I have got to wonder why they didn't paint the internal part of the sill (or any other internal panel) when the cars were built, as we all know they rust of from the inside. Bet it was due to cost/time. Was weld through primer not available back then? Gr8 work, look forward to next video.
Love the jacking point. Can you show us your method of reconstructing the inner jacking point support. I'm about to tackle the hz ute and it's a half round flange that disappears like a cone.. I've done a couple before but I'm never happy with the look I get.
Nice work, very informative, can i ask though where the sill panel meets the dog leg, the factory 2mm or so gap between panels would you push a bit of seam sealer into the back of it but still leaving the vertical line visible or is it kept open as a 20mm or so deep gap? if you know what i mean.
@@TheRestoShed makes sense thanks mate, i have the similar repair coming up but on a tonner, no dog leg i know but where the sill meets at the bottom of cab will be similar.
The sill turned out mint top job, Have you ever thought about making them up and selling them ? I have to do a inner sill and outer But I have no idea how you go about getting the inner out Do you have to cut the Scuff plates off to get to it
I haven’t, no. Inner sills are a bit more complex to fit as they go underneath the pillars and join onto the floor pan. Big job if you do a full replacement. Most cases you should be able to get away with a patch up.
@@TheRestoShed Unfortunately mine are totally gone big windows nice view all the way through back in the hayday you would’ve just dumped the car, it’s just one of those cars where you don’t know where to start and where to stop I’d love to have a chat with you over the phone
Thanks dude, I got an in and outer set, looks like the inner is a lot more work but I have to do it as both are gone, the set I got for the drivers was to long, the guy said it was cut to length, my ass it is, anyway, I got the passenger side a long time ago with the rear dimple in it, the new one from retro spares doesn't have it, I'm not happy with their stuff.
Thanks Gary that would have to be the most informative videos I’ve ever seen 👍
Thank you Gary
Very helpful Gary. What a great result. I was going to patch mine but after seeing what was behind yours. I will do the same. Looks brilliant. 👌👌👍
Fantastic work mate, I like the idea of getting your own panel folded up
Definitely agree with tackling the sill unpicking that way, we usually cut away the bulk and work the edges last when you have easy access.
Nice work!
Thanks mate!
Nice work! Looks mint
Doing the whole sill is definitely wurth wild
Love your work man 🤌🤌
Thanks mate!
Loving your work mate..Is really helping me with my resto. Cheers mate
Thanks for watching
I have got to wonder why they didn't paint the internal part of the sill (or any other internal panel) when the cars were built, as we all know they rust of from the inside. Bet it was due to cost/time.
Was weld through primer not available back then?
Gr8 work, look forward to next video.
Car manufacturers wouldn’t sell any new cars if they all lasted 🤣
No weld through primers back then either.
New videos up every Friday night 😉👍🏼
Love the jacking point. Can you show us your method of reconstructing the inner jacking point support. I'm about to tackle the hz ute and it's a half round flange that disappears like a cone.. I've done a couple before but I'm never happy with the look I get.
Been a while since I remade one. Last one I did in 2 pieces and constructed it out of 1.6mm steel. Turned out looking good in the end.
Nice work, very informative, can i ask though where the sill panel meets the dog leg, the factory 2mm or so gap between panels would you push a bit of seam sealer into the back of it but still leaving the vertical line visible or is it kept open as a 20mm or so deep gap? if you know what i mean.
That join will get seam sealer applied to it after epoxy.
@@TheRestoShed makes sense thanks mate, i have the similar repair coming up but on a tonner, no dog leg i know but where the sill meets at the bottom of cab will be similar.
Put grommets in the holes in sill, to stop the sand ingress.
Going to weld them up when the car is back on the rotisserie
The sill turned out mint top job, Have you ever thought about making them up and selling them ? I have to do a inner sill and outer But I have no idea how you go about getting the inner out Do you have to cut the Scuff plates off to get to it
I haven’t, no.
Inner sills are a bit more complex to fit as they go underneath the pillars and join onto the floor pan. Big job if you do a full replacement. Most cases you should be able to get away with a patch up.
@@TheRestoShed Unfortunately mine are totally gone big windows nice view all the way through back in the hayday you would’ve just dumped the car, it’s just one of those cars where you don’t know where to start and where to stop I’d love to have a chat with you over the phone
Hi what thickness steel do you use for your patches ?
1.6mm as per factory on a sill panel.
Can't buy skill.
Thanks
Thanks dude, I got an in and outer set, looks like the inner is a lot more work but I have to do it as both are gone, the set I got for the drivers was to long, the guy said it was cut to length, my ass it is, anyway, I got the passenger side a long time ago with the rear dimple in it, the new one from retro spares doesn't have it, I'm not happy with their stuff.