Out of curiosity, what is there to love exactly and what filters are you using? I know they have various mileage limits on oils as does Supertech. 5k, 10k and 20k What kind of vehicle, how many miles and what are your oil change intervals?
@Balticblue93 I used to use penzoil high mileage comventional on my then 2007 honda civic. Used to have to add a quart every week. After switching to costcos i only added oil once a month. Sold civic with 265k miles.
@@Balticblue93 other vehicles 2011 Acura MDX and 2015 Toyota Avalon. 5k miles intervals on all my vehicles. No oil loss. Mobil 1 filter for Honda Vehicles and OEM for Toyota.
I stock up on the Costco oil when it goes on sale. Costco has a reputation to protect, that’s why their oil is of high quality, and their gasoline is top-tier.
I haven’t seen it go on sale here in California Costco’s yet. I’ll be sure to buy extra if it does lol. A few years ago the kirkland full synth 2 pack cost 30 bucks and now it’s 40.
I’ve seen it on sale more than twice a year, but I can understand why it might not go on sale in California as they don’t want to promote internal combustion engine use.
Costco Kirkland, Walmart Syntech, Amazon Basics, all made by Warren Manufacturing, and very good oil. Paying more on other brands isn’t going to get you much more. Just use a good filter and change your oil by 5,000 miles.
We also can get Warren oils in other house brands like Meijer Oil and Rural King Oil. I run what’s on sale. Currently I’m using Valvoline Full Synthetic. My Menards had it in sale for $17.99 per 5 qts with 10% back so $16.19 per 5 qts. I picked up 24 5 qt jugs so we are set for 3/4 years. Grab the OE filters at my dealer 6 at a time for $5.49 each.
Kirkland is exactly the same as super tech and Amazon oils. Can’t beat it for the price. I use valvoline synthetic high mileage or Penzoil ultra. Great informative video Thanks
I change the oil in my Toyota every 20,000 to 23,000 miles with mobil -1 and it now has 276,000 miles on it, is nice & clean inside of it, doesn't use a drop of oil in the 20kmile interval. I've also sent my oil to the lab as this guy has done and my report values are the same as his and in some cases better even though my change interval is twice as his. 3k miles is only warranted if you short city driving, especially in cold weather (severe service)
I have a '03 Corolla with a manual I bought new. 270K+ miles and still drives like new & everything works 21 years later. I have rebuilt the starter and adjusted some of the valve clearances but all the other moving parts/AC, water pump, alternator are original. Lots of tires and one set or OEM strut/shock cartridges and brake linings have been all this car needed. Never seen anything so cheap to drive and nothing like it has been available for years now.
One thing to remember is that some oils, most often the ones with inferior base oil characteristics require more additives in order to meet the automotive specifications. It could be that the additive concentrations in the kirkland is higher due to this, but unless you run a FTIR analysis you can't really know for sure. Thanks for the informative video!
Very true sir. It’s very common with group 4 or 5 oils or the natural gas (GTL) base oils like pennzoil uses to use less additives as the base oil is better. Unfortunately the oil manufacturers don’t provide much information but I’m not aware of either oil using that base stock. There is a possibility Mobil 1 blends different base oils with group 3s to keep costs down.
You can check the MSDS for all oils although they don't have list proprietary additives if they are not hazardous, as is my understanding. But the MSDS will say if the oil is PAO synthetic in most cases.
I did 15K oil changes in my 2011 Kia Sedona for years using Mobil 1. Never had an issue, always passed smog, and the engine looked clean when I did the valve cover gaskets close to 200K miles on the van. Modern synthetics are great.
maybe you can get away with that type of interval on a big naturally aspirated 6 cylinder engine, but on a turbo charged engine a 15K mile interval would destroy the engine by 100K miles...especially a 4 cylinder turbo
I have a 4 cy turbo 2.0 VW GTI. I change my oil every 3 to 5k. Closer to 3 than 5. Car has 103k on it... runs awesome. It a 2011, I am hoping to get at least another 100k on it.
Another thing to consider is how long one leaves the oil to drip. We have 3 cars- 2021 Tacoma, 2021 Crosstrek, and a 2017 Jetta. The Crosstrek is done dripping in 10 minutes. The Tacoma is more like 30 minutes, and the Jetta takes 90+ minutes. Let all the drips get out of the crankcase, as you would be surprised how much oil volume a little drip can make! When I took my Taco to the dealership for a "Toyota Care" free oil change, they only had my truck back there for 13 minutes. That was the last time I let somebody else change my oil. I do my cars every 5k. Arguable I should probably change the jetta sooner than that since it is a turbo. I use Castro European oil in the Jetta, and Kirkland and Mobil one interchangeably in the Toyota and Subaru. (They are both 0W-20)
A lot of fuss over nothing. Let it drip for 10 minutes or so. Your cars will never know the difference. My brother once told me he let his oil drain over night!. Some OCD and maybe some insanity going on there.
@@joeblowe7545 Agree. I have an independent Honda garage do mine. They let it drip for about five minutes and cork her up. I have 270K on my 2005 Honda Pilot with 5K conventional oil changes. Probably going to get a 2020 Passport EXL with 17K on it.
I let my V6 Rav drip for probably 30 minutes. I could go longer, but I doubt really makes a difference huge difference. I’m definitely doing longer than a regular shop.
If you live in "The City" or an urban area, your type of driving qualifies as Severe Service; idling at traffic lights, stop and go, short trips, shutting the car off before it's been driven for 30 minutes. Keep that in mind when selecting your oil and determining change intervals.
How does this help us select oil? What you described is exactly my driving conditions, often just twice a day for kids school trip is 2 17 min sessions. My manual says 5W-30
@@NathanBrantleybasically with the type of driving you do, you should be changing your oil every 3-5 thousand miles. Now if you were driving a 100 miles a day to work and back on the highway, you could do 10,000 according to this guy.
Great video! You kept your oil analysis spreadsheet up throughout your detailed walk-through. Most other reviewers like more 'face time' and tend to rush through their presentations. I didn't have to pause the vid to absorb the info. Thank you, I'm headed to Cosco right now!
Thank you sir I appreciate and have used oil analysis to set drain intervals and double-check that what I'm doing is still working. Also you are right on when you talk about the difference between group 3 synthetics and the true synthetic there is a difference 'full synthetic' does not equal 100% synthetic it is a marketing term
New post on old video. Been lurking on BITOG for years; but your video is one of the best I have ever come across on RUclips. Explained very well. Going to try Kirkland based on this video. Thanks.
I have a 2012 Prius and did exactly the same thing you did. Started out with Mobil 1 (which is what Toyota puts their name on) and at about 30,00 switched to Kirkland oil. Car burns no oil and I change the oil once a year or at 10K miles. Car runs beautiful at 90K. Glad to hear your results. Thank You very much.
I have a 2010 Toyota Camry 2.5L four cylinder with a 6 Speed Manual. I drive about 400 miles a week back and forth to work all highway/interstate driving. Going between 70 to 80 mph everyday 5 days a week. I still change my oil at the 5,000 miles mark. I do about 3 to 5 oil changes a year. Thats between 15,000 to 20,000 miles a year. I've been using Castrol for many years and i recently switch to Kirkland 0W-20 due to price point and availability. Pretty good so far. Im currently on my 1st Kirkland bottle now in my Camry. I have over 260,000 miles on the clock and the car doesn't burn no oil.
Excellent presentation. A few comments that you may take any way you like., I have been using Mobil 1 in my cars since 1976. I have not had a single oil related problem with any engine since that time. Before that I had a major brand nonsynthetic oil lose lubricity and destroy an engine in a Plymouth and another oil failure from sludge build up destroy an engine in a Ford. Then again I had an AMC six that ran over 300,000 miles with no problems on that same brand oil. When I sold it the engine was still solid. I used to change synthetic oil every 10,000 miles, but I have seen some engines so sensitive to things like film build up that I am now changing 5,000-mile intervals.
Sure. I've used mostly conventional and synthetic blends up until maybe a few years ago and have never had an oil related failure. There was , and is nothing remarkable about Mobil 1. If you get the warm fuzzies after installing it into your vehicles well then good for you. Just know that there is nothing superior about the so called holy Grail Mobil 1 . All you've been doing is paying more for advertising and a "reputation".
@@joeblowe7545 I agree that there is nothing about Mobil 1, that is better or worse than other synthetic oils. I was an AMC mechanic for years. I saw the insides of many engines after only 100,000 miles on standard oils of the sixties and seventies. I have also torn down an AMC 258 six that had over 300,000 miles on it using Mobil 1. The difference was amazing. Cross hatching in the cylinders with no measurable wear. We miked the cams, lifters and rockers. Everything was still well in speck. There was no measurable wear on the bearings. I never saw an engine still in speck with much lower mileage running on conventional oils in the sixties and seventies. True conventional oils have improved a lot since then, but I will stick with synthetics from now on. BTW that engine had filter changes every 5,000 miles and full oil changes every 15,000 miles. Something I would never do in a modern engine. We ended up cleaning the engine really well and reassembling it, changing out only the piston rings, valves, gaskets and seals. We also changed out the water pump for a newer type developed by AMC.
Nice... too bad they don't make cars like they did back in the early 2000s. Folks need to change their oils every 3 to 5k, depending how you drive and the type of driving you do (in town or highway) Not 10k. That is usually about 2 engine oil changes a year. It's worth it. Espeically if you do it yourself ... get some car ramps (50 bucks)... and it is crazy easy, fast, and you can use the best oil and oil filter .... and you know it was done correctly.
In my experience, just changing any oil on a regular basis (conventional oils 3000 or 3 months , synthetics 5000 or 6 months) usually result in long engine life…….for an average daily drivers … Performance engines are a different story…better oils typically is a better choice especially with turbos are in play.
my ex works for Chevron engine oil department, even she uses mobile1 and not their own company's top oil, she does analysis on her own car after each oil change as well
I had an uncle that worked for Mobil 1. They did a test where they ran an engine 100k miles .. 3k oil changes. They tore the engine down and it still had the wear marks on it... which means the engine had no wear on it. Crazy impressive. I use Mobil 1 European blend in my 2011 VW GTI. It has 103k on it. Drives great. No isses.
You are correct on many things but some things I think need clarification. If you have a naturally aspirated engine and drive all highway miles, going 10K miles between oil changes shouldn't be unreasonable providing certain things are met. First Synthetic oil. Second (and possibly more importantly) using a high quality oil filter that can go at least 10K miles. If your oil filter gets used up at 5k miles, you will have another 5k miles where the filter does nothing. So the filter is important. All oils that follow their designated specification should be OK and then it is a matter of brand preference. A Dexos 1 oil is a Dexos 1 oil. However if you drive lots of city/stop and go driving and/or have a turbo engine with GDI, I think going over 5K miles is pushing it. With City v high driving, it isn't so much the mileage as it is the hours. You do 10 hours of high miles at 75 miles and hour v doing 10 hours of heavy traffic where you drive 200 feet, stop for 2 minute and drive another 200 feet. What is the difference in mileage? what is the difference in hours used? GDIs with Turbos are another animal entirely, these motors need oil that is spotless. Changing every 3-5K I don't think is too much after everything I have read. For somebody like you I think using a quality synthetic oil (and they all pretty much are) with a high quality filter (I think overlooked by many people) is just as important. If you want to know about which filters to buy, there are a few guys out there that cut open and inspect filters. Whip city is a favorite of mine but others are out there too. You'll learn more about oil filters than you ever cared to. But you'll learn which filters to buy and which to avoid.
As far as turbo GDI vs NA Port injection I agree but I would guess that the engine setup is taken into consideration when the manufacturer establishes a maintenance schedule in the first place. My owners manual, and I would guess it would be the same for other brands, dictates the conditions for 10K intervals. In order to qualify for 10K Toyota stipulates synthetic, oil, OE filter, and no severe duty driving (stop and go, short trips, excessive idling). If all of the requirements aren't met it clearly states in the manual to do 5K intervals. This is why I keep repeating in my videos for owners to read their manuals to see if their manufacturer even recommends 10k and what criteria must be met to do it.
@@EnthusiastsGarage Turbos put much higher stress on oils and GDI even higher. Honestly I doubt you will see any turbo and GDI engine last 300,000 miles like you would with the Toyota 1.8 or the Honda 2.0 motors. Also , be skeptical regarding OE consumables, though Toyota sources their filters from Denso which is a good filter. Some do not. A little research goes a long way. A Very dear friend of mine was Master Mechanic for Ford and he taught me plenty. Showed me a few cut up filters and it really opened my eyes.
@@rhelouin it gets so clogged up that the bypass filter activates all the time and the oil doesn’t get filtered anymore and in all fairness, it takes a lot for that to happen
Since I have a high performance engine, 3.5 Ecoboost in my 2019 Raptor, I change my oil every 5,000 miles or annually whichever comes first with Costco 5W-30 and the Motorcraft FL-500S filter.
Even though i am that guy who uses what the manufacturer recommends i cannot say costco stuff is bad, i have found that many kirkland products are just as good if not better than the competition, i wouldn’t be scared to use any of there products
I am a faithful Valvoline Full Synthetic person for my two 2005 Corollas.... I would use Kirkland oil though and have thought about it... It does have a great price point....
i like the valvoline oils as well, especially their full synthetic max life for high mileage engines. it literally stops small oil leaks and stopped my camrys puff of smoke at cold start up
The 10,000 mile oil change interval was driven by European regulations which wanted to reduce the consumption of oil by extending oil change intervals. So for my VW’s I only use oils that meet VW specifications.
Great info…thanks. My former brother-in-law was a petroleum engineer. He was of the mind that the oil you used (assuming appropriate API rating and viscosity grade) was far less important than ensuring regular/shorter oil change intervals, especially for cars with inherent sludge problems created by poor design (e.g., Chrysler 2.7) or more complex engines, such as engines with cylinder deactivation systems. He used to say that full synthetic oils were clearly superior to conventional oils, but unnecessary for most people unless their car maker specifically recommended/required it (e.g., any turbo engine). As he explained it, using synthetic oil was like putting six legs instead of four on the footstool in front of your favorite TV chair. You could do it and your stool would certainly be stronger...but it would just make your stool more expensive and it wasn’t going to make it last any longer.
Thanks for doing the test. Very informative. I've been using the Kirkland oil now for years with great results as all my vehicles generally go to 250K miles or more. However, I change my oil every 5000 miles, not the manufacturer recommended 10K. Oil is cheap--engines are expensive. Especially if you use the cheaper high quality oil from Kirkland. I assume you ran oil to 10K miles to make for easy rounded up number test. But I would never recommend that change interval. The savings from prolonged oil intervals are peanuts to engine wear damage, particularly on turbo engines where the turbos spool at up to 30K RPMs and need oil to keep them cooled, thus degrading the oil faster. Just changed my neighbors oil on 2017 Honda CR-V and it was black because of the turbo even though it had only 6K miles on it.
Consider the fact that he had laboratory analysis done that showed active additive left and no consumption after 10k. I also change at ~5k but I have to admit there is no rational basis to recommend it to others.
@@lenlaskowski7374Trust the test but the analysis was done on a 2015 Toyota Corolla which is one of the most bullet proof motors ever made in the World by Toyota. Change your oil every 5k & don't listen to this guy. If you don't believe me watch The Car Care Nut a 25year certified Master Toyota Mechanic and he screams at the top of his lungs that the 10k recommendation is BS. I trust the guy who has seen and fixed hundreds of blown Toyota & Lexus motors due to oil changes being done every 10k..
Excellent. I have a 2006 Matrix (Corolla) 4WD with 223,000 miles and it runs perfect. Been using Kirkland 5w-30 for the last 100k miles and M1 (at $25/jug) before that with 5k OCI and OEM filter I recently bought 4 jugs for 68 bucks online. Vehicle used for ride share/delivery. I think I've saved over $4000 doing my own oil changes
Before it was Costco, I bought PriceClub oil for my Toyota Supra did a change and went on a trip. After 500 miles, the oil pressure disappeared. I checked the level and it was fine, so I limped home at low speed. After another oil change (with real oil) everything was OK. More recently I have used Walmart and Amazon oils without problems, but it may be a while before I try Costco.
It is possible that the fuel additive freed up the top piston ring. The additive gets pushed into the top ring during the compression stroke. Better ring sealing keeps fuel from passing the rings.
Great posting and kirkland & M1 similarities may explain why only those two burned more in my subaru outback. Once I switched to pennzoil or castrol, the burning was less. Also will be getting those Blackstone analysis for our older porsche boxster, especially for metal.
Very good video. My new Grand Cherokee has a clock for oil change. When I am at around 9K, the clock shows 10% life left. The dealer puts a sticker after an oil change to come back at 5K. Hello???? The service manual states to follow the instruments.
Only follow the manufacturers recommendations on OCIs if you only want to depend on reliability of the engine for the length of the warranty. That is how they set that 10,000 mile number. If you want to own it for 10 years and 200,000 miles change it every 5k.
I service multiple fleets and was at one point using Costco brand because of reviews. Things I noticed; the oil leaves behind a yellow tint residue on parts (head, covers, etc...) as it starts wearing, mobile one does not leave this residue. Also with Kirkland brand I noticed it causes gaskets to prematurely leak; seems like maybe the gaskets are hardening up faster than normal. Besides those two things it performed identical for the most part.
True synthetic oils would cost a few hundred dollars a gallon. This is one of the first videos I have seen that actually gets this correct concerning PAO's and other "synthetic" oils. Just my two cents as a Tribologist. Two thumbs up and WELL DONE!!!
I've been doing 10,000 mile changes for about 20 years, driving around 35,000 miles a year on my main work vehicle. Mix of highway and city. I currently have 310,000 miles on my 2014 3.6l Durango and it's running great. My previous 2006 Mazda was sold with 250k and still running great. I used Mobil1 full synthetic for a long time, then switched to Kirkland a few years ago when it came out. Let oil drain completely every time....and run wix/napa gold filters. Don't even check the oil between changes...probably should start doing that lol
It’s funny when you say I change the oil every 10,000 miles, people freak out they’re still doing 3000 and 5000 miles, lol😅 oil companies love them …….and if you actually read the filters or even on the bottles of oil, they say you can do that, I am with you every 10,000 miles I do the filter about 5000 miles out
Trucks hold a lot more oil. As a item that makes them heavy duty. Cars are not sized to have extra oil( quarts). Since they have bare minimum should change cars more often. Just what I am thinking.
@@johnjohnson9980 My Durango is a 3.6 liter and takes 6 quarts... Mazda just a 2.3 liter and takes 5 quarts. Typical car/suv. I do have a full size truck that takes 7 quarts... but it's also a 5.7 liter with two more cylinders so it makes sense to have a little more oil. But none of my vehicles are heavy duty or have a large oil reserve
@@wohoman2005 Not a bad plan, although I'd cut one open and actually see how much carbon is in there, if it looks clean you could probably stretch that safely too
Interesting but the maintenance light comes on at 5k miles which the manufacturer made it but 10k oil changes is never gonna happen on any of my cars. I personally use Havoline Pro-DS since 2018 which I change at 6 minths regardless of miles. Fuel system cleaner luke BG 44k platinum is key if used once a year. Great video information.
Running 10k miles before changing the oil is a bit long in my opinion. In my opinion, full synthetic oil should be changed at about 5k/6 months. Don't forget to check the oil level every 2k miles (depending on whether the car is old or new), check it more often on older cars. I participate in a lifetime oil change package from Mazda on my CX-5. So I feel very secure about this, because I use the car very little, so every 6 months/2k miles I go to Mazda to change the oil. I don't know how long the motor will last??
The subject of oil filters has been brought up in the comments. Did you use the same brand filter in all your testing and what filter do/did you use? (I know… opening another can of worms…)
I use Kirkland 0w-20 in my 06 Ranger 2.3, 206,000 miles, Napa Gold filter, changed once a year at the end of summer, spends its life short hopping (commute is 1.3 miles each way) or in the hills on dirt roads, no added oil between changes. MIL 2013 Equinox 3.6, 81,000 miles, Kirkland 5w-30, Napa Gold filter, changed when the computer tells me to (between 5,000 and 8,000 miles) and zero issues. 157,000 on my 2013 Altima 2.5. Oil change every 15,000 miles, Ams Sig 0w-20 and Ams oil filter. 20% short hops, 80% 10 miles or more; zero oil added between changes. 19 Santa Fe 2.4, Ams Signature 0w-20 every 15,000; 10% short hops, 90% highway, zero oil added and 55,000 on the clock. Long intervals do not bother me on my long distance vehicles.
My understanding is that TBN is an older standard that is not dialed into oil condition as well as the metric called oxidation. Have you considered getting a used oil analysis for another lab that provides that such as Speediagnostix?
Yes, I have terrible experience with Mobil1 long-term full synthetic. And virgin analysis show that it's not very good compared to competitors like Pennzoil and Valvoline or basically any others to be honest because it always comes in last in virgin oil analysis.
@@ronswanson8563virgin oil analysis is just a baseline to judge you used oil analysis! TBN is still a good metric showing an oils resistance to become acidic
@@ronswanson8563 I check with 540Rat for his recommendations and pretty sure he scorched Mobil 1 extended oil and that it was worse than the regular Mobil 1. I personally stay away from extended use.
I have been using Kirkland 5w30 for my 2010 Yaris for years, and recently, got a 2004 GMC Sierra 5.3 which also uses the same 3W30, so it makes sense for me to continue to buying the two bottle box as it makes it easy for me to make my regular oil changes, but also my vehicles are running great! I drive them fairly hard, moslty on the freeway, especially the Toyota, which is our daily driver. Toytota last change at 165k and truck at 202k So I average around 5000 miles with a good filter.
The issue I have with these tests are that the Mobil1 wasn’t the Extended Performance or High Mileage. I don’t even like Mobil1 because Amsoil Signature Series, Valvoline Extend Performance high mileage, and the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum are far better oils with top quality oil filters are superior and I have the blackstone labs results on five vehicles. And Most vehicles are severe service usage. I recommend 5000-7500 max.
What about the “Base” oil pennzoil PUP oil uses since it’s made from Natural Gas? Is that the “Best”? What base oil does Amsoil use? I change the oil (PUP) in my ‘19 Power Wagon by the hour meter, not the mileage.
Pennzoil PUP "Full Synthetic" is derived from natural gas from the ground (that is composed of a combination of different gases) is considered a Class III (+) Synthetic. Amsoil "100% Synthetic" Motor Oils are a combination of a Class IV Synthetic derived from a cleaner ethylene gas to form PAOs (PolyAlphaOlefins) and a Class V Synthetic such as Esters (or equivalent), without a drop of petroleum. Amsoil won't reveal the exact formula, since they consider it a proprietary secret. Amsoil produced the first synthetic Motor Oil that was approved by the API in 1972, along with the first synthetic ATF, the first synthetic Gear Oil, the first synthetic Diesel Oil, the first synthetic Racing Oil, the first synthetic Marine Oil (all these fluids being 100% synthetic), etc. Amsoil will produce more power by reducing friction better than a full synthetic and also will increase fuel economy for every mile you drive. Since I am an independent Amsoil Dealer (my Amsoil ID and Referral Code: 1420935), if I say Amsoil saves me money on gas, you would be obviously skeptical, which is justifiable (since I am a dealer). You can read the various testimonials from verified buyers (Preferred Customers) regarding their own experience with increased MPG by going on the Amsoil website. The next paragraph demonstrates a verified buyer of Amsoil claiming a 9.2% percentage increase in using Amsoil over Pennzoil PUP, which I trust you will find interesting! By the way, all Amsoil Dealers are not employees of Amsoil, Inc., but are considered independent contractors. I found a “verified customer of Amsoil” ("Mugenizer" from Vancouver, Canada, gender unknown), who wrote a complimentary-email to Amsoil back in April, 2024 claiming not only an Increase in Fuel Economy while using Amsoil Signature Series Motor Oil (after using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Motor Oil), but "Mugenizer" also experienced less ticking sounds coming from "Mugenizer's" engine’s lifters and crankcase, along with a smoother-running engine (resulting from the use of Amsoil), as well! While I have read tons of reviews of verified customers of Amsoil claiming that they experienced an increase in fuel economy with using Amsoil, they either don’t mention their prior brand of motor oil or they mention specific brands of oil (most notably Mobil 1), but not Pennzoil specifically (until 2 months ago). However, I once saw a review from a verified Amsoil customer claiming he received a double-digit fuel economy-increase of at least 10% in his diesel pickup truck with using Amsoil Signature Series Diesel Oil versus Shell Rotella T6 Diesel Oil, which contains the same gas-to-liquid technology as the Shell-owned Pennzoil. I have copied and pasted "Mugenizer's" story in the next paragraph (followed by additional paragraphs that not only convert Canada’s metric system to our measurement system in the USA, but will also reveal "Mugenizer's" percentage of gas mileage improvement, so that we can reasonably calculate how many miles we should expect "Mugenizer's" to save a gallon of gas, along with the surprising amount of gallons of gas (25.23 gallons, to be exact) saved over the course of a typical 5,000 mile Pennzoil oil-change timeframe (where the "net savings" of Amsoil are much more than the initial cheaper price of Pennzoil), which is hereinafter more fully explained, as follows: From the Amsoil Website Concerning Comments from Verified Customers of Various Amsoil Products: "5 star rating WOW! UNEXPECTED RESULTS By MUGENIZER, a Verified Buyer from Vancouver on April 11, 2024: I was using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-20 Full Synthetic for my Honda Pilot 2016 exl with 261K km in it. Obvious crackcase noise & lifter noise. Fuel consumption of 12.9 liters per 100km. Now with using Amsoil Signature Series 0W-20 Full Synthetic...noise in the crankcase & lifters are a lot less. My fuel consumption is now 11.8 liters per 100km. The engine run smoother than it was. I wish i've used Amsoil ever since. Now, i use it in every vehicle i own. I highly recommend this product."
You can skip the following four paragraphs (if you wish), which describes the mathematical equation of converting the metric system to our system in the US. Or you can come back to it later? Canada utilizes the metric system in terms of kilometers per liter (KPL), which must be converted to miles to gallon (MPG) to make it more understandable for Americans. But before that process can be determined, we have to first reduce the multiple liters in his or her example down to one liter, in the same way we understand MPG is a measurement of miles per a single gallon of gas (not multiple gallons of gas). You will notice that "Mugenizer" was getting 12.9 liters per 100 kilometers (kms) while using Pennzoil, but "Mugenizer's" fuel consumption dropped to 11.8 liters per 100 kms (a drop of 1.1 liter) when using Amsoil. So in order to reduce 12.9 liters down to 1 liter, we need not only to divide the liters by 12.9, but also correspondingly divide the kilometers by 12.9. In this case, "Mugenizer" was getting 7.75 kms per liter using Pennzoil. "Mugenizer" was getting 11.8 liters per 100 kms using Amsoil, so by dividing 11.8 into both the 11.8 liters and 100 kms (utilizing the same division method as the last equation) brings the net result of 8.47 kms per liter. That is a 9.2% fuel economy improvement with Amsoil! The 9.2% improvement was derived from the following equation: (8.47 - 7.75 = .72; .72 divided by 7.75 = 9.2%). Converting Kms per Liter to Miles per Gallon requires multiplying the kms by .6213712 to arrive at miles, along with multiplying the liter by 3.785411784 to reach a gallon (and then also multiplying the miles by 3.785411784 as well). Using the aforementioned formula, the Pennzoil MPG calculates to 18.23, whereas the Amsoil MPG is 19.92 (an increased differential of 1.67 MPG in favor of Amsoil and is exactly the same percentage increase in fuel economy as was calculated in the metric system: 9.2%). We need to utilize the Pennzoil MPG of 18.23 in further calculations with the 9.2% gas mileage-improvement to determine the actual gas savings of using Amsoil. How many miles will "Mugenizer" save a gallon of gasoline while using Amsoil instead of Pennzoil? The Answer: 198.16 miles (calculated as follows: 100% divided by 9.2% = 10.87; 10.87 x 18.23 = 198.16). Want to know the amount of gallons of gas saved by "Mugenizer" by using Amsoil in a typical 5,000 mile Pennzoil oil change schedule? Answer: 25.23 gallons of gas! (5,000 divided by 198.16). The total financial cost-savings by "Mugenizer" would be $100.92 (25.23 x $4.00 a gallon)! Enough leftover money to purchase 3-4 five-quart jugs of Pennzoil! So the several dollars a quart "Mugenizer" would have initially saved from originally buying Pennzoil (rather than Amsoil), would have been more offset by burning $100 in extra gasoline (than if "Mugenizer" would have originally bought the Amsoil instead). "Mugenizer" is now using Amsoil in all vehicles, ever since trying it in the Honda Pilot (apparently not considering Pennzoil any longer) and furthermore, "Mugenizer" highly recommends Amsoil!
Furthermore, Amsoil Signature Series lasts longer than Pennzoil. The Amsoil is guaranteed to last 15,000 miles or one year (whichever comes first) if your driving conditions falls into the "severe category" (most folks fall into this category) or 25,000 miles or one year (whichever comes first) if you drive in "normal conditions" (as defined in your owner’s manual), whereas Pennzoil warranties their oil if you change it within the OEM specifications for your vehicle. Also, while exploring the Amsoil Website, you can view the Amsoil Warranty, which is the widest warranty offered by an oil company. Considering you have a 2019 Ram 2500 Power Wagon, its either equipped with the rather high-powered 6.4 liter hemi or the diesel, so I surmise you have the former, where various owners of that vehicle have reported MPG of 10.5 to 12.5. If you get 12 MPG and if you get a similar 9.2% MPG boost from amsoil (like Mugenizer did in the previous example), you would save a $4.00 gallon of gas every 130 miles and over the course of 5,000 miles, you would save $153.84 by saving 38.46 gallons of gas! Does this tempt you in trying the Amsoil Signature Series 100% Synthetic 0W-40 Motor Oil, ATF for your transmission and transfer case and Gear Oil for your differentials? If you or any consumers wish to buy the Amsoil products as a Preferred Customer (PC), they will get the oil at a 25% discount, plus free shipping when they spend $100 (plus receiving a $5 coupon for every $100 you spend). It only costs $10 for a 6 month PC membership (or $20 a year) and there is no requirement to purchase (as there is with so many companies offering a membership for a preferred customer program, where there is an automatic shipment involved). For instance, the oil will only cost you $11.89 a quart as a Preferred Customer, a savings of $3.60 a quart from the retail price of $15.49 a quart (not the $20 a quart mentioned by the creator of this video). Amsoil recently released a less expensive 100% Synthetic "OE" 0W-40 oil that will only cost you $7.49 a quart as a Preferred Customer, a savings of $2.50 a quart from the retail price of $9.99 a quart. I would try the Signature Series first. If you or any viewers are tempted to try Amsoil, I invite you to visit the official website of Amsoil and apply to become my Preferred Customer, by kindly utilizing my Referral Number of 1420935 in the box where they ask “Have a Referral Number? Enter it below:” If you can write down my referral number, before you eventually decide to exit this webpage, it will be appreciated (so that it will be at your fingertips when you get on the official Amsoil website). You can send me (automotivebuff) an email at my gmail address if you have any questions. Thanks!!
There Are Two "Must-See" RUclips Videos entitled "The BEST Prevention For Hemi Lifter Failure! (In My Opinion)," along with "Hemi Tick Prevention Just Got Even Better! #Melling Performance + GIVEAWAY," created by a Well-Spoken Dodge Mechanic on his YT Channel, "Reignited Cycle and Automotive," Describing an Alarming Problem with 2008 & Newer 6.4L & 5.7L Engines that Excessively Idles, Which Causes Premature Lifter and Cam Wear, which can be alleviated with a New Hellcat Oil-Pump designed for the 6.2L Engine. In the Latter Video He Questions Why Replace the Inadequate OEM Oil Pumps on the 5.7 & 6.4 Hemis with a workable $321 Hellcat Oil Pump that Is Currently on Back-Order (that Produces only a 12% Greater Oil Pressure), When a $213 Melling Performance Oil Pump (Available Now at Summit and Jegs) that Produces an Increase of 20% Oil Pressure (to Protect the Cam & Lifters, Even Better than the Hellcat Version)? Did you notice I wrote two additional Replies to my original Reply to your Post? You may not have seen it on your email, but you can view it by reviewing the Comments on the video.
@@jimn.9990 What a lot of nonsense. I might use Amsoil if they'd make if easily accessible & sell it on a retail shelf like other oils. The multi level marketing (pyramid) nonsense makes it so expensive & many people ignore it. I'll continue to use Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, etc with good quality filters. Never had an engine fail in more than 35 years of driving.
I once asked a trusted source if I should use synthetic in my new daily driver. He said, "Don't bother. Just add one of these to each oil change." Then he plunked down a steel quart can of Bardahl oil supplement. I did that two or three times-didn't do analyses. No problems but I switched to M1 anyway because of convenience. I've also read that the manufacturer of store brand motor oils depends on where you live. In the South, it may very well be Warren. In the NE or MW or West, it may be Mobil or Chevron or any other company capable of refining motor oil.
Recently saw a Project Farm video comparing a number of synthetic oils. According to the UOA’s , SuperTech did slightly better than the Kirkland version. Essentially, they are identical. Just saying this because if you don’t have a Costco membership or don’t want one (like me), you can still get a quality synthetic oil at a great price. $18.99 for a 5 quart jug .
from what I can tell its primarily crude, but it is important to note that oils have usually have more than base group in them. amsoil is usually primarily group 4 pao bases, pennzoil's higher end oils are GTL based which is still technically group 3 but its usually more uniform and pure.
I follow the car's recommended frequency according to when the light comes on. Been running Super Tech and Costco for almost 10k miles per oil change without issues.
Not planning to keep my car for more than 100k miles,but not planning to destroy my engine either. I use the Super Tech full syn and change my oil every 4-5k miles.
I agree wholeheartedly that there is no “one size fits all” answer when it comes to oil change interval. I do a lot of short drives during the week (although in the weekends I do longer drives), and therefore I change the oil every 3000 miles. The reason I think I’m not overdoing it is that the color of oil is pretty dark after 3000 miles. Oil is relatively inexpensive but a modern engine is not…
Agree. It's not just the base oil breaking down, it's the additives that keep the oil healthy. Just look at the oil when you drain it. If its black and burnt you waited too long.
Pennzoil PUP "Full Synthetic" is derived from natural gas from the ground (that is composed of a combination of different gases) is considered a Class III (+) Synthetic. Amsoil "100% Synthetic" Motor Oils are a combination of a Class IV Synthetic derived from a cleaner ethylene gas to form PAOs (PolyAlphaOlefins) and a Class V Synthetic such as Esters (or equivulant), without a drop of petroleum. Amsoil won't reveal the exact formula, since they consider it a proprietary secret. Amsoil produced the first synthetic Motor Oil that was approved by the API in 1972, along with the first synthetic ATF, the first synthetic Gear Oil, the first synthetic Diesel Oil, the first synthetic Racing Oil, the first synthetic Marine Oil (all these fluids being 100% synthetic), etc. Amsoil will produce more power by reducing friction better than a full synthetic and also will increase fuel economy for every mile you drive. Since I am an independent Amsoil Dealer (my Amsoil ID and Referral Code: 1420935), if I say Amsoil saves me money on gas, you would be obviously skeptical, which is justifiable (since I am a dealer). You can read the various testimonials from verified buyers (Preferred Customers) regarding their own experience with increased MPG by going on the Amsoil website. The next paragraph demonstrates a verified buyer of Amsoil claiming a 9.2% percentage increase in using Amsoil over Pennzoil PUP, which I trust you will find interesting! By the way, all Amsoil Dealers are not employees of Amsoil, Inc., but are considered independent contractors. I found a “verified customer of Amsoil” ("Mugenizer" from Vancouver, Canada, gender unknown), who wrote a complimentary-email to Amsoil back in April, 2024 claiming not only an Increase in Fuel Economy while using Amsoil Signature Series Motor Oil (after using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Motor Oil), but "Mugenizer" also experienced less ticking sounds coming from "Mugenizer's" engine’s lifters and crankcase, along with a smoother-running engine (resulting from the use of Amsoil), as well! While I have read tons of reviews of verified customers of Amsoil claiming that they experienced an increase in fuel economy with using Amsoil, they either don’t mention their prior brand of motor oil or they mention specific brands of oil (most notably Mobil 1), but not Pennzoil specifically (until 2 months ago). However, I once saw a review from a verified Amsoil customer claiming he received a double-digit fuel economy-increase of at least 10% in his diesel pickup truck with using Amsoil Signature Series Diesel Oil versus Shell Rotella T6 Diesel Oil, which contains the same gas-to-liquid technology as the Shell-owned Pennzoil. I have copied and pasted "Mugenizer's" story in the next paragraph (followed by additional paragraphs that not only convert Canada’s metric system to our measurement system in the USA, but will also reveal "Mugenizer's" percentage of gas mileage improvement, so that we can reasonably calculate how many miles we should expect "Mugenizer's" to save a gallon of gas, along with the surprising amount of gallons of gas (25.23 gallons, to be exact) saved over the course of a typical 5,000 mile Pennzoil oil-change timeframe (where the "net savings" of Amsoil are much more than the initial cheaper price of Pennzoil), which is hereinafter more fully explained, as follows: From the Amsoil Website Concerning Comments from Verified Customers of Various Amsoil Products: "5 star rating WOW! UNEXPECTED RESULTSBy MUGENIZER, a Verified Buyer from Vancouver on April 11, 2024: I was using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-20 Full Synthetic for my Honda Pilot 2016 exl with 261K km in it. Obvious crackcase noise & lifter noise. Fuel consumption of 12.9 liters per 100km. Now with using Amsoil Signature Series 0W-20 Full Synthetic...noise in the crankcase & lifters are a lot less. My fuel consumption is now 11.8 liters per 100km. The engine run smoother than it was. I wish i've used Amsoil ever since. Now, i use it in every vehicle i own. I highly recommend this product."
Canada utilizes the metric system in terms of kilometers per liter (KPL), which must be converted to miles to gallon (MPG) to make it more understandable for Americans. But before that process can be determined, we have to first reduce the multiple liters in his or her example down to one liter, in the same way we understand MPG is a measurement of miles per a single gallon of gas (not multiple gallons of gas). You will notice that "Mugenizer" was getting 12.9 liters per 100 kilometers (kms) while using Pennzoil, but "Mugenizer's" fuel consumption dropped to 11.8 liters per 100 kms (a drop of 1.1 liter) when using Amsoil. So in order to reduce 12.9 liters down to 1 liter, we need not only to divide the liters by 12.9, but also correspondingly divide the kilometers by 12.9. In this case, "Mugenizer" was getting 7.75 kms per liter using Pennzoil. "Mugenizer" was getting 11.8 liters per 100 kms using Amsoil, so by dividing 11.8 into both the 11.8 liters and 100 kms (utilizing the same division method as the last equation) brings the net result of 8.47 kms per liter. That is a 9.2% fuel economy improvement with Amsoil! The 9.2% improvement was derived from the following equation: (8.47 - 7.75 = .72; .72 divided by 7.75 = 9.2%). Converting Kms per Liter to Miles per Gallon requires multiplying the kms by .6213712 to arrive at miles, along with multiplying the liter by 3.785411784 to reach a gallon (and then also multiplying the miles by 3.785411784 as well). Using the aforementioned formula, the Pennzoil MPG calculates to 18.23, whereas the Amsoil MPG is 19.92 (an increased differential of 1.67 MPG in favor of Amsoil and is exactly the same percentage increase in fuel economy as was calculated in the metric system: 9.2%). We need to utilize the Pennzoil MPG of 18.23 in further calculations with the 9.2% gas mileage-improvement to determine the actual gas savings of using Amsoil. How many miles will "Mugenizer" save a gallon of gasoline while using Amsoil instead of Pennzoil? The Answer: 198.16 miles (calculated as follows: 100% divided by 9.2% = 10.87; 10.87 x 18.23 = 198.16). Want to know the amount of gallons of gas saved by "Mugenizer" by using Amsoil in a typical 5,000 mile Pennzoil oil change schedule? Answer: 25.23 gallons of gas! (5,000 divided by 198.16). The total financial cost-savings by "Mugenizer" would be $100.92 (25.23 x $4.00 a gallon)! Enough leftover money to purchase 3-4 five-quart jugs of Pennzoil! So the several dollars a quart "Mugenizer" would have initially saved from originally buying Pennzoil (rather than Amsoil), would have been more offset by burning $100 in extra gasoline (than if "Mugenizer" would have originally bought the Amsoil instead). "Mugenizer" is now using Amsoil in all vehicles, ever since trying it in the Honda Pilot (apparently not considering Pennzoil any longer) and furthermore, "Mugenizer" highly recommends Amsoil! Furthermore, Amsoil Signature Series lasts longer than Pennzoil. The Amsoil is guaranteed to last 15,000 miles or one year (whichever comes first) if your driving conditions falls into the "severe category" (most folks fall into this category) or 25,000 miles or one year (whichever comes first) if you drive in "normal conditions" (as defined in your owner’s manual), whereas Pennzoil warranties their oil if you change it within the OEM specifications for your vehicle. Also, while exploring the Amsoil Website, you can view the Amsoil Warranty, which is the widest warranty offered by an oil company.
If you or any consumers wish to buy the Amsoil products as a Preferred Customer (PC), they will get the oil at a 25% discount, plus free shipping when they spend $100 (plus receiving a $5 coupon for every $100 you spend). It only costs $10 for a 6 month PC membership (or $20 a year) and there is no requirement to purchase (as there is with so many companies offering a membership for a preferred customer program, where there is an automatic shipment involved). For instance, the oil will only cost you $11.89 a quart as a Preferred Customer, a savings of $3.60 a quart from the retail price of $15.49 a quart (not the $20 a quart mentioned by the creator of this video). Amsoil recently released a less expensive 100% Synthetic "OE" 0W-40 oil that will only cost you $7.49 a quart as a Preferred Customer, a savings of $2.50 a quart from the retail price of $9.99 a quart. I would try the Signature Series first. If you or any viewers are tempted to try Amsoil, I invite you to visit the official website of Amsoil and apply to become my Preferred Customer, by kindly utilizing my Referral Number of 1420935 in the box where they ask “Have a Referral Number? Enter it below:” If you can write down my referral number, before you eventually decide to exit this webpage, it will be appreciated (so that it will be at your fingertips when you get on the official Amsoil website). You can send me (automotivebuff) an email at my gmail address if you have any questions. Thanks!!
There Are Two "Must-See" RUclips Videos entitled "The BEST Prevention For Hemi Lifter Failure! (In My Opinion)," along with "Hemi Tick Prevention Just Got Even Better! #Melling Performance + GIVEAWAY," created by a Well-Spoken Dodge Mechanic on his YT Channel, "Reignited Cycle and Automotive," Describing an Alarming Problem with 2008 & Newer 6.4L & 5.7L Engines that Excessively Idles, Which Causes Premature Lifter and Cam Wear, which can be alleviated with a New Hellcat Oil-Pump designed for the 6.2L Engine. In the Latter Video He Questions Why Replace the Inadequate OEM Oil Pumps on the 5.7 & 6.4 Hemis with a workable $321 Hellcat Oil Pump that Is Currently on Back-Order (that Produces only a 12% Greater Oil Pressure), When a $213 Melling Performance Oil Pump (Available Now at Summit and Jegs) that Produces an Increase of 20% Oil Pressure (to Protect the Cam & Lifters, Even Better than the Hellcat Version)? Did you notice I wrote two additional Replies to my original Reply to your Post? You may not have seen it on your email, but you can view it by reviewing the Comments on the video.
I’ve always used Motorcraft (semi synthetic) on all my Ford trucks with good results, no oil consumption between changes at 5,000 miles or one year whichever comes first, Pennzoil on my other SUV’s, I’d say just go with a good quality oil, my cousin for example uses Castrol oils for his vehicles, my father favored Valvoline, we have a family history in construction work traveling hundreds of miles a week to different job locations, we’ve all had cars well over 200,000 - 300,000 miles a few at 450,000 plus miles.
@@marlu6373 Thanks, 5k has always worked well for my vehicles, I don’t use any of the Eco-oils like the 0W-16 or 20, I check oil regularly and top off if needed between oil changes, as far as full synthetic it may only give you an extra 1,000 miles of use compared to conventional or synthetic blend oils!
Using quality synthetic oil I have been comfortable with oil and filter changes at 10,000 kms (6000 miles) when the majority of driving was highway. Less highway driving with more local around town or urban driving max is 6,000 kms (~3,800 miles) is the max change interval, prefer 5,000 kms (3,000 molies). Oil is cheap compared to wearing out or damaging an engine.
@@JJPARRA1974 yeah, the price is almost the same, so i figure why not. also i dont believe synthetic oil is that much better than conventional oil. i think its mostly a gimmick
@cantwealljustgetalong2 brother let me tell you that i believed that also years ago. But now a days the synthetic oil is amazing for our cars. I have a motorhome and many cars including a harley. I wouldn't trust regular oil any longer since I switched over. It's detergents and heat lessening properties are amazing..... Give it a shot sir
@JJPARRA1974 The issue with extended oil change intervals isnt the quality of the oil, it's what gets in the oil such as carbon, moisture, fuel. No oil is good enough to shrug that off.
Interesting. Looks as good as M1 here. I use Walmart Full Synthetic, which I believe is the same oil as the Costco and Amazon oils. All from Warren Industries and quality products. Recent oil change in my V-6 Silverado is noticeably different than the Pennzoil Platinum that was in it. Engine is quieter on acceleration, much quieter once at speed, and normal engine noises are more subdued at idle. I used a Fram Ultra filter and have been doing so, so the only difference is the oil. I do the changes myself. Very impressed. If I had a Costco near me, I'd run that without any concerns.
Thank you for your time on doing all this test. Question for you. Does the bottle for your Kirkland oil say Dexos Gen 3? Or Gen 2? Thank you in advance!
Mobil 1 0w20 $50++/10gal. Kirkland $29.99/10gal (on sale right now). Kirkland just as good. Every oil change for my fleet is 23 quarts across 4 cars. Been running Kirkland in my Suburban from 30k to about now 83k. Doesn't burn a drop between 5k changes. Now startup noise. My Acura with 135k miles... Kirkland for about 80k miles. Excellent running engine not oil burning at all.
@@steverugerguy9606 First off, I was a Mobil1 fan boy for half my life. After the new formula came out, my oil analysis for my vehicles were coming back with negative results. I spent hundreds of hours and countless dollars and now I know the three best oils are Valvoline Extended Performance High Mileage, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and Amsoil Signature Series plus the best quality filters. Amsoil EAO, Fram Endurance, Royal Purple Extended life and Purolator Boss. I gave all the Blackstone labs result on five different vehicles testing these oils and filters. Mobil1 is middle of the row now. Facts are facts. Hell Warren oil from Kirkland and Supertech are on par with Mobil1 Extended Performance. I was really unhappy with the results and felt like it was bs until test after test came back. I mean, it sure beats any Synthetic blend or conventional though. For thr costs of the big three at Amazon and Walmart, you can’t beat them. All SRT vehicles are factory fill Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and I researched till my mind exploded.
@@steverugerguy9606 Junk might be harsh but no comparison to the ones I listed in my other response. It will do a fine job for 4000-5000 miles and an upgraded filters. Once they changed to the filters ending in A, they blew it. So, get a better filter, if you run MB1 EP HM. I run high mileage because of the wear additives and high TBN. But I do have 15 more oil tests coming in the future to compare.
Good testing and info. Thanks for bringing this to us. I think for these tests, a fuel additive should be used every 2000 miles. But use a lubricant type, and the same one, so the test will not have another variable. Use the recommended concentration. I agree that 10,000 miles on an oil change is ok for 90 % freeway driving, AND a fairly new engine (less than 100K miles). 5000 for mostly city driving.
Should I wait for my dashboard check engine light on an oil change monitor notification before my oil change? Should I still change my 2011 Lexus RX 450h's oil, even if my SAE 0W-20 synthetic oil is a clear amber color (not dark), after 3 years of driving 1000 miles only?
Only an oil analysis can reliably tell if the 3 year-old oil with 1,000 miles on it is still useable. Your hybrid battery is not conducive to prolonged sitting without driving, which will severely shorten the hybrid battery's life!
Would love to see an equivalent oil analysis of the same brands from the older Volvo turbocharged 5cyl engines. Those were known to be very harsh on oils
Don't forget all the start/stops with almost all new cars with the auto-off/on at the light feature. I hate it, thankfully I only have to just press the button to turn it off. So grateful I don't have to hold it down for 5-10 seconds.
I hate it too with the added drag on the starter plus all the extra electronics. It's a touchy feely thing that makes some people feel good about themselves.
What filter was used? Did you use the same type each time? some filters can filter better than others because they have higher efficiency. This will make a difference in some of the impurities you see in the oil.
As a scientist myself the only variable that I found, but a major variable is the sample test dates ! They are approximately two years apart, therefore I hypothesize that the Kirkland oil formulation was improved over that two year span difference, therefore the Kirkland oil results look similar to the mobil 1 oil
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Been using Costco's oil for my 2 vehicles for more than 5 years and absolutely love it.
Out of curiosity, what is there to love exactly and what filters are you using?
I know they have various mileage limits on oils as does Supertech. 5k, 10k and 20k
What kind of vehicle, how many miles and what are your oil change intervals?
@Balticblue93 I used to use penzoil high mileage comventional on my then 2007 honda civic. Used to have to add a quart every week. After switching to costcos i only added oil once a month. Sold civic with 265k miles.
@@Balticblue93 other vehicles 2011 Acura MDX and 2015 Toyota Avalon. 5k miles intervals on all my vehicles. No oil loss. Mobil 1 filter for Honda Vehicles and OEM for Toyota.
@@violinforever
Add a quart a week? there is a leak somewhere.
No better value out there. When on sale it can't be beat even by Amazon or Walmart supertech
I stock up on the Costco oil when it goes on sale. Costco has a reputation to protect, that’s why their oil is of high quality, and their gasoline is top-tier.
I haven’t seen it go on sale here in California Costco’s yet. I’ll be sure to buy extra if it does lol. A few years ago the kirkland full synth 2 pack cost 30 bucks and now it’s 40.
@@erike7297it’s on sale in warehouse right now. 2 jugs of 5 qt each jug. 30.99.
@@erike7297 it goes on sale about twice a year
@erike7297 Kirkland oil is on sale right now. I just nought 10 quarts on Sunday. Their sales should be nationwide.
I’ve seen it on sale more than twice a year, but I can understand why it might not go on sale in California as they don’t want to promote internal combustion engine use.
Costco Kirkland, Walmart Syntech, Amazon Basics, all made by Warren Manufacturing, and very good oil. Paying more on other brands isn’t going to get you much more. Just use a good filter and change your oil by 5,000 miles.
Correct only oil that’s is a little better than Mobil 1 is shell roto full synthetic very hard to find.
We also can get Warren oils in other house brands like Meijer Oil and Rural King Oil.
I run what’s on sale. Currently I’m using Valvoline Full Synthetic. My Menards had it in sale for $17.99 per 5 qts with 10% back so $16.19 per 5 qts. I picked up 24 5 qt jugs so we are set for 3/4 years. Grab the OE filters at my dealer 6 at a time for $5.49 each.
@@chrisanderson4799 You’re from the Upper Midwest then. I wish we had Menards in my area.
Totally agree! Amazon oil is very good! A lot of the oil is made by the same companies
Couldn’t have said it better!
Kirkland is exactly the same as super tech and Amazon oils. Can’t beat it for the price. I use valvoline synthetic high mileage or Penzoil ultra. Great informative video Thanks
My Honda I used Castrol I change 3k miles no matter what oil it has 355k miles on it now still runs good
It also depends on the oil type.
smart
I change the oil in my Toyota every 20,000 to 23,000 miles with mobil -1 and it now has 276,000 miles on it, is nice & clean inside of it, doesn't use a drop of oil in the 20kmile interval. I've also sent my oil to the lab as this guy has done and my report values are the same as his and in some cases better even though my change interval is twice as his. 3k miles is only warranted if you short city driving, especially in cold weather (severe service)
And you are changing WAY too frequently
@@WaterDR-tw8rethere's no such thing.
Great commuter you have there. I rock a ‘12 civic coupe manual transmission and plan to run it for another 20 years.
I have a '03 Corolla with a manual I bought new. 270K+ miles and still drives like new & everything works 21 years later. I have rebuilt the starter and adjusted some of the valve clearances but all the other moving parts/AC, water pump, alternator are original. Lots of tires and one set or OEM strut/shock cartridges and brake linings have been all this car needed. Never seen anything so cheap to drive and nothing like it has been available for years now.
I have a 2002 Saturn SL2 with about 180,000 miles that still runs perfectly.
One thing to remember is that some oils, most often the ones with inferior base oil characteristics require more additives in order to meet the automotive specifications. It could be that the additive concentrations in the kirkland is higher due to this, but unless you run a FTIR analysis you can't really know for sure. Thanks for the informative video!
Very true sir. It’s very common with group 4 or 5 oils or the natural gas (GTL) base oils like pennzoil uses to use less additives as the base oil is better. Unfortunately the oil manufacturers don’t provide much information but I’m not aware of either oil using that base stock. There is a possibility Mobil 1 blends different base oils with group 3s to keep costs down.
@@EnthusiastsGaragelook at this. It'll clarify many questions about mobil 1 brand.
ruclips.net/video/NJanSk3hBus/видео.htmlsi=2z1V25YDGAmx_Tt0
Yes !
Use ACEA
You can check the MSDS for all oils although they don't have list proprietary additives if they are not hazardous, as is my understanding. But the MSDS will say if the oil is PAO synthetic in most cases.
I did 15K oil changes in my 2011 Kia Sedona for years using Mobil 1. Never had an issue, always passed smog, and the engine looked clean when I did the valve cover gaskets close to 200K miles on the van. Modern synthetics are great.
maybe you can get away with that type of interval on a big naturally aspirated 6 cylinder engine, but on a turbo charged engine a 15K mile interval would destroy the engine by 100K miles...especially a 4 cylinder turbo
@@cantwealljustgetalong2 Fair point. I would not stretch a turbo engine to 15K or even 10K oil changes.
That’s great, I’d have the oil analyse.
I have a 4 cy turbo 2.0 VW GTI. I change my oil every 3 to 5k. Closer to 3 than 5. Car has 103k on it... runs awesome. It a 2011, I am hoping to get at least another 100k on it.
With kia you should change your oil every 3 to 5 thousand they tend to burn oil
I first used synthetic oil in 1977. I purchased Amsoil back then and yes it was EXPENSIVE!
Big Daddy Don Garlits, Kendall Motorola got me hooked, but then they quit selling it around here
I still buy it - $11/qt
Another thing to consider is how long one leaves the oil to drip. We have 3 cars- 2021 Tacoma, 2021 Crosstrek, and a 2017 Jetta. The Crosstrek is done dripping in 10 minutes. The Tacoma is more like 30 minutes, and the Jetta takes 90+ minutes. Let all the drips get out of the crankcase, as you would be surprised how much oil volume a little drip can make! When I took my Taco to the dealership for a "Toyota Care" free oil change, they only had my truck back there for 13 minutes. That was the last time I let somebody else change my oil. I do my cars every 5k. Arguable I should probably change the jetta sooner than that since it is a turbo. I use Castro European oil in the Jetta, and Kirkland and Mobil one interchangeably in the Toyota and Subaru. (They are both 0W-20)
100% correct. I pull the drain plug and then walk away for an hour or two and find something else to do.
Yes for sure on the Turbos... change it every 3k. A Turbo is expensive. Oil is not expensive in comparison.
A lot of fuss over nothing. Let it drip for 10 minutes or so. Your cars will never know the difference. My brother once told me he let his oil drain over night!. Some OCD and maybe some insanity going on there.
@@joeblowe7545 Agree. I have an independent Honda garage do mine. They let it drip for about five minutes and cork her up. I have 270K on my 2005 Honda Pilot with 5K conventional oil changes. Probably going to get a 2020 Passport EXL with 17K on it.
I let my V6 Rav drip for probably 30 minutes. I could go longer, but I doubt really makes a difference huge difference. I’m definitely doing longer than a regular shop.
If you live in "The City" or an urban area, your type of driving qualifies as Severe Service; idling at traffic lights, stop and go, short trips, shutting the car off before it's been driven for 30 minutes. Keep that in mind when selecting your oil and determining change intervals.
yup he does state this at 15:10
How does this help us select oil? What you described is exactly my driving conditions, often just twice a day for kids school trip is 2 17 min sessions. My manual says 5W-30
@@NathanBrantley This goes for all types and brands of engine oil.
@@NathanBrantley
Use the same oil as the manufacturer recomends just change it more often
@@NathanBrantleybasically with the type of driving you do, you should be changing your oil every 3-5 thousand miles. Now if you were driving a 100 miles a day to work and back on the highway, you could do 10,000 according to this guy.
I switched to Costco oil. Great quality like pretty much everything Costco has. Always changed oil every 5k miles religiously.
Facts
This guy is quite smart and his content is organized, interesting, and relevant. Great stuff!
like he said the numbers tell the story.
Thanks for this test! Good to know Kirkland oil is good.
I'm just to add one more comingI have been a Costco member for 35 years
And I always Costco oil Kirkland
As for I remember
I'm just to add one more comingI have been a Costco member for 35 years
And I always Costco oil Kirkland
As for I remember
With high-mileage engines, I am most worried about fuel contamination / particulate contamination. Going to start buying Costco oil!!!
Great video! You kept your oil analysis spreadsheet up throughout your detailed walk-through. Most other reviewers like more 'face time' and tend to rush through their presentations. I didn't have to pause the vid to absorb the info. Thank you, I'm headed to Cosco right now!
Thank you sir I appreciate and have used oil analysis to set drain intervals and double-check that what I'm doing is still working. Also you are right on when you talk about the difference between group 3 synthetics and the true synthetic there is a difference 'full synthetic' does not equal 100% synthetic it is a marketing term
New post on old video. Been lurking on BITOG for years; but your video is one of the best I have ever come across on RUclips. Explained very well. Going to try Kirkland based on this video. Thanks.
I'd really like to see a comparison on Amsoil !!!
I have a 2012 Prius and did exactly the same thing you did. Started out with Mobil 1 (which is what Toyota puts their name on) and at about 30,00 switched to Kirkland oil. Car burns no oil and I change the oil once a year or at 10K miles. Car runs beautiful at 90K. Glad to hear your results. Thank You very much.
I have a 2010 Toyota Camry 2.5L four cylinder with a 6 Speed Manual. I drive about 400 miles a week back and forth to work all highway/interstate driving. Going between 70 to 80 mph everyday 5 days a week. I still change my oil at the 5,000 miles mark. I do about 3 to 5 oil changes a year. Thats between 15,000 to 20,000 miles a year. I've been using Castrol for many years and i recently switch to Kirkland 0W-20 due to price point and availability. Pretty good so far. Im currently on my 1st Kirkland bottle now in my Camry. I have over 260,000 miles on the clock and the car doesn't burn no oil.
What brand and model of oil filter you use for your application?
@@armando9293 I use either the TRD Oil filter or the OEM Oil Filter, which I both buy from my local Toyota Dealership.
You can't beat a Toyota engine. Change oil and they'll run forever
@@armando9293 Always OEM nothing else.
Excellent presentation. A few comments that you may take any way you like., I have been using Mobil 1 in my cars since 1976. I have not had a single oil related problem with any engine since that time. Before that I had a major brand nonsynthetic oil lose lubricity and destroy an engine in a Plymouth and another oil failure from sludge build up destroy an engine in a Ford. Then again I had an AMC six that ran over 300,000 miles with no problems on that same brand oil. When I sold it the engine was still solid. I used to change synthetic oil every 10,000 miles, but I have seen some engines so sensitive to things like film build up that I am now changing 5,000-mile intervals.
Sure. I've used mostly conventional and synthetic blends up until maybe a few years ago and have never had an oil related failure. There was , and is nothing remarkable about Mobil 1. If you get the warm fuzzies after installing it into your vehicles well then good for you. Just know that there is nothing superior about the so called holy Grail Mobil 1 . All you've been doing is paying more for advertising and a "reputation".
@@joeblowe7545 I agree that there is nothing about Mobil 1, that is better or worse than other synthetic oils. I was an AMC mechanic for years. I saw the insides of many engines after only 100,000 miles on standard oils of the sixties and seventies. I have also torn down an AMC 258 six that had over 300,000 miles on it using Mobil 1. The difference was amazing. Cross hatching in the cylinders with no measurable wear. We miked the cams, lifters and rockers. Everything was still well in speck. There was no measurable wear on the bearings. I never saw an engine still in speck with much lower mileage running on conventional oils in the sixties and seventies. True conventional oils have improved a lot since then, but I will stick with synthetics from now on. BTW that engine had filter changes every 5,000 miles and full oil changes every 15,000 miles. Something I would never do in a modern engine. We ended up cleaning the engine really well and reassembling it, changing out only the piston rings, valves, gaskets and seals. We also changed out the water pump for a newer type developed by AMC.
Was it a Pacer goldfish bowl? Best visibility of any hardtop in history!
2007 Acura RL with 397,000 miles on it and I've always use OEM filter + Castrol Syntech oil on it. Finaly gave it to my son.
what was the viscosity of the oil you used and how often did you change?
Nice... too bad they don't make cars like they did back in the early 2000s. Folks need to change their oils every 3 to 5k, depending how you drive and the type of driving you do (in town or highway) Not 10k. That is usually about 2 engine oil changes a year. It's worth it. Espeically if you do it yourself ... get some car ramps (50 bucks)... and it is crazy easy, fast, and you can use the best oil and oil filter .... and you know it was done correctly.
Honda engines
270K on our 2005 Pilot with Dino oil.
In my experience, just changing any oil on a regular basis (conventional oils 3000 or 3 months , synthetics 5000 or 6 months) usually result in long engine life…….for an average daily drivers …
Performance engines are a different story…better oils typically is a better choice especially with turbos are in play.
my ex works for Chevron engine oil department, even she uses mobile1 and not their own company's top oil, she does analysis on her own car after each oil change as well
I had an uncle that worked for Mobil 1. They did a test where they ran an engine 100k miles .. 3k oil changes. They tore the engine down and it still had the wear marks on it... which means the engine had no wear on it. Crazy impressive. I use Mobil 1 European blend in my 2011 VW GTI. It has 103k on it. Drives great. No isses.
You are correct on many things but some things I think need clarification. If you have a naturally aspirated engine and drive all highway miles, going 10K miles between oil changes shouldn't be unreasonable providing certain things are met. First Synthetic oil. Second (and possibly more importantly) using a high quality oil filter that can go at least 10K miles. If your oil filter gets used up at 5k miles, you will have another 5k miles where the filter does nothing. So the filter is important. All oils that follow their designated specification should be OK and then it is a matter of brand preference. A Dexos 1 oil is a Dexos 1 oil. However if you drive lots of city/stop and go driving and/or have a turbo engine with GDI, I think going over 5K miles is pushing it. With City v high driving, it isn't so much the mileage as it is the hours. You do 10 hours of high miles at 75 miles and hour v doing 10 hours of heavy traffic where you drive 200 feet, stop for 2 minute and drive another 200 feet. What is the difference in mileage? what is the difference in hours used? GDIs with Turbos are another animal entirely, these motors need oil that is spotless. Changing every 3-5K I don't think is too much after everything I have read.
For somebody like you I think using a quality synthetic oil (and they all pretty much are) with a high quality filter (I think overlooked by many people) is just as important.
If you want to know about which filters to buy, there are a few guys out there that cut open and inspect filters. Whip city is a favorite of mine but others are out there too. You'll learn more about oil filters than you ever cared to. But you'll learn which filters to buy and which to avoid.
As far as turbo GDI vs NA Port injection I agree but I would guess that the engine setup is taken into consideration when the manufacturer establishes a maintenance schedule in the first place. My owners manual, and I would guess it would be the same for other brands, dictates the conditions for 10K intervals. In order to qualify for 10K Toyota stipulates synthetic, oil, OE filter, and no severe duty driving (stop and go, short trips, excessive idling). If all of the requirements aren't met it clearly states in the manual to do 5K intervals. This is why I keep repeating in my videos for owners to read their manuals to see if their manufacturer even recommends 10k and what criteria must be met to do it.
@@EnthusiastsGarage Turbos put much higher stress on oils and GDI even higher. Honestly I doubt you will see any turbo and GDI engine last 300,000 miles like you would with the Toyota 1.8 or the Honda 2.0 motors. Also , be skeptical regarding OE consumables, though Toyota sources their filters from Denso which is a good filter. Some do not. A little research goes a long way. A Very dear friend of mine was Master Mechanic for Ford and he taught me plenty. Showed me a few cut up filters and it really opened my eyes.
How does an oil filter get used up?
@@rhelouin it gets so clogged up that the bypass filter activates all the time and the oil doesn’t get filtered anymore and in all fairness, it takes a lot for that to happen
@@jamescaron6465if the filter is really high quality wouldn't it clog more/faster than a low quality filter which is not filtering as well?
Since I have a high performance engine, 3.5 Ecoboost in my 2019 Raptor, I change my oil every 5,000 miles or annually whichever comes first with Costco 5W-30 and the Motorcraft FL-500S filter.
Even though i am that guy who uses what the manufacturer recommends i cannot say costco stuff is bad, i have found that many kirkland products are just as good if not better than the competition, i wouldn’t be scared to use any of there products
I would imagine then , that SuperTech would be right up there with the Kirkland since it’s also made by Warren Distribution.
could be some small variances in the additives package but they should be pretty close.
I am a faithful Valvoline Full Synthetic person for my two 2005 Corollas.... I would use Kirkland oil though and have thought about it... It does have a great price point....
Do it. Value is key
i like the valvoline oils as well, especially their full synthetic max life for high mileage engines. it literally stops small oil leaks and stopped my camrys puff of smoke at cold start up
@@cantwealljustgetalong2 Switching to synthetic with 60-70K can produce seepage from the gaskets.
$38.99
@lalajee143 I doubt there are too many bad oils out there these days. I only drive 7500 miles per year so I will stay with Valvoline
The 10,000 mile oil change interval was driven by European regulations which wanted to reduce the consumption of oil by extending oil change intervals. So for my VW’s I only use oils that meet VW specifications.
been using Costco oil for 10 years now...300k miles on an 06 Sequoia and still on original engine/trans.
Great info…thanks. My former brother-in-law was a petroleum engineer. He was of the mind that the oil you used (assuming appropriate API rating and viscosity grade) was far less important than ensuring regular/shorter oil change intervals, especially for cars with inherent sludge problems created by poor design (e.g., Chrysler 2.7) or more complex engines, such as engines with cylinder deactivation systems. He used to say that full synthetic oils were clearly superior to conventional oils, but unnecessary for most people unless their car maker specifically recommended/required it (e.g., any turbo engine).
As he explained it, using synthetic oil was like putting six legs instead of four on the footstool in front of your favorite TV chair. You could do it and your stool would certainly be stronger...but it would just make your stool more expensive and it wasn’t going to make it last any longer.
All oils have an API, American Petroleum Institute, rating. Please include the ratings of these oils in your analysis.
Thanks for doing the test. Very informative. I've been using the Kirkland oil now for years with great results as all my vehicles generally go to 250K miles or more. However, I change my oil every 5000 miles, not the manufacturer recommended 10K. Oil is cheap--engines are expensive. Especially if you use the cheaper high quality oil from Kirkland. I assume you ran oil to 10K miles to make for easy rounded up number test. But I would never recommend that change interval. The savings from prolonged oil intervals are peanuts to engine wear damage, particularly on turbo engines where the turbos spool at up to 30K RPMs and need oil to keep them cooled, thus degrading the oil faster. Just changed my neighbors oil on 2017 Honda CR-V and it was black because of the turbo even though it had only 6K miles on it.
Excellent advice
Consider the fact that he had laboratory analysis done that showed active additive left and no consumption after 10k. I also change at ~5k but I have to admit there is no rational basis to recommend it to others.
So you don't trust the oil analysis?
Oil color does not tell you anything!
@@lenlaskowski7374Trust the test but the analysis was done on a 2015 Toyota Corolla which is one of the most bullet proof motors ever made in the World by Toyota. Change your oil every 5k & don't listen to this guy. If you don't believe me watch The Car Care Nut a 25year certified Master Toyota Mechanic and he screams at the top of his lungs that the 10k recommendation is BS. I trust the guy who has seen and fixed hundreds of blown Toyota & Lexus motors due to oil changes being done every 10k..
Excellent. I have a 2006 Matrix (Corolla) 4WD with 223,000 miles and it runs perfect. Been using Kirkland 5w-30 for the last 100k miles and M1 (at $25/jug) before that with 5k OCI and OEM filter I recently bought 4 jugs for 68 bucks online. Vehicle used for ride share/delivery. I think I've saved over $4000 doing my own oil changes
Before it was Costco, I bought PriceClub oil for my Toyota Supra did a change and went on a trip. After 500 miles, the oil pressure disappeared. I checked the level and it was fine, so I limped home at low speed. After another oil change (with real oil) everything was OK. More recently I have used Walmart and Amazon oils without problems, but it may be a while before I try Costco.
They are exactly the same oil. The same company makes them for all 3 of them
It is possible that the fuel additive freed up the top piston ring. The additive gets pushed into the top ring during the compression stroke. Better ring sealing keeps fuel from passing the rings.
Great posting and kirkland & M1 similarities may explain why only those two burned more in my subaru outback. Once I switched to pennzoil or castrol, the burning was less. Also will be getting those Blackstone analysis for our older porsche boxster, especially for metal.
It's a Subaru thing.
Very good video. My new Grand Cherokee has a clock for oil change. When I am at around 9K, the clock shows 10% life left. The dealer puts a sticker after an oil change to come back at 5K. Hello???? The service manual states to follow the instruments.
Only follow the manufacturers recommendations on OCIs if you only want to depend on reliability of the engine for the length of the warranty. That is how they set that 10,000 mile number. If you want to own it for 10 years and 200,000 miles change it every 5k.
Always been using Kirkland/Walmart oils for years at 4k miles with no issues but switched to ST advanced synthetic.
I service multiple fleets and was at one point using Costco brand because of reviews. Things I noticed; the oil leaves behind a yellow tint residue on parts (head, covers, etc...) as it starts wearing, mobile one does not leave this residue. Also with Kirkland brand I noticed it causes gaskets to prematurely leak; seems like maybe the gaskets are hardening up faster than normal. Besides those two things it performed identical for the most part.
Dusty conditions and temperatures above 90 degrees F calls for a more frequent change.
My engine air intake filter is always sparkly white.
Good score for Costco but a better +++ rating for Blackstone, their tests are the best for the $$$. Bob in Nevada
2008 Ford F150 4wd - 352k mis. Owned since new. Every 5k mi OCI w/Pennzoil full synthetic & Motorcraft filters.
in a 2001 tahoe, the oil pressure dropped after 3000 km with kirkland... went back to castrol and the pressure went to normal
True synthetic oils would cost a few hundred dollars a gallon. This is one of the first videos I have seen that actually gets this correct concerning PAO's and other "synthetic" oils. Just my two cents as a Tribologist. Two thumbs up and WELL DONE!!!
Sir:
What group of synthetic oil is the Kirkland oil belong to ? and who is the OEM for the Kirkland oil.
Thanks.
I believe that he said the Kirkland was in group 3 along with most other full synthetic oils in that price range
I've been doing 10,000 mile changes for about 20 years, driving around 35,000 miles a year on my main work vehicle. Mix of highway and city. I currently have 310,000 miles on my 2014 3.6l Durango and it's running great. My previous 2006 Mazda was sold with 250k and still running great. I used Mobil1 full synthetic for a long time, then switched to Kirkland a few years ago when it came out. Let oil drain completely every time....and run wix/napa gold filters. Don't even check the oil between changes...probably should start doing that lol
It’s funny when you say I change the oil every 10,000 miles, people freak out they’re still doing 3000 and 5000 miles, lol😅 oil companies love them …….and if you actually read the filters or even on the bottles of oil, they say you can do that, I am with you every 10,000 miles I do the filter about 5000 miles out
Trucks hold a lot more oil. As a item that makes them heavy duty. Cars are not sized to have extra oil( quarts). Since they have bare minimum should change cars more often. Just what I am thinking.
@@johnjohnson9980 My Durango is a 3.6 liter and takes 6 quarts... Mazda just a 2.3 liter and takes 5 quarts. Typical car/suv. I do have a full size truck that takes 7 quarts... but it's also a 5.7 liter with two more cylinders so it makes sense to have a little more oil. But none of my vehicles are heavy duty or have a large oil reserve
@@wohoman2005 Not a bad plan, although I'd cut one open and actually see how much carbon is in there, if it looks clean you could probably stretch that safely too
Until I see a picture of a cam sensor or the underneath of a valve cover I ain't believe in none of it
Interesting but the maintenance light comes on at 5k miles which the manufacturer made it but 10k oil changes is never gonna happen on any of my cars. I personally use Havoline Pro-DS since 2018 which I change at 6 minths regardless of miles. Fuel system cleaner luke BG 44k platinum is key if used once a year. Great video information.
You should check out penzoil platinum vs ultra platinum. These are cheap but extremely high quality oils
Running 10k miles before changing the oil is a bit long in my opinion. In my opinion, full synthetic oil should be changed at about 5k/6 months. Don't forget to check the oil level every 2k miles (depending on whether the car is old or new), check it more often on older cars. I participate in a lifetime oil change package from Mazda on my CX-5. So I feel very secure about this, because I use the car very little, so every 6 months/2k miles I go to Mazda to change the oil. I don't know how long the motor will last??
Will they just do the "free" oil change or do you have to get and pay for other stuff.
The subject of oil filters has been brought up in the comments. Did you use the same brand filter in all your testing and what filter do/did you use? (I know… opening another can of worms…)
Stock Toyota filter in all these tests
I use Kirkland 0w-20 in my 06 Ranger 2.3, 206,000 miles, Napa Gold filter, changed once a year at the end of summer, spends its life short hopping (commute is 1.3 miles each way) or in the hills on dirt roads, no added oil between changes. MIL 2013 Equinox 3.6, 81,000 miles, Kirkland 5w-30, Napa Gold filter, changed when the computer tells me to (between 5,000 and 8,000 miles) and zero issues.
157,000 on my 2013 Altima 2.5. Oil change every 15,000 miles, Ams Sig 0w-20 and Ams oil filter. 20% short hops, 80% 10 miles or more; zero oil added between changes. 19 Santa Fe 2.4, Ams Signature 0w-20 every 15,000; 10% short hops, 90% highway, zero oil added and 55,000 on the clock. Long intervals do not bother me on my long distance vehicles.
The Napa Gold's are junk now.
A 2006 Ranger 2.3 uses 5W20 not 0W20.
@@sameold5050 Correct. Typo on my part.
My understanding is that TBN is an older standard that is not dialed into oil condition as well as the metric called oxidation. Have you considered getting a used oil analysis for another lab that provides that such as Speediagnostix?
Yes, I have terrible experience with Mobil1 long-term full synthetic. And virgin analysis show that it's not very good compared to competitors like Pennzoil and Valvoline or basically any others to be honest because it always comes in last in virgin oil analysis.
@@ronswanson8563virgin oil analysis is just a baseline to judge you used oil analysis! TBN is still a good metric showing an oils resistance to become acidic
@@ronswanson8563 I check with 540Rat for his recommendations and pretty sure he scorched Mobil 1 extended oil and that it was worse than the regular Mobil 1. I personally stay away from extended use.
I have been using Kirkland 5w30 for my 2010 Yaris for years, and recently, got a 2004 GMC Sierra 5.3 which also uses the same 3W30, so it makes sense for me to continue to buying the two bottle box as it makes it easy for me to make my regular oil changes, but also my vehicles are running great! I drive them fairly hard, moslty on the freeway, especially the Toyota, which is our daily driver. Toytota last change at 165k and truck at 202k So I average around 5000 miles with a good filter.
What does that two bottle pack run you? I've been using Supertech which I believe is the same oil. It's about $19 for a 5 quart.
The issue I have with these tests are that the Mobil1 wasn’t the Extended Performance or High Mileage. I don’t even like Mobil1 because Amsoil Signature Series, Valvoline Extend Performance high mileage, and the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum are far better oils with top quality oil filters are superior and I have the blackstone labs results on five vehicles. And Most vehicles are severe service usage. I recommend 5000-7500 max.
High Mileage just has chemicals to soften old seals.
also lower detergency to let the sludge not go into suspension@@mitchhedberg4415
What about the “Base” oil pennzoil PUP oil uses since it’s made from Natural Gas? Is that the “Best”? What base oil does Amsoil use?
I change the oil (PUP) in my ‘19 Power Wagon by the hour meter, not the mileage.
Pennzoil PUP "Full Synthetic" is derived from natural gas from the ground (that is composed of a combination of different gases) is considered a Class III (+) Synthetic. Amsoil "100% Synthetic" Motor Oils are a combination of a Class IV Synthetic derived from a cleaner ethylene gas to form PAOs (PolyAlphaOlefins) and a Class V Synthetic such as Esters (or equivalent), without a drop of petroleum. Amsoil won't reveal the exact formula, since they consider it a proprietary secret. Amsoil produced the first synthetic Motor Oil that was approved by the API in 1972, along with the first synthetic ATF, the first synthetic Gear Oil, the first synthetic Diesel Oil, the first synthetic Racing Oil, the first synthetic Marine Oil (all these fluids being 100% synthetic), etc.
Amsoil will produce more power by reducing friction better than a full synthetic and also will increase fuel economy for every mile you drive. Since I am an independent Amsoil Dealer (my Amsoil ID and Referral Code: 1420935), if I say Amsoil saves me money on gas, you would be obviously skeptical, which is justifiable (since I am a dealer). You can read the various testimonials from verified buyers (Preferred Customers) regarding their own experience with increased MPG by going on the Amsoil website. The next paragraph demonstrates a verified buyer of Amsoil claiming a 9.2% percentage increase in using Amsoil over Pennzoil PUP, which I trust you will find interesting! By the way, all Amsoil Dealers are not employees of Amsoil, Inc., but are considered independent contractors.
I found a “verified customer of Amsoil” ("Mugenizer" from Vancouver, Canada, gender unknown), who wrote a complimentary-email to Amsoil back in April, 2024 claiming not only an Increase in Fuel Economy while using Amsoil Signature Series Motor Oil (after using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Motor Oil), but "Mugenizer" also experienced less ticking sounds coming from "Mugenizer's" engine’s lifters and crankcase, along with a smoother-running engine (resulting from the use of Amsoil), as well! While I have read tons of reviews of verified customers of Amsoil claiming that they experienced an increase in fuel economy with using Amsoil, they either don’t mention their prior brand of motor oil or they mention specific brands of oil (most notably Mobil 1), but not Pennzoil specifically (until 2 months ago). However, I once saw a review from a verified Amsoil customer claiming he received a double-digit fuel economy-increase of at least 10% in his diesel pickup truck with using Amsoil Signature Series Diesel Oil versus Shell Rotella T6 Diesel Oil, which contains the same gas-to-liquid technology as the Shell-owned Pennzoil. I have copied and pasted "Mugenizer's" story in the next paragraph (followed by additional paragraphs that not only convert Canada’s metric system to our measurement system in the USA, but will also reveal "Mugenizer's" percentage of gas mileage improvement, so that we can reasonably calculate how many miles we should expect "Mugenizer's" to save a gallon of gas, along with the surprising amount of gallons of gas (25.23 gallons, to be exact) saved over the course of a typical 5,000 mile Pennzoil oil-change timeframe (where the "net savings" of Amsoil are much more than the initial cheaper price of Pennzoil), which is hereinafter more fully explained, as follows:
From the Amsoil Website Concerning Comments from Verified Customers of Various Amsoil Products:
"5 star rating WOW! UNEXPECTED RESULTS By MUGENIZER, a Verified Buyer from Vancouver on April 11, 2024:
I was using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-20 Full Synthetic for my Honda Pilot 2016 exl with 261K km in it. Obvious crackcase noise & lifter noise. Fuel consumption of 12.9 liters per 100km. Now with using Amsoil Signature Series 0W-20 Full Synthetic...noise in the crankcase & lifters are a lot less. My fuel consumption is now 11.8 liters per 100km. The engine run smoother than it was. I wish i've used Amsoil ever since. Now, i use it in every vehicle i own. I highly recommend this product."
You can skip the following four paragraphs (if you wish), which describes the mathematical equation of converting the metric system to our system in the US. Or you can come back to it later?
Canada utilizes the metric system in terms of kilometers per liter (KPL), which must be converted to miles to gallon (MPG) to make it more understandable for Americans. But before that process can be determined, we have to first reduce the multiple liters in his or her example down to one liter, in the same way we understand MPG is a measurement of miles per a single gallon of gas (not multiple gallons of gas).
You will notice that "Mugenizer" was getting 12.9 liters per 100 kilometers (kms) while using Pennzoil, but "Mugenizer's" fuel consumption dropped to 11.8 liters per 100 kms (a drop of 1.1 liter) when using Amsoil. So in order to reduce 12.9 liters down to 1 liter, we need not only to divide the liters by 12.9, but also correspondingly divide the kilometers by 12.9. In this case, "Mugenizer" was getting 7.75 kms per liter using Pennzoil. "Mugenizer" was getting 11.8 liters per 100 kms using Amsoil, so by dividing 11.8 into both the 11.8 liters and 100 kms (utilizing the same division method as the last equation) brings the net result of 8.47 kms per liter. That is a 9.2% fuel economy improvement with Amsoil! The 9.2% improvement was derived from the following equation: (8.47 - 7.75 = .72; .72 divided by 7.75 = 9.2%).
Converting Kms per Liter to Miles per Gallon requires multiplying the kms by .6213712 to arrive at miles, along with multiplying the liter by 3.785411784 to reach a gallon (and then also multiplying the miles by 3.785411784 as well). Using the aforementioned formula, the Pennzoil MPG calculates to 18.23, whereas the Amsoil MPG is 19.92 (an increased differential of 1.67 MPG in favor of Amsoil and is exactly the same percentage increase in fuel economy as was calculated in the metric system: 9.2%). We need to utilize the Pennzoil MPG of 18.23 in further calculations with the 9.2% gas mileage-improvement to determine the actual gas savings of using Amsoil.
How many miles will "Mugenizer" save a gallon of gasoline while using Amsoil instead of Pennzoil? The Answer: 198.16 miles (calculated as follows: 100% divided by 9.2% = 10.87; 10.87 x 18.23 = 198.16). Want to know the amount of gallons of gas saved by "Mugenizer" by using Amsoil in a typical 5,000 mile Pennzoil oil change schedule? Answer: 25.23 gallons of gas! (5,000 divided by 198.16).
The total financial cost-savings by "Mugenizer" would be $100.92 (25.23 x $4.00 a gallon)! Enough leftover money to purchase 3-4 five-quart jugs of Pennzoil! So the several dollars a quart "Mugenizer" would have initially saved from originally buying Pennzoil (rather than Amsoil), would have been more offset by burning $100 in extra gasoline (than if "Mugenizer" would have originally bought the Amsoil instead). "Mugenizer" is now using Amsoil in all vehicles, ever since trying it in the Honda Pilot (apparently not considering Pennzoil any longer) and furthermore, "Mugenizer" highly recommends Amsoil!
Furthermore, Amsoil Signature Series lasts longer than Pennzoil. The Amsoil is guaranteed to last 15,000 miles or one year (whichever comes first) if your driving conditions falls into the "severe category" (most folks fall into this category) or 25,000 miles or one year (whichever comes first) if you drive in "normal conditions" (as defined in your owner’s manual), whereas Pennzoil warranties their oil if you change it within the OEM specifications for your vehicle. Also, while exploring the Amsoil Website, you can view the Amsoil Warranty, which is the widest warranty offered by an oil company.
Considering you have a 2019 Ram 2500 Power Wagon, its either equipped with the rather high-powered 6.4 liter hemi or the diesel, so I surmise you have the former, where various owners of that vehicle have reported MPG of 10.5 to 12.5. If you get 12 MPG and if you get a similar 9.2% MPG boost from amsoil (like Mugenizer did in the previous example), you would save a $4.00 gallon of gas every 130 miles and over the course of 5,000 miles, you would save $153.84 by saving 38.46 gallons of gas! Does this tempt you in trying the Amsoil Signature Series 100% Synthetic 0W-40 Motor Oil, ATF for your transmission and transfer case and Gear Oil for your differentials?
If you or any consumers wish to buy the Amsoil products as a Preferred Customer (PC), they will get the oil at a 25% discount, plus free shipping when they spend $100 (plus receiving a $5 coupon for every $100 you spend). It only costs $10 for a 6 month PC membership (or $20 a year) and there is no requirement to purchase (as there is with so many companies offering a membership for a preferred customer program, where there is an automatic shipment involved).
For instance, the oil will only cost you $11.89 a quart as a Preferred Customer, a savings of $3.60 a quart from the retail price of $15.49 a quart (not the $20 a quart mentioned by the creator of this video). Amsoil recently released a less expensive 100% Synthetic "OE" 0W-40 oil that will only cost you $7.49 a quart as a Preferred Customer, a savings of $2.50 a quart from the retail price of $9.99 a quart. I would try the Signature Series first.
If you or any viewers are tempted to try Amsoil, I invite you to visit the official website of Amsoil and apply to become my Preferred Customer, by kindly utilizing my Referral Number of 1420935 in the box where they ask “Have a Referral Number? Enter it below:” If you can write down my referral number, before you eventually decide to exit this webpage, it will be appreciated (so that it will be at your fingertips when you get on the official Amsoil website). You can send me (automotivebuff) an email at my gmail address if you have any questions. Thanks!!
There Are Two "Must-See" RUclips Videos entitled "The BEST Prevention For Hemi Lifter Failure! (In My Opinion)," along with "Hemi Tick Prevention Just Got Even Better! #Melling Performance + GIVEAWAY," created by a Well-Spoken Dodge Mechanic on his YT Channel, "Reignited Cycle and Automotive," Describing an Alarming Problem with 2008 & Newer 6.4L & 5.7L Engines that Excessively Idles, Which Causes Premature Lifter and Cam Wear, which can be alleviated with a New Hellcat Oil-Pump designed for the 6.2L Engine. In the Latter Video He Questions Why Replace the Inadequate OEM Oil Pumps on the 5.7 & 6.4 Hemis with a workable $321 Hellcat Oil Pump that Is Currently on Back-Order (that Produces only a 12% Greater Oil Pressure), When a $213 Melling Performance Oil Pump (Available Now at Summit and Jegs) that Produces an Increase of 20% Oil Pressure (to Protect the Cam & Lifters, Even Better than the Hellcat Version)?
Did you notice I wrote two additional Replies to my original Reply to your Post? You may not have seen it on your email, but you can view it by reviewing the Comments on the video.
@@jimn.9990
What a lot of nonsense.
I might use Amsoil if they'd make if easily accessible & sell it on a retail shelf like other oils.
The multi level marketing (pyramid) nonsense makes it so expensive & many people ignore it.
I'll continue to use Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, etc with good quality filters.
Never had an engine fail in more than 35 years of driving.
awesome info! i was alway curious about the lab analysis on kirkland oils
I once asked a trusted source if I should use synthetic in my new daily driver. He said, "Don't bother. Just add one of these to each oil change." Then he plunked down a steel quart can of Bardahl oil supplement. I did that two or three times-didn't do analyses. No problems but I switched to M1 anyway because of convenience. I've also read that the manufacturer of store brand motor oils depends on where you live. In the South, it may very well be Warren. In the NE or MW or West, it may be Mobil or Chevron or any other company capable of refining motor oil.
Thanks for the video! I’m a 5k mi OCI guy with all of our DD cars.
Seems a little OCCD to me.😮
We suggest a fuel system cleaner once a year.
Usually, we suggest the fall to ensure cold weather start reliability.
Recently saw a Project Farm video comparing a number of synthetic oils.
According to the UOA’s , SuperTech did slightly better than the Kirkland version.
Essentially, they are identical.
Just saying this because if you don’t have a Costco membership or don’t want one (like me), you can still get a quality synthetic oil at a great price.
$18.99 for a 5 quart jug .
Supertech and Kirkland are both made by Warren.
I have used Supertech from Walmart in all of my autos which I maintain and all vehicles have run in excess of 250K with no oil related failures.
is the Kirkland base stock composed of petroleum base or natural gas base ? (Amsoil and Pennzoil Ultra Max are Natural gas base stock)
from what I can tell its primarily crude, but it is important to note that oils have usually have more than base group in them. amsoil is usually primarily group 4 pao bases, pennzoil's higher end oils are GTL based which is still technically group 3 but its usually more uniform and pure.
I follow the car's recommended frequency according to when the light comes on. Been running Super Tech and Costco for almost 10k miles per oil change without issues.
Not planning to keep my car for more than 100k miles,but not planning to destroy my engine either. I use the Super Tech full syn and change my oil every 4-5k miles.
Likewise
I agree wholeheartedly that there is no “one size fits all” answer when it comes to oil change interval. I do a lot of short drives during the week (although in the weekends I do longer drives), and therefore I change the oil every 3000 miles. The reason I think I’m not overdoing it is that the color of oil is pretty dark after 3000 miles. Oil is relatively inexpensive but a modern engine is not…
I’ll never do 10k oil changes but thank you for this good info
Completely agree with this. Asking for trouble.
My 2006 BMW 3 series is now 190K. The system OCI is 19,000 miles, but I change 10,000-15,000 miles or 1 year.
So you know the new Volvo 860 semi trucks 2024 and actually the 2022s using 15\40 go 45,000 miles between oil changes
Agree. It's not just the base oil breaking down, it's the additives that keep the oil healthy. Just look at the oil when you drain it. If its black and burnt you waited too long.
@@Rojaktube change every 5k man, dont do that to your poor engine
Ive been using pup on my ram 5.7. Shpuld I give kirkland a try? Why mess with a good thing.
Pennzoil PUP "Full Synthetic" is derived from natural gas from the ground (that is composed of a combination of different gases) is considered a Class III (+) Synthetic. Amsoil "100% Synthetic" Motor Oils are a combination of a Class IV Synthetic derived from a cleaner ethylene gas to form PAOs (PolyAlphaOlefins) and a Class V Synthetic such as Esters (or equivulant), without a drop of petroleum. Amsoil won't reveal the exact formula, since they consider it a proprietary secret. Amsoil produced the first synthetic Motor Oil that was approved by the API in 1972, along with the first synthetic ATF, the first synthetic Gear Oil, the first synthetic Diesel Oil, the first synthetic Racing Oil, the first synthetic Marine Oil (all these fluids being 100% synthetic), etc.
Amsoil will produce more power by reducing friction better than a full synthetic and also will increase fuel economy for every mile you drive. Since I am an independent Amsoil Dealer (my Amsoil ID and Referral Code: 1420935), if I say Amsoil saves me money on gas, you would be obviously skeptical, which is justifiable (since I am a dealer). You can read the various testimonials from verified buyers (Preferred Customers) regarding their own experience with increased MPG by going on the Amsoil website. The next paragraph demonstrates a verified buyer of Amsoil claiming a 9.2% percentage increase in using Amsoil over Pennzoil PUP, which I trust you will find interesting! By the way, all Amsoil Dealers are not employees of Amsoil, Inc., but are considered independent contractors.
I found a “verified customer of Amsoil” ("Mugenizer" from Vancouver, Canada, gender unknown), who wrote a complimentary-email to Amsoil back in April, 2024 claiming not only an Increase in Fuel Economy while using Amsoil Signature Series Motor Oil (after using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Motor Oil), but "Mugenizer" also experienced less ticking sounds coming from "Mugenizer's" engine’s lifters and crankcase, along with a smoother-running engine (resulting from the use of Amsoil), as well! While I have read tons of reviews of verified customers of Amsoil claiming that they experienced an increase in fuel economy with using Amsoil, they either don’t mention their prior brand of motor oil or they mention specific brands of oil (most notably Mobil 1), but not Pennzoil specifically (until 2 months ago). However, I once saw a review from a verified Amsoil customer claiming he received a double-digit fuel economy-increase of at least 10% in his diesel pickup truck with using Amsoil Signature Series Diesel Oil versus Shell Rotella T6 Diesel Oil, which contains the same gas-to-liquid technology as the Shell-owned Pennzoil. I have copied and pasted "Mugenizer's" story in the next paragraph (followed by additional paragraphs that not only convert Canada’s metric system to our measurement system in the USA, but will also reveal "Mugenizer's" percentage of gas mileage improvement, so that we can reasonably calculate how many miles we should expect "Mugenizer's" to save a gallon of gas, along with the surprising amount of gallons of gas (25.23 gallons, to be exact) saved over the course of a typical 5,000 mile Pennzoil oil-change timeframe (where the "net savings" of Amsoil are much more than the initial cheaper price of Pennzoil), which is hereinafter more fully explained, as follows:
From the Amsoil Website Concerning Comments from Verified Customers of Various Amsoil Products:
"5 star rating WOW! UNEXPECTED RESULTSBy MUGENIZER, a Verified Buyer from Vancouver on April 11, 2024:
I was using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-20 Full Synthetic for my Honda Pilot 2016 exl with 261K km in it. Obvious crackcase noise & lifter noise. Fuel consumption of 12.9 liters per 100km. Now with using Amsoil Signature Series 0W-20 Full Synthetic...noise in the crankcase & lifters are a lot less. My fuel consumption is now 11.8 liters per 100km. The engine run smoother than it was. I wish i've used Amsoil ever since. Now, i use it in every vehicle i own. I highly recommend this product."
Canada utilizes the metric system in terms of kilometers per liter (KPL), which must be converted to miles to gallon (MPG) to make it more understandable for Americans. But before that process can be determined, we have to first reduce the multiple liters in his or her example down to one liter, in the same way we understand MPG is a measurement of miles per a single gallon of gas (not multiple gallons of gas).
You will notice that "Mugenizer" was getting 12.9 liters per 100 kilometers (kms) while using Pennzoil, but "Mugenizer's" fuel consumption dropped to 11.8 liters per 100 kms (a drop of 1.1 liter) when using Amsoil. So in order to reduce 12.9 liters down to 1 liter, we need not only to divide the liters by 12.9, but also correspondingly divide the kilometers by 12.9. In this case, "Mugenizer" was getting 7.75 kms per liter using Pennzoil. "Mugenizer" was getting 11.8 liters per 100 kms using Amsoil, so by dividing 11.8 into both the 11.8 liters and 100 kms (utilizing the same division method as the last equation) brings the net result of 8.47 kms per liter. That is a 9.2% fuel economy improvement with Amsoil! The 9.2% improvement was derived from the following equation: (8.47 - 7.75 = .72; .72 divided by 7.75 = 9.2%).
Converting Kms per Liter to Miles per Gallon requires multiplying the kms by .6213712 to arrive at miles, along with multiplying the liter by 3.785411784 to reach a gallon (and then also multiplying the miles by 3.785411784 as well). Using the aforementioned formula, the Pennzoil MPG calculates to 18.23, whereas the Amsoil MPG is 19.92 (an increased differential of 1.67 MPG in favor of Amsoil and is exactly the same percentage increase in fuel economy as was calculated in the metric system: 9.2%). We need to utilize the Pennzoil MPG of 18.23 in further calculations with the 9.2% gas mileage-improvement to determine the actual gas savings of using Amsoil.
How many miles will "Mugenizer" save a gallon of gasoline while using Amsoil instead of Pennzoil? The Answer: 198.16 miles (calculated as follows: 100% divided by 9.2% = 10.87; 10.87 x 18.23 = 198.16).
Want to know the amount of gallons of gas saved by "Mugenizer" by using Amsoil in a typical 5,000 mile Pennzoil oil change schedule? Answer: 25.23 gallons of gas! (5,000 divided by 198.16). The total financial cost-savings by "Mugenizer" would be $100.92 (25.23 x $4.00 a gallon)! Enough leftover money to purchase 3-4 five-quart jugs of Pennzoil! So the several dollars a quart "Mugenizer" would have initially saved from originally buying Pennzoil (rather than Amsoil), would have been more offset by burning $100 in extra gasoline (than if "Mugenizer" would have originally bought the Amsoil instead). "Mugenizer" is now using Amsoil in all vehicles, ever since trying it in the Honda Pilot (apparently not considering Pennzoil any longer) and furthermore, "Mugenizer" highly recommends Amsoil!
Furthermore, Amsoil Signature Series lasts longer than Pennzoil. The Amsoil is guaranteed to last 15,000 miles or one year (whichever comes first) if your driving conditions falls into the "severe category" (most folks fall into this category) or 25,000 miles or one year (whichever comes first) if you drive in "normal conditions" (as defined in your owner’s manual), whereas Pennzoil warranties their oil if you change it within the OEM specifications for your vehicle. Also, while exploring the Amsoil Website, you can view the Amsoil Warranty, which is the widest warranty offered by an oil company.
If you or any consumers wish to buy the Amsoil products as a Preferred Customer (PC), they will get the oil at a 25% discount, plus free shipping when they spend $100 (plus receiving a $5 coupon for every $100 you spend). It only costs $10 for a 6 month PC membership (or $20 a year) and there is no requirement to purchase (as there is with so many companies offering a membership for a preferred customer program, where there is an automatic shipment involved).
For instance, the oil will only cost you $11.89 a quart as a Preferred Customer, a savings of $3.60 a quart from the retail price of $15.49 a quart (not the $20 a quart mentioned by the creator of this video). Amsoil recently released a less expensive 100% Synthetic "OE" 0W-40 oil that will only cost you $7.49 a quart as a Preferred Customer, a savings of $2.50 a quart from the retail price of $9.99 a quart. I would try the Signature Series first.
If you or any viewers are tempted to try Amsoil, I invite you to visit the official website of Amsoil and apply to become my Preferred Customer, by kindly utilizing my Referral Number of 1420935 in the box where they ask “Have a Referral Number? Enter it below:” If you can write down my referral number, before you eventually decide to exit this webpage, it will be appreciated (so that it will be at your fingertips when you get on the official Amsoil website). You can send me (automotivebuff) an email at my gmail address if you have any questions. Thanks!!
There Are Two "Must-See" RUclips Videos entitled "The BEST Prevention For Hemi Lifter Failure! (In My Opinion)," along with "Hemi Tick Prevention Just Got Even Better! #Melling Performance + GIVEAWAY," created by a Well-Spoken Dodge Mechanic on his YT Channel, "Reignited Cycle and Automotive," Describing an Alarming Problem with 2008 & Newer 6.4L & 5.7L Engines that Excessively Idles, Which Causes Premature Lifter and Cam Wear, which can be alleviated with a New Hellcat Oil-Pump designed for the 6.2L Engine. In the Latter Video He Questions Why Replace the Inadequate OEM Oil Pumps on the 5.7 & 6.4 Hemis with a workable $321 Hellcat Oil Pump that Is Currently on Back-Order (that Produces only a 12% Greater Oil Pressure), When a $213 Melling Performance Oil Pump (Available Now at Summit and Jegs) that Produces an Increase of 20% Oil Pressure (to Protect the Cam & Lifters, Even Better than the Hellcat Version)?
Did you notice I wrote two additional Replies to my original Reply to your Post? You may not have seen it on your email, but you can view it by reviewing the Comments on the video.
I’ve always used Motorcraft (semi synthetic) on all my Ford trucks with good results, no oil consumption between changes at 5,000 miles or one year whichever comes first,
Pennzoil on my other SUV’s, I’d say just go with a good quality oil, my cousin for example uses Castrol oils for his vehicles, my father favored Valvoline, we have a family history in construction work traveling hundreds of miles a week to different job locations, we’ve all had cars well over 200,000 - 300,000 miles a few at 450,000 plus miles.
Don"t go 5 K on synthec blend go 3 k
@@marlu6373 Thanks, 5k has always worked well for my vehicles, I don’t use any of the Eco-oils like the 0W-16 or 20, I check oil regularly and top off if needed between oil changes, as far as full synthetic it may only give you an extra 1,000 miles of use compared to conventional or synthetic blend oils!
I’ve always been a mobile one guy but just picked up 2, 5 quart jugs at Costco for 38.99
Wonder how it would hold up in a turbo direct injection motor
Bad
Bad
Using quality synthetic oil I have been comfortable with oil and filter changes at 10,000 kms (6000 miles) when the majority of driving was highway. Less highway driving with more local around town or urban driving max is 6,000 kms (~3,800 miles) is the max change interval, prefer 5,000 kms (3,000 molies). Oil is cheap compared to wearing out or damaging an engine.
Changing your oil every 5k miles or less is the most important thing you can ever do for your engines
i agree 100 percent. i personally do 3K miles
@@cantwealljustgetalong2 even with synthetic oil...???
@@JJPARRA1974 yeah, the price is almost the same, so i figure why not. also i dont believe synthetic oil is that much better than conventional oil. i think its mostly a gimmick
@cantwealljustgetalong2 brother let me tell you that i believed that also years ago. But now a days the synthetic oil is amazing for our cars. I have a motorhome and many cars including a harley. I wouldn't trust regular oil any longer since I switched over. It's detergents and heat lessening properties are amazing.....
Give it a shot sir
@JJPARRA1974 The issue with extended oil change intervals isnt the quality of the oil, it's what gets in the oil such as carbon, moisture, fuel. No oil is good enough to shrug that off.
Interesting. Looks as good as M1 here. I use Walmart Full Synthetic, which I believe is the same oil as the Costco and Amazon oils. All from Warren Industries and quality products. Recent oil change in my V-6 Silverado is noticeably different than the Pennzoil Platinum that was in it. Engine is quieter on acceleration, much quieter once at speed, and normal engine noises are more subdued at idle. I used a Fram Ultra filter and have been doing so, so the only difference is the oil. I do the changes myself. Very impressed. If I had a Costco near me, I'd run that without any concerns.
Thank you for sensible advice on oil change intervals
1995 Lexus SC300, Mobil1-Wix filters, 203,000 no smoke , runs like new.
Nice garage, very organized.
Yeah , that's because he dos little or no work.
he use blue background like the weather forecast
Great content! Hope you will do this on a regular basis to check if oil formulation will change. Now thinking to switch to Kirkland synthetic oil.
Great video, great information, I change once a year, and from now on it's gonna be Kirkland. Thank you
great video! straight to the point with no fluff or cheese. i subscribed to your channel after this video
Thanks for making this, great info!
Thank you for your time on doing all this test. Question for you. Does the bottle for your Kirkland oil say Dexos Gen 3? Or Gen 2? Thank you in advance!
Now to remove the valve cover to see . And maybe a boroscope ? to see what orfices look like , spark plug holes , etc .
Mobil 1 0w20 $50++/10gal. Kirkland $29.99/10gal (on sale right now). Kirkland just as good. Every oil change for my fleet is 23 quarts across 4 cars. Been running Kirkland in my Suburban from 30k to about now 83k. Doesn't burn a drop between 5k changes. Now startup noise. My Acura with 135k miles... Kirkland for about 80k miles. Excellent running engine not oil burning at all.
It is interesting that the 0W16 Mobil/Exxon blends for Toyota has nearly ten times the molybdenum than the 0W16 sold under the Mobil 1 brand.
Because Mobil1 reformulated and their new oil is junk. I wouldn’t put it in my lawn mower because of so many better oils on the market.
Different types if moly i read.
@@Balticblue93junk?....how do you figure?
@@steverugerguy9606 First off, I was a Mobil1 fan boy for half my life. After the new formula came out, my oil analysis for my vehicles were coming back with negative results. I spent hundreds of hours and countless dollars and now I know the three best oils are Valvoline Extended Performance High Mileage, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and Amsoil Signature Series plus the best quality filters. Amsoil EAO, Fram Endurance, Royal Purple Extended life and Purolator Boss.
I gave all the Blackstone labs result on five different vehicles testing these oils and filters. Mobil1 is middle of the row now. Facts are facts. Hell Warren oil from Kirkland and Supertech are on par with Mobil1 Extended Performance. I was really unhappy with the results and felt like it was bs until test after test came back. I mean, it sure beats any Synthetic blend or conventional though. For thr costs of the big three at Amazon and Walmart, you can’t beat them. All SRT vehicles are factory fill Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and I researched till my mind exploded.
@@steverugerguy9606 Junk might be harsh but no comparison to the ones I listed in my other response. It will do a fine job for 4000-5000 miles and an upgraded filters. Once they changed to the filters ending in A, they blew it. So, get a better filter, if you run MB1 EP HM. I run high mileage because of the wear additives and high TBN.
But I do have 15 more oil tests coming in the future to compare.
I run synthetic in everything and ethanol free gas in my small engines..mower, blower, generator etc
Kirkland=Super Tech Full Syn/10k=Amazon Basics Full syn. For all intents and purposes same oils made by Highline Warren, formerly Warren Dist.
Have a 2017 ford transit 250 gas engine with 423,000 miles oil changed every 10,000 with not engine issues
Good testing and info. Thanks for bringing this to us.
I think for these tests, a fuel additive should be used every 2000 miles. But use a lubricant type, and the same one, so the test will not have another variable. Use the recommended concentration.
I agree that 10,000 miles on an oil change is ok for 90 % freeway driving, AND a fairly new engine (less than 100K miles). 5000 for mostly city driving.
Should I wait for my dashboard check engine light on an oil change monitor notification before my oil change?
Should I still change my 2011 Lexus RX 450h's oil, even if my SAE 0W-20 synthetic oil is a clear amber color (not dark), after 3 years of driving 1000 miles only?
Only an oil analysis can reliably tell if the 3 year-old oil with 1,000 miles on it is still useable. Your hybrid battery is not conducive to prolonged sitting without driving, which will severely shorten the hybrid battery's life!
Do they have a high mileage blend?
Would love to see an equivalent oil analysis of the same brands from the older Volvo turbocharged 5cyl engines. Those were known to be very harsh on oils
My 2004 Toyota Matrix still runs like new, using regular motor oil, changed every 3000 miles.
Can we still believe the durability of 0W20 or thinner oils?
Don't forget all the start/stops with almost all new cars with the auto-off/on at the light feature. I hate it, thankfully I only have to just press the button to turn it off. So grateful I don't have to hold it down for 5-10 seconds.
im honestly surprised more people aren't talking about that. my truck has that so I put an auto start eliminator on it.
I hate it too with the added drag on the starter plus all the extra electronics. It's a touchy feely thing that makes some people feel good about themselves.
What filter was used? Did you use the same type each time? some filters can filter better than others because they have higher efficiency. This will make a difference in some of the impurities you see in the oil.
all tests with the OE toyota filter
Like you said, "do an oil analysis if you plan on keeping a car",
.......but also change your oil every 5k if you plan on keeping it also, not 10k.
As a scientist myself the only variable that I found, but a major variable is the sample test dates ! They are approximately two years apart, therefore I hypothesize that the Kirkland oil formulation was improved over that two year span difference, therefore the Kirkland oil results look similar to the mobil 1 oil