That tip about using white diamond compound and a microfiber towel is awesome. I tried it out on stems I'd already used micro-mesh pads on and it just took it that one step finer without the risk of buffing too much on the buffing wheel, especially around nomenclature. Thanks.
I used toothpaste and a magic eraser to remove oxidation there is still some but it's not nearly as apparent. I still need to remove the rest of it and restore gloss. I'm so happy pipe restoration isn't yet a lost art and there are videos on it. thanks for the upload. I will definitely be looking into micromesh and that polishing compound.
Got your site link from Steve Fallon. I've used a buffer for years; used micromesh with water for years; but your technique works like a champ. Time to get rid of that buffer. Thanks.
Thanks, works well. Took about 10 minutes per pipe and a little longer for heavily oxidized pipes. The White Diamond compound was very good to give a luster to the stems.
Awesome video, thanks so much. This is my go to technique, but like some others have stated I usually use the wet sanding method. The only thing I could add to this is to make sure to clean between grits so you down carry over the low grits and scratch when you are polishing at higher grits. If you mentioned it and I missed it sorry. Also thanks for the great tip on the hand buffing with white diamond. Keep up the great work and looking forward to more great clips!!!
Jeff, very well done. Looks like we have pretty much the same process, although for some stems that require that "extra" little bit, I will sometimes dampen the micro mesh pad with distilled water. No soaking wet, just damp. What would be interesting is discussing some of the different "qualities" of Ebonite / Vulcanite, as some tarnishes much quicker than others. The other difference in our process is I use blue diamond before the white diamond. I have found it assists in removing any ultra fine "scratches". Thanks again.
Thanks, Mike! I’ve never used the blue compound, but I think where I’ve seen it offered that it’s designed for plastics, right? And you’re right, a little spritz of water helps prevent the mesh from loading up. Looks like great minds think alike! 😆
@@jalanpipes Jeff, yes the blue does work "better" on acrylic materials, but not so bad on rubber. If you want a small piece to "play" with, let me know. I'd be happy to send a chunk.
Man great videos! I appreciate that you take time to make each video golden, so keep it up! Must be a lot of time but you provide great value to the hobby! Thank you for your addition to our collective meditation and hobby!
I just got a “new” estate pipe that has a stem that’s in pretty good shape but looks disgusting. I’ll definitely be using this method. Thanks so much for the info! Keep up the amazing work! 🔥🔥🔥
Great job Jeff! I coughed up the money for a buffer early on once I realized oxidation was a never ending battle, but I know lots of people will appreciate this video. PS - you should setup Amazon affiliate links in the description to items you recommend/use - you’ll get a small kick-back.
Thank you for the compound tip. I just received the dirtiest batch of pipes I've ever seen. I didn't have sanding choices so I used Murphy's oil soap and extra fine steel wool on the mouth pieces. The wool did an amazing job on all the gunked on crud. I'm excited to see what the compound and my Dremel pad will do to finish them up.
Excellent video! Glad you showed a bit of every grit so we could follow the process and that you only polished half the stem for the awesome before and after! I use the same manual process but I use the polishing compound with a cotton dremel wheel. I'd love to hear your approach to deeply oxidized vulcanite stems. It seems like there are a number of approaches that people use prior to sanding and polishing.
TurboTinMan it depends on a lot of factors. But without tools, I’d probably hit it with some 400gr sandpaper to start, then the micro-mesh. With tools is much more efficient and can be much more precise.
Thanks for such clear and well demonstrated techniques, I really enjoy your contribution to the Pipes Magazine podcast with Brian. All the best from Scotland 🏴. Garry
I found this method that works perfectly: acetic acid (60%) or vinegar (25%) - fill a small glass (100-200ml) about finger-wide, place the mouthpieces vertically with bite upwards (a wood with toothpicks on the bottom is helpful) - then in the microwave 2 minutes at 600W/780W. Be careful not to inhale the vapours. Then immediately place in the fresh air. Repeat if necessary. Works reliably and very gently at Ebonite/Vulcanite
Hi Jeff, great video. I never knew micromesh pads could go that high in grit. I used max 2000grit sandpaper. What is the brand of red roux and white daimond that is being used? Here in the Netherlands I can get Menzerna and I don't know if that is the correct one.
@@jalanpipes Question: there are many white diamond polishing compounds - even "Matchless" branded - how can I get the right one for this hand polishing? Matchless has White Diamond for jewelry and precious metals - assuming that is the right one?
Rick the Piper good question. I have one that I recommend in the description. Or you can just buy and try multiple different ones. I have a bunch that I’ve tried out over the years until I found one I liked. Sadly it’s not available for sale in the US.
Hey Jeff and guys, you can get all of the above on Amazon if you don't have a store that carries or will order them. Jeff: ironically I'm getting into pipe restoration/making. Do you have any advice for removing stain without minimal sanding? And tips on contrast staining? Thank you for the great videos, keep up the splendid work and someday I'm buying one of your pipes.
Depends on the solvent used on the stain originally. Most pipes are colored with alcohol-based dyes, so alcohol is a good place to start. But you’ll never remove it all without some sanding.
Tremendously helpful Jeff! How about a video on contrast staining a heavily rusticated finish such as Costello‘s Sea Rock Briar or Savinelli’s Capri Briar? Some of these estate finds are sound but could use a makeover.
Glad you found it helpful. Sadly, effectively refurbishing the finish on a rusticated pipe is beyond the capabilities of the average pipe smoker. It can't really be done well without a sandblaster--and even then it's challenging. But I'm planning a video on contrasting staining smooth pipes, though. ;-)
Thanks for the information! One question I have is, is there anyone making replacement pipe stems? I inherited some pipes from a relative many years ago however some of the nicer pipes are missing their stems.
There are plenty of repair people out there who specialize in replacing mouthpieces and can help you out. Tim West is a great guy and has decades of experience.
I have a 60's Stanwell with a vulcanite stem. I used the micromesh sticks up to 12000 and I cannot get to deep black. It does have a very slippery finish but it's still quite cloudy and not shiny. I've seen several videos of people using micromesh on stems with really good results, but he only way I can get the stem to deep black and shine is if I get it wet. Does my stem need some kind of oil to penetrate the material and give the set shiny look?
Without seeing it in person, my guess would be that you didn’t remove all the oxidation with the most aggressive grit first. Once you are certain it is all gone, work your way up through the finer grits.
Hi Jeff, do you recommend using any wax or obsidian oil on the mouthpiece once it has been cleaned up to help keep oxidation from coming back as quickly?
I’ve never tried obsidian oil. Honestly, just wipe it down after you smoke it and store it out of the sunlight and you’ll largely mitigate oxidation. Some ebonite oxidize more rapidly than others, and this usually is a price/quality correlation. But not always.
I have several pipe I kept down in my basement. the bowels are very discolored, and nasty looking. Can you give any ideas on how to clean polish them like new
I’d like to, but don’t see it happening anytime soon. I do these videos for the good of the community, and the time it would take to make a pipe with minimal tools in addition to the filming and editing may be prohibitive. But one never knows...
For cleaning the airway see this: ruclips.net/video/d5Ely-0sc2M/видео.html The chamber can be carefully scraped of build-up with a knife, and the mouthpiece can be cleaned with pipe cleaners and denatured alcohol
Great video, thanks for all the great content! I was curious, do you do anything special to protect logos? I have a few comoy's and they all need restoration. Do you cover the logos with anything before using the pads or are they safe enough to use on a logo like that? Thanks!!! -John
If I'm restoring a mouthpiece with a logo, I try to avoid that area. Polishing always requires using some kind of abrasive, and that will naturally wear a stamped logo.
What a great video Jeff. Over 20 years of collecting and I never knew this technique existed. I’d be very nervous sanding near the shank extension for sure. I tend to overdue everything and would be devastated if I changed the shape or screwed it up. I have many high grade pipes that are so dull and need this to bring them back to a shine. Is it possible that you might show how to safely buff a bowl to a deep shine? I’ve tried paragon and all sorts of briar wipes and eh, they are ok at best but they don’t shine much by hand.
Glad you like it! Polishing the briar without a buffing wheel would be hard. I don't know that I have any tips for that without power tools. But I can give a tutorial on polishing for those who have a buffing setup. Good idea!
Hey J.Alan, I was wondering about combining micromesh with buffing wheels? Is micromesh pointless if you also use wheels, or can they be used in combination with tripoli, white diamond, wax?
Good question. If you have a buffing setup (not a Dremel buffing wheel--those don't polish well in my experience), you'll definitely improve the finish by using it. And the whole process will be much faster.
I used the micro mesh pads, but instead of the white diamond compound, I buff it out with a beeswax/mineral oil mixture. This is food safe; not sure about the polishing compound
@@lovemygrands11 Thank you for clarifying. I am a professional pipemaker. The pipes in my demo videos are either pipes that I'm making or ones from my own collection that I'm restoring or repairing
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
That tip about using white diamond compound and a microfiber towel is awesome. I tried it out on stems I'd already used micro-mesh pads on and it just took it that one step finer without the risk of buffing too much on the buffing wheel, especially around nomenclature. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
I used toothpaste and a magic eraser to remove oxidation there is still some but it's not nearly as apparent. I still need to remove the rest of it and restore gloss. I'm so happy pipe restoration isn't yet a lost art and there are videos on it. thanks for the upload. I will definitely be looking into micromesh and that polishing compound.
Great! I think you'll find Micromesh works better than what you're using.
Got your site link from Steve Fallon. I've used a buffer for years; used micromesh with water for years; but your technique works like a champ. Time to get rid of that buffer. Thanks.
Great!
Thanks, works well. Took about 10 minutes per pipe and a little longer for heavily oxidized pipes. The White Diamond compound was very good to give a luster to the stems.
glad it was helpful to you.
Awesome video, thanks so much. This is my go to technique, but like some others have stated I usually use the wet sanding method. The only thing I could add to this is to make sure to clean between grits so you down carry over the low grits and scratch when you are polishing at higher grits. If you mentioned it and I missed it sorry. Also thanks for the great tip on the hand buffing with white diamond. Keep up the great work and looking forward to more great clips!!!
Jeff, very well done. Looks like we have pretty much the same process, although for some stems that require that "extra" little bit, I will sometimes dampen the micro mesh pad with distilled water. No soaking wet, just damp. What would be interesting is discussing some of the different "qualities" of Ebonite / Vulcanite, as some tarnishes much quicker than others. The other difference in our process is I use blue diamond before the white diamond. I have found it assists in removing any ultra fine "scratches". Thanks again.
Thanks, Mike! I’ve never used the blue compound, but I think where I’ve seen it offered that it’s designed for plastics, right? And you’re right, a little spritz of water helps prevent the mesh from loading up. Looks like great minds think alike! 😆
@@jalanpipes Jeff, yes the blue does work "better" on acrylic materials, but not so bad on rubber. If you want a small piece to "play" with, let me know. I'd be happy to send a chunk.
Man great videos! I appreciate that you take time to make each video golden, so keep it up! Must be a lot of time but you provide great value to the hobby! Thank you for your addition to our collective meditation and hobby!
Glad you like them!
I just got a “new” estate pipe that has a stem that’s in pretty good shape but looks disgusting. I’ll definitely be using this method. Thanks so much for the info! Keep up the amazing work! 🔥🔥🔥
Thanks! Good luck!
Great job Jeff! I coughed up the money for a buffer early on once I realized oxidation was a never ending battle, but I know lots of people will appreciate this video.
PS - you should setup Amazon affiliate links in the description to items you recommend/use - you’ll get a small kick-back.
Good call on the affiliate links. I was pressed for time when posting this, but will add them. Thanks!
What kind of buffer did you buy?
Thank you for the compound tip. I just received the dirtiest batch of pipes I've ever seen. I didn't have sanding choices so I used Murphy's oil soap and extra fine steel wool on the mouth pieces. The wool did an amazing job on all the gunked on crud. I'm excited to see what the compound and my Dremel pad will do to finish them up.
glad it was helpful to you.
Excellent video! Glad you showed a bit of every grit so we could follow the process and that you only polished half the stem for the awesome before and after! I use the same manual process but I use the polishing compound with a cotton dremel wheel. I'd love to hear your approach to deeply oxidized vulcanite stems. It seems like there are a number of approaches that people use prior to sanding and polishing.
TurboTinMan it depends on a lot of factors. But without tools, I’d probably hit it with some 400gr sandpaper to start, then the micro-mesh. With tools is much more efficient and can be much more precise.
Awesome video Jeff. We meant it. Hope someday I can met you and have a puff. Greetings from Jakarta, Indonesia.
I hope so. 😊
thank you for the tips and tricks, sir!
Thanks for such clear and well demonstrated techniques, I really enjoy your contribution to the Pipes Magazine podcast with Brian. All the best from Scotland 🏴. Garry
You are so welcome!
I found this method that works perfectly: acetic acid (60%) or vinegar (25%) - fill a small glass (100-200ml) about finger-wide, place the mouthpieces vertically with bite upwards (a wood with toothpicks on the bottom is helpful) - then in the microwave 2 minutes at 600W/780W. Be careful not to inhale the vapours. Then immediately place in the fresh air. Repeat if necessary. Works reliably and very gently at Ebonite/Vulcanite
They make a blue compound 1 oz bar that is multipurpose even including plastics. It's a finer grit. But just an option as well. Great video
I have it, but don't work with acrylic often.
Hi Jeff, great video. I never knew micromesh pads could go that high in grit. I used max 2000grit sandpaper.
What is the brand of red roux and white daimond that is being used? Here in the Netherlands I can get Menzerna and I don't know if that is the correct one.
Manzerna is excellent. In the US, Manzerna or Matchless brands would be my recommendation.
@@jalanpipes Question: there are many white diamond polishing compounds - even "Matchless" branded - how can I get the right one for this hand polishing? Matchless has White Diamond for jewelry and precious metals - assuming that is the right one?
Rick the Piper good question. I have one that I recommend in the description. Or you can just buy and try multiple different ones. I have a bunch that I’ve tried out over the years until I found one I liked. Sadly it’s not available for sale in the US.
My stems are kind of gross and changing color. I’m gonna try this! Aloha Jeff!
Great! Aloha!
Excellent presentation!!
Very helpful information!!
Keep up the sharing bro 💪
Will do. :)
This channel looks great! Subscribed
Welcome aboard!
Excellent clip,man! Appreciate it very much 💓🙏👍🤘. I used type of restoration and polishing. It's working perfectly! Thank you so much ❤️!
Glad to hear it!
Definitely a video worth keeping. I'll be going back to this one in the future.👍🏻👍🏻
Great to hear!
Hey Jeff and guys, you can get all of the above on Amazon if you don't have a store that carries or will order them.
Jeff: ironically I'm getting into pipe restoration/making. Do you have any advice for removing stain without minimal sanding? And tips on contrast staining? Thank you for the great videos, keep up the splendid work and someday I'm buying one of your pipes.
Remove staining- alcohol! Simple and effective!
@@shvalbik thanks! I heard somewhere that acetone works as well if you just use a little at a time.
Yep...but acetone leave very strong smell for couple of weeks... Acetone good for remove shellac,but for just stain- alcohol enough
Depends on the solvent used on the stain originally. Most pipes are colored with alcohol-based dyes, so alcohol is a good place to start. But you’ll never remove it all without some sanding.
I’ll second the request for a video on contrast staining. 👍
Really helpful, thanks Jeff.
Very welcome!
Really useful tips. Thanks so much, Alan! Do you have any tips for removing chatter and polishing acrylic mouthpieces?
You'd have to identify the source of the chatter as a starting point.
Great video! Keep them coming.
More to come!
This is so helpful. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Hi...✌
Full sandpaper level???
Hey, Jeff. Another awesome video!
Hey, thanks!
Awesome content! Thank You for a Great Tutorial! 🙏 I just dropped them in my wishlist 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Hello Sir, thank you for the video, it's very helpful. Please, where can I find the compound for the final step? Thanks for your help. Stay safe
see the video description for a purchasing link
@@jalanpipes Hello Sir, thank you very much
Tremendously helpful Jeff! How about a video on contrast staining a heavily rusticated finish such as Costello‘s Sea Rock Briar or Savinelli’s Capri Briar? Some of these estate finds are sound but could use a makeover.
Glad you found it helpful. Sadly, effectively refurbishing the finish on a rusticated pipe is beyond the capabilities of the average pipe smoker. It can't really be done well without a sandblaster--and even then it's challenging. But I'm planning a video on contrasting staining smooth pipes, though. ;-)
@@jalanpipes I'm looking forward to it!
Great video, thanks for making this one. Us average Joe's thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it
Nice 👍 video thanks for the info 👍 Ragu.
ragu168 happy to help out.
excellent video thank you.
thank you
Thanks for the information! One question I have is, is there anyone making replacement pipe stems? I inherited some pipes from a relative many years ago however some of the nicer pipes are missing their stems.
There are plenty of repair people out there who specialize in replacing mouthpieces and can help you out. Tim West is a great guy and has decades of experience.
I’m assuming this method works for both vulcanite and acrylic stems, am I correct?
I don’t see why it wouldn’t.
Great video.
Thanks!
I have a 60's Stanwell with a vulcanite stem. I used the micromesh sticks up to 12000 and I cannot get to deep black. It does have a very slippery finish but it's still quite cloudy and not shiny. I've seen several videos of people using micromesh on stems with really good results, but he only way I can get the stem to deep black and shine is if I get it wet. Does my stem need some kind of oil to penetrate the material and give the set shiny look?
Without seeing it in person, my guess would be that you didn’t remove all the oxidation with the most aggressive grit first. Once you are certain it is all gone, work your way up through the finer grits.
Yes it works, it works very well!
Good to hear!
Hi Jeff, do you recommend using any wax or obsidian oil on the mouthpiece once it has been cleaned up to help keep oxidation from coming back as quickly?
I’ve never tried obsidian oil. Honestly, just wipe it down after you smoke it and store it out of the sunlight and you’ll largely mitigate oxidation. Some ebonite oxidize more rapidly than others, and this usually is a price/quality correlation. But not always.
Great video, I just picked up some estate pipes at auction and the stems need some TLC. What power tools do you use? Thanks
Thanks for the great information.
You bet!
@J. Allen Pipes Great video! This will definitely come I handy with some estates I recently purchased. How often would you recommend doing this?
As often as they need a touch up. for my own, this is right before they may be seen by anyone other than me. :)
@@jalanpipes Thanks!
I have several pipe I kept down in my basement. the bowels are very discolored, and nasty looking. Can you give any ideas on how to clean polish them like new
Maybe I can cover restoring pipes in a future video
Is this just for vulcanized or is it safe for Acrylic too?
it'll work even faster on acrylic
Good job fella👍
Thanks 👍
Could you please do a video on how to select estate pipes and restore them without power tools?
Possibly, although I'm not a reseller of estate pipes so it's a little out of my wheelhouse
Please make a video on how to make a pipe start to finish with as few power tools as possible
I’d like to, but don’t see it happening anytime soon. I do these videos for the good of the community, and the time it would take to make a pipe with minimal tools in addition to the filming and editing may be prohibitive. But one never knows...
Very nice
I have an estate meerschaum pipe that is clogged from usage by the previous owner. How should I clean and restore it?
For cleaning the airway see this: ruclips.net/video/d5Ely-0sc2M/видео.html
The chamber can be carefully scraped of build-up with a knife, and the mouthpiece can be cleaned with pipe cleaners and denatured alcohol
@@jalanpipes do you have a video on cleaning acrylic stems?
Great video, thanks for all the great content! I was curious, do you do anything special to protect logos? I have a few comoy's and they all need restoration. Do you cover the logos with anything before using the pads or are they safe enough to use on a logo like that? Thanks!!!
-John
If I'm restoring a mouthpiece with a logo, I try to avoid that area. Polishing always requires using some kind of abrasive, and that will naturally wear a stamped logo.
@@jalanpipes thanks so much! Stay well.
Great tips and process Jeff!🍭🐓👶
Glad it was helpful!
What a great video Jeff. Over 20 years of collecting and I never knew this technique existed. I’d be very nervous sanding near the shank extension for sure. I tend to overdue everything and would be devastated if I changed the shape or screwed it up. I have many high grade pipes that are so dull and need this to bring them back to a shine. Is it possible that you might show how to safely buff a bowl to a deep shine? I’ve tried paragon and all sorts of briar wipes and eh, they are ok at best but they don’t shine much by hand.
Glad you like it! Polishing the briar without a buffing wheel would be hard. I don't know that I have any tips for that without power tools. But I can give a tutorial on polishing for those who have a buffing setup. Good idea!
Please confirm the liquid and that yellow stuff. Alcohol and Wax?
Hey J.Alan, I was wondering about combining micromesh with buffing wheels? Is micromesh pointless if you also use wheels, or can they be used in combination with tripoli, white diamond, wax?
Good question. If you have a buffing setup (not a Dremel buffing wheel--those don't polish well in my experience), you'll definitely improve the finish by using it. And the whole process will be much faster.
@@jalanpipes thanks for the reply! What grit would you recommend sanding to before using tripoli?
@@bluerabidrabbit at least 400. 600 is better.
I used the micro mesh pads, but instead of the white diamond compound, I buff it out with a beeswax/mineral oil mixture. This is food safe; not sure about the polishing compound
Polishing compound residue can be removed with a mild solvent or soap and water when you're done.
Porque no lo ponen traducido?
Do you buy pipes at all?
Do I buy pipes?
@@jalanpipes yes, do you buy them to refurbish or do you custom make all these pipes?
@@lovemygrands11 Thank you for clarifying. I am a professional pipemaker. The pipes in my demo videos are either pipes that I'm making or ones from my own collection that I'm restoring or repairing
MicroMesh is made to work as a wet sandpaper
Great point! Thanks for sharing
So much of pipe making seems to be sandpaper and time. 😁
This is the secret. I didn't state it, but the unedited clip of the sanding took 30min. This is why I use polishing wheels! :)
🙏👍
Lars, I love the video you made of Former. The work I've seen from you over the years has always been such an inspiration!
@@jalanpipes Thanks Jeff - I can only say the same about your pipes :-)
Wet the micromesh with water
Absolutely! It's a wet/dry abrasive and wetting it works great for mouthpieces. :)
top
Great video, thanks brother.
No problem 👍