There's some really important information out there. And this is one of those videos very informative. Get a lot out of it and really enjoy it. Thank you.
very glad to see another upload! would love to see an updated setup tour along with anything new to possibly try like ventana plant science flavuh to keep fertilizer ratios stable longer or rice hulls in place of perlite for silica, lookin forward to more!
This is another Gem doc! Creating metrics to fill a void in grower communication. This will surely catch on , as did the term- "usable ppf & bolting". Thanks for the shout out my friend!
Glad to see new content. Been a regular participant in the growers love giveaways on your website. I was curious if we were going to see more of those.
Loving this new info and i hope it helps people moving forward, to understand the difference in heatfactor especially transitioning from hps to led. Ive come to realise that my choice of led was based on an even par map and lower wattage was indeed a fail. An equally important factor i overlooked was the ability to create tent warmth. Wishing i had of got a 600watt led instead of 480...
Anecdotally, my AC Infinity EVO 8 light generates more heat in a 5X5 than the Mars FC-E8000 powered 5X5 next to it, even with both drivers mounted externally. The EVO 8 tent is harder to cool down and the backside of the lightbar is noticeably warmer to the touch. I have not broken out my laser thermometer, but that would be an interesting "heat-map" to include along with a PAR map as part of your new metrics. Welcome back Doc. We missed you.
I like to run my bar style light (optic slim 320H. Wall to wall cover in my 2x4 tent) at no more than 75% power when running photos. For autos, I can run it at 50% power and just keep the light a bit closer. I can still get 950 PPFD in the center while getting over 750 PPFD in the corners. I do this to keep the temps down. It gets hot here. Now, I'm getting ready to run it at 75% for a photoperiod I bred myself (fastflowering = auto x photo F1). It's great to help warm the room during the cold winter
Tent heat factor. My tent lacked Heat so badly i had to pack away my 480watt led and put the 600hps back in the 4x4. The leaf temps have been terribly low unless i shut off extraction. And then the dehumidifier runs flat out. And then the co2 runs out before the tent warms up 😂 im over it. Yes the light is efficient but it costs 3 times the amount to control the environment. I should have bought a less efficient light so it makes actual heat 😂
great info . since you last made regular vids , most the manufacturers have now moved to the newer EVO diodes , be interested to see your thoughts on them . I have the AC Infinity EVO 8 & im finding it awesome , im using less wattage as the seem more powerful ,saving me a lot on my electricity bill & getting better results , I wonder if everyone else is finding this also ? 😎
Viparspectra xs2500 pro crazy ppfd been using for well over a year now have 2. Using vivosun grow hub makes it a great light more adjustment and sun up sun down setting and much more, im getting those ppfd stats at 50% -60% with 2 in a 4x4 in almost every square of the tent
Oddly, I have already been considering the difference in degrees between inside the tent and outside. This means my "lung room" must be at least that much cooler, depending on the light level.
I’m considering purchasing a new led grow light and look forward to using your site with the new improved information. What are your thoughts on full spectrum led grow lights vs variable/controllable spectrum led grow lights. Manipulating plant growth by controlling the light spectrum at each stage of growth makes total sense to me, but is it unnecessary or a waste for smaller home growers? Maybe a comparison video in the future? Appreciate your hard work and dedication. Thanks
I think you're going to need to explain that one metric only decline slightly when you remove the driver. That really doesn't make that much sense of that little of a change. The only thing that makes sense is that the drivers are getting just that much more efficient and producing less heat.
Drivers are around 90% efficient... 10% of the total energy is heat. LEDs are around 50% efficient in converting electrical energy into light.... 50% is heat. Using the example from the video... Plug - 710 watts from the wall Driver - 640 watts to the LEDs (70 watts (10%) lost to heat) LED Diodes - 320 watts of light output (320 watts (50%) lost to heat) So the percent of watts from the wall that end up as light is 320w of 710w, or 45%. It's the number I use on the most popular lights when I want a general efficiency snapshot of the market... a combined efficiency of driver AND diodes.
Quick question, would you still recomment the VIPARSPECTRA XS1500 Pro? They changed the lamp a bit in the new version after your review i think. Is it still good?
Yes, I believe the new version is still good. They are good for 2x2 spaces, and best when set at the 12" height above canopy. I would recommend a different option for larger spaces. Grower Love
They will work well. They are awesome. I have two that feed my two flowering tents. I use them for veg, and they easily suffice, and one easily compares to a 400 watt metal halide.
I wrote this about my own lighting for someone on line a few days back so I'll post it here... . I wrote this for another poster last week, So I'll leave it here for a comparison..... On Friday... I put the seed in water for 2 days (36 hrs) On Sunday I put it into a folded damp paper town and put that into a zip top freezer bag..... On Monady they were showing tails, so I berried them in the small cup sized pots just under the surface root down, but deep enough, that I don't expose them when I add the water. So about 6 ml under. I set my light at 250 PPDF But under the propagator lid, that would get cut down to about 180 PPFD On Tuesday they came up inside a propagator, so I opened the vents in the lid, And re wetted those little pads I had used for the seeds and put them in with the plants and left them to discard the shell. Wednesday The shell had gone with a little sprout showing. By late evening we had a set of leaves. So I took the lid off the propagator, so without adjusting the light, they were getting 250 PPFD Thursday we had the second set of leaves, so I gave them there first nutes. And left the light at 250 PPFD Friday I moved them closer to the centre of the tent so they were getting 280 PPFD. Which is 24 DLI. (DAILY LIGHT HOURS). If I was doing it on 18 hrs that would be reduced to 18 DLI So, to put that into proportion. The Photoperiod growers, turn there lights up to 800 -900 ppfd in flower for 12 hrs. which is 35 Dli and 39 Dli..You need extra Co2 to go higher. So back to these auto's. I have another set of auto's at 1 month old today. 82F 72% RH VPD or 1.0... Beautiful fully LST's canopy. With bud sites popping up all over and just a day or two into the stretch period. They have been at 550 PPFD for a week. Now that's already 47.5 dli. So you can now see the importance of knowing the total amount of light. So as they were one month old and on the max strength of nutes I'd give them at this stage of late veg. I thought I'd increase the light from the 550 PPFD. So in the late afternoon, I turned it from level 7 upto 8.without measure the stats as I did it from my armchair on the app.. 6 hrs later I go up to do some defoliation and fiddling. And they were looking a bit tired, like they needed watering, but the didn't need it as there was still some in the res at the base. So I know it was the light. No burn or curled under leaves yet, just tied. So I checked the app and OMG it was 750 PPFD. So I have dimmed back to level 6 which is 450 ppfd. Added a couple of percent RH 74. Dropped the temp to 78... so my VPD is down at .80 Kpa. Tomorrow, I'll go back to the Level 7, 550 dli and 72% and 82F. Where I was before, which must have been the sweet spot for now. Roll forward one week and the seedlings are now In the lager pots and getting 400 PPFD and have been topped ready for the LST.... The older larger ones are going into flower and are getting 675 PPFD which is 60DLi. I regularly get 8 oz plants doing this way. and love the process of LSTing my plants and seeing that perfect pegged out snow flake. You Can top any auto If the stem is about 4mm by day 14 to 18. But if it's a taller lankier stem, them bend it over for LST.,,
What was the difference from the light? I'm starting out with a 100watt light in a 4x4 with autos but I was thinking about switching to a 400 0r 300watt I'll also be running 4 autos
Welcome Back… This is the best website. Very outstanding
Good to see you back Doc happy thanks giving to you and your plants 🪴
Just recently came across your channel and glad to see you’re coming back. Love your website
Welcome aboard, grower love!
Glad to see you back. I bought the FC4000 evo after i saw your review and boy it's powerful and i'm happy i bought it.
Yeah, I have been running it! Great light :) Grower Love
Thanks for the shout out. I love these new metrics!
There's some really important information out there. And this is one of those videos very informative. Get a lot out of it and really enjoy it. Thank you.
very glad to see another upload! would love to see an updated setup tour along with anything new to possibly try like ventana plant science flavuh to keep fertilizer ratios stable longer or rice hulls in place of perlite for silica, lookin forward to more!
Hola doctor! Que bueno verte de vuelta! He visto todos tus videos ❤
This is another Gem doc! Creating metrics to fill a void in grower communication. This will surely catch on , as did the term- "usable ppf & bolting". Thanks for the shout out my friend!
LET"S GOOOOOO!!! Welcome back!!!!
Glad to see new content. Been a regular participant in the growers love giveaways on your website. I was curious if we were going to see more of those.
Loving this new info and i hope it helps people moving forward, to understand the difference in heatfactor especially transitioning from hps to led. Ive come to realise that my choice of led was based on an even par map and lower wattage was indeed a fail. An equally important factor i overlooked was the ability to create tent warmth. Wishing i had of got a 600watt led instead of 480...
Welcome back. We missed you.
hey doc! glad to see you around ✌
Fascinating you make some of the best most helpful high quality content out there
I appreciate that! Grower Love
Glad your back another great video
Thanks for watching, I'm happy to be back! Grower Love
hell yea welcome back growmie
Finaly Sir💚
So glad you're back doing well, I always enjoy your great INFO......ty Great video happy holidays to you & grower's 💚🌱🪴
Awesome to see ya back
Love your energy in this video 🙌 excited for your future endeavors 🥳
Appreciate you brother ✌️😎🔥
Anecdotally, my AC Infinity EVO 8 light generates more heat in a 5X5 than the Mars FC-E8000 powered 5X5 next to it, even with both drivers mounted externally. The EVO 8 tent is harder to cool down and the backside of the lightbar is noticeably warmer to the touch. I have not broken out my laser thermometer, but that would be an interesting "heat-map" to include along with a PAR map as part of your new metrics.
Welcome back Doc. We missed you.
Alright the doc is back in the HOUSE!
I like to run my bar style light (optic slim 320H. Wall to wall cover in my 2x4 tent) at no more than 75% power when running photos. For autos, I can run it at 50% power and just keep the light a bit closer. I can still get 950 PPFD in the center while getting over 750 PPFD in the corners. I do this to keep the temps down. It gets hot here. Now, I'm getting ready to run it at 75% for a photoperiod I bred myself (fastflowering = auto x photo F1). It's great to help warm the room during the cold winter
Pioneering the game ❤
Doc, can LED bar light fixtures be reconfigured for long and narrow closets? = =
Don’t forget you can always ask questions like this on the Ask Dr. Coco Show!
Awesome video. Thank you
Woohoo!
Nice!
Tent heat factor. My tent lacked Heat so badly i had to pack away my 480watt led and put the 600hps back in the 4x4. The leaf temps have been terribly low unless i shut off extraction. And then the dehumidifier runs flat out. And then the co2 runs out before the tent warms up 😂 im over it. Yes the light is efficient but it costs 3 times the amount to control the environment. I should have bought a less efficient light so it makes actual heat 😂
The facial hair looks great 👍
great info . since you last made regular vids , most the manufacturers have now moved to the newer EVO diodes , be interested to see your thoughts on them . I have the AC Infinity EVO 8 & im finding it awesome , im using less wattage as the seem more powerful ,saving me a lot on my electricity bill & getting better results , I wonder if everyone else is finding this also ? 😎
Im finding 480watts ( heat wise) isn't near enough heat for a 4x4 if that helps
Viparspectra xs2500 pro crazy ppfd been using for well over a year now have 2. Using vivosun grow hub makes it a great light more adjustment and sun up sun down setting and much more, im getting those ppfd stats at 50% -60% with 2 in a 4x4 in almost every square of the tent
Oddly, I have already been considering the difference in degrees between inside the tent and outside. This means my "lung room" must be at least that much cooler, depending on the light level.
Lets go
I’m considering purchasing a new led grow light and look forward to using your site with the new improved information. What are your thoughts on full spectrum led grow lights vs variable/controllable spectrum led grow lights. Manipulating plant growth by controlling the light spectrum at each stage of growth makes total sense to me, but is it unnecessary or a waste for smaller home growers? Maybe a comparison video in the future? Appreciate your hard work and dedication. Thanks
I think you're going to need to explain that one metric only decline slightly when you remove the driver. That really doesn't make that much sense of that little of a change. The only thing that makes sense is that the drivers are getting just that much more efficient and producing less heat.
Drivers are around 90% efficient... 10% of the total energy is heat.
LEDs are around 50% efficient in converting electrical energy into light.... 50% is heat.
Using the example from the video...
Plug - 710 watts from the wall
Driver - 640 watts to the LEDs (70 watts (10%) lost to heat)
LED Diodes - 320 watts of light output (320 watts (50%) lost to heat)
So the percent of watts from the wall that end up as light is 320w of 710w, or 45%. It's the number I use on the most popular lights when I want a general efficiency snapshot of the market... a combined efficiency of driver AND diodes.
@@brianhershey563 I’m not the sharpest tool in the shed, but that doesn’t sound very efficient.
Wondering if you could do a review on the new fc 3000 evo
Quick question, would you still recomment the VIPARSPECTRA XS1500 Pro? They changed the lamp a bit in the new version after your review i think. Is it still good?
Yes, I believe the new version is still good. They are good for 2x2 spaces, and best when set at the 12" height above canopy. I would recommend a different option for larger spaces. Grower Love
@@DrMJCoco Thanks!! Grower love back from Germany. My Plan is to hang two side by side in a 2x4. Good or bad idea?
They will work well. They are awesome. I have two that feed my two flowering tents. I use them for veg, and they easily suffice, and one easily compares to a 400 watt metal halide.
Hello there 👋
Glad to be back! Grower Love!
@DrMJCoco glad to have you back Dr 💚 💛
It’s been awhile hope all is well
Thanks for the new content brothaman!
✌️😎🔥🔥🔥
Test a sanlight light
What's up dahc?
I wrote this about my own lighting for someone on line a few days back so I'll post it here...
. I wrote this for another poster last week, So I'll leave it here for a comparison..... On Friday... I put the seed in water for 2 days (36 hrs) On Sunday I put it into a folded damp paper town and put that into a zip top freezer bag.....
On Monady they were showing tails, so I berried them in the small cup sized pots just under the surface root down, but deep enough, that I don't expose them when I add the water. So about 6 ml under. I set my light at 250 PPDF But under the propagator lid, that would get cut down to about 180 PPFD
On Tuesday they came up inside a propagator, so I opened the vents in the lid, And re wetted those little pads I had used for the seeds and put them in with the plants and left them to discard the shell.
Wednesday The shell had gone with a little sprout showing. By late evening we had a set of leaves.
So I took the lid off the propagator, so without adjusting the light, they were getting 250 PPFD
Thursday we had the second set of leaves, so I gave them there first nutes. And left the light at 250 PPFD
Friday I moved them closer to the centre of the tent so they were getting 280 PPFD. Which is 24 DLI. (DAILY LIGHT HOURS). If I was doing it on 18 hrs that would be reduced to 18 DLI So, to put that into proportion. The Photoperiod growers, turn there lights up to 800 -900 ppfd in flower for 12 hrs. which is 35 Dli and 39 Dli..You need extra Co2 to go higher.
So back to these auto's. I have another set of auto's at 1 month old today. 82F 72% RH VPD or 1.0... Beautiful fully LST's canopy. With bud sites popping up all over and just a day or two into the stretch period. They have been at 550 PPFD for a week. Now that's already 47.5 dli. So you can now see the importance of knowing the total amount of light. So as they were one month old and on the max strength of nutes I'd give them at this stage of late veg. I thought I'd increase the light from the 550 PPFD. So in the late afternoon, I turned it from level 7 upto 8.without measure the stats as I did it from my armchair on the app.. 6 hrs later I go up to do some defoliation and fiddling. And they were looking a bit tired, like they needed watering, but the didn't need it as there was still some in the res at the base. So I know it was the light. No burn or curled under leaves yet, just tied. So I checked the app and OMG it was 750 PPFD. So I have dimmed back to level 6 which is 450 ppfd. Added a couple of percent RH 74. Dropped the temp to 78... so my VPD is down at .80 Kpa. Tomorrow, I'll go back to the Level 7, 550 dli and 72% and 82F. Where I was before, which must have been the sweet spot for now.
Roll forward one week and the seedlings are now In the lager pots and getting 400 PPFD and have been topped ready for the LST.... The older larger ones are going into flower and are getting 675 PPFD which is 60DLi. I regularly get 8 oz plants doing this way. and love the process of LSTing my plants and seeing that perfect pegged out snow flake. You Can top any auto If the stem is about 4mm by day 14 to 18. But if it's a taller lankier stem, them bend it over for LST.,,
What was the difference from the light? I'm starting out with a 100watt light in a 4x4 with autos but I was thinking about switching to a 400 0r 300watt I'll also be running 4 autos
What you rate fox farm coco loco