@bv3D I suggest rooting the printer (officially supported by creality) and separate the X and Y input shaping. To get the speed AND the better slicer, OrcaSlicer is the way to go (it has profiles for the K1 and K1 max out of the box). Thanks for all the content, have a good one.
Thanks for the video I must say I printed the 600mms model stock which was impressive than rooted and tuned input shaper and man this is a beast when tuned!
Those vertical lines are VFA that happen when you slow down the print speed. This is something that all core xy machines are susceptible to to a certain extent. Some have said that tightening the belts has helped reduce the VFA ripples.
@@BV3D Those VFAs come from the stepper resonances, and it's not exclusive to corexy, any machine with stepper motors can suffer from that issue, it's a relationship between the pulley sizes, the stepper drivers, the stepper quality and the full steps per rotation of the stepper, the only way to control it or eliminate it is to avoid the resonant region, you can print a tower with flat faces and increase the speed every few layers you will see how there's a range where the resonances are higher and you have to avoid that region with higher or lower speeds matching how close you want to get to that region, VFAs coming from belt tension are not speed dependan and they will be there at any speed
Prusa forum has long discussion about VFA and on mk4 they switched to 0.9 degree steppers to reduce (not eliminate) VFA. Based on personal "testing", there are "goldilock" speeds, where the lines are minimal. I think it's sort of inertia thing, where stepper can run smoothly at natural (?) stepping speed but will judder when being pulled faster or pushed slower than that. When running at high speed, there's not much judder, but maybe Klipper must start joining curves to longer segments to keep serial transfer within limits -> faceted lines? If core-XY is meant to be fast and has larger (more torque) steppers, VFA could be worse. Is it time to start using servo motors with smooth torque?
mine printed like trash until i updated the firmware... now it's a dream, prints everything so nice... way better than my other printers... i'd say, just as good as the x1c we have at work... i feel like it prints faster... love this machine...
As other have said. Some of it has to do with core xy and the fact you will always get some vfa's. Now rooting it and going with stock klipper will help big time with any ghosting. Creality chose to use the same values twice for imput shaping instead of using a Xand Y value. I am puzzled as to why. And as others have also said the best tightness can also affect vfa's. Strangely enough i loosened my belts a bit and saw improvements. Mine was way too tight. So i guess try both and see. And as to how to do it. You will get 2 exra screws with your printer. You need to screw them into each side of the belt tighening assembly and then you loosen the two screws pinting towards the front on each side. The more you screw the one on the side in the looser the belt will get. Once done you tighten the 2 screws and then remove the screws you had just installed. It is hard to explain but there are some videos on it
I’ve had mine for a few weeks and printed over 200 prints. I did replace the pei sheet with a different one that has a pattern on it. Never fails me and I don’t have any of the ringing you have. I guess I got a good one! And I share with no support. I emailed them about the cloud software twice with no response.
I must have this new "KFC"-1 so that my fast prints sound like chickens...🤣 Love the vids and the T-shirts are always one of my favorite parts. Keep it up and Happy Holidays!!!
Re: @11:20. You can create and save additional profiles, and save time by starting the provided ones. And I agree, the Creality Print app is a little rough around the edges.
I have Creality printers... they can be great. The problem? Is support. They tend to think that talking nice is what support is defined as and getting to the root of the problem and fixing it is purely secondary. Case in point, my 3 week old K1 died. It took me 4 weeks of going back and forth on worthless discussion with them to finally get them to acknowledge (directed by me) that the motherboard was bad. Then it took 2 more weeks for them to send a replacement. I'll not buy another Creality until then up their support.
I think their support can be hit or miss. I also think some of their support agents rely on Google Translate to communicate in English, and while that can be OK for conversational stuff, sometimes it fails when talking tech. That said, I'm sorry to hear it took a month and a half for you to get your main board replaced.
The rocket plane has a defect on it (from the STL) around the engine nacelle. The tool head will jump to the fuselage instead of rounding the corner. You can see it on your print at the 5:50 mark. I wish they had a fixed version because I have a very tall printer I have been wanting to print it out on. Maybe it's a Prusaslicer issue, I am not sure. If it happens to you on a different slicer it's something in the STL causing it. It happens to me when I try printing it, and it's super noticeable when you scale it up to 1.8mm nozzle width and 600 mm tall. EDIT: Also happens in Cura. It's an issue with the model itself.
Curious your thoughts between the K1 and the Bambu A1? I'm a complete newb and with the two being close in price, I'm trying to decide between the two.
Also total noob here but from my research, the biggest difference in comparing the two is one is enclosed and one is open the enclosed means you have more filament options. The bambu has larger build capacity, and better customer support, it also has the ams lite that supports multi color printing. I'm also told that you really need to root the k1, so it is running the full versions of the software so that you can really tune things.... that is the biggest thing I've found the bambu machines just work, there is no tinkering or tweaking they just print but the creality while requiring a little more work to get running, give you the freedom to customize and tweak... sorry I'm not more helpful, currently pulling my hair out trying to decide, and just found a third one that might give them both a run for their money.
I bought a k1 and the a1 came out during my return window. Got the A1 combo now. K1 is a good machine. Ultimately I returned it because for a little more money I was able to get the ams lite and a bit more build volume with a very small sacrifice to speed. Only gripes I had with the K1 was when changing filament it liked to break a little booger of filament off in the head and I would have to take off the extruder to fish it out. And I would need to root it for proper input shaping (vertical walls weren’t as smooth as they could’ve been), not a big deal. But again, a little more money got me the AMS lite and a bit more build volume. Now, with all that said, microcenter currently has the K1 for $400, I paid $430, so it’s a very good deal. Oh, the A1 is also considerably quieter than the K1, I could hear the K1 running in the garage (on the other side through an insulated wall), I can barely hear the A1 in the next room next to uninsulated wall.
@BV3D While the K1 is capable of using a AI LiDAR it doesn't ship with it, it was meant to be an addon but from what I hear from Bambu and K1 Max users the AI LiDAR is useless. Only the K1 Max has AI LiDAR. Only 2 upgrades I'd recommend is the Micro Swiss hotend and the AI Camera.
I’ve printed the pre-sliced items that came with the thumb drive. These turned out OK. However, I went to the Creality website and downloaded the “Creality Print Slicer” and when I installed it on my Mac Mini the program was in CHINESE. I saw no option to choose a language so I went online and did a chat with Creality. They were not able to help and told I’d need to translate it!!! Any thoughts? Did i just download the wrong item? Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. Thanks
I downloaded Creality Print for macOS from Creality Cloud, it was version 4.3.7.6625. From www.crealitycloud.com/software-firmware/software/creality-print you should be able to scroll down to the Mac section of the page to get version 4.3.7.6625. That's the version I was using on my Mac, and it was in English.
I think Creality in a way dropped the ball a bit here? Great printer as many say, But I say drooped the ball because who would go to the trouble to design a enclosed core x y printer that has a cut out on the bottom right of the glass door so the control touch screen is missed so the door can open or close. Daft design from a big long time 3D printer company. Better to have the touch screen up on the right side of the front frame above the glass door open area so the door does it's thing and keeps the inside draught free because the door be, Well a full door not a door with a missing section at the bottom! Having the screen up on the top right frame with say the Creality Name up alongside it would still be good looking and the door would be a full non-air let though the gap at the bottom right corner one. Also I agree the spool holder should be at the right side or left side for ease of access! So Creality made a great fast klipper core x y printer but somehow thought that having a gap around the place were they decided to place the touch screen was fine to have letting in breezes and making the whole sealed away from the air you don't wish going into the printing area was okay to do when they could have done what most 3D printer home builders would have done and say have a full sealed door to stop that? Qidi Tech got the memo and designed their X-Plus-3 & X-Max-3 with a full encloser with full door sealing up away from the not needed breezes so the ABS type prints are not ruined by those blowing in. Creality really needs to re-think the design and placement of the next series of core x y control touch screens next time so the printer door is full not has a cut out.
Apologies, I didn't know that was something you wanted to see. My B-roll camera is my phone, and there are times that I'll start a print and then need to be elsewhere, so I can't set up the phone on a tripod and leave it rolling while I go do whatever else I needed to do. Do you want to see a time lapse of it, or do you want like a whole 90 minutes of vase-mode printing?
I noticed that like many Creality machines this draws a line of filament from the bottom left to the centre before printing, I got this on my Ender 5 Plus machines before I got rid of the Creality FW, I would have thought by now they would have fixed this and especially on their flagship models, So, Creality are still lazy! One of the great features that I love on my newly acquired X1C and AMS is the nozzle cleaning, no more blobs on my first layers! My 20 year old server cabinet that I have my Ender 3 machines enclosed in has a glass door that is totally tight with no gaps whatsoever, why cant the printer manufacturers get this right, hell, Even a piano hinge would solve this issue. In my YT feed I see loads of new videos on fixing issues with the K1 and K1 max and this is partly why I did not even consider a Creality printer when deciding to spend a fortune on a new printer and I would have once described myself as a Creality fan!
As long as your infill is dense enough, it probably won’t matter but I’m not an expert. I would worry about layer height affecting strength before speed
Not sure if someone else mentioned this (as I did not read through the comments), but that table the printer was on was moving a lot. Wouldn't this cause some of the issues you had at the higher speeds?
This actually doesn't have much of an effect, if at all. There are several videos available where comparisons are made between prints performed on a wobbly table, solid concrete floor, or even hanging from a bungee cord swinging in mid air. There was no visible difference.
Nice unbiased show. I would buy that no problem ! This speed speed speed thing is getting over board ! it defies mechanical physics . I guess I would build a turn table to mount printer on to access the spool .
I have a printer with the spool on the back. It's really cumbersome and you can't put the printer on a shelf with other printers because you need access to the back
Don't buy one. Mine is so inaccurate that parts don't fit together. The machine is off my 3mm over the 300mm print bed. Contacted Creality, and they will not replace it even though I have had this machine less than 30 days. Creality acts like they know nothing about this machine. Beware of these people who get free machines and do nothing but praise it and never tell you about the real problems.
I've seen so many videos now though of people who bought their own. I think you mustve gotten unlucky with a bad one. Sucks they dont have good support.
And the BL X1 is a direct copy of voron printers. They even use voron designs in their patent paperwork. Ironic using open source designs for your proprietary printer. CCP gonna CCP.
Hello Super Awesome People! Enjoy the video a bit early. I'm not sure if this video will be released on Dec 11 or Dec 18, but here you go!
Howdy. Print those prints on Bambu X1-C and the prints will be a lot better than what you showed in your video.
In case you didn't know, today is Dec 11 and I watched the video today.
@@lucase764 Thanks! 😊
@bv3D I suggest rooting the printer (officially supported by creality) and separate the X and Y input shaping. To get the speed AND the better slicer, OrcaSlicer is the way to go (it has profiles for the K1 and K1 max out of the box). Thanks for all the content, have a good one.
SO GLAD YOU REVIEWED THIS PRINTER 👍
Thanks for the video I must say I printed the 600mms model stock which was impressive than rooted and tuned input shaper and man this is a beast when tuned!
How did you go about tuning input shaper?
Thank you for the review.
I was looking at the New Year's discounts and wondered if the speed compromises quality.
Thank you for the review.
Those vertical lines are VFA that happen when you slow down the print speed. This is something that all core xy machines are susceptible to to a certain extent. Some have said that tightening the belts has helped reduce the VFA ripples.
OK, cool, thanks. That gives me a starting point to work from. Appreciate it!
@@BV3D If you do figure it out could you do a video on the fix? I have noticed the vertical lines in some of my prints as well.
@@BV3D Those VFAs come from the stepper resonances, and it's not exclusive to corexy, any machine with stepper motors can suffer from that issue, it's a relationship between the pulley sizes, the stepper drivers, the stepper quality and the full steps per rotation of the stepper, the only way to control it or eliminate it is to avoid the resonant region, you can print a tower with flat faces and increase the speed every few layers you will see how there's a range where the resonances are higher and you have to avoid that region with higher or lower speeds matching how close you want to get to that region, VFAs coming from belt tension are not speed dependan and they will be there at any speed
I find the belts being too tight can cause the vertical VFA's also. Along with the other recommendations posted here.
Prusa forum has long discussion about VFA and on mk4 they switched to 0.9 degree steppers to reduce (not eliminate) VFA.
Based on personal "testing", there are "goldilock" speeds, where the lines are minimal. I think it's sort of inertia thing, where stepper can run smoothly at natural (?) stepping speed but will judder when being pulled faster or pushed slower than that. When running at high speed, there's not much judder, but maybe Klipper must start joining curves to longer segments to keep serial transfer within limits -> faceted lines?
If core-XY is meant to be fast and has larger (more torque) steppers, VFA could be worse. Is it time to start using servo motors with smooth torque?
mine printed like trash until i updated the firmware... now it's a dream, prints everything so nice... way better than my other printers... i'd say, just as good as the x1c we have at work... i feel like it prints faster... love this machine...
As other have said. Some of it has to do with core xy and the fact you will always get some vfa's. Now rooting it and going with stock klipper will help big time with any ghosting. Creality chose to use the same values twice for imput shaping instead of using a Xand Y value. I am puzzled as to why. And as others have also said the best tightness can also affect vfa's. Strangely enough i loosened my belts a bit and saw improvements. Mine was way too tight. So i guess try both and see. And as to how to do it. You will get 2 exra screws with your printer. You need to screw them into each side of the belt tighening assembly and then you loosen the two screws pinting towards the front on each side. The more you screw the one on the side in the looser the belt will get. Once done you tighten the 2 screws and then remove the screws you had just installed. It is hard to explain but there are some videos on it
First we had 3d printers in bags, then mostly assembled, then down to bottom dollar, next adding some features back and now the need for speed.
As one need is satisfied, a new one appears to take its place. I wonder what the next must-have feature is going to be?
I’ve had mine for a few weeks and printed over 200 prints. I did replace the pei sheet with a different one that has a pattern on it. Never fails me and I don’t have any of the ringing you have. I guess I got a good one! And I share with no support. I emailed them about the cloud software twice with no response.
Thanks for the review!
I must have this new "KFC"-1 so that my fast prints sound like chickens...🤣
Love the vids and the T-shirts are always one of my favorite parts. Keep it up and Happy Holidays!!!
Haha - Thanks! And Happy Holidays to you as well!
My K1 Max came in a cardboard box but with a metal structure protector
Interesting. Thanks!
Re: @11:20. You can create and save additional profiles, and save time by starting the provided ones. And I agree, the Creality Print app is a little rough around the edges.
I think it is resonance from the belt put a piece of belt up to the print and it looks like they line up.
I checked early on, but the vertical lines on the print didn't mesh 1:1 with the belt teeth.
This video is fantastic, I appreciate your reviews and have a very merry Christmas.
Thanks, and thanks! Merry Christmas to you, too!
I have Creality printers... they can be great. The problem? Is support. They tend to think that talking nice is what support is defined as and getting to the root of the problem and fixing it is purely secondary.
Case in point, my 3 week old K1 died. It took me 4 weeks of going back and forth on worthless discussion with them to finally get them to acknowledge (directed by me) that the motherboard was bad. Then it took 2 more weeks for them to send a replacement.
I'll not buy another Creality until then up their support.
I think their support can be hit or miss. I also think some of their support agents rely on Google Translate to communicate in English, and while that can be OK for conversational stuff, sometimes it fails when talking tech. That said, I'm sorry to hear it took a month and a half for you to get your main board replaced.
The rocket plane has a defect on it (from the STL) around the engine nacelle. The tool head will jump to the fuselage instead of rounding the corner. You can see it on your print at the 5:50 mark. I wish they had a fixed version because I have a very tall printer I have been wanting to print it out on. Maybe it's a Prusaslicer issue, I am not sure. If it happens to you on a different slicer it's something in the STL causing it. It happens to me when I try printing it, and it's super noticeable when you scale it up to 1.8mm nozzle width and 600 mm tall. EDIT: Also happens in Cura. It's an issue with the model itself.
vertical lines may be because your belts are a fraction too tight
Curious your thoughts between the K1 and the Bambu A1?
I'm a complete newb and with the two being close in price, I'm trying to decide between the two.
Also total noob here but from my research, the biggest difference in comparing the two is one is enclosed and one is open the enclosed means you have more filament options. The bambu has larger build capacity, and better customer support, it also has the ams lite that supports multi color printing. I'm also told that you really need to root the k1, so it is running the full versions of the software so that you can really tune things.... that is the biggest thing I've found the bambu machines just work, there is no tinkering or tweaking they just print but the creality while requiring a little more work to get running, give you the freedom to customize and tweak... sorry I'm not more helpful, currently pulling my hair out trying to decide, and just found a third one that might give them both a run for their money.
I bought a k1 and the a1 came out during my return window. Got the A1 combo now.
K1 is a good machine. Ultimately I returned it because for a little more money I was able to get the ams lite and a bit more build volume with a very small sacrifice to speed. Only gripes I had with the K1 was when changing filament it liked to break a little booger of filament off in the head and I would have to take off the extruder to fish it out. And I would need to root it for proper input shaping (vertical walls weren’t as smooth as they could’ve been), not a big deal. But again, a little more money got me the AMS lite and a bit more build volume.
Now, with all that said, microcenter currently has the K1 for $400, I paid $430, so it’s a very good deal. Oh, the A1 is also considerably quieter than the K1, I could hear the K1 running in the garage (on the other side through an insulated wall), I can barely hear the A1 in the next room next to uninsulated wall.
I haven't used glue and have had no problems. I love mine.
Is the extrusion issues from using non-high speed PLA at high speeds?
@BV3D While the K1 is capable of using a AI LiDAR it doesn't ship with it, it was meant to be an addon but from what I hear from Bambu and K1 Max users the AI LiDAR is useless. Only the K1 Max has AI LiDAR. Only 2 upgrades I'd recommend is the Micro Swiss hotend and the AI Camera.
Thanks Bryan.
I want the k1 max for bigger projects. Waiting on deals, till i get it.
They released the klipper firmware stopping the artifacts 👍
I’ve printed the pre-sliced items that came with the thumb drive. These turned out OK. However, I went to the Creality website and downloaded the “Creality Print Slicer” and when I installed it on my Mac Mini the program was in CHINESE. I saw no option to choose a language so I went online and did a chat with Creality. They were not able to help and told I’d need to translate it!!! Any thoughts? Did i just download the wrong item? Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. Thanks
I downloaded Creality Print for macOS from Creality Cloud, it was version 4.3.7.6625. From www.crealitycloud.com/software-firmware/software/creality-print you should be able to scroll down to the Mac section of the page to get version 4.3.7.6625. That's the version I was using on my Mac, and it was in English.
Telling customers to translate chinese instead of telling them about the correct version to download is top notch customer support.
Thank, I’ll give that a try.
@@markmiles7485 Please let me know how it goes.
Hi. Have you tried the K1 with orcaslicer?
I think Creality in a way dropped the ball a bit here? Great printer as many say, But I say drooped the ball because who would go to the trouble to design a enclosed core x y printer that has a cut out on the bottom right of the glass door so the control touch screen is missed so the door can open or close.
Daft design from a big long time 3D printer company. Better to have the touch screen up on the right side of the front frame above the glass door open area so the door does it's thing and keeps the inside draught free because the door be, Well a full door not a door with a missing section at the bottom!
Having the screen up on the top right frame with say the Creality Name up alongside it would still be good looking and the door would be a full non-air let though the gap at the bottom right corner one. Also I agree the spool holder should be at the right side or left side for ease of access!
So Creality made a great fast klipper core x y printer but somehow thought that having a gap around the place were they decided to place the touch screen was fine to have letting in breezes and making the whole sealed away from the air you don't wish going into the printing area was okay to do when they could have done what most 3D printer home builders would have done and say have a full sealed door to stop that?
Qidi Tech got the memo and designed their X-Plus-3 & X-Max-3 with a full encloser with full door sealing up away from the not needed breezes so the ABS type prints are not ruined by those blowing in. Creality really needs to re-think the design and placement of the next series of core x y control touch screens next time so the printer door is full not has a cut out.
These improvements will be in the K12 version. Just wait for 6years.
Too bad you didn't see fit to show us the printer printing the vase mode rocket.
Apologies, I didn't know that was something you wanted to see. My B-roll camera is my phone, and there are times that I'll start a print and then need to be elsewhere, so I can't set up the phone on a tripod and leave it rolling while I go do whatever else I needed to do. Do you want to see a time lapse of it, or do you want like a whole 90 minutes of vase-mode printing?
cool printer
Did you test ABS?
like to wish you and your family a merry christmas happy new year
Thank you, Paul! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you, too!
I noticed that like many Creality machines this draws a line of filament from the bottom left to the centre before printing, I got this on my Ender 5 Plus machines before I got rid of the Creality FW, I would have thought by now they would have fixed this and especially on their flagship models, So, Creality are still lazy!
One of the great features that I love on my newly acquired X1C and AMS is the nozzle cleaning, no more blobs on my first layers!
My 20 year old server cabinet that I have my Ender 3 machines enclosed in has a glass door that is totally tight with no gaps whatsoever, why cant the printer manufacturers get this right, hell, Even a piano hinge would solve this issue.
In my YT feed I see loads of new videos on fixing issues with the K1 and K1 max and this is partly why I did not even consider a Creality printer when deciding to spend a fortune on a new printer and I would have once described myself as a Creality fan!
I wonder what all that speed does for strength on the parts.
As long as your infill is dense enough, it probably won’t matter but I’m not an expert. I would worry about layer height affecting strength before speed
Not sure if someone else mentioned this (as I did not read through the comments), but that table the printer was on was moving a lot. Wouldn't this cause some of the issues you had at the higher speeds?
This actually doesn't have much of an effect, if at all. There are several videos available where comparisons are made between prints performed on a wobbly table, solid concrete floor, or even hanging from a bungee cord swinging in mid air. There was no visible difference.
Is that how quiet it is????
Nice unbiased show. I would buy that no problem ! This speed speed speed thing is getting over board ! it defies mechanical physics . I guess I would build a turn table to mount printer on to access the spool .
All creality printers print PLA good, other filaments nothing but pain, in any case get ender v3 600 the same darn thing without enclosure.
I have a printer with the spool on the back. It's really cumbersome and you can't put the printer on a shelf with other printers because you need access to the back
damn your hair looks good
and it lasts only a few months : **(
As a klipper machine it should be open source ....but it aint
Creality’s newest firmware opens it up to full Klipper. It is now fully Open Source
Don't buy one. Mine is so inaccurate that parts don't fit together. The machine is off my 3mm over the 300mm print bed. Contacted Creality, and they will not replace it even though I have had this machine less than 30 days. Creality acts like they know nothing about this machine. Beware of these people who get free machines and do nothing but praise it and never tell you about the real problems.
I've seen so many videos now though of people who bought their own. I think you mustve gotten unlucky with a bad one. Sucks they dont have good support.
It's a direct copy of a bambu lab x1
you dont know much about 3dprinters, do you ?😆
And the BL X1 is a direct copy of voron printers. They even use voron designs in their patent paperwork. Ironic using open source designs for your proprietary printer. CCP gonna CCP.