Get the online service manual for your car to guide you through all your repairs EmanualOnline ----> shrsl.com/4nbut Use coupon ONETRICKTECH22 for 22% off site wide
This is the best video I have seen yet on the rear brake replacement for a Cruze. Mine need replacing badly (this week job) and for what they charge for all 4 wheels brake job (around $1000 in Canada) I am looking at $240 for parts which is a bargain.
Good video and tools list! Got the rear brake pads and rotors replaced in about 90 minutes thanks to your video. Less than $100 invested. Will tackle the fronts in a few days.
@@alexrepizo6605you don’t actually have to put it back on, all it’s for is to hold the rotor on the assembly line, put a lug nut snug to hold the rotor while you work. Easier
Thank you so much for this! I am planning on doing my first ever rear pad and rotor change and this video was super helpful! My brake rotors looked very similar to yours all rough & gauged, but I only have 20k miles on there and they vibrate a lot! Is that also why you changed yours?
You got lucky with the t30 bolt. I've changed my brakes several times on my cruze, and those bolts all freeze up or strip and eventually i need to punch em out or someting lol.
Thanks so much for posting this! Just did it on my 2016 Cruze and my only issue was that T30 Torx screw, it backed out a few turns and snapped on one side and on the other I had to finish getting it out with vice grips. I also had a tough time turning the caliper piston back in with needle nose, I had to use channel locks and be careful not to nick the rubber boot. Next time I might see if I can buy the special tool or borrow it from my local auto parts store. Either way, mission accomplished and lots of money saved. Thank you!
I always work the brackets thoroughly to remove the rust in the slots the stainless shims seat. I use a file and even a small cut-off wheel in a dremel or a die grinder to gently knock the rust off to where it is down to a flat metal surface. A little black rustoleum spray paint slows down the return of rust. The 2017 I am working on had pad material on all four corners yet the rotors were rusted away because the pads were frozen in the caliper from the rust in the brackets. Mind you, I'm deep in the rust belt so your mileage may vary. Good video.
Thank you for the useful video, it definitively saved me some time. Just one small improvement, instead of vise-grip pliers, I used a 17mm open ended wrench to prevent the caliper "slides" to rotate while removing or re-installing.
Thanks for the video - all the essential info ! I would suggest further discussion on the Rotor Screw. It appears that some screws may be a T-27 bit vs a T-30. Replacing the screw with a stainless steel screw - but have not found the exact replacement - could be an M6 25mm flathead but not Torx. Replacement steel screws are widely available - costing about $5 each from Chevy. If necessary when the screw strips, recommend drilling out with a 3/8" high quality 135 degree tip (self centering), Cobalt Jobber (5" long) Drill - about $7 each (suggest Republic (US) or Hertel. Drilling out should be limited to just the screw head, after which grabbing the stub with vise grips, turning the stub INTO the hub first to loosen the threads, then working it back out with liquid wrench. If the screw is really old, bet on it snapping as it's a through screw and the end is open to the elements beyond the hub. Also suggest covering bolt torque valves, replacement of bolts and use of Loctite 272 Blue or Red on Caliper Bracket Bolts. Cruztalk at (www.cruzetalk.com/) has related discussion. Chevy recommends replacing the bolts - which come with Loctite already applied. Suggest covering the torque values for the Caliper Bracket Bolts (74 ft lbs) (file:///C:/Users/Expert%20User/Desktop/Chevrolet%20Cruze%20Repair%20Manual_%20Front%20Brake%20Rotor%20Replacement%20-%20Additional%20links.html). Also recommend covering torque valve for the Brake Caliper bolts (21 ft lbs). But torque values and installation technique are HIGHLY dependent on brake type. Torqueing to Yield (TTY) is a very important topic when repairing Cruze brakes that must be fully understood to properly replace these brakes. Buying a cheap Brake Caliper Wind Back Tool Kit - $13 for set - to turn and retract the piston - might make the job a bit easier. Some kits come with both clockwise and counter clockwise retractors.
The rotor screw appears to be a Trox M6 x 20mm. Both Lowe's and HD may have the SS screw in stock, but with a hex (Allen key) head. Otherwise available on the web for less than $10 for 50, possibly 100 pcs.
Its a Milwaukee cordless ratchet. I have a link for it in the video description. They make cheaper ones too, just search cordless ratchet on amazon and you will find inexpensive ones.
I pulled them and cleaned and greased them anyways. Watched both your front and rear videos, and got the job done with no troubles. Thanks a lot for the walk through!
1:53 you do not have a faster way, especially if the brakes have any sort of resistance from heat and age. If you do brakes at all frequently, just go buy the tool from one of the many stores that sells them cheap.
Compared to Toyota, Chevy design their cars in weird ways just to make DIY servicing them that much more of a hassle. Many of Holden’s later model cars in Australia are actually Chevrolet.
Get the online service manual for your car to guide you through all your repairs
EmanualOnline ----> shrsl.com/4nbut
Use coupon ONETRICKTECH22 for 22% off site wide
This is the best video I have seen yet on the rear brake replacement for a Cruze. Mine need replacing badly (this week job) and for what they charge for all 4 wheels brake job (around $1000 in Canada) I am looking at $240 for parts which is a bargain.
Good video and tools list! Got the rear brake pads and rotors replaced in about 90 minutes thanks to your video. Less than $100 invested. Will tackle the fronts in a few days.
What was the screw you need ?
@@alexrepizo6605you don’t actually have to put it back on, all it’s for is to hold the rotor on the assembly line, put a lug nut snug to hold the rotor while you work. Easier
@@frznXIII Totally agree, with the wheel on the rotor is not going anywhere and a lug nut will hold the rotor during the job.
Wow they really made it easy to change the brakes on these I have a 2017 and it’s due
Thank you for this video. The way prices of everything are going up, it’s going to a lot of DIYs for me 😂
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you, This explains why the stupid cylinder wouldn't depress. Didn't know I had to twist it to get it back in. Thanks again
Wow didn't know had to twist and push in caliper glad I watched the video thanks
Thank you so much for this! I am planning on doing my first ever rear pad and rotor change and this video was super helpful! My brake rotors looked very similar to yours all rough & gauged, but I only have 20k miles on there and they vibrate a lot! Is that also why you changed yours?
yea once the rotors look like that they vibrate and chew the pads up, then it makes lost of noise.
Good luck on your first rear brake job!!
Best tutorial I've seen! Thanks you for the help
You got lucky with the t30 bolt. I've changed my brakes several times on my cruze, and those bolts all freeze up or strip and eventually i need to punch em out or someting lol.
This video saved me a bunch of money. Thanks for posting.
You're welcome man. Love to hear that!
What do you do about brake fluid pressure when you are pressing the piston back in? Or is there any? First time doing brakes on my cruze coming up
Thanks so much for posting this! Just did it on my 2016 Cruze and my only issue was that T30 Torx screw, it backed out a few turns and snapped on one side and on the other I had to finish getting it out with vice grips. I also had a tough time turning the caliper piston back in with needle nose, I had to use channel locks and be careful not to nick the rubber boot. Next time I might see if I can buy the special tool or borrow it from my local auto parts store. Either way, mission accomplished and lots of money saved. Thank you!
Glad to hear you got it done! Awesome, you're welcome!
I always work the brackets thoroughly to remove the rust in the slots the stainless shims seat. I use a file and even a small cut-off wheel in a dremel or a die grinder to gently knock the rust off to where it is down to a flat metal surface. A little black rustoleum spray paint slows down the return of rust.
The 2017 I am working on had pad material on all four corners yet the rotors were rusted away because the pads were frozen in the caliper from the rust in the brackets. Mind you, I'm deep in the rust belt so your mileage may vary.
Good video.
What you described is the BEST way to do it! I started using file too recently, game changer!
Excelente video! Felicitaciones!
Nice vid. You make it look so easy!
Great video, went exactly the way it showed!
Thank you for the useful video, it definitively saved me some time.
Just one small improvement, instead of vise-grip pliers, I used a 17mm open ended wrench to prevent the caliper "slides" to rotate while removing or re-installing.
Great video. Quick question. Does the bracket needs to come off if you’re only replacing brake pads?
Just for pads no need to take it off, but it's easier to clean when its off.
Thanks for the video - all the essential info ! I would suggest further discussion on the Rotor Screw. It appears that some screws may be a T-27 bit vs a T-30. Replacing the screw with a stainless steel screw - but have not found the exact replacement - could be an M6 25mm flathead but not Torx. Replacement steel screws are widely available - costing about $5 each from Chevy. If necessary when the screw strips, recommend drilling out with a 3/8" high quality 135 degree tip (self centering), Cobalt Jobber (5" long) Drill - about $7 each (suggest Republic (US) or Hertel. Drilling out should be limited to just the screw head, after which grabbing the stub with vise grips, turning the stub INTO the hub first to loosen the threads, then working it back out with liquid wrench. If the screw is really old, bet on it snapping as it's a through screw and the end is open to the elements beyond the hub.
Also suggest covering bolt torque valves, replacement of bolts and use of Loctite 272 Blue or Red on Caliper Bracket Bolts. Cruztalk at (www.cruzetalk.com/) has related discussion. Chevy recommends replacing the bolts - which come with Loctite already applied. Suggest covering the torque values for the Caliper Bracket Bolts (74 ft lbs) (file:///C:/Users/Expert%20User/Desktop/Chevrolet%20Cruze%20Repair%20Manual_%20Front%20Brake%20Rotor%20Replacement%20-%20Additional%20links.html). Also recommend covering torque valve for the Brake Caliper bolts (21 ft lbs). But torque values and installation technique are HIGHLY dependent on brake type. Torqueing to Yield (TTY) is a very important topic when repairing Cruze brakes that must be fully understood to properly replace these brakes.
Buying a cheap Brake Caliper Wind Back Tool Kit - $13 for set - to turn and retract the piston - might make the job a bit easier. Some kits come with both clockwise and counter clockwise retractors.
i ditch those screws,they are worthless and a bad headache.
thanks for the video!
in any step, is there any adjustment needed on the parking brake mechanism?
No need because the mechanism is inside the caliper and there is no component to adjust. Hope that helps! thanks!
Merci pour la vidéo !!!
Do you know, if the Chevy Bolt have the same break system than the Cruze ?
Thanks!
Sa fait plaisir! The Bolt will probably be very similar to the cruze, maybe just different size bolts.
Best tutorial ever..Thank you.Do u need to bleed the break line for this??
No need to. Thanks!
I relly apreciate your awesome video! but i have a question: Do you know what is the lb ft or torque for tighten to reinstall the wheel?
I don't know the exact spec, but most wheels are torque between 75-90 ft-lbs.
The only thing I suggest would be to spray the rotor with brake clean first before installing. (Oh and torque specs as well)
Very helpful
Thanks for the video
If you don’t mind what kind of rotor did you get? Autozone?
the brand is Genius. You can find it on amazon or ebay, and other parts stores.
I use a 5in1 to push the calipers back
The rotor screw appears to be a Trox M6 x 20mm. Both Lowe's and HD may have the SS screw in stock, but with a hex (Allen key) head. Otherwise available on the web for less than $10 for 50, possibly 100 pcs.
Which way do I turn it to brake the bracket nuts on the front left side ???
counterclockwise always. Front left side, if you're using a ratchet or breaker bar, pull the handle towards the back of the car, hope that helps.
What tool are you using for automatic socket gun? 1:05 and 1:16 for example
Its a Milwaukee cordless ratchet. I have a link for it in the video description. They make cheaper ones too, just search cordless ratchet on amazon and you will find inexpensive ones.
Awesome video thx
Hey is any emergency break line that we have to deal with on a 2017
Do you mean Brake lines and brake hose? No you don't have to touch any brake line. Just release the handbrake before doing this job.
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No need to clean calliper pins?
if they move freely no need to
I pulled them and cleaned and greased them anyways. Watched both your front and rear videos, and got the job done with no troubles. Thanks a lot for the walk through!
Maasm substance or oil developed by Balvrcha
1:53 you do not have a faster way, especially if the brakes have any sort of resistance from heat and age. If you do brakes at all frequently, just go buy the tool from one of the many stores that sells them cheap.
Really sucks the stock brakes on these cars are trash. I'm at 26k and mine look just like this already. Got parts on order now.
Instead of a vice grip you can use a 17mm wrench
yes! I didn't have one at that time 😂
Rip t30 bit
Caliper is stuck on mine real bad
try using the piston retractor tool to give you more torque. If its still stuck, then most likely need a new caliper.
Audio is much too quiet
Compared to Toyota, Chevy design their cars in weird ways just to make DIY servicing them that much more of a hassle. Many of Holden’s later model cars in Australia are actually Chevrolet.
Straight off of rock auto lmao
its not but what's wrong with rockauto, i use them all the time 😂
⁰
Very helpful