Nice scientific work on the cooler to show haters that they are worrying for nothing about drilling a hole. No, it's not boring as I found it interesting. Keep up all the good tips Thomas.
I found your test to be absolute and not boring at all. Prevention is worth a million if you don’t have to replace an engine and it literally costs a few cents. Thanks man and great job.
My personal ALH cooler is drilled thanks to Thomas' advice and videos! No issues to speak of and no bullshit! I drain mine every 16000km with the oil change. Take my advice too, Thomas knows what he is doing!
I drilled a 1/16 hole, some nasty shit came out. I feel good knowing its not caking on my valves and internals. Also, i put a catch can on. Both together have changed the overall performance and gas mileage. I have zero power loss, maybe power gain actually. I have run into all the issues such as missfire, coil replacements, nasty looking spark plugs, limp mode, you name it... drill this hole, get a catch can, and be happy.
Great video! Cut a small piece of silicone hose to use as a washer under the screw (just because). Draining is is now one regular step during my oil change. Thank you for helping us protect our engines from runaway.
Dude, I for one appreciate the time and effort. I have a 2012 3.5 in my f150. Just passed 70k miles. I have been on the fence about drilling. But now I definitely am convinced it needs to be done. Thank you !
Excellent Idea. I have a 7.3 ford and I believe the intercooler is full of oil. Lack of power due to half the intercooler full. It is a 2000 F550 with 280 K on it. Always been a work truck and most likely neglected. I have owned it for a year now. So this will be the first step. Next is injectors and glow plugs. Everything is original so time to give some TLC
I doubt that it is half full... you have bigger problems if it is. This was my intercooler when it was full with windshield washer fluid (used for cooling the combustion under boost)... injector nozzle was stuck open. ruclips.net/video/kY-2HRUdaqQ/видео.html
You're a great mechanic, that Is a really smart way to drain the oil quick and easy. In the morning I'm drilling and installing a screw on my car. The catch can idea is way to much work for the same result. Drill and screw best way to go!!! Glad the know there are good mechanics out there like you that go the extra mile. Thank you for making videos they have saved me money and taught me a thing or two.
used to build aftermarket radiators. during testing slash blowing up the pressure we reached was 85 psi. these were not oem radiators. oem about 40 45 psi. the plastic tank will usually split at the header or where the alluminum crimps on. being the intercooler is built to with stand higher pressures I would say it would make quite a bang at around 100 psi. just my input. Be careful.
Excellent video once again. Some trucks (Volvo, Scania etc.) have small hole in intercooler to let the condensing water to escape. Small hole does not affect the boost as much one might think, but it prevents hydro-lock 100%.
Shawn Miller Those that "know better" don't do anything about it (on their car) or spend more money than is needed. A simple drill & drain is too simple for their intellect... so they don't stoop to the grease monkey level, even if it means saving $ or an engine. Thank you for watching!
Haha, well, just after making the comment below, I found out that the Ford EcoBoost guys are all drilling their CAC's in order to prevent/resolve poor running concerns! You were ahead of your time Thomas!
Slightly different issue... water condensing in the cooler that gets pushed up and causes misfires. VW Common rail TDI engines also have water collecting issues. The EcoBoost guys leave a hole in the cooler. I'm just draining the pcv oil and plugging the hole after.
Was this Video boring? Yes, but honestly it was very educational. I have a Turbo in my Truck and it was suggested that this be done. So now I have an understanding how drilling a hole and simply screwing in a screw can keep the pressure and since we are only talking 20psi any amount of loss is very low if any at all.
honnestly in the semi truck buisness we have to do an air to air leak test and most of the specs are you bring it up to 30psi and you shouldnt lose more then 5psi within 15 seconde!! i did this to my alh and actually put 2 in so it can flow more! one at the lowest spot and one at the highest! keep up the awesome work!! you videos are maybe a little boring but i always learn something from them!! :P
jessy6464 Thanks for the info! It's always cool to hear what others do (for a living) and what they do to their cars. "Watching someone work" (by title alone) should suggest a somewhat boring visual experience... I'm a visual learner, if others made videos like I do (point of view), I would watch them all day!
Sorry I'm almost 2 year to the day late with my comment but this speaks volumes on how timeless these videos are. I think this is a great idea Thomas, I was sceptic when I first saw you drilling a hole in the intercooler when the system is pressurized and plugging it with a little screw but like you noted before your beautiful experiment this is minimal in risk vs. an engine risking revving up uncontrollably until it blows up. I think it's great that you take time after your shift of during your lunch to do these test to prove your point. don't let the gremlins comments get to you, none of them understand what you probably see in a week let alone in your career as a mechanic. Keep up the great videos. PS: Seen lots of A4 front wheel bearings on your channel but no rear wheel bearings for A4's. Remember me when you come across a 2005 Jetta with a bad rear bearing. I own a TDI with close to 600,000km and finally the rear bearing has let go. Dry as a bone. LOL Cheers
You are a great mechanic I don't know how there could be haters should see some of the experiences I've had with VW mechanic from where I live bought an alh for my girlfriend got it pretty cheap turbo wasn't working the actuator rod it out had a big hole in it buddy put new actuator on and set it my stupidity didn't ask him if he even checked the intercooler for oil he didn't drove it down the road 5 minutes bent a connecting rod had to put new motor in drain your intercoolers buddy knows what he's talking about
Sorry to hear... thank you for sharing your ALH Intercooler experience! Send me your mailing address and I'll send you some of my channel stickers! My email address can be found here: ruclips.net/user/ExoVCDSabout
Glad I seen this video, I have a new 2nd generation eco 3.5 Ive seen that this can cause problems with the 3.5 overtime, I will investigate my cooler later to see if they might have added a drain plug, But something tells me they have not. Since the engine maker also likes to service and sell parts. I have no problem drilling a small hole for a screw, If something happens to the hole would be easy enough to go one size larger on the screw. But the side wall looks thick enough that one could remove the screw many times with no problems, I can easily drain it myself when I change the oil, no big deal. Thanks
I´ve done it myself in my ALH, in my experience even the small plastic debris got pulled out by the drill bit. If corrosion is a concern use an stainless screw :P Thanks for the tip Thomas. I dont think there´s a need to blow things up, we never know what may happen, stay safe.
Fernando MMC Thank you for your input and sharing that you have done it yourself! I am worried about how it will blow up... I'm considering putting the intercooler in a metal bin (with my gopro inside the bin) so that the metal bin will catch any flying debris.
***** i've met guys runing 2 - 2.5bar (36 psi) on 1.9 PD TDIs with bigger turbos on daily cars. I dont know what kind of intercoolers they use but probably you will need to raise the pressure higher before something blows :\ Using some sort of metal bin seems a good idea, safety first ;)
Wow this is awesome thanks for this information. This will help me not only save time but also prevent engines from blowing up. I find sometimes oil if build up too much will sneak up in so it takes time to empty it.
I've heard of guys drilling a smaller hole and leaving it open... on the newer diesels, the ones that are prone to intercooler icing, it prevents ice from forming because the water can drain out.
Wow! That is truly amazing stuff. Thomas I believe you more then some of the blogs I read. Your knowledge is awesome. I didn't doubt you. I had questions and in this video you answered them. Not boring, informative. It's a good lesson. Shut off the video before it ends your a fool. Watch and learn. I wish you were my mechanic. Great work as always. Thanks again.
klitoni1 Thanks! I would definitely recommend checking for oil if it is an older vehicle (6yrs+). On a side note, I put a turbo on my old car with an intercooler... vented the PCV to atmosphere however. After 7 years of driving, the intercooler looked like brand new inside, not a spec of oil or dirt.
As I have mentioned before, I've done it to mine and there is no ill effect. Even drove in the summer with the screw out of it and no codes for boost leak. I know guys that do this exact drill hole on the MK5/6 TDI air to air intercooler but not because of oil build up. Water build up in the winter.
If one was really concerned of a leak from the screw they could put some RTV or a o-ring on the screw head to be sure it wouldn't have any leaks, or install a air compressor drain cock in the cooler. Good tip.
To my brain, drilling and plugging shouldn't negatively affect boost. I drilled (1/8" bit) my ALH with 330,000 km's (likely never drained), about 1/2 a liter+ of oil came out. With the time I saved drilling instead of full disassembly, I was able to de-coke my EGR and top of my intake. I'll do a full clean later (It was plugged solid, again never cleaned by previous owner). My EGR and first 3 inches of intake were packed solid with 3 pencil sized holes through the EGR's coking and maybe a small pinky finger sized hole for the intake to weeze through. Much better now. I didn't want to clean the EGR without draining the oil from the intercooler afterward. Suck hard on a pinched drinking straw in water... then, stop pinching... where did all the water go? :P I don't recommend cleaning intake while mounted on the car. I just did the top portion about 3 inches in... CAREFULLY with a good shop vac grabbing everything as I slowly scraped it away a little at a time with a screwdriver. Anyway, thanks for the video, hopefully put some minds at ease.
Thank you for sharing your "drain experience" and the tip about how to clean the EGR/ intake with a shop vac! Yes, that would surely have caused a runaway had you not drained it first. Pieces that fall further into the intake will get past the valves and that can cause (if lucky) noise when starting the engine (carbon gets compressed between piston & cylinder head... at worst is could crack a piston.
@@EXOVCDS Hi, i no it was 5 years ago when u did this vid, but i watch all your vids over and over, sure helps me out, i have 09 caddy 1.9 tdi BLS and most things in your vids are the same for the caddy
Well Thomas I watched it all , was not boring at all, quite interesting as a mater of fact. Kinda got a vibe from the tone of your voice you wanted to rip someone's head off. :) Everything seems logical to me as far as the oil removal is concerned . The amount of normal pressure I assume would never reach the shown tested pressures. May I suggest the use of an automatic drain valve that opens with the loss of ignition that automatically seals once ignition is applied during operation or a manual valve that drains to a catch can if there is available space. Plenty of electromagnetic solenoid type valves available , increased cost compared to a screw but improved and worth the investment for your customers and you to install and be rewarded justly. You know for sure engineering at VW has the wheels turning as well. Just a thought. Take care Steve
Steve Rob Interesting idea and not a bad one either! Though, you can't beat a drill & plug in its simplicity! I drain it while the engine oil pan is draining & am checking tire pressure. DIY'ers can do the same... once they get over the fear of drilling. Hose removal requires extra work and stuffing rags in the opening. To each his own... I just felt that it was time to show the haters that this causes no ill effects. I think one of my viewers recently had a "runaway" with his TDI. Haven't heard much since (he was waiting for tools to continue with the diagnosis), but from how he had explained things, it sounded like this is what happened to him (oil ingestion from the cooler).
+Thomas EXOVCDS I've had a few incidents myself of little rev jumps and often thought about the intercooler oil issue being the cause. I like this method and will do it myself, however why not use a little rubber oring on the screw to stop even that minimal pressure loss?
***** As noted & shown by the gauges... it's not a pressure loss. Pressure loss is not being able to hold pressure (what goes in stays in). Take a close look at your engine intake plumbing and look for signs of oil... are you sealing those areas of "pressure loss" as well?
great video, thanks for taking time to post and excellent proof of principle. I like the info on a 1/16" hole can be left unplugged...the pressure would continously push out the foreign matter during operation. Combined with a catch can it would be very effective.
Just FYI friend. Already had the catch can. .. Had the problem 20 K miles ago, so added a catch can and changed the plugs ( I was afraid to drill the intercooler at that time). Problem came back...so I drilled the 1/16th hole, changed plugs again this time with FORD TB recommended .028 gap. Found one plug with small cracks in porcelain. Not sure what happened, but in my case, the Moroso catch can may not have "caught" enough. Thanks for your response
I'm not familiar with Ford intercoolers and the oil / water issues they have. My intercooler drilling / draining / plugging with a screw is focused on older TDI engines.... to prevent oil from being forced into the intake, which can cause a runaway of the engine / major mechanical damage.
A lot of the big diesel engines I work on have condensation drains engineered into the intake system, a tiny hole that always leaks boost..... you could drill a 0.25mm hole in that cooler and leave it open and not have problems.
Condensation is different from oil collecting. Water draining out constantly does not make a mess like oil. It's better to collect the oil and plug the hole after each drain.
@@EXOVCDS yes I agree, even the condensate drains get oil from them and are collected. Just a comment that it would do no harm to the engine or the way it runs.
Yes, I should have agreed that it was ok to do... but depending on the engine, it can make a mess under the chassis (getting all over while driving) on the driveway at home. Some Ecoboost owners leave the hole open so the condensation can drain all the time (to prevent misfires).
Ok I understand your fix and it makes sense. What about if you are wading in some water. Sinse that hole is on the low point of the intercooler wont you get water ingress into the intercooler and that can go in your engine alsoand lead again to misfire?
mixhael6609 Where in this video or in my other 1200 videos... do I show that I leave the hole OPEN? I drill a hole to drain oil that collects... AFTER draining I plug the hole with a SCREW. Did you watch the video? Seriously... did you? Seems like for the majority of people watching this... I waisted 25min of my life making a video to help people save / prevent an engine blow-up due to oil ingestion. Sorry if my reply seems harsh... it just doesn't make sense to me that I get comments like yours when I explain everything in the video.
Isn't the system normally under positive pressure? How would water get in through a plugged hole in that situation? If it did have a minor leak somehow, you might blow some tiny bubbles in the water and scare a frog but other than that... ?
Thanks for the info. Very useful and easy solution to a problem that might cost thousands if not taken care of. (easy & cheap remedy!!) Also dig the science.
Just came across this interesting video! I have been thinking about drilling a drain hole in my smic on my mk1 Audi TT Quattro as I’m getting some smoke from that area in the engine bay where the Intercooler is located and also some blue smoke under boost from the exhaust I’m wondering if it’s due to oil burning and being drawn up into the intake turbo etc? Keep up the great work you do🔧👍🏻
Just saw this old video and I'm sure I'm not the only one to comment on why he doesn't turn it upside down while drilling to keep any drillings from falling in ,or at least after drilling turn it over and give it a few raps to knock any possible drillings out.. am I being too careful?
May be local, after seeing the Quad.ca sticker on your toolbox...as I check out the website fairly regularly! At any rate, just picked up a 2016 F150 XLT with the 3.5 Ecoboost, and will be adding the catch-can modification, but found an interest in whether I should try this modification as well. With the ability of adding a screw to fill the hole 'if one wanted to'...it seems like a sensible mod. Just wondering if moisture could be 'introduced' through a hole though, or if it would be negligible? I'm impressed by all the tools and gizmo's you have! Appreciate this, thanks for taking the time for this video...much appreciated!
The ecoboost issue is not the same reason I "drain & plug" the intercoolers on VW engines... not sure why ecoboost folk keep finding my videos. Leaving a small open hole is a "non issue". The reason I plug the coolers, is to prevent oil from dripping on my customers' driveways. Ecoboost engines (from what I gather) have a "condensation" issue... the VW engines collect PCV oil in the coolers. Excessive amounts of oil will result in misfires under load (similar to ecoboost engines) and can even cause diesel engines to runaway & explode... that's why I check / drain the coolers.
@@EXOVCDS it keeps showing up for us because each of us 3.5 EB owners end up searching "intercooler drilling" at some point. I just added a 1/16" weep hole to my 2011, bunch of condensate and oil blew out. Truck runs much smoother now. Deciding on whether I want to drill it out to 1/8" and plug it like in this video and drain every oil change or just leave it open.
Hi Thomas! good video, not boring at all good point,way to go.. Question for you " In order to replace the intercooler is it necessary to remove the front bumper, car in question 2003 ALH" Thank you.
I believe it can be taken out with bumper in place... but easier with bumper removed. Bumper removal does not take long / is easy... hardest part is attaching the release pull rod when you put the bumper / grill back on.
Wouldn't a small rubber washer added to the small 1/8th inch screw possibly help minimize the bubbles from the boost leak? I know over time the washer would need to be replaced, but as the screw rusts so would the screw. Just a thought, I am no mechanic, but I own a 2003 A4 1.8t and use your vids to work on it. Thanks for all your work man, you are truly brilliant.
Taylor Anthony You can use whatever you wish to help seal it further... my point was that there is no need to worry about a "boost" leak. Although these bubbles indicate an air leak, I honestly can't categorize them as being one... compared to when a hose clamp is loose (as an example).
You can do whatever you feel comfortable with. Drilling, draining and plugging is the quickest, cheapest & safest way to go. There are many DIY step-by-step articles that can be found on how to clean coolers. Sadly, the cooler will get dirty / oily again, no matter how clean you can get it.
I leave the 2 mm hole open *all* the time; if i see oil on the ground... turbo problem...then i might plug it with a screw,and drain and monitor things from there; a run-away engine might kill you,and the 2 mm hole prevents that(and still,NOT always enough,you'd need an open 5 or 6 mm hole for that!).
Nobody listens to or reads what I post in my videos... all of my "oil draining" videos of intercoolers are of TDI diesel engines. 99% of the oil that collects in those coolers is oil from the PCV. I too blew up an engine because of oil that was in the cooler... it was a TDI diesel engine.... THATS why I drain the coolers. It's NOT an issue on 95% of TURBO GASOLINE engines. Only on the 5% that have a similar cooler design where OIL CAN COLLECT.
Michael Beckett Just using a similar procedure that's listed in the service manuals... I should have added some smoke from my smoke machine, maybe when I blow it up!
Seems like a safe, well thought out improvement. Not sure why people take such issue with this. Almost like these people have never seen the rock hard carbon crap in an intake that the engine can/does ingest on occasion.
An intercooler should almost always have positive pressure. Nothing else should get in, unless you park it near water and the water rises and it gets into that hole. But there is always going to be a "what if".
Correct! I took a car on a test drive with the screw removed... no boost code set and no real difference between specified & actual boost. I really don't understand how people can get so freaked out about a screw in the cooler.
You never notice it being out except for at the pump, we tested a few and all of them lost at least 2mpg, mainly because with the screw out it's always under boost because you essentially have a pretty good leak, put a screw in it and move on
Nice science project. Thanks, but from all the info I have bee able to gather on the net, it appears with drilling a 1/16th hole you do not have to plug the hole as there appears to be no, or very minimal loss of boost. Just leave the drain hole open.
Very nice video much appreciated when do you know this is a problem I have a 2014 EcoBoost F150 48000 MI it seems to be running fine I am wondering if I should drill it anyway as a precaution? I appreciate any feedback
I don't have any EcoBoost experience. My intercooler drilling, draining & plugging tutorials are specific to VW 1.8T & 1.9L TDI engines (oil accumulates over time). From what I have heard, EcoBoost engines have condensation issues. Drilling & leaving a hole to allow water to drain, sounds like a good idea and worth doing (symptom or not)... as a preventive measure.
Hello, why is this such an issue on this engine...very curious? I’ve had a dozen Saab’s,Volvos and Vw with no know issue...what is so unique to this design that it’s problsmatic?
Time... A4 / mk4 VWs are up to 18 years old now. PCV fumes collect at the base of the intercooler. If the vehicle is only used for short distance stop & go driving, the oil will never get carried out of the cooler... that's why it collects. Other intercooler / intake designs don't have an area where oil will / can collect.
Just needs to be checked / drained at every oil change to monitor turbo & PCV condition... and to prevent engine damage. Simple. =) Thanks for watching!
Thomas EXOVCDS yes you can put catch can under car. all my diesels have some leak somewhere in ic lines with regards to oil squeezing between fittings. the map sensor will notice MINISCULE drop in boost and compensate thru ecu to boost actuator thru n75 to keep boost on vnt sustained at higher level to make up for ity bity leak. yez thez armchair mechanics r the cats meow huh. dont let them get to you. good job btw. and for those out there, no you wont overwork the turbo.
OK this is what I did on my 2014 3.5 eco... use a self tapper (the screw if you don't know) and after draining the intercooler screw it back in. It threads itself, and is reusable. Yeah draining the intercooler is a minor inconvenience but it was over-engineered and it does keep that air cold. Luckily for me barely anything ever came out (I live in far Northern California it's not humid here on those 112 degree summers 60 degree winters). A factory drain valve would have been too smart. Overall the only issue I had on my Eco is the MAP sensors getting dirty and it dying at random. Dirty MAP sensors produce the same issues that a flooded intercooler does (stuttering) but then it kills itself and goes into limp mode until its restarted. ->If the MAP sensors get dirty (there's 2) - just clean them with MAS sensor cleaner, re-install and clear/reset the computer then idle the vehicle idle for 10min from cold to re-train the TPS on the throttle body. (check spark plugs while you in there) Mine ran into this issue (dying constantly with wrench in the dashboard screen and no error codes). Runs like it was new again. I never realized how complex these systems are now, and how it also effected shifting as well. Everything is synchronized so perfectly.
Great video as always..by the way i made a hole in my cooler 6 months ago when i first saw your video...and the car works great, perfect..i put a screw and a o ring and never had single problem...i have to say thomas since i found your channel i can honestly say i've learned many great tips regarding alh engines...same engine as the asv one..by the way i wanted to know if in your service are any vw polo 6n2 cars..i bought a 2001 1.4 vw polo and i wonder if you encountered any ?...
Andrei Ailoaie Thank you for sharing your drilling & draining experience! We don't have Polo's here in North America, but I can get service information if you ever need any... just send me a message via youtube or my email (on my website).
I watched a bunch of videos here on my stutter/misfire issues with my 2014 f150 3.5 L w/ecoboost while accelerating hard to pass. The issues started to show last spring and occasionally after that, always in high humidity. Last week it got so bad it threw the check engine light and code p0303 (misfire cyl 3) and put the truck in the limp mode. I drilled a 3/32 hole in the driver's side bottom near where you did and got about 1/4 cup of oil out. I also changed the plugs that were fouled, out of gap and #3 was cracked and had carbon tracking. I did not plug the hole as the other guys didn't either. Test run after warmed up to simulate a full throttle passing action. It was like new again and had full power. My question is, where is that oil coming from? Why is the engine oil leaking in there or is that just a normal thing for intercoolers? You would think they would incorporate a drain port.
PCV oil in the intake is normal... depending on intake design, some intercoolers collect more than normal amounts of oil. Too much oil is a sign of possible engine or turbo issues.
@@EXOVCDS thanks, at 75k miles I don't think 1/4 cup is too bad I guess. I was reading on others that ford has been playing with different air dams to keep the air from condensing when its humid, but won't admit to a problem.
You can keep it open... but it will leak oil and the oil will get on everything under the car while you are driving. I would plug it with a screw and check / drain it at every oil change (once a year).
I changed my engine oil 6000 km ago with 5w40..today i checked the level and it needs to fe filled up..can i use 10w40 if i respect the VW 505.00 norm?..maybe it won't go down so fast if i increase the viscosity
Andrei Ailoaie How low on the dipstick / how much oil? What year & engine? Some engines are very specific to 5W30 or 5W40, going away from that might not be good... I don't know if 5 points will make a difference (5w to 10w) in oil usage or engine performance ... you can try. Have a look in the following forum / post a question there (lots of very smart people there)! www.bobistheoilguy.com/
This popped up in my recommendations right after the live stream tonight. I had no idea that this was so controversial. Responding to the inter-cooler 1/8" drain hole haters. WTF! Well done sir. Not much doubt after seeing this. For the extremists, put a dab of sealant on the screw before putting it in to seal up that .010 boost leak! haha The average guy installing a turbo couldn't even come close to sealing up a turbo install this well. New ideas take time to catch on Thomas, before long everybody will be doing this so you can feel good.
Most turbo engines don't have this type of issue.. I check turbo gasoline engine intercoolers as well, they fare better and when they show excessive oil... it's usually the turbo that's the cause. I vent the PCV to atmosphere on my Turbo E34, that way I know that any oil in the cooler has to be from the turbo.
I've heard that the turbo is usually the cause. I have to remember that you're dealing with the PCV oil on the TDI's. I should look into the configuration of that system to better understand. Hey, you'd better get to sleep. Need you sharp as a tack for tomorrows live chat! Thanks!
Gasoline engines have PCV oil in the intercooler as well... but not as much. Eliminating the PCV / venting it can help determine which the source of the oil is.
I have 15 3.5 ecoboost, its on limp mode with check engine light, if i would to drill the hole and take to ford service will that have consequences upon them telling me that i need a new cooler? Is ot better to just drain than making a hole?
ponce60 I have no experience with Ford ecoboost engines. The oil problem that I am showing in my videos is different from the water issues that the ecoboost engines have.
dosent the tdi have the shudder valve to stop runaway, or was you not talking about a vag when you said about your experience with diesel runaway? also off subject..... what does a ti do with excess boost when coming off the throttle, a petrol has a diverter valve, so where does a tdi dump its excess boost??
Shudder valve only helps when there is no fuel... there's no throttle plate, so any remaining boost just goes into the cylinders. Also, the variable nozzle turbo fins open to slow turbo spool when the foot is taken off of the gas pedal.
ok, but if its running away on oil say from a faulty turbo seal or over time oil build up in the intercooler the shut off valve on the intake cuts air supply shutting the runaway down no??? thanks for your reply, love your channel man!
+andrew page The valve only closes for 1 to 2 seconds and then opens again... you would have to hold it shut manually. By the time the runaway starts, you do not have time to stop the car, open the hood & hold it closed till the engine stops... without causing damage. A small runaway without damage is possible, but even then, parts get stressed due to the uncontrolled combustion & rev limit.
I'm not familiar with the design of the charge system (air ducting from turbo to intercooler and onward to the intake manifold) for this engine. Monitoring for oil in the intake / charge system is worth doing... more so on older engines / vehicles that have had time to collect oil in the system. If there is an easily accessible "low spot" in the air charge ducting... check for oil in that area at every oil change, so you can keep track of / monitor for increases in oil (which can be a sign of turbo or PCV issue).
A small 1/8" / 3mm hole can be left open, but it will leave oil on the floor wherever you park. Plug the hole with a small screw... after draining the cooler.
@RonnieYoung-zx8wu Some intercooler have a problem with condensing water / water collecting in the cooler. The result is similar to oil collecting... can cause misfires during acceleration.
Last year I've clean the EGR valve and intake manifold, but few weeks ago I've observed that on EGR valve, intake manifold, vacuum pump and vacuum lines is a lot of oil, and I was thinking that the intercooler is responsible for that. Thanks to your videos, I`ve just drain the oil from my ALH intercooler and the colected amount of oil was around 50 ml. It is possible that the oil from the vacuum lines and vacuum pump to come from another source?
The intercooler coolects oil from the PCV & the turbo. Odds are that 99% of the oil is from the PCV (valve cover breather valve). This is normal... You can replace the PCV breather valve with a new one, odds are that it is not functioning 100%. If oil is coming out of the small hoes on the side of the EGR, replace the EGR. To check the turbo, remove the inlet hose at the turbo and move the compressor shaft... should have no wiggle / free-play.
I check all upright mounted coolers... we don't see too many AHU's anymore, but if I remember correctly, the last one I drained had a little oil in it. Again, a little is perfectly normal.
Hello Thomas EXOVCDS, I would have a question to you. What do you say, is it a good idea (I know the answer, but still) to remove the intercooler and clean it with petrol, or oil dissolver solution? The idea is to have all the oil "deposits" removed from the pipes and therefore better cooling of air and of course flow of it. What do you say? Also if I use petrol (as degreaser) would make some damage to some part of intercooler (o-rings, rubber sealings etc) or would be just easier to replace it with a new one? Would this cleanig matter in cars performance? Does it worth to do this. I had to replace the turbo, I just want to be sure that no "bad/angry particles" are in the air pipes, so could damage the new turbo. Hope I was clear what I'm thing on. AND MANY THANKS for your vieos. Regards
I would only clean it if there was a possibility of turbo parts (compressor wheel / metal shavings etc) being in the intake system due to a turbo failure... so yes, it is better to clean it. Soapy water or degreaser spray & then flush with water should all be all that it needs. On an engine that has no turbo failure or any other type of mechanical issue that could cause debris to get into the cooler... I would not worry about cleaning the cooler. Just draining the oil is enough maintenance.
WRONG! Oily intercooler tubes lose the capacity to transfer heat well. Air temp at engine inlet goes up and not only engine looses power with a less dense air charge, but more importantly, oil droplets REDUCE effective octane number of the fuel and constitute pre-ignition points in the combustion chamber, and to add insult to injury, the oil leaves carbon deposits inside the combustion chamber and piston top, reducing combustion chamber volume and raising compression ratio too much. And almost all of the oil comes from the damn PCV system from badly designed, inefficient PCV valves. Turbo experts have known that an efficient "CATCH-CAN" that can trap the oil mist before the Intercooler is badly needed, specially in Turbo and supercharged engines that have more blow-by than lesser powered normally aspirated engines. Very few engines have PROPERLY designed Catch-Cans. Another thing with the Intercooler design that you show in your video, is that the end tanks were incorrectly designed, as their geometry precludes a good flow over all the tubes (the inlet tank has more flow area in one end, and the outlet tank AGAIN allow more flow IN THE SAME TUBES... a better design has the inlet diagonally opposed to the outlet, so that ALL the tubes share roughly the same flow. This happens because factory design engineers put convenience above proper design for flow.
+Alfredo Márquez I don't see the point in pointing out that you are smarter than everyone. This video is about draining the oil out of the intercooler and the reason why I do it. Yes, a catch can would be better... but that's not what the video is about. A simple drain of the oil at every oil change is cheaper than the cost & installation of a good catch can system. Engines have been running for 100 years with no catch can. Just because something can be added to an engine, doesn't mean that it has to be.
Although I appreciate every video you have done. It's helped me a ton when I first got into TDI vws. But don't be lazy and drill a hole. Spend the extra half hr and take out the intercooler and charge pipes and clean them all that way. And if you do drill a hole...put a drain valve on. Dont leave it sloppy with a screw
Although I appreciate you watching and commenting... don't let your overthinking get to you. A screw in the hole is all that is needed. I do the draining for free for my customers. They don't get charged for this "extra service". Your method is fine for DIY'ers who have extra time on their hands. By the time I finish checking tire pressure, the draining has stopped and I plug the hole. There is NOTHING ELSE that makes more sense, than those 5 minutes of work (drilling, draining, plugging)... compared to blowing an engine because too much oil was in the cooler. If I hadn't posted a video about this "issue"... would you be aware of it? How many other channels do you watch where you get info like this? Do the other channels answer / reply to all questions like I do? Do they get criticism for not helping? If I posted a video of how to remove the cooler for cleaning, how many comments do you think I would get, saying stuff like: way too much work, why don't you just soak it up with a rag in the cooler opening, why don't you install a catch can. 5min is all it takes to do what I do. Post a video of how to do it correctly... I'll be the first to comment!
@@EXOVCDS I do have a catch can on all 3 of my diesel vehicles. You know it's very simple to do any 99% of diyers can do it. My thought was what happens to the screw for us that run tuned cars with over 25 psi. Not that debris will likely get in there, but the possibility of a boost leak and possibly cracking around the whole if someone overboosts
Again, you are overthinking things... but like I said, DIY'ers can do what they want, since they have all the time they need. I record while I am "working" on customer's car... time is money. 5 Min is all it takes.
1:10 oh so it was a turbo diesel then? A gasoline engine will not run away like a diesel engine sucking in oil from a bad turbo seal (or whatnot) and using it as fuel. A gasoline engine requires spark to run away, especially the modern engines that you use. My father's 427 SB chevy would have a sort of issue (mainly not turning off when he quit the ignition) but that is no where near what a run away is.
ThorOtheBIG Correct... a gasoline engine will not runaway, but damage can still occur. Run-on after a shut down is due to timing, carbon buildup & fuel... hot carbon ignites fuel.
very good work. i admire your patience with the doubters. ich würde mir auch nicht zu viel dabei denken, wenn leute im internet etwas kommentieren von dem sie offensichtlich keine ahnung haben. ist leider meistens die regel (meiner bescheidenen meinung nach;)). ich wünsche noch eine gute zeit. have a nice time.
Hi Thomas. What can we use to clean an intercooler? Are there any products that are recommended/not recommended? Soap and water? I've got a 1.6 T-GDI and was running without catch cans for about 10,000 miles... would like to know that my intercooler is clean before driving it further. Peace of mind, really. Thank you.
Whatever works... I only "wash / clean" coolers when debris is in them. Otherwise draining the oil is all that is needed. There will always be a film of oil in the cooler (PVC fumes), so it's not necessary to have them sparkle clean.
Roger that. Thank you very much for your awesome/informative video! Let the haters hate as they do best! Drilled my EB 3.5 yesterday and put on a UPR Dual Catch Can system. Will drain intercooler every 5k. What's your take on Wagner IC v/ Ford stock? Thanks again!!!
Crossing an intersection at the crosswalk is the safest thing to do... everyone knows it. Jaywalking is done because it saves time. I get the catch can mind set... I just don't think I need to be reminded of it constantly.
Lol Subaru puts them on top for this very reason, most of the oil will just slowly get burned. Oil in every intercooler I have ever taken off. From 3k cars to 200k cars. Couldn't imagine a high mileage Diesel engine!
+Francis Théroux One that fits into the 1/8" hole... can be found at your local Hardware / Home Depot store. Or send me a sticker and I will send you a "screw" that will fit (with one of my stickers). ruclips.net/video/2rN_rX5M-k8/видео.html
Problem isn't why you're doing it, it's how. I don't mind taking an extra twenty minutes to pull it out and put it in to drain and flush mine without drilling it. Mightn't be as easy, but I'm not lazy so it's ok.
hey I think I would take the advice from somebody who spent 25 minutes making a video demonstrating it over some people in the comments saying "haha boost leak"
Thanks... I saved another engine last week (first time customer, cooler was never checked / drained before... 16 years old). Oil in the cooler is a ticking time bomb. Just a matter of time till it gets forced up into the engine. The cooler is a great "catch can"... people need to treat it as such and start checking it at every oil change! =)
Nice demonstration, manufacturers should include a drain valve on all coolers.
Nice scientific work on the cooler to show haters that they are worrying for nothing about drilling a hole. No, it's not boring as I found it interesting. Keep up all the good tips Thomas.
I found your test to be absolute and not boring at all. Prevention is worth a million if you don’t have to replace an engine and it literally costs a few cents. Thanks man and great job.
Thank you... thank you for watching!
You are so good with your advice that I am amazed anyone actually gives you some grief. Your a fantastic guy and you help people allot.
My personal ALH cooler is drilled thanks to Thomas' advice and videos! No issues to speak of and no bullshit! I drain mine every 16000km with the oil change.
Take my advice too, Thomas knows what he is doing!
Michael Shone Thanks for sharing & backing my method!
Just leave it open...
If you don't mind oil stains in your garage / driveway... sure.
I drilled a 1/16 hole, some nasty shit came out. I feel good knowing its not caking on my valves and internals. Also, i put a catch can on. Both together have changed the overall performance and gas mileage. I have zero power loss, maybe power gain actually. I have run into all the issues such as missfire, coil replacements, nasty looking spark plugs, limp mode, you name it... drill this hole, get a catch can, and be happy.
Thank you for sharing your experience.
Travis byington going to drill mine this weekend ;) thanks for the info!
Great video! Cut a small piece of silicone hose to use as a washer under the screw (just because). Draining is is now one regular step during my oil change. Thank you for helping us protect our engines from runaway.
Thank you for watching & taking the time to comment!
And thank you for accepting this as good practice with regular service!
Dude, I for one appreciate the time and effort. I have a 2012 3.5 in my f150. Just passed 70k miles. I have been on the fence about drilling. But now I definitely am convinced it needs to be done. Thank you !
Thank you for watching!
I have same truck. Have had a 1/16th hole for 2 years now. No issues.
@@jt7559 Thank you for sharing!
Do you plug the hole or just keep it open? It appears a lot of people just drill it. I have a 2011 F150 3.5 EcoBoost
@@n54tuners51 plug it, I tested it, I lost 2mpg with the plug out, truck was always under boost while driving
Excellent Idea. I have a 7.3 ford and I believe the intercooler is full of oil. Lack of power due to half the intercooler full. It is a 2000 F550 with 280 K on it. Always been a work truck and most likely neglected. I have owned it for a year now. So this will be the first step. Next is injectors and glow plugs. Everything is original so time to give some TLC
I doubt that it is half full... you have bigger problems if it is. This was my intercooler when it was full with windshield washer fluid (used for cooling the combustion under boost)... injector nozzle was stuck open.
ruclips.net/video/kY-2HRUdaqQ/видео.html
You're a great mechanic, that Is a really smart way to drain the oil quick and easy. In the morning I'm drilling and installing a screw on my car. The catch can idea is way to much work for the same result. Drill and screw best way to go!!! Glad the know there are good mechanics out there like you that go the extra mile. Thank you for making videos they have saved me money and taught me a thing or two.
Thank you for watching & thank you for the kind words!
Thomas EXOVCDS
good shiznittall brother. how can I test my whole system with the car off for boost leaks? just got the car already turboed
used to build aftermarket radiators. during testing slash blowing up the pressure we reached was 85 psi. these were not oem radiators. oem about 40 45 psi. the plastic tank will usually split at the header or where the alluminum crimps on. being the intercooler is built to with stand higher pressures I would say it would make quite a bang at around 100 psi. just my input. Be careful.
Excellent video once again. Some trucks (Volvo, Scania etc.) have small hole in intercooler to let the condensing water to escape. Small hole does not affect the boost as much one might think, but it prevents hydro-lock 100%.
The people that have all the answers or complaints why are they watching the video instead of making a video... Thanks Thomas great job!!!
Shawn Miller Those that "know better" don't do anything about it (on their car) or spend more money than is needed. A simple drill & drain is too simple for their intellect... so they don't stoop to the grease monkey level, even if it means saving $ or an engine. Thank you for watching!
david evans Yes, that'll work well... or you could use a 10 cent screw.
Excellent video for understanding the intercooler as a weak link in turbo engines.
Thank you.
Have you seen what happened to my cooler?
ruclips.net/video/kY-2HRUdaqQ/видео.html
Full video here:
ruclips.net/video/4tC8XeaCTdY/видео.html
Haha, well, just after making the comment below, I found out that the Ford EcoBoost guys are all drilling their CAC's in order to prevent/resolve poor running concerns! You were ahead of your time Thomas!
Slightly different issue... water condensing in the cooler that gets pushed up and causes misfires. VW Common rail TDI engines also have water collecting issues. The EcoBoost guys leave a hole in the cooler. I'm just draining the pcv oil and plugging the hole after.
I just done my 2014 an it actually helped clear up the shudder it had under acceleration
The CR TDI's have a tendency to accumulate water in the cooler (due to EGR) ... is that what you found?
Thank you for watching.
Sorry, not sure why I assumed you owned a TDI.
Was this Video boring? Yes, but honestly it was very educational. I have a Turbo in my Truck and it was suggested that this be done. So now I have an understanding how drilling a hole and simply screwing in a screw can keep the pressure and since we are only talking 20psi any amount of loss is very low if any at all.
Plugging is not necessary, but it keeps the driveway clean.
Thank you for watching!
honnestly in the semi truck buisness we have to do an air to air leak test and most of the specs are you bring it up to 30psi and you shouldnt lose more then 5psi within 15 seconde!! i did this to my alh and actually put 2 in so it can flow more! one at the lowest spot and one at the highest! keep up the awesome work!! you videos are maybe a little boring but i always learn something from them!! :P
jessy6464 Thanks for the info! It's always cool to hear what others do (for a living) and what they do to their cars. "Watching someone work" (by title alone) should suggest a somewhat boring visual experience... I'm a visual learner, if others made videos like I do (point of view), I would watch them all day!
for sure!! totally agree!! if they go and say do this and do that without showing how to do you dont learn much!!
Sorry I'm almost 2 year to the day late with my comment but this speaks volumes on how timeless these videos are. I think this is a great idea Thomas, I was sceptic when I first saw you drilling a hole in the intercooler when the system is pressurized and plugging it with a little screw but like you noted before your beautiful experiment this is minimal in risk vs. an engine risking revving up uncontrollably until it blows up. I think it's great that you take time after your shift of during your lunch to do these test to prove your point. don't let the gremlins comments get to you, none of them understand what you probably see in a week let alone in your career as a mechanic. Keep up the great videos. PS: Seen lots of A4 front wheel bearings on your channel but no rear wheel bearings for A4's. Remember me when you come across a 2005 Jetta with a bad rear bearing. I own a TDI with close to 600,000km and finally the rear bearing has let go. Dry as a bone. LOL Cheers
Hi, thank you for the kind words! Watch this... might help: ruclips.net/video/OExB8sbkwZM/видео.html
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Thanks for the reply. great video again! cheers.
You are a great mechanic I don't know how there could be haters should see some of the experiences I've had with VW mechanic from where I live bought an alh for my girlfriend got it pretty cheap turbo wasn't working the actuator rod it out had a big hole in it buddy put new actuator on and set it my stupidity didn't ask him if he even checked the intercooler for oil he didn't drove it down the road 5 minutes bent a connecting rod had to put new motor in drain your intercoolers buddy knows what he's talking about
Sorry to hear... thank you for sharing your ALH Intercooler experience! Send me your mailing address and I'll send you some of my channel stickers! My email address can be found here:
ruclips.net/user/ExoVCDSabout
Glad I seen this video, I have a new 2nd generation eco 3.5 Ive seen that this can cause problems with the 3.5 overtime, I will investigate my cooler later to see if they might have added a drain plug, But something tells me they have not. Since the engine maker also likes to service and sell parts. I have no problem drilling a small hole for a screw, If something happens to the hole would be easy enough to go one size larger on the screw. But the side wall looks thick enough that one could remove the screw many times with no problems, I can easily drain it myself when I change the oil, no big deal. Thanks
My point exactly! Thank you for watching!
Hey that was an awesome test proves what you've said is verfied & proven nothing like seeing it with your own eyes.👏👏👏
I´ve done it myself in my ALH, in my experience even the small plastic debris got pulled out by the drill bit. If corrosion is a concern use an stainless screw :P Thanks for the tip Thomas.
I dont think there´s a need to blow things up, we never know what may happen, stay safe.
Fernando MMC Thank you for your input and sharing that you have done it yourself! I am worried about how it will blow up... I'm considering putting the intercooler in a metal bin (with my gopro inside the bin) so that the metal bin will catch any flying debris.
***** i've met guys runing 2 - 2.5bar (36 psi) on 1.9 PD TDIs with bigger turbos on daily cars. I dont know what kind of intercoolers they use but probably you will need to raise the pressure higher before something blows :\ Using some sort of metal bin seems a good idea, safety first ;)
Wow this is awesome thanks for this information. This will help me not only save time but also prevent engines from blowing up. I find sometimes oil if build up too much will sneak up in so it takes time to empty it.
I've heard of guys drilling a smaller hole and leaving it open... on the newer diesels, the ones that are prone to intercooler icing, it prevents ice from forming because the water can drain out.
Wow! That is truly amazing stuff. Thomas I believe you more then some of the blogs I read. Your knowledge is awesome. I didn't doubt you. I had questions and in this video you answered them. Not boring, informative. It's a good lesson. Shut off the video before it ends your a fool. Watch and learn. I wish you were my mechanic. Great work as always. Thanks again.
Thank you!
I think Every Turbocharged car owner should "drill that hole " !!!!
Great Video btw !!
klitoni1 Thanks! I would definitely recommend checking for oil if it is an older vehicle (6yrs+). On a side note, I put a turbo on my old car with an intercooler... vented the PCV to atmosphere however. After 7 years of driving, the intercooler looked like brand new inside, not a spec of oil or dirt.
Thank you, awesome and helpful vid
As I have mentioned before, I've done it to mine and there is no ill effect. Even drove in the summer with the screw out of it and no codes for boost leak. I know guys that do this exact drill hole on the MK5/6 TDI air to air intercooler but not because of oil build up. Water build up in the winter.
Thanks for sharing (again)... yes, water build-up on those models is a bigger issue than oil collecting!
Thanks for putting up the videos, as usual. I always watch them.
If one was really concerned of a leak from the screw they could put some RTV or a o-ring on the screw head to be sure it wouldn't have any leaks, or install a air compressor drain cock in the cooler.
Good tip.
Sure, whatever makes one feel better... thanks for the suggestion!
To my brain, drilling and plugging shouldn't negatively affect boost. I drilled (1/8" bit) my ALH with 330,000 km's (likely never drained), about 1/2 a liter+ of oil came out. With the time I saved drilling instead of full disassembly, I was able to de-coke my EGR and top of my intake. I'll do a full clean later (It was plugged solid, again never cleaned by previous owner). My EGR and first 3 inches of intake were packed solid with 3 pencil sized holes through the EGR's coking and maybe a small pinky finger sized hole for the intake to weeze through. Much better now. I didn't want to clean the EGR without draining the oil from the intercooler afterward. Suck hard on a pinched drinking straw in water... then, stop pinching... where did all the water go? :P
I don't recommend cleaning intake while mounted on the car. I just did the top portion about 3 inches in... CAREFULLY with a good shop vac grabbing everything as I slowly scraped it away a little at a time with a screwdriver. Anyway, thanks for the video, hopefully put some minds at ease.
Thank you for sharing your "drain experience" and the tip about how to clean the EGR/ intake with a shop vac! Yes, that would surely have caused a runaway had you not drained it first. Pieces that fall further into the intake will get past the valves and that can cause (if lucky) noise when starting the engine (carbon gets compressed between piston & cylinder head... at worst is could crack a piston.
Well said Thomas!!!! you proven your point in a very concise way...
enricoanton Thank you!
Absolutely brilliant!!! The best way to make a hater shut up.
ehsin sabir Thanks... but I doubt that they will.
nice of you to take your own time out to show how its done, keep drilling them holes👍👌
Thank you for watching!
@@EXOVCDS Hi, i no it was 5 years ago when u did this vid, but i watch all your vids over and over, sure helps me out, i have 09 caddy 1.9 tdi BLS and most things in your vids are the same for the caddy
Did you already check / drain your cooler? Does it have a similar cooler?
@@EXOVCDS no not the same cooler i undo the pipe at the bottom of frontmount/cooler nice and clean for now
Well Thomas I watched it all , was not boring at all, quite interesting as a mater of fact. Kinda got a vibe from the tone of your voice you wanted to rip someone's head off. :) Everything seems logical to me as far as the oil removal is concerned . The amount of normal pressure I assume would never reach the shown tested pressures. May I suggest the use of an automatic drain valve that opens with the loss of ignition that automatically seals once ignition is applied during operation or a manual valve that drains to a catch can if there is available space. Plenty of electromagnetic solenoid type valves available , increased cost compared to a screw but improved and worth the investment for your customers and you to install and be rewarded justly. You know for sure engineering at VW has the wheels turning as well. Just a thought. Take care Steve
Steve Rob Interesting idea and not a bad one either! Though, you can't beat a drill & plug in its simplicity! I drain it while the engine oil pan is draining & am checking tire pressure. DIY'ers can do the same... once they get over the fear of drilling. Hose removal requires extra work and stuffing rags in the opening. To each his own... I just felt that it was time to show the haters that this causes no ill effects. I think one of my viewers recently had a "runaway" with his TDI. Haven't heard much since (he was waiting for tools to continue with the diagnosis), but from how he had explained things, it sounded like this is what happened to him (oil ingestion from the cooler).
+Thomas EXOVCDS I've had a few incidents myself of little rev jumps and often thought about the intercooler oil issue being the cause. I like this method and will do it myself, however why not use a little rubber oring on the screw to stop even that minimal pressure loss?
***** As noted & shown by the gauges... it's not a pressure loss. Pressure loss is not being able to hold pressure (what goes in stays in). Take a close look at your engine intake plumbing and look for signs of oil... are you sealing those areas of "pressure loss" as well?
Good point Thomas! I agree with you :)
great video, thanks for taking time to post and excellent proof of principle. I like the info on a 1/16" hole can be left unplugged...the pressure would continously push out the foreign matter during operation. Combined with a catch can it would be very effective.
No need for a catch can... the intercooler is a catch can.
Just FYI friend. Already had the catch can. .. Had the problem 20 K miles ago, so added a catch can and changed the plugs ( I was afraid to drill the intercooler at that time). Problem came back...so I drilled the 1/16th hole, changed plugs again this time with FORD TB recommended .028 gap. Found one plug with small cracks in porcelain. Not sure what happened, but in my case, the Moroso catch can may not have "caught" enough. Thanks for your response
I'm not familiar with Ford intercoolers and the oil / water issues they have. My intercooler drilling / draining / plugging with a screw is focused on older TDI engines.... to prevent oil from being forced into the intake, which can cause a runaway of the engine / major mechanical damage.
A lot of the big diesel engines I work on have condensation drains engineered into the intake system, a tiny hole that always leaks boost..... you could drill a 0.25mm hole in that cooler and leave it open and not have problems.
Condensation is different from oil collecting. Water draining out constantly does not make a mess like oil. It's better to collect the oil and plug the hole after each drain.
@@EXOVCDS yes I agree, even the condensate drains get oil from them and are collected. Just a comment that it would do no harm to the engine or the way it runs.
Yes, I should have agreed that it was ok to do... but depending on the engine, it can make a mess under the chassis (getting all over while driving) on the driveway at home. Some Ecoboost owners leave the hole open so the condensation can drain all the time (to prevent misfires).
Ok I understand your fix and it makes sense. What about if you are wading in some water. Sinse that hole is on the low point of the intercooler wont you get water ingress into the intercooler and that can go in your engine alsoand lead again to misfire?
mixhael6609 Where in this video or in my other 1200 videos... do I show that I leave the hole OPEN?
I drill a hole to drain oil that collects... AFTER draining I plug the hole with a SCREW.
Did you watch the video? Seriously... did you? Seems like for the majority of people watching this... I waisted 25min of my life making a video to help people save / prevent an engine blow-up due to oil ingestion.
Sorry if my reply seems harsh... it just doesn't make sense to me that I get comments like yours when I explain everything in the video.
Isn't the system normally under positive pressure? How would water get in through a plugged hole in that situation? If it did have a minor leak somehow, you might blow some tiny bubbles in the water and scare a frog but other than that... ?
Catch Can systems prevent the build up as well as coking of intake valves on GDI engines.
They help, but doesn't solve it.
Thanks for the info. Very useful and easy solution to a problem that might cost thousands if not taken care of. (easy & cheap remedy!!) Also dig the science.
Thank you for watching! I still have to try and blow it up one of these days!
You should run a hose from the bottom to a catch can. Then the system is contained and won't leak
Ok.
Just came across this interesting video! I have been thinking about drilling a drain hole in my smic on my mk1 Audi TT Quattro as I’m getting some smoke from that area in the engine bay where the Intercooler is located and also some blue smoke under boost from the exhaust I’m wondering if it’s due to oil burning and being drawn up into the intake turbo etc? Keep up the great work you do🔧👍🏻
Only way to know, is to check how much oil is in the cooler. =)
@@EXOVCDS that’s my next port of call. Thanks man 👍🏻🔧
Love how he addresses the haters
It's the only way they pay attention! LOL
@@EXOVCDS I like it
Just saw this old video and I'm sure I'm not the only one to comment on why he doesn't turn it upside down while drilling to keep any drillings from falling in ,or at least after drilling turn it over and give it a few raps to knock any possible drillings out.. am I being too careful?
Drilling is usually done while the cooler is in the vehicle. It's not an issue in either case... that was the point of the video.
May be local, after seeing the Quad.ca sticker on your toolbox...as I check out the website fairly regularly! At any rate, just picked up a 2016 F150 XLT with the 3.5 Ecoboost, and will be adding the catch-can modification, but found an interest in whether I should try this modification as well. With the ability of adding a screw to fill the hole 'if one wanted to'...it seems like a sensible mod. Just wondering if moisture could be 'introduced' through a hole though, or if it would be negligible? I'm impressed by all the tools and gizmo's you have! Appreciate this, thanks for taking the time for this video...much appreciated!
The ecoboost issue is not the same reason I "drain & plug" the intercoolers on VW engines... not sure why ecoboost folk keep finding my videos. Leaving a small open hole is a "non issue". The reason I plug the coolers, is to prevent oil from dripping on my customers' driveways. Ecoboost engines (from what I gather) have a "condensation" issue... the VW engines collect PCV oil in the coolers. Excessive amounts of oil will result in misfires under load (similar to ecoboost engines) and can even cause diesel engines to runaway & explode... that's why I check / drain the coolers.
@@EXOVCDS it keeps showing up for us because each of us 3.5 EB owners end up searching "intercooler drilling" at some point. I just added a 1/16" weep hole to my 2011, bunch of condensate and oil blew out. Truck runs much smoother now. Deciding on whether I want to drill it out to 1/8" and plug it like in this video and drain every oil change or just leave it open.
Hi Thomas! good video, not boring at all good point,way to go..
Question for you " In order to replace the intercooler is it necessary to remove the front bumper, car in question 2003 ALH"
Thank you.
I believe it can be taken out with bumper in place... but easier with bumper removed. Bumper removal does not take long / is easy... hardest part is attaching the release pull rod when you put the bumper / grill back on.
Wouldn't a small rubber washer added to the small 1/8th inch screw possibly help minimize the bubbles from the boost leak? I know over time the washer would need to be replaced, but as the screw rusts so would the screw. Just a thought, I am no mechanic, but I own a 2003 A4 1.8t and use your vids to work on it. Thanks for all your work man, you are truly brilliant.
Taylor Anthony You can use whatever you wish to help seal it further... my point was that there is no need to worry about a "boost" leak. Although these bubbles indicate an air leak, I honestly can't categorize them as being one... compared to when a hose clamp is loose (as an example).
I wonder if you use a metal roof screw that has the rubber gasket built in if that would seal it.
FishFind3000 Anything that plugs the hole will work.
Can you just take the inter cooler off periodically to clean it? And if so, how can you achieve that? I saw someone rinsing it out with water…
You can do whatever you feel comfortable with. Drilling, draining and plugging is the quickest, cheapest & safest way to go. There are many DIY step-by-step articles that can be found on how to clean coolers. Sadly, the cooler will get dirty / oily again, no matter how clean you can get it.
I leave the 2 mm hole open *all* the time; if i see oil on the ground... turbo problem...then i might plug it with a screw,and drain and monitor things from there; a run-away engine might kill you,and the 2 mm hole prevents that(and still,NOT always enough,you'd need an open 5 or 6 mm hole for that!).
Nobody listens to or reads what I post in my videos... all of my "oil draining" videos of intercoolers are of TDI diesel engines. 99% of the oil that collects in those coolers is oil from the PCV. I too blew up an engine because of oil that was in the cooler... it was a TDI diesel engine.... THATS why I drain the coolers. It's NOT an issue on 95% of TURBO GASOLINE engines. Only on the 5% that have a similar cooler design where OIL CAN COLLECT.
Hi Thomas ,this is an excellence demo and actually I'm doing the same stuff which collecting quite a bite of engine oil out, good show ! I'm your fan.
Peter Yeung Thank you for sharing your experience with this procedure, and thanks for watching!
This simply genius. Quick and effective.
Michael Beckett Just using a similar procedure that's listed in the service manuals... I should have added some smoke from my smoke machine, maybe when I blow it up!
Seems like a safe, well thought out improvement. Not sure why people take such issue with this. Almost like these people have never seen the rock hard carbon crap in an intake that the engine can/does ingest on occasion.
I think that's exactly the point... they just don't know! Thanks for you input / thoughts!
An intercooler should almost always have positive pressure. Nothing else should get in, unless you park it near water and the water rises and it gets into that hole. But there is always going to be a "what if".
I plug the hole... why does everyone think that I leave the hole unplugged?
With the screw removed, I wonder if it even leaks enough to be an issue...
Correct! I took a car on a test drive with the screw removed... no boost code set and no real difference between specified & actual boost. I really don't understand how people can get so freaked out about a screw in the cooler.
You never notice it being out except for at the pump, we tested a few and all of them lost at least 2mpg, mainly because with the screw out it's always under boost because you essentially have a pretty good leak, put a screw in it and move on
Nice science project. Thanks, but from all the info I have bee able to gather on the net, it appears with drilling a 1/16th hole you do not have to plug the hole as there appears to be no, or very minimal loss of boost. Just leave the drain hole open.
Makes for a messy driveway... oil will drip out. I would recommend plugging. Thank you for watching!
Great work! Thanks for the thoroughness and detail!
Thank you for watching!
Very nice video much appreciated when do you know this is a problem I have a 2014 EcoBoost F150 48000 MI it seems to be running fine I am wondering if I should drill it anyway as a precaution? I appreciate any feedback
I don't have any EcoBoost experience. My intercooler drilling, draining & plugging tutorials are specific to VW 1.8T & 1.9L TDI engines (oil accumulates over time). From what I have heard, EcoBoost engines have condensation issues. Drilling & leaving a hole to allow water to drain, sounds like a good idea and worth doing (symptom or not)... as a preventive measure.
@@EXOVCDS I appreciate the help I will try and figure out how to do that I did install jlt oil separator thank you much for the reply
If you draw a 8-in hole in the inner core how do you get the shavings out
This was for demonstration. The cooler is no longer used.
@@EXOVCDS when I drilled my cooler I put grease around the drill
The oem guys would do this if we didn't have the EPA. Chances are they were the one to recommend this before any of us knew we could do it.
Draining into a bucket and disposing of the waste oil should not get anyone into trouble with the EPA.... I plug the hole after I drain.
Your videos are the best.
Very kind of you to say, thank you! Thank you for watching!
Hello, why is this such an issue on this engine...very curious? I’ve had a dozen Saab’s,Volvos and Vw with no know issue...what is so unique to this design that it’s problsmatic?
Time... A4 / mk4 VWs are up to 18 years old now. PCV fumes collect at the base of the intercooler. If the vehicle is only used for short distance stop & go driving, the oil will never get carried out of the cooler... that's why it collects. Other intercooler / intake designs don't have an area where oil will / can collect.
Heard alot of isses without a drain.Nice job (NOT a hater). Maybe threading the hose connector would have secured it better?
Thanks
Just needs to be checked / drained at every oil change to monitor turbo & PCV condition... and to prevent engine damage. Simple. =)
Thanks for watching!
Merci beaucoup pour cette video vous êtes professionnels. Continuez bravo
Merci!
joyeux Noel et bonne année
i just put a small 32nd hole in the bottom of mine, no screw no noticeable boost variance. never any oil accumulation. also keeps system cleaner
Thanks for sharing! ALH TDI? Any oil drips when parked? I can't believe all the people that worry / think that it will cause a boost leak. LOL
Thomas EXOVCDS yes you can put catch can under car. all my diesels have some leak somewhere in ic lines with regards to oil squeezing between fittings. the map sensor will notice MINISCULE drop in boost and compensate thru ecu to boost actuator thru n75 to keep boost on vnt sustained at higher level to make up for ity bity leak. yez thez armchair mechanics r the cats meow huh. dont let them get to you. good job btw. and for those out there, no you wont overwork the turbo.
OK this is what I did on my 2014 3.5 eco... use a self tapper (the screw if you don't know) and after draining the intercooler screw it back in. It threads itself, and is reusable. Yeah draining the intercooler is a minor inconvenience but it was over-engineered and it does keep that air cold. Luckily for me barely anything ever came out (I live in far Northern California it's not humid here on those 112 degree summers 60 degree winters). A factory drain valve would have been too smart. Overall the only issue I had on my Eco is the MAP sensors getting dirty and it dying at random. Dirty MAP sensors produce the same issues that a flooded intercooler does (stuttering) but then it kills itself and goes into limp mode until its restarted.
->If the MAP sensors get dirty (there's 2) - just clean them with MAS sensor cleaner, re-install and clear/reset the computer then idle the vehicle idle for 10min from cold to re-train the TPS on the throttle body. (check spark plugs while you in there) Mine ran into this issue (dying constantly with wrench in the dashboard screen and no error codes). Runs like it was new again. I never realized how complex these systems are now, and how it also effected shifting as well. Everything is synchronized so perfectly.
Thanks for your DIY feedback! Yeah... s simple self tapping screw is what I use / that's all it needs.
Great video as always..by the way i made a hole in my cooler 6 months ago when i first saw your video...and the car works great, perfect..i put a screw and a o ring and never had single problem...i have to say thomas since i found your channel i can honestly say i've learned many great tips regarding alh engines...same engine as the asv one..by the way i wanted to know if in your service are any vw polo 6n2 cars..i bought a 2001 1.4 vw polo and i wonder if you encountered any ?...
Andrei Ailoaie Thank you for sharing your drilling & draining experience! We don't have Polo's here in North America, but I can get service information if you ever need any... just send me a message via youtube or my email (on my website).
I watched a bunch of videos here on my stutter/misfire issues with my 2014 f150 3.5 L w/ecoboost while accelerating hard to pass. The issues started to show last spring and occasionally after that, always in high humidity. Last week it got so bad it threw the check engine light and code p0303 (misfire cyl 3) and put the truck in the limp mode. I drilled a 3/32 hole in the driver's side bottom near where you did and got about 1/4 cup of oil out. I also changed the plugs that were fouled, out of gap and #3 was cracked and had carbon tracking. I did not plug the hole as the other guys didn't either. Test run after warmed up to simulate a full throttle passing action. It was like new again and had full power. My question is, where is that oil coming from? Why is the engine oil leaking in there or is that just a normal thing for intercoolers? You would think they would incorporate a drain port.
PCV oil in the intake is normal... depending on intake design, some intercoolers collect more than normal amounts of oil. Too much oil is a sign of possible engine or turbo issues.
@@EXOVCDS thanks, at 75k miles I don't think 1/4 cup is too bad I guess. I was reading on others that ford has been playing with different air dams to keep the air from condensing when its humid, but won't admit to a problem.
You need a sharper bit with a pilot tip for plastic brother!
I'm glad that was your only concern! =)
Thanks for your info, keep up the good work.
Big fan here..
Anyone with any mechanical merit can see the merit in this hack 👍🏻
Thanks, but not a hack... logical, quick & easy way to monitor for excessive oil in the cooler. =)
Hello i'm not the best in english but can i keep the hole open? And if not how often i need to remove that screw for drainage?
You can keep it open... but it will leak oil and the oil will get on everything under the car while you are driving. I would plug it with a screw and check / drain it at every oil change (once a year).
@@EXOVCDS ok thanks buddy
I changed my engine oil 6000 km ago with 5w40..today i checked the level and it needs to fe filled up..can i use 10w40 if i respect the VW 505.00 norm?..maybe it won't go down so fast if i increase the viscosity
Andrei Ailoaie How low on the dipstick / how much oil? What year & engine? Some engines are very specific to 5W30 or 5W40, going away from that might not be good... I don't know if 5 points will make a difference (5w to 10w) in oil usage or engine performance ... you can try. Have a look in the following forum / post a question there (lots of very smart people there)!
www.bobistheoilguy.com/
This popped up in my recommendations right after the live stream tonight. I had no idea that this was so controversial. Responding to the inter-cooler 1/8" drain hole haters. WTF! Well done sir. Not much doubt after seeing this. For the extremists, put a dab of sealant on the screw before putting it in to seal up that .010 boost leak! haha The average guy installing a turbo couldn't even come close to sealing up a turbo install this well. New ideas take time to catch on Thomas, before long everybody will be doing this so you can feel good.
Most turbo engines don't have this type of issue.. I check turbo gasoline engine intercoolers as well, they fare better and when they show excessive oil... it's usually the turbo that's the cause. I vent the PCV to atmosphere on my Turbo E34, that way I know that any oil in the cooler has to be from the turbo.
I've heard that the turbo is usually the cause. I have to remember that you're dealing with the PCV oil on the TDI's. I should look into the configuration of that system to better understand. Hey, you'd better get to sleep. Need you sharp as a tack for tomorrows live chat! Thanks!
Gasoline engines have PCV oil in the intercooler as well... but not as much. Eliminating the PCV / venting it can help determine which the source of the oil is.
I have 15 3.5 ecoboost, its on limp mode with check engine light, if i would to drill the hole and take to ford service will that have consequences upon them telling me that i need a new cooler? Is ot better to just drain than making a hole?
ponce60 I have no experience with Ford ecoboost engines. The oil problem that I am showing in my videos is different from the water issues that the ecoboost engines have.
dosent the tdi have the shudder valve to stop runaway, or was you not talking about a vag when you said about your experience with diesel runaway?
also off subject..... what does a ti do with excess boost when coming off the throttle, a petrol has a diverter valve, so where does a tdi dump its excess boost??
Shudder valve only helps when there is no fuel... there's no throttle plate, so any remaining boost just goes into the cylinders. Also, the variable nozzle turbo fins open to slow turbo spool when the foot is taken off of the gas pedal.
ok, but if its running away on oil say from a faulty turbo seal or over time oil build up in the intercooler the shut off valve on the intake cuts air supply shutting the runaway down no???
thanks for your reply, love your channel man!
+andrew page The valve only closes for 1 to 2 seconds and then opens again... you would have to hold it shut manually. By the time the runaway starts, you do not have time to stop the car, open the hood & hold it closed till the engine stops... without causing damage. A small runaway without damage is possible, but even then, parts get stressed due to the uncontrolled combustion & rev limit.
How does the oil get in there in the first place? Curious here. TY
PCV fumes & turbo bearing / bushing seepage.
@@EXOVCDS Got it thanks.
really nice work...you make me caring about my intercooler
Just check it at every oil change. =)
the fix is to install a oil Catch can so the crank case oil vapor is caught for draining later
The intercooler already does a good job of catching the oil... that's why I drain it.
😂 it's not supposed to, leads to premature boot failure(more boost leaks) and will eventually cause valves to fail with excessive build up
Pcv oil is a normal occurrence in the intercooler. Driving habits (stop & go city driving) is what causes oil to collect more than normal.
Would this be beneficial to do on a 2018 Diesel Mercedes 3500 DUELLY Van used for commercial transport????
I'm not familiar with the design of the charge system (air ducting from turbo to intercooler and onward to the intake manifold) for this engine. Monitoring for oil in the intake / charge system is worth doing... more so on older engines / vehicles that have had time to collect oil in the system. If there is an easily accessible "low spot" in the air charge ducting... check for oil in that area at every oil change, so you can keep track of / monitor for increases in oil (which can be a sign of turbo or PCV issue).
Can you leave the hole open what should I put a screw in it
A small 1/8" / 3mm hole can be left open, but it will leave oil on the floor wherever you park. Plug the hole with a small screw... after draining the cooler.
@@EXOVCDS I see a little oil on the spoiler when I get done driving it to work
@RonnieYoung-zx8wu
Some intercooler have a problem with condensing water / water collecting in the cooler. The result is similar to oil collecting... can cause misfires during acceleration.
Last year I've clean the EGR valve and intake manifold, but few weeks ago I've observed that on EGR valve, intake manifold, vacuum pump and vacuum lines is a lot of oil, and I was thinking that the intercooler is responsible for that. Thanks to your videos, I`ve just drain the oil from my ALH intercooler and the colected amount of oil was around 50 ml. It is possible that the oil from the vacuum lines and vacuum pump to come from another source?
The intercooler coolects oil from the PCV & the turbo. Odds are that 99% of the oil is from the PCV (valve cover breather valve). This is normal... You can replace the PCV breather valve with a new one, odds are that it is not functioning 100%. If oil is coming out of the small hoes on the side of the EGR, replace the EGR. To check the turbo, remove the inlet hose at the turbo and move the compressor shaft... should have no wiggle / free-play.
Thomas EXOVCDS thank you for the answers, I will check all the parts you mentioned to see what is (are) the broken parts..
Keep in mind... it's normal to have oil (from the PCV) in the intake system... 50ml is not much.
Ok I understand... I will tell you later if there was a problem with PCV valve, EGR valve or turbo... Thank you for your answers...
Do you ever find you need to do this on the AHU diesels? I am at 356,000 miles and never did this.
I check all upright mounted coolers... we don't see too many AHU's anymore, but if I remember correctly, the last one I drained had a little oil in it. Again, a little is perfectly normal.
Hello Thomas EXOVCDS, I would have a question to you. What do you say, is it a good idea (I know the answer, but still) to remove the intercooler and clean it with petrol, or oil dissolver solution? The idea is to have all the oil "deposits" removed from the pipes and therefore better cooling of air and of course flow of it. What do you say? Also if I use petrol (as degreaser) would make some damage to some part of intercooler (o-rings, rubber sealings etc) or would be just easier to replace it with a new one? Would this cleanig matter in cars performance? Does it worth to do this. I had to replace the turbo, I just want to be sure that no "bad/angry particles" are in the air pipes, so could damage the new turbo. Hope I was clear what I'm thing on. AND MANY THANKS for your vieos. Regards
I would only clean it if there was a possibility of turbo parts (compressor wheel / metal shavings etc) being in the intake system due to a turbo failure... so yes, it is better to clean it. Soapy water or degreaser spray & then flush with water should all be all that it needs. On an engine that has no turbo failure or any other type of mechanical issue that could cause debris to get into the cooler... I would not worry about cleaning the cooler. Just draining the oil is enough maintenance.
WRONG! Oily intercooler tubes lose the capacity to transfer heat well. Air temp at engine inlet goes up and not only engine looses power with a less dense air charge, but more importantly, oil droplets REDUCE effective octane number of the fuel and constitute pre-ignition points in the combustion chamber, and to add insult to injury, the oil leaves carbon deposits inside the combustion chamber and piston top, reducing combustion chamber volume and raising compression ratio too much. And almost all of the oil comes from the damn PCV system from badly designed, inefficient PCV valves. Turbo experts have known that an efficient "CATCH-CAN" that can trap the oil mist before the Intercooler is badly needed, specially in Turbo and supercharged engines that have more blow-by than lesser powered normally aspirated engines. Very few engines have PROPERLY designed Catch-Cans. Another thing with the Intercooler design that you show in your video, is that the end tanks were incorrectly designed, as their geometry precludes a good flow over all the tubes (the inlet tank has more flow area in one end, and the outlet tank AGAIN allow more flow IN THE SAME TUBES... a better design has the inlet diagonally opposed to the outlet, so that ALL the tubes share roughly the same flow. This happens because factory design engineers put convenience above proper design for flow.
+Alfredo Márquez I don't see the point in pointing out that you are smarter than everyone.
This video is about draining the oil out of the intercooler and the reason why I do it.
Yes, a catch can would be better... but that's not what the video is about.
A simple drain of the oil at every oil change is cheaper than the cost & installation of a good catch can system.
Engines have been running for 100 years with no catch can. Just because something can be added to an engine, doesn't mean that it has to be.
Szilard B I
Just did this to mine, thanks man
I just a self taping screw
Thanks for sharing... how much oil came out? Year of car & which engine?
hola , donde as comprado esas tapas
Although I appreciate every video you have done. It's helped me a ton when I first got into TDI vws. But don't be lazy and drill a hole. Spend the extra half hr and take out the intercooler and charge pipes and clean them all that way. And if you do drill a hole...put a drain valve on. Dont leave it sloppy with a screw
Although I appreciate you watching and commenting... don't let your overthinking get to you. A screw in the hole is all that is needed. I do the draining for free for my customers. They don't get charged for this "extra service". Your method is fine for DIY'ers who have extra time on their hands. By the time I finish checking tire pressure, the draining has stopped and I plug the hole. There is NOTHING ELSE that makes more sense, than those 5 minutes of work (drilling, draining, plugging)... compared to blowing an engine because too much oil was in the cooler. If I hadn't posted a video about this "issue"... would you be aware of it? How many other channels do you watch where you get info like this? Do the other channels answer / reply to all questions like I do? Do they get criticism for not helping? If I posted a video of how to remove the cooler for cleaning, how many comments do you think I would get, saying stuff like: way too much work, why don't you just soak it up with a rag in the cooler opening, why don't you install a catch can. 5min is all it takes to do what I do. Post a video of how to do it correctly... I'll be the first to comment!
@@EXOVCDS I do have a catch can on all 3 of my diesel vehicles. You know it's very simple to do any 99% of diyers can do it. My thought was what happens to the screw for us that run tuned cars with over 25 psi. Not that debris will likely get in there, but the possibility of a boost leak and possibly cracking around the whole if someone overboosts
Again, you are overthinking things... but like I said, DIY'ers can do what they want, since they have all the time they need. I record while I am "working" on customer's car... time is money. 5 Min is all it takes.
1:10 oh so it was a turbo diesel then? A gasoline engine will not run away like a diesel engine sucking in oil from a bad turbo seal (or whatnot) and using it as fuel. A gasoline engine requires spark to run away, especially the modern engines that you use. My father's 427 SB chevy would have a sort of issue (mainly not turning off when he quit the ignition) but that is no where near what a run away is.
ThorOtheBIG Correct... a gasoline engine will not runaway, but damage can still occur. Run-on after a shut down is due to timing, carbon buildup & fuel... hot carbon ignites fuel.
very good work. i admire your patience with the doubters. ich würde mir auch nicht zu viel dabei denken, wenn leute im internet etwas kommentieren von dem sie offensichtlich keine ahnung haben. ist leider meistens die regel (meiner bescheidenen meinung nach;)). ich wünsche noch eine gute zeit. have a nice time.
Paul Grottel Thanks! Ich denk mir nur noch... LMAA! :)
Great vid......enjoyed all the information that was given.
1hlyGOD Thank you!
Hi Thomas.
What can we use to clean an intercooler? Are there any products that are recommended/not recommended? Soap and water?
I've got a 1.6 T-GDI and was running without catch cans for about 10,000 miles... would like to know that my intercooler is clean before driving it further. Peace of mind, really.
Thank you.
Kyle N Stacey Soap & water is fine... brake clean, MAF cleaner etc
Thomas EXOVCDS
Thanks for the quick reply.
CLR too abrasive?
Whatever works... I only "wash / clean" coolers when debris is in them. Otherwise draining the oil is all that is needed. There will always be a film of oil in the cooler (PVC fumes), so it's not necessary to have them sparkle clean.
Roger that. Thank you very much for your awesome/informative video! Let the haters hate as they do best! Drilled my EB 3.5 yesterday and put on a UPR Dual Catch Can system. Will drain intercooler every 5k. What's your take on Wagner IC v/ Ford stock? Thanks again!!!
What is the screw number that was placed?
A little bit bigger than the hole.
I totally understand why you would do this, and it DOES work. But, a catchcan would be best option here.
Crossing an intersection at the crosswalk is the safest thing to do... everyone knows it. Jaywalking is done because it saves time. I get the catch can mind set... I just don't think I need to be reminded of it constantly.
No oil is released into the environment. The hole is plugged with a screw. The oil I drain gets recycled.
Lol Subaru puts them on top for this very reason, most of the oil will just slowly get burned. Oil in every intercooler I have ever taken off. From 3k cars to 200k cars. Couldn't imagine a high mileage Diesel engine!
The key is to be aware of it and checking it... and doing something about it.
Hey Thomas, What kind of screw are you using?
The kind that fits the 1/8" hole... bulk screw from home depot.
What size of bolt you reccomend?
+Francis Théroux One that fits into the 1/8" hole... can be found at your local Hardware / Home Depot store. Or send me a sticker and I will send you a "screw" that will fit (with one of my stickers). ruclips.net/video/2rN_rX5M-k8/видео.html
Drilled mine in the same place on my 2016 F-150, pink thin fluid came out, is this coolant??
You drilled the wrong part. =(
Thomas EXOVCDS now I’m at autozone trying to find some way to plug this... in very sad
If you drilled the radiator you want to replace it.
Excelent as always Thomas! Good proof of concept i wonder if i can do it on a mkv intercooler since turbo seals are failing mine
alex cristian The mk5 sits fairly flat... I had some oil come out once when I removed the outlet hose. Maybe just do that at every oil service.
oh alright i could jack up the other corner of the car to so oil flows to the open side
not trying to step on any toes just want it fixed right,so I don''t have more problems down the road
Problem isn't why you're doing it, it's how.
I don't mind taking an extra twenty minutes to pull it out and put it in to drain and flush mine without drilling it.
Mightn't be as easy, but I'm not lazy so it's ok.
Thank you for watching!
1/8" hole and what screw do I use? Where do I get the screws?
Any screw that fits / seals the hole... hardware store.
hey I think I would take the advice from somebody who spent 25 minutes making a video demonstrating it over some people in the comments saying "haha boost leak"
Thanks... I saved another engine last week (first time customer, cooler was never checked / drained before... 16 years old). Oil in the cooler is a ticking time bomb. Just a matter of time till it gets forced up into the engine. The cooler is a great "catch can"... people need to treat it as such and start checking it at every oil change! =)