Restoring Pipe Mouthpieces Without Power Tools?
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- Опубликовано: 7 май 2020
- We have all dealt with the same problem. How do you clean all that nasty oxidation off of your favorite pipe? I mean, oxidation is an inevitability with even the highest quality ebonite, but how can you get rid of it without a shop full of power tools? Moreover, how do you clean it up without ruining it? In this video I show you how to restore the glossy newness of your favorite mouthpiece with only MicroMesh sanding pads, some White Diamond polishing compound, and a microfiber cloth.
So, sit back, watch the demo, and give it a shot with your favorite pipe. Actually, why don’t you first try it out on your second favorite pipe-you know, for practice.
If you agree, disagree, or have your own technique to share please write in the comments below.
Purchase the Micro-Mesh Sanding Pads that I used in this video:
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White Diamond Polishing Compound:
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Visit my website here:
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And for a direct link to my new web store filled with shirts, espresso mugs, tools, and pipes, go here:
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Finally, I’ve added a new feature for those who are interested in learning directly from me about pipe making. Personalized video lessons are now available for the first time. A good way to get started or to refine your craft while we are all in self-isolation:
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Video edited using Lumafusion. Music and effects provided license free by Lumafusion. 
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Thank you for the compound tip. I just received the dirtiest batch of pipes I've ever seen. I didn't have sanding choices so I used Murphy's oil soap and extra fine steel wool on the mouth pieces. The wool did an amazing job on all the gunked on crud. I'm excited to see what the compound and my Dremel pad will do to finish them up.
That tip about using white diamond compound and a microfiber towel is awesome. I tried it out on stems I'd already used micro-mesh pads on and it just took it that one step finer without the risk of buffing too much on the buffing wheel, especially around nomenclature. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent presentation!!
Very helpful information!!
Keep up the sharing bro 💪
Thanks for such clear and well demonstrated techniques, I really enjoy your contribution to the Pipes Magazine podcast with Brian. All the best from Scotland 🏴. Garry
You are so welcome!
Man great videos! I appreciate that you take time to make each video golden, so keep it up! Must be a lot of time but you provide great value to the hobby! Thank you for your addition to our collective meditation and hobby!
Glad you like them!
Awesome video, thanks so much. This is my go to technique, but like some others have stated I usually use the wet sanding method. The only thing I could add to this is to make sure to clean between grits so you down carry over the low grits and scratch when you are polishing at higher grits. If you mentioned it and I missed it sorry. Also thanks for the great tip on the hand buffing with white diamond. Keep up the great work and looking forward to more great clips!!!
Thanks, works well. Took about 10 minutes per pipe and a little longer for heavily oxidized pipes. The White Diamond compound was very good to give a luster to the stems.
I have been using this method for a while. It’s very effective. I’ll get a budding wheel at some point because it’s so much faster but for now this does the trick.
This channel looks great! Subscribed
Welcome aboard!
Got your site link from Steve Fallon. I've used a buffer for years; used micromesh with water for years; but your technique works like a champ. Time to get rid of that buffer. Thanks.
Great!
Hey, Jeff. Another awesome video!
Hey, thanks!
Excellent video! Glad you showed a bit of every grit so we could follow the process and that you only polished half the stem for the awesome before and after! I use the same manual process but I use the polishing compound with a cotton dremel wheel. I'd love to hear your approach to deeply oxidized vulcanite stems. It seems like there are a number of approaches that people use prior to sanding and polishing.
TurboTinMan it depends on a lot of factors. But without tools, I’d probably hit it with some 400gr sandpaper to start, then the micro-mesh. With tools is much more efficient and can be much more precise.
Great video! Keep them coming.
More to come!
Excellent clip,man! Appreciate it very much 💓🙏👍🤘. I used type of restoration and polishing. It's working perfectly! Thank you so much ❤️!
Glad to hear it!
Awesome content! Thank You for a Great Tutorial! 🙏 I just dropped them in my wishlist 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Definitely a video worth keeping. I'll be going back to this one in the future.👍🏻👍🏻
Great to hear!
Really helpful, thanks Jeff.
Very welcome!
I just got a “new” estate pipe that has a stem that’s in pretty good shape but looks disgusting. I’ll definitely be using this method. Thanks so much for the info! Keep up the amazing work! 🔥🔥🔥
Thanks! Good luck!
Great job Jeff! I coughed up the money for a buffer early on once I realized oxidation was a never ending battle, but I know lots of people will appreciate this video.
PS - you should setup Amazon affiliate links in the description to items you recommend/use - you’ll get a small kick-back.
Good call on the affiliate links. I was pressed for time when posting this, but will add them. Thanks!
What kind of buffer did you buy?
This is so helpful. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video Jeff. We meant it. Hope someday I can met you and have a puff. Greetings from Jakarta, Indonesia.
I hope so. 😊
Great video, thanks brother.
No problem 👍
excellent video thank you.
thank you
Jeff, very well done. Looks like we have pretty much the same process, although for some stems that require that "extra" little bit, I will sometimes dampen the micro mesh pad with distilled water. No soaking wet, just damp. What would be interesting is discussing some of the different "qualities" of Ebonite / Vulcanite, as some tarnishes much quicker than others. The other difference in our process is I use blue diamond before the white diamond. I have found it assists in removing any ultra fine "scratches". Thanks again.
Thanks, Mike! I’ve never used the blue compound, but I think where I’ve seen it offered that it’s designed for plastics, right? And you’re right, a little spritz of water helps prevent the mesh from loading up. Looks like great minds think alike! 😆
@@jalanpipes Jeff, yes the blue does work "better" on acrylic materials, but not so bad on rubber. If you want a small piece to "play" with, let me know. I'd be happy to send a chunk.
Good job fella👍
Thanks 👍
Thanks for the great information.
You bet!
Very nice
Great video.
Thanks!
They make a blue compound 1 oz bar that is multipurpose even including plastics. It's a finer grit. But just an option as well. Great video
I found this method that works perfectly: acetic acid (60%) or vinegar (25%) - fill a small glass (100-200ml) about finger-wide, place the mouthpieces vertically with bite upwards (a wood with toothpicks on the bottom is helpful) - then in the microwave 2 minutes at 600W/780W. Be careful not to inhale the vapours. Then immediately place in the fresh air. Repeat if necessary. Works reliably and very gently at Ebonite/Vulcanite
Great video, thanks for making this one. Us average Joe's thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it
Yes it works, it works very well!
Good to hear!
Nice 👍 video thanks for the info 👍 Ragu.
ragu168 happy to help out.
I used toothpaste and a magic eraser to remove oxidation there is still some but it's not nearly as apparent. I still need to remove the rest of it and restore gloss. I'm so happy pipe restoration isn't yet a lost art and there are videos on it. thanks for the upload. I will definitely be looking into micromesh and that polishing compound.
Great! I think you'll find Micromesh works better than what you're using.
Really useful tips. Thanks so much, Alan! Do you have any tips for removing chatter and polishing acrylic mouthpieces?
You'd have to identify the source of the chatter as a starting point.
Tremendously helpful Jeff! How about a video on contrast staining a heavily rusticated finish such as Costello‘s Sea Rock Briar or Savinelli’s Capri Briar? Some of these estate finds are sound but could use a makeover.
Glad you found it helpful. Sadly, effectively refurbishing the finish on a rusticated pipe is beyond the capabilities of the average pipe smoker. It can't really be done well without a sandblaster--and even then it's challenging. But I'm planning a video on contrasting staining smooth pipes, though. ;-)
@@jalanpipes I'm looking forward to it!
Great video, I just picked up some estate pipes at auction and the stems need some TLC. What power tools do you use? Thanks
Great tips and process Jeff!🍭🐓👶
Glad it was helpful!
My stems are kind of gross and changing color. I’m gonna try this! Aloha Jeff!
Great! Aloha!
Is this just for vulcanized or is it safe for Acrylic too?
Please make a video on how to make a pipe start to finish with as few power tools as possible
I’d like to, but don’t see it happening anytime soon. I do these videos for the good of the community, and the time it would take to make a pipe with minimal tools in addition to the filming and editing may be prohibitive. But one never knows...
Hi...✌
Full sandpaper level???
@J. Allen Pipes Great video! This will definitely come I handy with some estates I recently purchased. How often would you recommend doing this?
As often as they need a touch up. for my own, this is right before they may be seen by anyone other than me. :)
@@jalanpipes Thanks!
Great video, thanks for all the great content! I was curious, do you do anything special to protect logos? I have a few comoy's and they all need restoration. Do you cover the logos with anything before using the pads or are they safe enough to use on a logo like that? Thanks!!!
-John
If I'm restoring a mouthpiece with a logo, I try to avoid that area. Polishing always requires using some kind of abrasive, and that will naturally wear a stamped logo.
@@jalanpipes thanks so much! Stay well.
Could you please do a video on how to select estate pipes and restore them without power tools?
Possibly, although I'm not a reseller of estate pipes so it's a little out of my wheelhouse
Hi Jeff, great video. I never knew micromesh pads could go that high in grit. I used max 2000grit sandpaper.
What is the brand of red roux and white daimond that is being used? Here in the Netherlands I can get Menzerna and I don't know if that is the correct one.
Manzerna is excellent. In the US, Manzerna or Matchless brands would be my recommendation.
@@jalanpipes Question: there are many white diamond polishing compounds - even "Matchless" branded - how can I get the right one for this hand polishing? Matchless has White Diamond for jewelry and precious metals - assuming that is the right one?
Rick the Piper good question. I have one that I recommend in the description. Or you can just buy and try multiple different ones. I have a bunch that I’ve tried out over the years until I found one I liked. Sadly it’s not available for sale in the US.
Thanks for the information! One question I have is, is there anyone making replacement pipe stems? I inherited some pipes from a relative many years ago however some of the nicer pipes are missing their stems.
There are plenty of repair people out there who specialize in replacing mouthpieces and can help you out. Tim West is a great guy and has decades of experience.
Hi Jeff, do you recommend using any wax or obsidian oil on the mouthpiece once it has been cleaned up to help keep oxidation from coming back as quickly?
I’ve never tried obsidian oil. Honestly, just wipe it down after you smoke it and store it out of the sunlight and you’ll largely mitigate oxidation. Some ebonite oxidize more rapidly than others, and this usually is a price/quality correlation. But not always.
Hello Sir, thank you for the video, it's very helpful. Please, where can I find the compound for the final step? Thanks for your help. Stay safe
see the video description for a purchasing link
@@jalanpipes Hello Sir, thank you very much
Please confirm the liquid and that yellow stuff. Alcohol and Wax?
Hey Jeff and guys, you can get all of the above on Amazon if you don't have a store that carries or will order them.
Jeff: ironically I'm getting into pipe restoration/making. Do you have any advice for removing stain without minimal sanding? And tips on contrast staining? Thank you for the great videos, keep up the splendid work and someday I'm buying one of your pipes.
Remove staining- alcohol! Simple and effective!
@@shvalbik thanks! I heard somewhere that acetone works as well if you just use a little at a time.
Yep...but acetone leave very strong smell for couple of weeks... Acetone good for remove shellac,but for just stain- alcohol enough
Depends on the solvent used on the stain originally. Most pipes are colored with alcohol-based dyes, so alcohol is a good place to start. But you’ll never remove it all without some sanding.
I’ll second the request for a video on contrast staining. 👍
I have a 60's Stanwell with a vulcanite stem. I used the micromesh sticks up to 12000 and I cannot get to deep black. It does have a very slippery finish but it's still quite cloudy and not shiny. I've seen several videos of people using micromesh on stems with really good results, but he only way I can get the stem to deep black and shine is if I get it wet. Does my stem need some kind of oil to penetrate the material and give the set shiny look?
Without seeing it in person, my guess would be that you didn’t remove all the oxidation with the most aggressive grit first. Once you are certain it is all gone, work your way up through the finer grits.
What a great video Jeff. Over 20 years of collecting and I never knew this technique existed. I’d be very nervous sanding near the shank extension for sure. I tend to overdue everything and would be devastated if I changed the shape or screwed it up. I have many high grade pipes that are so dull and need this to bring them back to a shine. Is it possible that you might show how to safely buff a bowl to a deep shine? I’ve tried paragon and all sorts of briar wipes and eh, they are ok at best but they don’t shine much by hand.
Glad you like it! Polishing the briar without a buffing wheel would be hard. I don't know that I have any tips for that without power tools. But I can give a tutorial on polishing for those who have a buffing setup. Good idea!
I have several pipe I kept down in my basement. the bowels are very discolored, and nasty looking. Can you give any ideas on how to clean polish them like new
Maybe I can cover restoring pipes in a future video
I’m assuming this method works for both vulcanite and acrylic stems, am I correct?
I don’t see why it wouldn’t.
Hey J.Alan, I was wondering about combining micromesh with buffing wheels? Is micromesh pointless if you also use wheels, or can they be used in combination with tripoli, white diamond, wax?
Good question. If you have a buffing setup (not a Dremel buffing wheel--those don't polish well in my experience), you'll definitely improve the finish by using it. And the whole process will be much faster.
@@jalanpipes thanks for the reply! What grit would you recommend sanding to before using tripoli?
@@bluerabidrabbit at least 400. 600 is better.
Porque no lo ponen traducido?
I have an estate meerschaum pipe that is clogged from usage by the previous owner. How should I clean and restore it?
For cleaning the airway see this: ruclips.net/video/d5Ely-0sc2M/видео.html
The chamber can be carefully scraped of build-up with a knife, and the mouthpiece can be cleaned with pipe cleaners and denatured alcohol
@@jalanpipes do you have a video on cleaning acrylic stems?
I used the micro mesh pads, but instead of the white diamond compound, I buff it out with a beeswax/mineral oil mixture. This is food safe; not sure about the polishing compound
Polishing compound residue can be removed with a mild solvent or soap and water when you're done.
Do you buy pipes at all?
Do I buy pipes?
@@jalanpipes yes, do you buy them to refurbish or do you custom make all these pipes?
@@lovemygrands11 Thank you for clarifying. I am a professional pipemaker. The pipes in my demo videos are either pipes that I'm making or ones from my own collection that I'm restoring or repairing
🙏👍
Lars, I love the video you made of Former. The work I've seen from you over the years has always been such an inspiration!
@@jalanpipes Thanks Jeff - I can only say the same about your pipes :-)
MicroMesh is made to work as a wet sandpaper
Great point! Thanks for sharing
So much of pipe making seems to be sandpaper and time. 😁
This is the secret. I didn't state it, but the unedited clip of the sanding took 30min. This is why I use polishing wheels! :)
Wet the micromesh with water
Absolutely! It's a wet/dry abrasive and wetting it works great for mouthpieces. :)