I'm gonna copy keith fenners roller stands he sells and make a modified truing stand for cranks and wheels. This winter iam going to learn how to lace wheels up and all that jazz. Great video
Good Job, think you would benefit from a bigger brass hammer though, I have been truing cranks since the 70's and normally use a 3 to 5 lb brass hammer. The greater mass will move the webs very easy, while holding in your hand. Very good tutorial enjoyed the video.
Thanks! Thanks for the tip on the heavier hammer. I used this hammer because I seen another video where he trued the crank with a hammer at this weight. But I bet a heavier hammer will surely make it easier because I had to smack the crap out of it with this one! LoL
I rebuilt my Ktm 300 crank my self with a H F press. made a truing stand out of my engine stand. It was easier than I thought it would be. I have around 20 hrs on it now and it runs great. I used a 2lb brass hammer
Thats cool! Good job. I have not rebuilt a crank yet, only trued. But I do plan to try one here soon. I have a 2 ton press, do you think that would be good enough?
Good stuff man, sent my old crankshaft to crankworks a few weeks ago for a rebuild. I'm going to try and replicate or at least measure it the way you and 2strokestuffings did when it gets back. Great tip on positioning too! Man I need to learn to weld!!
Yes I wish I knew how to weld too. Luckily for me a good friend of mine who is retired is a great retired welder and does anything I need. Its like an art. I surely would want to check the crank when you get it back, just for peace of mind and so you know!
Thanks, A friend of mine welded that other crank. I'm not sure if he tig or mig welded it. I think he was testing to see if the heat of welding would change the true of the crank. I dont plan to weld my Yamaha's crank.
@@dc6233 True and thanks. Honestly this crank that I trued ended up measuring better than the brand new one I put in my bike from yamaha. Both measured on the same spots. Next time I wil try putting it further down on the stator side. However on the crank main gear side theres no further down I can go really.
So if a little drop throws the crank out of true. I would imagine the forces within the engine would do the same over time. Is it possible to spot-weld the pin to keep the crank true?
Hello. I have seen some shops like pro circuit put together cranks and weld them in place. I dont know much about it myself, I question how do they do it without the heat maybe taking it out of true during the weld but they do it. I have pulled cranks out of bikes and found they have been knocked off true during their lifespan in the motor however they are usually still within the allowable tolerance, just ever so slightly knocked off. Its not every crank, just a few here or there but it does happen.
Brass hammers work aswell and are a lot cheaper if your not beating the crap out of it. You should take a shot at rebuilding a shot crank rather then replacing and try trueing it. You can do cranks 125cc or smaller with your 20t press. Would be cool to see. 👍
Is the brass hammer as soft on the crank as a copper one is? I do plan to try to rebuild a 125 crank at some point. Especially because since covid often times cranks can be on back order so rebuilding cranks is sometimes the fastest option, especially with the ktms.
I’m really nervous to try this but I have no choice if I want to get my bikes running. Luckily I have a trash crank to practice on. Maybe it can even be fixed if I machine it.
Oh crap that sucks. Thats like cylinder replating, can sometimes take months. With cylinders I try to only send spares out so I can keep riding. Unless there is no spare and no available replacement then I just have to wait lol
@@UpAllNight91 what was crazy is powerseal did the cylinder beginning of January in about a week! So much for just a top end, had to rebuild everything.. Hopefully just top ends for a couple years now 🙂
@@UpAllNight91 it was $265 for the replate, but I didn't have any cracks that needed welding thankfully. I think millennium was quoting me around $300. Powerseal did great work, would definitely use them again. Whole cylinder got vapor blasted too from the look of it
Hello. Thanks. I like to install the crank bearings in the case first. And then install the crank. I freeze the bearings and heat the case some to help them slide it in. And then I freeze the crank and put a little heat on the bearings to the crank slides in the bearings easy.
@@brianquintero3028 the dial indicator and stand was bought from harborfreight.com and the truing stand I had a friend build for me. They do sell trueing stands but they are usually not check so if you can fabricate one its better. Even a quick make shift one will get it done
Will you please send it to me to put in my bike I um like hit mine with a f good size😮💨 hammer I'm a big dummy it's possible way out of wake I'm not even joking about it 😅😅
Please, get rid of that Harbor Freight digital guage, it doesn't show enough digits accurately. Just get a regular dial indicator in thousands (.001) where there's a needle you can watch when roatating the crank. And, move it out further on the taper, you'll find it's out even further out than where you are measuring it at. 2 minutes into this video you can see whay a needle is far easier to use accurately: ruclips.net/video/t4W9RXZgY1g/видео.html
Hello. Thanks for the tips. I'm sure there is always better ways to do it. I'm not looking to geek out on truing too much, I just needed it as good or better than how they come brand new out of the box in good shape. Bike has about 50 hours on it so far and is running great. I do have a older but analog dial indicator though, maybe I will try that next time. I know it gives you better resolution but as long as its falling tight towards true thats my biggest concern.
Shit Man I doubt this guy knows what he’s even talking about. The harbor freight dial will be fine. If this was an engine that cost as much as your house or was in an airplane things might be different. Thanks for the video
That’s crazy how that little drop threw it off that much. Again,thank you for sharing your knowledge brother 👍👍👍
For sure. I'm thinking it was just the perfect hit at the perfect angle on the perfect surface lol. I was surprised too
I'm gonna copy keith fenners roller stands he sells and make a modified truing stand for cranks and wheels. This winter iam going to learn how to lace wheels up and all that jazz. Great video
Nice! Yeah them are handle skills to have for sure.
Great video, I had always wondered how they true those crankshafts, thanks a lot!
Your Welcome. Since then I have trued in a few more. Its actually kinda fun lol
Good Job, think you would benefit from a bigger brass hammer though, I have been truing cranks since the 70's and normally use a 3 to 5 lb brass hammer. The greater mass will move the webs very easy, while holding in your hand. Very good tutorial enjoyed the video.
Thanks! Thanks for the tip on the heavier hammer. I used this hammer because I seen another video where he trued the crank with a hammer at this weight. But I bet a heavier hammer will surely make it easier because I had to smack the crap out of it with this one! LoL
I rebuilt my Ktm 300 crank my self with a H F press. made a truing stand out of my engine stand. It was easier than I thought it would be. I have around 20 hrs on it now and it runs great. I used a 2lb brass hammer
Thats cool! Good job. I have not rebuilt a crank yet, only trued. But I do plan to try one here soon. I have a 2 ton press, do you think that would be good enough?
Good stuff man, sent my old crankshaft to crankworks a few weeks ago for a rebuild. I'm going to try and replicate or at least measure it the way you and 2strokestuffings did when it gets back. Great tip on positioning too! Man I need to learn to weld!!
how much in total did that cost??
Yes I wish I knew how to weld too. Luckily for me a good friend of mine who is retired is a great retired welder and does anything I need. Its like an art. I surely would want to check the crank when you get it back, just for peace of mind and so you know!
@@KaiMiller can't remember exactly but w/ shipping all and all about a $100 less than a new aftermarket one, like hot rods, im using a pro x rod.
@@barkeep25 thank you man!
Yes ❤ I have also this work you can see also my work on RUclips
Great vid, did you weld that other crank? If so did you tig or mig? Are you going to weld your Yamaha crank?
Thanks, A friend of mine welded that other crank. I'm not sure if he tig or mig welded it. I think he was testing to see if the heat of welding would change the true of the crank. I dont plan to weld my Yamaha's crank.
Imajine if tou would have measured runout at the end of that shaft 😮
Exactly. It's his first, cut him some slack 🤣
@@dc6233 True and thanks. Honestly this crank that I trued ended up measuring better than the brand new one I put in my bike from yamaha. Both measured on the same spots. Next time I wil try putting it further down on the stator side. However on the crank main gear side theres no further down I can go really.
Harbor freight has the brass hammer but they are not very heavy but they work.
Thanks. Thats good info.
So if a little drop throws the crank out of true. I would imagine the forces within the engine would do the same over time. Is it possible to spot-weld the pin to keep the crank true?
Hello. I have seen some shops like pro circuit put together cranks and weld them in place. I dont know much about it myself, I question how do they do it without the heat maybe taking it out of true during the weld but they do it. I have pulled cranks out of bikes and found they have been knocked off true during their lifespan in the motor however they are usually still within the allowable tolerance, just ever so slightly knocked off. Its not every crank, just a few here or there but it does happen.
Brass hammers work aswell and are a lot cheaper if your not beating the crap out of it. You should take a shot at rebuilding a shot crank rather then replacing and try trueing it. You can do cranks 125cc or smaller with your 20t press. Would be cool to see. 👍
Is the brass hammer as soft on the crank as a copper one is? I do plan to try to rebuild a 125 crank at some point. Especially because since covid often times cranks can be on back order so rebuilding cranks is sometimes the fastest option, especially with the ktms.
I’m really nervous to try this but I have no choice if I want to get my bikes running. Luckily I have a trash crank to practice on. Maybe it can even be fixed if I machine it.
I know the feeling. It can be scary. Make sure to use the correct hammer and take your time. A junk crank to try on first is surely a good idea too.
Sent mine to crankworks a month ago. I'll probably try this next time. Gonna miss first race of the year not having it back in time oh well.
Oh crap that sucks. Thats like cylinder replating, can sometimes take months. With cylinders I try to only send spares out so I can keep riding. Unless there is no spare and no available replacement then I just have to wait lol
@@UpAllNight91 what was crazy is powerseal did the cylinder beginning of January in about a week! So much for just a top end, had to rebuild everything.. Hopefully just top ends for a couple years now 🙂
@@NotAMotoVlog yeah. A week is good. I wish they always got it done that quickly. How much did powerseal cost if u don't mind me asking
@@UpAllNight91 it was $265 for the replate, but I didn't have any cracks that needed welding thankfully. I think millennium was quoting me around $300. Powerseal did great work, would definitely use them again. Whole cylinder got vapor blasted too from the look of it
@@NotAMotoVlog nice! Ok. I have a spare 125 and 250 cylinder I plan to send out for a plating. Thanks
Great video. Just sub.
Do you install your main bearings in the case, then install the crank? Or do you put the main bearings on the crank first?
Hello. Thanks. I like to install the crank bearings in the case first. And then install the crank. I freeze the bearings and heat the case some to help them slide it in. And then I freeze the crank and put a little heat on the bearings to the crank slides in the bearings easy.
Iv seen a guy that does them smack it on a solid block of wood to align it just a little at a time
Thats crazy. I bet it works though.
Well done
Thank you Sir!
Good job chin up mano
Thank you Sir!🙂
Could you possibly use a framing square or speed square??
Yes, anything can be used as long as its held steady.
How vital would it be if the two supporting beams for the crank aren't exactly the the same height?
As long as you can get consistent measurements it should be ok.
Why do you guys hit it with hammer? How does it help to make its rotation smooth?
Hitting with the hammer is to spin one half of the crank from the other half to try to get both sides on a equal plain
Hey man if they don,t find you handsome at least they will find you handy
Hahahah! Thats the truth!
Can I pay you to rebuild my crank, I have all the new parts already I just need the work done
Hello. Sorry I don't rebuild cranks. I can true them but don't have any experience in pressing out rods and putting new ones in. Sorry
Can you send me a link for the truing tool can't seem find it
Which tool? The dial indicator, or stand, or?
Both
@@brianquintero3028 the dial indicator and stand was bought from harborfreight.com and the truing stand I had a friend build for me. They do sell trueing stands but they are usually not check so if you can fabricate one its better. Even a quick make shift one will get it done
put the indicator at the start and end of the taper, after you think it's true
You mean where the crank pin is at? To help keep track?
Will you please send it to me to put in my bike I um like hit mine with a f good size😮💨 hammer I'm a big dummy it's possible way out of wake I'm not even joking about it 😅😅
😄 I already put that crank in a friends bike. Still going strong today too!
Please, get rid of that Harbor Freight digital guage, it doesn't show enough digits accurately. Just get a regular dial indicator in thousands (.001) where there's a needle you can watch when roatating the crank. And, move it out further on the taper, you'll find it's out even further out than where you are measuring it at. 2 minutes into this video you can see whay a needle is far easier to use accurately: ruclips.net/video/t4W9RXZgY1g/видео.html
Hello. Thanks for the tips. I'm sure there is always better ways to do it. I'm not looking to geek out on truing too much, I just needed it as good or better than how they come brand new out of the box in good shape. Bike has about 50 hours on it so far and is running great. I do have a older but analog dial indicator though, maybe I will try that next time. I know it gives you better resolution but as long as its falling tight towards true thats my biggest concern.
Shit Man I doubt this guy knows what he’s even talking about. The harbor freight dial will be fine.
If this was an engine that cost as much as your house or was in an airplane things might be different. Thanks for the video