5V, the other 4,5 to 0,5V. This allows the ECU to be sure where the throttle is. To send a signal, the ECU does the opposite and send a specific voltage to a part, like a stepper motor, which than acts accordingly. The pressure sensor for the AC shows 2V, as it needs to be able to tell the ECU that it is either under or over-pressurised. If full showed up as 5V, any more pressure wouldn't be registered. The problem for the owner, is that the system is very sensitive, which means you can't cut into that part of the loom. It also needs reference from all known and required sensors to work, which means that mods are a lot harder, unless you put an aftermarket ECU in. Once the loom is damaged, it has to be replaced as soldering or connectors change the resistance, and since it works by a margin of 0,1V, that matters. Good for gadgets and user friendly interiors, but bad for mechanics and people who like to modify their cars.
Great to see some good problem solving. I guess checking if a signal is getting to the clutch and if the clutch is working is for another episode. Good to see tools and methods that could be applied by many of us. Best episode in a few months. Keep up the good work.
Edd: Top Tip - Don't use solder connections to repair automotive wiring. Use crimp on butt splices with heat shrink seals on the ends instead. Solder on automotive wiring is subject to high vibration and extreme heat/cold cycling which will cause the solder joints to crystallize over time and fail. Also, your salt vinigar solution can wick up inside the insulation and not get flushed out later with the neutralizing solution. Use electrical contact cleaner instead.
Regarding that MX5, check the waterpump- if it’s like many VW and BMW vehicle’s had some time ago there’s a plastic impeller on a metal shaft, different materials expand and contract differently and causes the impeller to crack and slip depending on engine speed causing intermittent overheating. Also remember that some temperature senders only work when immersed in water, if the level is low the gauge may not work.
Thanks for featuring my extended comments and questions on the laser. On the Mazda, IMO Paul got it with the exhaust side head gasket leak. I've had similar long term exhaust-in-to-coolant leaks long term on Nissan and Chrysler four-cylinder engines with nearly exactly the same symptoms. Nostrom "quick fix" radiator "stop leak" cures from the auto parts store (kind that use sodium silicate) can help the owner diagnose, but don't offer a real, long-term fix. On your copper wires, add borax to vinegar instead of table salt: helps with fluxing for solder and requires less cleaning.
Always appreciate Edd's attention to safety. Starting with the gloves of course, and not ending there. No heroics or anything in racking up injuries during the process and showing them off, he dons the gear and makes sure he and everyone does also. A real point of difference with this show; much appreciated. Great work.
Great episode Ed. Thanks for the vinegar and salt tip for cleaning copper and bicarb and water to neutralise. Will try that in future. By the way you can use the vinegar and salt to kill weeds in pathways and on gravel dive-ways. A natural and less toxic solution compared to roundup or other Glyphosate chemical weed killers
Re: rust removal. I know we still call the process sand blasting but I seem to recall that it is now illegal to use sand (or other silicate materials) as the fine dust produced is a serious breathing hazard. I think it should be called grit blasting or media blasting.
no one in the industry uses the term sand, it's called media blasting as there are many different materials used eg peanut shells,glass,garnet etc etc , and one part of ppe is to wear a air fed mask... that's why all the pictures you see of 'sandblasters' look like they are on the bottom of the ocean wearing the old divers suits
I have a VW Touran of a similar vintage, my AC has never worked either. I was hoping you’d find a fix so I could do the same, but looks like I’ll be waiting for another day to come too! Best of luck!
Great show mate, like the diagnostic work show people how to go about it, so it looks like ether the control module depending on how it's controlled but I would have a look at the compressor to see if it engage
When connecting 2 wires together, use the Lineman splice (Or Western Union splice if you are American). It is a super strong connection, that while it does need solder to keep good electrical continuity, doesn't actually need it to remain a strong connection. Also if you tin bare wire it prevents corrosion. I have mentioned this on a previous video and received angry responses to it, something about brittle connections. But It is something that is milspec in the British army (Or so I am told by a friend from BAE) and something that is a must in places where you come into contact with salt water (Sea side, marine, salt belt in the US etc) so it can't be that bad.
At work we had a Ford Galaxy automatic. It had a recurring fault. When you tried to set off it would take 2-3 seconds before the vehicle would move after pressing the accelerator and the air conditioning wouldn't work. I never found out what the link was but both things were corrected (temporarily) at the same time, and reoccured together.
TOP TIP, when bleeding the brakes, prior to starting remove the bleed nipples and wrap PTFE tape around the threads, but be careful not to block the bleed holes, then when bleeding air cannot be sucked back into the system.
I have a problem with my ac and hopping it will be a job for another day. Learning with you the abc of how to discover the issue!! I' ll be waiting for that promised day!! Ed. Another time. Thanks.
Thanks Edd! Watched you work at wheelers dealers in the 2000s I don't have a car, but you make such fascinating videos about seemingly simple things. In addition, thanks to your perfect pronunciation, I learn English by watching your videos with English subtitles)
Great videos. Hats off to you EDD. Mike doesn’t realize what he lost. I watch wheeler dealer. But it was much much better when you and Mike were together.
Another great episode! Thank you Paul and Edd! I had an AC issue with my 2002 MK4 Golf 1.9 TDI PD GT 130. After replacing most of the electrical components, fans, fan controller, fuses etc. I found that on the fan controller there were some corroded wires, once me and my old man repaired them, I had AC again. Hopefully it might be of some use.
Hello Edd & Paul! I am a subscriber from Argentina. I follow every video on your channel... and despite working as a motorcycle mechanic I learn many workshop secrets. Thank you for providing such useful and educational content. I will keep watching them!! Note: Sorry for the google translation!
I had the same issue as Emily in the questions, I had to replace the electric radiator fan as it had seized. When driving along, the air passing through kept it cool, but when idling there was no airflow so it quickly overheated. Might be worth looking at.
Yup mx5's are notorious for there radiator issues if its never been done its likley the plastic bit has a crack in or as above the fans have given up and its overheated
I’m not familiar with Mazdas but on Minis the radiator fan has a two speed resistor that usually fails on the slow speed setting so can let the temperature creep up higher than normal - can be bypassed or replaced
Great show snd enjoy watching. i work on cars and vans for a living. I also work on electrical and aircon systems. I always use manual ac equipment and would like to point out that John did not fully charge the system to 650g. when you recharge the system the hoses in use will all contain liquid refrigerant. I always add 30g per mere of hoses so with my system i add 125g + 650 and then the 125g is then recovered after charging. Also the scales used should be on solid level surface not rocking in the carry case of the scales
Top tip for you edd.. charge the ac system with nitrogen first. Not only will it find any possible leaks,you can olso start the vehicle as test the ac system is working before you vac and re gas.
Hi Edd after Wheeler Dealer was parked up for you and Mike I cried for a week. You both bought some great TV entertainment but like a drug user its was the hit I wanted every week. I see your RUclips Channel has nearly 1m subscribers so all us car junkies are getting what we want. I still love Mike because he teaches how to afford and pay for my supply of cars. Always for me is to move you into the lounge and out out of my computer room so I can sit on the sofa. You bring a bunch of happiness to me every week and I thank you for that Edd Yours always Car Junkie Tim blessed with my king of motoring Edd.
regarding pulling to one side,- i'd start with uneven wear in bottom arm bushes, slight load, weak one moves first + steers car in one direction, full load - both move + balance out steering pull to neutral. brake fluid spilt on one disc only, even when wiped off, can cause a pull [ only had it twice in 40yrs mind]
question 3 , you have to have not only approved lens, you have to have headlight wash and also self leveling, either done via headlight or rear suspension. not illegal in full beam though i think.
Hi Ed & Paul, concerning Peter Forrest question I Suggest to measure brake pressure at four wheels simultaneusly in slow brake and high pressure braking,. In that way you can check if pressure is equal at each side. If not look each pressure lines for bendigs and rear pressure distributor (if it exists). Good luck and regards.
Love the note at 18:18 lol Oi! That's not Terry's that's Edd's! Or at least he's the current custodian of Outspan's original orb of outrageously orange ocular delight. A really fruity piece of automotive oddity. That Mini is no longer a lemon either, thanks to all the work Edd has squeezed into it, peeling back the years of wear and tear. But, a chocolate interior? What a zesty idea... ok we'll stop taking the pith!! Pip, pip!!
Top Tip: When carrying out a wiring repair, as in the outside air temp sensor connector, its a good idea to 'stagger' the joined cables so that one joint is mayby an inch further along the cable to the other joint. Maybe not such an issue when using shrinkwrap as Ed has done, but definately a good idea if you only have insulating tape to wrap around the repair.
Wow. To think of all the times I've stripped out entire fiddly fuse boxes to run a complete fuse check. I never noticed they were open ended so as to get your probes in situ. Thanks Edd
Hi ed i had the same problem and drove me nuts. I decided to pull the switch out an it had a bad pin. I stand there and just had to laugh and got a new switch.
Great series on VWT5, there is rich community of owners here I believe, I like your fault diagnosis with little oscilloscope, keep it going, regards T5 owner
Actually find it really reassuring when big Ed struggles to get to the bottom of issues like this as well. If it had just been a dodgy fuse or a broken sensor I’d have been like ‘yeah right, as if it’s ever that straight forward’ Great upload as always 👍🏻
Great job on the step by step but I would turn on the A/C and see if the belt to the compressor is turning and then check to see if the compressor is running. Good luck but I know you will fix it.
HI edd! If the compressor engages properly when you ask for AC but It doesn't work on cooling the air, try to check the dryer filter. I solved my own issue on AC changing this device that was clogged. Fantastic vídeos! New subscriber!
One of THE most awesome shows on RUclips. Ed is as ingenious as he was on Wheeler Dealers, so glad he is back in the zone. God bless from South Africa 🙏🏿
It's truth time, I'm not really into spanners, engines etc and most of the time I haven't got a clue what you are talking about but somehow these videos are really entertaining.
tip for testing sensors and many other things the size and spacing of the pins is standardised if you go to a scrap yard and cut off a few plugs with different amounts and sizes of pins remove the shells of the plugs and put handy connectors like crocodile clips on the wires the benefits are perfect connection easy to plug in even when you can't see it and no chance of arcing out if it pop's off
When joining wires I tin the ends then bend them into hooks. I hook them together and squeeze the joint with pliers then solder. It is just the method I was taught for electronics work.
I had a similar problem on a old saab of mine (2007 93). After hours of nothing I discovered that the signal wire from the body computer to the relay had a break in it somewhere in the loom as there was no continuity. So I ran a new wire, tucked it all away and had many cold journeys going forward 😊
Same thing in the traiblazer I bought used- bought it in November so I never thought to check the AC systerm. Also found a break in the intake temp sensor wiring in the same spot, so I was able to remove the jumper wire I had put in and patch it back up properly!
It may just be an editing thing, but I'd expect your coolant temp to be off minimum if the van had been running for a good while at around 35:51? Could the coolant temp sensor be faulty and inhibiting the AC? (I think they're usually independent but you never know). If you vac the system out again, does the signal from that pressure switch change, or could you put a new one in a similarly pressurised vessel and check the readings are roughly the same? Could you try triggering the AC compressor manually somehow to check it would function with a 'go' signal from the ECU? Similarly checking there is a signal trying to activate the compressor, relay or something. Hope you find it soon! I find most jobs even long ones are bearable if there's plenty of Tea :)
@@eddchina I had this issue on my 2.5 axd , there was a temp/pressure sensor mounted on the ac pipe from the compressor that was faulty and also the pins on the plug that connected to it were corroded , low down next to the oil filter that you changed .
You could do with reading the van with a better code reader really Edd. Look at the live data in the hevac module. The hi / low pressure switch I think vw call it the G63 sensor, I’ve changed a few in the past on various vw Audi group vehicles over the years, I’m pretty sure you can change the sensor without degassing the ac system.
I wonder why you haven’t checked the electronic clutch of the AC compressor. That would be my first place to look. Since even with or without gas in the system, when you call for the AC to turn on, it should connect the clutch to turn the compressor.
Normally you should even hear the compressor kick in when the AC button is pressed (audible even over the engine idle sound, quite a loud tick in some cars).
John Hardcastle i dont know the specifics of every car manufacturer, but I can assure you that in all cars, the AC needs some sort of clutch to disconnect the compressor when you turn the AC off. So whatever is the specific of that particular model, that would be the most logical place to start. Because no matter what car it is and wether the system has a full charge of gas or not, the moment you press the button, you can hear the load increase of the compressor and the engine revving up to keep up with the demand. But anyways... thanks John for your Input, all of us here like to learn new things and I didn’t know the vw didn’t have the traditional style clutch. I guess I’ll wait for the next episode to find out how it works.
Hi Edd, 10:36 I do not think a continuity test would work here, since you could also measure the continuity in the other half of the circuit, so the continuity of the battery. It would make more sense to measure the voltage to ground at one side of the fuse and on the other. If there is voltage on one side, but not on the other, the fuse is broken. Greetings from Germany, Kai
There's Bus Grease Monkey, Grease Junkie, and Drain Addict. Man oh man you guys! I like the new intro way better than all that crashing and banging before.. but hey that's me.
Id look at replacing the pressure switch you looked that. Had the exact same problem as you in my Golf TDI a full AC system outside temp reader was working but the AC wouldn't blow cold. Replaced that sensor and worked right away.
I would be straight at the pump. Ed says it was replaced but it might be a bad clutch. Check see if its getting power when the ac is switched on to rule out power issue. Only nightmare is that if the clutch is bad then I am not sure if there is enough room to remove the clutch with the pump in situ so all that fresh r134 is going to need to be drained again.
Top tip: By soldering a multi wire (twin or more wires in one cable) always cut wires unevenly. In case the isolation got damaged, it will not short the wires. Basically it only can short to ground, if the insulation is damaged. 😉
Possibly the clutch on the compressor Edd, had it on a car not so long ago, same thing as you, everything on the vehicle reckoned it was all working, but the clutch had failed.
Top tip: if you find something that is not working that could even remotely have anything to do with the problem you are trying to solve then fix that first. Further, even if it can't possibly have anything to do with the problem at hand, fix it any first anyway. Nine times out of ten that will solve the main problem. Obviously this case here was the one out of ten. With modern control system it is very very difficult to see what is causing what when it is functioning correctly, next to impossible when something is not working as it should be.
For the vehicle pulling while braking: if it has rear drum brakes they could be out of adjustment. One rear brake applies instantly while the other is not. Under heavy braking the front calipers do almost all the braking so it will feel fine.
Just had my weekly fix from Edd and Paul. I just tried the vinegar and salt to repair my dodgy headlight connection on my MGB with top results...Cheers. Which leads me to another question, concerning the oil cooler pipes on the MGB. Why does the oil cooler pipes travel up through the radiator mount and then down to the cooler? Because when you change the oil all the old oil doesn't really empty.
With Peter Forrests brake issues it would be worth checking the sliders as well is one side is smoother than the other they may come on slightly earlier in light braking.
The one quick check you haven't done, and is, I would have thought, the place to start, the electro magnet on the clutch on the compressor and the power supply to it. The clutch is a simple continuity test with a test lamp and the supply would indicate a more complex issue. Disconecting the magnet lead would also highlight if the CMC recognises the magnet fault. These are one on the things that the computers and until very recently the CAN bus do not interstate and report on. One other thing is if the compressor is on a separate drive belt, is it broken. I've instances of all of these. These days it is so easy to go racing for the reader before thinking what the system can't tell you. Some automatic gear boxes do not monitor slip in the convertor clutch. Try arguing with a Ford technician that the convertor clutch is stuffed, them saying the computer says there nothing in the report and you having to explain that it is not part of the slip codes and that you know it is the convertor clutch because it engages at 72 kph and it almost shakes the car to peaces and if you move the selector sideways with disengages the convertor clutch, it stops. I have had gear boxes that would not engage, nothing on the reader, the cable had poped off. Also had warning light everywhere because the serpentine belt took a walk in the park because of a defective (work out) tensioner. Occam's razor some what paraphrased try the simple (read things the computer can't see) first. It the things the 'technicans' can't find. The things that are slipping into to forgotten arts the we all used to fix mechanical things before electronics and software, look, listen, feel, smell. (P.S. turning the R134a bottle upside down works when you can't engage the compressor. If you can, you can't do it, you have to use the bottle right way up and low side injection to. If you stick liquid into the low side, you will get liquid slugging and wreck (I want to use other 4 letter words more appropriate for the workshop environment) the compressor. Not trying to tell you how to suck egg Ed because you undoubtedly know this with your background, hence the very specific weigh of gas requirements. In the time of R12 gas (if we has the same recovery requirements then as today we could be still using it, higher specific heat, lower liquid pressures lower horsepower requirements for the same job) we would just add it until the bubbles stopped appearing in the sight glass) Go using carbon dioxide as a refrigerant gas. P.P.S you can change the magnet in place without degassing. Fiddled with lots of sharing but saves the cost, trouble and environment.
I love how Edd and Paul had an honest disagreement about checking the brake issue, without making it a fake showbiz act like most would do. Loving this channel.
I was surprised to hear Edd give such a bad suggestion lol. Glad Paul was like "no, no, nononono.... no" XD
@@groundcontrol6876 probably fine when you live in the countryside, but Paul looking out
@@dundundata7603 It would put a tonne of air in your brake system and ABS systems need to be bled differently than conventional brakes. Not to mention you would have to bleed the brakes at least twice and so on. Sorry I escalated guys.
In Hollywood Paul would have walked up on stage and slapped Edd in the face then screamed at him from the audience about it 🤣
It may not be a popular opinion, but I’ve always thought Paul is the brains behind a lot of these fixes. I know he did a lot of the background research for wheeler dealer purchases, and a lot of the off camera spannering. Good to see him getting the airtime he deserves 👍
I love how ed did not edit out the part about how they have not figured out the problem yet.
It humanize the process and sending the message that everything takes time and patience.
Thank you ed.
As you’re watching this, John and I are still under the van, trying to figure it out!
@@eddchina did you check the compressor EDD?
What? You mean you can't do frame off restore a car in a week? That's what makes Ed's shows great, keeping the 'real' in reality.
Ah spoiler alert 😂
Compressor clutch?🤔
Top tip: when I’m rejoining wires I’ll often offset the joins by cutting one wire shorter than the other. Thins the final result if you don’t have heat-shrink side by side and if for any reason the solder joint rubs it way through the heat shrink less chance of it shorting out.
I always feel disappointed when I hear Edd say...."and that is a job for another day" 😕 😞 great video lads!
Woord I’m like NOOOOO now I have to wait another week or god knows how long :(
Folks, Edd China is the worlds greatest mechanical engineer and there is nothing that he can't do. This channel is amazing and its videos will end up on leading television channels around the world and they will surpass the new Wheeler Dealers episodes. Congratulations Edd & Paul, your videos are so informative, well edited and produced. Take care, David Matherson
It is such a fine thing that super qualified people like Edd, Paul and John are around. Hats off for the practical people.
If you want to do an extra nice job of your connections, you can get some adhesive lined heatshrink instead. It works exactly the same as regular heatshrink, except that the inside is lined with a heat activated glue, such that when you shrink it, it also glues itself together. This makes the joints water proof.
Afaik very common in water environments and the aerospace industry.
They make little precut sections with a low temp solder blob in the middle too. You can solder and heat shrink a connection with a ligher. I have a few in my glovebox for emergency repairs.
What I like about this channel is that it’s demystifying what mechanics do to the average person, most of whom can’t tell if what they are being told is accurate or whether they are being done in the brown, but the show also demonstrates how much work and how technical small service jobs can actually be and therefore why they can cost a few quid.
Love how honest this show is. Not every repair attempt ends in a satisfying result. But with some more sleuthing, Edd will get there!
i like how the error messages are eliminated, and yet the AC is non-functional
The fan control module is a known issue for VWs. It controls the AC and doesn't give error codes.
exactly the same on audi and porsche - a little blue speed reg which can give AC control unit issues
And get a top quality one like Bosch or similar as I've bought new ones that would not work properly as well as pulled off some from junkers that looked terrible that worked perfectly. I got so where I would not put the battery back in the car (located under battery tray on some VW's) until after I tested everything...
G'day Edd from Australia my therapy dog and I both enjoy watching your youtube show and wish you pumped out more episodes more often. My therapy dog Trinity doesn't sit on my lap for many TV/Internet shows. I am a retired mechanic I used to have my own workshop rebuilding Automatic transmissions and Trinity used to hang out in the workshop while I was either working on a auto or doing general mechanical work on customers vehicles. Now I will say why in England would you need A/C lol here in Australia when its above 30 degree's C or sitting in the sun for a long period of time we use our A/C's but generally most people wind a window down below 30 C. Anyhow I have fixed a many broken A/C's on cars over the years and Australia's hot climate is pretty rough on the A/C systems. Usually the three points of failure are 1. Needing to be re gassed which you have done 2.The compressors kicked the bucket but again you have replaced yours. 3. Either a fuse or a electrical relay hope this helps. I have missed your work since you left Wheeler dealers and I am ever so grateful that youtube suggested your channel to me. Take care you legend.
Volkswagen's of that era as t5 uses to have A/C "Relay box" located somewhere near the engine bay, and they tend to fail quite often. Worth checking that Edd. As always brilliant show and keep up the good work.
I won't pretend to know anything about the particular vehicle but my thought the moment the fuses came back fine was relays
Any idea what relay it is,cheers.
Compressor clutch solenoid or relay would be the 1st place I would start with the ac
My thoughts too, especially when they were listening for the change in idle speed or exhaust tone with the extra load of the compressor.
Rainman Ray covers almost identical braking problems in one of his recent videos. Like Paul suggested, it was a sticky caliper
Those devices for pumping in and out the AC System look really old, like 20 years old, but seem to do the job just perfectly when operated correctly. 10 years ago they refilled the AC for my Golf with one of these robots that do all the operations. I was sure that it was an electrical problem, but it was nice to show how to also refill the AC.
I find it truly amazing how Ed manages to make something as complex as car mechanics seem as easy as drinking a glass of water.
P.S: I point out that, from about 32 minutes, the Italian subtitles have been skipped (they become English subtitles)
As a refrigeration engineer it's been a few years since I've seen a mighty atom reclaim machine! Brings back some memories
Top A/C Tip: After checking the fuses, go straight to a visual check of the leads going to the A/C compressor, if they look OK, then put a meter on them.
Testing the fuses is a good thing, but is there also voltage on it?
If they don't hear any change when the A/C comes on, that suggests that they either have a compressor issue or a silent compressor.
Agreed with you a 100%. Edd just trying to add to his footage by doing all the unnecessary diagnosis. He always does that, it drives me nuts.
@@brucewayne2773 in this case a waste of time too....if the pressure switch had been duff he would have to dump a new full charge - you could diag the pressure switch over OBD first, then force the clutch relay on - if your diag cannot do that then there is not much point in buying it.
@@brucewayne2773 you have to bear I. Mind Edd will be catering to some viewers whom are not mechanics and going through the whole diagnostic shee-bang demistifies the whole process.
+ The format has to be YT friendly because of the [ YT ] algorithm..
I'm so glad I found Edd's new channel in wheelers Dealer's I NVR cared much about the sale of the car but the fixing was the meat and potatoes and I loved watching Edd work I learned a lot....
The message the oscilloscope reads is called Pulse Width Modulation, which is how the CANbus system on modern vehicles communicates.
PWM is used for both reading sensors and sending commands to throttle bodies and such, by sending a voltage in a very specific way. It does so by modulating the width of those voltage pulses, hence PWM. It's kind of like digital morse code, but not limited to 2 characters, although the code running the vehicle is of course binary. The ECU does the PWM with a chain of MOSFETs, which are essentially electric gates. It let's the ECU chop the voltage signal up and limit in various ways, to create the signal it wants.
The same method is used in many electrical gadgets and equipment when it needs a voltage step-down, step-up or communicate amongst the different parts. This can create problems when using a 12V to 220V converter for example, as the signal it puts out might not be recognised by whatever it is powering, as that is expecting a smooth and clean signal.
When it comes to sensors, it reads a voltage between 0,5 and 4,5V. An 02 sensor will change resistance depending on it's exposure to 02 and will change the voltage passed through, which is read by the ECU. In critical components like throttle position sensors, it uses a pair which the ECU cross-checks. One will go from 0,5 to 4,5V, the other 4,5 to 0,5V. This allows the ECU to be sure where the throttle is. To send a signal, the ECU does the opposite and send a specific voltage to a part, like a stepper motor, which than acts accordingly.
The pressure sensor for the AC shows 2V, as it needs to be able to tell the ECU that it is either under or over-pressurised. If full showed up as 5V, any more pressure wouldn't be registered.
The problem for the owner, is that the system is very sensitive, which means you can't cut into that part of the loom. It also needs reference from all known and required sensors to work, which means that mods are a lot harder, unless you put an aftermarket ECU in. Once the loom is damaged, it has to be replaced as soldering or connectors change the resistance, and since it works by a margin of 0,1V, that matters.
Good for gadgets and user friendly interiors, but bad for mechanics and people who like to modify their cars.
Great to see some good problem solving. I guess checking if a signal is getting to the clutch and if the clutch is working is for another episode. Good to see tools and methods that could be applied by many of us. Best episode in a few months. Keep up the good work.
Ed. Thank you all of your videos that you produce. I live my garage life through as I don't have a garage. Keep it up mate. Cheers.
Edd: Top Tip - Don't use solder connections to repair automotive wiring. Use crimp on butt splices with heat shrink seals on the ends instead. Solder on automotive wiring is subject to high vibration and extreme heat/cold cycling which will cause the solder joints to crystallize over time and fail. Also, your salt vinigar solution can wick up inside the insulation and not get flushed out later with the neutralizing solution. Use electrical contact cleaner instead.
Regarding that MX5, check the waterpump- if it’s like many VW and BMW vehicle’s had some time ago there’s a plastic impeller on a metal shaft, different materials expand and contract differently and causes the impeller to crack and slip depending on engine speed causing intermittent overheating. Also remember that some temperature senders only work when immersed in water, if the level is low the gauge may not work.
Thanks for featuring my extended comments and questions on the laser.
On the Mazda, IMO Paul got it with the exhaust side head gasket leak. I've had similar long term exhaust-in-to-coolant leaks long term on Nissan and Chrysler four-cylinder engines with nearly exactly the same symptoms. Nostrom "quick fix" radiator "stop leak" cures from the auto parts store (kind that use sodium silicate) can help the owner diagnose, but don't offer a real, long-term fix.
On your copper wires, add borax to vinegar instead of table salt: helps with fluxing for solder and requires less cleaning.
I would check if you have a supply on the AC compressor electromagnetic clutch.
I wanted to tell you how much we enjoyed the show in Cuenca Ecuador
Always appreciate Edd's attention to safety. Starting with the gloves of course, and not ending there. No heroics or anything in racking up injuries during the process and showing them off, he dons the gear and makes sure he and everyone does also. A real point of difference with this show; much appreciated. Great work.
Refreshing to see it not getting fixed straight away. Loving this, plus owning a T5 myself, makes it more special. 👍👍👍
Great episode Ed.
Thanks for the vinegar and salt tip for cleaning copper and bicarb and water to neutralise.
Will try that in future.
By the way you can use the vinegar and salt to kill weeds in pathways and on gravel dive-ways. A natural and less toxic solution compared to roundup or other Glyphosate chemical weed killers
Re: rust removal. I know we still call the process sand blasting but I seem to recall that it is now illegal to use sand (or other silicate materials) as the fine dust produced is a serious breathing hazard. I think it should be called grit blasting or media blasting.
no one in the industry uses the term sand,
it's called media blasting as there are many different materials used eg peanut shells,glass,garnet etc etc ,
and one part of ppe is to wear a air fed mask...
that's why all the pictures you see of 'sandblasters' look like they are on the bottom of the ocean wearing the old divers suits
I have a VW Touran of a similar vintage, my AC has never worked either. I was hoping you’d find a fix so I could do the same, but looks like I’ll be waiting for another day to come too! Best of luck!
Great show mate, like the diagnostic work show people how to go about it, so it looks like ether the control module depending on how it's controlled but I would have a look at the compressor to see if it engage
When connecting 2 wires together, use the Lineman splice (Or Western Union splice if you are American). It is a super strong connection, that while it does need solder to keep good electrical continuity, doesn't actually need it to remain a strong connection.
Also if you tin bare wire it prevents corrosion. I have mentioned this on a previous video and received angry responses to it, something about brittle connections. But It is something that is milspec in the British army (Or so I am told by a friend from BAE) and something that is a must in places where you come into contact with salt water (Sea side, marine, salt belt in the US etc) so it can't be that bad.
Great video. Every step so well explained, especially liked the bit about the pressure switch. Can't wait for the next part.
At work we had a Ford Galaxy automatic. It had a recurring fault. When you tried to set off it would take 2-3 seconds before the vehicle would move after pressing the accelerator and the air conditioning wouldn't work. I never found out what the link was but both things were corrected (temporarily) at the same time, and reoccured together.
TOP TIP, when bleeding the brakes, prior to starting remove the bleed nipples and wrap PTFE tape around the threads, but be careful not to block the bleed holes, then when bleeding air cannot be sucked back into the system.
I have a problem with my ac and hopping it will be a job for another day. Learning with you the abc of how to discover the issue!!
I' ll be waiting for that promised day!! Ed. Another time. Thanks.
Great video as always but I would have thought an early place to start was the A/C compressor magnetic clutch?
I suspect the clutch too. Had a thermal fuse fail on a Mondeo MK3 stopping the clutch engaging.
Volkswagen compressors are direct drive
@@nickspera97 I must have a magnetic clutch to disengage the pump?
(Turn AC on or off?)
I also suspect the magnetic clutch isnt working..
@@nickspera97 direct drive didn't come in 'til later.
Thanks Edd!
Watched you work at wheelers dealers in the 2000s
I don't have a car, but you make such fascinating videos about seemingly simple things.
In addition, thanks to your perfect pronunciation, I learn English by watching your videos with English subtitles)
The code -reader - the best friend of a vw owner. All you ever hear about VW ownership is 'common faults'.
Great videos. Hats off to you EDD. Mike doesn’t realize what he lost. I watch wheeler dealer. But it was much much better when you and Mike were together.
I only watched it for Edd back in the day. 😜 Couldn't stand Ent or Ant.
Another great episode! Thank you Paul and Edd! I had an AC issue with my 2002 MK4 Golf 1.9 TDI PD GT 130. After replacing most of the electrical components, fans, fan controller, fuses etc. I found that on the fan controller there were some corroded wires, once me and my old man repaired them, I had AC again. Hopefully it might be of some use.
Hello Edd & Paul! I am a subscriber from Argentina.
I follow every video on your channel... and despite working as a motorcycle mechanic I learn many workshop secrets. Thank you for providing such useful and educational content.
I will keep watching them!!
Note: Sorry for the google translation!
I had the same issue as Emily in the questions, I had to replace the electric radiator fan as it had seized. When driving along, the air passing through kept it cool, but when idling there was no airflow so it quickly overheated. Might be worth looking at.
I had the same issue, but the solution was a fan relay.
Yes, radiator fan (or relay or fuse) would be my first guess.
Yup mx5's are notorious for there radiator issues if its never been done its likley the plastic bit has a crack in or as above the fans have given up and its overheated
I’m not familiar with Mazdas but on Minis the radiator fan has a two speed resistor that usually fails on the slow speed setting so can let the temperature creep up higher than normal - can be bypassed or replaced
Same fault, but the cause was the thermo switch had failed, so the fan would not turn on.
This series on the T5 makes me really glad I have a T4.
Lol!
that tiny oscilloscope is the mvp, so cool!!
Great show snd enjoy watching. i work on cars and vans for a living. I also work on electrical and aircon systems. I always use manual ac equipment and would like to point out that John did not fully charge the system to 650g. when you recharge the system the hoses in use will all contain liquid refrigerant. I always add 30g per mere of hoses so with my system i add 125g + 650 and then the 125g is then recovered after charging. Also the scales used should be on solid level surface not rocking in the carry case of the scales
Top tip for you edd.. charge the ac system with nitrogen first. Not only will it find any possible leaks,you can olso start the vehicle as test the ac system is working before you vac and re gas.
Edd checks three fuses just for his A/C, my old Land Rover SIIA only had two fuses for the entire vehicle! ;-)
I'm watching this with my dad this morning
Hi Edd after Wheeler Dealer was parked up for you and Mike I cried for a week. You both bought some great TV entertainment but like a drug user its was the hit I wanted every week. I see your RUclips Channel has nearly 1m subscribers so all us car junkies are getting what we want. I still love Mike because he teaches how to afford and pay for my supply of cars. Always for me is to move you into the lounge and out out of my computer room so I can sit on the sofa. You bring a bunch of happiness to me every week and I thank you for that Edd
Yours always Car Junkie Tim blessed with my king of motoring Edd.
The best of the car mechanic shows. Does what it says on the tin and very informative.
regarding pulling to one side,- i'd start with uneven wear in bottom arm bushes, slight load, weak one moves first + steers car in one direction, full load - both move + balance out steering pull to neutral. brake fluid spilt on one disc only, even when wiped off, can cause a pull [ only had it twice in 40yrs mind]
question 3 , you have to have not only approved lens, you have to have headlight wash and also self leveling, either done via headlight or rear suspension. not illegal in full beam though i think.
Hi Ed & Paul, concerning Peter Forrest question I Suggest to measure brake pressure at four wheels simultaneusly in slow brake and high pressure braking,. In that way you can check if pressure is equal at each side.
If not look each pressure lines for bendigs and rear pressure distributor (if it exists).
Good luck and regards.
Love the note at 18:18 lol
Oi! That's not Terry's that's Edd's! Or at least he's the current custodian of Outspan's original orb of outrageously orange ocular delight. A really fruity piece of automotive oddity. That Mini is no longer a lemon either, thanks to all the work Edd has squeezed into it, peeling back the years of wear and tear. But, a chocolate interior? What a zesty idea... ok we'll stop taking the pith!! Pip, pip!!
Top Tip: When carrying out a wiring repair, as in the outside air temp sensor connector, its a good idea to 'stagger' the joined cables so that one joint is mayby an inch further along the cable to the other joint. Maybe not such an issue when using shrinkwrap as Ed has done, but definately a good idea if you only have insulating tape to wrap around the repair.
Wow. To think of all the times I've stripped out entire fiddly fuse boxes to run a complete fuse check. I never noticed they were open ended so as to get your probes in situ. Thanks Edd
Hi ed i had the same problem and drove me nuts. I decided to pull the switch out an it had a bad pin. I stand there and just had to laugh and got a new switch.
Great show Edd👍🏻
Great series on VWT5, there is rich community of owners here I believe, I like your fault diagnosis with little oscilloscope, keep it going, regards T5 owner
Something tells me Paul is Edd's in-house health and safety guy. Good looking out on the ABS issue Paul.
A nice tip to removal copper oxidation. Vinegar and salt! It's so simple! Thanks a lot!
Thank you Guys. Love the auto electric diagnostics from the last 2 episodes.
You forget the single seals from the two cables from the temp. Sensor , these two seals are very important .
greets from germany
Uli
Actually find it really reassuring when big Ed struggles to get to the bottom of issues like this as well. If it had just been a dodgy fuse or a broken sensor I’d have been like ‘yeah right, as if it’s ever that straight forward’
Great upload as always 👍🏻
Great job on the step by step but I would turn on the A/C and see if the belt to the compressor is turning and then check to see if the compressor is running. Good luck but I know you will fix it.
HI edd! If the compressor engages properly when you ask for AC but It doesn't work on cooling the air, try to check the dryer filter. I solved my own issue on AC changing this device that was clogged.
Fantastic vídeos! New subscriber!
Enjoying my early Friday evening viewing again!
Cracking show Edd!
One of THE most awesome shows on RUclips. Ed is as ingenious as he was on Wheeler Dealers, so glad he is back in the zone. God bless from South Africa 🙏🏿
It's truth time, I'm not really into spanners, engines etc and most of the time I haven't got a clue what you are talking about but somehow these videos are really entertaining.
tip for testing sensors and many other things the size and spacing of the pins is standardised if you go to a scrap yard and cut off a few plugs with different amounts and sizes of pins remove the shells of the plugs and put handy connectors like crocodile clips on the wires the benefits are perfect connection easy to plug in even when you can't see it and no chance of arcing out if it pop's off
Small tip on your vinegar and salt anti corrosion dip. Heat it in the microwave till hot. Works better and faster. Best to ya!
Great show once again. But at 9:32 Edd checks fuse F22 which he says is 5A, but it’s clearly a 10A fuse.
Edd and Paul are so awesome in there workshops for sure.
LOVING THE SHOW @EddChina
When joining wires I tin the ends then bend them into hooks. I hook them together and squeeze the joint with pliers then solder. It is just the method I was taught for electronics work.
The only thing I would do differently on the ac charging, would be to replace the port shader valves because that is where most ac systems leak.
I had a similar problem on a old saab of mine (2007 93).
After hours of nothing I discovered that the signal wire from the body computer to the relay had a break in it somewhere in the loom as there was no continuity.
So I ran a new wire, tucked it all away and had many cold journeys going forward 😊
Same thing in the traiblazer I bought used- bought it in November so I never thought to check the AC systerm. Also found a break in the intake temp sensor wiring in the same spot, so I was able to remove the jumper wire I had put in and patch it back up properly!
It may just be an editing thing, but I'd expect your coolant temp to be off minimum if the van had been running for a good while at around 35:51? Could the coolant temp sensor be faulty and inhibiting the AC? (I think they're usually independent but you never know). If you vac the system out again, does the signal from that pressure switch change, or could you put a new one in a similarly pressurised vessel and check the readings are roughly the same? Could you try triggering the AC compressor manually somehow to check it would function with a 'go' signal from the ECU? Similarly checking there is a signal trying to activate the compressor, relay or something. Hope you find it soon! I find most jobs even long ones are bearable if there's plenty of Tea :)
Looking forward to your next video Ed! I've got the same van with an AXD 2.5 and I'm experiencing the same issues !
Let’s hope we work it out in the end.
@@eddchina I had this issue on my 2.5 axd , there was a temp/pressure sensor mounted on the ac pipe from the compressor that was faulty and also the pins on the plug that connected to it were corroded , low down next to the oil filter that you changed .
You could do with reading the van with a better code reader really Edd. Look at the live data in the hevac module. The hi / low pressure switch I think vw call it the G63 sensor, I’ve changed a few in the past on various vw Audi group vehicles over the years, I’m pretty sure you can change the sensor without degassing the ac system.
I wonder why you haven’t checked the electronic clutch of the AC compressor. That would be my first place to look. Since even with or without gas in the system, when you call for the AC to turn on, it should connect the clutch to turn the compressor.
Normally you should even hear the compressor kick in when the AC button is pressed (audible even over the engine idle sound, quite a loud tick in some cars).
I think the compressor was new
Yes, and aren't there a relay actuating the clutch?
Hi. The vw doesn't have a magnetic clutch or relays. All will be revealed.
John Hardcastle i dont know the specifics of every car manufacturer, but I can assure you that in all cars, the AC needs some sort of clutch to disconnect the compressor when you turn the AC off. So whatever is the specific of that particular model, that would be the most logical place to start. Because no matter what car it is and wether the system has a full charge of gas or not, the moment you press the button, you can hear the load increase of the compressor and the engine revving up to keep up with the demand. But anyways... thanks John for your Input, all of us here like to learn new things and I didn’t know the vw didn’t have the traditional style clutch. I guess I’ll wait for the next episode to find out how it works.
Watching all the way from Nairobi Kenya.Good work Edd and Paul,would love see a new episode of Range Rover classic
Hi Edd,
10:36 I do not think a continuity test would work here, since you could also measure the continuity in the other half of the circuit, so the continuity of the battery. It would make more sense to measure the voltage to ground at one side of the fuse and on the other. If there is voltage on one side, but not on the other, the fuse is broken.
Greetings from Germany, Kai
There's Bus Grease Monkey, Grease Junkie, and Drain Addict. Man oh man you guys! I like the new intro way better than all that crashing and banging before.. but hey that's me.
Id look at replacing the pressure switch you looked that. Had the exact same problem as you in my Golf TDI a full AC system outside temp reader was working but the AC wouldn't blow cold. Replaced that sensor and worked right away.
good job Ed...
I would be straight at the pump. Ed says it was replaced but it might be a bad clutch. Check see if its getting power when the ac is switched on to rule out power issue. Only nightmare is that if the clutch is bad then I am not sure if there is enough room to remove the clutch with the pump in situ so all that fresh r134 is going to need to be drained again.
Well, the saga continues…
My next step would be the magnetic clutch on the compressor, although I think you said that is new.
Love your work 👍
There is no magnetic clutch.
There certainly is a magnetic clutch on VW's of this age.
Top tip: By soldering a multi wire (twin or more wires in one cable) always cut wires unevenly. In case the isolation got damaged, it will not short the wires. Basically it only can short to ground, if the insulation is damaged. 😉
i have the same issue with my van, hope you fix it and in turn i fix mine, great channel
Possibly the clutch on the compressor Edd, had it on a car not so long ago, same thing as you, everything on the vehicle reckoned it was all working, but the clutch had failed.
Top tip: if you find something that is not working that could even remotely have anything to do with the problem you are trying to solve then fix that first. Further, even if it can't possibly have anything to do with the problem at hand, fix it any first anyway. Nine times out of ten that will solve the main problem. Obviously this case here was the one out of ten. With modern control system it is very very difficult to see what is causing what when it is functioning correctly, next to impossible when something is not working as it should be.
For the vehicle pulling while braking: if it has rear drum brakes they could be out of adjustment. One rear brake applies instantly while the other is not. Under heavy braking the front calipers do almost all the braking so it will feel fine.
Just had my weekly fix from Edd and Paul. I just tried the vinegar and salt to repair my dodgy headlight connection on my MGB with top results...Cheers. Which leads me to another question, concerning the oil cooler pipes on the MGB. Why does the oil cooler pipes travel up through the radiator mount and then down to the cooler?
Because when you change the oil all the old oil doesn't really empty.
Great stuff Edd!! Look forward to the follow up. Thanks Guys.
With Peter Forrests brake issues it would be worth checking the sliders as well is one side is smoother than the other they may come on slightly earlier in light braking.
The one quick check you haven't done, and is, I would have thought, the place to start, the electro magnet on the clutch on the compressor and the power supply to it. The clutch is a simple continuity test with a test lamp and the supply would indicate a more complex issue. Disconecting the magnet lead would also highlight if the CMC recognises the magnet fault. These are one on the things that the computers and until very recently the CAN bus do not interstate and report on. One other thing is if the compressor is on a separate drive belt, is it broken.
I've instances of all of these. These days it is so easy to go racing for the reader before thinking what the system can't tell you. Some automatic gear boxes do not monitor slip in the convertor clutch. Try arguing with a Ford technician that the convertor clutch is stuffed, them saying the computer says there nothing in the report and you having to explain that it is not part of the slip codes and that you know it is the convertor clutch because it engages at 72 kph and it almost shakes the car to peaces and if you move the selector sideways with disengages the convertor clutch, it stops.
I have had gear boxes that would not engage, nothing on the reader, the cable had poped off. Also had warning light everywhere because the serpentine belt took a walk in the park because of a defective (work out) tensioner.
Occam's razor some what paraphrased try the simple (read things the computer can't see) first. It the things the 'technicans' can't find. The things that are slipping into to forgotten arts the we all used to fix mechanical things before electronics and software, look, listen, feel, smell.
(P.S. turning the R134a bottle upside down works when you can't engage the compressor. If you can, you can't do it, you have to use the bottle right way up and low side injection to. If you stick liquid into the low side, you will get liquid slugging and wreck (I want to use other 4 letter words more appropriate for the workshop environment) the compressor. Not trying to tell you how to suck egg Ed because you undoubtedly know this with your background, hence the very specific weigh of gas requirements. In the time of R12 gas (if we has the same recovery requirements then as today we could be still using it, higher specific heat, lower liquid pressures lower horsepower requirements for the same job) we would just add it until the bubbles stopped appearing in the sight glass) Go using carbon dioxide as a refrigerant gas.
P.P.S you can change the magnet in place without degassing. Fiddled with lots of sharing but saves the cost, trouble and environment.