One thing about wings, there's plenty of things to unbolt before you get to the bits you need to work on. Adding lots of chrome trim, bars etc adds to the spanner twirling.
For sure. If you have completed the maintenance/repairs I have, I got to say you get pretty quick at removing the usual suspects. I also have the advantage of not caring too much about my cosmetics and just go at it.
7.1.24. ⚠️Just a heads up if you don’t know already… The four-cylinder Goldwing’s have issues with their stators burning up, and that entails actually pulling the engine to pull the rear cover off.☝🏼
I am aware, mine has the "fix" completed ( elimination of the clip and the three wires soldered together) on it and I haven't had any problems yet. Im aware of the po-boy alternator, but I ran across a photo of someone who mounted the alternator directly to the cam shaft with it mounted to the front of the valve cover, no pully needed. it looked pretty cool and I would need to do some more research but I think I would go that route if the stator goes out.
Consider re torquing the head after a heat cycle, the aftermarket and current honda gaskets seem very compressible ( compared to the original asbestos honda ones).
That’s a good point flash. I’ll probably do this as part of my update on how the repair is holding up. With the torque wrench I have I should be able to see if they start turning before the 40lbs I set them to.
A few reasons. First there was nothing wrong with them. Second, the cams looked intimidating. In my quick search I didn’t find anyone else who had done a 1200. Plenty of 1100s but the 1200 has hydrolic tappits. Which are discribed as “virtually maintenance free” and third is that I didn’t know the quality of the seals I had gotten in the kit. I would hate to have replaced perfectly fine gaskets with ones of inferior quality. If something does go wrong with the existing valves I’ll be sure to do some additional research and make a video about it.
I feel like it could be a pattern. Probably a warmer spot in the head with less coolant flow. I had had mine sit without coolant for a bit as I was doing the timing belts and wonder if there is any merit to the gasket drying out. I think that’s a stretch but it did cross my mind.
Thanks to you I was able to put my rear wheel on my bike. Hopefully I don’t have to do this job but if I have to, I know you’re a great resource.
Thanks Curtis. I appreciate it. Keep winging bratha.
I have to do the same project on my 87 GL1200 appreciate the efforts for making the video.
You got it, good luck with your project! Hope some of the info comes in handy.
the little fella is watching intently ❤
Great video dude!
Thanks dale. Appreciate it.
Your got a good boy there so lovely .❤
He’s a great helper. . . Sometimes. lol.
One thing about wings, there's plenty of things to unbolt before you get to the bits you need to work on. Adding lots of chrome trim, bars etc adds to the spanner twirling.
For sure. If you have completed the maintenance/repairs I have, I got to say you get pretty quick at removing the usual suspects. I also have the advantage of not caring too much about my cosmetics and just go at it.
7.1.24. ⚠️Just a heads up if you don’t know already… The four-cylinder Goldwing’s have issues with their stators burning up, and that entails actually pulling the engine to pull the rear cover off.☝🏼
I am aware, mine has the "fix" completed ( elimination of the clip and the three wires soldered together) on it and I haven't had any problems yet. Im aware of the po-boy alternator, but I ran across a photo of someone who mounted the alternator directly to the cam shaft with it mounted to the front of the valve cover, no pully needed. it looked pretty cool and I would need to do some more research but I think I would go that route if the stator goes out.
Nice work...thanks
Thanks for the comment Joseph.
Consider re torquing the head after a heat cycle, the aftermarket and current honda gaskets seem very compressible ( compared to the original asbestos honda ones).
That’s a good point flash. I’ll probably do this as part of my update on how the repair is holding up. With the torque wrench I have I should be able to see if they start turning before the 40lbs I set them to.
Why didn't you replace the valve oil seals when you had the heads off
A few reasons. First there was nothing wrong with them. Second, the cams looked intimidating. In my quick search I didn’t find anyone else who had done a 1200. Plenty of 1100s but the 1200 has hydrolic tappits. Which are discribed as “virtually maintenance free” and third is that I didn’t know the quality of the seals I had gotten in the kit. I would hate to have replaced perfectly fine gaskets with ones of inferior quality. If something does go wrong with the existing valves I’ll be sure to do some additional research and make a video about it.
Better keep an eye on the rubber bands too .
No 3 was where my head gasket went, coincidence or a pattern?
I feel like it could be a pattern. Probably a warmer spot in the head with less coolant flow. I had had mine sit without coolant for a bit as I was doing the timing belts and wonder if there is any merit to the gasket drying out. I think that’s a stretch but it did cross my mind.