How to Fix a Scratch and Paint with Base / Clear
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- For More Information, Visit www.refinishnet... and Explore a World of Auto Body Repair Resources.
Enhance your knowledge and skills in auto body repair by visiting www.refinishnet.... Our platform offers a vast array of resources, including videos, repair articles, auto body repair courses, and valuable information to help you excel in your craft. Join a thriving community of auto body technicians, professionals, and enthusiasts to engage in discussions on car painting techniques and exchange insights.
In this specific video, we address a minor scrape on a Mazda Miata. The scratch is meticulously handled, starting with feathering it out using 280 grit paper until each color is separated by approximately 1/2 inch. Backsanding follows to provide a suitable surface for primer adhesion.
Next, we apply two coats of Glasurit 285-10/20 direct-to-metal urethane primer, allowing sufficient drying time. The priming process employs a devilbiss finishline HVLP gun equipped with a 1.6 tip. To achieve a smooth finish, the surface is blocksanded with 320 paper and final sanded with 400-500 grit paper. While using a block is optional, it is recommended for optimal results.
After carefully taping up the area, we move on to the painting stage. Three coats of RM Diamont basecoat are applied, with each coat allowed to flash for approximately 5 minutes before applying the next. A reliable Iwata LPH400 spray gun, operating at around 20 psi, is used for the basecoat application.
To provide a glossy and protective finish, we utilize BASF DC5335 Glamour clear coat. Two coats are applied, with a 10-minute interval between each coat. The clear coat is expertly sprayed using an Iwata W400 spray gun at around 26 psi.
To ensure a flawless outcome, any dirt nibs that may have appeared are carefully color-sanded and polished afterwards, leaving the surface smooth and polished.
Discover additional insights and techniques as you delve deeper into the world of auto body repair. Explore our extensive resources and benefit from the collective wisdom of professionals in the field. Your journey towards achieving outstanding results in auto body repair starts here.
Great job.I like to use an adhesion promoter in between primer and basecoat,espceially on light metallic,but really good work.and dont listen to those guys saying to use 800 for the basecoat.600 is pushing it,the basecoat needs something to bite into.Use 800 and it'll let go over time.
But,one thing I'd like to add,if you don't mind and this is coming from painting cars for 42 years.Cover yourself when youre spraying that clear,buddy.Head to toe,pal,especially your eyes.and if youre spraying that much clear at a time a couple of times a day,invest in a positive air system.There are some really nice small systems out there.I bought a Survivair for about 400 bucks,that particulate repsirator isn't going to protect you well enough long term.They get loaded up in no time.I've known a few guys that it caught up with. and it doesnt end well. Excellent work though,dont listen to the haters
Sorry for the late reply,three of them are dead. But that was over time,cancer and emphysema. However,one painter died years ago,in a booth finishing up something he thought could get done with out protection with the activated clear. Isocyanates are a serious product,some worse than others IMO. I think the faster the dry time the harsher the iso's are. JMO and personal experience. The guy in the booth,they found him in the morning with the gun in his hand. Another very close friend was finishing up a car and didn't use protection. Felt like he had the flu,then he couldn't breathe..
ER,doc told him the stuff gets into your lungs and dries,coating them and you suffocate. The activated clears can dry in a vacuum,they love water ano they WILL hurt you. Long term exposure is bad,you can develop allergic reactions to it and you can also develop asthma,which you already have. I'd REALLY protect myself if my lungs were compromised. I'm serious, there are other stories of guys getting sick or worse from using solvent based spray dye,glues and silicone based waxes and armor all sprays. Like I said I've been painting for 42 years and I've always respected all volatile organic compounds,ESPECIALLY isocyanates. If I spray a gaslid,I'm gloved up,masked up,eye protection and full suit. Each and every time
Sometimes I cant fathom having started in 1972;I've owned my own business since 74.One thing,my friend,is never lose the absolute respect for all of your tools and each and every product you use,including yourself.You do great work you'll go far
lol, I've had much worse no worry's. This was meant to illustrate the textbook way of refinishing a scratch, I have mentioned some cheaper alternative in other video's such as using aerosols, blending clear or touching it up with a singlestage and polishing. It is alot of work to do it this way but it's the recommended procedure to return it comparable to factory.
you sir have a good taste in music with that luke bryan in the background
Very useful. Thanks.
Holy shit for the first time on RUclips a proper repair, Jesus it's only been 9 years
Well done boys
How do you prevent shadows cast by the new basecoat layer color when it's sprayed on top of the clear at the edges of the repair area? hard to explain but I tried a spot repair with the same technique and found that anywhere the clearcoat wasn't cut all the way down to the basecoat (area surrounding the repair) the basecoat would leave atomized flexs that cast a shadow to the color underneath the clear under intense light, gives it a discolored and hazing edge to the repair area instead of a solid color. Ended up having to strip the entire panel down to the primer to get the solid color back. You ever run into this?
doesnt powder guide coat just wash off when you wet sand it ?
How can that powder guidecoat work if you are washing it away with water? I could see that working with a painted on guide coat, but it seems to me that the powder guide coat is more prone to be washed out of the low spots than if you were just dry sanding.
The black power was Guide coat , some people use black paint, he put it on the damaged area to check for low spots..he resprayed the entire door the cleared it..
Hi Jimmo
I'm looking at buying my first gravity feed gun and was wondering what you would recommend? I want to stay on the sort of cheap side and maybe buy 2 guns...one for primer and one for base/clear.
I know guns don't make a good paint job and it's all about prep. I have experience painting and just wondering which ones you would recommend on the cheaper side?
Thanks,
Elliott
****(((( YO. Thanks for the flick. Dat was dope. ))))****
....was that the LV 1.6 silver cap set? or 1.4
Just bought the LVX (orange) and need one for clear. thanks
Awsome job!
what takes more paint out of your car? lower grit like 100 or 1200?
What was the foamy stuff? Just soap?
a lot of work for such e small scratch!
Thank God he didn't show the scratches before video
How do you know if the new orange paint isn't going to react with the old orange paint and forms bubble?
Very good😉
Service1956 just goes to show how modern paints have changed to 1980
Lesson learned: scratches aren't cheap.
so much work..i only want to fix a damn small 4 inch scrape...not paint the entire panel.
Too bad! For a small spot, you paint the whole door? If you had used two guns, you could just paint the spot, without having to see the difference.
I though he was giving himself blending room until he scratched all the clear coat... Probably easier cuz blender looks like it sucks
this is german quality :)
nah i have been painting for years...its actually between 800-1000 the training courses i went to recomend that you use a wet bed to hide minor scrathes.
@HandsofGold92
I've never tried, they'd make a poor sandpaper I'd imagine..........haha... i know, bad joke.. Yes I still have to wet sand and polish whenever I get dirt or the odd run in the clear. The finish is comparable to a factory texture.
for a conventional spray gun its about 45 to 55 psi I dont know for HVLP
I'm not sure I understand, are you blending the color within the panel or coloring the entire panel. Where does it look dark?
There are many sanding pastes from several suppliers, you should be able to find something on google.
Ya I know buddy, I gotta get my act together with protection. and Thanks!
I agree with Joe Blow. You need to take care of your skin and other body parts. When I was in the shop we would plunge our hands and arms up to the elbow in solvents to wash up. Now 30 years later I have major skin problems. Not to mention back in the day automotive paint contained lead. Yea, late 70's and 80's. So keep covered, and don't believe something is safe because everyone believes it is safe. Asbestos was amazing stuff used it in welding to keep panels cool while welding. Again, thanks for your great video.
why ya gotta be like that when I'm like this?
The door seems to be a bit brighter..
Nice job but I wouldn't call this a scratch repair. This was a panel refinish. Scratch repair would to do as you did with the primer and block sanding but only blow in a little color and clear a slightly larger area with the clear. Then color sand and buff to blend in the repair. I'm not throwing stones, but people new to painting might nor realize you can do a smaller repair to fix the problem such as a stone chip on a hood.
2. Next it was backsanded to allow space for the primer to adhere ?? sorry don't understand that bit...
I dont recall the grit I used, depends on my mood lol. For backsanding 320, blocking 320 and finishing 500-600. The black powder is called a "graphite powder", 3M makes that one. Its really good, anytime you upgrit its great to help you verify you've removed the coarser scratch.
It's really not much of a money maker either way but its the procedure required to restore a factory finish, have to paint the entire door. A red primer filler wouldn't have made an impact on the coverage but a lighter value would probably have been a better choice.
no, color sanding happens after clear...it's not really color sanding with base/clear , Kinda older terminology.
I'd probably go with the RP if I could do it all again. The W400 is a nice gun for clear too, the LPH is more designed as a hybrid for base/clear, if it's only clear I would choose the W over the LPH anyday. I've only demoed the RP for a few weeks and I really liked it, plan to pick one up eventually.
I don't understand what your asking, send me a more descriptive PM if you like. The paint shouldn't bubble in any event here.
i don't have enough experience with the RP to say for sure, I liked it for clear better...ask me again in a few months, I have one comming next week.
This guy is an artist. Love the video because there was no endless chatter; just straight forward visual instruction step by step, Purely professional in every way. WELL DONE!
If I can recall my training a few years ago using it dry was between a 600-800 scratch and wet was around 1000-1200, the gold pads are closer to a 1500, The nylon pads dont give as consistant of a scratch as sandpaper.
what was the point in the video if you don't explain your processes and what you're using
i been refinishing for quite a few years. my chevy trax got some aholes shopping cart scratch and run at lowes. so i contacted state farm. went over to a body shop. the scratch was approx 3.5 inch. it did have a slight depression along the scratch. the new and improved tin foil paper metal! just look at it and it dents. they wrote an estimate for 614.00. told me they had to remove the headlight assy, inner fender well, pass side mirror, door handle and blend it into the front fender. i said look just skip the bs and fix the damn scratch, sand the area around it, prime it with high build, just do as you did in your video, block it out. not sure about the scrubbing n foam part. scuffing the clear? base coat the repair area and clear the damn door. done deal. that dumb btch told me it was shop policy to basically rape the passenger side. i called the ins adj. he said that's the norm and the reason for high rates. he agreed with my simple fix then said nothing can be done. all the shops are raping ins co,s and passing it on to us. for a $50 deductible comprehensive . and the reason for sky high rates. she said oh its blue metallic. i said who gives a rats ass. i bought a silver metallic pre painted caliber fender online for 125.00. put it on and it matched to my satisfaction. not enough to make a difference. i even told them that. still. can't do it. shops policy. i told them all to shove it. and I'll fix the damn car then take it there and rub it up their a$$ez. its right above the 8 inch plastic so called frickin door protector plastic fake crap. now i know why i still paint. painted all my road king tins last summer. lvlp, dewalt 60 gal comp. dessicant filter, air filter. came out better than new. even used single stage on another job. i don't see what all the stink about single stage. neither do any of my associate painters. now they use home depot exterior water base automotive paint. only water im dealing with is drinking. im not spraying water based crap that sits in the rain all year on no damn car. its either urethane or take the train.
When you prime over the feathering you always have to bring your primer a bit beyond that. Backsanding ensures your primer lands on a sanded surface.
in the thumbnail it looks like the Iwata W400, probably used the Iwata LPH400 for basecoat back then,
How to fix a scratch? Paint the entire door, but still good work though.
Hey thanks, I'll try to pay more attention to that in future videos.
A few Qs for you if you get time, thanks.
sorry next time ill just touch it up friend!
i totally disagree with using the grey scotch pad and scuff paste because you are not knocking down any of the previous finishes orange peel of therefore double the orange peel once you recoat i prefer using 1000 grit with foam backing to knock off all the previous texture
Question 1: If we need to paint a surface which is bare metal and is super smooth, now after applying primer the surface remains super smooth...Do we still need to wet sand or can simply apply paint over primer?
Question 2: In above case if some portion putty is applied , will the same primer work for both metal area and filling area or we need to use different primers for metal and filling?
Beautiful paint job.I just painted a vintage car first paint job on a car, I painted it with Acrylic it come up Beautiful but a lot of preparation went in to it.is 2 pack harder to spray than Acrylic also is a gravity feed spray gun better than a suction feed would a gravity feed give a better result and shine also do you mix your clear with the last two coats of paint.
Regards Farmer
@jimmo4life What type of clear coat do you use? I find it VERY hard to get the balance between orange peel and runs right. Could it be because I'm using a cheap clear coat brand? I've tried this with a Devilbiss GTI and Iwata AZ3 both set to around 50-60PSI at the gun, and it seems to always come out with bad orange peel or runs. Or both! Help?!
Hey jimmo. What is a very good body shop to go to? I went to Maaco and a few locally owned body shops, but I am unsure about who I should go with. I just bought a '08 GMC Acadia with the Red Jewel Tintcoat. I screwed up by using a Dupli-Color repair kit and on some minor scratch jobs. The estimates I have received are much more than I expected.
so lets say bare metal scratch was exposed semi rusty, I sand it down then apply primer right? then lets say your guide coat found low spots, you apply body filler then sand even. After that I apply a primer over that then do the wetsanding steps? and subscribed to your channel.
new to the whole body work thing, this is probably a really dump question but here goes: We have a 04 tacoma with rust spots on the hood and in various places. I would like to repair it myself (for the experience and the cost) is there anyway I could do this without a spray gun?? btw good music ;)
@SmellyGymShorts YOU CANT BEAT THE SCOTCHY/PASTE METHOD...IT CLEANS AND PREPARES IN ONE STEP...SO EASY. IF YOU REALLY WANT TO USE PAPER, TRY P1200-P1500, BUT YOU NEED TO BE ALOT MORE THOROUGH AS THE PAPER WONT CONFORM TO THE SHAPE OF THE SURFACE LIKE SCOTCHY DOES .
Not trying to be a stickler, but If you can get a full body mask for when you spray your clear. Clear coat is extremely toxic even to get on your body. Painters have a very high risk for getting cancer. Car looks great though!
do you wet sand the base coat and the clear coat at all? im repairing a panel with duplicolor and this is helping me a lot with blending techniques. i wanna get that shine to it. im using spray cans by the way
Can a straight black car be blended-in on the quater panel without noticing the blend from old to new clear coat. The car is chevelle.
Nice job!:)) but may as well take that dust collection bag off your da sander as it doesn't seem to be doing f**K all!! they never do unless you are lucky enough to have a proper dust extractor.
This looks like a great job.
1. Door handle removed.
2. Feathered the lines.
3. Sanded the whole door
4. Cleared the whole door
Can't ask for a better body man / Painter!!!!!!!!!!!!
probably would have went better if you removed the 8 bolts and 1 connector and took the whole door off.
other then that all i see is lack of triggering and maybe blend a little further.
A few hours....maybe 3-4 start to finish.
dodgy as,mate u dont scotch n paste a whole door u do that after u 800p the door with a buzzer with a soft pad. and you also dont blend ur base coat like that either
Nice Video, but is the camera is kept inside a glass wall or just normal. if normal why the paint stains cannot be seen in lens. is it far from the spray work? thnx
wet sanding a guide coat defeats the purpose of a guide coat.
+javarithms 3m guide coat can be use wet and dry as well !!
Good to know, thanks.
Da computers don't give u da identical color u gotta mess wit it add a lil this and dat sumtines u get a good match but mostly no u gotta make da color
@rmjg081 not sure if your language is English but I have no idea what you are saying. What is a buzzer are you meaning to say the DA sander?
Dont mind the Dummy Comments, his is the propper way to repair vehicle scratches, True Craftmanship, good vid, showing good standards.
Thanks for a great teaching video. But I just would have used laquer primer-surfacer with a big glob of nitro-stain putty.. lol The sanding paste you refer to, never heard of that till now. We would just use compound for the blended areas. Great video, thanks again. This dog can learn new tricks!
Iwata w400 around 25 psi
what was the point in the video if you don't explain your processes and what you're using
This is the correct way and what I will do to repair my minor imperfections....thanks
For more information DO NOT watch this video, this guy is obviously inexperienced and is doing an inproper job. =)
what the black thing u put in the hole ? eurethane? what is this? u need a primer after u put it ? plz answer :)
@unlimitededish good to hear, np!
Its not soap its sanding paste I mostly use dat after I sand da blend with 1000 just to go over wat I missed
First timer here, Just finished doing this to my rear panel, looks great...terrible color match on my part >_<
dodgy as,mate u dont scotch n paste a whole door u do that after u 800p the door with a buzzer with a soft pad
3M Dry Graphite Powder
It is a shame that before the clear coat was finished speying the screen hoa 3 ads for subscribe, the spray gun and a tee shirt. Unfortunately the only thing i wanted to see i couldn't epic fail bro you lost my interest in your channel.
Iwata LPH or W400, cant remember
sorry i was ruthlles but for a litle scratch is just to mach work.Come with somthin easy.Sorry again!
ashh!!! por que lijan al seco para luego matar la reparacion lijando al agua!! que barbaridad!!!!
Hi , is grey scotch pad equivalent to 1500 grit. I cannot find grey scotch pad in my country :)
If you put some dishwash liquid in the water the sandpaper clogs less and sands nicer too.
your not explaining what your doing! what the hell
what do you use for the with scrub , and was that a dishwashing sponge o just an cloth?
@Ryan Grey yes it does
...so WHY then does it take 6 months to get your car back from the autobody shop? lol
Hello.Do I need to used a primer paint after grinding under the colour or not?I have a silver car.Thanks.Great Job
at the start it sounded like a guy screaming everyone in the house was wondering wtf
at last an automive video thats enjoyable to wath on you tube, good shout chap :)
That looked more like a big dent than a scratch. MMM maybe i went to the wrong school.
What no filler work? Just high fill. Have they heard of paintless dent repair?
hi!! what do you think about the lph 400-1.4 for clear coat?.....thanks pepe
Glad it helped