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The cams and timing on this design and the connecting rod length.......... theres 45 degrees of cam motion that opens and closes the valves or air gets sucked in and out the intake/exhaust. The lobes contact the buckets and give a 100 degrees worth of opening the valves. The connecting rod is long to clear the crank resulting in a deck height that results in too high of a compression ratio. 50:1, you run that thing on diesel with a shim under the cylinder?

@CRITESBIKER not sure what your talking about but this bike is still running good today

I test rode a 23 TE125. The FI surely seems to calm down some of the hit on them compared to previous models.

@@UpAllNight91 We have the TPS ( Two Stroke Performance ) ECU which helps the plug fouling at start up and changes the oil mixture ration , High compresion head ,Scalvini pipe with FMF silencer. I think when my son moves on to another bike I will buy it from him.

Hello. Yes OEM parts ordered from www.rockymountainatvmc.com/ in the OEM parts section. If you need help looking up the parts I have a video on how to order OEM parts that walks though this, here is a link to that vdieo... ruclips.net/video/slOfGOMQshs/видео.htmlsi=7Sd9uGb2r4Nh87hy

Thanks. Yeah the 2015 is about the same. I would be sure to check the manual for the head torque specs as I think they are slightly different between the two but others its the same design and about the same overall.

@UpAllNight91 alright 👍 i'm going to do it in a couple weeks. With te manual next to me and your video on in my garage. Thx en keep posting! Greetings from Belgium btw ✌️

@@jimmyvangucht7398 Right on! 👍

The casing is thicker at the flange on the V force. But the question is which one takes up more space or room inside the crank area and intake port? This I dont know as I havent looked into that but that would be what I would be looking at as that is what will have a direct effect on the pre-compression. I thought about setting up a mock up and seeing which one takes up more or less volume in the intake port but I just didnt get around to it lol.

Hello. I know thats what the mags have said and they call them torque spacers and all. But engine tuners have been reporting for years that increasing the pre-compression will increase bottom end power and lowering the pre-compression it will boost top end power. Removing the spacer will increase the pre-compression. Also on the YZ250 removing the spacer will put the reeds more over the boost port, blocking it off just a hair. I have gone back and forth and can say from experience, its not even a guessing game, its a night and day difference. Also its been reported by multiple builders on dynos that YZ250 looses 1HP without the spacer, every time. Derek Harris on this forum thread linked here www.vitalmx.com/forums/Moto-Related,20/YZ250-Stock-Pipe-with-PC-R304-Combo,1349626?exclusive_forum_user=false&page=0 said "My dyno consistently reports removing the spacer looses 1 hp from bottom to top on the yz. I continue to read people say otherwise - but havent seen anyone publish a test showing removed its better. Ill retest it next yz I have for dyno work and try to republish it- but just throwing it out there on my experience with it. Ive done somewhere around 3000 yz250 dyno pulls to date.... and tested just about everything you can name." Also if you go to page 2 of that forum thread about halway down the moto lab posted a dyno graph showing both with the spacer and without. Without spacer lost 1.5 HP across the board with no real gain. I believe on a 2 stroke without a tuned pipe or a very poorly tuned pipe like the 70's or very early 2 strokes things might be different. But when a very well tuned pipe (like the current 2 strokes use these days) is brought into the mix things change.

Hello. On a 250 2 stroke, yes slower guy can totally get 80 hours out of a forged piston and rings. I would not worry about changing the rings at 40 hours though. The rings need to seal on two things, the cylinder wall and the piston. Once a set of rings wear into the ring landing on the piston if the rings are going to be replace might as well replace the piston with them for best results. That being said the rings will usually out live the piston on a 2 stroke. I would just run it 80 hours if thats what you plan to do and then replace the piston and rings together.

@UpAllNight91 hey man, thanks so much for your time and advice. Your the best guy on youtube, hope your channel keeps growing

Which nut and washer?

Beavis says thanks 😆! Your welcome sir! The YZ250 is probably one of the funnest bikes to own and play with mods.

Thanks!

Thanks. I dont use oil or lube on the piston and cylinder so the rings seat quickly and does not smoke (unless its a freshly honed new cylinder, then I will use motor oil on it but wipe it off so that its only slightly oiled). Dont worry I have pulled pistons out at the end of their life on my own bikes that have had the piston installed dry like this and they come out looking great. I dont use assembly lube in the motor unless the motor is going to be set on a shelf for a long time. Mainly because if the motor is going to be started up right after the rebuild then assembly lube will only contaminate the motor oil (assembly lube is tacky and is good for sitting on the part for a long time while in storage). But if I feel I need to use any lube and the motor will be started shortly after the rebuild then I use the same motor oil we plan to use in the motor to coat the parts. If the parts inside the motor are used and broken in (parts like the cam and head) then I dont worry about any oil or lube. Its really not needed and just makes a mess. The oil pump will have oil already at them parts within a second or two and usually is almost there just while cranking it to start it. If the part like a cam or cam journal on the head is brand new and not broken in then I will use the same motor oil on the part that we plan to run in the motor. I have been doing it like this for years and on a well maintained motor I find no wear at all many hours later during the next rebuild.

@@UpAllNight91 Thank you that make's sense when you put it that way. one last question I'm at 87 ish hours do you recommend honing the cylinder? Also what is the best Piston to use? i noticed you used OEM, but is there something better? thank you again!

​@@pankajpatel6037 Hello. I dont recommend honing a used nickel plated cylinder. As long as the original honing on the cylinder is still there its good and can be run again. I have a video covering the cylinder on this link... ruclips.net/video/AoQ4_aqVjto/видео.htmlsi=rhcLwqa1ZDt4dpmY . For the YZ250f the OEM Yamaha piston is a good choice. I would only suggest going to a different brand piston on this bike if going higher compression ratio. But if keeping stock compression ratio the OEM piston is a good solid choice.

Thank you so very much!!

Ahh nice! Hope all goes well!

Hello. I don't know off hand but you can download the manual here for free library.ymcapps.net/library/om/app/index.html?baseCode=6150&langId=02 . it will have all the torque specs.

Thanks Shane! Your welcome!

Your welcome. Thanks!

Thanks for sharing, Yes the RM250's where known to be very snappy for sure. never tried a flywheel weight on the 250's. On the 125 I do like the shorties. I also tried a 50 tooth on the 125 and agree its a hair too short. 49 feels great though.

Hello. Did you split the cases or only removed the clutch cover and replace the shift mech?

Hello. In most cases the transmission gears seem to last forever. If they look and feel good they are usually good to re-use them. But I will often change out the left side counter shaft bearing thats right behind the front sprocket while in there. If any bearings is going to go bad in the transmission that is usually the one.

@UpAllNight91 awesome thanks

@@brycerobertson1112 Yes Sir!

Hello. The valve guide seals on these bikes hardly ever go bad. We are talking about valve guide seals used also in street bikes that can see 60k miles no problem. On our MX bikes 100 to 200 hours is nothing on these seals.. Exhaust valves where good, customer didn't want any unnecessary work, just needed it back up and running good again with a affordable bill. As for head cleaning. I dont recommend milling the head surface ever. It will lower the cams on the motor which will retard the cam timing.

Yes sir! Excuse my ignorance, what is PMC?

@@UpAllNight91 I've already said too much 🤫 I'll get your # from Twisted or Breeder and we can find a day to bring over my 11 yz250

😂 right on! ​@@sirnoble561

Yes, YZ125x parts could surely be a help. Ignition and such. She likes the suspension a little on the firmer side so the normal YZ125 suspension is better but the parts from the X might be a good idea. I will look around for a X CDI, that sounds like something good to test out and see.

This motor has a spring around the clevis. Is that the spring you are talking about?

Yes. I like the 125 without the flywheel weight better too. Thanks on the retro graphics 😁. Hmm. I mean you may be onto something. I been trying to get her on a 250f but she keeps pushing it off. I told her just keep your 125 and add a 250f in the garage. I do think she will learn something on the 250f and if she wanted she can take them skills back to the 125.

Yes. Just keep kicking and within about 3 to 10 kicks it should fire up if the pump and everything is in good shape.

Hello. I dont add pressure to the bladder when filling and bleeding the shock with oil because once its all done and sealed up I want the bladder to have some room to expand. The shock will naturally lose a small amount of fluid during its life in service and as the fluid volume becomes less the bladder will expand. When the bladder runs out of room to expand in the bladder body it will start to enter the cavity between the bladder body and shock body which leads to busting the shock bladder.

@@UpAllNight91 i dont understand that my english is not the best. but with your methode the bladder has not a room to expand because the case is full up with oil and with high tempretúre the shock can not compressed at full stroke ,or it explode . when i make a oil chance fill up and compressed the shaft 20 times to go out the air than i put 30 psi in it and a little oil that was too much came out of the body and now i closed the compression valve.now the bladder has room to expand when i put the fully pressure in the case.

🤣🤣🤣

Boom boom boom lol

@@Palmdalebandit_ 🤣🤣🤣

Hello. I used the bolts found on this link right here... www.partzilla.com/product/honda/95701-06110-00?titan_sku=95701-06110-00

👍

The 9 oz actually weighed a little over 10 oz.

@@derweibhai I should have weighed this one before putting it on.

🤣🤣🤣 I would totally consider lol. She owned a CRF450 some years back then she wanted a 125. Every so often she will test ride one of her friends 250f's and keeps saying the same thing, that she doesnt want the extra weight. But I think I have talked her into buying a 250F and also keeping her 125. If she would spend some time on the 250f she will get used to it

What do you mean by it doesn't merry up right?

I put a 10oz on my 08RM250 and there was a gap on one side due to the threads

Seemed to be tilted in other words

@SLAYJUCE ahh ok. Yeah this one seemed ok. That was why I started it up and checked for wobble. But I could seen that happening. If it wobbled I would surely return it

@@SLAYJUCE Ahh ok. Yeah I would return it if it bolted on uneven.

Thanks!

Thanks! For sure 125's are probably the funest of the MX bikes lol. I dont have any videos on removing the screen on the 250f but I can say if you remove the screen pay attention to the way the bike runs. You may need to add some more fuel in the tune.

Thanks!!!

You think so. I might try a flywheel weight on the YZ250 at some point. Would be nice if I can find one to just test out before I buy one.

LoL She says thanks!

Yeah I think they off a 7, 9, and 11.

Yes heavier may have been easier to feel the difference. I totally felt it but I think she was expecting more.

We have a G2 throttle on it so thats a good idea, we can just buy the throttle cam needed

@ yeah it’s a wonderful mod. I started to use them when I switched to 4 stroke for a couple seasons. Back on a 2 stroke this season and I couldn’t go without it!

@@mikeking7388 Yup. I love the G2 throttle systems. Very nice product