Loved it - you got right to the point. No bullshit of 30 mins of minutia and drivel. Only one i found that actually shows exactly where to drill the hole. Kudos to you.
I do air compressors and when you take hot air and cool it down, it will make moisture. We always add a water elliminator/trap/drain after the intercooler/after cooler as there WILL be water.
Mishamoto makes a catch can system to fix this issue. Taps into existing lines on ccv and pcv valves. After install clean intercooler and tubes as well as sensors with electronics cleaner. Problem solved without punching holes in a pressurized system. All that weep hole does is cause boost leaks. Spend the money and fix it right instead of creating more issues with fuel mileage and power loss.
@@vincentbrugetti7254 Intercoolers are usually after the turbo. The turbo heats up air and sends it to the intercooler to bring the air temperature back down closer to ambient before it's drawn into the engine. If the air going in is too hot it can cause spark knock.
@@vincentbrugetti7254 I think if the intercooler was before the turbo, it would not be an INTERcooler. It is supposed to cool the air that the turbo heated up.
@@philipethier9136 your right, I wasn’t sure at the time. But I rolled the dice on making a tiny hole, and so far the issue is gone, and hasn’t returned. It’s been about a year. At idle the leak looks like a nail in tire that u spit on and see bubbles, 🫧. Not sure under load, but don’t notice in the seat any . . 🤷🏻♂️
I have a 2013 F150 Platinum 3.5L eco boost, 80k miles. When driving up hill and getting on the gas just slightly all sorts of misfire and hesitation and loud puffing noises. If you push it too hard it goes into limp mode and throws CEL. I replaced coils and spark plugs. Didn’t fix. We always run 93 octane, top tier fuel. And good full synthetic oil changes before the oil change light comes on. I’ll do some more research on this drill hole, but it makes sense because after 40 minutes of driving the issue goes away, I can floor it and no misfire or hesitation, all good acceleration. So I imagine the condensation and water is drying and evaporating on a 40+ minute drive.
The weep hole is good to get out the trapped oily moisture. If you install a catch can/oil separator, you should prevent any new oily water getting in.
A single catch can on the drivers side will not help resolve this issue. On a boosted engine both sides of the PCV system are dirty sides. With no boost the intake pulls crankcase vapours directly into the intake manifold (manifold under vacuum). Under boost, the PCV valve closes and crankcase vapours enter the drivers side intake tube, goes through the turbo, the intercooler and then into the intake manifold. To prevent this a catch can system needs to capture crankcase vapours on both sides of the PCV system.
To prevent coked valves and intercooler oiling a catch can system that catches crankcase vapours from both sides of the engine is required. One can for when the manifold is under vacuum and one can for when the intake is under pressure (boost). Any single catch can installed on only one side of the PCV system will not be completely effective at reducing oily vapours from entering the intake air system. Only NA engines will benefit from a single catch can on the (vacuum side) of the PCV system. Only NA engines have a clean side and dirty side of the PCV system. On boosted engines both sides are dirty sides.
Thank you for the helpful information! I and i'm sure others who will see this appreciate it. I am one of those who only has one catch can on the passenger side of the engine. I should probably get one for the other side.
From a 2013 F150 tuned Ecoboost owner: I drill a weep hole in my stock intercooler right after I bought my truck with 60k miles. Fixed misfiring indefinitely. Going on 120k now with zero problems since! It is a must on these eco’s (and of course proper synthetic oil)
I’m running 24lbs of boost with a 485HP tune and I still have my stock intercooler and turbos. Weep hole ain’t hurting a thing as long as you do it right
Austin Zeppenfeldt the code was something about the cam position sensor. I don’t remember the code#. It would trip when I started it up, I’d clear the code only to have it come up again a few days later. It eventually popped up more frequently until I got the new timing chain. Man, it ran like brand new after the new timing chain and still running strong.
I just drilled this hole Right after I got a p0016 which usually indicates timing chain issues . I had a few misfire codes before I was diagnosing and did this to help as everyone stated there was more good the bad. Think I’m going to patch the hole with some black silicone or a screw ! Only got a couple spoon fulls of milky oil liquid. Better out then in but maybe it caused a boost leak which threw a timing chain code :/ . Or I just got a timing chain issue
I replace my timing chain at approx 140km because of a tensioner issue at start up. Now at 165km starting to get the chugging/misfire. Very tempted to try this weep hole mod. Seems simple enough. Thanks!
My throttle body went out and I swore it was transmission. Took throttle body apart and the plastic gears were wore down bad. Put aftermarket and worked great for several weeks. Replaced again and smooth as silk as long as engines warmed up. Recommend going with Oem throttle body.
So I noticed you drilled two holes? Has that been a problem, because I drilled my first hole in the same spot and didn’t know if it matters if there are two. Thanks
So I just changed my spark plugs and started to run 91+ in the tank and have had not issue. It's been three weeks since and Big Pearl has been rnunning smoothly in fact I get 2 more miles.
Thanks for this vid.... my dads 170,000mi '14 is acting up. Came across TSB 14-0017 which has led me to this weep hole discussion, which sounds like the issue were having. This is a high desert truck, so maybe took longer to show up than midwest trucks? Gonna try it out! Dealers were clueless here in 2021 as to what i was talking about....
Do u plug it once it seems to be drained I have a catch cam on mine but I used it for 1year with out a catch can so did the previous owner before me I'm just curious how much crap is in my inner cooler
@@carlosescamilla2779 I’ve thought about that exact same question. I just purchased a 2013 with 74,000 miles on it. It will be the first thing I do. I plan on plugging the hole and draining it once a month. I’ll be curious to see if any comes out after 30 days.
Did you notice a change in sound of the vehicle right away? Mine got calmer and ran way nicer right after draining . Even tho I didn’t collect much 3 spoon fulls If that . Got a p0016 code put up after Believe it has something to do with timing chain. I had misfires before this in cylinder 4,5. No idea if that’s connected Maybe I got a boost leak and it caused that code to flip. Used a 1/16 like everyone says . I was hoping the misfire was cheaper then a timing chain haha :(
i had that code 6 months ago. put a new sensor in it and it fixed the problem until now. code came back on. major hesitation, alittle rough idle. not sure what it is.
@@jeremyragan4897 What year is your truck Lotta these trucks are known for cac condensation issues . They use a pcv system to re burn the vapors also , so this can cake on the back of cylinder causing issues . How’s the fuel consumption? Mine actually started burning more fuel Because the timing of the engine it’s self was off . I started getting camshaft position codes shortly after . So I got misfires from the condensation , but also because I was burning to much fuel. Hoping this 5 grand timing fix is all I need ! :/ :( gets scary when it could possible be other things on top .
@@PfeifferFishing 2011 with 218k miles. Fuel mileage is 14-16mpg in town. I’m going to do an oil change Bc it’s about time again anyway and pull the plugs and check them. Just changed them maybe 20k miles ago along with the coils
No holes are necessary, twin catch can system along with cleaning the turbo pipes, intercooler and the three air flow sensors will take care of that, I did it on my 2012 EB 115k miles and now it idles and runs smooth.
You should install blow off valve in the intercooler that solve the problem no drilling a hole because now you are loosing boost. This is like drilling your radiator you will have a antifreeze leak
Dashawn Owens did u also have a misfire when flooring it? I have a 2016 w/ 65k miles that I bought second hand and truck seems to not have much maintenance done to it...
Use a self tapping screw. All the gear heads here making me laugh.... You will lose power and fuel efficiency. It matters and the fix is SO SIMPLE. One screw.
I did this mod to my 2013 didn't get nearly as much out as you did I guess thats a good thing......I also added a UPR catch can a couple weeks later. That catch can is worth every penny IMO....I am amazed at how much it catches no pun intended. Thanks for the vid !
The oil/moisture buildup in the intercooler will only be discharged when the intake system has positive pressure. Assuming that you didn’t drill the hole too large, you should have no issues with leakage while the truck is parked and not running above idle 👍🏻
It's been over a year since you drilled the hole. We know that it worked initially, but is it still working and does it now dripping all over the ground?
Yes it is still helping. The issue I've been having now is related to aftermarket coil packs. I'm gonna be putting a video out soon in regards to that. As for dripping, yes it does drip onto the ground but I've never seen a spot left behind in any parking spots or driveways.
Same thing happened to me. I had 900 km drive to go in the middle of the night and by the end the check engine light came on. Hoping its just plugs. Thanks!
Am I missing something Mitch? You stated that this is the hole everyone is talking about. First I have heard of this hole. Where have you seen it talked about? Is it a TSB?
The TSB is to tell the customer that this is the first time that they have heard of this problem, then that the truck going into limp mode is normal behavior.
My truck stutters some under boosted acceleration. Makes a noise like not getting air and overall runs not great. Then I can run the shit out of it and it will come out of it for a few weeks. Is this my problem? No codes. After I run the shit out of it it runs like a dream.
Why would anyone do this? If you install a quality catch can and use full synthetic oil the blow by in the intake track can all but be eliminated. Also if you have a missing issue a lot of the time it is caused by oil on the 3 map sensors. Use MAF cleaner on them and that will fix the missing issue most of the time.
Prior to this I have had a catch can installed always done synthetic oil changes every 3k miles. I tried cleaning my sensors and the issue still persisted.
@@HitchinMitch I'm wondering if I should drill another hole in search of oil...i was pleased not to find oil but a little baffled at the same time 🤔. Maybe because its a 2016, I drive it hard and not a tropical humid climate? I don't know...just want to keep my valves clean.
What year is the truck and what was it doing? And when you drill dmthe hole is just to free some of that oil trapped there or are you drilling in some part you aren't spupssef to drill?
Truck is a 2013, it was misfiring and causing the truck to go into limp mode. The hole is to help relieve the built up oil in the system. I do have a catch can but it only helps so much.
@@ricardocorsa9077 do you feel the shaking through the steering wheel? Pedals? Or seat? Because if it still has power and no check engine light could be driveline related. I had a weight fall off my driveshaft on my old truck felt like it was gonna fall apart at 60mph. Got a great message though! 😆😆
@@HitchinMitch I feel the shaking on the left and right wheel more on the right when I step on the gas pedal, I watched other videso it could millions things lol, like an unbalanced tire or the slip bump in the drive shaft or the shudder wich I don't understand still what it is. Lol
If it's during acceleration I would lean towards something in the driveline. Whether it's a driveshaft, axle or unbalanced wheel. I would start by taking your wheels to get rebalanced, shouldn't cost you too much or anything.
I couldn't tell you for sure. If the coolant that's in the truck is also pink then there's a possibility. But how it would've made it ways into the intercooler is a different story.
so is it still working? any more misfires? I just got my 4th misfire in 4 months on my 2011 with 93k miles and thinking of doing this. Ford dealer acts like they never heard of the friggin problem and just keeps trying to change the plugs or ignition coils. It would have been great if you wiped it and showed exactly where the hole was but I will figure it out. Did you ever install a catch can?
I've had a catch can on since 40k miles and after drilling the hole the misfire did go away. I did develope a misfire once again but that was related to having aftermarket coil packs. I've been told to only use own coils or high quality.
@@motodrummer I don't want to say it's all that is needed but it definitely will help. If you already had the coils and plugs replaced then drilling the hole would be the next step besides a catch can. It's free
@@andyyarrington8602 I drilled it and replaced all plugs and ignition coils about 5k miles ago and power is back and no misfires no matter how hard I stomp on her.
What about installing a fitting to a catch can with the weep hold on it IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIII INTERCOOLER III \\ \\ Fitting = CatchCan Weephole
if you do this you will have boost leak....catch can is way more effective...also aftermarket intercooler has a drain plug...its called blowby. nasty stuff. turbo things
Yes that should just be blow by, best way to fix it is to install two catch cans in it but the pinhole is just to relieve all the buildup which your now seeing coming out.
Your going to lose boost. You don't drill holes in the inter cooler. I put catch can on mine. I can't believe how much that catches. But if it works for you than party on. When you changed your plugs were they fouled mainly on the passenger side by chance.
I also have a catch can on mine and the things it holds it's amazing. I haven't really noticed any power loss after doing this. The plugs were pretty evenly bad all the way around.
I'm just runnig 2 cheap Amazon catch cans for now. I have one on the passage and driver's side. The both are small ones. Have to empty them every 3000 miles. Mine was pulling oil from the valve cover into the trubo.
It's so minimal that I haven't noticed a change in power at all. But adding a catch can for both sides of the engine will help aswell. I had one on the passenger side even before drilling the hole and didn't fully help.
@@codycantrell1293 I drilled my weep hole too big. I put a small screw into the small hole where I could unscrew it when I wanted to drain it and put it back to hold pressure and prevent the hissing
@Flatus Antiquitous You're right, if there is only a catch can on the drivers side PCV system. On a boosted engine both sides of the PCV system are dirty sides. With no boost the intake pulls crankcase vapours directly into the intake manifold (manifold under vacuum). Under boost, the PCV valve closes and crankcase vapours enter the drivers side intake tube, goes through the turbo, the intercooler and then into the intake manifold. To prevent this a catch can system needs to capture crankcase vapours on both sides of the PCV system.
DO NOT DRILL A HOLE IN YOUR INTERCOOLER, you are a complete moron if you do. A turbo charged engine is a sealed system and you are now creating a boost leak of metered air. Yes there is a map sensor as well but you're still causing a massive boost leak for no reason. Remove the intercooler, clean it and install a good dual catch can. By drilling a hole and making a boost leak you are robbing your truck of power, fuel economy, and putting more strain on the turbos since they have to work harder to achieve and maintain normal boost levels. I know most f150 owners are not familiar with how turbos work.
Loved it - you got right to the point. No bullshit of 30 mins of minutia and drivel. Only one i found that actually shows exactly where to drill the hole. Kudos to you.
Thank you! That's exactly why I uploaded this. 👍
I do air compressors and when you take hot air and cool it down, it will make moisture. We always add a water elliminator/trap/drain after the intercooler/after cooler as there WILL be water.
Mishamoto makes a catch can system to fix this issue. Taps into existing lines on ccv and pcv valves. After install clean intercooler and tubes as well as sensors with electronics cleaner. Problem solved without punching holes in a pressurized system. All that weep hole does is cause boost leaks. Spend the money and fix it right instead of creating more issues with fuel mileage and power loss.
But the hole in the intercooler is before the turbo, ?? So wouldn’t it not affect the turbo ??
@@vincentbrugetti7254 Intercoolers are usually after the turbo. The turbo heats up air and sends it to the intercooler to bring the air temperature back down closer to ambient before it's drawn into the engine. If the air going in is too hot it can cause spark knock.
@@vincentbrugetti7254 I think if the intercooler was before the turbo, it would not be an INTERcooler. It is supposed to cool the air that the turbo heated up.
@@philipethier9136 your right, I wasn’t sure at the time. But I rolled the dice on making a tiny hole, and so far the issue is gone, and hasn’t returned. It’s been about a year. At idle the leak looks like a nail in tire that u spit on and see bubbles, 🫧. Not sure under load, but don’t notice in the seat any . . 🤷🏻♂️
@@vincentbrugetti7254Haha You idiot!!!!!
I have a 2013 F150 Platinum 3.5L eco boost, 80k miles. When driving up hill and getting on the gas just slightly all sorts of misfire and hesitation and loud puffing noises. If you push it too hard it goes into limp mode and throws CEL. I replaced coils and spark plugs. Didn’t fix. We always run 93 octane, top tier fuel. And good full synthetic oil changes before the oil change light comes on. I’ll do some more research on this drill hole, but it makes sense because after 40 minutes of driving the issue goes away, I can floor it and no misfire or hesitation, all good acceleration. So I imagine the condensation and water is drying and evaporating on a 40+ minute drive.
The weep hole is good to get out the trapped oily moisture. If you install a catch can/oil separator, you should prevent any new oily water getting in.
A single catch can on the drivers side will not help resolve this issue. On a boosted engine both sides of the PCV system are dirty sides. With no boost the intake pulls crankcase vapours directly into the intake manifold (manifold under vacuum). Under boost, the PCV valve closes and crankcase vapours enter the drivers side intake tube, goes through the turbo, the intercooler and then into the intake manifold. To prevent this a catch can system needs to capture crankcase vapours on both sides of the PCV system.
So two tubes to one catch can back into the drivers side?
I think your meaning just install two catch cans. One on the passenger and one on the driver side.
To prevent coked valves and intercooler oiling a catch can system that catches crankcase vapours from both sides of the engine is required. One can for when the manifold is under vacuum and one can for when the intake is under pressure (boost). Any single catch can installed on only one side of the PCV system will not be completely effective at reducing oily vapours from entering the intake air system. Only NA engines will benefit from a single catch can on the (vacuum side) of the PCV system. Only NA engines have a clean side and dirty side of the PCV system. On boosted engines both sides are dirty sides.
Thank you for the helpful information! I and i'm sure others who will see this appreciate it. I am one of those who only has one catch can on the passenger side of the engine. I should probably get one for the other side.
Is it still necessary to drill the weep hole if the catch can are added to the truck or thats just a fix before you get the catch cans?
@@whissguzman8740 Making a boost leak, by any means, is not recommended.
You can use a vacuum brake bleeder and put the hose on the hole to speed up drainage.
From a 2013 F150 tuned Ecoboost owner: I drill a weep hole in my stock intercooler right after I bought my truck with 60k miles. Fixed misfiring indefinitely. Going on 120k now with zero problems since! It is a must on these eco’s (and of course proper synthetic oil)
Did you have any issues with turbo boost loss or overheating?? I'm thinking of doing this but I'm a little scared to be honest..
I’m running 24lbs of boost with a 485HP tune and I still have my stock intercooler and turbos. Weep hole ain’t hurting a thing as long as you do it right
@@afuzzykkitten bruh 24lbs of boost? What tune did you go with? I have a bully dog gt tuner and I get 15lbs of boost
How big of a hole did you drill?
I live in Corpus Christi where we have major humidity
@@alexvallejo1553 I drilled a 1/16 hole, started it up and a bunch of brown liquid came spewing out
My 2011 blew two motors before Ford drilled it out, he moisture hydro locked the #2 piston both times and punched out the bottom of the block.
I did all this too, all kind of crap came out but, in the end, it was all fixed with a new timing chain. ~$2K. Drove like new again after that.
Hopefully I don't need to get a timing chain for a awhile.
Were u getting misfire codes? Also was it only happening when getting on it?
Austin Zeppenfeldt the code was something about the cam position sensor. I don’t remember the code#. It would trip when I started it up, I’d clear the code only to have it come up again a few days later. It eventually popped up more frequently until I got the new timing chain. Man, it ran like brand new after the new timing chain and still running strong.
I just drilled this hole
Right after I got a p0016 which usually indicates timing chain issues .
I had a few misfire codes before
I was diagnosing and did this to help as everyone stated there was more good the bad.
Think I’m going to patch the hole with some black silicone or a screw !
Only got a couple spoon fulls of milky oil liquid.
Better out then in but maybe it caused a boost leak which threw a timing chain code :/ .
Or I just got a timing chain issue
I replace my timing chain at approx 140km because of a tensioner issue at start up. Now at 165km starting to get the chugging/misfire. Very tempted to try this weep hole mod. Seems simple enough. Thanks!
At 1:39- “that would stink”...then fart noise
😂
the throttle bodies on these ecoboost are a common problem also. hesitation and a rough idle
My throttle body went out and I swore it was transmission. Took throttle body apart and the plastic gears were wore down bad. Put aftermarket and worked great for several weeks. Replaced again and smooth as silk as long as engines warmed up. Recommend going with Oem throttle body.
Do throttle bodies go out because the internals or what’s the cause of them going bad?
So I noticed you drilled two holes? Has that been a problem, because I drilled my first hole in the same spot and didn’t know if it matters if there are two. Thanks
Has anyone had any adverse consequences to drilling the weeping hole? Has anyone measured if there is any measurable loss of boost from this?
I have over 125k miles since I drilled mine and haven't had issue yet
@@buzza2077hey brother any updates?
So I just changed my spark plugs and started to run 91+ in the tank and have had not issue. It's been three weeks since and Big Pearl has been rnunning smoothly in fact I get 2 more miles.
Thanks for this vid.... my dads 170,000mi '14 is acting up. Came across TSB 14-0017 which has led me to this weep hole discussion, which sounds like the issue were having. This is a high desert truck, so maybe took longer to show up than midwest trucks? Gonna try it out! Dealers were clueless here in 2021 as to what i was talking about....
I think they lie when they say ; “”we haven’t seen this issue”” when it’s a common issue with such make/model 😂 fibbers
Do u plug it once it seems to be drained I have a catch cam on mine but I used it for 1year with out a catch can so did the previous owner before me I'm just curious how much crap is in my inner cooler
@@carlosescamilla2779
I’ve thought about that exact same question. I just purchased a 2013 with 74,000 miles on it. It will be the first thing I do. I plan on plugging the hole and draining it once a month. I’ll be curious to see if any comes out after 30 days.
Stupendous video my man. Thanks a ton.
Did you notice a change in sound of the vehicle right away?
Mine got calmer and ran way nicer right after draining . Even tho I didn’t collect much 3 spoon fulls If that .
Got a p0016 code put up after
Believe it has something to do with timing chain. I had misfires before this in cylinder 4,5.
No idea if that’s connected
Maybe I got a boost leak and it caused that code to flip. Used a 1/16 like everyone says .
I was hoping the misfire was cheaper then a timing chain haha :(
i had that code 6 months ago. put a new sensor in it and it fixed the problem until now. code came back on. major hesitation, alittle rough idle. not sure what it is.
@@jeremyragan4897
What year is your truck
Lotta these trucks are known for cac condensation issues .
They use a pcv system to re burn the vapors also , so this can cake on the back of cylinder causing issues .
How’s the fuel consumption?
Mine actually started burning more fuel
Because the timing of the engine it’s self was off . I started getting camshaft position codes shortly after .
So I got misfires from the condensation , but also because I was burning to much fuel.
Hoping this 5 grand timing fix is all I need ! :/
:( gets scary when it could possible be other things on top .
@@PfeifferFishing 2011 with 218k miles. Fuel mileage is 14-16mpg in town. I’m going to do an oil change Bc it’s about time again anyway and pull the plugs and check them. Just changed them maybe 20k miles ago along with the coils
How does this correct a misfire ?
Hopefully thats the fix. Another informative video
So far it seems to be working, we'll see what happens next time I'm in TN.
I think my eco runs better w/o the air-dam installed, but thats just me
Don't waste time taking the air dam off just pull back on it and you can drill hole no problem that's what I did
No holes are necessary, twin catch can system along with cleaning the turbo pipes, intercooler and the three air flow sensors will take care of that, I did it on my 2012 EB 115k miles and now it idles and runs smooth.
You should install blow off valve in the intercooler that solve the problem no drilling a hole because now you are loosing boost. This is like drilling your radiator you will have a antifreeze leak
Eduardo Olvera what do you mean how
losing*, and no
Thanks man drilled mine today
Dashawn Owens did u also have a misfire when flooring it? I have a 2016 w/ 65k miles that I bought second hand and truck seems to not have much maintenance done to it...
Why don’t people just take off really quick? It doesn’t take much to get these intercoolers off 🤷♂️
Nice vid! Thanks. If you bought an aluminum inter cooler would you still need the weeping hole?
Honestly you’d just get the duo catch can because avoids all that stuff going back down to the intercooler
When's you made the hole, you already has an issue with your truck or you did it before got any issue?
Unfortunately drilling hole in the intercooler will cause air leak in your boost, also usually causing bad fuel consumption, but it's a fix.
No...it won't. The hole is small enough the difference is negligible.
Besides, can’t one just close the hole with a plastic screw or something?? 🤷🏻♂️
Use a self tapping screw. All the gear heads here making me laugh.... You will lose power and fuel efficiency. It matters and the fix is SO SIMPLE. One screw.
Damn air dam
😂😂😂😂
I did this mod to my 2013 didn't get nearly as much out as you did I guess thats a good thing......I also added a UPR catch can a couple weeks later. That catch can is worth every penny IMO....I am amazed at how much it catches no pun intended. Thanks for the vid !
I'd say it's good thing. I have the jlt 3.0 catch can but thinking about upgrading it in the future.
@@HitchinMitch what is the catch can is there a link i could go to for this?
@@joegonzales4233 This shows the entire install as well. ruclips.net/video/v6h_FOzFMcs/видео.html
What size drill bid is recomended?
So what about boost leak or hissing noise do you experience low power from less boost just curious
Is it bad that it drips oil? Does doing this harm anything? Thanks
May be a stupid question, but other than the initial discharge, do end up with an oil spot on your driveway long term?
I couldn't really say, I park on a gravel spot at home.
The oil/moisture buildup in the intercooler will only be discharged when the intake system has positive pressure. Assuming that you didn’t drill the hole too large, you should have no issues with leakage while the truck is parked and not running above idle 👍🏻
Lower valance or air deflector
It's been over a year since you drilled the hole. We know that it worked initially, but is it still working and does it now dripping all over the ground?
Yes it is still helping. The issue I've been having now is related to aftermarket coil packs. I'm gonna be putting a video out soon in regards to that. As for dripping, yes it does drip onto the ground but I've never seen a spot left behind in any parking spots or driveways.
Eurocat Games that’s what am afraid to drill that hole is that water nasty and staining you driveway or not?
I just had this problem on the way back from work. Im gonna try this i hope it works. Did your check engine light come on?
My check engine light was flashing when it started to misfire. But it wouldn't stay on.
Same thing happened to me. I had 900 km drive to go in the middle of the night and by the end the check engine light came on. Hoping its just plugs. Thanks!
@Dirty Harry i did end up having to do that as well. Thanks for the advice Harry. Really appreciate it!
@Dirty Harry what sensors are they that you are referring to?
Thanks for the vid! So are you driving around and dripping that carbon buildup liquid all over the place or is it not that much??
Just got my 2011 EcoBoost should I do this off the bat? Why do you do this
Am I missing something Mitch? You stated that this is the hole everyone is talking about. First I have heard of this hole. Where have you seen it talked about? Is it a TSB?
I've seen it mentioned in a couple forums, videos and f150 nation on Facebook. Don't think there's a tsb.
The TSB is to tell the customer that this is the first time that they have heard of this problem, then that the truck going into limp mode is normal behavior.
Question: will this cause loss of oil overtime? Mine still leaks nasty stuff months later
Yes but these engines are known to burn oil just because of the turbo and cooling system design.
My truck stutters some under boosted acceleration. Makes a noise like not getting air and overall runs not great. Then I can run the shit out of it and it will come out of it for a few weeks. Is this my problem? No codes. After I run the shit out of it it runs like a dream.
It will not fix it and you don't have to close it. Replace all your Map sensors and call it a day.
Why would anyone do this? If you install a quality catch can and use full synthetic oil the blow by in the intake track can all but be eliminated. Also if you have a missing issue a lot of the time it is caused by oil on the 3 map sensors. Use MAF cleaner on them and that will fix the missing issue most of the time.
Prior to this I have had a catch can installed always done synthetic oil changes every 3k miles. I tried cleaning my sensors and the issue still persisted.
Did you clean the intake valves? Sounds like they had a lot of carbon build up. Did you have a good 3 valve catch can?
I just drill a hole in the same spot but it seems that is oil instead of dirty water !
ALACRAN JIMENEZ carbon build up mixed with water
Why drivers side? I drilled passenger side and it was as dry as a bone. 2016 3.5
I've just read on a couple forums that people were drilling the driver side.
@@HitchinMitch I'm wondering if I should drill another hole in search of oil...i was pleased not to find oil but a little baffled at the same time 🤔. Maybe because its a 2016, I drive it hard and not a tropical humid climate? I don't know...just want to keep my valves clean.
I'd say that is totally up to you. It's a small enough hole to patch afterwards.
Drivers side because the air flows to that side before going up into intake
@@kyleblackburn6376 Thanks guys I'll try that. Any opinions on this? It's like a vent to atmosphere reliving blowby pressure.
What year is the truck and what was it doing? And when you drill dmthe hole is just to free some of that oil trapped there or are you drilling in some part you aren't spupssef to drill?
Truck is a 2013, it was misfiring and causing the truck to go into limp mode. The hole is to help relieve the built up oil in the system. I do have a catch can but it only helps so much.
@@HitchinMitch my truck shakes when driving so I wonder if is soemthiwn else, thanks for the information .
@@ricardocorsa9077 do you feel the shaking through the steering wheel? Pedals? Or seat? Because if it still has power and no check engine light could be driveline related. I had a weight fall off my driveshaft on my old truck felt like it was gonna fall apart at 60mph. Got a great message though! 😆😆
@@HitchinMitch I feel the shaking on the left and right wheel more on the right when I step on the gas pedal, I watched other videso it could millions things lol, like an unbalanced tire or the slip bump in the drive shaft or the shudder wich I don't understand still what it is. Lol
If it's during acceleration I would lean towards something in the driveline. Whether it's a driveshaft, axle or unbalanced wheel. I would start by taking your wheels to get rebalanced, shouldn't cost you too much or anything.
We did this and it worked
Before you drilled and your truck was sputtering or hesitating, did you get any fault codes?
I would get a flashing check engine light that would tell me a misfire. But it would only show when it was a really bad misfire.
He said truck went into limp mode. So there will be codes
@@HitchinMitch was it a P0016 code??
Did you leave the hole open for ever?
Thanks by the way
Yes. I have over 125k miles since drilling mine. It will drop on your skirt. A cleaner option is a catch can but that'll cost $600-$1000
Do you leave the hole in all the time? Or plug it with a screw and drain it periodically?
I just left it open, some people have said you lose boost but you can ask all the tahoes, silverados ands rams that are still trying to catch me. haha
Drilled mine in the same place on my 2016 F-150, pink thin fluid came out, is this coolant??
I couldn't tell you for sure. If the coolant that's in the truck is also pink then there's a possibility. But how it would've made it ways into the intercooler is a different story.
Pink is usually transmission fluid lol
so is it still working? any more misfires? I just got my 4th misfire in 4 months on my 2011 with 93k miles and thinking of doing this. Ford dealer acts like they never heard of the friggin problem and just keeps trying to change the plugs or ignition coils. It would have been great if you wiped it and showed exactly where the hole was but I will figure it out. Did you ever install a catch can?
I've had a catch can on since 40k miles and after drilling the hole the misfire did go away. I did develope a misfire once again but that was related to having aftermarket coil packs. I've been told to only use own coils or high quality.
@@HitchinMitch so drilling the hole is really all that is needed?
@@motodrummer I don't want to say it's all that is needed but it definitely will help. If you already had the coils and plugs replaced then drilling the hole would be the next step besides a catch can. It's free
drill the hole ,my truck runs better then it ever has,,lots of crap came out ,,
@@andyyarrington8602 I drilled it and replaced all plugs and ignition coils about 5k miles ago and power is back and no misfires no matter how hard I stomp on her.
Got that same shirt
What about installing a fitting to a catch can with the weep hold on it
IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII
IIII INTERCOOLER III
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Fitting = CatchCan
Weephole
if you do this you will have boost leak....catch can is way more effective...also aftermarket intercooler has a drain plug...its called blowby. nasty stuff. turbo things
Weep hole and a catch can and these engines will have no problem hitting 300k
I have a catch can and after the weep hole I haven't had a problem since.
Drilled hole in mine at 190k. I'm at 210k and it's starting to act up again.
You've now created a boost leak my friend
I’m running 22psi on mine with a 3/32” weep hole. Boost leak? Nah. Bigger hole? Probably...
...until you look at the price of an intercooler 😆
i drilled mine and it looks like pure OIL!!!
so is that OK?
@@michaelrempe6866 I came here to ask the same question. Also where is it coming from?
Yes that should just be blow by, best way to fix it is to install two catch cans in it but the pinhole is just to relieve all the buildup which your now seeing coming out.
What was the original issue?
Misfire, and I had changed my spark plugs and coil packs and it still came back. So thats why I drilled this hole.
Guessing plugs also
One question: What spark plugs do you recommend for the ecoboost?
When I changed mine I stuck with Motocraft.
@@HitchinMitch 10-4!!! I'll stick to Motorcraft.
@@HitchinMitch what gap do you go with?
@@richardr1683 I tried to stay near .028-.030
i wouldnt recommend drilling holes all willy nilly....
Isn't that transmission fluid dripping?
No, that's oil and moisture.
I drilled mine also installed a catch can and never had another misfire
Stanley Kania please post link to catch can you installed. Thanks
@@jamesj5188 ruclips.net/video/v6h_FOzFMcs/видео.html
Did your ecoboost not let u accelerate past 3-4k rpm , then would start to flash check engine and throw misfire cyl 1 and 3
@@stanleykania7184 - is this issue on the ecoboost? Mine is a 15 expedition
Your going to lose boost. You don't drill holes in the inter cooler. I put catch can on mine. I can't believe how much that catches. But if it works for you than party on. When you changed your plugs were they fouled mainly on the passenger side by chance.
I also have a catch can on mine and the things it holds it's amazing. I haven't really noticed any power loss after doing this. The plugs were pretty evenly bad all the way around.
Forgot to add like your videos. Getting the parts and putting them on. You've done a nice job on your pickup.
Thank you, I appreciate that!
The pin hole amount of air he might be losing has ZERO effect on boost or power.
You're*, and no.
I did this and nothing was there. I do have catch cans installed. So they must be working.
I have the JLT 3.0, it's on the smaller side. What kind do you have?
I'm just runnig 2 cheap Amazon catch cans for now. I have one on the passage and driver's side. The both are small ones. Have to empty them every 3000 miles. Mine was pulling oil from the valve cover into the trubo.
They seem to be doing the trick though. I'll probably start looking into on for the driverside myself.
If you haven't changed your spark plugs that might be causing the misfire. They are known to crack on the EcoBoost.
I did do my plugs and coils before this started happening. Pulled them and checked and they were all fine.
Does this cause a boost leak
If it does it's not noticeable in the least bit. Still has plenty of power.
You have created a boost leak. Is the other solution to remove the inter cooler and clean it out?
It's so minimal that I haven't noticed a change in power at all. But adding a catch can for both sides of the engine will help aswell. I had one on the passenger side even before drilling the hole and didn't fully help.
Did you notice a louder than normal hissing sound under acceleration from the weep hole on your truck?
I didn't notice any change what so ever.
I did mine and had the same hissing noise you do did you figure out what that was
@@codycantrell1293 I drilled my weep hole too big. I put a small screw into the small hole where I could unscrew it when I wanted to drain it and put it back to hold pressure and prevent the hissing
Hello, I have drilled the hole and it seems like it misfires more. I did change my sparkplugs.. not sure what else to do
I would probably look into changing the coil packs if you haven't done those already.
I used coil packs from autozone several times. They kept going bad but were under warranty. Went with accel and havent had an issue in months.
Catch can……
Already had one and issue was still happening.
Get a catch can
I put one on awhile ago almost a year ago I believe.
@@HitchinMitch thanks for vid. I have catch can (oil/ water separator) and drilled the 1/16th in weep hole and both are producing contaminants
@Flatus Antiquitous You're right, if there is only a catch can on the drivers side PCV system. On a boosted engine both sides of the PCV system are dirty sides. With no boost the intake pulls crankcase vapours directly into the intake manifold (manifold under vacuum). Under boost, the PCV valve closes and crankcase vapours enter the drivers side intake tube, goes through the turbo, the intercooler and then into the intake manifold. To prevent this a catch can system needs to capture crankcase vapours on both sides of the PCV system.
@@RobertKohut is there a video that shows how to do this?
@@joegonzales4233 If you search UPR catch can they have kits for both sides of the PCV system, for boosted applications.
DO NOT DRILL A HOLE IN YOUR INTERCOOLER, you are a complete moron if you do. A turbo charged engine is a sealed system and you are now creating a boost leak of metered air. Yes there is a map sensor as well but you're still causing a massive boost leak for no reason. Remove the intercooler, clean it and install a good dual catch can. By drilling a hole and making a boost leak you are robbing your truck of power, fuel economy, and putting more strain on the turbos since they have to work harder to achieve and maintain normal boost levels. I know most f150 owners are not familiar with how turbos work.
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