Detailers Are Polishing Paint The Wrong Way (Do This Instead)
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- Опубликовано: 14 июл 2023
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I'm not a pro detailer and only work on a couple cars including my own, but I always enjoy your informative videos. Thanks!
Another tip to speed this up you spend a lot of time wiping the residue off. Have a bucket full of water and ONR with a rag soaking and a second wipe off rag. Finish compounding the entire hood, grab the rag from the onr, clean the hood, dry with the second rag and now your crystal clear ready for next step. If your only polishing, this is even better now your ready for panel prep and protection. The onr does such a better job of getting the polish removed and secondly acts another cleaning step to remove dust and compound from all the crevices between panels
Goat
Would the polymers in ONR affect a coating application after ?
@@Detailpops no, that’s why you use a panel prep after. If the panel prep can remove waxes and sealants it can remove the little bit of polymers in onr. Yvan Lacroix uses this technique with his rinseless product too
@@chantzmartin9666 ah dope 👊🏻
Bro intellectual af, gonna try this
Great tips, I think people get too stuck on details they have heard from other people and forget they can also find what works for them. It all comes down to experience. You can watch a ton of RUclips videos, you can read articles, but it all comes down to doing it and getting the result you want. Cheers!
Hii Gil been following you for several years. I am so proud of you, you grinded away and grown your business .I have worked hard my entire life , grinded away over forty years lol. I admire you and your dedication to achieving your goals. I applaud you for your success , and I wish you the best. You are truly an inspiration to me. Many more healthy , prosperous years to you , family and friends !
Thank you for taking the time to help the community sir.
Oye, I am proud to see someone that looks like me progress through this MATRIX! You provide business knowledge and detailing tips for those who are detailing their personal or for a business. AWESOME; keep up the work.
Absolutely awesome technique if you get to polish indoors! I’ll get there one day😂
Loving you work and simple approach to your jobs. Time is money for sure. But you’re still providing an amazing end result. In fact this is exactly how I do cars as well. Divide doors into two for cutting and polishing. Bonnet into 3 for cutting and 2 for polishing. Same for roof Trunk usually in 1or 2
Exactly how i approach certain jobs, i go after major damages first either with wool and compound or wet sanding,only on the damaged area. then i polish the whole car is a similar fashion as in the video. i managed to save 2 hrs while doing a suv and get very good results.. of course harder paint is a different animal too@ 🙂 The Free guide is Awesome ...Thank You so much !!
Detail Groove always coming up with the best content !
I like your method of removing dried compound. That's my rookie problem. Thanks Sir.
as a weekend warrior i work most of the time on 6to 10 year old cars sometimes older. Ive never done those panels in sections except roof and bonnet, because the results as you explain are pretty good so dont bother and keep on working. most of the times i have a car for a few hours so i cant focus on small sections. although the onr bucket as told in a other comment is really fabulous an speeds the proces even more
I've watched tons of videos about polishing and you've done the best I've seen so far while explaining what you're doing.
I agree with the larger area if you have shade and it's not too hot. I've been doing it since I started because it work's, also if you use products that have a longer work time you're not loading up your pad ever couple of minutes. MAD RESPECT FROM EAST LONG BEACH 💯
I really appreciate these efficiency videos… I don’t own a detailing business but I maintain my car and my GF’s car at professional level, and she gets pissed when I take forever on our cars lol
I love 3D one with uro-fiber 50/50 pads with this technique, you can leave the film and go over it again with a refining step .
Something iv been playing with is combining same brand compounds and polishes on my pad for a 1 step. I usually put 4 tiny dots on my pad during my passes. So for example i start with 3 small dots of 3D 520(polish) with 1 dot of 3D 510(compound). If i need more cut then 2 dots of 510 and 2 dots of 520. And tweek as needes
I always do large sections, I just did a fiat 500 and the only panels I did split into 2 sections were the doors and rear hatch I use more compound and it’s harder on pads but it definitely saves time. Also if you plan on applying a coating after, wipe off the compound then use a second towel to go over it with panel prep and move on and once your done you can go right into coating.
We tackle half hood at a time. Watching folks tackle a 12"x12" on a normal polish job- oof. We also never finish the polish on the hood that direction. We always leave the final pass going from the windshield to the front bumper. We never leave it from fender to fender. They way the light hits, it tends to look best.
Sounds like you're leaving holograms all over the place - it shouldn't matter which way the light hits...?
A tip I picked up was to wash your pads when you have time (brush and spray kit) and to use a mist of pad conditioner before and sometimes during your polish. Chemical guys sell some good cleaner and conditioner.
Yes as the other comment said use ONR. I just did I my Camry and after doing a section I just did a quick spray of ONR on the worked section to keep it wet and let ONR encapsulate the product then I finished working the rest of the the panel and do a wipe down when done. Of course I could only do this in a garage out of the sun.
Yo I recommend this guy 3:42 nothing but real truth keep it coming bro
I have been doing larger sections for this reason. Cool surfaces let's you have room. Outside is bad when it's hot
Yup, I had that issue with my Tahoe Limited on Friday.
Washed, clayed, Torx DA15 with v36. Mind I did this outside it was cloudy then the sun came out and it was 70 and max 80 when I was using the compound. 1/3 of the good kept on drying fast and sticking.
I cleaned the pad and did another section and went back with the DA and the compound came off.
2nd time polishing my Tahoe came out good
Yesterday I was working on a 20 year old BMW 7 series with like 5.5 Mil of clear coat and this haze kept happening to me 🤦🏻♂️ took up a lot of my time trying to wipe it off … you just pmo thank you !! 🤯🙏🏼
Very nice. Working in a cooler area is a tip.
Hey Oscar! What pad and polish combo are you using? Any speed recommendations on the ol’ Polisher? Thanks, keep on the keep!
I completely agree that Rufus you’re using. I’m pretty sure it is and it looks like the first pad you were using was a Maguires microfiber with that said what was your charge for that I’m going to be doing a model X all black here in a bit and I’m charging 800 of course that’s including washing the vehicle, claying the vehicle. Then compounding the vehicle followed by the polish and then waxing it.
Thank you for the info.
I am curious about the pads, polish and speed used for this video.
Will definitely try it this way mext time. How much compound/polish are you using on the pads to do such large areas?
Like your vids. I still rotary wool pad and finish with polisher. Both Rupes.
Ive had good luck bringing back dried out compound like that with a spritz of pad conditioner too.
What compound did you use, and finishing polish did u use?
Detailing my own vehicle took 6 hours. My buddy saw it and wanted me to do his vehicle. I'm not spending another 6 hours. This is perfect r for me to try and be a bit more efficient one time
I don't have the luxury to work indoors and i have to work in the shade. So i always have to start in the evening hours and i also have to make sure it's not a windy day... Lol. I will do more of a larger area like your doing because i might run out of daylight.
nice ! did you use uro-fiber pads or wool for cutting stage?
What speeds do you use to spread the polish/compound and then to finish? Thanks in advance
I’ve learned that the very best product for bringing back paint is Finesse-it by 3M. I worked 33 years at a GM assembly plant and that’s what they use for final touch-ups on clear coat. It never leaves the mess that you show here.
What brand is the towel that you’re using to remove the polishing compound ?
If the car is decent and just needs a refresh do you use a Polish/finishing as a one step? Love the channel. Simplifies everything
Great video. Good real world advice
I increased my efficiency by 30% simply using a pad washer (when compounding), this way you always start with a like new-pad, have better cutting and finishing abilities. It also helps to keep the temps and dusting down. It is vital to have the pad washer following you with on the car, or else you will lose a lot of time just with walking around the car. If a car is really trashed, I sometimes prefer to do compounding twice, just on a larger section in the second pass. But if the customer is not picky and I will leave it at one pass for compounding and polishing. I also save some time by using a 6 inch pad / polisher for doing the larger sections. You can cover just a little bit more surface area with that added size. I also don't do pad priming, im just spreading it 3-4 times and picking it up in the first pass with slightly tilting the machine up.
underrated comment. if you aint using a pad washer youre wasting a lot of timer and polish.
Most ust a wheel spur
Where can i get a pad washer send link i just bought my first machine yesterday 😂 im ready to start correcting my paint
Fresh pad installed in 10 seconds….
I have a 2021 Honda Accord Hybrid Touring, how would you clean the engine? I was thinking in getting a steamer and doing it.
The "polish drying" is actually because of the oxidation and clear coat coming off and gumming up the polish and pad. In this case you would usually use more polish ( like a ton ) to let the excess polish carry and lift the clear coat that is rapidly coming off due to such a large area your working with. Think of it like buttering toast, you spread it across once ( one stroke ), where the knife initially hits is where there is a lot of butter, and where it ends there is very less if not any. The specific amount off polish on a pad will only get you a specific amount of area to work with. The more the aggressive correction the smaller working area and vice versa.
Use a waterless wash product in a bucket of water with a soft pad cleaning brush in between every panel so your not gumming up the pad or transferring clear coat/contaminant to another panel...Spin out the pad after cleaning the pad to get excess water off but keep the pad moist. Reapply compound and go to the next panel. A moist pad applies compound without drying it out and your buffer won't skip or bog down as much...Let the buffer do the work and don't apply pressure just guide it. Your pad should control the cut not down pressure ever! It heats the panel and the pad up drying out the compound faster. I use a waffle pad medium cut and a one step compound to get excellent results. I use a rotary and can cut and polish just as fast as a DA buffer with a long throw. Slower speed on the buffer and slower movement with the buffer itself cuts faster because the clear stays hard and cool while fast movement and high buffer speeds heat up the clear coat causing it to roll over instead of cutting off...Less dusting also...More polish is never the answer for getting a better cut...Correcting buffering skills and controlling heat is the way to get a high gloss, no haze, no swirl, finish.
It all depends on what brand of polish you use . Some flash too quick . Also . Not every car has same paint hardness.
@@petedetraglia4776How would you recommend a pad/compound combo for removing water spots that have etched in the clearcoat of a soft paint?
My car is a 2023 Honda so I assume it has soft clearcoat, not many deep scratches, just lots of marring and very bad water spot etchings on the paint and glass.
I am planning to get a 3D One compound, along with some wool or microfiber pads. I currently have a Shinemate 5” and 3” DA polishers, and the cut/polish/finish Foam pads that comes with the kit.
The cutting compound dried up.. Not the polish compound😂
@@LespartaAcid-wash the car first
I did a Rustoleum Turbo paint job on an old Ford Ranger and it actually looks decent all things considered but I would love to Smoot it out a bit for a better Shine. It's not clear coated. What would you recommend?
Do you then top it off with wax after polishing to seal & protect the paint?
looks amazing!
Great tip, Oscar! What compound and cutting pad do you go with normally and how many cutting pads would you need for one vehicle? Thanks
Flex DA for Safe removing swirl and light Scratch.
Makita rotary, For polishing great finish.
3M 1,2, for Flex DA compound
3M 3 for polish and clear and glossy result.
Lastly use AutoGlym wax for great result
How good it's the griots garage polisher?,, You recommend for a beginer detailer?,,, Regards from México!!
What cutting compound brand and polish you recommend?
Great advice man!
I agree you can just use compound and polish ..I don’t agree that shine will last very long after sun affects speacially in Cali sun heat ..because you didn’t sand .for the compound to really stick to the clear coat ..
I use a plastic knife to smooth out the polish while some some prefer to dot it out on the car . Rubbing,polishing and waxing. And we always protect the window plastic/rubber lists.
I guess I was doing that already. going over a quick pass but got the wax to wipe off easy
Hi bro can i ask what light/torch that is that your using
VERRY HONEST MAN
Do you work out at alphaland? What’s your recommended one step polisher right now?
Which pads and polish are you using? Also are you using a DA polisher?
One thing to look out for is the amount of compound your using knowing how much you need and the amount of residue control when doing this, by far the best way to get something done for sure
important to clean the pads when doing larger sections at a time also!
So what speed are you runnin the polisher at?
Hope you answer this
Menzerna 400. Cut then Menzerna 3-1 polish as second step. ?
Not for a detailing business but for car dealer quick cut polish and advertise to sell ?
Hi i am ruel from Philippines i cant download the ultimate guide can you please help me how thank you
Anyone know who makes the orange/purple towel he is using to wipe off the polish? 🤩
What compound and pad did you use?
Love your videos!
Why are there still swirls and scratches though? 5:42
Is it because they're deeper than the compound can cut? This is happening to me after I compound and polish my black car.. It looks great, but under direct light there's tons of scratches ans swirls.. Idk how to fix it.. Should I wet sand it first.. With maybe 3k sand paper, then do compound and polish? Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance!
Awesome job👍
If I buff and the paint is too dry I’ll leave there then throw polish over it to take it up. Is that fine?
Where do you recommend buying the pads? 🙏🏼
Good tips 👍 Good job on video 👍
Very good advice
So do you use cutting compound with the machine ? And then hand polish ? Like. Wax or Polish not sure what you guys call it in America
How do I get vinyl wrap glue off? goo gone and alcohol barely worked.
Great tips!!
Totally agree. People don't realize how thin the clear coat is too. Everyone would like to get their cars 100% scratch (micro or other) free. Sometimes its not possible. 80% is good enough on a older vehicle or boat
Name of compound snd polish please
What polishing are you using ?
What clay mitt do you use (: ?
Do you use orbital or rotari ?
Can you just sand with 800 or 1000 and reclear the hood? Without base coat? Have you ever done that?
It would help if you mention : DA or Rotary? Force rotation or not? What pad for each step? What liquid?
What machine are you using there?
how do you stop wax from turning white in pitted areas like behind wheels or on the nose cone? It looks good then the next day every pit is white. Help
All depends on the quality of the paint all compounds and polishes and polish pads are the same from cheap to dear
And is it a good or bad idea to polish by hand let it sit for 10 minutes then remove ? I’ve been doing it this way for years
I cut then polish by hand and works out fine
Why my finishing or the 3rd product is black is that called polish its a bit tricky can someone help me its black and so like watery not like cutting polish
Great Tips, Mr. Groove
I will be polishing my Black Mazda6 soon, using Carpro Essence, do you usually use an ISO wipe or get straight to Ceramic Coating after?
I have read many people do it either way, what is your opinion?
If you want to put ceramic coating on, you definitely must use iso, otherwise you will leave a thin film of grease and coating won't bound to the lacquer strong as it should.
So first is wax and than polish?
Agreed
What do you think about moist pads? Do they minimize dust? can you clean the pad and continue with the same pad for the car? thanks
yes clean the pad!
Good video Sir
Depends what kind of paint you’re working on
A damp microfiber should work nicely. I usually keep a spray bottle of water handy. Save the compound and electricity. Water is cheaper.
Yes ive done it like that before, many years ago.. There is no rule saying that you have to do 2 by 2 areas, half a hood in one go with my T Rex 1500 watt stone grinder powered 19mm orbit dynabrade random orbit and offset rotary tool can annihilate defects in a few minutes on some paints. 0-7500 rpm motor gives it a huge range of performance. Its a dinosaur by rupes mk3 standards but still very balanced considering its from 2008. it wont bog down in curvy areas like modern random orbitals. Obviously the smaller the area the more intense the cut and gloss will be but if doing an enhancement or a one step correction there is no time for 2 by 2 section polishing, that will kill your profits
As you say, time is money for a professional.
I like your approach, try it and see if you can be more effective by working in a quicker way. If you can with 90% results, do it.
so how to fix these things on the hood after polishing?
I agree 100percent
Rotary start to finish is fastest. If you can avoid leaving tracks
If you're not going for multiple passes and best high % correction why not just use a one step compound/polish?