I just did this to mine 2013 174,000 MI and instantly noticed a difference more power it doesn't stutter when I take off thanks for the video great info you explained it very well
Just did this to my 2013 f150. Had severe stuttering of the motor. Didn’t work at first. It needs time to drain completely not only from the inter cooler but from the motor as well. You’ll notice improvements right away but take it easy around town before stepping on the gas hard. Also recommend replacing both air flow sensors. One on top of the intake manifold and the other one right before the throttle body. After I did all of this my truck runs like new again, I guess all the oil passing through the sensors over time broke them. Oh and while changing the filters take the negative off the battery or else that wrench symbol comes on and the truck runs lump.
@@mxrodriguez22 oh yeah. I actually went on a trip and left it sitting there over the weekend. After that motor wasn’t getting choked by that oil any more
Watched several videos and read several forums on this problem. Checked all plugs and coil packs, all plugs on passenger side had a gap of approx. 40! plugs a little worn, regapped all to 31 (will change all soon). Drilled hole in intercooler as seen, immediately had about 1/8 cup of oil drain out. Went out and got up to 50mph then stomped on it as passing. NO SHUDDER OR STALL OR ENGINE LIGHT! Did this twice. 2013 3.5L 75,500 miles. Hope this does the trick.
@@jeffcoxen1386 What is "oil catch". I'm not familiar with that is that a DIY type job? Just brought a used 2015 3.5, and I'm having this sputter issue as well.
THUMBS UP for you! ... I Have a 2014 ecoboost 3.5ltr, and it ran excellent for a couple months with hella torque, like stupid burnout all the time when your not trying to. But here in Northern California (not the hippie northern, but far "red" Northern mountains part lol) the weather can rain one day and be 85 (f) the next so very humid as we roll into the summer time. I suddenly had a lack of torque and loss of power. What gives - took off the hose to the intake manifold and noticed (to my suprise) when I put my hand inside the hose that it felt - wet and oily!?? Like you and many others figured out (probably never had a turbo gas engine before) these damn inter-coolers are OVER ENGINEERED and work TOO good. So what Ive been able to research is that if there is a greater than 15 degree temperature difference condensation forms and vala - our problem arises. I'm going to put my weep hole in tomorrow - granted its getting into the 100's+ we average 108 degrees in the summer here. All that oil and water inside the inter-cooler wont self correct eventually? At least not the oil inside right? I bought mine 3 months ago with 39k miles and only put 2k on it in the last few months. Im loving this truck more than life I love it so much. I had a 2001 (still have it) 4.6ltr V8 and the power and torque is freaking night-&-day difference. Going to haul a 7,000lb trailer with a full load of puppies and wood in the truck this July to Oregon for huge camping trip - I hope it outperforms the 2001 cos my family is all watching this truck (they love it) need to make a good impression xD.
The problem is that when the turbo compresses saturated air and the the intercooler cools the compressed air, moisture condenses and gets sucked into the engine causing the miss. Blowby may contribute to the problem but it isn't the main cause.
I've had the same problem for about two years on a 2014 with 106,000 KM. Iv'e just been babying it but maybe its time to drill a hole. Wait until your brake fluid reservoir empties without warning. Fun times.
Literally JUST happened to me for the second time. I used a syringe and sucked all of my fluid out of the booster, changed out my master again and good to go. I think they put a re-manned master the first time, but I went and got a FOMOCO so I’m hoping it won’t happen again lol
On the dead battery: f150! Draws a lot current bcz whole bunch lights are on when open the door or press any remote button. Just change/switch to LED bulbs, you won’t have dead battery again.
My 2016 had a Motorcraft 610 cranking amps battery from the factory, so I just put a new Motorcraft 750 crank amp battery in, so I should be good again for a few years! I'd say to fully charge the battery after you get it home, as mine was fine for starting the truck, but when I put my battery charger on at home, it only showed it at 75%...but after a few hours on the charger, it was back up to 100%!
Small hole in the right place should be pretty safe. Another solution is to undo the hose that sits at the bottom of the intercooler and use a shop rag to wipe out the excess oil. It would have to be done again in the future but solves the problem temporarily. The ideal solution is to install a catch can.
Is this shuttering just feel like the engine shakes every now and then? Mine has 170k and when I got it it kinda shook more before catch can and oil change. But I still feel it a tiny bit
@@e-doc4787 Not unless you're swimming with your truck where it can suck in water or something along those lines, and it's positive pressures, so it should be pushing the water OUT anyways....
You should be able to do this with a 1/4 or 1/8npt 12v or mechanical valve. They are on all the newer semi’s after the air drier on the brake tanks. There primary purpose is the same as what would be used on this intercooler. You would just need to drill and tap the weep hole and make sure there is enough meat to thread. Maybe I will try it when I get done with my other projects.
A good catch can will solve this. You can get one for a hundred bucks and a 15 minute install. Drilling the intercooler is just stupid. If you put a screw in it eventually the hole will split and you'll have to put a bigger screw and so on.
I just replaced plugs 6 days ago, and drilled the intercooler today. I have not took it out yet. I am hoping for an improvement. I went up 2.5 mpgs with just doing the plugs.I have just over 67,000 miles on a 2014 f150. I think I went to big on the drill bit. I used a 3/32 bit. So I may have to seal it up. How is your truck doing?
Mines still doing great. No issues whatsoever. I think I’m going to try and plug the weep hole with a screw (as recommended by fordtechmakalu) and drain it each time the oil is changed or as needed. Will see if that has any impact as well, but generally things are going well.
Grant Amor any updates? Looking into doing this for mine, as I’ve gotten 2 cylinder 6 misfires in the past month. It’s currently in the shop now to have the coils replaced again for plug 6. Might have to replace the entire plug this time.
Hey Cam, I would replace the plugs for sure!!!! Mine were trashed and way out of gap. I did get a bunch of oil out of my intercooler as well. But here in the great state of Indiana we still have pretty cold weather so it is not really showing to much improvement. Im hoping that come warmer weather I will see about 19-20 mpg
I will say after replacing the plugs, air filter, intercooler drilled, I still experience a cold start shake. And some shuttering will slowing down and taking off.. Last eco-poof I will ever buy.
You should have sticked to the Honda.... The one good thing Ford have is that keep our shop busy, very busy. 80 % or so of our vehicles that come in are Ford. Being in the state of Washington we have lots of moisture, job security from Ford vehicles that is
I have a 2015 SHO and I get limp mode and a p061b code. Especially when the AC is on. Is this a code you got and will drilling the weep hole help me in my situation. It usually happens on a light throttle in lower rpms. TAI for any help
I changed my spark plugs but didn’t change anything, i tried changing the coils also but nothing, so now yesterday i drilled the hole on my intercooler but it did show a little improvement but it still does the same i press down on the gas and it still makes the sound! Any ideas on what else can i do?
Exactly who in the hell only replaces 2 spark plugs???? Why not do all 6 it takes maybe 30 minutes to do all of them! Stupid is as stupid does they probably charged him $400 to replace 2 and $1200 to replace 6! Thank god I know how to do this myself and don’t rely on shops to work on my vehicles!
Replaced all 6 and the coil packs. Two of them broke in the process but I was able to retrieve all of the pieces; maybe that’s the confusion… Did it myself.
It’s a great truck. Many will go 200k with routine maintenance. Eventually will need major maintenance work like all vehicles as they age. I had no major concerns with mine.
@@davekingdds Glad to see you still like the truck. My 2018 2.7L Ecoboost is driving me crazy with misfires while towing. I am about to get rid of it. But maybe drilling the hole will fix it.
Worked great! I did this yesterday morning, and after 24 hours of dripping dry and driving it some it’s running smooth! Now if I could get someone to fix the timing chain stretch/rattle, or possibly give me a cheap solution?
Just paid 4100 at the dealership for the timing chain and everything else that they put on the bill. Will say the truck runs better than when I bought it a year ago (2013 fx4)
My 2011 Expedition EL is having every one of these problems. It threw a code for spark plug #6, so I replaced it. The problem seemed fixed for a while but every once in a while, it will begin shuddering and throw a misfire. Just like you said, this mainly happens during sudden acceleration from cruising speed. So, my query is 3-fold: How is performance a year later? Is this a viable fix for my vehicle? And what the heck is a catch can?
Did you ever get yours fixed? I have had 2 ecoboost trucks now w/ the same issue, shudder upon sudden acceleration from cruising speed." Seems to be the worst after cruising for an extended time. Curious if you've had any luck diagnosing this. Thanks.
@@Tachtronics I have this EXACT issue, ended up being a few issues compiled into one - the plugs and a single coil pack were all aftermarket and bad, I had to drain the intercooler, my 3 engine sensors were COATED with oil and needed to be cleaned/replaced (especially the top one on the intake), my throttle body gears are made out of plastic and sheered off, giving me the proprietary FORD flashing wrench of death and limp mode, so I disassembled the throttle body gearbox and realized that you could somewhat maintenance the gears yourself, but you should really just replace the damn throttle body assembly. All in all, buy new coils/plugs, drill the weep hole, install a DUAL catch can, inspect your throttle body gear module (the black box with Torx bolts), clean/replace your 3 engine sensors, clean off your MAF sensor as well, and make sure to run your vehicle for 30 minutes on the highway at LEAST once a week to burn off any residual condensation until the accumulated grime works itself out of your engine. Check the throttle body first - as it’ll actually cause a random misfire code (cyl 5 and cyl 6 for me), but it saved me having some mechanically-minced friends who helped me brainstorm and troubleshoot this insane engine. Hope this helps!
Nice job masking another problem...That amount of oil is not normal. I could explain all of this more in detail in person but drilling the intercooler is such a bad idea even though you are getting the results you are after...It's jus not the right way but truck people will continue to do this
Mark, tell us why this is a bad idea. Please. Save me. So where is the oil coming from? I have a 2018 F150 2.7L and it misfired with just 20,000 miles on it.
@@dougroberts6606 Idk but drilling a hole to install a catch can there is a more ideal solution there. As well as a catch can for the top of the engine. Also, I don't know if this is the same problem as your truck is having. This solution is for the 2011 to 14 models.
I mean, it's an inherent design flaw of a direct injection turbocharged engine. How do you suggest someone fix Ford's bad design? This is a workaround, sure, but a decent one. Catch cans also work well for the same reason but then you have to empty them constantly.
I just leave it open. I did for a while put a small screw in it to keep it closed, but decided to leave it open. I noticed no change in my gas mileage or the performance of the truck.
@@lonewolf2364 That's my plan, as I just ordered two catch can's (one for each bank) and I'll drill the hole as well, so I should be good to go hopefully.
Any news yet? How long did it take to see a difference. I just drilled hole in mine and drove across town and shudder is still there. Seems to be less pronounced but that could be my mental 😂
uhohlo1 uhohlo1 mine took about an hour to stop dripping after I drilled the hole. I immediately noticed smoother idling and more power. A couple weeks later it misfired and that’s when I got two of the plugs replaced, but I noticed an immediate improvement after drilling the hole.
Cleaning the sensors solved the idle shudder in my truck and it had immediate impact on power. I bought this truck used with almost a 100k and it's my first eco boost so this is all new to me. I will be drilling a hole as well, after all these videos I've watched and also have new plugs coming soon. These last two items are more to get ahead of the problems as I haven't had any misfires or it falling on it's face while getting on the gas. I really can't wait to see the difference after. So far the mileage has been worse than with the 5.0 I had in the last truck (both are 2012's).
@@jeramywrestler7094 The ecoboost has 2 or 3 intake sensors. The one that kept giving me trouble was the one located on top of the intake manifold, towards the back and its right on top of the engine, easy to get to. I traded the truck earlier this year, so I can't pin point it better for you. There is one 7 or 8mm head screw holding it and one electrical connector. I would just spray it out with some contact clean (it's what I had) or you can buy the MAPP sensor cleaner. I would see an oil sheen on it when I pulled it, because it is right down stream of where the PCV's dumps in. I installed a catch can on the passenger side (the worst offender) and it helped, but if I forgot to empty the catch can I would get a slug of oily water and the truck would throw a code. Pulling and cleaning the sensor would clear it.
@@davekingdds I would think it would cause a Boost leak (lean in vac and rich in boost), But its not noticeable due to the Map sensor right next to the throttle body adjusting fuel trims as usual. Im surprised no underboost CEL comes on, If my assumption is correct this would over work the turbos (not enough to wear them out quickly).
robert feller yes, catch can would solve the issue. This has worked for me. As far as I can tell, i collected about 10cc or two tablespoons of oil when I drained it. That was the blow by that had built up over the course of 65,000 Miles. I use amsoil and change the oil every 25,000 miles and have noticed zero oil level change between oil changes. It’s been several weeks since I drilled the hole. I’ve noticed zero oil stains on the driveway and zero oil stains on the plywood that I keep under the truck in the garage.
Dave King wow...thought I pushed oil changes at 15k. Do you attribute this to amsoil or another filtration system? Oil analysis by chance? How many total miles you at?
Catch can could void warranty. When mine has run out I will for sure put a catch can on. Until then just put a screw/plug into the hole until you want to drain it.
Dave King that's not all the blow by you collected, alot gets back into the intake and cokes onto the back side of the intake valves eventually creating a costly valve job. You won't have oil dripping in the driveway because it gets blown out under boost on the road.
Yes sir. I concur. F.O.R.D. I did change all 6 plugs when I put on the new coil packs. A couple of them were gapped way wrong even though the box said not to adjust the gap, I adjusted most of them.
@@davekingdds is the truck still running? 😂 turbos eat spark plugs. Every 60k miles for ecoboost . Can’t blame them for that not ford specific but lots of probs with these trucks that are
This is the dumbest thing I’ve heard ..... great way to dust and engine and ruin it .... if your intercooler is full of oil you have other problems .....
My son also has the same name has the same truck as yours...he keeps getting misfire codes when he accelerates...dealer told him needed to replace plugs and coil boots...we did them all and don't ya know it it still throwing the miss codes.....I guess we may need to try this..he has about 54,000 miles
If that doesn’t work he might take a look at the timing chain, or the mass airflow sensor. This particular model is notorious for a stretching of the timing chain which will lead to all sorts of rough idling and eventually misfires.
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I just did this to mine 2013 174,000 MI and instantly noticed a difference more power it doesn't stutter when I take off thanks for the video great info you explained it very well
Just did this to my 2013 f150. Had severe stuttering of the motor. Didn’t work at first. It needs time to drain completely not only from the inter cooler but from the motor as well. You’ll notice improvements right away but take it easy around town before stepping on the gas hard. Also recommend replacing both air flow sensors. One on top of the intake manifold and the other one right before the throttle body. After I did all of this my truck runs like new again, I guess all the oil passing through the sensors over time broke them. Oh and while changing the filters take the negative off the battery or else that wrench symbol comes on and the truck runs lump.
Thank you by the way for your video!
Did yours leaked a lot ? Mine did .. now i feel like i have to change my intercooler.. haha 😂 or should I wait to see if it stops leaking that much .
@@mxrodriguez22 oh yeah. I actually went on a trip and left it sitting there over the weekend. After that motor wasn’t getting choked by that oil any more
I would wait before changing the cooler
Watched several videos and read several forums on this problem. Checked all plugs and coil packs, all plugs on passenger side had a gap of approx. 40! plugs a little worn, regapped all to 31 (will change all soon). Drilled hole in intercooler as seen, immediately had about 1/8 cup of oil drain out. Went out and got up to 50mph then stomped on it as passing. NO SHUDDER OR STALL OR ENGINE LIGHT! Did this twice. 2013 3.5L 75,500 miles. Hope this does the trick.
now that it has been a while, did this truly fix the problem for you or were you just lucky on that first try?
@@Tachtronics Yes! Replaced plugs as well. Getting ready to add oil catch cans on both sides of engine too. Truck runs good.
@@jeffcoxen1386 that’s great to hear. Thank you 😊
I have the same truck. Misfire and loss of power
@@jeffcoxen1386 What is "oil catch". I'm not familiar with that is that a DIY type job? Just brought a used 2015 3.5, and I'm having this sputter issue as well.
THUMBS UP for you! ... I Have a 2014 ecoboost 3.5ltr, and it ran excellent for a couple months with hella torque, like stupid burnout all the time when your not trying to. But here in Northern California (not the hippie northern, but far "red" Northern mountains part lol) the weather can rain one day and be 85 (f) the next so very humid as we roll into the summer time. I suddenly had a lack of torque and loss of power. What gives - took off the hose to the intake manifold and noticed (to my suprise) when I put my hand inside the hose that it felt - wet and oily!?? Like you and many others figured out (probably never had a turbo gas engine before) these damn inter-coolers are OVER ENGINEERED and work TOO good. So what Ive been able to research is that if there is a greater than 15 degree temperature difference condensation forms and vala - our problem arises. I'm going to put my weep hole in tomorrow - granted its getting into the 100's+ we average 108 degrees in the summer here. All that oil and water inside the inter-cooler wont self correct eventually? At least not the oil inside right? I bought mine 3 months ago with 39k miles and only put 2k on it in the last few months. Im loving this truck more than life I love it so much. I had a 2001 (still have it) 4.6ltr V8 and the power and torque is freaking night-&-day difference. Going to haul a 7,000lb trailer with a full load of puppies and wood in the truck this July to Oregon for huge camping trip - I hope it outperforms the 2001 cos my family is all watching this truck (they love it) need to make a good impression xD.
The problem is that when the turbo compresses saturated air and the the intercooler cools the compressed air, moisture condenses and gets sucked into the engine causing the miss. Blowby may contribute to the problem but it isn't the main cause.
Thanks I’ll try this!!!
Now I wish you had a cheap fix for the 3.5 eco boost timing chain stretch/rattle!!
How’d it work out?
J Shaw worked great!
Coil pack is faulty
Just got mine replaced $2300
@@jeffreyjeffers156 good thing you did. I never did and blew motor. I’m driving a 2013 6.7 power stroke now.
I've had the same problem for about two years on a 2014 with 106,000 KM. Iv'e just been babying it but maybe its time to drill a hole. Wait until your brake fluid reservoir empties without warning. Fun times.
Just took my 2016 in, as there was a recall for that Hugh! A new brake cylinder was put in 'free' (thanks Ford!) from the recall.
Literally JUST happened to me for the second time. I used a syringe and sucked all of my fluid out of the booster, changed out my master again and good to go. I think they put a re-manned master the first time, but I went and got a FOMOCO so I’m hoping it won’t happen again lol
Has anyone had any adverse consequences to drilling the weeping hole? Has anyone measured if there is any measurable loss of boost from this?
i would more worried about water intrusion wile sitting
If you have to do this make sure you change your spark plugs and gap them to .028 before you put them in.
Did you use Motorcraft plugs? Or do you recommend another brand?
thought you were going to show the video of you actually drilling the hole? I cannot see where you put it?
On the dead battery: f150! Draws a lot current bcz whole bunch lights are on when open the door or press any remote button. Just change/switch to LED bulbs, you won’t have dead battery again.
Thanks for the advice!
My 2016 had a Motorcraft 610 cranking amps battery from the factory, so I just put a new Motorcraft 750 crank amp battery in, so I should be good again for a few years! I'd say to fully charge the battery after you get it home, as mine was fine for starting the truck, but when I put my battery charger on at home, it only showed it at 75%...but after a few hours on the charger, it was back up to 100%!
Does drilling the inter cooler lose boost though
Good informative video , how safe is to drill the hole? Thanks
Small hole in the right place should be pretty safe. Another solution is to undo the hose that sits at the bottom of the intercooler and use a shop rag to wipe out the excess oil. It would have to be done again in the future but solves the problem temporarily. The ideal solution is to install a catch can.
Better off to pull the intercooler and have it hot tanked and cleaned out .
I think ford owners need to start a website to help each others with problems sometimes a whole bunch of brains are better then one brain at ford 😉
Is this shuttering just feel like the engine shakes every now and then? Mine has 170k and when I got it it kinda shook more before catch can and oil change. But I still feel it a tiny bit
i know the video is old, but just did this today, i live in south FL and the truck was shuddering hardcore, i'll update with results
Are there any drawbacks or potential issues that come with drilling the intercooler?
@@e-doc4787 Not unless you're swimming with your truck where it can suck in water or something along those lines, and it's positive pressures, so it should be pushing the water OUT anyways....
Looks like an effective, if not an inelegant, fix. I wonder if there is a better way to resolve this problem?
Probably a catch can would be a better solution.
@@davekingdds - Or both!
You would think that you could install a small valve that would allow moisture, oil, etc., to drain but not allow air pressure to blow past.
I believe the ideal situation is a catch can. No loss of pressure and capture of all the blowby junk.
That is not possible. Air is a fluid with smaller molecules than water and oil.
You should be able to do this with a 1/4 or 1/8npt 12v or mechanical valve. They are on all the newer semi’s after the air drier on the brake tanks. There primary purpose is the same as what would be used on this intercooler. You would just need to drill and tap the weep hole and make sure there is enough meat to thread. Maybe I will try it when I get done with my other projects.
@@brianparks8321 Filter? gravity catch? What do you mean it's not possible? All these things have been done.
A good catch can will solve this. You can get one for a hundred bucks and a 15 minute install. Drilling the intercooler is just stupid. If you put a screw in it eventually the hole will split and you'll have to put a bigger screw and so on.
I totally agree.
I just replaced plugs 6 days ago, and drilled the intercooler today. I have not took it out yet. I am hoping for an improvement. I went up 2.5 mpgs with just doing the plugs.I have just over 67,000 miles on a 2014 f150. I think I went to big on the drill bit. I used a 3/32 bit. So I may have to seal it up. How is your truck doing?
Mines still doing great. No issues whatsoever. I think I’m going to try and plug the weep hole with a screw (as recommended by fordtechmakalu) and drain it each time the oil is changed or as needed. Will see if that has any impact as well, but generally things are going well.
Grant Amor any updates? Looking into doing this for mine, as I’ve gotten 2 cylinder 6 misfires in the past month. It’s currently in the shop now to have the coils replaced again for plug 6. Might have to replace the entire plug this time.
Hey Cam, I would replace the plugs for sure!!!! Mine were trashed and way out of gap. I did get a bunch of oil out of my intercooler as well. But here in the great state of Indiana we still have pretty cold weather so it is not really showing to much improvement. Im hoping that come warmer weather I will see about 19-20 mpg
Great idea! Thank you!
I will say after replacing the plugs, air filter, intercooler drilled, I still experience a cold start shake. And some shuttering will slowing down and taking off.. Last eco-poof I will ever buy.
do you have a drip of gunk where you park it at home? on the driveway?
Yes. Very small droplet sized spot.
You should have sticked to the Honda.... The one good thing Ford have is that keep our shop busy, very busy. 80 % or so of our vehicles that come in are Ford. Being in the state of Washington we have lots of moisture, job security from Ford vehicles that is
Daniel Gomez I should of went with my first option....... Toyota Tundra😖
You might want to tap that hole you drilled and install a plug.
I have a 2015 SHO and I get limp mode and a p061b code. Especially when the AC is on. Is this a code you got and will drilling the weep hole help me in my situation. It usually happens on a light throttle in lower rpms. TAI for any help
I changed my spark plugs but didn’t change anything, i tried changing the coils also but nothing, so now yesterday i drilled the hole on my intercooler but it did show a little improvement but it still does the same i press down on the gas and it still makes the sound! Any ideas on what else can i do?
Clean your map sensor under the engine cover
Why wouldn’t you replace all six spark plugs. Just sayin
Exactly who in the hell only replaces 2 spark plugs???? Why not do all 6 it takes maybe 30 minutes to do all of them! Stupid is as stupid does they probably charged him $400 to replace 2 and $1200 to replace 6! Thank god I know how to do this myself and don’t rely on shops to work on my vehicles!
Replaced all 6 and the coil packs. Two of them broke in the process but I was able to retrieve all of the pieces; maybe that’s the confusion… Did it myself.
Im thinking of buying a 13' ford f150 3.5 ecoboost is it a bad idea ???? I don't want a money pit
It’s a great truck. Many will go 200k with routine maintenance. Eventually will need major maintenance work like all vehicles as they age. I had no major concerns with mine.
@@davekingdds thanks for the advice i just bought a 2013 f150 crew cab xlt with a 3.5 ecoboost well see how it goes so far i really love this truck
@@davekingdds Glad to see you still like the truck. My 2018 2.7L Ecoboost is driving me crazy with misfires while towing. I am about to get rid of it. But maybe drilling the hole will fix it.
Doug Roberts did the hole drilling work for you? I am having the same issue with my 2013 ecoboost but just waiting to know for sure if this works
@@monarchlifestyle6299 I think catch can is the better fix
Worked great! I did this yesterday morning, and after 24 hours of dripping dry and driving it some it’s running smooth!
Now if I could get someone to fix the timing chain stretch/rattle, or possibly give me a cheap solution?
Just paid 4100 at the dealership for the timing chain and everything else that they put on the bill. Will say the truck runs better than when I bought it a year ago (2013 fx4)
My 2011 Expedition EL is having every one of these problems. It threw a code for spark plug #6, so I replaced it. The problem seemed fixed for a while but every once in a while, it will begin shuddering and throw a misfire. Just like you said, this mainly happens during sudden acceleration from cruising speed. So, my query is 3-fold:
How is performance a year later?
Is this a viable fix for my vehicle?
And what the heck is a catch can?
Is it an ecoboost engine?
Did you ever get yours fixed? I have had 2 ecoboost trucks now w/ the same issue, shudder upon sudden acceleration from cruising speed." Seems to be the worst after cruising for an extended time. Curious if you've had any luck diagnosing this.
Thanks.
@@Tachtronics I have this EXACT issue, ended up being a few issues compiled into one - the plugs and a single coil pack were all aftermarket and bad, I had to drain the intercooler, my 3 engine sensors were COATED with oil and needed to be cleaned/replaced (especially the top one on the intake), my throttle body gears are made out of plastic and sheered off, giving me the proprietary FORD flashing wrench of death and limp mode, so I disassembled the throttle body gearbox and realized that you could somewhat maintenance the gears yourself, but you should really just replace the damn throttle body assembly. All in all, buy new coils/plugs, drill the weep hole, install a DUAL catch can, inspect your throttle body gear module (the black box with Torx bolts), clean/replace your 3 engine sensors, clean off your MAF sensor as well, and make sure to run your vehicle for 30 minutes on the highway at LEAST once a week to burn off any residual condensation until the accumulated grime works itself out of your engine.
Check the throttle body first - as it’ll actually cause a random misfire code (cyl 5 and cyl 6 for me), but it saved me having some mechanically-minced friends who helped me brainstorm and troubleshoot this insane engine.
Hope this helps!
Nice job masking another problem...That amount of oil is not normal. I could explain all of this more in detail in person but drilling the intercooler is such a bad idea even though you are getting the results you are after...It's jus not the right way but truck people will continue to do this
Mark, tell us why this is a bad idea. Please. Save me. So where is the oil coming from? I have a 2018 F150 2.7L and it misfired with just 20,000 miles on it.
@@dougroberts6606 Idk but drilling a hole to install a catch can there is a more ideal solution there. As well as a catch can for the top of the engine. Also, I don't know if this is the same problem as your truck is having. This solution is for the 2011 to 14 models.
Mark please explain and suggest appropriate fix!
I mean, it's an inherent design flaw of a direct injection turbocharged engine. How do you suggest someone fix Ford's bad design? This is a workaround, sure, but a decent one. Catch cans also work well for the same reason but then you have to empty them constantly.
this might be a dumb question I'm new to the F150 EcoBoost world but do you patch the hole after you drill it or just leave it open
Brandon 1234 leave open a few days or until you notice it’s done improving then plug it
I just leave it open. I did for a while put a small screw in it to keep it closed, but decided to leave it open. I noticed no change in my gas mileage or the performance of the truck.
Use a catch can.
@@lonewolf2364 That's my plan, as I just ordered two catch can's (one for each bank) and I'll drill the hole as well, so I should be good to go hopefully.
Boost leak??
Lol 😂 y’all can take off the inter cooler and clean it y’all have a better way to clean it 😂
Any news yet? How long did it take to see a difference. I just drilled hole in mine and drove across town and shudder is still there. Seems to be less pronounced but that could be my mental 😂
uhohlo1 uhohlo1 mine took about an hour to stop dripping after I drilled the hole. I immediately noticed smoother idling and more power. A couple weeks later it misfired and that’s when I got two of the plugs replaced, but I noticed an immediate improvement after drilling the hole.
uhohlo1 uhohlo1 you may need to clean the three maf sensors with electronic safe cleaning spray. You’ll be set
Cleaning the sensors solved the idle shudder in my truck and it had immediate impact on power. I bought this truck used with almost a 100k and it's my first eco boost so this is all new to me. I will be drilling a hole as well, after all these videos I've watched and also have new plugs coming soon. These last two items are more to get ahead of the problems as I haven't had any misfires or it falling on it's face while getting on the gas. I really can't wait to see the difference after. So far the mileage has been worse than with the 5.0 I had in the last truck (both are 2012's).
@@bobs64ford352 which sensors ?
@@jeramywrestler7094 The ecoboost has 2 or 3 intake sensors. The one that kept giving me trouble was the one located on top of the intake manifold, towards the back and its right on top of the engine, easy to get to. I traded the truck earlier this year, so I can't pin point it better for you. There is one 7 or 8mm head screw holding it and one electrical connector. I would just spray it out with some contact clean (it's what I had) or you can buy the MAPP sensor cleaner. I would see an oil sheen on it when I pulled it, because it is right down stream of where the PCV's dumps in. I installed a catch can on the passenger side (the worst offender) and it helped, but if I forgot to empty the catch can I would get a slug of oily water and the truck would throw a code. Pulling and cleaning the sensor would clear it.
Drilled mine in the same place on my 2016 F-150, pink thin fluid came out, is this coolant??
Not sure. How much did you get out?
No there isn’t any coolant in the intercooler but if you missed and drilled your radiator this could happen and be coolant!!!
@@advorsky1 dammit
The spark plugs were problem the weep hole dosnt do anything except putting a hole in your truck lol
Thanks
How deep you gotta drill the hole?
The plastic is about 1/16th inch thick in the spot I drilled.
Until she says, Don't- Stop- Don't- Stop- Don't- Stop
does drilling a hole cause a vacuum leak?
Small enough hole should not cause any issues. Those are always positive pressure.
@@davekingdds I would think it would cause a Boost leak (lean in vac and rich in boost), But its not noticeable due to the Map sensor right next to the throttle body adjusting fuel trims as usual. Im surprised no underboost CEL comes on, If my assumption is correct this would over work the turbos (not enough to wear them out quickly).
Who wants a oily mess in their driveway? Wouldn’t a catch can solve this issue?
robert feller yes, catch can would solve the issue. This has worked for me. As far as I can tell, i collected about 10cc or two tablespoons of oil when I drained it. That was the blow by that had built up over the course of 65,000 Miles. I use amsoil and change the oil every 25,000 miles and have noticed zero oil level change between oil changes. It’s been several weeks since I drilled the hole. I’ve noticed zero oil stains on the driveway and zero oil stains on the plywood that I keep under the truck in the garage.
Dave King wow...thought I pushed oil changes at 15k. Do you attribute this to amsoil or another filtration system? Oil analysis by chance? How many total miles you at?
Catch can could void warranty. When mine has run out I will for sure put a catch can on. Until then just put a screw/plug into the hole until you want to drain it.
Dave King that's not all the blow by you collected, alot gets back into the intake and cokes onto the back side of the intake valves eventually creating a costly valve job. You won't have oil dripping in the driveway because it gets blown out under boost on the road.
those are like $450 :( wish Ford put a damn can on the truck.
Your only getting 15 miles to the gallon. Change your air filter.
or clean the MAP sensors. I went from 14.8 to 16.6 after spraying the sensors and disconnecting the battery overnight.
i just did a 2011 with 88k yesterday in the shop. motorcraft plugs and coils and drilled the intercooler. was getting 20.2 MPG on test drive
Steve Slater were you getting misfire readings with check engine light blinking?
@@hornett22 damn that’s good I’m getting 16
FIxed Or Repaired Daily.. Who only changes a couple plugs when there are only 6. LOL.
Yes sir. I concur. F.O.R.D. I did change all 6 plugs when I put on the new coil packs. A couple of them were gapped way wrong even though the box said not to adjust the gap, I adjusted most of them.
@@davekingdds is the truck still running? 😂 turbos eat spark plugs. Every 60k miles for ecoboost . Can’t blame them for that not ford specific but lots of probs with these trucks that are
@@alphawolfadventures1470 I sold it a couple years ago. Great truck though.
1/16"
Catch cans......
This is the dumbest thing I’ve heard ..... great way to dust and engine and ruin it .... if your intercooler is full of oil you have other problems .....
Like what???
My son also has the same name has the same truck as yours...he keeps getting misfire codes when he accelerates...dealer told him needed to replace plugs and coil boots...we did them all and don't ya know it it still throwing the miss codes.....I guess we may need to try this..he has about 54,000 miles
Any success? Similar miles on my expedition. Thanks
You did it ???
I have the same issue, I replaced coils and sparck plugs and the same misfire issue
If that doesn’t work he might take a look at the timing chain, or the mass airflow sensor. This particular model is notorious for a stretching of the timing chain which will lead to all sorts of rough idling and eventually misfires.
I like your name buddy...lol I've had mine my whole life.